Lunds & Byerlys Real Food Fall 2021

Lunds & Byerlys

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FALL 2021

COMPLIMENTARY

Soup’s

On!

Comforting flavors for the fall table

03

I’

FREE

DATE NIGHT DINNER

A multi-course menu for you and your special someone

VIVA ITALIA

Decadent ricotta lasagna, perfect brined pork chops and more

BATCH COOKING

Plan once, prep and enjoy a week of easy meals

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contents

real food

®

fall 2021

Features 20 Date Night Dinner reate a flavorful multi-course meal for C you and your special someone B Y SERENA BASS

30 Soup’s On

Comforting bowls mix in flavors from around the globe B Y ROBIN ASBELL

38 Dinner is Ready

I n less than two hours you can set yourself up for a week of easy meals with step-by-step batch cooking tips RECIPES BY KEDA BLACK

44 That’s Amore!

ozy up with traditional and modern twists on C Italian comfort food RECIPES BY JOEY CAMPANARO

52 Sheldon Simeon

The “Top Chef” Fan Favorite dishes on what it means to “Cook Real Hawai’i”

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Easy as Pie: Spice up your sweet treats RECIPES BY K ATE MCDERMOTT

6 Kitchen Skills Cooking is easier with these must-have kitchen tools

BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Fennel: A versatile vegetable

BY MEREDITH OECHLER

18 Healthy Habits Spices: Flavoring and healthy benefits in one

BY K YRA BOWAR

56 Pairings Pinot Noir: A food-friendly velvety vino

BY MARY SUBIALK A

DRIED BLACK FIGS WITH BLUE CHEESE, HAZELNUT AND THYME (SEE RECIPE ON PAGE 29)

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44

6

35

Our Cover

BEER-CHEESE SOUP WITH RYE BREAD CROUTONS PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

real food

®

PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR CUSTOM PUBLISHING JOHN GARLAND CONTENT DIRECTOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITORS LIV MARTIN AND ERIK TORMOEN EDITORIAL INTERNS KYRA BOWAR, HOLLY GILVARY, SAM JOHNSON, CAITLIN KOSEC, MEREDITH OECHLER AND NATALIE RYDER CREATIVE DIRECTOR TONYA SUTFIN SENIOR ART DIRECTOR TED ROSSITER ADVERTISING TRAFFIC MANAGER LY NGUYEN ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE JOHANNA MORIARTY VOLUME 17, NUMBER 3 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 9401 James Ave. S, Suite 152, Bloomington, MN 55431, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

fall 2021 real food 3

bites

Honey Walnut Orange Pie MAKES 1 (9-INCH) TART OR SHALLOW PIE

The idea for this recipe came to me in a dream, and when I woke up I couldn’t wait to make it. I took it as a very good omen when “Cook with Honey,” a Judy Collins song I remembered from my early 20s, began to stream on the internet radio just as I was adding in a cup of orange blossom honey, which I had been saving for a special occasion. The combination of the music and special honey made this pie seem magical.

1 cup honey, orange blossom if possible (see Cook’s Notes) 1 tablespoon flour 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) butter, melted, divided 2 eggs, fork beaten ¾ teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon orange blossom water (optional) zest of 1 orange 1 teaspoon cardamom ⅛ teaspoon salt 2 cups finely chopped walnuts 1 pound phyllo dough, defrosted (see Cook’s Notes)

HONEY WALNUT ORANGE PIE

Easy as Pie

Spice up your pies with these elevated takes on classics

A

utumn wouldn’t be the same without the rich, spiced pies that often make appearances. No matter what you prefer to dig into, you can’t go wrong with apple, pumpkin or pecan pies. But if you find yourself returning to the same recipes year after year, you might want a copy of “Pie Camp,” the latest cookbook by James Beard Award-nominated author of “Art of the Pie” Kate McDermott. She takes you through the basics of pie making, from crafting a reliable dough to the best tools you should have RECIPES AND PHOTOS on hand. But the real jewels inside FROM “PIE CAMP” BY KATE MCDERMOTT © “Pie Camp” are the recipes—two of 2020 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE which are listed here. These invenCOUNTRYMAN PRESS, A DIVISION OF W.W. NORTON tive takes on classics are packed & COMPANY. PHOTOS BY ANDREW SCRIVANI. with flavor and sure to be a hit at your table. —liv martin

4 real food fall 2021

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. In a medium bowl, place the honey, flour, 1 tablespoon of the melted butter, fork-beaten eggs, vanilla, orange blossom water, orange zest, cardamom, salt, and 1½ cups of the chopped walnuts. Mix together until combined and set aside.

3. Butter the pan with some of the melted butter.

4. Carefully and gently lay 1 sheet of phyllo dough over the buttered plate. The edges will hang over the rim of the pan.

Lightly brush with butter.

5. Repeat with 3 more sheets of phyllo dough, brushing lightly with butter after each sheet is added.

6. Lightly press the buttered sheets of phyllo down into the pan.

7. Pour in the walnut honey orange filling, using a rubber or silicone spatula to get the entire delicious filling into the pan.

8. As if they were all one, roll tightly the edges of the phyllo dough sheets that are hanging over the rim of the pan, an inch or so toward the center of the pan, so they form a coil touching the inner edges of the pan.

APPLE PANDOWDY

9. Brush another sheet of phyllo dough with butter and carefully roll it up into one long rope. Lay the rope in a coil on top of the filling. Repeat this step six or seven times more until the entire top of the filling is topped with buttered and rolled sheets of phyllo dough in concentric circles.

10. If you like, take an additional buttered sheet of phyllo dough, lightly scrunch it up and place it in the middle of the pie, tucking it down just a bit into the center of the coils.

11. Sprinkle the remaining ½ cup of walnuts over the top of the pie. Brush any remaining butter over the top of the pie.

12. Bake for 50 minutes until golden brown.

Cool for at least 1 hour before cutting.

Cook’s Notes: n Orange blossom honey has a mild and light citrus flavor. Clover honey, which is also mild tasting, can be substituted. n Defrost delicate phyllo dough in the fridge overnight, and use a light touch when handling. The sheets can dry out quickly, so keep them covered with plastic wrap and a damp kitchen towel on top to keep them moist as you work.

Apple Pandowdy MAKES 1 (9- TO 10-INCH) DEEP-DISH PIE

A pandowdy is a very humble looking pie baked with only a top crust in a deep-dish baking dish or even a cast-iron skillet. You can make it look a little dowdy by breaking up the top of the crust a bit with a spoon.

Serve with scoops of vanilla ice cream. This is delicious made with pears, too. ½ recipe Roll-Out Dough (see recipe right) butter for greasing baking dish or cast iron skillet 6 to 8 apples, peeled or unpeeled, quartered, cored, sliced or chopped ½ cup granulated sugar, plus 2 teaspoons or more for sprinkling on top ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 gratings of nutmeg ½ teaspoon allspice 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar or 1 to 2 teaspoons fresh-squeezed lemon juice 1 to 2 tablespoons Calvados (optional)

¼ cup flour 1 tablespoon butter, melted ice cream, for serving 1. Make the dough and place in the fridge to chill.

2. Place a sheet pan or cookie sheet on the lowest rack in the oven and preheat to 425°F. Butter a 9- to 10-inch deep-dish baking dish or cast iron skillet.

3. In a large mixing bowl, put the apples, sugar, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, vinegar, Calvados and flour, and mix lightly until most of the surfaces are covered with what looks like wet sand. Pour the mixture into the buttered baking dish or skillet.

4. Roll out the dough 1 inch larger than the pie pan and lay it over the apple filling. Tuck the edge of the dough down and inside the baking dish or skillet. Cut a few rustic vents on top of the crust.

5. Brush the top with some melted butter and sprinkle with sugar.

6. Place the pandowdy on the heated sheet pan and bake for 20 minutes.

7. Turn down the oven to 375°F, then move the pan onto the middle rack and bake for an additional 25 to 30 minutes more until you see some steady bubbling around the sides and coming through the vents. Remove from the oven and let cool for a bit.

8. Before serving, break up the top crust a bit with a spoon, spoon into bowls and serve with scoops of ice cream.

Roll-Out Dough MAKES 2 DOUGH DISCS; HALVE AMOUNTS FOR 1 DOUGH DISC

2½ cups all-purpose flour, unbleached, plus more for rolling out dough 1 cup chilled fat of your choice, cut into tablespoon-size pieces 1 tablespoon granulated sugar (optional) ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup ice water, plus 1-2 tablespoons more as needed 1. Make sure all the ingredients are chilled.

2. Put all the ingredients but the ice water in a large bowl.

3. With clean hands, quickly smoosh the mixture together, or use a single blade

mezzaluna or pastry blender with an up and down motion, until the ingredients look like cracker crumbs with lumps the size of peas and almonds. These lumps will make your crust flaky. Don’t coat all the flour with fat. You should still see some white floury places in the bowl when you are finished. Work quickly so that the dough still feels chilly when you are done.

4. Sprinkle 5 to 6 tablespoons of the ice water over the mixture, fluffing and tossing lightly with a fork as you do.

5. Sprinkle over more water as needed, a tablespoon at a time, and fluff with a fork after each addition until it holds together.

When the dough looks shaggy in the bowl, you are getting close. Give some of your dough a firm handshake and see if it holds together. If it does, go on to Step 6. If it doesn’t, add a bit more water if needed for the dough to come together. The dough should feel moist without feeling tacky.

6. Form and pat the dough into a big ball.

If it feels a little dry on the outside, dip your fingers into some ice water and pat them on the outside of the dough in a few places. Don’t get it so wet that it is sticky.

The dough should feel like a cool clay and firm yet pliable.

7. Divide the dough in half and make 2 chubby discs about 5 inches across.

8. Wrap the discs separately in plastic wrap and chill for a minimum of 20 minutes and up to 3 days. n

fall 2021 real food 5

kitchen skills

Must-Have Kitchen Tools With these kitchen items in hand, cooking will be easier than ever

BY JASON ROSS

T

he kitchen collects gadgets and tools like no other room in the house. Cabinets fill with pasta rollers, silicon mats, air-fryers and whatever nifty tool is in vogue at any given moment. But the tools we’ve outlined here won’t collect dust in the back of your pantry. Use these must-have, affordable items in the recipes that follow.

A cast iron pan will quickly become your most-used pan. It holds heat like a dream without temperature fluctuations—when it gets hot, it stays hot, making it the best pan to sear steaks and fish or anything else, and also makes it perfect for pan-frying.

Once properly seasoned (see below), it maintains a non-stick surface great for eggs, pancakes or cornbread. Cast iron is nearly indestructible and goes straight from the stove, to oven, to tabletop (as in the recipe, below, for seared salmon and zucchini). Stove-to-oven capability makes cast iron the right choice for braises and slow-cooked foods, too. Incredibly, cast iron looks and performs better with age.

To season, rub the pan’s surfaces with a neutral oil like canola or vegetable. Follow by baking the pan for 30 minutes in a 450°F oven. Allow the pan to cool, and repeat, oiling and baking a few more times, until you notice a shiny and smooth patina building on the pan.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

Cast Iron Pan-Seared Salmon with Zucchini and Herb Butter MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The cast iron pan skills used in this dish— searing on the stove and finishing in the oven—can be applied to nearly any meat or poultry. ¼ stick soft room temperature salted butter 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill, divided 6 real food fall 2021

½ ¼ 1 1½ ¼ 1½ 1 ½ ½

teaspoon minced lemon zest teaspoon granulated garlic tablespoon olive oil pounds skin-on salmon filet teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste teaspoons salt, divided pound zucchini, halved and sliced in ½-inch pieces red onion, halved and sliced in ½-inch pieces lemon juice

1. Heat oven to 350°F. 2. In a small mixing bowl, use the back of a spoon to beat and soften the butter.

(You could also use a mixer, but it’s not really worth the trouble for a small amount of butter.) Add 1 tablespoon dill, plus the zest and granulated garlic, and mix to fully incorporate. Set aside.

3. Pat dry the salmon and season with ¼ teaspoon pepper and ¾ teaspoon salt.

4. Heat a large cast iron pan on medium high heat. Add the olive oil. Wait for the oil to get hot and place the salmon filet in

Tools You Need n A bench knife and bowl scraper make working with dough more fun, easy and neat. Use a bench knife to cut butter, brownies and doughs. Since you grip it from above (not from the side like a regular knife), cutting items in sheet trays is much easier.

It might not seem like a big issue, but you would be surprised how much faster and more accurate it is to cut things using a bench knife. It’s also helpful for cleaning up a work surface or shaping breads, especially wet doughs. And a bowl scraper is the absolute best tool for getting batters and doughs out of a rounded bowl. It’s also a fun tool for cutting in butter—check out the recipe for scones on page 8 for more on that. n A professional kitchen would grind to a halt without piles of hand towels. Use them to clean and sanitize the kitchen, handle hot foods out of the oven and to dry hands after washing. You can even use towels underneath soufflé dishes to keep them from sliding around in their water bath or when making gently cooked foods like crème brûlée or cheesecake. n Sheet trays, parchment paper and a wire rack might be the combination you use most in your oven. You probably already have sheet trays, which can be used for just about any roasted item—from vegetables, to croutons, to an entire turkey—but there are two accessories that unlock their potential, depending on what you’d like to achieve.

For better browning, a wire rack elevates roasted foods, making for better airflow and browning on all sides. Racks can also be used for cooling breads and baked items, or to drain fried foods of oil. Parchment helps keep your pan clean and protects foods like brownies from discoloring or sticking.

the pan skin side down, cooking for about 8 minutes, or until the skin is browned and crisp. Look at the sides of the filet and wait until the fish develops an opaque ring of doneness ¼ inch up the sides of the filet from the pan. Use a fish spatula to lift the fish out of the pan and onto a plate, skin side facing up.

5. Turn the heat down to medium/medium-low and add the zucchini and onion.

Make sure all vegetables are coated in oil, drizzling on a little more if needed.

Sprinkle the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt

and pepper to taste on the vegetables.

Use a wooden spoon to toss and coat the vegetables in the residual oil in the pan, picking up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Cook for 2 to 3 more minutes.

6. Place the salmon, skin side up, on the vegetables in the pan, and transfer the pan to the oven. Cook in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes until the salmon is cooked.

It will be firm and register 130-135°F on a thermometer. If you start to see white bits clinging to the flesh that almost look like cooked egg whites, you know the fish is

cooked and heading towards over-cooked.

7. Put the pan on the stove, with the heat off, flip fish to skin-side down, and spoon the butter onto the fish, basting the fish as it melts. Squeeze lemon juice onto the fish and vegetables, and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon fresh dill on top.

8. Serve immediately. The herb butter can be made and stored wrapped in the refrigerator up to 2 days before and softened at room temperature a few hours before serving.

Continued on next page

fall 2021 real food 7

contributors Robin Asbell spreads the word about

how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. Her latest book is “Plant-Based Meats.” She is also the author of “Great Bowls of Food,” “Big Vegan,” “Gluten-Free Pasta” and more.

