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I CA L VO

E & TIPS

Japan

A visually inspiring collection of Japan’s best experiences and where to have them C O N T E N T F E AT U R E S :

•

Explore thousands of temples in Kyoto Relax in one of the onsens scattered across Japan Sample Japan’s sublime cuisine

•

Amazing experiences

Plan the perfect trip

Off the beaten track

Writer recommendations, highlights and the best of local knowledge.

Top itineraries help you create your ideal trip.

Discover local secrets to make your trip unique.

DER

XXTH EDITION

Published Nov 2019 First Published May 1997

Onsen etiquette guide Japanese food explained Find our perfect island

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Japan

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P O RT U G U ES E D EC O R AT I V E A RT G E M S

Set in a petite 17th-century palace, this museum creaks under the weight of treasures including blingy French silverware, priceless Qing vases and Indo-Chinese furniture – a collection amassed by a wealthy Portuguese banker from the age of 16. It’s worth a visit just to admire the lavish apartments, embellished with baroque azulejos, frescoes and chandeliers alone. Architecture lovers will appreciate the details on the façade of the palace, unique for the 17th-century period of its construction.

Miradouro da Senhora do Monte S U N S E T FRO M T H E H I G H EST H I L L

Lisbon spreads out before you at Graça’s highest of the high lookouts, Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. Come for the relaxed vibe and the best and most breath-taking views of the castle on the hill opposite. It’s a short walk west (along Rua da Senhora do Monte) of the tram 28E stop on Rua da Graça. This is one of the lesser-known miradouros in Lisbon, despite being the highest. From this pine-shaded plaza, the entire city spreads out picturesquely before you. Besides the castle, spot the Panteao Nacional on the skyline to the west.

Casa dos Bicos R E N A I S S A N C E FACA D E AND WRITER’S FO U N DAT I O N

Jardim da Cerca da Graça P I C N I C S , D O G WA L KS , A N D CAST L E V I E WS

While Lisbon might not immediately strike you as a green city, there are well-tended parks, botanical gardens lush with palms and banyan trees, and praças (squares) with fountains offering peaceful respite if you know where to look. Closed for centuries, this 1.7-hectare green space opened again in 2015 and is Lisbon’s second-biggest park, offering a lush transition between the neighbourhoods of Graça and Mouraria. There are superb city and castle views from several points and a shady picnic park along with a playground, an orchard and a peaceful kiosk with a terrace. Load up on wine and cheese and call it an afternoon here!

Museu do Fado

Miradouro de Santa Luzia

T R AC I N G T H E H I STO RY O F FA D O

N E I G H B O U R H O O D V I E WS A N D PH OTO -WO RT H Y BAC K D RO P S

Fado (traditional Portuguese melancholic song) was born in here in the Alfama neighbourhood. Immerse yourself in its bittersweet symphonies at the Museu do Fado. This engaging museum

being the highest. From this pine-shaded plaza, the entire city spreads out picturesquely before you. Besides the castle, spot the Panteao Nacional on the skyline to the west.

traces fado’s history from its working-class roots, its development and evolution to its current international stardom. The collection takes in discs, recordings, instruments, artefacts,

posters and a recreated guitar workshop. Afterwards, pick up some fado of your own at the shop and feel prepared when you catch a show in the city. The museum hosts free shows four nights a week.

Views across Alfama’s rooftops to the Rio Tejo below beckon from the bougainvillea-wreathed Miradouro de Santa Luzia viewpoint. At the back, note the blue-and-white azulejo tile panels depicting scenes from the Siege of Lisbon in 1147 and the early-18th-century Praça do Comércio. Note that tram 28E rambles right past Miradouro de Santa Luzia as it begins its ascent into Alfama.

The pincushion facade of Casa dos Bicos, the eccentric 16th-century abode of Afonso de Albuquerque, former viceroy to India, grabs your attention with 1125 diamond-shape spikes (bicos). The casa houses a small museum dedicated to José Saramago (1922–2010), Portugal’s most famous writer; and a newly added ground-floor excavation of Roman ruins. Known for his discursive, cynical and darkly humorous novels, Saramago gained global attention after winning the Nobel Prize in 1998. His best works mine the depth of the human experience and are often set in a uniquely Portuguese landscape. Don’t miss the olive tree planted out front, taken from his birthplace, Azinhaga. Below the tree are the ashes of the great writer.

THE GUIDE

TIME FROM EXETER: 32 MINS

Historic Buildings & Hippie Vibes At the top of the Dart Estuary, 30 minutes by train south of Exeter, Totnes is a charming market town packed with historic buildings and incredible Tudor architecture. It’s also one of the most ethical places in Britain: in 2006, Totnes was one of the first towns in the UK to declare itself a Transition Town, and in 2011 it became a Fairtrade Town. Riverford Farm, birthplace of the organic veggie-box subscription service, lies nearby, and Totnes’ high street is one of the most independent in England, crammed with zero-waste shops, local crafts boutiques and vegan cafes. Historic highlights include Totnes Castle (a Norman motte and bailey castle with 13th-century stone keep) the colonnaded Tudor buildings near the top of High St, Totnes Museum with its Elizabethan Garden, and the ancient Guildhall tucked away down a leafy side street behind the church.

DARTMOUTH’S MARITIME HISTORY

Streets of Dartmouth

dred Years’ War to protect from potential French invasion. A booming sound-and-light show inside the Victorianera point battery brings history to life. Don’t miss the estuary views from the top of the gun tower, which is one of the oldest gun forts in England, built in the 1490s. You can walk to the castle, but the Dartmouth Castle Ferry is much more romantic.

Paddling the Dart Flowing serenely through a deep wooded valley, the Dart Estuary is the final, tidal stretch of the River Dart. Rich in wildlife and dotted with waterside villages like idyllic Dittisham, the estuary is best explored from the water. One of the best ways to explore is on a kayak or paddleboard. Rent a kayak or board from Totnes Kayaks, in Stoke Gabriel, and follow the tide up- or downriver, keeping your eyes peeled for otters, seals, kingfishers and more. Canoe Adventures run year-round voyages in their 12-seater wooden canoes.

