Close to Home: An Insider's Guide

Close to home THE ESSENTIAL INSIDER’S GUIDE TO HILTON HEAD, DAUFUSKIE, BLUFFTON, BEAUFORT AND THE SEA ISLANDS

destinations

Close to home THE ESSENTIAL INSIDER’S GUIDE TO HILTON HEAD, DAUFUSKIE, BLUFFTON, BEAUFORT AND THE SEA ISLANDS

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The beautiful thing about living in the Lowcountry is there’s always something new for you to experience.

In creating this handy guide for locals, we avoid the most popular tourist attractions and focus on the best kept secrets of the Lowcountry.

Before we can truly dive into the experience that awaits you in these gems of the Carolina coast, we need to address the elephant in the room.

As of this writing, the state of South Carolina is under a mandatory stayat-home order with exceptions for essential travel like going to work or buying groceries. We don’t know what the situation will be when you read this, so use your best judgement. If the order has been lifted, you are free to roam about the Lowcountry. If not, here is your must-see list when you’re finally allowed to leave the house.

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Historical attractions

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Fort Howell Fort Howell was the last of four forts built on Hilton Head Island, after the Union forces made an early attack and subsequent occupation on Nov. 7, 1861. After the battle was over and the Confederate troops and plantation owners retreated, the occupying Union soldiers freed all the slaves on Hilton Head Island, making them the first slaves to be freed during the Civil War. Mitchellville Freedom Park In 1865, when the Emancipation Proclamation was signed and most of the formerly enslaved African-American population was trying to adjust to their new post-war freedom, the people of Mitchelville were busy creating a completely new, self-governed culture that would be the guidepost for generations to follow. Mitchelville was established in 1862, shortly after Hilton Head’s fall to the Union in November 1861.

Gullah Museum The mission of the Gullah Museum is to revive, restore and preserve the Hilton Head Gullah history for the benefit of all – lest we forget. The museum is committed to maintaining Gullah customs, traditions, language, stories, songs and structures.

Rediscover the hidden side of Hilton Head

BY EDDY HOYLE

Soon we will tentatively stick our heads out of our tortoise shells, step outside, look around and rejoin the world (post COVID-19). We will be grateful for the opportunity to enjoy the beauty, the invigorating social interaction, and the opportunities to simply have fun here in the Lowcountry.

After all, that’s why we live in this richly diverse, stimulating, and incredibly beautiful location. So get out and re-energize, renew and rediscover Hilton Head. Be a tourist and see our community as if it was your very first time.

The North End of Hilton Head has a laid-back vibe with nooks and crannies of fun and relaxing spots. Many are hidden gems to experience tucked away on back roads. Relax, explore, and appreciate what travelers from around the world come to experience. From visiting tabby ruins to the excitement of riding a jet ski or taking a cruise on a pirate ship, there is something for everyone.

There’s rowing and sailing, dolphin watch cruises, and you can even rent a pontoon boat for a group adventure on the water. If you want to learn more about our ecosystems in the Lowcountry, there are plenty of workshops offered at the Coastal Discovery Museum where you can learn about dragonflies, right whales, oyster shell recycling, hummingbirds, and bird-friendly backyards.

Jarvis Creek Park has a cool walking trail around a lake and pavilions for picnics — and it’s the perfect place to see alligators. The quiet, serene beach at Mitchelville is away from the bustling crowds and most tourists don’t even know it exists. There are tons of shells to collect and the beach faces Port Royal Sound rather than the Atlantic, so even the water is calmer with fewer waves. There also are significant historical places. It’s easy to imagine that hallowed places exist only in remote or exotic locales. Yet many interesting historical sites are easily accessible, and visiting these lesser-known sites can be a profoundly moving experience for the hands of men and women have built sites that are now repositories of wisdom.

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Gullah Heritage Tours Learn about the culture of Gullah people during a two-hour bus tour narrated by native Gullah who are descendants of enslaved people. You will travel through the Gullah communities as the distinctive Gullah language, traditional foods and recipes, music, religion, social structure and folktales are woven into an interactive educational and entertaining experience.

