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LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

November 2012

$7.50

STRESS-FIX

AROMAOLOGY

©Aveda Corp.

Clinically proven to reduce feelings of stress. Network-proven business booster.

a LESS STRESS FOR YOUR BODY “Our culture is to help our guests live well every day, and this line totally embodies that to the fullest.” –Brigette Mire, Indira Salon Spa, Chicago, Illinois

Aveda’s stress-fix™ body massage combines the power of aromaology, touch and breath for an integrated approach to beauty and wellness that focuses on high-stress areas of the body. Our professionals — and guests — really feel the difference.

LESS STRESS FOR YOUR BUSINESS “Stress-fix ™ is selling like hotcakes!!!” –Jeffrey Richard Cipcic, Jeffrey Richard Salon, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Stress-fix™ concentrate, body lotion and soaking salts are the same Ecocert-certified organic products our therapists reach for in spas and salons. Guests reach for them too because this family of Ecocertcertified organic products is a great way to take the spa experience home with them.

LESS STRESS FOR OUR PLANET “Aveda obtains certified organic ingredients to create as little stress on our planet as possible.” – Cindy Angerhofer, PhD, Executive Director of Botanical Research, Aveda, Minneapolis, Minnesota

Stress-fix™ aromaology contains certified organic French lavender, lavandin and clary sage from small organic farms in northern Provence, France. This is possible through a partnership with Plantes Aromatiques du Diois, which specializes in the implementation of sustainable development and ensures high-quality essential oils, which can be fully traced from Soil to Bottle in bases that are Ecocert-certified organic. SM

Ready to experience the difference stress-fix™ can make? Do it as part of the Aveda network. Connect with us at 888.382.8332 (888.38.AVEDA) or through aveda.com to learn more.

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CONTENTS NOVEMBER 2 0 1 2

skin

VOLUME 27

N U M BE R 1 1

Happy Spa-lidays

TCA Peels in the Winter 27 7 Signs of Aging28 The Greatest Esthetician You’ve Never Heard Of! 34 Microdermabrasion in the Wintertime40 Skin News 43

winter specific spa therapies bring warmth and cheer page 62

spa

The Pain of Sciatica Vibroacoustic Therapy Happy Spa-lidays Spa News

7 Signs of Aging page 28

45 58 62 65

organic & wellness

business

5 Steps to Generating Revenue Through Guest Consultation 67 How to Market Your Spa Business During the Holidays68 The Financial Perils of Misclassifying Workers 74 Offer Clients Real Value 77 Fragrance Branding 80 Splash Retail 83 Holiday Chaos 86 Growing Your Career Path as an Entrepreneur 89 Thinking to a Higher Order 92 Biz News 95

How to Market Your Spa Business During the Holidays page 68

Beauty Edit page 108

image

All That Glitters is Gold! 107 Beauty Edit108 There’s Always a Reason to Celebrate! 112 Image News 121

Utopia Day Spa & Holistic Healing Center 97 Beau-tea98 Hydrating Spa Services 102 Organic & Wellness News 105

Beau-tea tea stations and spa services page 98

extras

From the Editor 6 Spa of the Month: Spa Eastman, Quebec, Canada 10 Recap: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach, CA 24 2012 Holiday Gift Guide46 Calendar of Events 124 Advertisers’ Index 130