Dartmouth

TIME FROM EXETER: 1 HR 32 MINS

Fortress Views From its vantage point at the entrance to the Dart estuary, 45 miles south of Exeter, the imposing limestone artillery fort of Dartmouth Castle has been watching over Dartmouth and the River Dart for over 600 years. The oldest parts of the fort date from 1388, built during the Hun-

EATING IN TOTNES: OUR PICKS Wild Fig Deli & Cafe £ With seasonal, locally sourced food and great veggie and vegan options. thewildfig.co.uk 294

Current layout

Totnes

Big Kebabski £ Awardwinning independent pop-up specialising in vegetarian and vegan kebabs with a twist. @thebigkebabski

Cruising along the Dart PHILIP BIRD LRPS CPAGB/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Museu de Artes Decorativas Portuguesas

the castle on the hill opposite. It’s a short walk west (along Rua da Senhora do Monte) of the tram 28E stop on Rua da Graça. This is one of the lesser-known miradouros in Lisbon, despite

BEYOND E XETER DEVON & CORNWALL

LISBON: ALFAMA , MOUR ARIA & GR AÇA

R U I N S O F A RO M A N T H E AT R E

Lisbon spreads out before you at Graça’s highest of the high lookouts, Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. Come for the relaxed vibe and the best and most breath-taking views of

LISBON: ALFAMA , MOUR ARIA & GR AÇA

Teatro Romano de Lisboa

T H E FI N A L R EST I N G PL AC E O F P O RT U G U ES E I D O L S

Perched high and mighty above Graça’s Campo de Santa Clara, the porcelain-white Panteão Nacional is a baroque beauty. Originally intended as a church, it now pays homage to Portugal’s heroes and heroines, including 15th-century explorer Vasco da Gama and fadista (fado singer) Amália Rodrigues.

THE GUIDE

Panteão Nacional

Dame Agatha Christie (1890–1976) was born Agatha Miller in Torquay’s Barton Rd. During WWI, she worked as a nurse at the Red Cross Hospital in Torquay Town Hall. Working in the Dispensary equipped Christie with a knowledge of poisons that helped her kill off numerous characters, including the victim of her first novel, The Mysterious Affair at Styles (1920). After divorcing Archibald Christie in 1926, Christie married archaeologist Sir Max Mallowan in 1930 and accompanied him on several expeditions. These provided new settings for novels like Murder on the Orient Express (1934) and Death on the Nile (1937), although she continued to set many works in Devon, specialising in ‘murders of quiet, domestic interest’.

Catch the 90-minute cruise from Dartmouth to Totnes with Dartmouth Steam Railway and Riverboat Company, which provides an amusing, insightful commentary and unparalleled views from the top deck. Alternatively, you can rent your own self-drive motorboat from Dartmouth Boat Hire: keep your eyes peeled for kingfishers, cormorants, grey herons, little egrets and even seals.

Walking Trail with Wine On dry land, you can also follow the Dart Valley Trail, a 16-

Dartmouth’s history is salty and compelling: ships headed off on the Crusades from here in the 12th century, and the Pilgrim Fathers first left from here for America in 1620 – only to have to put in at Plymouth (p000), where they would later depart from the famous Mayflower Steps, because one of the boats sprang a leak. In WWII thousands of American servicemen set off from Dartmouth for the carnage of the Normandy landings. Echoes of that martial past are still present; the hills above town are home to the Britannia Royal Naval College, the imposing 100-year-old mansion where the Royal Navy still trains all its officers.

BEYOND E XETER DEVON & CORNWALL

MARCH 2024

AGATHA CHRISTIE

Railway, a 1920s funicular that will transport you from the upper station on Cliffside Rd down to the rust-red shingle sand at Oddicombe Beach. Pause in the clifftop gardens at Babbacombe Downs before descending for views along the coast as far as Dorset.

THE GUIDE

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EATING IN DARTMOUTH: OUR PICKS Riverford Field Kitchen ££ An ecofriendly, farm-to-table dining experience with vegcentric seasonal menus. fieldkitchen.riverford. co.uk

Green Table £ It’s the ethos and ingredients that make this stylish bistro stand out – dishes brim with locally sourced food. @greentablecafe

Alf Resco £ Casual cafe with a tiny terrace and a museum-like interior full of eclectic maritime decor. cafealfresco.co.uk

Rockfish ££ Posh fish and chips and catch-ofthe-day specials from the original branch of the popular southwest chain. @therockfishuk

Angel £££ Relaxed fine dining and special tasting menus at a multi-award-winning riverside restaurant. theangeldartmouth.co.uk

Andria £££ Chic contemporary restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, focused on modern European cuisine. andriadartmouth. com

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THE GUIDE LISBON: ALFAMA , MOUR ARIA & GR AÇA

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While it’s tempting to jump on the 28 tram, there are other ways to explore the area without the crowds. Take a bus to Graça and walk downhill or climb up from Alfama, stopping to regain your energy at one of the many cafés or viewpoints.

I Top Sights

T H E C I T Y ’ S O L D EST C H U RC H

1 Sé de Lisboa It was D. Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, who ordered the construction of this cathedral when he chased out 2 Castelo de Sao Jorge the Moors in 1147. More than a building, the Sé (sedelisboa. 3 Arco da Rua Augusta pt) became the headquarters of the city’s newfound religion. 4 Convento do Carmo had to disown its Moorish traditions, and nothing 5 Largo das Portas doAlfama Sol 6 Museu do Fado symbolised that more than the replacement of the former 7 A Vida Portuguesa mosque for the church. The original building was Romanesque,

but interventions throughout the centuries have contributed to a mix of styles, which include Gothic and Baroque. With the 8 M’ar de Ar Aqueduto 9 Hotel Albergaria earthquake of 1755, the church was partially destroyed. The fortress-like structure you see today is mostly a modern revival. 10 M’ar de Ar Aqueduto But beneath all these layers, there are traces of a forgot6 Eat 11 Tua Madre ten era. Ongoing excavations underneath the cloister have 12 Hibrido found traces of Roman and Islamic features. The work that 13 Dom Joaquim started in the 90s is still a topic of debate among archaeolo14 O Combinado gists, who are yet to confirm if this was the site of the city’s missing mosque.

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TOP TIP From local live music to large-scale festivals, there’s always something going on in Exeter. Check the calendar of events at visitexeter.com to find out what’s happening when you visit. Foodies shouldn’t miss the weekly farmers’ market, held every Thursday on the junction of South and Fore Sts.