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Coastal Discovery Museum Visit the Coastal Discovery Museum where you can explore the 68-acre Historic Honey Horn property, learn about our region’s history, culture and art, and discover how to make a difference by actively caring for our environment. A trail system takes you through multiple environments and past many historic structures. Enjoy the ancient trees, take in the view from the boardwalk, see the Marsh Tacky horses grazing in the wide-open fields, and envision what the island was like before it was developed. Visit the butterfly habitat, the carnivorous plant bog and the heritage garden.

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Cultural attractions

White Point Pinckney Island National Wildlife Refuge offers a variety of opportunities to explore and enjoy the great outdoors from sunrise to sunset every day. You can observe and photograph wildlife, go fishing, and explore over 14 miles of hiking and bicycling trails. Keep your eyes peeled for a variety of wading and shorebirds in the salt marsh. Brightly colored painted buntings are fairly easy to spot and nesting is in full-swing at Ibis Pond during the spring and early summer. For those who make the long trek to White Point (7.8 miles round-trip), a small, primitive beach and breathtaking views await.

Queen Chapel African Methodist-Episcopal Church The AME denomination experienced rapid growth after the Civil War and Queen Chapel was among the early churches founded. In 1865, Charleston-born AME Bishop D.A. Payne brought a group of missionaries to Hilton Head Island. They met with Rev. James Lynch, who had come to South Carolina in 1863 to perform missionary work among the freedmen of Mitchelville.

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Cherry Hill School Cherry Hill School is an historic school built for AfricanAmerican students in 1937. It is a simple, weathered schoolhouse. The community built and helped maintain the school to educate the descendants of the former slave town of Mitchelville, the first community to mandate education in the South. This one-room schoolhouse operated until 1954. St. James Baptist Church purchased the school in 1956, and it was listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 2012.

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Must-see landmarks Eat and drink Hilton Head’s North End is no slouch when it comes to food and drink. Directly from the docks to the dinner plate, fresh seafood abounds. Sweet local oysters are served up fried, steamed and raw. Shrimp is a mainstay of the fishing industry, and whether you love coconut shrimp, scampi, fried or grilled shrimp, or shrimp burgers, it’s widely available. There are restaurants that offer fine Italian cuisine, good old-fashioned burgers, barbecue and Southern fried chicken. If sushi and Asian food interests you, the North End has you covered. There are tapas, steak, and great Mexican food and pizza. Whether you like a waterfront venue or an eclectic pub setting, fine dining or a casual atmosphere, your desires, cravings and taste buds can be satisfied in this locale.

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Local secrets Veteran’s Memorial A pristine tribute to the fallen and missing soldiers involved in past wars is tucked away along the Broad Creek marsh on Shelter Cove Lane. You’ll find a stone monument with the inscriptions of the wars the U.S. has been involved in, benches for viewing and reflection, open spaces and a small observation dock overlooking Broad Creek. It’s a great place to exercise with a pet.

Hilton Head Island Farmers Market Find fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and local goods at this underrated weekly market at the Coastal Discovery Museum. Products are locally grown or prepared. Many popular family farms have a presence there, including Three Sisters Farm, Brant Family Farm, Ebenezer Greens and Whippoorwill Farms.

Check it out from 9 am. to 1 p.m. each Tuesday.

Beach parking pass If you live or own a home within Hilton Head town limits, consider purchasing a $30 Beach Parking Pass.

The sticker, placed on the driver’s side rear bumper, gives you prime shaded parking at Islanders Beach Park and Driessen Beach Park, and will pay for itself in just a few beach days. Plus, it instantly identifies you as an island resident to other island residents.

You matter!

“Today you are You, that is truer than true.