Cranberry Maple Glazed Pecan Scones MAKES 6 SCONES

This recipe uses the bowl scraper, bench knife, sheet tray and parchment paper. It’s hard to imagine a better excuse to try all these kitchen must-haves. The dough is on the wet side, making the bench knife and scraper handy for shaping, transferring and handling.

¼ ½ 2 ½ 2 ½

cup sugar teaspoon baking soda teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt cups cake flour cup all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting 1½ sticks chilled unsalted butter

1. In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cake flour and all-purpose flour.

2. Cut the butter into ¼ inch cubes with a bench knife. Scatter the butter in the bowl with the dry ingredients and use bowl scraper to mix butter into the flour. After butter is coated, use the bowl scraper to flatten and cut the pieces into the dough.

When the butter is mostly incorporated, you can switch to using your fingertips to work the butter into a coarse sand texture with a few small, flat pea-sized pieces scattered throughout. Refrigerate the mixture for a few minutes.

3. In a medium sized bowl, lightly whisk together the chilled buttermilk, eggs and vanilla. Using the bowl scraper, mix the wet mixture into the dry ingredients. As the mixture comes together, sprinkle in pecans and cranberries and work them into the dough. Stop mixing when the

dough is combined and any bits of dry flour have been absorbed; try not to overmix.

4. Prepare a sheet tray with parchment paper and a light dusting of all-purpose flour. Sprinkle flour on the dough and use a bowl scraper to transfer it to the sheet tray. Use the side of the bowl scraper to press and shape the dough into an 8-inch circle, roughly 1-inch thick. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

5. While the dough is chilling, heat the oven to 400°F. 6. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and unwrap. Use the bench knife to cut 6 pie-wedge-shaped pieces and push and separate each piece by at least a ½-inch of space on the sheet tray. Bake in oven 18 to 20 minutes, rotating the pan at 9 minutes.

7. While the scones bake, mix the maple syrup and confectioner’s sugar together with a spoon in a small bowl.

8. Remove scones from oven and let cool for 10 to 15 minutes; then use a spoon to drizzle them liberally with maple glaze.

Cook’s Note: Scone dough can be refrigerated raw for up to 1 day before baking.

They are best eaten on the day of baking and even better still warm. Extra baked scones can be frozen in zip-top bags and reheated in the oven for 5 to 10 minutes, but are not as good as when made fresh. n

n u t r i t i o n (p e r s e r v i n g) CAST IRON PAN-SEARED SALMON WITH ZUCCHINI AND HERB BUTTER: CALORIES: 330, FAT: 17G (SAT: 6G), CHOLESTEROL: 95 MG, SODIUM: 1050 MG, CARB: 6G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 4G, PROTEIN: 37G CRANBERRY MAPLE GL AZED PECAN SCONES: CALORIES: 640, FAT: 32G (SAT: 15G), CHOLESTEROL: 120 MG, SODIUM: 520 MG, CARB: 82G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 34G, PROTEIN: 9G

8 real food fall 2021

½ 2 ¼ ½ ¾ 3 ½

cup cold buttermilk cold eggs teaspoon vanilla extract cup pecans pieces, roasted cup dried cranberries tablespoons maple syrup cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted

Serena Bass is known for being New York

City’s caterer to the stars and has thrown parties for Andy Warhol, Giorgio Armani, Kate Spade, Sarah Jessica Parker, Nathan Lane, and countless others. Her cookbook, “Serena, Food & Stories,” won the James Beard Award for best entertaining book. She is also executive chef at Lido restaurant in Harlem, New York.

Terry Brennan

is a photographer based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Clients include Target, General Mills, Land O’Lakes and Hormel. “Working with Real Food is a highlight—I look forward to every issue.

I love working with the creative team and, of course, sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Joey Campanaro

is the chef and co-owner of Little Owl, Market Table and The Clam in New York City. He was raised in an Italian-American household in South Philadelphia, where the food of his childhood inspired him to make cooking his vocation.

With a culinary approach firmly rooted in his Italian grandmother’s kitchen and honed in a range of America’s top restaurants, he brings a lifelong affinity for Mediterranean cuisine to every dish he creates.

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Jason Ross

is a chef consultant for restaurants and hotels, developing menus and concepts for multiple high profile properties. He grew up and trained in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home.

Currently, he teaches the next generation of chefs at Saint Paul College Culinary School.

Tara Q. Thomas is a lapsed chef

who trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York. She used to enjoy going out to dinner before she had kids—now, she prefers to interview chefs, gathering intel on how to make home dinners better. Thomas writes for several magazines, most prominently Wine & Spirits, where she is an editor and wine critic covering European wines. She has also contributed to the “Oxford Companion to Cheese” and the “Oxford Companion to Spirits.”

She lives in Brooklyn, New York.

Lunds & Byerlys

welcome

Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina 50th Street: 952-926-6833 France Avenue: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Nokomis: 612-729-4000 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka Glen Lake: 952-512-7700 Highway 7: 952-935-0198 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222 White Bear Lake: 651-653-0000 Woodbury: 651-999-1200 SHOP ONLINE Shop.LundsandByerlys.com CATERING LundsandByerlys.com/Catering 952-897-9800 L&B EXTRAS Get extra offers and tools to make shopping easier.

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Ever Evolving I t’s one of those moments I will never forget. As I was driving home on March 11, 2020, a family member in North Carolina called and asked if I had seen the news. She said stores throughout the country were running out of proteins—beef, chicken and pork— given concerns about the COVID-19 pandemic.

I told her we weren’t experiencing that in our stores—not yet, anyway. Within hours, everything seemed to change as the NBA canceled its season, companies asked their staff to work from home and our stores began experiencing product shortages. We all quickly realized the significance of this pandemic and how it was going to fundamentally change nearly every aspect of our lives.

Our L&B family knew it would take all of our care, compassion and effort to implement additional safety protocols and be smart, fast and creative in sourcing products to keep our shelves stocked to the absolute best of our abilities. Our staff was determined to be the best they could possibly be in the face of the biggest challenge we’ve seen in our lifetimes, and they rose to that challenge.

As we turn the corner on this pandemic and say good-bye to masks and social distancing, there will undoubtedly be lasting impacts to the ways in which many of us live, work and shop. Ordering groceries online has replaced visits to the grocery store. And preparing food at home has significantly increased as restaurants were forced to close their dining spaces throughout much of the pandemic.

Here at Lunds & Byerlys, we’ve been closely monitoring the changing needs of our customers as we continuously evolve our products and services to meet your evolving needs.

When the pandemic began, demand for our online shopping service nearly quadrupled. And while that initial spike has subsided, we continue to see demand

at a level we didn’t expect to reach for another five years as people experience the convenience of our curbside pickup and delivery options. To meet this growing demand and further enhance our online shopping experience, we’re making additional investments in our order fulfillment technology so we can more quickly shop each order. We also partnered with FlyBuy, which notifies us when an online shopping customer is approaching our store as yet another way we’re making the experience even easier and quicker.

And now, with more and more people eating at home, we’ve introduced a wide selection of fresh-sliced meats and cheeses in our deli. We also continue to expand our grab-and-go offerings and recently implemented a Smart Buy program across all departments. Our Smart Buys are larger sizes of everything from ground beef, chicken and shredded cheese to strawberries, raspberries and granola bars, which allows you to buy more at a lower cost so you can stock up and save.

Our L&B family is passionately committed to meeting your needs today and anticipating your needs tomorrow so we can always provide you with a sensational shopping experience regardless of when, where or how you choose to shop with us.

Thank you for the opportunity to serve you, and we hope you continue to enjoy Real Food.

Sincerely,

Tres Lund president and ceo

lundsandbyerlys.com real food 9

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Lunds & Byerlys

produce

Fresh with

Flavor

Include L&B Herbs in your recipes for a delicious pop of seasoning you can’t beat

BY ROD BORDEN, DIRECTOR OF PRODUCE

COMPOUND BUTTER ADOBE STOCK / ILIA NESOLENYI

T

hroughout the world, beautiful fresh herbs are celebrated by chefs and home cooks alike for the incredible flavor they provide to dishes. Whether you’re making a batch of guacamole studded with cilantro, a green goddess dressing with tarragon or pasta garnished with basil, fresh herbs just can’t be beat.

Here at Lunds & Byerlys, we’re excited to introduce you to our new L&B Herbs. Our partners at Goodness Gardens carefully grow L&B Herbs on their 50-acre farm in Orange County, New York. For more than two years, our produce team and customers have shared many positive comments about the freshness and overall quality of the Goodness Gardens fresh herbs, and we’re honored to be working with them to bring you some of the freshest organic and conventional herbs available.

The L&B Organic Herbs come in two sizes—0.25-ounce and 0.75-ounce packages—and include several varieties, such as basil, lemon grass, rosemary, chives, mint, sage, dill, oregano, tarragon, cilantro and thyme. We also offer conventional herbs in the larger 0.75-ounce packages. In addition to traditional favorites like basil, dill and mint, we have bay leaves, lemon thyme, Thai basil, marjoram and chervil. Plus, options like the Italian festival mix, poultry herbs mix, and the soup and stew herb mix make cooking projects even easier. We have also added edible flowers to our roster, which include beautiful flowers that are perfect to garnish cocktails, salads and more.

We’re excited for you to try our new L&B Herbs in your favorite recipes. Look for them in a produce department near you and please share your feedback with our produce teams! n

TIP

Compound the Flavor

Did you purchase fresh herbs for a recipe and have some left? Put them to good use by making a compound butter. Take the fresh herbs you have on hand—we’ve tried this with rosemary, thyme and sage—and combine with a softened stick of butter. We also love a combination of basil and lemon zest. Compound butters are delicious spread on crusty bread, grilled meats or steamed veggies, and they keep in the fridge for 1 week or in the freezer for 2 months.

lundsandbyerlys.com real food 11

Lunds & Byerlys

beverages

The L&B Guide to

Tea

Tea comes in a wide variety of types and flavors. Here’s a tour of some of the most popular and delicious options.

Rooibos Tea

Herbal Tea

Herbal teas are technically not really tea. All “true” tea is made from the leaves of the Camellia sinensis bush, but herbal teas like hibiscus, chamomile, ginger or mango are made from dried fruits, bark, herbs, spices and flowers, making them herbal infusions, or “tisanes,” rather than tea. We still treat tisanes like tea and prepare them the same way. To make a cup of herbal tea, steep loose-leaf tea or prepared tea bags in hot water according to the directions on the package.

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CUP OF TEA ADOBE STOCK / MAREN WINTER

Rooibos is a slightly sweet, earthy tea with a deep red color. It is mild, refreshing and highly drinkable. Rooibos doesn’t have caffeine and is also free of tannins—plant compounds that give black teas their hint of bitterness—and oxalic acid, which can lead to kidney stones. Red tea won’t turn bitter as it steeps, so you can leave the tea bag in the water for a few minutes or an hour, and still have a delicious (albeit cold) cup of tea.

We love adding orange spice to our L&B Organic Rooibos for an unforgettable flavor.

Green Tea

Green tea is one of the “true” teas, as it’s derived from the Camellia sinensis bush, and can take on different flavor notes based on where it was grown, how it was harvested and how it was processed.

That’s why you’ll see different types of green tea, like bancha, sencha and matcha, on the shelves. Most green teas are earthy, slightly bitter and astringent. Green tea contains caffeine, but it’s associated with a much milder buzz than coffee. Green tea also contains an amino acid called L-theanine, which is said to promote relaxation. To make green tea, bring hot water to a boil and then let it cool for two minutes. You want water that is slightly off the boil so that it doesn’t burn the delicate leaves. Most green teas steep for two to four minutes. Our L&B Organic Sencha Green Tea makes a vibrant, flavorful cup.

Mint Tea

Mint tea is an herbal infusion, not a “true” tea, as it’s made from dried mint leaves.

Mint-infused tea is enjoyed for its taste and is believed by some to help with digestion, quiet an upset stomach, ease a headache and boost one’s concentration. It’s bright and refreshing. Steep mint tea for several minutes or let leaves linger even longer. The mint flavor will become stronger with time, but it won’t turn bitter. Mint tea is caffeine-free, so feel free to drink it at any point throughout the day.

Chai

Chai is black tea blended with spices and served with warm or steamed milk and honey.

The beverage, which is a mainstay in India, brims with warm spices like ginger, clove, cinnamon, cardamom and black pepper. The type of black tea most often used as the base for chai is Assam, which is grown in the Assam region of northeast India. Chai can be purchased loose-leaf, in tea bags, as a concentrate or as a dried powder. Set a timer if you’re worried that you’ll forget the tea bag in hot water. Chai contains caffeine and tannins, so it will become over-extracted and bitter if it’s left to steep for too long.

We included all the classic spices in our version, the L&B Organic Bombay Chai Tea.

Fruit-Based Herbal Tea

Fruit-based herbal teas are just that—herbal infusions made with dried fruit. They’re bright and refreshing, and they don’t contain caffeine, so they’re great for drinking as a palate-cleansing digestif or cozy evening refreshment. You can steep them in boiling water for as long as you like without fear of over-extraction. Try our caffeine-free L&B Organic Apple Cranberry Tea—coziness in a cup.

Black Tea

Black tea is the most consumed tea in the world and is a “true” tea. Different types of black tea come from bushes grown in different regions. Some black teas are created by adding a flavor or spice. Earl Gray is black tea with added bergamot oil. Our L&B Organic English Tea is rich, robust and invigorating. Black tea has caffeine and is full of tannins, so follow the steeping instructions on the package to make sure you don’t over-extract the leaves. n

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L U N D S & B Y E R LY S

WHAT’S IN STORE 1

SCOTT & JON’S INDULGENT HEALTHY FROZEN MEALS

Brothers Scott and Jon teamed up to create premium, low-calorie frozen meals that are simple, healthy and convenient. Each bold, flavorful recipe is filled with recognizable, sustainable ingredients and delicious spices to create healthier, low-calorie versions of the indulgent recipes Scott and Jon love. Every dish is under 300 calories and goes from freezer to microwave to table in less than five minutes. Varieties include pesto penne with veggies, vegetable pad thai, cheddar mac and cheese with broccoli, and creamy tomato basil tortellini.

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L&B CHEESECAKE

It’s dessert time! Whether you’re a diehard chocolate lover or more of a fruit fan, we have the perfect dessert for you. Our L&B Cheesecakes come in a wide variety of sizes and flavors—think key lime, pumpkin, turtle, strawberry, chocolate, vanilla, black forest … you get the idea! Made by our own beloved bakers, each cheesecake starts with a rich, creamy base, followed by meticulous garnishes of beautiful fresh fruit, chocolate shavings and more. Our seasonal treat for fall is the pumpkin cheesecake—creamy cheesecake with warming spices like clove, nutmeg and cinnamon. The 3-inch varieties are perfect to enjoy alone and the 8-inch cheesecakes will serve the whole family! Availability varies by store.

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COBRAM ESTATE 100-PERCENT CALIFORNIA EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

Cobram Estate’s 100-percent California Extra Virgin Olive Oil is made with outstanding olives from the Sacramento Valley region of California. The olives are raised from seedlings, grown carefully and then crushed within hours of being picked, which results in an incredibly fresh, natural olive oil. This award-winning oil is a multipurpose tool in the kitchen, as its fruity notes pair nicely with salads, pasta, vegetables and fish. It’s also outstanding as a dip with crusty bread or for grilling.