Cover

courtesy of Franck Provost

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

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EDITOR

I

LOVE THIS TIME OF THE YEAR … THE COOLER weather, the extension of gratitude and the “busyness” that comes with the holiday season. While many cringe at how hectic life is right now, others thrive on it. Which group do you fall into? How do you handle the extra stress of the holidays? Are you feeling worn down? Are you having headaches? These types of physical symptoms are indicators that one’s life has been thrown out of balance. Over the next two months, remember to take care of yourself. Eat right, get enough sleep, receive spa services and take time to breathe! Take some tips from Teddy Lester’s article, “Holiday Chaos,” on page 86. Make sure your spa is prepared for the extra guests you will have in the next couple months. If I visited your spa today, would it pass a white glove inspection? Have you cleaned before putting up your holiday decorations? This is a key time for your team and your spa to shine and sparkle! Now is also an optimal opportunity to generate extra revenue from gift certificates and holiday gift packaged retail items, as consumers love these during the holiday season. Check out our beautiful holiday gift guide on page 46 for a wonderful selection of “must have” retail items for your spa! Are you trying to create a seasonal spa event for your clients? Maria Echelard-Calabresa offers indepth solutions and a cut-out timeline in her article, “There’s Always a Reason to Celebrate!” on page 112. A strategic blueprint equals a successful event! To all of my friends and family in the spa world, I wish you a happy, healthy and blessed holiday season! n —Denise R. Fuller, denise@lneonline.com

Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.5starformulators.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 www.lneonline.com e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Editor in Chief Denise R. Fuller denise@lneonline.com Art Director Sacha Smith sacha@lneonline.com Assistant Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Director of Sales Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Assistant Mayli Bueno mayli@lneonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Rob Trow • Ben Johnson, M.D. Lake Louise • Nina Curtis • Diane Buccola

Contributors Heidi Alessi Leon Alexander, Ph.D. Laura Allen Rhonda Allison Jennifer Anderson Avigail Berg-Panitz Maria Calabresa-Echelard Marizza Contreras

Rita Cook James Fulton, M.D., Ph.D. Nancy Griffin Jimm Harrison Terry Herman Eli Jones Teddy Lester Richard Linder

Janet McCormick Melissa Picoli Lydia Sarfati Olivia Smalley Dori Soukup David Suzuki Pamela Taylor Amanda Clinton Winter

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #183 on reader service card

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

of Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. © 2012 Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. Clarisonic is a registered trademark and Mia 2 is a trademark

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SPA

OF THE MONTH

A PLACE TO DECOMPRESS AND RECLAIM YOURSELF SPA EASTMAN, QUEBEC, CANADA by Terry Herman

A true destination spa provides a totally different experience than a hotel or resort amenity spa.

SPA EASTMAN, CANADA’S FIRST-EVER destination spa, is situated 90 minutes north of Montreal’s airport, on some of Quebec’s most scenic, exquisite land. Since 1977, the highly acclaimed, award-winning destination spa has been synonymous with luxury, renewal, rejuvenation, fitness, health and well-being—the ultimate definition of what a destination spa should be. I experienced a destination spa for the first time in in Florida back in 1988. That was a transformative, life enriching experience. While I have stayed at several other destination spas over the years, I had forgotten what it was like to be isolated from the raucous cacophony of so-called civilization, where external sounds tripped up my natural internal rhythms, throwing me off the path to a life in balance. Discord was not

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enjoyable, and coping had become an instinctive survival skill. While I love the experiences that other types of spas offer, nothing compares to a destination spa for balancing one’s sense of reality, getting back on track to being healthy and encouraging you to take some time for yourself while reigning in stress and realigning your perspective. My experience at Spa Eastman fulfilled all of these expectations. The commute from the Montreal Airport to Spa Eastman took about an hour and a half. The drive was relaxing, passing by beautiful landscapes and hilly terrain carved out by ancient glaciers. The first thing I noticed when I emerged from the car was the incredible calm and quiet. After checking in, I was met by marketing direccontinues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

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Just the experience of being surrounded by nature and pure mountain air was a religious experience.

tor Gabriela Rotariu Bergeron, who took me on a tour of the spa and escorted me to my room.