There is no one alive who is Youer than You.” — Dr. Seuss

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Uncover the secrets of Hilton Head’s South End

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It’s a happening place on the South End of Hilton Head Island – it’s where the St. Paddy’s Day Parade takes place, and it’s the home of the PGA Tour RBC Heritage Golf Tournament that brings in thousands of spectators each year (with the exception of this year, of course). The beach at Coligny is flanked by restaurants and shops, and there’s usually a large volleyball game near the everpopular Tiki Hut. The South End has a different vibe that draws young and old alike with a variety of nightlife, from jazz and dueling pianos to acoustic music and rock ‘n roll. There are family-friendly activities like biking and miniature golf. Plenty of art galleries and upscale shops grace this locale, and there are interesting historical sites for the curious.

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BY EDDY HOYLE

Stoney-Baynard Ruins Circa 1790 Captain Jack Stoney built a magnificent antebellum plantation house overlooking Calibogue Sound, and now the remnants of the house and slave quarters are tabby ruins. The property changed hands when Stoney lost it to William Baynard in 1840. The plantation was raided and served as Union headquarters during the Civil War before it was burned. The ruins are located in Sea Pines and are listed on the National Register of Historic Sites.

Numerous ghost stories and reports of paranormal activity surround this historic site.

Sea Pines Shell Ring This mysterious landmark dates back 4,000 years and is the oldest known archaeological site on Hilton Head Island. The ring is made up of hundreds of thousands of oysters, clams and mussels. It is one of 50 known shell rings found along the coasts of South Carolina, Georgia and Florida, all of them dating back 3,000 to 5,000 years. It is located inside of the Sea Pines Forest Preserve.

Braddock's Point Cemetery This historic cemetery is not too far from the famous 18th fairway of Harbour Town Golf Links inside of Sea Pines Resort. Many of the tombstones in the cemetery are made of hand-inscribed concrete.

The grave of Emory Campbell’s great-grandmother dates back to 1861. The site was restored in 2014 by retired manufacturing engineer J. Wendell Grayson and Richard "Skeet" Williams Jr., who has family buried there.

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Historical attractions

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Must-see landmarks

Liberty Oak The majestic and graceful limbs of this centuries-old, moss-draped oak tree form a stunning setting along with the sparkling waters of Harbour Town Yacht Basin and the Harbour Town Lighthouse in the background. Under the tree you will find the Charles Fraser Memorial, a commemoration of eco-development pioneer Charles Fraser.

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Zion Cemetery and Baynard Mausoleum Built beside the first church on the island, Zion Chapel of Ease (now long gone), the Baynard Mausoleum is the oldest standing structure on the island. This 2.8-acre plot of land is an outstanding source for insights about our community’s history. The names of each person cut into the headstones are the names of people who left their marks on this island, including several Revolutionary War patriots.

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Hilton Head Rear Range Lighthouse Hilton Head Rear Range Light is the island’s one true lighthouse. Standing on ground that was once part of Leamington Plantation, the tower is also known as Leamington Lighthouse. In the mid-1980s the lighthouse was incorporated into the Arthur Hills Golf Course. The lighthouse also boasts a resident ghost. During a fierce hurricane in 1898 keeper Adam Fripp died while tending to his light.

Biscuit of the Month: The Usual Hilton Head’s South End has options galore. From takeand-bake pizza to the finest steakhouses, every palate can be satisfied. There are Cajun and Creole, Chinese, Japanese and Thai. And what makes dining on Hilton Head so special is that there are very few chain restaurants – most establishments are private and proud – and that means exceptional cuisine. One of the many unique establishments is Bad Biscuit on Dunnagans Alley. This month’s featured biscuit is “The Usual." You always wanted to say “gimme the usual” when you walked into a place, right? This biscuit special changes sometimes. Just say you will have “The Usual” and go for it! Learn more at bad-biscuit.com.

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Audubon Newhall Preserve Hidden off Palmetto Bay Road, these 50 acres of walking trails will connect you with nature. Just be sure to go on a dry day, unless you’ve got a good pair of mudders. Along the different trails, you will see many types of plants and trees that include native and non-native flora. A must-see within the preserve is a pocosin, a wetland area that was once a characteristic feature of barrier islands.