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Towering dramatically above Lisbon, these mid-11th-century hilltop fortifications sneak into almost every snapshot. Roam its snaking ramparts and pineshaded courtyards for superlative views over the city’s red rooftops to the river. Three guided tours daily (in Portuguese, English and Spanish are included in the admission price (additional tours available). These smooth cobbles have seen it all – Visigoths in the 5th century, Moors in the 9th century, Christians in the 12th century, royals from the 14th to 16th centuries, and convicts in every century.

LISBON: ALFAMA , MOUR ARIA & GR AÇA

A H I L LTO P M O O R I S H CAST L E

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Exeter’s centre is compact and fairly walkable, with plenty of footpaths, but expect a few hills and cobbles on some older streets. It’s also a very bike-friendly city with numerous cycle routes. Day trippers coming by car should use one of the three Park & Ride services to avoid driving in the city centre, which can get very congested.

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GETTING AROUND

Founded 2000 years ago by the Romans as Isca Dumnoniorum, Exeter is a city where history awaits around every corner. Traces of the town’s Roman walls still stand, alongside a Norman castle, a monumental twin-towered cathedral, a medieval guildhall and plenty of Tudor gabled architecture. This is a city that has lived many historical lives, leaving behind an attractive, eclectic centre where history comes alive on every street. Today it’s a lively university town with a buzzy nightlife, vibrant arts scene and plethora of independent businesses, while Exeter Quay has been reinvented as a riverside leisure destination.

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Interesting street(s) Interesting place(s)

Climb the towers of Exeter cathedral Built by the Normans on the site of a Saxon Abbey in 1114 and rebuilt throughout the 13th and 14th centuries, the Cathedral Church of St Peter’s (exeter-cathedral.org.uk; The Close; adult/ child £5/free; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) blend of architectural styles showcases Exeter’s long history, deserving lengthy exploration. The dazzling jewel in the cathedral’s crown is its elaborate West Front Image Screen, covered with scores of carved figures depicting angels, kings, lords and saints. Carved in the 14th century, this masterpiece of medieval creativity would have once been entirely coloured: you can still see traces of red behind some of the figures. Inside, don’t miss the exquisite fan-vaulted ceiling. A programme of special tours, including rooftop tower tours, runs throughout the year.

Step into History

a solid overview of local history start with the ‘Heart of Exeter’ or ‘Introducing Exeter’ tours. Occasionally, the Redcoat team run a specialist tour to tie in with a specific event, including Halloween ghost tours. Most tours depart from the Cathedral Green, with no booking required.

EXPERIENCES 1 Exeter Cathedral p290 2 Redcoat Tours p290 3 Underground tunnels p291 4 River Exe p292

Underground Exeter

WHERE TO EAT p291 1 Red Panda 2 Cork & Tile 3 Old Firehouse 4 Harry’s

Don a hard hat and get ready to duck on a tour of Exeter’s

EATING IN EXETER: OUR PICKS 1

MAP P291, 2

Walking tours with experts Dive into Exeter’s many past lives with a local expert. Run by Exeter City Council, Redcoat Tours (exeter.gov.uk/leisure-and-culture) offers a diverse, year-round programme of free, funny and fascinating tours led by passionate locals clad in bright red blazers. Tours range from the city’s Roman origins and historic architecture to ghosts and legends. For

MAP P291, 3

Explore 14th century vaulted tunnels

Red Panda £

Southeast Asian street food from a cwolourful independent takeaway. redpandafood.com 5-10pm Fri-Tue

2 Cork & Tile ££ Authentic Portuguese tapas and wine bar on Exeter’s historic Gandy St. cork-tile-exeter.com 5-9pm Wed-Sat

3 Old Firehouse ££ Popular student hangout loved for its square pizzas, Sunday roasts and live music. oldfirehouseexeter. co.uk, 12pm-2am WedSat, from 4pm Mon & Tues

4 Harry’s ££ Familyrun restaurant in a 19th-century Gothic building, with a diverse menu full of local produce. harry-exeter. com, 6-10pm Thurs-Sun

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With 22 miles of coastline and over 20 beaches to explore, The London there’s no better way to spend a sunny day on the English Riva solid overviewiera. of local startalong with the the Victorian ‘Heart of seafront ExPaddington to EXPERIENCES Starthistory with a walk in Torquay eter’ or ‘Introducing Exeter’ tours. Occasionally, the Redcoat Penzance main line 1 Exeter Cathedral p290 (25 miles south of Exeter), with its wide, palm-lined promenade 2 Redcoat Tours p290 cuts through South team run a specialist tour to tie in with a specific event, inand numerous gardens. The historic Princess Pier, built in 3 Underground tunnels Devon, calling at cluding Halloween ghost tours. Most tours departGardens from theare perhaps 1890, and neighbouring Princess the p291 Totnes and Newton Cathedral Green, with no booking required. most iconic sights, named for Queen Victoria’s fourth daugh4 River Exe p292

ter Princess Louise. Torquay’s most popular beach is Torre

Abbot; some services also stop at Dawlish

WHERE TO EAT p291 Underground Exeter P291, 3 Abbey Sands, a sandy, tidal beachMAP overlooked by one of Torand Teignmouth. A 1 Red Panda

bay’s most historic buildings, Torre Abbey, built in2 1196. Explore 14th century vaulted tunnels Cork &Rent Tile

branch line takes in the coastal stations en route from Exeter St David’s to Paignton. Bus links are good EATING IN EXETER: OUR PICKS between South Retro British Beach Vibes Devon’s main towns; 1 Red Panda £ 2 Cork 3 Old Firehouse 4 Harry’s & Tile ££beach at Paignton, ££ further ££ FamilyThe long, pink-hued 3 miles south, inevitably they’re less Authentic Portuguese Popular student Southeast Asian street run restaurant in a also boasts a grand Victorian pier, but this one is steeped in frequent between and winehome bar onto anhangout loved forarcade its food from a cwolourful 19th-century seasidetapas nostalgia, amusement and funfair Gothic smaller towns and Exeter’s historic Gandy square pizzas, Sunday independent takeaway. building, with a diverse rides. Despite a slightly tired feel, the retro vibes and sandy St.continue cork-tile-exeter.com roasts and liveespecially music. redpandafood.combeaches menu full of localvillages. Traveline to appeal to families, the golden South West 5-9pm Wed-Sat oldfirehouseexeter. 5-10pm Fri-Tue produce. harry-exeter. sands of Goodrington Beach and Broadsands. (travelinesw.com) has co.uk, 12pm-2am Wedcom, 6-10pm Thurs-Sun timetables. Sat, from 4pm Mon &

a kayak or paddleboard from Wesup Abbey Sands toFirehouse make 3 Old Don a hard hat and get ready to duck on a tour of Exeter’s the most of the bay’s calm waters, or lose yourself4 Harry’s amid the abbey’s attractive gardens above.