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HINT WATER

Hint began by taking “boring old water” and making it delicious—but without sugar or sweeteners. Each bottle combines pure water with natural fruit essences to create a refreshing, calorie- and preservative-free beverage that’s perfect for throwing in your backpack for a long hike or tucking into your car’s cup holder for on-the-go enjoyment. The new 1-liter size comes in pineapple, blackberry, cherry and watermelon flavors.

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SARTORI FARMHOUSE CHEDDAR

Inspired by dedicated local family farms in Wisconsin, Sartori Farmhouse Cheddar delivers a perfect combination of sharp, savory and buttery notes. The end result is an experience that is rich and full of flavor. No matter how you slice it, this Farmhouse Cheddar is an outstanding, versatile cheese! Try it served on top of warm apple pie or nestled into a cheeseboard with dried fruit, sesame crackers and currant preserves. Farmhouse Cheddar is best paired with Pinot Grigio, brown ales and citrus IPAs.

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L &B GRILLING SAUCES

Meet our new lineup of L&B Grilling Sauces! Each bold sauce is made using high-quality ingredients and offers a simple way to add flavor to meals. The L&B Carolina Gold Mustard combines spicy mustard with a hint of apple cider and cayenne pepper, which is outstanding paired with pork tenderloin, pork chops, brats and burgers. The L&B Tangy Southern Style Grill Sauce is a traditional southern tomato-based sauce with hints of vinegar, tangy mustard, Worcestershire and zippy red pepper. It’s great to slather on smoked meats, ribs, grilled chicken or burgers. And the new L&B Caribbean Grill Sauce melds the tropical fruit flavors of mango and pineapple with spicy jerk notes of jalapeño and chili peppers. This sauce works well with grilled fish, pulled pork, and meat and veggie kabobs. It also makes a great dipping sauce for shrimp and veggies. Whether you want a taste of the islands or a more traditional Southern-style sauce, we have something to accompany every dish.

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MEDIUM RARE

WELL DONE

BETTER TOGETHER.

Delicious meals pair perfectly with life’s beautiful moments. No matter the occasion, Lunds & Byerlys provides the very best ingredients and expertise to help make it special.

Plan a menu around our premium beef cuts or ready-to-grill marinated options.

High-quality food and your personal touch are always Better Together.

Find creative inspiration and simple solutions at lundsandbyerlys.com/bettertogether

ingredient

a food and medicine, and during the Middle Ages, it was hung over doorways to drive away evil spirits.

Raw Fennel

Fantastic Fennel

This versatile ingredient is perfect in salad, roasted and can even be used to make tea

BY MEREDITH OECHLER

FENNEL ADOBE STOCK / NBLXER FENNEL DETAIL ADOBE STOCK / OSOZNANIEJIZNI

M

eet fennel: the carrot’s underrated, Mediterranean cousin. Its dill-like leaves are often used as a bittersweet garnish, but its bulb—the crunchy, celery-like and onion-shaped orb at its base—is full of flavor and has a variety of uses.

Due to its Mediterranean origins, fennel is extremely popular in Italian cookery. It’s also known as Florence fennel, “finocchio” or sweet fennel. Fennel is low in calories but high in fiber, vitamin C, calcium, iron, magnesium, potassium and manganese.

Fennel also has a long history of use as a digestive aid and fennel seeds have often been eaten throughout religious fasts to stave off hunger.

Fennel plants grow in the wild, and can often be found in locations such as California and Australia, where the plant grows so abundantly it’s been labeled a noxious weed. In the present day, the plant has become naturalized in northern Europe and North America too, but most commercial fennel seed in the United States is imported from Egypt.

In other regions, fennel holds more than just a culinary significance. It was used by ancient Egyptians and Chinese as both

With similar flavors to anise, celery and licorice, raw fennel is great in salads. Marinate it in lemon juice, olive oil and salt, and sprinkle it over kale or arugula with some creamy fats like avocado or pesto.

(Check out the salad with fennel in the Date Night Dinner feature on page 20.)

Cooked Fennel Fennel gets sweeter when the temperature goes up. It caramelizes when cooked, browning at the edges and gaining a sweeter flavor as well as losing its crunch, creating a melt-in-your-mouth texture.

Roasted fennel pairs beautifully with chicken or fish. It also adds a wonderful sweetness to the spice blend for a classic Italian porchetta roast, which should also include fennel seeds and fresh fronds.

Fennel Fronds People almost always buy fennel to use the bulb, but don’t waste the opportunity to add tons of fresh flavor to your salads and dressing with the fronds. Cut off the tiniest, most delicate parts of the fronds, chop them up finely like you would dill or any fresh herb, and add them by the handful to any of your fennel recipes. Or do like the Italians do, and scatter a butterflied pork shoulder with the fresh fronds before rolling it up, tying it with twine and roasting.

Fennel Seeds In addition to being a versatile spice in Mediterranean cooking, fennel seeds can also be dried and used to make a potent and strong-smelling tea. The tea holds some of raw fennel’s natural licorice taste along with a relaxing scent and barely bitter aftertaste. Unwind at the end of your day with a steaming cup of fennel tea. n

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healthy habits

Healing Spices Get tasty and beneficial additives right from your kitchen cabinet

BY K YRA BOWAR

H

erbs and spices don’t just make dishes tastier, they can be great for your mind and body, too.

From antibacterial to immunity-boosting properties, many spices are believed to have a wide variety of health benefits.

Adding more herbs and spices to your diet is one of the easiest ways to not only boost flavor in your dishes but also reduce your use of salt, which may affect heart health. While modern medical research on the benefits of herbs and spices varies, some schools of thought turn to age-old beliefs and practices and embrace this natural approach to eating.

Author and renowned expert on Asian cooking Nina Simonds has studied Chinese cuisine and culture in Taipei, Taiwan, as well as numerous other cultures that predominantly feature healing spices. “As I got more interested in the health aspect of Asian food, I learned about the therapeutic characteristics of herbs and spices,” she says. “The Chinese believe that food is medicinal—that food is not only delicious but it’s health-giving, especially spices.”

And ayurveda, the ancient medical system of India, which encompasses the healing of body, mind and spirit through diet, lifestyle and rejuvenation, also credits herbs and spices (as well as certain foods) with health-giving properties, notes Simonds.

These cultures have long believed food and diet can have an influence on maintaining good health. “Many don’t realize the therapeutic properties of just common herbs and spices that you find in your cupboard,” explains Simonds.

Incorporating more herbs and spices

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Ginger Ginger may soothe nausea, motion and morning sickness and aid in digestion.

“Ginger is soothing for the stomach,” says Simonds. “If you get nauseous, a few slices of smashed ginger in hot water will settle your stomach. … If your throat is feeling scratchy, suck on some candied ginger.”

Uses: Fresh ginger root can be sliced into teas and smoothies or even just eaten raw. Ground ginger is easy to use in baking. You can make your own ginger tea or find it in the store. Chews and capsules are available to be readily consumed with less of ginger’s strong flavor.

Basil This herb is rich in antioxidants and essential oils, especially when fresh. It might even help serve as a topical anti-bacterial preparation.

“Basil, dried or fresh, is a wonderful herb. Not only does it soothe your stomach, but you can rub it on your arms, and it can deflect mosquitoes!” says Simonds.

Uses: Fresh or dried, it’s easy to add to a variety of dishes such as pizza, fresh pesto, salad and more.

Garlic This antioxidant-rich vegetable can be found as fresh cloves, pastes, powders or supplements.

“Garlic is so good for your stomach and [it’s] antibacterial. … As an added bonus, garlic is nutritious but contains few calories,” says Simonds.

Uses: Easy to incorporate into many dishes, especially soups and sauces.

Cinnamon Cinnamon is a heart-healthy antioxidant that may boost immunity against colds, relieve gas and stimulate digestion.

Uses: Sprinkle cinnamon on your coffee, oatmeal, popcorn, vegetables, and more. In addition to the delicious flavor it adds to baked goods, try stirring some into soup, yogurt or butter.

into your diet is most beneficial if done along with a healthy balanced diet, of course. While some spices may require a dietary supplement to get the greatest benefits, using them in your cooking can’t

help but boost the flavor factor while adding a potentially healthy touch.

Here are a few of the spices Simonds recommends keeping stocked in your pantry. n

SAUCY LO MEIN NOODLES WITH TRI-COLORED VEGETABLES MAKE 6 SERVINGS | RECIPE COURTESY OF NINA SIMONDS

Turmeric This spice might help soothe indigestion and has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

“Everybody is talking about turmeric. Why?” asks Simonds.

“Turmeric actually strengthens your immune system. It also gives food a beautiful color. You can buy it fresh at the store, grind it up and freeze it.”

While this spice is lauded for its anti-inflammatory properties, to obtain most benefits, doctors recommend taking turmeric supplements with meals which helps your body absorb its nutrients. And of course, as with all supplements, consult with your healthcare provider before adding to your diet.

Uses: Slice and crush fresh to add to recipes like soups, sauces, rice, smoothies and more. But be careful—turmeric can stain clothing, cutting boards and some dishes.

Storing your Spices It’s important to treat your spices with care to get the most benefits out of them.

“You should keep your herbs and spices in a dark, dry space, not near heat,” explains Simonds. Plus, if they’re a few months (or years old), it’s time to replenish your stock.

Fresh spices make the best spices.

Try her recipe at right and mix garlic and ginger into one tasty dish.

A LW AY S C O N S U LT Y O U R H E A LT H C A R E P R O V I D E R I F Y O U H AV E H E A LT H CONCERNS OR BEFORE MAKING ANY M A J O R D I E TA R Y C H A N G E S .

For the Lo Mein 9 ounces linguine or fettuccine noodles 3 leeks, ends trimmed and sliced lengthwise, or 1 bunch garlic chives 2 tablespoons olive or canola oil 3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 2½ tablespoons minced garlic 2 cups grated carrots (half of a 10-ounce bag) 1 bag (12 ounces) shredded broccoli slaw mix (4½ cups) 2 tablespoons rice wine or sake 1. Prepare the sauce: Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.

2. Heat 4 quarts water until boiling, add the noodles, and cook until al dente 2½ to 4 minutes for fresh noodles or 7 to 9 minutes for dried. Drain in a colander, rinse lightly to remove the starch, and drain again thoroughly.

3. Thoroughly rinse the leeks under cold, running water or garlic chives and drain thoroughly. Trim the ends and cut each into 1½–inch lengths. Cut the leeks lengthwise into julienne slices. The chives are only cut into 1½-inch lengths.

4. Heat the oil in a deep skillet or frying pan over medium-high heat until very hot, about 20 seconds. Add the ginger and stir-fry for about 10 seconds, until fragrant. Add the leeks or garlic chives, the carrots, and broccoli slaw and stir-fry for about 1½ minutes.

Add the rice wine, lower the heat slightly, and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 3 minutes. Add the Sauce mixture, increase the heat to high, and cook, stirring continuously to prevent lumps, until thickened. Add the cooked noodles and toss together until hot. Spoon the lo mein onto a warm platter and serve.

Variation: You may add additional vegetables, such as 2 cups of bean sprouts; or substitute 1 bunch kale, tough ribs discarded, rinsed, drained, and the leaves cut into julienne slices, for the broccoli mix.

ROMULO YANES

GINGER ADOBE STOCK / NATALJA STOTIKA BASIL ADOBE STOCK / SVIATLANA GARLIC ADOBE STOCK / ATOSS CINNAMON ADOBE STOCK / YASONYA TUMERIC ADOBE STOCK / KOLESNIKOVSERG

For the Sauce 2¼ cups vegetarian broth or water 7 tablespoons oyster sauce 3 tablespoons soy sauce 3 tablespoons rice wine or sake 1½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil 1 teaspoon sugar ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1½ tablespoons cornstarch

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ROAST CHICKEN PIECES WITH MAROON OLIVE BUTTER, AND MASHED CAULIFLOWER WITH PARSLEY (SEE RECIPE ON PAGE 26)

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DATE

NIGHT DINNER Create a flavorful multi-course meal for you and your special someone

BY SERENA BASS

W

hether you and your partner have been together for years or you’re getting to know someone new, a date night dinner at home can be a fun way to create a special evening. In my imagination, this date night is based on a couple who both enjoy cooking and would like some involvement in the meal, even if one person is just helping to chop parsley or spoon cream on the soup. But if it is truly a date and you’re learning about each other, there are a lot of things to talk about and quite a few specific ingredients to like or not like, which is fine. You can decide together about the whole menu and swap out any items one of you doesn’t care for.

The menu itself can be pulled apart and the individual items incorporated in other meals, too. Having spent many years as a caterer, I understand ways to expedite a party are helpful, so a number of items in this menu can be made ahead. Light some candles, uncork a bottle of Sangiovese from Tuscany—where grapes for the wine and black olives for the entrée both grow—and celebrate each other.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Garlic Bread MAKES 2 SERVINGS

This is a wonderful companion to any soup but take care not to eat too much since it is addictive and you’re right at the beginning of the meal.

2 ounces (4 tablespoons or ½ stick) unsalted butter, softened 1 or 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed ¼ teaspoon Maldon or sea salt 2 teaspoons minced parsley ¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest 4 or 6 slices French bread 1. Mash the butter, garlic, salt, parsley and lemon zest together and set aside on the counter.

2. Spread the prepared garlic butter on one side of bread slices. Position the rack one-third down from the heat source in your broiler if that is an option. Place bread slices unbuttered side up and broil 2 to 4 minutes, watching carefully until golden brown and slightly charred at the edges. Serve warm.

Baby Green Pea Soup with Marjoram MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS

This is a flexible and delicious soup. In chilly weather, I use either fresh or dried marjoram. Keep the recipe on hand and it can be served with mint in the spring and summer, and it is just as good chilled as it is warm.

For a date night, I would serve no more than ¾ cup of this in a pretty cup on a saucer with a teaspoon on the saucer since soup can fill you up fast and this menu is supposed to showcase a lot of intriguing flavors, not to be a comfort food bonanza.

1 small Vidalia (sweet white) onion, peeled and diced 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter ¾ teaspoon salt 3 cups chicken stock 3 cups (15 ounces) frozen baby peas, warmed under the hot tap (reserve 2 tablespoons peas for garnish) ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram leaves (or 2 teaspoons dried) whipped heavy cream, for garnish (optional) 2 teaspoons chopped fresh marjoram, for garnish 1. Put the onion, olive oil, butter and salt in a pan over medium-low heat. Cover with a lid, or crumpled baking paper and sweat gently without browning for 12 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. While the onion is cooking, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Add the peas to the onions and stir to coat with oil then pour on the boiling chicken stock.

3. Remove from the heat and set aside for 10 minutes. Add the pepper and blend to a smooth cream in a blender (not a food processor).