A boardwalk located at the end of the Newhall Trail will lead you right to it.

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Lawton Stables Lawton Stables is a place the entire family can enjoy. Horseback riding might be one of the best ways to get a true feeling for the Lowcountry. Trail rides wander through forests in over 600 acres of the Sea Pines Forest Preserve.

Pony rides are available to children 7 and under, and the animal farm provides a wonderful collection of small animals to feed and enjoy. Don’t forget to bring quarters for the feed machine.

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Areas to explore

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Local secrets Arrow Road bike path Near the entrance of Hilton Head Island Motorcoach Resort, a 2-mile bike path is tucked away between Arrow Road and Wexford Plantation. It links back up with Arrow Road near Helmsman Way, giving South Enders safe bike access to Crossings Park and Palmetto Bay Marina. With no threat of traffic and plenty of straight, smooth asphalt, it’s a great spot to see how fast you can peddle.

VILLAGE AT WEXFORD 843.686.KIDS

Vanishing Swamp Explore a secluded forest on the boardwalk through the Vanishing Swamp. Getting there is half the fun. Start at the Greenwood entrance of Sea Pines Forest Preserve, and follow the dirt trail to the Rice Field Boardwalk wooden platform.

When you come to a fork, take a left and follow Bridle Trail. When you reach Fish Island Trail, hang a right and follow the boardwalk over the swamp.

Pedestrian Underpass Bridge Avoid biking across busy U.S. 278 by using the bridge underpass that connects the public pathways of the Shelter Cove area and the Palmetto Dunes area. If you are on the Palmetto Dunes side, follow the “bike path to Shelter Cove” sign. If you are on the Shelter Cove side, follow the “bike path to the beach” sign.

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The truly interesting thing about today’s Bluffton is that it is many things to many people. A decade or so ago, you’d probably define it as a sleepy little river town in the midst of unprecedented growth. A decade before that, it stood out mostly as an enclave for artists and eccentrics who marched to their own beats. A decade before that, it was a small town where a handful of residents all knew each other and would ask after your mama when they saw you at the Piggly Wiggly.

Today, it’s still all of those things on some level. The difference being, of course, that we no longer have a Piggly Wiggly. What we have are thriving mixed-use living and shopping areas supporting a vibrant community of newcomers, with a dash of Lowcountry sophistication, thanks to the influence of Palmetto Bluff just up the road from Old Town. You can call it progress, you can call it change, but ultimately, it’s something that defies definition. And there’s nothing more Bluffton than defying definition.

Bluffton is full of charm and personality

BY BARRY KAUFMAN

Historical attractions Palmetto Bluff ruins During the gilded age, Astors, Whitneys and Vanderbilts regularly made their way down to the opulent four-story, 72-room mansion of Richard T. Wilson Jr. on the banks of the May River, which he named Palmetto Bluff.

Destroyed by fire in 1926, its stone ruins make for a captivating scene on the Wilson Village Green in Palmetto Bluff.

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The Heyward House Museum Headquarters for the Historic Bluffton Foundation (formerly the Bluffton Historic Preservation Society), the Heyward House has been maintained to offer a glimpse into antebellum life in Bluffton. Spared during the “Burning of Bluffton,” the Heyward House still houses a mirror etched with a warning from a Union soldier: “Flee, rebels. Hell is here.”

The Secession Oak On July 31, 1844, a group of planters huddled under the boughs of a live oak tree to hear Robert Barnwell Rhett speak. His impassioned speech spurred the crowd toward secession, igniting the “Bluffton movement” which would lead to South Carolina leaving the Union. NOTE: While viewable from the road, the Secession Oak is on private property. Please be respectful of that.

