SUMMER
No. 35
SUMMER DELIGHTS fresh & healthy
KACHEN
plan K
SUMMER 2023
E NG LI S H E DI TI O N
vins-cremants.lu
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THE PERFECT DEAL TO YOUR MEAL
LUXEMBOURG’S FOOD & LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
to be consumed with moderation
ONAL SEASCIPES RE
No. 35
13 € GERMANY, FRANCE, BELGIUM, NETHERLANDS, SPAIN, ITALY: 13.90 €
LËTZEBUERG
FOOD
LIFESTYLE
KIERMESZOPP CARLO SAUBER: PORETTENZAPP RESTAURANT PORTRAIT: OSÉ
QUICK & EASY BOWLS FEATURE: RAW FOOD APÉRO, PICNIC & BBQ
TRENDS: BABY SHOWER ALCOHOL-FREE DRINKS UPCYCLE YOUR FOOD
EUROPE: 14.50 € WORLD: 18.40 €
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hi, Big Bad Wolf wrote a review (5 may.)
2023 COLOUR OF THE YEAR
In the deep dark woods • 71 contributions • 14 helpful votes
Such a fine dish! Much more tender than Red Riding Hood’s Grandma. Plus
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Discover more than 30 colors at www.kitchenaid.lu
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EDITORIAL
All the world’s a stage, and having come through the other end of a global health crisis, we – the actors – have had further crisis upon crisis to contend with for quite some time now. The fact that the bad guys always seem to land the leading roles can certainly get you down. It’s therefore up to us to take the reins and write the script of – at the very least – our own lives, with courage, confidence and conviction, to give ourselves and our loved ones the best possible storyline. Despite all the current challenges playing out on the world stage, we must aim to focus on the positives, finding things to be grateful for and spending time with family and friends.
our vineyards, there’s so much to taste and discover. And, as always, we’ll be showing you that you can do this in a responsible way as you’ll see in our section on sustainability.
For this issue of KACHEN, we’ve put together for you a beautiful collection of recipes that celebrate summer. From top tips for an alfresco aperitif to delicious, colourful dishes, there’s something for everyone. Whether you’re hosting a garden party or planning a picnic in the great outdoors, you’ll find everything you need to make this a summer to remember.
So, stay positive and make the most of all that life has to offer! Sunny days, outdoor activities, ice cream, afterwork drinks in the open air and good food are all guaranteed to play a major role in your happy summer storyline! We hope you have lots of fun exploring and enjoying the many treasures our region has to offer!
But summer in Luxembourg is not just about food and drink... The (hopefully) good weather will also undoubtedly tempt you into spending more time outdoors. Whether you decide to take in some nature on one of the many hiking trails through our forests, explore the countryside by bike or spend hot days swimming in a lake or river, we’ve got some great suggestions for you!