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Once the lifeblood industry and trade in the city, today the MEDIEVAL HISTORY | ROMAN ARCHITECTURE | RIVERofCRUISES EXETER OVER THE River Exe lends Exeter a gentle, countryside atmosphere. CENTURIES The Quayside area is buzzing on sunny days, with plenty of Exeter’s past can be 2000options for alfresco dining andasdrinks. A short walk or cycle Founded years ago by the Romans Isca Dumread in its buildings. south, will have you awaits in the tranquil noniorum, Exeter is athough, city where history aroundsurroundings of The Romans marched the parks and meadows that line the river and the Exeter Traces of the town’s Roman walls still in aroundevery AD 55; corner. Ship Canal, which runs alongside the Exe to Topsham. Extheir 17-hectare stand, alongside a Norman castle, monumental return £6/3/15; GETTING AROUND eter Cruises (Exeter Quay; a adult/child/family fortress included twin-toweredhcathedral, a medieval guildhall and daily Jun-Aug, Sat & Sun only Apr, May & Sep) run seasonExeter’s centre is a 2-mile defensive al trips alongarchitecture. the canal through plenty of Tudor gabled Thisthis is agreenery city as far as the compact and fairlywall, crumbling pub. lives, leaving behind that has livedDouble manyLocks historical walkable, with plenty sections of which To slow down and escape the city, rent aalive kayak, canoe or padof footpaths, but remain, especially an attractive, eclectic centre where history comes dleboard and set off on a leisurely journey downriver. With a expect a few hills and in Rougemont and on every street. Today it’s a lively university town with full day, you can paddle to the birdlife-rich Exminster Marshcobbles on some older Northernhay Gardens. buzzy nightlife, vibrant arts(rspb.co.uk), scene andthe plethora of in Devon where streets. It’s also a Saxon andaNorman es RSPB Reserve only place businesses, has been very bike-friendly city times sawindependent growth: a lapwings stillwhile breed.Exeter Several Quay companies around the quay offer with numerous cycle castle went up in 1068, as equipment rentals; Saddles and Paddles (sadpad.com;half-/ reinvented a riverside leisure destination. routes. Day trippersthe cathedral 40 years full day £9/12) also rent bikes to hit the Exe Estuary Trail. Torquay

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coming by car should later. The Tudor wool use one of the threeboom brought Exeter A Medieval Masterwork MAP P291, 1 Park & Ride services antoexport trade, riches Climb the towers of Exeter cathedral avoid driving in theand cityhalf-timbered Built by the Normans on the site of a Saxon Abbey in 1114 and centre, which can get houses; prosperity very congested. continuedrebuilt into thethroughout the 13th and 14th centuries, the Cathedral GeorgianChurch era, whenof St Peter’s (exeter-cathedral.org.uk; The Close; adult/ hundredschild of merchants £5/free; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) blend of architectural styles built genteel homes. Exeter’s long history, deserving lengthy exploration. showcases The Blitz of WWII The dazzling jewel in the cathedral’s crown is its elaborate West brought devastation; in Screen, covered with scores of carved figures deFront Image TOP TIP just one night in 1942, picting angels, kings, lords and saints. Carved in the 14th cenFrom local live music 156topeople died and tury, this masterpiece of medieval creativity would have once large-scale festivals, 12 hectares of the city been entirely coloured: you can still see traces of red behind there’s always something were flattened. In the some the figures. Inside, don’t miss the exquisite fan-vaulted going on in Exeter. Check 21st century, theof £220 the calendar of events at Princesshay ceiling. A programme of special tours, including rooftop tower million visitexeter.com to find out Shoppingtours, Centreruns throughout the year. what’s happening when you added visit. Foodies shouldn’t miss shimmering glass andStep steel lines. the weekly farmers’ market, into History MAP P291, 2 held every ThursdayBut on 2016 brought a Walking at the tours with experts the junction of Southserious and fire Dive into Hotel Exeter’s many past lives with a local expert. Run Fore Sts. Royal Clarence – a much-loved 18th- City Council, Redcoat Tours (exeter.gov.uk/leiby Exeter century building in sure-and-culture) offers a diverse, year-round programme the heart of of Cathedral free, funny and fascinating tours led by passionate locals Yard. clad in bright red blazers. Tours range from the city’s Roman

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Underground Passages (exeter.gov.uk/passages; 2 Paris St), a system of 14th-century vaulted tunnels built to bring clean drinking water into the city through lead pipes. Squeeze through claustrophobia-inducing narrow passageways, with the unnerving rumble of traffic overhead, to learn about this clever piece of medieval engineering. It’s a unique experience; there’s no similar publicly accessible system in Britain.

Pařížs

The locator maps in both the Defining Place and Beyond sections now confined to a circle, which always sits on the right of the headline.

THE GUIDE

Locator Maps

A Funicular Journey to the Beach Tues

For a vintage seaside day out, head for the Babbacombe Cliff

291

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to a mix and of styles, which include Gothic and Baroque. With the origins historic architecture to ghosts and legends. For 8 M’ar de Ar Aqueduto 9 Hotel Albergaria earthquake of 1755, the church was partially destroyed. The fortress-like structure you see today is mostly a modern revival. 10 M’ar de Ar Aqueduto

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Southeast Asian street food from a cwolourful independent takeaway. redpandafood.com 5-10pm Fri-Tue

Authentic Portuguese tapas and wine bar on Exeter’s historic Gandy St. cork-tile-exeter.com 5-9pm Wed-Sat

SIGHTS & EXPERIENCES # 9 # 10 # 11 # 12 EATING & DRINKING # 27

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Built by the Normans on the site of a Saxon Abbey in 1114 and rebuilt throughout the 13th and 14th centuries, the Cathedral Church of St Peter’s (exeter-cathedral.org.uk; The Close; adult/ child £5/free; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) blend of architectural styles showcases Exeter’s long history, deserving lengthy exploration. The dazzling jewel in the cathedral’s crown is its elaborate West Front Image Screen, covered scores of carved figures deNewwith style picting angels, kings, lords and saints. Carved in the 14th century, this masterpiece of medieval creativity would have once been entirely coloured: you can still see traces of red behind some of the figures. Inside, don’t miss the exquisite fan-vaulted ceiling. programme of special tours, including rooftop tower Sé deA Lisboa tours, runs throughout the year.