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Rose Hill Mansion An antebellum estate that has stood silent watch over Bluffton’s history, the mansion is today open to tours. As you stroll its rooms, you’ll absorb the tale of how a former plantation home housed Union troops, was destroyed by fire, then abandoned and has risen anew each time.

©COURT ATKINS GROUP

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The Garvin-Garvey House Perched on the bluff at Oyster Factory Park, you’ll find a beautiful reminder of Bluffton’s past and a tribute to one man’s march to freedom. One of the finest examples of a freedman’s cottage, the house was built by Frederick Garvey following his emancipation and was restored to tell his story for generations to come.

Cultural attractions Calhoun Street If there is one place that best encapsulates the breadth of Bluffton’s charms, it’s Calhoun Street. Here you’ll find the quirky art galleries that give the town its eccentricity, the restaurants that define its recent culinary prominence and the small-town Southern charm that has captivated the world.

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Live Oak Community Arts Center This one you might need to wait for, as it hasn’t been built yet. But when it is completed, this facility will house Live Oak Christian Church and Main Street Youth Theater, giving Bluffton another venue for outstanding live theater.

May River Theatre A long-running institution in Old Town Bluffton is its own community theater located in Ulmer Auditorium inside Town Hall. Staging smaller productions with a cast of local talents, May River Theatre always has something new and exciting on the schedule.

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Church of the Cross Of the buildings spared from the Burning of Bluffton, none is as iconic as Church of the Cross. Nestled on a high bank overlooking the May River, the unique Southern Gothic architecture of this church is best seen against the rays of the setting sun over the water.

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Must-see landmarks

Hilton Head Preparatory School

2020 Niche Rankings #1 College Prep Private High School in South Carolina #2 K-12 Private School in South Carolina #1 Boarding School in South Carolina #1 K-12 Private School in Beaufort County Top 13% of all K-12 Private Schools in America Inspiring Students to Be Exceptional

Eat and drink Bluffton’s culinary scene has exploded in recent years, offering everything from gourmet cuisine and farm-to-table fare that has earned national acclaim. Whether it’s classic slow-smoked barbecue or oysters and shrimp fresh from the water, there’s a flavor to Bluffton you won’t find anywhere else.

Hilton Head Preparatory School

Please Call for a Personal Tour | www.HHPrep.org 8 Fox Grape Road | Hilton Head Island, SC 29928 Mrs. Bobbie Somerville, Director of Admissions bsomerville@hhprep.org | 843.671.2286 A private, independent school serving students in preschool through twelfth grade

TUITION ASSISTANCE AVAILABLE

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Farm fresh The Farmers Market of Bluffton continues to be closed during the pandemic but is offering an awesome “get & go” option, with one person at a time at a table, social distancing at all times. Check out farmersmarketbluffton.org or find them on Facebook for the latest offerings.

Local secrets As you stroll through Old Town Bluffton, keep your eyes open for tiny bronze crab sculptures tucked away in public spaces. There are 10 of them in all.

While you're exploring Oyster Factory Park, be sure to follow the stretch of oyster shells and spartina that leads away from the public dock. This winding trail takes you by the remains of an old staircase leading up to the Garvin-Garvey House.

GUARD DOG to PROTECT

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88A Main Street | P.O. Box 23783 | Hilton Head Island, SC 29925 843.681.4340 | Fax: 843.681.8373 | SeacoastInsurance.com kboardman@seacoastinsurance.com MAY 2020 + LocalLifeSC.com

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Journey back to a simpler time on Daufuskie Island

BY BARRY KAUFMAN PHOTOS BY HOLGER OPDERBECK

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Accessible only by boat, Daufuskie Island always has been an island unto itself. Its residents exult in the quieter lifestyle this isolation provides, content with the knowledge that their neighbors are friends and that the island they share remains one of the few unspoiled sanctuaries in the modern resort era of the Lowcountry. It’s a lifestyle that prizes serenity and demands a certain amount of self-sustainability of its residents. But that’s not to say Daufuskie is a hermitage. Residents welcome visitors every day, happily showing them around.