4. Spoon on the optional heavy cream, scatter with the marjoram and the reserved peas.

Cook’s Notes n When buying the peas, look for frozen baby green peas. Larger peas are not as sweet and tender. n If you are cooking onions or garlic and you don’t want them to brown, add salt to them, as that will pull out the water and they will sweat rather than fry. If you do want them to brown, add the salt last. n If you don’t have a blender, you can use a food processor, but the soup will not be as velvety smooth. n The leftover soup will keep in the refrigerator for 2 days or 2 months in the freezer.

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BABY GREEN PEA SOUP WITH MARJORAM

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GREEN SALAD OF FENNEL, ENDIVE AND ORANGE WITH WHITE BEER DRESSING OR WHITE BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE 24 real food fall 2021

Green Salad of Fennel, Endive and Orange with White Beer Dressing or White Balsamic Vinaigrette MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS

This salad is so fresh, with hints of the bitter endive that has been calmed by the soak in water, mysterious fennel and juicy oranges. I can’t think of a more interesting salad to offer. Serve it with either the White Beer Dressing or the White Balsamic Vinaigrette.

1 small head of fennel 1 fat, firm endive 1 navel orange 1. Using a potato peeler, peel the outside of the fennel as it is often a bit stringy. Cut the fennel in half, then trim the heart of the fennel out and slice the rest as thinly as you can.

2. Pull off 2 or 3 outside leaves of the endive and cut across the endive until you reach the heart, which you’ll discard. Put the cut endive in a bowl of very cold water for 10 minutes, then strain it and scatter over a tea towel.

3. Scatter on the sliced fennel too and roll up the towel. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

4. Slice off the top and bottom of the orange. Stand on one end and, using a small sharp paring knife, cut the skin and white pith completely off, following the curve of the orange. Discard the skin, white pith and any seeds.

5. Cut the orange into thin slices and set aside in a small bowl until serving time when you will tip the orange into a salad bowl and add the endive and fennel then toss with either of the following dressings.

MAKE-AHEAD MENU ITEMS Get a step ahead on date night and enjoy more time together the day before your dinner: You can prepare the Baby Green Pea Soup w ith Marjoram, Mashed Cauliflower with Parsley and Butter and the Delicate Flan in advance. It’s a win-win.

White Beer Dressing MAKES 1⅛ CUPS (ABOUT 6 SERVINGS)

I discovered a version of this delicious dressing in Bruges, Belgium, where they use a lot more endive than we do and are big fans of creamy dressings. You will only need about 3 or so tablespoons of dressing per serving for the Green Salad of Fennel, Endive and Orange, but this is good on almost any green salad, too. The beer doesn’t taste very alcoholic, just gives a little tang.

2 1 ¼ 2 2 ½ ¼

tablespoons white wine vinegar teaspoon minced garlic cup white beer (Hoegaarden is great) teaspoons salt teaspoons freshly ground black pepper cup heavy cream cup mayonnaise

1. In a medium bowl whisk together the vinegar, garlic, beer, salt and pepper, and then slowly whisk in the cream and mayonnaise.

2. Store in a covered container in the fridge. This will last for several days.

White Balsamic Vinaigrette MAKES ABOUT 7 (2-TABLESPOON) SERVINGS

In my world, a vinaigrette that is opaque and creamy is a dressing and one that is thinner, made with oil and vinegar is a vinaigrette. The balance of this dressing is the way I like it, but if you would prefer less honey or hot pepper flakes, go right ahead.

1 cup golden olive oil ¾ cup white balsamic 2 teaspoons sea salt 1 heaping tablespoon honey 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon hot pepper flakes

In a bowl or jar, mix the olive oil, white balsamic, salt, honey, black pepper and pepper flakes.

Cook’s Notes n This makes a lot but it keeps for 1 month, out of the light. I don’t refrigerate it and it lasts perfectly well. n This is especially good with a salad including fruit, like apples or pears. It is also gorgeous on half an avocado or brushed on grilled slices of French bread.

Just shake the vinaigrette well before using to mix everything up.

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Roast Chicken Pieces with Maroon Olive Butter

Mashed Cauliflower with Parsley and Butter

MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 2 CUPS, 2 TO 4 SERVINGS

Get excited about a simple roast chicken with fabulous flavors. If you’ve never had crisp roast chicken with the unexpected tang of buttery Kalamata olives, fresh parsley and lemon, then I think you’re in for a treat. Try to plan so the chicken is salted overnight—it makes a world of difference. You can make the Maroon Olive Butter the day before so you’ll be all organized. Any leftovers are delicious cold for lunch in sandwiches or reheated for another dinner—you can’t go wrong.

Unless you concentrate, you might think this is just mashed potato but then all the interesting flavors come through and you know it is something special.

1 chicken (preferably organic) cut into 2 thighs, 2 legs and 2 bone-in breasts, each breast cut in half, keeping wings attached.

1 teaspoon salt Maroon Olive Butter (recipe page 27) ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper lemon wedges, for serving 5 Kalamata olives (room temperature), for serving 1 bunch fresh oregano, for serving 1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 400°F. Spray a cooling rack with cooking spray (to make washing up easier) and set the rack on a sheet pan.

2. Pat dry the chicken pieces. Trim any excess fat off and sprinkle with the salt. If you have time, leave overnight in the refrigerator, or just set aside for 1 hour (see Cook’s Notes).

3. Ideally, remove from the fridge, pat off any surface moisture, and leave to come to room temperature for 1 hour.

4. Take 1 tablespoon of Maroon Olive Butter per piece of chicken, and rub it all over the chicken then arrange the pieces on the prepared rack on top of the sheet pan.

5. Roast for 30 minutes, removing the breasts at 20 minutes. They can just sit and relax. Remove the legs and thighs from the oven and let stand 15 minutes before serving.

6. Spoon a little extra butter on all the chicken and serve with lemon wedges, scattered olives and oregano stems.

Cook’s Notes n The purpose of the salt is to draw out the water from the skin so it will brown and crisp up well. n When cutting a wedge of lemon, I always trim the ends off so there is a little flat part for your fingers to hold. It just makes squeezing a wedge easier.

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8 cups cauliflower, cut in bite sized pieces, no stalk (see Cook’s Notes) 2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more to taste 1½ ounces unsalted butter, at room temperature ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons finely minced parsley, divided 1. Put the cauliflower in a saucepan and add about 6 cups hot tap water until it is just below the cauliflower.

2. Add the 2 tablespoons salt and bring to a boil, then turn down to a good simmer and cook until a sharp knife enters easily, about 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Strain the cauliflower into a sieve and give a good shake then tip the florets out evenly onto a dry dish towel to air dry for 5 minutes. This rest makes for a creamy mash rather than a watery one.

4. Gather up the corners of the towel and transfer the florets to a food processer (not a blender). Add the butter and black pepper, and process until you have a light smooth mash.

5. Return the mash to the saucepan you cooked the cauliflower in and set over a low heat, stirring occasionally until it is hot and you are ready to serve it.

6. Add 1½ tablespoons of parsley and salt to taste (I used ½ teaspoon).

7. Transfer to a warm bowl and serve from that. Use the reserved parsley to scatter over the top as garnish and some on the chicken, if desired.

Cook’s Notes n Buy 2 heads of cauliflower and cut off florets until you have 8 cups. The remainder can be kept wrapped airtight in a chill drawer for other uses. n Don’t cover the cauliflower (or any vegetable) with extra water as the flavor will wash away. n If you are using Morton’s kosher salt, decrease the amount to 1½ tablespoons, as I think it tastes saltier than some other brands. n Hopefully you have a pepper grinder since preground pepper is a poor substitute. I know from testing that my pepper grinder takes 20 twists to make 1 teaspoon of ground pepper and therefore 10 twists for ½ teaspoon, etc. It’s a useful trick! n Any leftovers are delicious for breakfast or brunch reheated and topped with an egg.

Maroon Olive Butter MAKES 1½ CUPS (8 TO 10 SERVINGS)

4 ounces (8 tablespoons or 1 stick) unsalted butter, at warm room temperature 6 ounces Kalamata olives, pitted and chopped to make ½ cup 4 teaspoons minced Italian parsley ¼ teaspoon sea salt or Maldon salt 3 strips lemon zest, minced 1. In a small deep bowl, using a metal balloon whisk, beat the butter for about 1 minute until light and creamy.

2. Add the olives, parsley, salt and lemon zest and beat together well. Set aside unrefrigerated.

ROAST CHICKEN PIECES WITH MAROON OLIVE BUTTER, MASHED CAULIFLOWER WITH PARSLEY AND BUTTER

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DELICATE FLAN 28 real food fall 2021

Delicate Flan

Dried Black Figs with Blue Cheese, Hazelnut and Thyme

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

If I were texting you about this amazing dessert, I would start with OMG. Light, silky, mysteriously scented, I just can’t tell you how excited I was when this innocent little custard was cooked, and I slipped a spoonful in my mouth. It is so delicate you aren’t going to turn it out; just serve it from the cup in which it is cooked.

2 ½ 4 6 2 ½ 1 ¼

cups 2% milk cup sugar strips lemon zest extra large egg yolks teaspoons pure anise extract teaspoon pure almond extract teaspoon pure vanilla extract teaspoon cinnamon (from a cinnamon stick ground in a spice grinder)

1. Position rack in the bottom third of oven and heat to 300°F. Gather 6 (8-ounce) ramekins and set aside.

2. Put the milk, sugar and lemon zest in a small saucepan over moderate heat and warm until there are small bubbles around the edge of the milk.

Remove from the heat and set aside for 20 minutes to infuse the lemon zest.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the yolks, extracts and cinnamon. Strain the warm milk then add to the yolks whisking as you pour. Using a ½ cup measure, pour the custard into the ramekins.

4. Set ramekins in a container (I use a 9 x 13-inch pan) and add hot water to ½-inch deep. Cover the pan with foil just crimped lightly around the edges.

5. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 20 minutes or until the custard is still a little shivery in the middle.

6. Refrigerate for 2 hours, or overnight. The custards will keep for 3 or 4 days in the refrigerator.

MAKES 2 SERVINGS | PHOTO PAGE 20

This is a tantalizing combination of sweet, salty, crunchy and herbal. If you or your partner don’t care for blue cheese, you could substitute a tangy goat cheese. These can be made the day before, brought to room temperature and then finished with the hazelnut.

6 dried black (mission) figs 1 ounce bleu d’Auvergne or other creamy blue cheese 10 toasted whole hazelnuts (includes 4 extra nuts to nibble) fresh thyme sprigs 1. Trim the stalk off the fig and cut in half down the middle. Using your thumb, make each half into a cup.

2. Fill each cup with about 1 to 1½ teaspoons blue cheese and press a hazelnut on top. Scatter on a few leaves of thyme.

3. Serve at room temperature but store any extra covered and refrigerated for about 3 days.

Cook’s Notes n To skin hazelnuts, toast them on a sheet pan at 350°F for 13 minutes. Fold in a kitchen towel and let steam for 5 minutes then, using a circular motion, rub them against each other. Most of the skin should be removed. n To strip the thyme leaves easily, take one stalk and pull off the leaves from the top down. n

n Serving option: Peel a very ripe room temperature

Anjou pear, core dice and spoon on top of the custard.

n u t r i t i o n (p e r s e r v i n g) BABY GREEN PEA SOUP WITH MARJORAM: CALORIES: 180, FAT: 10G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 10 MG, SODIUM: 970 MG, CARB: 18G, FIBER: 5G, SUGAR: 7G, PROTEIN: 7G GARLIC BREAD: CALORIES: 430, FAT: 25G (SAT: 15G), CHOLESTEROL: 60 MG, SODIUM: 770 MG, CARB: 43G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 4G, PROTEIN: 9G GREEN SALAD OF FENNEL, ENDIVE AND ORANGE (WITHOUT DRESSING):

CALORIES: 80, FAT: .5G (SAT: 0G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 80MG , C ARB: 17G , FIBER: 9G , SUGAR: 7G, PROTEIN: 4G WHITE BEER DRESSING: CALORIES: 140, FAT: 14G (SAT: 6G), CHOLESTEROL: 25 MG, SODIUM: 830MG, CARB: 2G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: <1G, PROTEIN: <1G WHITE BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE: CALORIES: 300, FAT: 31G (SAT: 4.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 640 MG, CARB: 15G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: 14G, PROTEIN: 0G

ROAST CHICKEN PIECES WITH MAROON OLIVE BUTTER: CALORIES: 640, FAT: 46G (SAT: 14G), CHOLESTEROL: 230 MG, SODIUM: 1350 MG, CARB 3G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 0G, PROTEIN: 51G MASHED CAULIFLOWER WITH PARSLEY AND BUTTER: CALORIES: 170, FAT: 12G (SAT: 8G), CHOLESTEROL: 30 MG, SODIUM: 590MG, CARB: 14G, FIBER: 6G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 5G

2.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 190 MG, SODIUM: 45 MG, CARB: 20G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: 20G, PROTEIN: 5G DRIED BLACK FIGS WITH BLUE CHEESE, HAZELNUT AND THYME: CALORIES: 180, FAT: 9G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 0MG, SODIUM: 160 MG, CARB: 23G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 20G, PROTEIN: 5G

DELICATE FLAN: C ALORIES: 160, FAT: 6G (SAT:

fall 2021 real food 29

TOM YUM SOUP WITH SHRIMP OR TOFU (SEE RECIPE ON PAGE 36)

Soup’s On

Steaming soup dishes up comforting international flavors

BY ROBIN ASBELL

S

oup is a universal comfort food around the globe. Whether it is creamy, brothy, chunky or smooth, soup crosses all boundaries, ready to spoon up for lunch or dinner. If your soup repertoire has become routine, it’s time to try some new soups that each reflect the flavors of a global cuisine.

Making a delicious soup doesn’t need to take hours, thanks to prepared stocks, canned beans and canned tomatoes. In these soups, the flavors are easily created at home with accessible ingredients. Spanish Chickpea and Chorizo Stew gets a little heat from the sausage. You can also easily customize your homemade soups—enjoy the creamy African Peanut Soup or Thai Tom Yum Soup with just a little heat or add more spice to suit your palate. If you lean toward creamy soups, Beer Cheese Soup is packed with cheesy goodness and spiked with rye croutons.

Italian Creamy Chicken and Orzo Soup is just rich enough to feel decadent, but not so heavy that you can’t eat a big bowl for dinner.

Because soups go well with freshly baked breads, I have included a recipe for Scallion Drop Biscuits. Drop biscuits are made with a softer dough, easy to scoop and “drop” right on the pan, so you don’t have to roll or cut them. The results are tender and laced with perky green scallions for a perfect accompaniment to your soups.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

fall 2021 real food 31

Creamy Chicken and Orzo Soup MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS (12 CUPS)

The Italian flavors in this soup are crowd-pleasers—the combination of tender chicken, orzo and vegetables in a creamy soup is irresistible. This makes a big batch of soup, and if you have leftovers, the pasta will absorb some of the liquids, so just stir in a little stock to make it soup again, then reheat.

12 ounces chicken breast, cooked, shredded (see Cook’s Note) 2 tablespoons butter 1 large onion, chopped 1 large carrot, chopped 2 ribs celery, chopped 1 medium zucchini, sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped ¼ cup all-purpose flour 6 cups chicken stock

1 (15-ounce) can petite diced tomatoes, with juices 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon dried basil ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper 1 cup orzo or riso pasta 1 cup half-and-half 2 cups fresh spinach Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. To cook the chicken, heat the oven to 400°F. Place the breasts on an oiled sheet pan and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part reads 160°F. Cool and chill until time to use.