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that has lived many historical lives, leaving behind an attractive, eclectic centre where history comes alive on every street. Today it’s a lively university town with aMARCH buzzy 2024 nightlife, vibrant arts scene and plethora of independent businesses, while Exeter Quay has been reinvented as a riverside leisure destination.

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VAL HISTORY | ROMAN ARCHITECTURE | RIVER CRUISES

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Popular student hangout loved for its square pizzas, Sunday roasts and live music. oldfirehouseexeter. co.uk, 12pm-2am WedSat, from 4pm Mon & Tues

run restaurant in a 19th-century Gothic building, with a diverse menu full of local produce. harry-exeter. com, 6-10pm Thurs-Sun 291

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The ticker boxes have changed to 4-column instead, let the chef surprise with their (previously and now usedEXPERIENCES onlyyoufor a solid overview of3-column) local history start with are the ‘Heart of Exlatest creations. eter’ or ‘Introducing Exeter’ tours. Occasionally, the Redcoat Exeter Cathedral p290 Tua MadreTours p290 eating/drinking separate listings section for team run a specialist tourPOIs. to tie inA with a specific event, inRedcoat Alentejo delicacies Underground tunnels cluding Halloween ghost tours. Most tours depart from the arechapter. paired with accommodation will be at the end of thep291 Cathedral Green, with no booking required. Templo Romano k

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A mile offshore from the touristy town of Looe is St George’s Island 6 (known to most as Looe Island). In 1965 it was occupied by Surrey sisters Babs and Evelyn Atkins, who established a nature reserve here, and lived there peacefully for most of their lives, restoring habitats and monitoring wildlife populations. Guided walks are run by the island ranger, who can help you spot grey seals, cormorants, shags and oystercatchers. It’s managed by the Cornwall Wildlife Trust, which also arranges boat transfers.

291

WHERE TO STAY IN ÉVORA M’ar de Ar Aqueduto 1 A five-star hotel featuring a spa and a pool overlooking Évora’s aqueduct. €€

Hotel Albergaria do Calvário 2

An old olive oil mill, the hotel combines a rustic interior with modern facilities. €€

Old style

100% Adrenaline

MAP P329, 4

Jumping off cliffs for fun With the frankly genius tag line ‘Throwing people off clifftops since 2009’, Adrenaline Quarry offers a whole host of heartin-your-mouth fun. If you love the idea of hurtling down a zip line at 40mph, or struggling not to lose your lunch on a giant swing that simulates free fall, then this place will be right up your street. If that’s not enough, you can also coasteer round the quarry, then chuck axes at tree stumps. Or you’re welcome to just hang out by the lake, have a picnic and go for a wild swim, for free. Handily, it’s right next to Menheniot train station, which has direct connections to Liskeard and Plymouth.

King (or Queen) for the Day

MAP P329, 5

Tour a classic Norman keep

High on a hilltop above Lostwithiel, 9 miles from St Austell, the ruined castle of Restormel was built by Edward the Black Prince (the first Duke of Cornwall), although he only stayed there twice during his life. It’s one of the best-preserved circular keeps in the country, but almost nothing remains of the interior, apart from some side rooms and a medieval garder-

Appletons ££ Previously at Trevibban Mill, chef Andy Appleton now has a classy bistro on Fore St.

££ Shack-style dining with a chalkboard menu filled with oysters and fresh fish dishes.

stalwart for years: good fish, burgers, salads and steaks. There’s a second branch on Polkerris.

1 Appletons ££ Previously at Trevibban Mill, chef Andy Appleton now has a classy bistro on Fore St.

2 North Street Kitchen ££ Shack-style dining with a chalkboard menu filled with oysters and fresh fish dishes.

3 Sam’s £ A Fowey stalwart for years: good fish, burgers, salads and steaks. There’s a second branch on Polkerris.

332

2 North Street Kitchen

obe (storage room). Still, the view from the top of the battlements is a stunner: you’ll see clear to the coast on a good day.

Lanhydrock

MAP P329, 6

Upstairs Downstairs Lanhydrock, 2.5 miles southeast of Bodmin, offers a fascinating insight into life in Victorian England. The house was rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1881 as a home for the Agar-Robartes family, who made their fortune from mineral mining, particularly tin and china clay. No expense was spared in the refurbishment: the house was equipped with mod cons such as radiators, roasting ovens, warming cupboards and flushing loos, as well as a pioneering cold room beside the vast kitchens. The ornate Long Gallery, famous for its plaster ceiling, somehow survived the fire. The house was gifted to the National Trust in 1951 along with 160 hectares of parkland, offering a wealth of walks.

Devon and Cornwall have inspired countless writers. Often they reflect the counties’ characters in their work, and sometimes specific locations in their books can be tracked down today. Devon-born crimewriting legend Agatha Christie (p000) wove many local places into her novels, with her home open to visitors in Greenway (p000). Another West Country writer inextricably linked with the landscape she loved is Fowey-based Daphne du Maurier. Best known for romantic novels such as Rebecca, she also wrote the short story that became the Alfred Hitchcock film The Birds.