While you’re here, expect to find yourself moving at a slower pace. You’ll see the odd car here or there, but by and large the transportation is by golf cart. And as you explore, you’ll find an island defined by its colorful cast of characters, its unique history and the charm of a culture that could only be found on this little island on the edge of the world.

Historical attractions

Bloody Point Lighthouse & Museum A fascinating building in its own right, the island’s biggest museum is housed inside the old two-story lighthouse, where a light in the front dormer window would guide ships toward Savannah Harbor. After being purchased by Wick Scurry, the building was transformed into a walk-through love letter to the island’s unique history.

Billie Burn Museum Established in 2003, the Billie Burn Museum honors one of the island’s most cherished icons while sharing the story of how Daufuskie residents made their living off of the land in the days before the oyster canneries set up shop.

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First Union African Baptist Church Notable not only for its beautiful architecture and 135 years of history, the First Union African Baptist Church is also the site of a replica “praise house” built in 2002. Tours run regularly, letting you see how native islanders worshipped and lived.

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Freeport Marina You can’t really ascribe a “downtown” to Daufuskie, but Freeport Marina is as close as it gets. Amazing views over the water, open space to sit and bask in the sunlight and all the shopping and dining you need to fill up before exploring await.

The Iron Fish Gallery and Studio Daufuskie’s artist in residence Chase Allen has captured national headlines for his studio tucked away in the trees. His handcrafted sculptures of fish, crabs, sea turtles and mermaids speak to the waters surrounding Daufuskie, and the fierce creativity it fosters.

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Cultural attractions

Must-see landmarks Oyster Union Society Hall It’s not much to look at now, but at one point this two-story building was the social nexus of Daufuskie. Until the canneries closed in the 1950s, the oyster industry was king and it was here that workers met to celebrate and socialize.

Mary Fields School Seeing it from the road, it might be easy to miss the significance of this squat two-room structure. However, it was here that Pat Conroy served as a schoolteacher, inspiring his novel, “The Water is Wide.”

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Daufuskie Community Farm Pet the goats and stroll the grounds as you immerse yourself in the selfsustaining lifestyle of Daufuskie. Here, residents grow their own food and raise livestock. Be sure to check out the artisan village over by the “wacky shack.”

Silver Dew Winery On the grounds of the Bloody Point Lighthouse is a small green shed that once served as oil storage for the rear lighthouse. Today, it makes delicious varietals, some of which originate in the nearby vineyard where native scuppernong grow.

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Native Americans had a strong presence on Daufuskie Island, with residents finding arrowheads, shell rings and even “boat holes,” tidal docks around which fishing villages were built.

Beyond its historical significance, Bloody Point Lighthouse has a darker reputation as a hotbed for hauntings. Be on the lookout for the spirits of lighthouse keepers long gone.

Eat & drink As you’d expect from the culinary scene of a place where everyone has a boat by necessity, seafood is king on Daufuskie. Only a handful of restaurants call Daufuskie home, but on their menus you’ll find the freshest shrimp around as well as the iconic Daufuskie delicacy, deviled crab. Perfectly spiced and served right out of the shell, you’ll be coming back for seconds.

And when you want to whet your whistle, you’ll find Daufuskie has a long history of potent potables. Try some of the local scrap iron, moonshine that earned its name from the scrap iron that distillers would hide their wares in when smuggling it into Savannah during prohibition. Then of course there is Daufuskie’s very own rum from Daufuskie Island Rum Co.

Along the walls of Daufuskie Island Crab Co. you’ll find a slew of memorabilia from Wick Scurry’s collection.

Among the items you’ll find Confederate currency, historic finds from Daufuskie’s beaches and Native American artifacts including a hand-carved canoe.

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Old Sheldon Church Ruins

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destinations

Hanging out in Beaufort?

You lucky thing, you.