2. Shred the chicken and reserve. Put on a 2-quart pot of salted water to cook the orzo.

3. In a large pot, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion, carrot, celery, zucchini and garlic.

Sauté for 5 minutes to soften the vegetables.

4. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir until the flour is all moistened and the vegetables are coated. Stir in about 1 cup of stock, stirring well, then stir in the remaining stock, tomatoes, thyme, basil, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to simmer for 10 minutes.

5. Cook the orzo according to package directions, about 9 minutes, and drain.

6. When the vegetables are tender, add the half-and-half and chopped spinach, and stir until the spinach is wilted and bright green. Add the orzo and chicken, and stir frequently until heated through. Serve with Parmesan grated over each bowl.

Cook’s Note: For the chicken, 12 ounces boneless makes about 1½ cups shredded. If you would like to use rotisserie chicken, measure out just this amount for the soup; a whole bird usually yields about 4 cups, so save the remainder for another use.

Scallion Drop Biscuits MAKES 10

A fast way to have warm bread with your soup is to make drop biscuits. These tender, buttery gems are easy—no rolling and cutting—simply scoop the dough right on to the baking sheet.

They are flecked with green bits of scallion for a mild onion flavor that goes well with soup.

1 1 2 ¼ ½

cup unbleached flour cup whole-wheat pastry flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt

¼ ½ ¾ 1

cup (½ stick) chilled unsalted butter cup chopped scallions cup buttermilk large egg

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and heat oven to 400°F. 2. In a large bowl, mix flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Shred cold butter into the flour and toss to coat. Stir in scallions.

3. In a cup, whisk the buttermilk and egg until mixed.

4. Stir the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture, just until all the flour is incorporated.

Use a slightly rounded ¼ cup measure or ice cream scoop to scoop the batter and drop onto the prepared pan. Bake for 15 minutes, until golden.

5. Cool slightly on a rack and serve warm.

32 real food fall 2021

CREAMY CHICKEN AND ORZO SOUP WTH SCALLION DROP BISCUITS

fall 2021 real food 33

SPANISH CHICKPEA AND CHORIZO STEW

Spanish Chickpea and Chorizo Stew MAKES 6 SERVINGS (ABOUT 8 CUPS)

This colorful stew gets a flavor boost from Spanish chorizo, a dry sausage packed with peppery cured pork. Saffron gives it a golden tint and an earthy flavor, redolent of the Mediterranean.

If you haven’t used saffron before, it’s an ancient seasoning comprised of the stigma and styles plucked from the center of a special saffron crocus. It’s expensive, but a little goes a long way.

2 1 1 12

tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil large onion, chopped red bell pepper, chopped ounces chorizo links (aged Spanish kind, not Mexican), sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pinch saffron, crumbled

4 medium potatoes, chopped 4 cups chicken stock 1 (15-ounce) can diced tomatoes, with juices 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup parsley, chopped

1. In a large pot, warm olive oil over medium-high heat and add onions and peppers, and stir for a minute, then add the chorizo, garlic and saffron, and sauté for at least 5 minutes to soften.

2. Add potatoes and stir, then add stock, tomatoes, chickpeas and salt. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.

3. Cover the pot and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a paring knife.

4. Stir in the parsley and serve, or cool and refrigerate, tightly covered, up to 4 days.

34 real food fall 2021

BEER-CHEESE SOUP WITH RYE BREAD CROUTONS

Beer-Cheese Soup with Rye Bread Croutons MAKES 4 SERVINGS (6 CUPS SOUP AND 3 CUPS CROUTONS)

The classic pairing of beer and cheddar makes a soup that harkens back to Germany and its long brewing tradition. The rye bread croutons add some crunch to the creamy, cheesy soup. Be sure to use a lager or other mild, non-hoppy beer. An IPA or other bitter beer will overwhelm the soup.

For the Croutons 3 cups cubed rye bread 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon dried thyme ¼ teaspoon salt For the Soup 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 cups finely chopped onion ½ cup all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 cups chicken broth 12 ounces lager beer, preferably flat 1 cup milk 8 ounces (2 cups) shredded cheddar cheese 1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup chopped chives or scallions 1. Make the croutons. Heat the oven to 350°F. On a sheet pan, place the rye bread cubes.

Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with thyme and salt, then toss to coat. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the bread cubes are toasted and crisp but not too brown. Cool on a rack. If you want to make these ahead of time, they will keep in an airtight container for 1 week.

2. In a large soup pot over medium heat, melt butter. Add onion and sauté until tender but not brown, about 10 minutes.

3. Sprinkle the flour over the contents of the pan and stir in with a wooden spoon or heatsafe spatula to make sure there are no lumps.

Stir over medium heat for a couple of minutes to cook the flour.

4. Stir in the Dijon mustard, then gradually whisk in the chicken broth, beer and milk. Stir frequently until the mixture starts to bubble and thicken. Don’t boil, reduce the heat to low.

5. Whisk in the cheese and salt, until the cheese is melted and smooth. Take off the heat.

6. Serve in bowls, topped with chives and rye croutons.

fall 2021 real food 35

African Peanut Soup with Kale MAKES 4 SERVINGS (6 CUPS)

Peanuts, which are also known as “groundnuts,” are made into a creamy soup or stew in West Africa, and it’s a meatless meal that has all the satisfaction of a meaty one. Peanut butter isn’t just for sandwiches—it makes a rich, hearty soup when blended with vegetable stock and spices.

Simmered with a colorful array of vegetables and chickpeas, this soup delivers the flavor you love, in a bowl. This is delicious with cooked millet or rice, too.

1 1 1 2 ½

tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil large onion, chopped large carrot, thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced cup smooth, unsweetened peanut butter 2 cups vegetable stock 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon cayenne 1 (15-ounce) can petite diced tomatoes and juice 1 (15-ounce) can garbanzo beans, drained 2 cups kale, chopped ½ teaspoon salt Hot sauce, to taste

1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and carrot, and sauté over medium heat until soft and golden, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for a few minutes more, stirring.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the peanut butter and a little of the vegetable stock to make a completely smooth paste. Blend the rest of the vegetable stock into the mixture.

3. Add the paprika, cumin and cayenne to the onion mixture, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the peanut butter mixture, the tomatoes, beans, kale and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil and reduce to a low simmer. Cover and cook for about 10 minutes, and season to taste with salt and hot sauce, if desired.

Tom Yum Soup with Shrimp or Tofu MAKES 4 SERVINGS (ABOUT 6 CUPS) | PHOTO ON PAGE 30

The spicy, sour and salty flavors of Thai food are balanced in this soup, with a hint of chili, a dash of fish sauce and a dose of tangy lime. It can be prepared with shrimp and fish sauce or made vegan or vegetarian with tofu and soy sauce. For a more filling meal, serving it over a spoonful of warm, cooked rice is delicious.

4 1 1 4 2 2 1

cups vegetable stock teaspoon red curry paste large carrot, chopped ounces shiitake mushroom, sliced large red jalapeños, chopped cloves garlic, chopped tablespoon fresh ginger, chopped

2 tablespoons fish sauce ¼ cup fresh lime juice, and zest pared off 1 pound large shrimp or firm tofu ½ cup fresh Thai or regular basil, shredded cooked rice for serving, if desired

1. In a large pot, combine the stock and curry paste, mashing the paste to incorporate. Bring to a boil, then add the carrot, mushrooms, jalapeños, garlic, ginger, fish sauce or soy sauce, and the strip of zest from the lime, reserving the juice.

2. Bring to a boil and cover, then simmer for 10 minutes, until the carrots are very tender.

3. Stir in the lime juice and shrimp or tofu, and bring to a boil again, then reduce to simmer gently until the shrimp are pink, about 5 minutes, or the tofu is heated through.

4. Serve with cooked rice if desired, and sprinkle with shredded basil. n 36 real food fall 2021

nutrition (p e r s e r v i n g) CREAMY CHICKEN AND ORZO SOUP: CALORIES: 330, FAT: 14G (SAT: 5 G) , C H O L E S T E R O L : 3 5 M G , SODIUM: 990MG, CARB: 39G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 7G, PROTEIN: 14G SCALLION DROP BISCUITS: PER BISCUIT: CALORIES: 140, FAT: 6G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 30 MG, SODIUM: 280MG, CARB: 2 1G , F I B ER : 2 G , S U G A R : 1G , PROTEIN: 4G SPANISH CHICKPEA AND CHORIZO STEW: CALORIES: 360, FAT: 14G (SAT: 3G), CHOL E S T EROL : 6 0 MG , SODIUM: 1220MG, CARB: 43 G, FIBER: 7G, SUGAR: 7G, PROTEIN: 19G BEER-CHEESE SOUP WITH RYE BREAD CROUTONS: CALORIES: 740, FAT: 47G (SAT: 24G), CHOLESTEROL: 110 MG, SODIUM: 2250MG , C ARB: 52 G, FIBER: 5G, SUGAR: 10G, PROTEIN: 23G BEER-CHEESE SOUP WITHOUT CROUTONS (SOUP ONLY): CALORIES: 560, FAT: 39G (SAT: 22G), CHOLESTEROL: 110MG, SODIUM: 1810MG, CARB: 29G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 8G, PROTEIN: 19G RYE BREAD CROUTONS: CALORIES: 180, FAT: 9G (SAT: 1 . 5 G) , C H O L E S T ER O L : 0 M G , SODIUM: 430MG, CARB: 23G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 4G AFRICAN PEANUT SOUP WITH KALE: CALORIES: 370, FAT: 22G (SAT: 3 . 5 G), CHOL E S T ER OL : 0MG , SODIUM: 1070MG, CARB: 34G, FIBER: 10G, SUGAR: 11G, PROTEIN: 15G TOM YUM SOUP WITH SHRIMP: CALORIES: 120, FAT: 1.5G (SAT: 0G), CHOL E S T EROL : 145MG , SODIUM: 1930MG, CARB: 9G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 4G, PROTEIN: 17G TOM YUM SOUP WITH TOFU: CALORIES: 140, FAT: 5G (SAT: 1G), CHOLESTEROL: 0MG, SODIUM: 1320MG, CARB: 9G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 4G, PROTEIN: 14G

AFRICAN PEANUT SOUP WITH KALE

fall 2021 real food 37

38 real food fall 2021

Dinner is

Ready

Batch cooking is easier when someone else does the planning

T

he gratification of batch cooking, or meal prep, can be either instant or delayed. The task-oriented may find immediate satisfaction in spending a few busy Sunday-night hours in service of five weeknight meals—chopping and jarring vegetables, marinating meats, whipping up condiments. Or, for those who find cooking pointless without something to eat right away, maybe there’s at least some acknowledgment of how a two-hour bulk round of dicing, boiling and baking trades off in simple, 10-or-so-minute parcels of kitchen time each evening, using ingredients you bought in moments of grand design rather than after-work expediency.

In either case, “Batch Cooking” serves as your comprehensive guide so you can prep and cook your weeknight dinners in less than two hours. The book of recipes, devised by food writer Keda Black, covers what is perhaps the hardest part of batch cooking: the planning. Inside, you’ll find 13 weeks of meticulously staged itineraries, which take you from the grocery store to the advance prep to the weeknight rollout. Getting organized means you can make life easier and provide a home-cooked meal every day, however simple, instead of resorting to ready meals, frozen foods or ordering takeout, says Black.

Here, we’re providing a one-week sample—a “menu,” to use Black’s term.

This slate of meals (for prep on Sunday and quick execution Monday through Friday) deploys easy-to-find autumnal foods. A few tips from the book: Each menu serves four people, so scale up or down from there. Use glass jars rather than plastic containers when possible, since glass lasts longer. And for storage options, Black recommends roughly 15 containers in three sizes per menu: 1¼ cups, 3 cups and 6 cups. After that, relish your proactivity and enjoy stove-side bliss in the week ahead. —erik tormoen

Menu

Week of Meals

TIMING: 1 HOUR 30 MINUTES IN THE KITCHEN MONDAY

Beef stew with potatoes and salad TUESDAY

Caesar salad with garlic bread WEDNESDAY

Spicy chickpeas, tomatoes and spinach with rice THURSDAY

Tagliatelle with beef sauce, sun-dried tomatoes and spinach FRIDAY

Squash and sweet potato soup with garlic bread

fall 2021 real food 39

Sunday 1

3

Advance Preparation 20 MINUTES

At the end of each step, follow the advice for storing the food you have prepared. n Take the butter out of the refrigerator to soften it. n Scrub the squash. Wash and drain the parsley. Peel the carrots, potatoes and sweet potatoes. n Cut the carrots, sweet potatoes and squash into large cubes. n Wash the potatoes. Cut into large cubes and immerse in cold water (to prevent browning). Store in a container and refrigerate. n Wash and drain the salad. Wrap in a dish towel and refrigerate. n Peel the garlic and onions. Slice the onions thinly. Separate the parsley leaves from the stalks. Store in a container or dish towel and refrigerate. Keep the stalks.

2 Garlic Bread 15 MINUTES

PREHEAT THE OVEN TO 300°F. THE GARLIC BUTTER

Blend a third of the parsley in a food processor with 2 grated garlic cloves and the softened butter.

THE BAGUETTES

Halve the baguettes, then cut notches around 1-inch deep in each half. Spread herb butter in each gap. Wrap the baguette halves two by two in baking parchment and tie with string. Put one of the wrapped baguettes in the freezer. Bake the other one in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes. Leave to cool, open the bag, separate the slices and store them in the paper or in a container.

Store in the cupboard.

40 real food fall 2021

In less than two hours, you can set yourself up for a delicious week of easy autumnal meals— just follow these steps.

5

Soup

Stew

Heat the saucepan for the soup over a medium heat, add the sweet potatoes, one carrot and the squash cut into cubes, stir and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add water to cover, 2 stock cubes and almost all of the parsley stalks. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 25 minutes over a low heat.

Add the remaining half of the parsley leaves to the soup and blend, adding the remaining milk. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Allow the soup to cool. Store in a container and place in the freezer.

THE STEW

25 MINUTES

4 Chickpeas 10 MINUTES

THE ONIONS

Take out a large saucepan for the soup, a skillet or sauté pan for the chickpea (garbanzo) dish and a casserole dish (Dutch oven) for the stew. Pour 3 tablespoons of oil into the dish and add the onions with a pinch of salt. Cook over a mediumlow heat for 6 to 7 minutes. Divide the onions among the three pans: a third for the soup, a third for the chickpeas and the remaining third in the casserole dish.

THE TOMATOES AND CHICKPEAS

Heat a frying pan over a medium heat, add 2 grated garlic cloves, stir for 1 minute, add 2 teaspoons of Indian spice mix, season with salt and stir again. Add 2 tins of tomatoes, stir, crushing the tomatoes with the wooden spoon if they are whole. Add the drained chickpeas, lower the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes. Allow to cool. Store in a container and refrigerate.