Vive la différence! Upon entering my accommodations, I immediately noticed the gorgeous view of Mount Royal (a popular hiking and skiing destination for locals and visitors), and also the lush forested landscaping that surrounded it. There are floor to ceiling French doors that open to a private patio, which allowed me to savor the experience of breathing in pure mountain air while being serenaded with the sweet songs of indigenous birds. The room had a king-sized bed with down covers, as well as a propane gas fireplace that would come in handy on a few chilly evenings. Guests at Spa Eastman are treated to a regular visit from a lovely lady who visits each room in the early evening to give visitors a hot water bottle, as well as a few skin or hair care items. I was already beginning to feel as if a weight had been lifted off of me. I was quickly realizing that Spa Eastman was, without a doubt, the most perfect setting for self-renewal. A true destination spa provides a totally different experience than a hotel or resort amenity spa. For one thing, it doesn’t have the accoutrements of so-called civilization for its guests. At Spa Eastman, there wasn’t any television or phone in the room, just a CD player with a clock. There was no need to even set the alarm clock or request a wake up call, as the natural surroundings are all one needs to awaken from a tranquil sleep. I also don’t have a laptop, and my cellphone didn’t operate in the Northlands, so I spent my evenings reading, reflecting and relaxing in preparation for the next day.

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Each morning at 6:30 a.m., I went downstairs to get a cup of freshly brewed organic coffee from a communal area, then ventured outside to take a contemplative walk and enjoy the fresh air, tranquility and songs of the serenading birds. This was a perfect time to reflect on all of my many blessings and be grateful. Just the experience of being surrounded by nature and pure mountain air was a religious experience; it definitely cleansed my mind, body and soul.

Real food leads to good health The Salle à Manger (dining room) is a beautiful dining area, complete with linen tablecloths, phenomenal tasting food that is also local, natural and organic, an impressive wine selection and attentive wait staff. Cuisine is artfully presented on every plate; diners definitely eat with their eyes first at the Salle à Manger. Dinner menus include a choice of appetizer, entrée and dessert; there is also a buffet area with several salads and two soup selections; tisanes and decaffeinated coffee (regular coffee is only served during breakfast) are also available in the buffet area. Dietary preferences are accommodated, and the daily menu options include vegan, raw, vegetarian and carnivore items. Carnivore options always include fish, meat or raw selections. On my first evening, I dined on a barbecued reindeer rack of ribs; the next night, duck confit. A healthier version of this typically fat-laden food was created using vegetable stock (versus the usual artery-clogging, fat-laden duck fat). On the third evening, I dined on a scrumptious saddle of venison. All entrées were served with plenty of delicious roasted vegetables and vegetable purées. continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

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Dubuc was driven to pursue a mission of health and wellness in her life. In turn, she inspired thousands over the years to also live this mission and immerse themselves in it.

All food is prepared from scratch; fresh herbs and vegetables from the spa’s garden are used in the cuisine at Spa Eastman when in season. Hearty breads, cheeses, honeys, jams, butter and more from local farmers were all featured. Delicious homemade yogurt is made daily. The Salle à Manger is communal, with tables for parties of various sizes. Guests are encouraged to sit at different tables at each meal service to get to know more guests. Sustenance and sustainability are central to the cuisine at Spa Eastman, and it lacks nothing in terms of quality, preparation or taste. All of the meal experiences were outstanding; the dinners were especially luxurious and impressive.

The visionary

Jocelyna Dubuc

For my first meal at the Salle à Manger, I dined with Jocelyna Dubuc, my host and the founder of Spa Eastman. We chatted about all things spa. Dubuc’s background includes a degree in teaching history and geography; she had a natural gift for teaching, and was always intuitively curious about other cultures. In the early 1970s, while personally experiencing the burden of some medical issues, Dubuc began independently studying alternative medicine and psychology, which eventually led her to travel to India to further pursue the study of Ayurveda, meditation and yoga. She remained in India for a few years before returning to Quebec. As a teacher, Dubuc wanted to share her newfound knowledge and experiences with others. She felt there was a need to adapt her Eastern knowledge and experiences to Western approaches in order to help others achieve a greater sense of health and well-being using natural processes; she personally experienced this during her time in India. Dubuc’s expanded base of knowledge pro-