DRINKING IN FOWEY: OUR PICKS FOR PINTS

EATING IN FOWEY: OUR PICKS

Convento do Espinheiro 3 A former convent turned luxury hotel on the outskirts of Évora. €€€

Charlestown Harbour RIGHT: PAUL MAGUIRE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; LEFT: FRANZ-MARC FREI/GETTY IMAGES ©

THE GUIDE

CORNWALL’S ISLAND EDEN

LITERARY CONNECTIONS

FOWEY DEVON & CORNWALL

tour around the city. Begin at the 1 Palácio Dom Manuel I, a former royal palace recently converted into an interpreEATING IN EXETER: OUR PICKSof Évora. A few steps tation centre dedicated to the history from here is the 2 Igreja de São Francisco. Don’t let the 1 Red Panda £ 2 Cork & Tile ££ 3 Old Firehouse ££ modest exterior fool you. There’s more than meets the eye Authentic Portuguese Popular student Southeast Asian street here, as you’ll find out once you enter its eerie bone chapel. tapas and wine bar on hangout loved for its food from a cwolourful Continue towards old town until you reach the 3 Catehistoric Gandy square pizzas, Sunday independent takeaway.the Exeter’s dral de Évora. ClimbSt. upcork-tile-exeter.com to the cathedral’s rooftop roasts andfor livestunmusic. redpandafood.com ning panoramic views5-9pm of theWed-Sat city. oldfirehouseexeter. 5-10pm Fri-Tue Back on the streets, you’ll soon spot the 4 Templo Romaco.uk, 12pm-2am Wedno, the most iconic attraction in Évora. ThisSat, former Roman from 4pm Mon & temple dates back to the 1st century B.C. Curiously, it only Tues survived because it was a makeshift butcher in medieval times. Indeed, the exposed columns were only uncovered in the 19th century. New style

2 Cork & Tile 3 Hibrido 3 Old Firehouse Old Portuguese 4 Harry’shave been recipes brought to life and reinterpreted into a modern fusion of dishes. 4 Harry’s ££ Familyrun restaurant Dom Joaquim 4in a 19th-century Gothic Local pork, wines and building, conventual with a diverse delicious menu full local pastries areofthe produce. harry-exeter. highlights here. com, 6-10pm Thurs-Sun O Combinado 5 Take advantage of the daily menu or order à la carte at this cosy restaurant.

FOWEY DEVON & CORNWALL

MAP P291, 3

T R AC K I N G GEM S O F T H Evaulted PAST tunnels Explore 14th century FROM Don a hard hat and ready you to duck on aoff tour Exeter’s Arriving at the trainget station, can set on of a walking JULY 2024

bungee drop and a heart-stopping 25m ‘free fall’ jump on to an airbag. The easiest way to get here is by bus from St Austell, but a bike trail also runs close by. Entrepreneur Tim Smit is the brains behind Eden, but his first Cornish labour of love was the restoration of the Lost Gardens of Heligan, Cornwall’s real-life secret garden. Formerly the family estate of the Tremaynes, Heligan’s magnificent 19th-century gardens fell into disrepair following WWI, when many of its gardeners were killed. Since then, the gardens have been splendidly restored by a huge army of gardeners and volunteers. It’s a horticultural wonderland: as you explore the maze of trails, you’ll see working kitchen gardens, fruit-filled greenhouses, a secret grotto and a lost-world Jungle Valley of ferns, palms and tropical blooms – complete with its own rope bridge.

THE GUIDE

Underground Exeter Ruins, churches and palaces

risottos and pastas 4 River Exe p292 at this ItalianWHERE TO EAT p291 Portuguese hybrid. 1 Red Panda

3 Sam’s £ A Fowey

££ Shack-style dining with a chalkboard menu filled with oysters and fresh fish dishes.

5 King of Prussia: Head

for the pub with the best harbour view. The terrace in the back opens in summer.

6 Boathouse: Just off the main strip, this cosy pub has an excellent selection of Cornwall ciders and local brews.

7 Chintz: Wine, charcuterie, cheese and craft beers take centre stage at this ubertrendy hang-out.

8 Dolly’s: Enjoy a copious choice of real ales served straight from wooden casks. The entrance is off South St.

4 North Street Kitchen ££ Shack-style dining with a chalkboard menu filled with oysters and fresh fish dishes.

5 King of Prussia: Head for the pub with the best harbour view. The terrace in the back opens in summer.

6 Boathouse: Just off the main strip, this cosy pub has an excellent selection of Cornwall ciders and local brews.

7 Chintz: Wine, charcuterie, cheese and craft beers take centre stage at this ubertrendy hang-out.

8 Dolly’s: Enjoy a copious choice of real ales served straight from wooden casks. The entrance is off South St.

4 North Street Kitchen

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Main Column p94

Comfortable rooms and an indoor pool at a popular chain hotel known for its excellent views.

3 Boringdon Hall

Hotel & Spa £££ Grand country manor just outside Plymouth, with a spa, restaurant and stylish rooms.

4 Crowne Plaza ££

Comfortable rooms and an indoor pool at a popular chain hotel known for its excellent views.

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MAP P299, 3

At the heart of the historic Barbican district, Black Friar’s Distillery has been the home of Plymouth Gin since 1793, making it the oldest working gin distillery in England. Their navalstrength gin was supplied to the Royal Navy for nearly 200 years; officers made it into a ‘medicinal’ drink with lime juice, inventing the Gimlet cocktail. The building itself, a former monastery, dates from the early 1400s. It’s worth a visit for the Refectory Bar’s stunning beamed ceiling alone. Take one of the

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THE GUIDE PLYMOUTH DEVON & CORNWALL 298

2 Crowne Plaza ££

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Wherever you go in Plymouth, the salty tang of the sea is never too far away, so it’s fitting that the city is home to the National Marine Aquarium, the UK’s largest aquarium, with vast tanks showcasing marine life both local and exotic: sand tiger sharks, lemon sharks, barracuda, rays and loads more. For a very different view of the Ocean City, head for a dip at the lovely Tinside Lido, a striking art deco lido built in 1935 overlooking Plymouth Sound. Or book a session with Mount Batten Watersports or Southwest SUP, who can help you explore the dramatic sights of Plymouth Sound on the water.

Naval Strength

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The Box, a dramatic grey and glass cubic structure containing a state-of-the-art museum and art gallery, is at the forefront of Plymouth’s ongoing cultural regeneration. Opened at the end of 2020, this architectural icon transformed the former museum, library and St Luke’s church buildings.. Alongside Plymouth Art University’s Arts Institute, this redevelopment forms the heart of Plymouth’s new Cultural Quarter. Inside, permanent exhibits tell the story of England’s Ocean City, from vast ship figureheads in the lobby to the excellent 100 Journeys exhibit showcasing the momentous voyages that have set out from Plymouth over the centuries.

EATING IN PLYMOUTH: OUR PICKS Imperial Hotel ££ Family-run hotel with lovely rooms and self-contained flats, five minutes from the Hoe.