20 MINUTES

In the casserole dish (Dutch oven) put the meat, 7 anchovy fillets, 5 grated garlic cloves, 2 tins of tomatoes and the tomato purée, a pinch of sugar, 3 sprigs of thyme or oregano, the remaining parsley stalks, two-thirds of the olives and 1 carrot cut into cubes. Cover and bring to a simmer on the stove then put in the oven for 3 to 4 hours, lowering the temperature to 275°F. (You can forget about it and do something else meanwhile as it needs no intervention.) It is done when the meat is tender. Allow to cool completely. Store in a casserole dish or container and refrigerate.

THE BEEF SAUCE

Take a quarter of this cooked stew, chop it with the knife along with the sun-dried tomatoes, the remaining olives and a handful of parsley.

Store in a container and refrigerate.

6 Caesar Dressing 5 MINUTES

Break an egg into the food processor bowl, add a grated garlic clove, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, 2 anchovy fillets, 1 teaspoon mustard and onethird of the remaining parsley. Blend in the food processor, then gradually add, with blender still running, scant cup olive oil mixed with 1 tablespoon oil from the anchovies. No food processor or blender? Use a whisk, leaving aside the anchovies; chop the anchovies very finely and add them to the dressing. Season with pepper. Store in a container and refrigerate. Use a peeler to shave off Parmesan strips; store in a separate container and refrigerate.

Shopping Vegetables, General fruits and herbs groceries 3 medium-sized sweet potatoes 1 large seasonal lettuce 1 small squash (2 pounds 3 ounces) 10 garlic cloves 2 carrots 5 onions 1 lemon 1 large bunch of flat-leaf parsley 2 pounds 4 ounces potatoes

Frozen foods

2 pounds 4 ounces frozen spinach (If you don’t like spinach, substitute with arugula.)

Baked goods 2 baguettes

Chilled produce

3 pounds 5 ounces beef: chuck steak and/ or shin of beef (a little more if it’s on the bone), sliced 4¾ cups (40 ounces) whole milk 2 ounces Parmesan 10½ ounces Greek-style yogurt 3½ ounces butter dozen eggs

4 (14-ounce) cans peeled or chopped tomatoes 2 (14-ounce) cans chickpeas (garbanzos) 3½ ounces sun-dried tomatoes 1 (3½-ounce) jar anchovy fillets (in oil or brine), rinsed well 2 organic vegetable stock cubes 1¼ cups (8½ ounces) basmati rice or long-grain rice 14 ounces tagliatelle 1¼ cups (10 ounces) tomato purée 1 cup (5 ounces) black olives

Storecupboard mustard superfine sugar salt and pepper Indian spice mix (garam masala, curry) olive oil vinegar of your choice coarse salt 3 sprigs dried thyme or oregano

Monday

Prep and Storage

Beef Stew with Potatoes and Salad READY IN 30 MINUTES, INCLUDING 10 MINUTES PREP THE STEW

2 containers about 1¼ cups (10 ounces) 1 container about 3 cups (25 ounces) 4 containers about 6 cups (51 ounces) 1 dish towel or freezer bag 1 food processor 1 hand-held blender baking parchment and string

1 small saucepan 1 mold, diameter 8-10 inches 1 oven dish 1 large saucepan 1 skillet or sauté pan 1 casserole dish (Dutch oven)

Reheat the stew over a medium-low heat.

THE POTATOES

Drain the refrigerated potatoes, put in a saucepan and cover well with cold water and some coarse salt. Bring to a medium boil and cook for 20 to 25 minutes until tender. Serve the stew with the potatoes and side salad.

fall 2021 real food 41

Tuesday

Wednesday

Caesar Salad with Garlic Bread

Spicy Chickpeas, Tomatoes and Spinach with Rice

THE EGGS

THE RICE

Put 4 eggs (or 8 if you’re really hungry) into a saucepan, cover with water, bring to a boil and cook for 4 minutes. Remove the eggs, rinse in cold water and remove the shell.

Tear the salad leaves and arrange in a bowl.

Measure the quantity of rice in a glass and heat in a saucepan with 1½ times its volume of water and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to minimum, close tightly with a lid and cook for 11 minutes. Remove the lid, stir gently with a fork and place a clean dish towel over the rice.

FINISHING THE SALAD

THE CHICKPEAS

READY IN 20 MINUTES, INCLUDING 10 MINUTES PREP

THE SALAD

READY IN 25 MINUTES, INCLUDING 10 MINUTES PREP

Drizzle the salad with the dressing, toss well and add the eggs, halved, a few anchovies and strips of Parmesan (save some for Thursday). Eat with the garlic bread.

Reheat the chickpea (garbanzo) mixture. When it’s hot, add two-thirds of the defrosted spinach, stir and cook until heated through. Sprinkle with parsley.

FOR WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY

THE YOGURT

Take the spinach out of the freezer and put in the refrigerator to defrost.

42 real food fall 2021

Mix the Greek-style yogurt with a good pinch of Indian spice mix and serve the chickpeas and spinach with the yogurt.

Thursday

Tagliatelle with Beef Sauce, Sun-dried Tomatoes and Spinach

READY IN 25 MINUTES, INCLUDING 10 MINUTES PREP THE SAUCE

Friday

Potato Soup with Garlic Bread READY IN 25 MINUTES, INCLUDING 5 MINUTES PREP

Heat the oven to 375°F and bake the garlic bread for 20 minutes. In the meantime, reheat the soup. Sprinkle with parsley.

Serve the soup with the bread. n

Reheat the beef sauce and add the remaining spinach.

THE PASTA

Boil the tagliatelle for the time stated on the packet in boiling salted water. Drain and pour into the beef sauce. Stir well and serve with the strips of Parmesan.

FOR FRIDAY

Take the soup and garlic bread out of the freezer and defrost in the refrigerator.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “BATCH COOKING” BY KEDA BLACK © 2019 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM HARDIE GRANT BOOKS. PHOTOS BY PIERRE JAVELLE.

fall 2021 real food 43

FARFALLE WITH BROCCOLI RABE PESTO, FRIED SALAMI AND BURST TOMATOES (SEE RECIPE ON PAGE 48)

44 real food fall 2021

That’s

Amore!

From a classic ragù to the perfect brined pork chop, these comforting Italian recipes are buonissimo

W

hen people think of comfort food, it’s no wonder they often picture a classic Italian-American feast. Huge platters of pasta smothered in a rich red sauce. Towers of braised meats. Garlic bread still steaming from the oven.

Tumblers of red wine topped up and polished off and topped up again, and your nonna making sure you’re eating enough because you’re looking too thin these days.

Chef Joey Campanaro’s cookbook, “Big Love Cooking,” gives you a seat at the table with his Italian family in East Philadelphia. In 2006, he opened Little Owl in Greenwich Village, New York, a tiny neighborhood restaurant famous for its meatball sliders and pork chop with butter beans (page 50). Enjoy these recipes from the book that deliver huge flavor—just make sure to invite some family and friends.

fall 2021 real food 45

Campanaro Family Lasagna MAKES 8 SERVINGS

My father loved ricotta cheese—so much that even if we were having rigatoni (and pretty much no one puts ricotta on rigatoni), there would always be a little on the side just for him. And he loved ricotta ravioli (especially the frozen kind from P&S Ravioli), ricotta-filled manicotti and, of course, lasagna. My seat at the dinner table was beside him, followed by my brother Michael, my sister Michele and my brother Louie. My mom sat directly across from him, perched at the other end of the table. And I just loved to watch him eat. Sometimes, when all other memories fall away, you are left with a singular memory that sums it all up: My father loved ricotta. And this was his favorite lasagna.

For the Béchamel Sauce 2 bay leaves 1 small whole yellow onion, unpeeled 7 fresh cloves 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour 4 cups whole milk kosher salt, to taste pinch of dried nutmeg For the Ragù 1 medium carrot, peeled and roughly chopped 1 celery stalk, roughly chopped 1 small onion, ends trimmed, peeled, and roughly chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil, reserve 1 teaspoon plus more for drizzling 5¼ ounces ground beef 5¼ ounces ground pork 5¼ ounces ground veal ¼ teaspoon cumin kosher salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 garlic clove, minced ¾ cup red wine, such as Chianti 1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley 1 cup water For the Ricotta Mixture 1 egg, lightly beaten 32 ounces fresh whole-milk ricotta cheese kosher salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper ½ cup finely grated pecorino cheese ½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil leaves 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes 46 real food fall 2021

1 pound fresh lasagna, store-bought (or dry, prepared according to package instructions) ½ cup finely grated fresh Parmesan cheese For the Béchamel 1. Attach the bay leaves to the onion, using the cloves like pushpins to hold them in place. Set aside.

2. In a small skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the flour and whisk until absorbed and smooth, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a small bowl and place in your refrigerator to get cold. (Don’t skip this step—it will keep your sauce lump-free once it’s added to the warmed milk.)

3. In a large, deep saucepan over medium-low heat, add the milk and the onion, and slowly bring it to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and let cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, about 15 minutes. Remove the onion and discard. Add the cold butter and flour mixture to the hot milk and use a whisk to combine until the milk begins to thicken and can coat the back of a wooden spoon, about 1 minute.

4. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a heat-proof bowl and strain the béchamel, using your wooden spoon to push it through the strainer and into the bowl. Add a pinch of kosher salt and the nutmeg, and stir to combine. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it down so that it kisses the top of the sauce, preventing a skin from forming. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

For the Ragù 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, add the carrot, celery and onion, and pulse until finely chopped. Set aside.

2. In a large, deep skillet over high heat, warm 3 tablespoons of the olive oil until it shimmers. Add the beef, pork, veal, cumin, a generous pinch of kosher salt and a few

grinds of pepper, and cook until the meat is browned, using the back of a wooden spoon to really get in there and break it up, 5 to 6 minutes.

3. Once the meat is browned, use your wooden spoon to move it to the side of your pan, making an empty spot in the center of your skillet. Add the garlic and cook until lightly toasted, about 30 seconds—it cooks very quickly, so be alert!

Right when the garlic starts toasting, add the reserved carrots, celery and onions, and give the whole thing a stir. Stir continuously, moving it around, for about 30 seconds.

4. Add the red wine, entire contents of the tomato can, parsley and 1 cup water.

Lower the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, using a wooden spoon to stir it every now and then, until it thickens, about 40 minutes. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if you think it needs it.

5. Heat the oven to 350°F. Butter the bottom and the sides of a 9x13-inch baking dish and set aside. Drizzle a baking sheet with the remaining 1 teaspoon of olive oil and set aside.

For the Ricotta Mixture 1. Crack the egg into a large bowl, add the ricotta, a generous pinch of kosher salt, a few grinds of pepper, the pecorino, Parmesan, basil, parsley and red pepper flakes. Use a wooden spoon to mix until smooth and creamy—really take about 1 minute to just mix. Add the cooled, reserved béchamel sauce to this creamy ricotta mixture to make your life of lasagna layering even easier. Set aside.

2. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil and add the lasagna sheets.

Cook according to the package directions, stirring them frequently so that they don’t stick together. Lift them out of the pasta water with tongs (letting excess pasta water drip off) and transfer them to the prepared baking sheet, laying them flat and drizzling with a bit more oil. (There is nothing worse than stuck-together lasagna sheets—except stuck-together crespelle.)

3. In the prepared baking dish, arrange 4 pasta sheets vertically to cover the entire bottom of the dish and ladle a thin layer of the ricotta-béchamel mixture over the top, followed by a thin layer of ragù.

Repeat the layering process with pasta, ricotta-béchamel mixture and ragù until

“Sometimes, when all other memories fall away, you are left with a singular memory that sums it all up: My father loved ricotta. And this was his favorite lasagna.”

CAMPANARO FAMILY LASAGNA

you have used up all of your components, ending with a final layer of ricotta-béchamel. Spread the top with the Parmesan.

4. Bake the lasagna, uncovered, until beautifully bubbly and brown on top, 45 minutes.

Let rest for 30 minutes before serving so that the sauce sets and doesn’t spill out when you slice it and serve it to your dad.

Allow any leftover lasagna to cool completely in the baking dish before transferring to

an airtight container and storing in your refrigerator for up to 2 days. Alternatively, if you have a lot of lasagna left over, just leave it in the baking dish and wrap tightly with plastic wrap before storing.

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Farfalle with Broccoli Rabe Pesto, Fried Salami and Burst Tomatoes

Basil Pesto

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS | PHOTO PAGE 44

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP PESTO

Farfalle (“butterflies” in Italian) is one of my favorite pasta shapes to pair with a clingy, fresh pesto sauce. For my broccoli rabe pesto, you start with my traditional basil pesto, and add blanched and puréed broccoli rabe for an even brighter green version (it gets so green that it almost looks fake!). The addition of salty, fried salami adds texture and a subtle porky flavor that I love. Dollops of fresh ricotta cheese to honor my dad finish this dish. Growing up, he would always add a dollop of fresh ricotta to his pasta (I am more of a grated pecorino guy) and the older I got, the more I figured he was onto something.

When it melts into the pasta, it’s kind of big love dreamy. This pesto can be made 2 days in advance. Store in an airtight container in your refrigerator.

6 ounces fresh broccoli rabe, ends trimmed ¾ cup basil pesto (recipe right) 1 teaspoon plus pinch kosher salt, divided 1 tablespoon butter 12 grape or cherry tomatoes (a variety of colors and sizes to please the eye) 6 ounces pork salami or soppressata, diced, or deli salami, thinly sliced into strips 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 pound farfalle ¼ cup finely grated fresh Parmesan cheese 4 ounces fresh whole-milk ricotta cheese extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1. Prepare an ice water bath by filling a large bowl (preferably metal) with cold water and ice. Set aside.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the broccoli rabe and boil until it turns a bright green color and is tender, 1 to 2 minutes.

Using tongs, transfer the broccoli rabe to the ice water bath and let cool for 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and roughly chop. Set aside.

3. In the work bowl of your food processor, prepare the Basil Pesto (recipe right). Add the chopped broccoli rabe and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt, and purée until smooth, scraping down the sides to fully incorporate the mixture, about 1 minute.

4. In a small skillet over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add the tomatoes and a pinch of kosher salt and cook until all the tomatoes burst open, leaking their juices into the pan, with smaller toma48 real food fall 2021

toes bursting sooner, larger ones later.

Not everyone always gets to the party at the same time, but they’ll pop when ready, 4 to 6 minutes. Set aside.

5. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add the salami and the olive oil and cook, stirring now and then, until the salami is crispy and that beautiful fatty pork smell hits your nose, 11 to 12 minutes.

Transfer to a small bowl and set aside. Give the skillet a wipe to remove excess oil and set aside. (You’ll use this same skillet to dress your farfalle.)

6. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the farfalle and cook according to the directions on the package. Before draining, use a glass measuring cup to scoop out about ¼ cup of pasta water (or a little more—better to have it in case you need it) and set aside.

7. Using a colander, drain the farfalle, shaking it to remove any visible pasta water. Transfer the farfalle directly into the now-empty and wiped-out skillet over low heat, add the broccoli rabe pesto, the Parmesan and the reserved pasta water, and use a wooden spoon to gently and evenly coat the farfalle in creamy green pesto, alternating mixing and folding, about 1 minute. Add more pasta water, a little bit at a time (about 1 tablespoon), if necessary.