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foundly impacted her life. She knew firsthand the benefits of movement and fitness through yoga, a healthier nutritional approach and meditation. When combined, the results of these practices were dramatic—and the critical component to achieving a life in balance. It was this passion for health and well-being that inspired her to create a space where she could lead and teach others who were also searching for something missing in their lives. She wanted to help them learn to be calm, and create a life that was balanced and naturally centered. Dubuc was driven to pursue a mission of health and wellness in her life. In turn, she inspired thousands over the years to also live this mission and immerse themselves in it. It was from this determination that Spa Eastman, Canada’s first-ever destination spa, was born. In addition to establishing this facility, she was also instrumental in establishing Canada’s first-ever health-centric vacation, a concept unlike any other at that point. In 1993, she was also instrumental in mobilizing the industry to form Canada’s pre-eminent spa association, Relais & Santé. The association would establish professional standards, provide educational platforms and cultivate an approach of professional development and outreach for its members and member spas. Dubuc is a highly revered, celebrated woman of vision. She has been distinguished throughout her career with numerous awards and accolades recognizing her contributions to education, business, Canadian tourism, sustainability and development, as well as general business and the spa industry.

Rest prepares the body for another day After a delicious dinner and spirited discussion with Jocelyna Dubuc, I head back to my room, exhausted but also exhilarated, and prepare for my first night in nature’s solitude. In my spacious room in an extremely comfortable bed, the only sound I could hear was my own breathing, with a steady and relaxed rhythmic pattern. That was the only sound I heard that evening, and it lulled me into a deep, sound sleep, something I hadn’t experienced in quite some time.

Reclaiming myself On the second day, after I awakened early and enjoyed a delicious and wholesome breakfast, I took advantage of the Kneipp Cold Water Cure. Years ago, I had read about the Austrian continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

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spa of the month|spa eastman

Chef de Blois regularly conducts courses on the topic of healthy cuisine and works closely with the spa’s naturopath.

priest, naturopath and visionary Father Sebastian Kneipp and his Kneipp-Kurs, which were based on the Five Pillars: water, plants, exercise, nutrition and balance. Key aspects to this approach were the extremes of thermography, cold and hot, to revitalize the circulatory system. A major aspect of the Kneipp-Kur utilized these extremes. Spa Eastman is the first North American spa I’ve ever visited that actually had a Kneipp Water Cure of absolutely frigid cold water (56° F). The Kneipp-Kur experience is self-guided, with instructions as to the sequence in both French and English. One area was for the legs and feet; another for the arms and hands. The area for the legs and feet required that I exaggerate a slow walking movement, bringing each leg up, bent as high as possible before placing it back into the frigid water, which was less than two and a half feet deep. It was important that the movements not be rushed, in order to maximize the effectiveness of the Cure. The temperature of the water was jarring, and I felt it every time I removed one leg and placed the other into the water. I felt like a flamingo slowly walking through the water. Once the sequence was over and I exited the circuit, I could feel tiny, needle-like movements on my feet, calves, knee and part of the thigh area. I have never before experienced that level of stimulation in those areas. The circuit for the hands and forearm required that I immerse just my forearm, wrist and hand in frigid water while approximating at least 30 seconds and alternating each one for at least 10 repetitions. Again, the tiny needle-like stimulus on these body parts was remarkable. After initially completing both circuits I was very cold, but my body quickly adapted to the warmer ex-

ternal temperature; my skin was noticeably more pink from increased circulation. I thoroughly enjoyed this self-guided therapy and found it very beneficial. I had thought my circulation in these extremities was fine, but thanks to this treatment I realized how sluggish they were, and that they needed to be kick-started again!

The joys of reflexology Between my self-guided activities and several off-site pursuits, I had just enough time to squeeze in one more service, and I opted for the Foot Reflexology. Anne-Marie, the therapist who worked on me, did not disappoint me at all. Even though I spoke no French and AnneMarie spoke very little English, the language of spa through the highly skilled hands of the therapist was more than sufficient to render this treatment exceptional.