Bibi Wintersdorf and the entire KACHEN team
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For us at KACHEN, summertime is a time of indulgence. We reflect on our culinary roots and celebrate the rich variety of food that our region has to offer. From fresh vegetables from our producers to fine wines from
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SUMMARY
28 80 44 128 36 34
4
106 112 93 KACHEN No.35 | SUMMER 23
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RESTAURANT & SHOP NEWS — 08 NEWS — 10
FOOD
M AG A ZINE
SUMMARY
PRODUCTS WE LOVE — 13
Summer party
FEATURE
—
The raw truth 64 Recipes by Bertrand Duchamps
BOOKS — 14
— 68
SUMMER PICNIC — 74
COVER STORY — 16
SEASONAL VEGETABLE — 84
Super Bowl
Peppers & chillis
FOODOSCOPE — 174
SEASONAL FRUIT — 92
RECIPE DIRECTORY — 176
LË T ZE BUE RG
SEASONAL MENU — 54
Blackberries
IMPRINT — 177
BAKING CLASSICS — 100
TYPICALLY LUXEMBOURGISH — 26
STEP-BY-STEP — 104
GRANNY’S RECIPE — 28
TRAVELLING TASTE BUDS — 106
ONCE UPON A TIME... — 30
KNOWLEDGE BITES
Strawberry sorbet by Alessandro Vitali
Kiermeszopp
Gougères
Summer pasta with salsiccia
Peruvian ceviche
Crème brûlée by René Mathieu
From exotic to native Local exotics 110
—
MY LUXEMBOURG — 34
Judd mat Gaardebounen by Julien Lucas
K IDS
LUXEMBOURGISH CLASSICS — 32
Porettenzapp by Carlo Sauber
EXPAT RECIPE — 36
— 108
DO IT YOURSELF — 112 Refreshing ideas
KACHEN MAT KANNER — 115 Rainbow vegetable tart
Piliç Topkapi by Serkan Yardımcı
DR INK S
RESTAURANT PORTRAIT — 38 Osé – A gourmet dining experience
CAFÉ PORTRAIT — 40 Kesselbetrib
VINTNER FAMILY — 118 Molling Wines
INTERVIEW — 120 Château Les Crostes
PORTRAIT OF A CHEF — 42
BAR SNAPSHOT — 124
CHEF’S MASTER CLASS — 44
KNOWLEDGE BITES — 126
LOCAL & REGIONAL — 48
RECIPES — 127
MEET THE MAKERS — 50
SHAKE IT BABY! — 128
Carole Lesquer
BAC
Lemon melissa tart
A hundred per cent 0.0%
Sheep’s milk ice cream, fried cheese & co.
Infiiorata – Florist & artist
MADE IN LUXEMBOURG — 52
5 fresh drinks
FEATURE — 130 A matter of taste
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Simon Le Financier
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COVER STORY
SUPE R BOWL ! Spending hours on end in the kitchen is just not an option in the summer when you could be outside enjoying a leisurely aperitif with friends and soaking up the final rays of sun before dinner. But that doesn’t mean the food has to be mediocre! At KACHEN, we have the perfect solution: bowls of goodness that combine protein, carbs, fruit and vegetables. We love how easy they are to whip up, meaning you can make the most of these balmy summer evenings. What’s more, they’re tasty and bursting with colour so you’ll definitely wow your guests! Oh my bowl!
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COVER STORY
T E R I YA K I SA LMON B OWL Serves 2
10 minutes
For the homemade teriyaki sauce
› 3 tbsp soy sauce › 3.5 tbsp sugar (or honey)
› 2.5 tbsp water › 1 small clove of garlic, peeled and minced
› 1 tsp grated ginger or ginger powder
› 1 tbsp rice vinegar (or lemon juice)
30 minutes
For the salmon bowl
› › › › ›
150 g Thai jasmine rice 2 tsp salt 2 tbsp sunflower oil 150 g salmon fillet 100 g pre-cooked edamame › 100 g fresh baby spinach › 2 small carrots › 2 tbsp fresh chives
The sauce 1 Place all the ingredients in a small saucepan and
bring to a simmer for 5–10 minutes. Allow to cool.
*
RECIPES & PHOTOS
of water. Season with salt and bring to a simmer on a very low heat. 2 Cook for about 20–25 minutes. If all the water is absorbed during cooking, add a couple of tablespoons of water. There should be no visible water at the surface when it’s done.* 3 In a frying pan, heat the oil on a high heat. 4 Season the salmon fillets with 1 tsp of salt and add them to the pan for 2 minutes. Then cook the other side for another 2 minutes. This way, it will be “mi-cuit”. Fry for another 2 minutes if you want it cooked all the way through. 5 In a bowl, spoon a row of rice on one side, then add the edamame, fresh spinach and sliced carrots. Put the salmon fillet on top and serve with the teriyaki sauce and fresh chives.
Paula Soryano
The salmon bowl 1 Rinse the rice (optional) and add about 250 ml
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This method allows us to control the amount of water and prevent the rice from getting mushy.