8. Transfer these gorgeously green butterflies to your favorite serving platter and serve family style, topped with the reserved salami, the burst tomatoes and dollops of fresh ricotta. (Oh, my goodness!

So nice! Like a lemon ice!) Finish with drizzles of extra-virgin olive oil and some fresh grinds of pepper. Serve immediately.

1 ½ ¼ 1

tablespoon olive oil teaspoon unsalted butter cup pine nuts cup packed fresh basil leaves 2 small garlic cloves ¼ cup finely grated fresh Parmesan cheese ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon plus pinch kosher salt, divided freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. In a large skillet over medium heat, combine the olive oil, butter and pine nuts, and toast (see Cook’s Note) until fragrant and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

2. To the work bowl of your food processor, add the toasted pine nuts, basil leaves, garlic, Parmesan, extra-virgin olive oil, a generous pinch of kosher salt and several grinds of black pepper, and spin until it makes a thick, smooth, bright green purée, about 45 seconds. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides and give it another pulse to really incorporate it. If not using immediately, reserve in an airtight container for up to 1 week or divvy up the pesto in ice cube trays and freeze, taking out small portions as needed.

Cook’s Note: While fresh basil pesto is a quick condiment to put together, pine nuts are expensive! Follow these tips when toasting them to protect your investment and prevent burning: n Always use a combination of a tiny nugget (½ teaspoon) of butter and olive oil. The milk solids will break down in the butter and attach to the pine nuts, giving them a really nice nutty flavor. n Don’t walk away from the pan.

Lift the pan and shake while you stir … you will alternate from hot to cool and toast them evenly.

Philly Cheesecake with Blueberry Agave Sauce MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Growing up, my mom would say, “It’s not cheesecake if it doesn’t have cracks on the top.” And truly, I am all for the glory of imperfection in nature and in cooking (you’ll notice that my pancakes aren’t perfectly round, my breadsticks aren’t uniformly cut and achieving a gorgeous burst of flavor surprise from an imperfectly torn, large piece of herb in a salad comes from not wanting to be too perfect). But, I want my cheesecake smooth, rich, luscious and crack-free. Sorry, Mom. This recipe calls for a water bath so that the center stays moist and the edges don’t brown and dry, which prevents cracks from forming. It’s old-school mom-mom Philadelphia-style cheesecake meets professional chef moves.

P.S. If I had to choose a last supper, it would be spaghetti and clams, Jonathan Waxman’s roasted chicken (from his book “Italian, My Way”) and this Philadelphia-style (sorry, New York) cheesecake for dessert.

16 3x5-inch graham crackers ⅛ teaspoon cinnamon 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 2 (8-ounce) packages Philadelphia brand cream cheese, at room temperature 16 ounces sour cream, at room temperature 1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon lemon zest 4 eggs, at room temperature Blueberry Agave Sauce (recipe right), for serving 1. Heat the oven to 275°F. Use your hands to butter the bottom and sides of a 10-inch springform pan. Wrap the outside of the pan, including the bottom, in a double layer of aluminum foil. Set aside.

2. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the graham crackers and cinnamon and process until very fine. Add the melted butter and pulse until it forms a fine crumb mixture. Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan and, at first, use your hands to press it down, creating a layer of crust that climbs up the sides of the pan. Once it is evenly spread, use the bottom of a

PHILLY CHEESECAKE WITH BLUEBERRY AGAVE SAUCE

measuring cup (or a juice glass) to press it down to make a firm base. Bake until deep brown and set, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely at room temperature.

3. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add the cream cheese and sour cream, and beat on medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Add the sugar, vanilla, lemon juice and lemon zest, and continue beating until creamy and well combined, 1 to 2 minutes. Stop and use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl.

4. Now, let’s talk: One at a time, crack an egg right into the mixture and, on medium speed, beat until the egg is fully incorporated, about 1 minute, before continuing with the next egg, repeating cracking and incorporating until you have added all of your eggs. Or, if you are a little nervous about getting eggshell in the mix, crack them, one at a time, into a small bowl, lightly beat, and add to the mixture, still making sure each egg is incorporated before continuing with the remaining eggs. Be you.

5. Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan, giving the pan a tap or two on your countertop to release any air bubbles. Using an offset spatula, smooth out the top.

6. Fill a roasting pan 1-inch deep with hot water. Place the springform pan in the roasting pan and bake until just set—it should have a little jiggle to it when you shake the pan, about 1 hour. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before refrigerating for a minimum of 4 hours or

overnight. To serve the next day, wrap the entire cheesecake tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate up to 2 days.

7. Remove from the refrigerator just before serving with generous spoons of Blueberry Agave Sauce.

Blueberry Agave Sauce MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

2 cups fresh blueberries 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon unrefined, organic agave nectar 2 cinnamon sticks 1. In a small saucepan over low heat, combine the blueberries, lemon juice, agave nectar and cinnamon sticks. Cook until the blueberries release their juices, bubble up, and soften, 10 to 12 minutes. Set aside to cool, removing the cinnamon sticks before transferring to an airtight container to chill before serving with Philly Cheesecake.

Tip: Salting Pasta Water Your pasta water should be “salty like the sea,” that old kitchen adage. As a guideline, I recommend 2 tablespoons fine sea salt per 1 pound pasta.

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LITTLE OWL PORK CHOP WITH PARMESAN BUTTER BEANS

Little Owl Pork Chop with Parmesan Butter Beans MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Little Owl is a destination for my pork chop. People come from all over the world to experience this huge, tender, scrumptious piece of meat in our tiny room (and it’s been on our menu from the day we opened our doors!). The success of the dish begins with the quality of the pork and just three ingredients in the marinade: extra-virgin olive oil, fennel and garlic, each working in harmony to draw out every bit of juicy goodness in your pork chop. And the beauty of this recipe is that you can get a great caramelization on a small stove top griddle before finishing the pork in the oven. If you prefer to use canned beans (butter beans or cannellini beans work well), go for it! Just thoroughly rinse them to get as much salt off them as you can. When it’s time to heat them through, substitute ¼ cup chicken stock for the bean liquid in the method.

Yes, you’ll miss out on the hint of smoky ham hock, which has an incomparable depth of flavor, but that’s life. I still want you to have an alternative. And that pop of pickled fennel in the salad complements the fennel seed in the marinade. It’s such a lovely flavor surprise and makes the Little Owl Pork Chop stand apart from the rest. Don’t skip it! Note: This recipe calls for marinating the pork, preparing the pickled fennel and soaking the beans overnight.

50 real food fall 2021

1 tablespoon fennel seeds 4 large garlic cloves, minced ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 4 (14-ounce) pork rib chops, 1½ inches thick 1 pound dried, large white beans, such as gigante, soaked overnight and drained, or one 15½ ounce can white beans, such as butter beans or cannellini, thoroughly rinsed and drained (see recipe intro) 1 pound smoked ham hock 1 medium carrot, halved crosswise 1 stalk celery, halved crosswise 1 small onion, ends trimmed, peeled, and halved 1 large pinch the Harrison Spice Mix (right) freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ cup chicken stock (if using canned beans), homemade or storebought ¼ cup finely grated fresh Parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh Italian parsley 4 ounces dandelion greens, trimmed (about 2 packed cups) 7 or 8 slices Pickled Fennel (right) 2 tablespoons Sherry Shallot Vinaigrette (right) Maldon sea salt flakes, to taste 1. In a small bowl, combine the fennel seeds, garlic and ¼ cup of the olive oil.

Place the pork chops in a large glass baking dish and rub the garlic-fennel mixture over the pork chops. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, sealing it like a package and refrigerate overnight.

2. In a large saucepan, place the beans, ham hock, carrot, celery and onion, and cover with 3 inches of water. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the beans are tender, about 1½ hours. Let the beans cool in the liquid, then drain, reserving ¼ cup of the cooking liquid and discarding the vegetables and ham hock. Set the beans aside.

3. Heat the oven to 375°F. 4. Prepare a stove top grill pan by brushing it with a splash or two of neutral oil (alternately, splash the corner of a clean kitchen towel with a bit of oil and rub it all

“People come from all over the world to experience this huge, tender, scrumptious piece of meat in our tiny room.”

For the Harrison Spice Mix 2 cups kosher salt 2 tablespoons Madras curry powder 2 tablespoons cayenne pepper 1. Combine all the ingredients and store in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Just a pinch or two is dynomite!

slices in the vinegar mixture, placing a small plate on top to hold them down.

Transfer to your refrigerator to chill overnight. Transfer the entire contents to a glass jar and store in your refrigerator for up to 1 month.

For the Sherry Shallot Vinaigrette MAKES ¼ CUP

For the Pickled Fennel 2 cups rice wine vinegar ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes ½ fennel bulb, outer layers removed, tough end trimmed

1. In a large bowl, combine the vinegar and red pepper flakes. Using a mandoline, lay the fennel, cut-side down, against the blade and thinly slice—little pieces may break away as you shave it; that’s great—save them and toss them in, too. Submerge the fennel

1. In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, honey, mustard and shallot, and whisk to blend. Slowly add the oil and whisk until combined. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate indefinitely until ready to use. Once opened, it will keep for up to 2 weeks.

over the grill pan). Preheat over medium heat for 5 minutes.

5. Generously season the pork chops with sprinkles of the Harrison Spice Mix and grinds of pepper, making sure to aggressively season any layer of fat that may be around the pork (the fat will melt, and some seasoning will fall off on the grill pan).

6. Place the pork chops on the grill pan and grill for 2 minutes on one side. Using tongs, carefully flip and grill the other side for 2 minutes more. Transfer to a baking dish and cook until the internal temperature is 145°F, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

7. Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add the beans and the reserved cooking liq-

2 1 1 1 ¼

tablespoons sherry vinegar teaspoon honey teaspoon Dijon mustard small shallot, finely diced cup extra-virgin olive oil

uid (or chicken stock, if using canned beans) and cook over medium-low heat until the beans are warmed through and nicely glazed, about 2 minutes. Stir in the Parmesan and parsley, and continue cooking and stirring until the cheese melts and the beans are thick and creamy, about 2 minutes more. (Canned beans may need an extra 1 to 2 minutes of stirring to reach that thick consistency.) Set aside.

8. In a large bowl, combine the dandelion greens, pickled fennel and vinaigrette. Use your hands to mix well and set aside.

9. Divide the beans among four plates and top each with a pork chop. Place a little mound of the dandelion green salad on top and finish with drizzles of extra-virgin olive oil and a few Maldon sea salt flakes.

Serve immediately and say, “Wowie!” n

n u t r i t i o n (p e r s e r v i n g) CAMPANARO FAMILY LASAGNA: CALORIES: 860, FAT: 47G (SAT: 22G), CHOLESTEROL: 155 MG, SODIUM: 860 MG, CARB: 66G, FIBER: 4G, SUGAR: 17G, PROTEIN: 38G FARFALLE WITH BROCCOLI RABE PESTO, FRIED SALAMI AND BURST TOMATOES: C A L O R I E S : 8 5 0 , FAT: 5 0 G ( S AT: 1 3 G ) , CHOLESTEROL: 50 MG, SODIUM: 1290 MG, CARB: 73G, FIBER: 4G, SUGAR: 3G, PROTEIN: 29G PHILLY CHEESECAKE WITH BLUEBERRY AGAVE SAUCE: CALORIES: 570, FAT: 41G (SAT: 22G), CHOLESTEROL: 195 MG, SODIUM: 270 MG, CARB: 44G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 37G, PROTEIN: 9G LITTLE OWL PORK CHOP WITH PARMESAN BUTTER BEANS: CALORIES: 560, FAT: 40G (SAT: 10G), CHOLESTEROL: 75 MG, SODIUM: 680 MG, CARB: 24G, FIBER: 7G, SUGAR: 1G, PROTEIN: 30G

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “BIG LOVE COOKING” BY JOEY CAMPANARO WITH THERESA GAMBACORTA © 2020 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM CHRONICLE BOOKS. PHOTOS BY CON POULOS.

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THE

REAL

larly has a line out the door, which includes tourists and locals alike.

But his proudest professional accomplishment might just be “Cook Real Hawai’i,” his first cookbook.

“When I first saw the title, I thought, ‘Whoa, that’s a little strong,’” he tells me, leaving behind the clatter of the kitchen to find a quiet seat outside. “But then I realized that the ‘real’ comes from the heart and the effort. It’s about being as honest as possible,” he says.

“You know, there are a lot of ideas of what Hawai’i is out there: There’s the fantasy of Elvis, girls in Waikiki, Mai-Tais on the beach—all that tropical lifestyle,” he continues. “In all realness, the story of Hawai’i involves a lot of turmoil and tragedy; I wanted to tell that story as well, of the people who came before us; the story of my grandparents and others who’ve made this place what it is today.”

Simeon’s grandparents came to Hawai’i in the 1930s as sakadas, migrant workers from the Philippines. They were part of a stream of labor that began in the mid-1800s, when European and American businesses raced to reap as much profit as possible from sugarcane plantations. The Chinese were the first recruits, followed by workers from Japan, Korea, Portugal, Puerto Rico, Spain and even Norway, all brought under the promise of lucrative work. The reality was, by all accounts, far different. The work was brutal and poorly paid, even well after Hawai’i became a U.S. territory in 1900.

What’s more, in the process, the native Hawaiian population was decimated by European-introduced diseases—from an estimated 700,000 before Captain Cook landed in Kaua’i in 1778, there were less than 100,000 by the 1850s. Today, native Hawaiians make up less than 11 percent of the state’s population.

Because of this history, Simeon is careful to make a distinction between Hawaiian cuisine and what he cooks, which he calls “Hawai’i cuisine.” “For me, Hawaiians are royalty,” Simeon says. “I will never be Hawaiian—that’s blood passed down from ancestors and generations who traveled across the Pacific by moon, stars, waves and wind.”

He’s referring to the original settlers— the ones who brought the sugarcane and

Hawai’i Sheldon Simeon dishes on what it truly means to embrace the cuisine of his home islands

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

I

t’s 7 a.m. in Hawai’i and Sheldon Simeon has already battered and fried a few hundred chicken thighs. “We started at 4,” he says, sounding surprisingly cheery.

“That’s how it goes around here.”

“Here” is Tin Roof, the Maui restaurant that’s been a destination since the moment he and his wife, Janice, opened it in 2016.

Simeon’s star has been rising since he appeared on the Bravo network’s “Top Chef ” in 2012, wowing judges Tom Colicchio and Emeril Lagasse with his Filipino-inflected, Hawai’i-born dishes. While he didn’t win the series—nor in his next appearance on the show in 2015—his sense of modesty, warmth and humor earned him the “Fan

52 real food fall 2021

Favorite” title both times.

That personality, combined with clear cooking talent, has earned him star power unusual for a chef based 3,600 miles off the U.S. mainland. Even if you haven’t been to Hawai’i, you have likely seen Simeon on his YouTube show, “Cooking in America,” or doing cooking demos on “IG Live.”