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Watery adventures, indoors and out

Discover Plymouth’s Cultural Quarter

The Royal Navy’s gin history 1

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HIGHLIGHTS # 1 Lorem ipsum # 2 # 3 # 4 THE GUIDE

Ocean City

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Plymouth is a mainline stop on the London– Penzance rail route. The city centre is quite sprawling and can be hilly. You can get between the waterfront areas by ferry or water taxi; the tourist office can provide a leaflet outlining all available water links. For longer distances, Plymouth Citybus is the main bus provider. Be aware that the Barbican district has some cobbled and uneven streets.

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GETTING AROUND

Britain’s ‘Ocean City’, Plymouth has long been a city of seafarers. A string of voyagers set out from here, among them the Mayflower Pilgrims, Captain James Cook and Sir Francis Drake, who began his circumnavigation of the globe here. Home to Europe’s largest naval base and the second biggest fresh fish market in England, Plymouth is still intrinsically linked to the sea. Badly bombed during WWII, and hastily rebuilt, Plymouth’s city centre is defined by functionality, rather than beauty. But pockets of historic architecture remain, while an exciting new Cultural Quarter are creating a city that deserves a second look.

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FROM JULY 2024

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MARITIME HISTORY | GETTING ON THE WATER | GIN

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All experiences are now confined to the main, wide column. The narrow external columns will only feature sidebars, tips and map keys. This simplifies the arrangement of the content, as well as offering better scanability.

ē Prague Main Station (400m)

Interesting street(s) Interesting place(s)

HIGHLIGHTS 1 The Box SIGHTS 2 Black Friar’s Distillery 3 National Marine Aquarium ACTIVITIES 4 Mount Batten Watersports 5 Southwest SUP 6 Tinside Lido EATING 1 Imperial Hotel 2 Crowne Plaza 3 Boringdon Hall 4 Salsa

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Walking Tour

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Victorian Guidhall

Mayflower Museum

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Devon’s biggest city lies within surprisingly easy reach of nature, from quiet beaches to tranquil river valleys. Location is one of Plymouth’s biggest selling points. Perched on the coast at Devon’s western border, this waterside city is within day-tripping distance of some of the southwest’s top attractions. It’s less than a 20-minute drive to the edge of Dartmoor, Cornwall is just a ferry ride across the Tamar, and South Devon’s coastal highlights are all less than an hour away. Moving eastwards from the city leads to some of the most underrated beaches in Devon, as well as some of the best views on the South West Coast Path. And tucked along the Devon– Cornwall border, the Tamar Valley AONB is a rich landscape where heritage and nature collide.

Dartmoor

TIME FROM PLYMOUTH: 45 MINS

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Dartmoor’s tors are legendary. Though they look like they were dropped upon the landscape by a giant hand, these freestanding hilltop outcrops of granite were formed from molten rock some 280 million years ago and left exposed by millennia of erosion. The bizarre shapes of these stacks and monoliths have inspired humankind for centuries. Some were used as places of worship by Dartmoor’s ancient inhabitants, others have inspired folklore and legends that persist to this day. There are over 160 tors in all. Some, like the face-shaped Combestone Tor, can be seen from the road, while others require a walk. For the best views, try High Willhays (the highest point in the park), Leather Tor or Black Tor.

Bike routes for two-wheeled fun

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Nearby stands a statue of Sir Francis Drake: explorer, privateer and mayor of Plymouth, who, according to popular legend, played bowls in the Hoe while awaiting the Spanish Armada in 1588.

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PLYMOUTH DEVON & CORNWALL

End at the 9 Mayflower Museum. Allow a little time for a visit to learn more about the story of the Pilgrim Fathers, as well as the history – and impact – of English colonisation.

At the eastern end, heavy stone walls enclose the 4 Royal Citadel, a 17th-century fortress still in use by the military today, and overlooking the sea is the iconic red and white 5 Smeaton’s Tower

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Pause for views from the top of the 6 Belvedere ‘Wedding Cake’, a grandiose Victorian structure with three tiers of colonnaded terraces, then take the steps down to follow the coast road around to 7 Sutton Harbour. Follow Southside St into 8 The Barbican, an area of cobbled streets, historic architecture and quirky shops.

Follow Armada Way down to reach 2 The Hoe, a clifftop park with unbeatable views of Plymouth Sound and several notable sights. Front and centre, the towering 3 Plymouth Naval Memorial commemorates over 23,000 sailors of WWI and WWII who have no known grave.

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1.2km; 1½ hours

lighthouse. Originally built on Eddystone Reef in 1759, it was moved to the Hoe in the 1880s.

Discover Plymouth’s sights and delve into its maritime history with this city centre walking tour, setting out from the striking 1 Victorian Guildhall at the heart of the city.

The Crescent

LENGTH

THE GUIDE

START

FROM JULY 2024

Discover Plymouth’s sights and delve into its maritime history with this city centre walking tour

Dartmoor’s cinematic landscapes are a joy to explore on two wheels. There’s an extensive network of routes, bridleways and byways, covering everything from challenging mountain trails to gentler paved paths. One of the best is the 11-mile Granite Way, running along an old railway line from Okehampton to Lydford. Paved, traffic-free and mostly flat, this popular route crosses the 165m-long Meldon Viaduct, affording spectacular views of Meldon Reservoir’s dam. Or for moorland views and majestic tors, try the ride from Princetown to Burrator Reservoir. There are two route options: one follows the old Prince-

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GETTING AROUND Dartmoor’s public transport network is sadly less than comprehensive. Bus services exist between most towns and villages, although often only a few times a day, so a little planning is required to explore without a car. Two additional bus services run seasonally, the Dartmoor Explorer and the Haytor Hoppa. If driving, be prepared for single-lane roads, tight bends, narrow bridges and animals on the road. The speed limit on the moors is 40mph.

BEYOND PLYMOUTH DEVON & CORNWALL

A quick-guide (Start, End and Length/Duration) has also been added.

P LY M O U T H ’ S M A R I T I M E H I S T O RY WA L K I N G T O U R

THE GUIDE

The copy for Walking Tours is now broken up into easierto-scan paragraphs. The map will now also include boxes containing smaller notes relating to the tour, allowing for more space allocation to the main text.