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T Y P I C A L LY LU X E M B O U R G I S H
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T Y P I C A L LY LU X E M B O U R G I S H
K IE R ME S ZOPP Serves 6 10 minutes 2 hours
› › › › › › › › › › › › › › ›
3 l water 750 g beef with marrow bones 1 leek 1 potato 2 carrots ½ kohlrabi 1 celery branch 1 onion 1 pinch black pepper 1 tsp salt 1 bay leaf 1–2 beef stock cubes 7 eggs 2 tbsp tapioca 1 bunch of parsley
RECIPE & PHOTO
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vegetables, cut them into large pieces and add them to the pot. Add the pepper, salt, bay leaf and stock cubes, then cook for 90–120 minutes on a low heat. Skim off the green foam. 2 In the meantime, boil the eggs for 10 minutes, peel them and mash well with a fork. 3 When the soup has finished cooking, remove the meat and vegetables with a slotted spoon. Add the tapioca to the beef stock and bring to a boil for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally with a whisk so that the tapioca does not clump. 4 Add the egg and season to taste. 5 Optional: dice or finely chop the meat, carrots and parsley and add to the soup.
Anne Lommel
1 Bring the water to the boil and add the beef. Peel the
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RECIPE PHOTOS
S e r k a n Ya r d ı m c ı Marc Dostert
E X PAT R ECI PE
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E X PAT R ECI PE
If you had to describe Chef Serkan Yardımcı in three words, they would be: dedicated, ambitious and very kind. His career started early – at the tender age of 16. By 18, he was cooking in a starred restaurant in Türkiye. He has been head chef at the Turkish Embassy in Luxembourg for 13 years now, and is personally responsible for ensuring the ambassador enjoys healthy, balanced meals. Prior to this post, he held similar positions in Algeria, Iraq and Italy. He has grown fond of Luxembourg – “I’m staying here!” – and continues to follow his life-long dream to serve his country, despite countless offers from prestigious restaurants. From his repertoire of dishes, he has decided to share his Piliç Topkapı with KACHEN. And it just so happens that it’s one of the ambassador’s favourites!
PİLİÇ TOPK A PI Serves 4
25 minutes
For the chicken
› › › › ›
› › › ›
2–3 tbsp of pine nuts Olive oil 1 onion 1 glass of rice (200 ml glass) › ½ glass of currants – soaked in water for 10 minutes › ½ glass of raisins – soaked in water for 10 minutes
35 minutes
1 pinch of mixed spice 1 pinch of cinnamon 1 pinch of mahaleb 1 pinch of granulated sugar 1 glass of water (200 ml glass) › Chopped fresh mint, fresh dill & freh parsley (about 50 g each) › 4 chicken thighs, skin on › Salt
The chicken 1 Toast the pine nuts in a pan for a few
› › › › › ›
Remaining chicken bones 1 l of water Salt & black pepper 1 medium-sized onion 1 tbsp butter 1 tbsp flour
6 Wrap the chicken with the rice filling and roll. 7 Wrap each piece of chicken in baking paper
and then in aluminium foil. Place them on an ovenproof tray and bake for about 35 minutes.
The sauce 1 Boil the chicken bones in 1 litre of water.
Add the salt, black pepper and chopped onion, and cook until half of the water has evaporated. 2 Drain the broth. In a separate pan, melt the butter with the flour, then add it to the chicken broth and cook the sauce until it is creamy. 3 Cut the baked chicken rolls in half and serve with the sauce.
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minutes and set aside. Add the olive oil and chopped onion into the same pan and fry until the onion turns brown. 2 Add the rice and a pinch of salt, and continue toasting. Then add the currants, raisins, (no need to squeeze out the excess water), pine nuts, all spices, sugar and allow them to release their flavours. 3 Add warm water and cook over a medium heat until all the water is absorbed. Then add the fresh herbs. 4 Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan. 5 Remove the bones from the chicken thighs (leaving the skin on) and beat them a little until flattened.
For the sauce
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SEASONAL MENU
SWE E T P OTATO
C R IS PS
Serves 4
1 Preheat the oven to 140°C/ 120°C fan. Line a baking
tray with parchment paper.