Seeing is believing One afternoon, I attended one of the many workshops regularly offered to guests. The Healthy Eating and Cooking Workshop, conducted by Chef Richard de Blois, featured the topic “Green Smoothies Culinary Workshop.” This session turned out to be much more than a demonstration on how to make nutritious smoothies and beverages at home. It was also a primer on the necessity of incorporating healthy foods into a nutritious and healthy lifestyle. Chef de Blois regularly conducts courses on the topic of healthy cuisine and works closely with the spa’s naturopath. Guests can schedule a one-on-one session with Chef de Blois to have their nutritional needs assessed and receive guidance on maximizing their nutritional food intake for a healthier lifestyle. A specific program is usually designed for them, which includes meeting with a naturopath and kinesiologist. After the class, I had an opportunity to sit down with Chef de Blois to chat about his philosophy and background. He stressed the importance of living a green life and eating natural and organic foods. He also explained how allowing the natural flavors of food to enhance taste make it easier to limit the use of fats in food preparation.

The difference Guests have a variety of options to choose from, all of which emphasize health and well-being. These include consultations with qualified practitioners of nutrition, naturopathy, fitness, kinesiolcontinues Page 18 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

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life with underpinnings of health and well-being; it’s a definite win-win. Spa Eastman also offers unique programs geared toward individuals recovering from cancer; they have partnered with the Medisys Health Group and developed a special Executive Retreat Program, which identifies health-risk factors and their causes while developing strategic programs to address those causes. Spa Eastman is situated on 326 acres of pristine forested land, rivers and streams. The “village” includes the main building (the spa complex) and seven additional pavilions; within these buildings are some 46 luxurious rooms (most with fireplaces and a magnificent view of the majestic Mont Orford). There is also the Barn Studio, where many fitness classes are held each day. Additionally, guests have outdoor access to a pool, whirlpool, pond, hammock stations, treatment areas, fire pits and more than nine miles of trails for walking, hiking and skiing.

Beyond the spa Guests have access to an outdoor pool, whirlpool, pond, hammock stations, treatment areas, fire pits and more than nine miles of trails for walking, hiking and skiing.

ogy, osteopathic medicine, yoga and life coaching. There are also specific health packages that focus on health cures, such as the raw food cure, grape cure, detox and personalized cure (naturopathy). Other package options offered include fitness, anti-aging, anti-cellulite and detox. They can be customized for any duration of stay, or for specific fitness and health themes. Throughout the day, a variety of fitness classes are offered, including three daily fitness walks, water aerobics, cardio kickboxing, yoga, Pilates and Chi-Kung Qi Gong, in addition to several daily health and lifestyle workshops. Therapeutic spa treatments include numerous massage modalities, reflexology, hydrotherapy, salt exfoliation, mud and body wraps; there is also a salon that does esthetics-related treatments, such as facial therapies and nail, hair and makeup services. In addition to the gym and fitness studio, there are several pools (indoor and outdoor), a whirlpool, sauna, hammam (steam), cold plunge and Kneipp station. All of these features promote circulatory health by proven methods of alternating heat with cold. Lastly, businesses regularly hold their conference and meeting functions at Spa Eastman, and integrate the meeting experience into the spa experience; when these elements are combined in a conducive environment such as this spa, it benefits the attendees immensely, and revitalizes their approach to their work and

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I spent one afternoon with Danie Béliveau, the media relations director of Eastern Townships. As we drove through the area, I was struck by the beautiful landscape, which was formed by glaciers. We made a stop at the Abbey of SaintBenoît-Du-Luc, where we took a brief, self-guided tour of the exquisite church and also stopped in the Store, which is run by the Abbey’s Benedictine Monks. The Store is known throughout town for its artisan-crafted cheeses, jams, ciders and sauces. From there we headed to Savonnerie des Diligences, an artisan-crafted soap-making business. I enjoyed watching the soap being made, and was fascinated with the entire process. Savonnerie des Diligences was established when co-owner Marie-Eve Lejour experienced health-related concerns and recognized the need to produce a pure, toxin-free product. Mme. Lejour’s husband, a chef, applies his culinary skills to devise the recipe formulations following the guidance of an aromatherapist.

