TRAVELLER LOW S E A SON
Issue 3 December 2022
ANDALUCIA’S CULTURAL WONDERS Low season delights in sultry southern Spain
RAILWAY TO HEAVEN
We check out the Venice Simplon Orient Express in the low season
HOTELS & SUSTAINABILITY How to spot greenwashing and choose truly eco hotels
M AGA Z INE
BELLA ITALIA The case for Italy in the festive season
FEATURED DESTINATIONS:
MONTENEGRO PUGLIA NEPAL PHILADELPHIA TANZANIA BALI AND MUCH MORE...
Featured Destination: Montenegro
MONTENEGRO Laid back Mediterranean gem of historic towns and dark mountains
Low Season Traveller
Low Season: November - March
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Low Season Traveller
Featured Destination: Montenegro
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The Railway to Heaven
Low Season Traveller
The Railway To
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The Railway to Heaven
Heaven
The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express operates in December for the first time.
By Sally Hauser
The train runs from March to December on a variety of routes including the original Paris to Istanbul, the most frequent route between London and Venice/Verona, as well as periodically to Florence, Innsbruck, Geneva, Vienna, Prague and Budapest. “Sally, you’re going on the [Venice Simplon-]OrientExpress…!” were not words I had ever imagined myself hearing, and when I did I have no shame in admitting that I had a tear in my eye and felt almost nauseous with excitement. Not solely because it’s the ultimate journey for someone whose job is all about trains; in addition to that, over the years, I had spent many an afternoon in my grandmother’s room in our family home, engrossed in the adventures of one impeccably-moustached Hercule Poirot of “Murder on the Orient Express” fame. My grandmother had passed away earlier that same year and it was a very special thing to be offered - I was absolutely delighted. Once you have discovered the joy of travelling by train, it gets in the blood; you start to loathe airports and baggage reclaim and look to see how much of your trip could conceivably be completed by rail. Rail travel is also a great way to decrease your carbon-footprint, but that doesn’t mean you can’t do it in style! The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is – without a doubt – the most sought-after rail travel journey of all, if not a
highly-coveted travel experience in its own right outside the realms of rail enthusiasts. When I meet people for the first time and tell them what I do for a living, the first thing they ask me is almost always “have you been on [Venice Simplon-] Orient-Express?”, and of course, I can reply “Yes, I have!” It’s a brilliant ice-breaker and something I am immensely pleased to have done – I am also extremely grateful to have been given the opportunity. After a couple of nights in Venice, I was met at my hotel and personally escorted by Belmond’s representatives to St Lucia station. I boarded the train at around 11am on a very grey and rainy day in October but the dismal weather was soon chased away by the warm and cheerful smiles from members of the immaculate on-board team who are there to proudly welcome you on the red-carpeted platform (including the Chief Steward, the Maitre D’ and Head Chef). An equallyamenable steward will escort you to your private cabin and give you something cool and fizzy, served in dazzling cutglass, to help you settle in and unwind. By this point in my career, I had talked about this train to customers and colleagues alike at great length, so I knew a lot about it, but I was not prepared for quite how incredible it is. It’s important to take your time and really appreciate the detail of your surroundings and thus you will understand why it comes with the price-tag. Each unique carriage has been lovingly restored and has its own fascinating history details of which can be found in an inscribed plaque at each entrance way - so I walked along the train reading about the origins of some of these near-100-year-old passenger cars. For instance, some were built in France, some in England,
Low Season Traveller
Sally Hauser shares her experience of travelling from Venice to London on the most famous rail experience of all time, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, which will operate in December for the very first time in 2022 – connecting the cities of Paris and Venice by luxury rail in low season.
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Featured Destination: Puglia, Italy
PUGLIA, ITALY Discover the best kept secrets of the heel of Italy
Low Season Traveller
Low Season: October - April
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Featured Destination: Puglia, Italy By Claire French
With over 800km of coastline and a strategically important location on the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, the region has historically been a scene of conflict and occupation with Ottomans, Greeks and Spanish all leaving marks of their heritage. Nowadays Puglians seem to have embraced the opposite vibe, enjoying a peaceful, laid-back attitude to life. Until, that is, night falls and locals take to the streets for their evening passiega. That’s when shops reopen, families come out and bars
are filled. You’ll find some tourists for sure, but these are mostly attracted by the high temperatures and buzzing beach life of the summer holiday period. From midOctober through to early April though, you’re up for a less crowded, more enhanced, low season experience. Wintertime in Puglia is very mild and although the coolest months of January and February can dip below 10°C, low season mostly remains moderately warm especially when compared with northern Europe. Showers are possible with the Salento area seeing the least rainfall, but when rain does come it tends to be brief and there are still plenty of clear, sunny days. In fact, when summer’s blistering highs cool down, that’s the perfect time to visit Puglia’s charming, whitewashed towns, see the stunning architecture of Renaissance cities and explore row after row of the olive groves of this beautiful region. Low season Puglia offers a real chance to find an authentic Italy, connecting with the southern land and people on a much deeper level than at any other time of the year.
Low Season Traveller
Remember that dream you had of wine flowing from petrol pumps like endless gallons of the best unleaded? That is no dream, that is Puglia. This still somehow lesser-known region of Italy’s south-eastern heel is one of Europe’s glorious hidden treasures. Not least, it boasts the very top picks for wineries with over 200 producers and 25 dominations of origin. The more discerning among us may choose to experience fine dining at an upmarket wine resort featuring the exquisite raisiny reds that Puglia excels in. But you can do a whole lot worse than rock up at a local consorzio for ‘vino alla spina’, literally wine on tap, and dispense your own very acceptable five litre haul for a dreamy €8.
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Featured Destination: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA Whet your appetite for iconic history, immersive art, and a Philly cheesesteak
Low Season Traveller
Low Season: November - February
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Featured Destination: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania By Claire French
Sitting in the US north-eastern corner, the City of Brotherly Love is conveniently located with easy access by train or car from Boston, New York and Washington DC. It also enjoys direct flights from throughout Europe, making the birthplace of the Fresh Prince, a great choice for a stand-alone break, or a cool stop on a tour of the eastern states. Get your walking shoes on to discover the varied neighbours, particularly around the historic centre, and work up an appetite for the fantastic cuisine you’ll find to suit all pockets and palates. Within walking distance, you’ll be spoilt for choice in your exploration of genuinely iconic sites. Take in the UNESCO World
Heritage Independence Hall where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, snap a pic in front of the Liberty Bell, and get loved up in Love Park, before heading down to Spruce Street Harbour Park for a beer on the Delaware River Waterfront. Spring and summer visits to Philly are popular due to warm weather, numerous festivals and a beach-like vibe along the riverside. However, it is truly a four-season destination with historical attractions and worldrenowned art exhibits remaining open throughout the year. During the low season months of December to February, you’ll find top accommodation at bargain rates, easy entry to otherwise crowded sites, and wonderful seasonal menus at local restaurants. Although the weather can stay mild, winter wanderers should be prepared for possible sub-zero temperatures and even snowstorms. Pack your layers or even better pick up some new cold-weather gear at tax-free rates.
Low Season Traveller
Pop Quiz. Which major centre was the first United States World Heritage City? Where can you pay your respects at the tomb of Benjamin Franklin? Which city has achieved the accolade of the nation’s 5th most walkable? If you’ve answered, ‘Philadelphia’ to all of the above, go to the top of the class, your grades are looking good.
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