10 minutes
2 Peel the sweet potatoes and then cut them into very
20 minutes
thin slices with a mandolin.
3 Add the sweet potato slices to a bowl, and toss them
with a drizzle of olive oil.
layer, each slice touching the next.
5 Bake in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes until they look
all wrinkled up and are well dehydrated.
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› 2 medium sweet potatoes › 1 tbsp olive oil › 1 tsp salt
4 Arrange the slices on the baking tray in a single
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BOWL 57 Plancha BBQ & accessories provided by Höfats. Discover more on hofats.com
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SEASONAL MENU
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SUMME R PIC NIC G R E E N S , S T R AW B E R RY & W HOL E W H E AT S A L A D Serves 2 15 minutes 10 minutes
› › › › › › › › › › ›
120 g whole wheat (pre-cooked) 100 g strawberries 1 small cucumber 100 g green peas 1 spring onion 50 g fresh spinach leaves A handful of mint leaves Salt & pepper 2 tbsp olive oil ½ lemon, juice Grilled crushed hazelnuts
1 For the wheat: if pre-cooked,
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cook for about 10 minutes in 2.5 times its volume in salted water. If raw, cooking will take about 45–60 minutes. Remove from the heat, drain any excess water, and fluff gently with a fork. Leave to cool. 2 Cut the strawberries in half. Slice the cucumber and blanch the fresh green peas for about 5 minutes in salted water. Thinly slice the spring onion. 3 Put everything in a bowl and mix with the spinach leaves, mint leaves, salt, pepper, olive oil and the juice of half a lemon. Serve with the crushed hazelnuts.
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SE A SONA L V EGE TA B L E
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SE A SONA L V EGE TA B L E
R E D PE PPE R C HIPOT LE TACOS WIT H G R E E N SA L SA Serves 4
20 minutes
For the salsa
› › › › › › › › ›
4 cloves of garlic 30 g fresh coriander 60 ml olive oil 1 green chilli pepper (optional)) 1 green pepper 125 g sweetcorn ½ lime ( juice) Salt Pepper
The salsa 1 For the green salsa, blitz the
For the tacos
› › › › › › › › ›
4 peppers 1 red onion 4 cloves of garlic 1 tbsp oil 2 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp paprika powder 1 tsp ground cumin 4 tbsp chipotle sauce Salt
The tacos 1 Thinly slice the red peppers and
red onion. Finely chop the garlic. 2 Add some vegetable oil to a pan and fry the sliced red onion on a medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper slices, and fry for another 5 minutes. Add the herbs, spices and the chipotle sauce, and fry for a further 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
› Pepper › 12 small corn tortillas (15 cm) › 125 g sour cream or vegan alternative
3 Heat the tortillas in a pan or in
the microwave. Spread some sour cream on them, add some red peppers, and top with the green salsa.
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garlic, coriander and olive oil in a food processor until smooth. Cut the green peppers and chilli pepper into very small cubes. Drain the sweetcorn. Add the diced green peppers, chilli pepper and sweetcorn to the coriander mixture and give it a good stir. Season with lime juice, salt and pepper.
10 minutes
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BAR SNAPSHOT
BAC, short for Bar à Cocktails, is the exciting new venture of Raphael Betti (formerly of Paname) and Lisa Metz Steffen (from Steffen Group). This charming spot offers a cosy ambiance for a 100% Luxembourgish cocktail experience. Indeed, all the ingredients come from local producers, ensuring exquisite flavours and new discoveries. Indulge in signature cocktails, a curated wine list, and refreshing Diekirch beer on tap. The menu also features dishes to share like mouthwatering “Plant Dogs” ‒ vegan hot dogs with a twist. Inside, an intimate space awaits featuring a central bar where skilled mixologists create their concoctions. Adding to the allure, a fascinating relic ‒ a vintage painting of a woman on a motorcycle salvaged from a former biker bar ‒ adorns one wall.