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Accommodation Listings THE GUIDE DEVON & CORNWALL

£ Cheap ££ Moderate £££ Pricey

Exeter

p291

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre. 1

2 Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed. 3 Southernhay House £££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse. 4 Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

Torquay

p293

Townhouse £ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed. Southernhay House ££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse. Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

Totnes

p294

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre. Townhouse £ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

Dartmouth 334

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century

p294

townhouse just outside the city centre. Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed. Southernhay House £££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse. Townhouse £££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

Plymouth

p298

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre. £ 1

2 Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed. 3 Southernhay House ££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse. 4 Townhouse £££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

Dartmoor

p301

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre. Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed. Southernhay House £££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse.

North Devon

p305

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre. 1

Padstow

p307

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre. 1

2 Townhouse ££ Cosy and

seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed. 3 Southernhay House £££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse.

friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

3 Southernhay House ££

Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse.

Southernhay House £££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse.

Southernhay House ££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse.

4 Townhouse £££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

Isles of Scilly

Townhouse £££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

Penzance

St Agnes

p313

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre.

Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

Southernhay House ££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse.

St Ives

Mousehole

p317

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre.

2 Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with

Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with

Tresco

p322

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre. Southernhay House £££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse.

Falmouth

p324

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre. 1

3 Southernhay House ££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse.

p311

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre.

Fowey

p329

Globe Backpackers ££ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre. 1

Southernhay House £££ Contemporary luxury, quirky decor and quality food in a beautiful Georgian townhouse.

2 Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

p312

Globe Backpackers £ Private rooms in a converted 18th-

Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes and breakfast hampers in bed.

2 Townhouse ££ Cosy and seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

seriously stylish B&B with friendly vibes, gorgeous decor and breakfast hampers in bed.

Newquay

p321

1 Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre.

4 Townhouse £££ Cosy and

Tintagel

p320

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre.

p322

Globe Backpackers £ Dorms and private rooms in a converted 18th-century townhouse just outside the city centre.

DEVON & CORNWALL

FROM JULY 2024

Places we love

century townhouse just outside the city.

THE GUIDE

There will be a Where To Stay listings spread at the end of the section. Accommodation for the Defining Places will also include a number reference for its corresponding map.

St Michael’s Mount, Penzance

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YARR A VALLEY VICTORIA

HELP ME PICK:

Yarra Valley Wineries The Yarra Valley has more than 300 wineries and approximately 100 cellar doors scattered around its rolling, vine-cloaked hills, and is recognised as Victoria’s oldest wine region – the first vines were planted at Yering Station in 1838. The region produces cool-climate, food-friendly drops, such as chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot gris, as well as full-bodied reds. The smaller family-run wineries are equal to the large-scale producers, offering a less pretentious experience.

Where to sip if you love… Classic and historic Smith winery The enchanted Smith has survived miraculously intact since 1902, and it’s hit a 50-year winning streak producing Australia’s most distinctive brut sparkling wines. Yering Farm Wines A rustic, family-owned little cellar door in an old hay shed with lovely views. Aficionados say the wines have a fresh, light quality that comes from the mild climate and pure sea air.

resulting in complex and savoury wines. The cellar door is a small room with a barrel spittoon centre stage and a couch for when you need a moment to let the magnificence of Yarra Pinot sink in.

Chill Aussie vibes Hanzell Sit at one of Hanzell’s picnic tables and sip a chardonnay or pinot noir flight as the on-winery chef fires up the barbie. Coldstream Hills Chardonnay, pinot noir and velvety merlot are the prime picks at this relaxed vineyard with a beautiful tasting terrace and guided walks with a glass through the vines.

Natural and sustainable

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YARR A VALLEY VICTORIA

FROM JULY 2024

THE GUIDE

Where a region has a number of similar Experiences or POIs, they can be grouped together in the Help Me Pick spread, featuring a list of the places, as well extra information such as when to to go, booking info and other useful information.

THE GUIDE

Help Me Pick

Yering Station (above) Victoria’s first vineyard, and home to the heady shirazviognier blend. It’s a chill spot with generous pours.

Sevens The winemakers here champion sustainable methods, growing grapes biodynamically without artificial pesticides and solar-powering operations. Toast with effortlessly elegant fumé blanc and ‘cabernetlover’s merlot’.

Oakridge The vineyard is dry-grown and the winemaking style is French-inspired,

Matt Hill Vines Get back to nature at this sustainable hillside winery that feels worlds

apart from everything. The bio and citrusy rosé of syrah is the start here.

Proposal-worthy views Kollar Winery High atop Spring Hill beside oaks and with a panoramic terrace tasting space, this is the home of silky pinot noirs and merlots. After your tasting, head to Viewpoint for top-of-the-world vistas.

Inspired food and wine pairings Sinskey Vineyards Gourmet bites from artisan salumi to single-origin chocolate hit high notes together alongside lowkey cabernets and merlots. TarraWarra Estate This is a convivial bistro and winery in a striking building. Sip away in the bistro or take your flight and laze on the grassy knolls with a charcuterie board to graze on.

Scan this QR code for a full list of wineries

HOW TO When to go For relaxed tastings, spring or early summer is the best time. It’s dry and warm but not too hot and the region is just starting to bustle.

Book ahead If you’re making your own itinerary, check ahead as some operate on a reservations-based system.

Before you go Be sure to have a light meal so you’re not having your first tasting on an empty stomach. Some wineries serve bites; otherwise snack in between.

Budget Some cellars charge a fee for tasting, but this is usually redeemable upon purchase. Budget around $100 a day for tours.

DIY or Guided Tour Exploring the Yarra on your own gives you great freedom when it comes to picking and choosing your wineries and deciding how long you linger in each one. The downside is that someone in your group will need to be the designated driver to ferry you around the vineyards. To get around that, use the Yarra Designated Driver app to hail a responsible driver. Another option is to bike between wineries on the Warburton Rail Trail, with fair-priced rental bikes available from any of Yarra Bikes (bike-wine.com.au) four outlets in the area. Either way, some advance planning is recommended to decide your route and check if you need to book ahead. Guided tours start at around $100 per

day, with options to suit almost everyone. In general, the smaller the group, the pricer the tour, but many operators also allow you to craft your own itinerary. Grapes & Vines (g-and-r-yarra.com.au) offer slow, scenic routes through the valley with all inclusive rates and four tastings in every tour, while Valley Wine Tours (valleywine. com.au) specialise in back-road vineyards, historic wineries and family-owned operations. There’s a daily ‘join-in’ tour that shuttles guests to four wineries and provides a gourmet lunch. For a more active day, Yarra Bikes organises easy to moderate cycle tours with three tastings and picnic lunches.

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