You might have caught him making Spam musubi on “Good Morning America,” or showing Anthony Bourdain how to roast a pig Hawai’i-style on “Parts Unknown.”

Along the way, he’s collected accolades for all the kitchens he’s led in the last decade, including Star Noodle, Migrant and Lineage, a James Beard Award semifinalist for Best New Restaurant in 2019. Meanwhile, Tin Roof—now his one and only—regu-

SIMEON PORTRAIT MARYLANE STUIDIOS

“There are a lot of ideas of what Hawai’i is out there: There’s the fantasy of Elvis, girls in Waikiki, Mai-Tais on the beach—all that tropical lifestyle. In all realness, the story of Hawai’i involves a lot of turmoil and tragedy; I wanted to tell that story.”

bananas, sweet potatoes and ginger, and even brought to Hawai’i from somewhere else; the pigs and chickens, to the then-uninhabthey were made up in a restaurant.” (Hawaiited islands around 400 CE, rowing them ian pizza, for the record, has nothing to across 2,000 miles of the Pacific Ocean from do with Hawaii; it was created by a Greek their base in the Marquesas Islands. “We had restaurateur in Ontario, Canada.) the most amazing host culture,” Simeon says.

Instead, he offers recipes for the dishes “They set up a way of life that rotated around of his childhood, like boiled peanuts or the idea that if you take care of the land, the the Huli-Huli rotisserie chicken his dad land will take care of you,” he says. would make for his volleyball team. He Not only were they expert farmers, covers saimin, a quick noodle soup he ate they also introduced the concepts of pono, for breakfast daily growing up, and the Por“fairness and righteousness,” and aloha, tuguese bean soup his dad would make to “unconditional love and compassion,” that warm up a rainy day. are still in full force today. These sensibilities Many of the dishes are the sort that informed the systems that would ensure that might be included on a plate lunch, a the islands would remain a natural paradise Hawai’i phenomenon offered at casual for generations to come, Simeon believes. spots across the islands. Based on rice and “Because of this we have an incredibly rich mac salad, its main feature is the wide varibase to work from.” ety of mains offered, from garlic shrimp to He includes this history in “Cook Real Filipino adobo, Japanese fried chicken and Hawai’i,” along with recipes that speak to these Korean beef ribs—all of which he includes earliest influencers. Some are direct in their in the book, along with much more. Simlineage, like laulau, a celebratory dish of pork eon revels in this diversity: “There’s no other and cured fish wrapped in taro and ti leaves place in the world that you get this array and cooked in hot coals; others are rooted of cuisines on one place and have it feel so in Hawaiian traditions but have come a long natural,” he enthuses. He likens Hawai’i to way, like the pupus that fill an entire chapter. a salad bowl instead of a melting pot, and Pupu, he explains, is a Hawaiian word that LEFT: PORTRAIT originally referred to OF CHEF SHELDON seashells, but came to SIMEON; RIGHT: SIMEON COOKING mean the sort of snacks WITH HIS FATHER. that might fit in a shell, but served with such generosity that they could easily comprise a meal—which they did in the Hawaiian tradition of communal meals, and still do today. (In Hawaii, he says, “you can have pupus without a party, but you can’t have a party without pupus.”)

Mostly, the focus of the book is on what people eat every day, at home and in casual eateries like Tin Roof, or even the Japanese restaurant that preceded it. That means there are no recipes for pizzas topped with pineapple, or macadamia-crusted anything.

“Don’t get me wrong—macadamia-crusted mahi mahi is delicious, and my kids love Hawaiian pizza,” Simeon says. “But they aren’t dishes that came about in a home.

They didn’t happen because of something

illustrates the idea in dishes like pipikaula, a beef jerky that dates to the 1830s, when King Kamehameha enlisted Mexican cowboys to teach the locals how to care for cattle, as well as Chinese ginger chicken, Portuguese sausage and Okinawan pigs’ feet—all recipes imported from other places that have taken root in Hawai’i.

It took him a while, however, to appreciate the complexity and value of everyday Hawai’i cuisine. “Always, when I was a young exec chef,” he says, thinking back to his early days at Star Noodle, Mala Wailea and Migrant, “I was creating my own dishes, but watching what was going on in the big cities and mimicking them,” he says. “It took a lesson on national TV to humble me.” He’s referring to his final round of “Top Chef,” where he presented a high-concept menu that left the judges scratching their heads. “It made me realize that I should be proud of my roots, and proud to serve Hawai’i food in its entirety—it doesn’t need to be masked or manipulated.”

“Now I’m cooking recipes from my childhood,” he says. He was lucky to have grown up in a family of amazing cooks, he says, from his parents to the aunts and uncles who helped make Simeon family parties legendary. Cooking was ingrained in him at a young age, so much so that when his brother came home from culinary school and told him they’d spent the

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first day chopping onions, he laughed.

“I was like, what? We’ve chopped thousands of onions!” Simeon, who attended Hawaii’s Leeward Community College and later the Maui Culinary Academy, jokes that he followed his brother into culinary school because it looked so easy.

At home, he and his brother were often roped into helping out, whether foraging for pohole—the fiddlehead ferns his mom would turn into a bright, crunchy salad—or playing wingman to his dad, the grill master and expert at turning cheap cuts of beef into hearty soups and juicy steaks. He got to know the Philippines through dishes his parents brought with them, like his mother’s pinakbet, a carefully constructed vegetable braise flavored with ginger and bagoóng isda (a fermented fish paste) or pancit, a stir-fried noodle dish that’s a Filipino staple.

“My palate is always true Filipino,” Simeon says. “I could be cooking Japanese, but the garlic will be very forward; and the fish sauce you’ll know. Always, there’s a lot of acidity—a pop from vinegar or citrus. It’s about layers of bold and umami.”

You can see this clearly in recipes like his beef shank soup, which takes on extra depth with shiitakes and fish sauce, star anise and chilies, or okra salad, where the still-crunchy pods are kept bright and fresh-tasting in a dressing of ginger, garlic and lemon-infused olive oil (one of his favorite tricks to maximize flavor in nearly any dish).

But what comes forward most in “Cook Real Hawai’i” is his omnivorous hunger and appreciation for all the variety that’s been preserved in the island’s cuisine. “A lot of these recipes came from family who wanted to reminisce about food they ate back home, and they didn’t have much; they had to use what was available to them,” he says. “Most of it is simple ingredients you can find at grocery stores anywhere.”

What makes them special, he says, is the stories they carry. “A lot of people, if they were given the opportunities I have had, could tell the same stories, share the same recipes,” he says. Most of them haven’t, however. And so, Simeon has begun the recording.

“The mentality is now about the community,” Simeon says of himself and his current generation of chefs. “We celebrate each other in the culture and the different ethnicities that make up the culture,” he says. “We call it pono—do the right things.” n 54 real food fall 2021

MOCHIKO FRIED CHICKEN

Fried Garlic MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS

1. Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.

2. In a food processor, pulse 8 ounces peeled garlic (about 1½ cups or 25 cloves) until finely minced.

3. Fill a medium-width, deep-sided pot halfway with water and bring to a boil, then turn off the heat. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Transfer the garlic to a sieve and submerge in the hot water, blanching for about 2 minutes.

Remove and dunk the garlic in the ice water until cooled, then drain well and spread evenly onto the lined baking sheet. Bake until the garlic is dry to the touch, 12 to 15 minutes.

4. While the garlic is drying, empty out the pot and dry well. Fill the pot with at least 2 inches of neutral oil, for frying, making sure to leave a few inches of clearance from the top of

the pot. Heat the oil over medium high until it reaches 350°F (use a thermometer).

5. Have the baking sheet lined with paper towels at the ready. Add the garlic and fry until the bubbles begin to subside and the garlic turns golden and rises to the surface, 3 to 4 minutes.

6. Transfer the fried garlic back to the paper towels and let cool completely.

Season generously with kosher salt, then transfer to a sealable container and store in a cool, dry place for up to 3 weeks. Reserve the garlic-flavored frying oil for future use.

Gochujang Aioli MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon gochujang (Korean chili paste), 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 clove grated garlic, and ½ cup mayonnaise with 1 teaspoon water until incorporated.

Mochiko Fried Chicken MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Mochiko chicken is Hawai‘i’s own style of fried chicken, distinct for its use of mochiko (sweet rice flour) in the batter, which lends a pleasant bouncy chew in addition to that classic fried chicken crunch. Depending on who’s cooking (and what recipe they’re using), local mochiko chicken can draw influence from Japanese karaage, Korean dak kang jung, and even a little from Southern fried chicken. ¾ cup mochiko (sweet rice flour) ¼ cup plus ¾ cup cornstarch, divided ½ teaspoon Diamond Crystal (or a good pinch of Morton) kosher salt 2 tablespoons sugar 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons shoyu (soy sauce) 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 2 tablespoons sake 2 tablespoons gochujang (Korean chili paste) 2 pounds boneless, skin-on chicken thighs neutral oil, for deep-frying ¾ cup all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons garlic salt

Su-Mi So Sauce MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

In a small saucepan, stir together 1 tablespoon sake, ¼ cup mirin and ¼ cup sugar. Bring to a boil, cooking until the smell of alcohol goes away and the sauce starts to thicken, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in 1 tablespoon white (shiro) miso until dissolved. Let cool before using.

Salt-Pickled Cabbage MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

1. Core 1 pound green or napa cabbage and cut into 2-inch squares, breaking the layers apart. Place the cabbage in a large bowl and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon Diamond Crystal (or 2 teaspoons Morton) kosher salt, using a spatula or your hands to distribute the salt evenly and massage it into the leaves.

2. Use an inverted plate to cover and

FOR SERVING Cooked rice Gochujang Aioli (recipe below) Su-Miso Sauce (recipe below) ¼ cup furikake (Japanese seasoning, see Editor’s Notes) ½ cup arare (rice crackers), crushed into bite-size pieces 2 tablespoons Fried Garlic (recipe below) chopped scallions Salt-Pickled Cabbage (recipe below) 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the mochiko, ¼ cup of the cornstarch, the salt and sugar. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, shoyu, ginger, sake, gochujang, and 2 tablespoons water. Stir this into the dry ingredients until mixed, then add the chicken and toss thoroughly with your hands to coat. Cover and marinate for at least 4 hours (overnight is best).

2. When you’re ready to fry, remove the marinated chicken from the fridge.

Prepare a wire rack or line a baking sheet with paper towels. Fill a large, heavy-bottomed pot or deep skillet with at least 2 inches of oil, making sure to leave a few

press the cabbage and place a heavy object on top, like a tin can or large stone.

Let sit at room temperature for 1 hour.

Remove the weight and toss the cabbage.

If there are parts of cabbage that haven’t turned slightly translucent, sprinkle them with a little more salt, if desired, and toss again. Replace the weight and let sit for another 30 minutes.

3. Remove the cabbage from the bowl and place in a colander over the sink. Use your hands to squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Don’t rinse it! Once the cabbage has been squeezed, sprinkle on ¼ teaspoon instant dashi powder (such as HonDashi, optional) and toss to coat.

Chill until ready to serve. Keeps for about 1 week in the fridge.

Editor’s Notes: n If furikake seasoning is not available, you could use nori and sesame seeds to provide crunch and an umami note. n To make your own furikake, McCormick

inches of clearance from the pot’s rim.

Heat over medium-high heat until the oil reaches 350°F (use a thermometer), adjusting the heat as needed to maintain temperature.

3. While the oil is heating, in a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, garlic salt and remaining ¾ cup cornstarch. Remove the chicken from the marinade, letting any excess batter drip off, and dredge thoroughly in the flour mixture, taking your time and making sure every wet spot is coated and absorbed. Shake off any excess flour and transfer the chicken to a plate.

4. Working in batches so as not to crowd the pot, fry the thighs until deep golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes, turning halfway through. Remove and let cool on the wire rack or paper towels.

5. When ready to serve, cut the chicken lengthwise and then crosswise into bitesize pieces. Place the chicken over a bed of rice and drizzle with the Gochujang Aioli and Su-Miso Sauce. In a small bowl, toss the furikake, rice crackers, and fried garlic together and sprinkle over the chicken.

Top with scallions. Serve immediately with salt-pickled cabbage on the side.

spice brand has this suggestion: Toast ¼ cup sesame seeds in dry skillet on medium heat about 2 minutes or until lightly toasted, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a bowl and cool completely. Then, place toasted sesame seeds, 2 tablespoons bonito (dried fish) flakes, 3 sheets unseasoned nori (dried seaweed), 2 teaspoons sugar and 2 teaspoons sea salt in food processor.

Pulse about 12 times or until mixture is well blended. Store in a tightly covered jar in a cool, dry place up to 1 month. This makes 96 (¼-teaspoon) servings.

RECIPE AND PHOTOS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM “COOK REAL HAWAI’I”

BY SHELDON SIMEON AND GARRETT SNYDER, COPYRIGHT © 2021. PUBLISHED BY CLARKSON POTTER/ PUBLISHERS, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE. PHOTOGRAPHY COPYRIGHT KEVIN J. MIYAZAKI © 2021.

fall 2021 real food 55

pairings

Velvety Vino Easy-drinking Pinot Noir makes a smooth partner at the dinner table

BY MARY SUBIALK A

C

onsidered one of the most food-friendly reds due to its higher acidity and lower tannins, even white wine devotees should enjoy Pinot Noir’s silky medley of flavors that can range from fruity to earthy, depending on its origin.

The grape’s homeland is Burgundy, France, and Pinots from that region are commonly described as having hints of earth, wet leaves or mushrooms to complement the fruity flavors of cherry and raspberry and notes of clove and vanilla. These renowned wines are labeled by location, so look for red Burgundy and you’ll know Pinot Noir is the dominant grape in the bottle.

Vintners in California and Oregon also produce Pinot Noir so delicious it gives Burgundy a run for its euro. Some of the most esteemed Pinots in the U.S. come from California’s Central Coast. San Francisco Bay and its northern San Pablo Bay give the area’s Carneros region a cooler climate that allows grapes to mature slowly and evenly. Inland a bit, the Russian River that snakes through Sonoma County is responsible for the chill that makes the Russian River Valley a premier Pinot region as well.

California Pinot Noir has the lush flavors associated with Burgundy and is typically a little higher in alcohol than its French counterparts. Oregon’s Willamette Valley is also famous for its Pinot. The wine produced there is usually a little lighter in color and texture, and not as fruit-forward as California Pinot Noir. More akin to French Pinot, Willamette Valley wineries deliver flavors of cranberry and Bing cherry, as well as those earthy mushroom undertones you’ll find in a Burgundy.

If you’d like to dine on a cheese course while sipping your Pinot, try Brie, Comté, Gruyère, a young Gouda, Manchego or goat cheese. For a full meal, uncork a bottle to drink alongside a meaty dinner of beef tenderloin, roast pork loin or roast chicken.

The wine also complements vegetarian meals, such as mushroom risotto, or dishes using root vegetables flavored with herbs. If you don’t know what to bring to Thanksgiving, Pinot Noir pairs well with turkey and everything else at the table. Seafood also makes for a good pairing: Grilled salmon and roasted sea bass are both great companions for this classic red. n PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food fall 2021

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