TEXT PHOTO
Ya n n i c k B u r r o w s Marc Dostert
BAC - 100 % LOC A L
BAC welcomes guests Wednesday to Sunday, from 5 pm until the final elevator ride at 1 am. Feeling thirsty? Head to 7, rue Vauban in the heart of Luxembourg’s Pfaffenthal district.
Serves 1
5 minutes
› › › ›
3 cl Poire Williams (Bierendrepp) 2 cl pine tree liqueur (Dännebeemchen) 3 cl sage syrup 2 cl acid of choice (lemon juice, verjuice, fake lemon,…) › A few drops of sage bitter › Soda water 1 Pour all the ingredients (except the soda)
in a highball glass over cubed ice.
2 Give it a quick stir. 3 Top the drink up with soda. 4 Garnish with some sage leaves. 5 Serve.
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@ bac_luxembourg
SOI S S AG E
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ADVERTORIAL
S UMME R , S UN S HINE . . . & WINE ! embark on a tasting tour through the region’s charming winegrowing villages, where you’ll be sure to find new favourites to offer your garden party guests. Visit a wine cellar, book a tasting session or head out to one of the many weekend wine festivals where you can meet and chat with winegrowers, who will be more than happy to help you find the perfect wines to pair with your summer barbecue menu.
Good mood guaranteed
Get the summer, terrace and barbecue season off to a sunny start with Vins & Crémants Luxembourg! Cheers to an unforgettable summer!
Information on the Vins & Crémants winegrowers can be found at vins-cremants.lu/en
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We’ve been eagerly awaiting it, and now it’s finally here again: Summertime! Time for sunglasses, sunhats, summer clothes and, of course, something we all love: terrace season! Whether as a couple or with friends, long summer evenings are best spent outdoors – at home or on the terrace of your favourite bar or restaurant. Finally, the smell of charcoal and suntan lotion is in the air again... It’s enough to make you feel hungry ...and thirsty! Barbecues are coming out of their winter hibernation, ready for their annual sizzling service. Gardens up and down the country are preparing to host barbecue parties. But what would a barbecue party be without an aperitif: a chilled glass of wine or sparkling Crémant, white or rosé, from the Luxembourg Moselle? Take the time this summer to visit the winegrowers along the Luxembourg side of the Moselle river, and
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L A GR APPE D’OR
TEXT PHOTOS
Marie Tissier Graphisterie Générale
A N E NC H A NT ING E SC A PE La Grappe d’Or was opened by chef Clément Petitjean on the Belgium-Luxembourg border just a year ago with his partner, Monia Aouini. The Belgian chef has already regained the Michelin star he earned at his previous La Grappe d’Or, 40 km away in Torgny. The large modern building in which the new restaurant is housed was a floor-to-ceiling renovation project by fellow Belgian Clotilde Filipucci, also from Petitjean’s native Florenville. This was one of Filipucci’s very first projects – she recently set up her interior design studio, Milkshake, in Luxembourg together with Sandrine Monteiro. “The final design is the fruit of many ideas and discussions. The concept for the restaurant’s dining room was to create a dream-like bubble; a plush, carefree retreat from everyday life. La Grappe d’Or is not somewhere to just pop into for a quick bite to eat; it’s a place to relax and unwind, to savour your meal, the company you’re in, and your surroundings,” explains the interior designer. “The lounge area has a more energetic vibe: it’s where you go for an aperitif or after-dinner drink.” In this part of the restaurant, the emphasis is on fun and quirky contemporary design: the brightly coloured rugs on the floor (from Moooi) are otherworldly and the white ceramic Seletti wall vases are heart-shaped – anatomical hearts, that is!