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BY LISA ALLEN PHOTOS BY THE BEAUFORT-PORT ROYAL CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU When people first see Beaufort, their reaction is similar. Mouths fall open, eyes widen, and soft ‘wows!’ are uttered in reverence that a place like this still exists. Gorgeous antebellum mansions, Spanishmoss-draped trees, horse-drawn carriages, and a 1700s-era main (Bay) street that sidles up to an impeccably maintained park alongside the saltmarsh-lined Beaufort River.

Sailboats bob in the bay near a sentry-like bridge that swings rather that arches open for passing Intracoastal traffic.

But Beaufort isn’t just a pretty face. It embodies pivotal North American history from the past 500 years. No, not a typo. Beaufort is home to one of the first European settlements in America; excursions

by Blackbeard the pirate; Union Army hospitals; and the first schools for free slaves. Its modern history includes the settings for iconic films; great American author Pat Conroy; and well-earned perches atop the best of whatever categories for travel and leisure lists.

Tucked around town are nooks and crannies that reward explorers with awe-inspiring views, stunning architecture and food you’ll never forget in a location you can’t remember. That’s the point. Beaufort is ripe with secret spots for locals and a few lucky adventurers.

Downtown Marina

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History you can touch

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Reconstruction Era National Monument, 712 Craven Street The National Park established in 2017 highlights local efforts to integrate millions of formerly enslaved African-Americans into society during and after the Civil War. The monument really is a string of locations throughout the area in which that work was done.

The Arsenal, 713 Craven Street The Arsenal was built in 1798 to house the Beaufort Volunteer Artillery and its weapons after the Revolutionary War. It now houses the Beaufort History Museum and the Beaufort Visitors Center.

Places unlike any other National Cemetery Beaufort, 1601 Boundary Street Initially for Union soldiers who died at nearby hospitals, the cemetery later included Confederate soldiers and black Union soldiers. Military burials continue there.

Santa Elena Historial Center, 1501 Bay Street The museum gives the back story on one of the earliest European settlements in America just a few miles away at Parris Island Marine Corps Recruit Depot.

It was there that Spain set up the capital of La Florida in 1566, an area that extended to today’s St. Augustine, Fla.

Richard V. Woods Memorial Swing Bridge Named after a state trooper, the 1959 swing bridge is one of the few of its kind still in operation.

The Point The neighborhood is really why Beaufort is so darned memorable. Street after street there are enormous live oaks beside breathtaking homes that illustrate the best architecture of the 18th and 19th centuries. See it on foot, bike, carriage or car. Just see it.

John Mark Verdier House, 801 Bay Street The Federal-style mansion was built around 1804 by John Mark Verdier. He built his wealth by trading indigo and growing 1,000 acres of Sea Island cotton. The wellappointed house served as Union headquarters during the Civil War.

Shh!

Don’t tell them who told you There are quiet, our-of-the-way places to call your own all over town. Here are three.

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Explore the tiny park at the Pigeon Point boat landing.

There’s a swing and observation deck that are perfect for a mini mental vacation.

Wander through the graveyard at the Parish Church of St. Helena at 505 Church St. Some headstones date back to the 1700s.

©PHOTO BY JESSIE BAKER

How you should spend an afternoon Grab a swing in Henry C. Chambers Waterfront Park and watch the river.

Yes, the ocean isn’t far away, but it’s there and you’re here and you can’t think of a single good reason to move.

Bike the Spanish Moss Trail. Ten miles of former railway go through marshes, woods, and neighborhoods. The trail is quiet and well-maintained.

Signs along the way give insights into what you’re seeing.

Walking or carriage tour of historic Beaufort, led by tour guides who know their stuff. It’s a good way to get an overview of how Beaufort changed the country.

Fish off of the community dock on Lady’s Island right over the Woods bridge, past the boat landing.

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Sea Islands are perfect for breathing and easing

BY LISA ALLEN PHOTOS BY THE BEAUFORT-PORT ROYAL CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

The best part of the Sea Islands in Beaufort County is that they are much as they’ve been for hundreds of years, a combination of agriculture and wildness.