The journey’s end On the final day of my stay, I was driven to downtown Montreal to experience Spa Eastman’s Montreal location in the heart of the vibrant City Center area. Since 1996, this location has been addressing the health and well-being needs of urbanites who may not have the time to spend at the other location. This boutique day spa continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

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has many of the same offerings of the Quebec location. Overall, the selection is exceptionally comprehensive, and exceeds the standard fare so many urban day spas tend to offer. I indulged in a session of Thai Massage therapy, performed by Kingkéo Savejvong, a certified massage therapist of some 20 years. The treatment incorporated various modalities, such as deep tissue, reflexology and traditional Thai. The massage was very invigorating and restorative, and created an exceptional end to an incredibly nurturing and life enriching destination spa experience. After the treatment, I rested

to decompress, reclaim themselves and the person they really are, the one who somehow slipped away and got lost in the stresses of dayto-day living. Guests come here to experience the joy of self-discovery through community and self-reflection, leaving restored and whole, with a renewed purpose and a recommitment to their own health and wellness. The urban spa location offers many of these aspects as well. My journey was an investment in myself that was well worth taking. Life is short—living it fully and with a healthy purpose is something that matters beyond measure. n

comfortably in an overstuffed lounge chair overlooking a beautiful vista of trees and an urban landscape. A visible atmosphere of hustle and bustle was apparent outside, but inside was a world of remarkable calm and peace.

Merci beaucoup to Jocelyna Dubuc, Danie Béliveau, Marouan Belfakir, Marie José Pinsonnault and Annemarie Heidbuchel.

Perspective During my visit, I was privileged to meet some incredible women who have created their own alternative ways of achieving a healthier lifestyle through well-being, nature and purity. Their individual journeys to achieve this mission led them to establish businesses that made a difference in the lives of others. Spa Eastman is a destination spa where everything is about the spa; that includes healthy, natural, local and organic cuisine, behavior and health lectures, fitness classes and treatment therapies. It is a place where a person goes to seek refuge from the regular chaos of their lives Page 22 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Terry Herman is a recognized expert in the spa industry. As a writer and blogger, she covers business, management, operations, customer care, treatments and trends. Herman is also a management consultant and motivational speaker. She serves as group manager for The Spa Buzz LinkedIn group, and is a member of the EXPERIENCE | PREMCHIT Journeys in Retreat to Wellness advisory board. Herman can be reached via e-mail at terry_h60559@yahoo.com. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

photos courtesy of Spa Eastman

Guests come here to experience the joy of selfdiscovery through community and self-reflection, leaving restored and whole, with a renewed purpose and a recommitment to their own health and wellness.

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PACKED WITH EXCITEMENT! THOUSANDS OF LEADING SKIN care, spa and wellness professionals came together at the Long Beach Convention Center on September 9th and 10th for the 2012 International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach, CA. Attendance for the consistently popular trade show was even 20 percent higher than last year! The International Congress of Es­ thetics and Spa constantly strives to create a dynamic congress to serve professionals from all sectors of the spa industry. These efforts are reflected in the diverse lineup of cutting-edge, interactive programs addressing a broad range of topics and emerging trends. The latest Long Beach International Congress of Esthetics and Spa featured numerous additions and updates.

A Natural Difference booth

General Session crowd

Le Mieux booth

An expansion of the long-running In-Depth Makeup Seminar was well received by attendees. The new format included three different speakers rather than one, each presenting a unique fulllength demonstration. All three classes were packed Monday afternoon with professionals eager to master the most cutting-edge techniques from leading makeup artists. The new Business Education and Networking Program was hosted in the Spa Buzz Lounge on both days of the conference. On Sunday, day spa owners and managers listened to industry experts speak on topics customized especially for them. On Monday, these speakers led presentations targeted to directors and managers for hotel and resort spas,