On cloud nine
yourself in a large airy space with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a garden. An overwhelming sense of serenity, softness and intimacy…an enchanting escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life. The high pile carpet, ultracomfy chairs and deep, spacious custom-made benches epitomise luxury cosiness. The powder pink, soft turquoise blue and white colour scheme, not to mention the cloudlike ceiling lights, add to the relaxing ambiance. The crockery was handmade by ceramist Véronique Leukers, a former neighbour in Torgny, and the small vases by Eva Kengen in Vaux-sur-Sûre. Even the knives have a story to tell: Antoine Van Loocke, from Ghent, designed them especially for La Grappe d’Or. “He reuses old blades and crafts the handles to suit the look and feel of the restaurants he works with,” says Petitjean. The cherrywood tables and cheese trolley were designed by cabinetmaker Kris Rabaut from Erneuville, north of Bastogne. There is little doubt that the Michelin Green Star awarded to La Grappe d’Or this year is down to the fact that most of its design elements have been sourced locally. Filipucci explains that the chef wanted “each and every element to have a story or designer behind it.” And this wish was granted.
L A GR APPE D’OR 317, Rte de Luxembourg — B-6700 Arlon Tel. +32 / 63 57 70 56
lagrappedor.com
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Above the reception area, a large floral arrangement by Arlon florists BöHö marks the transition between lounge and dining room. On entering the dining room, you’ll find
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R E STAU R A N T DE SIGN
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TEXT PHOTO
Marie Tissier Marina Spironetti
T H I N K V EGE TA B L E S! T H I N K F RU I T!®
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T H I N K V EGE TA B L E S! T H I N K F RU I T!®
E NR ICO C R IPPA
A G A R DE NE R OF GOOD TAS T E Regularly feted as one of the best gourmet vegetable In addition, Enrico Crippa and his team grow organic and restaurants in the world by ‘We’re Smart’, Piazza Duomo biodynamic vegetables in Piazza Duomo’s very own vegein Alba, south of Turin, has had further cause to celebrate table garden, comprising a 3-hectare plot and a 400-m2 this year as it marked its 18th anniversary on 5th May. greenhouse. “I go into the vegetable garden every morning Piazza Duomo is run by Chef Enrico Crippa, who to check for myself how the plants are doing and to decide has three Michelin stars to his name and a real passion which vegetables or flowers to use in my dishes that day,” for nature. A passion instilled in him as a child by his he says. “Today, 80% of the vegetables the restaurant uses family in his native Lombardy, where he inherited his come from our garden. I grow local and international varilife-long love of cycling the roads of Italy eties that reflect my culinary experiences from his father; of markets and healthy, abroad, especially in Japan.” locally produced food from his grand“The garden gives us So, how does Enrico Crippa adapt Piazza Duomo’s daily menu to his homesomething new every mother; and of growing vegetables from grown produce? day. That fascinates his grandfather. “The garden gives us something new and inspires me.” After studying hotel management, every day. That fascinates and inspires Enrico Crippa went on to train under one me. At Piazza Duomo, we don’t have an à of Italy’s most famous chefs: Gualtiero Marchesi, in Milan. In 1996, Marchesi sent him to Kobe, la carte menu, but rather tasting menus: ‘Il Viaggio’ and Japan, to open a restaurant. During his time there, Enrico ‘Barolo’. We look at these menus each day and adapt them Crippa learned a new way of presenting nature on plates, depending on the availability of ingredients. ‘Seasonal embracing aspects and influences of Japanese culture Things’ is our latest menu, launched in May in honour of that enabled him to develop his culinary imagination and our 18th anniversary. This is a carte blanche menu that focuses on seasonality and draws exclusively on whatever that continue to inspire his creations today. Back in Italy, he met the Ceretto family, with whom ingredients are available in our vegetable garden that he co-launched the Piazza Duomo restaurant project in day. You can’t get any fresher than that!” Alba in 2005. In 2006, he earned his first Michelin star, For this lover of flavour and precision, each dish is a work followed by his second in 2009 and his third in 2012. of art. His ‘Insalata 21... 31... 41... 51’ is the best proof of this.
PIAZZA DUOMO 4, Piazza Risorgimento — 12051 - Alba/Italy Tel. +39 / 0173 366 167
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piazzaduomoalba.it
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