Generations later, family farmers continue to plant tomatoes, watermelons and U-pick produce and berries. Watermelon buses, still yellow from their days carting schoolchildren, chug up and down US 21 in season, their windows and part of their roofs removed so conveyor belts can load them up with hundreds of melons.

Horse Island has wild horses. Morgan Island has monkeys. (It’s a federal research center closed to the public.) Pritchard Island is accessible only

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by boat. St. Phillips is now part of Hunting Island State Park; its future is being drafted. Island upon barrier island, some still unnamed, means miles of water and marshes, woods and fields.

They invite exploration via car or bicycle to discover old plantation homes, pecan farms and tiny convenience stores. Look for boat landing signs to treat yourself to beautiful views of the web of rivers and creeks alive with wildlife, from sea birds to dolphins to little fiddler crabs. Send out a fishing line or cast net and see what arises.

It’s what coastal South Carolina once was: Rich farmland surrounded by an untamed palette of maritime forests, fields and saltmarshes.

History well preserved The Hunting Island lighthouse It was built in 1859 and rebuilt in 1875 after it was destroyed during the Civil War. Severe beach erosion made it necessary to relocate the lighthouse 1.3 miles inland in 1889. It’s again visible from the beach.

Fort Fremont The fort was built in 1899 on Lands End across the Beaufort River from the Naval Station to protect the dry dock and coaling station during the Spanish American War. It was decommissioned in 1921.

Penn Center It was built in 1865 as the first school for freed slaves. Today, it is a resource for education, historic preservation, and social justice for Gullah-Geechee people, who are descendants of formerly enslaved West and Central Africans.

Plantation culture still permeates Avenue of Oaks leading to Coffin Point Plantation The stunning half-mile archway of oaks leads to the imposing tabby-based plantation home built in 1801.

Brick Baptist Church Built in 1855 by enslaved people for white plantation owners, it was taken over by African-Americans when all the whites fled the Civil War in 1861.

Prayer houses The Eddings Point, Mary Jenkins and Coffin Point Community Praise Houses were built around 1900.They continue the practice of small places of worship built on plantations during slavery.

You won’t see these anywhere else The Lands End Light It’s there. I’ve seen it. About midnight on some nights, you can see a light floating along Lands End Road on St. Helena. Local lore is that it’s Pvt. Frank Quigley, who was shot in 1910 by a jealous husband.

Pickup truck vegetable and shrimp markets As you travel around St. Helena, you’ll occasionally see a pickup truck loaded with greens, head-on shrimp, or okra. Can’t get more farm to car than that.

Lands End beach It’s a quiet, locals-only spot for fishing or lazing while overlooking Parris Island and Hilton Head in the distance.

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destinations

Build some memories Walk the Boneyard The south end of Hunting Island is eroding, taking down tree after tree, which are “the bones.� It creates an unforgettable landscape.

Bike the trails on Hunting Island The state park has eight miles of beautiful trails through maritime forest and along the lagoon.

Go oystering All you need are Wellies, a hammer and a bucket.

Oh, and a saltwater fishing license.

What your stomach will find From soul food to seafood shacks to fine dining, you can find it all here. Most of the area restaurants have been here for years and they just keep getting better.

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Secret places for the locals Russ Point Boat Landing While there are wonderful views from every boat landing, you’re most likely to see dolphins swimming here in the Fripp Inlet.

The marsh boardwalk across from Hunting Island Look over the siderail to see scores of fiddler crabs. If you have children in tow, you might not get any farther.

Harbor Island beach Even though it’s a gated community, there is very limited access to its beach. When the few parking spots are taken, you have to wait for someone to leave or try another day, early.

No motel signs here This is a vacation mecca, from the sold-out-a-year-in-advance campground at Hunting Island to scores of rental condos and houses on Harbor and Fripp islands. Without a doubt, you can find an accommodation that suits you. But you won’t find a hotel or motel.

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