Enspri booth

view of crowd

Circadia booth

Page 24 • www.LNEONLINE.com

discussing issues specific to their businesses. The Spa Buzz also held a round table discussion each day, providing guests with an opportunity to network and learn from other professionals following similar career paths. Many attendees found the new Medical Spa Business Seminar particularly insightful, as it contained valuable business related information relevant to the growing medical sector of the spa industry. With such an outstanding attendance of top quality professionals, vendors had a great experience as well, in terms of both networking and direct sales. “The Long Beach show was incredible, I had a great time networking with other professionals in the industry,” declared Tina Zillmann of Advanced Rejuvenating

crowd watching demonstration

HydroPeptide booth

The Spa Buzz Lounge

Lucrece Physicians’ Aesthetic Research booth

Osmosis booth

Control Corrective booth

NuFace booth

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

FOLLOW THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA ON: TM

Concepts. “It was great to see the growth in our industry, with so many of our accounts succeeding beyond expectations.” “We met many skin care professionals that share the beliefs that are the cornerstones of our company, including continuing education, improving lives and a high standard for values and ethics,” said Stephanie Nervegna, trade show and event manager for PCA SKIN. “We couldn’t have asked for a better experience.” “This is the one show that I will not miss,” said Diane Buccola, owner of Spa­ BizBoard. “The classes and speakers are great, and most important to me, it is a trade show strictly for professionals, so you won’t find multi-level-marketing companies there.”

Crowded aisle

TIZO booth

crowded aisle

“It was a great show, very well done as always,” said Attila Koronczay, general manager of Éminence Organic Skin Care. “We have been coming to Long Beach for years and we’re always happy with the event. Amazing attendance this year.” “We’ve been loyal to the Long Beach show for quite a few years now,” said Francois Requier of Silhouet-Tone. “As always, there was great interest from the visitors. We enjoyed the show a lot—The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is a great organization with great people!” Thank you to all who took part in this exciting event. We look forward to seeing you next year! n Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines cosponsor four

Wellness and Organic Pavilion

attendees

Szép Élet booth

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

BY AMANDA CLINTON WINTER International Congress of Esthetics and Spa educational conferences/trade shows annually in Miami Beach, FL, Dallas, TX, Long Beach, CA and Philadelphia, PA. Dates for 2013 conferences: Miami Beach, FL, April 7-8; Dallas, TX, May 5-6; Long Beach, CA, September 2930; Philadelphia, PA, October 27-28.

Amanda Clinton Winter is the assistant editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Email her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

Nina Curtis

view of crowd

Pino booth

Skin Fitness booth

PCA Skin booth

Physiodermie booth

Éminence booth, show sponsor

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 25

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skin

TCA peels in the winter

by James Fulton, M.D., Ph.D.

PEELS ARE IDEAL DURING THE cooler months of the year, given the fact that the heat and humidity of the summer months make the skin more susceptible to irritation and itchiness. People tend to get more sun during the summer season, either because of increased time spent outdoors on vacations or at the beach. When you throw in the effect of the rigors skin undergoes

due to peels, odds are that the combination will overwhelm the skin. Also, everyone wants to look their best for the holiday season, so why not give your skin a boost when temperatures dip with a trichloroacetic acid peel (TCA peel)? The following are some of the best practices clients can use to prepare their skin for a TCA peel, and how you can execute one that provides your client with optimal results:

30%). Contrariwise, if the client feels a lot of burning and develops an intense erythema or blanching, the operator might choose a light TCA solution (10-15%). Usually, the operator applies several coats of TCA until mild white blanching develops. Complete the peel by applying a retinoid solution, which should be left on until bedtime. In two or three days, the peeling will begin around the mouth,

Precondition your client’s skin with a retinoid cream or lotion for at least one month before the peel.

before

Precondition your client’s skin with a retinoid cream or lotion for at least one month before the peel. The preconditioning reduces the barrier of the stratum corneum, increases the epidermis and dermis’ metabolism, and evens out the pigment. Since the skin is already dividing rapidly, the healing after the TCA peel is more rapid. Make sure the client plans to avoid the sun, as the new skin could become blotchy after the combination of a peel and sun exposure.

and then progress across the face like a wave. The client must be advised to keep the skin moist with an ointment, and not to pick off the scale. The new skin will become evident in one week. The peel can be repeated every two to three months… *Caution: If the client has frequent herpes outbreaks around the mouth, they should take an antiviral medication for five days after the peel. The technician should not peel close to the lips. n

photos courtesy of James Fulton, M.D., Ph.D.

The TCA peel procedure

after

On the day of the peel, pre-condition the skin with several coats of the modified Jessner Peel (salicyclic, lactic and citric acids). This strips off any dead skin cells, and gives the operator an idea of how the rest of the peel performs. For example, if the client feels no itch and only has slight erythema, the operator could use a stronger TCA solution (20-

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

James E. Fulton, M.D., Ph.D., is the medical director for Vivant Pharma­ ceuticals, LLC. His other accomplish­ ments include the development of the patented Benzoyl Peroxide gel deliv­ ery system and the co-development of RetinA®. Dr. Fulton was the first to use and patent vitamin A propionate in skin care products. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 27

MANY LISTS OF SEVENS SEEM TO BE popping up everywhere lately. One such list that skin care product companies are using in their sales pitches is the “seven signs of aging.” Each list is different, but product lines usually claim to address these signs of aging; some of them claim to address all seven in one product. The goal here is to simplify the list into something that we as estheticians can use in our understanding of the skin, and in developing treatment plans for our clients with aging skin. In this list, the signs are separated into two sections: the signs of normal aging, and the abnormal signs for natural aging.

Normal signs of aging These are changes that nobody can escape. Yes, the amounts do vary, based on environmental and genetic factors, but everyone’s skin shows the following signs of aging to some degree.

1.

SIGNS OF AGING BY JANET MCCORMICK

Thinning of the dermal layer. The skin thins with age due to a reduction of the dermal layer and loss of subcutaneous fat. Fine lines are the very first sign of aging, and the diminishment of the dermal matrix. They are usually not noticeable in our youth, and then one day we look into the mirror and there they are! We suddenly realize we look like our mother did when we were kids. Usually, they first show up around the eyes. Then they become deeper and turn into actual wrinkles (rhytids), the most dreaded sign of skin aging, and gradually become apparent in other areas of the face. While wrinkles are forming, marionette lines develop; these are the “folds” that extend down from the corners of our mouth. Alas, what could once be described as “laugh lines” are now furrows, which later become even deeper furrows. With the loss of the dermal matrix and subcutaneous fat, the skin becomes less plump, more fragile and susceptible to damage (cuts, tears and bruises). Heavy pressure and movement of the surface may even cause it to tear. Another progressive example of the loss of dermal matrix and plumpness is the neck bands that may emerge with age, as the neck loses

Page 28 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

skin

the protective dermal layer and subcutaneous fat, eliminating the “cushion” barrier between the skin and the platysma muscle that extends over the neck from the upper chest, collarbone and jaw to control facial expressions. Then, as aging causes the platysma to pull forward and down, its vertical strips in the neck become more apparent. The extent of their protrusion is usually hereditary. The loss of dermal thickness is not the only reason that wrinkling develops. Dehydration of the epidermal layer and, in some areas, reduction of muscle mass are additional causes for the wrinkling of aging skin.

2.

Sagging of the skin is due in part to the changes in the connective tissue that gives skin its elasticity. The connective tissue in the dermis loses its tautness and recovery response to movement, and combined with the loss of muscle tone, the skin can develop a sagging, flabby or droopy appearance. The jowls may begin to sag, and the skin on the neck can become a “double chin.” Another area of sagging due to a loss of dermal matrix and muscle tone is the skin below the eyes.

3.

Dryness/dehydration. The sebaceous glands produce less oil (sebum) as we age. When we are young, our healthy skin is radiant and fresh looking because of its natural moisture content. Then aging begins. Women gradually produce less and less oil, especially following menopause, resulting in the skin’s

reduced ability to retain moisture. Older skin has a compromised dry and dehydrated appearance. Dehydration is thought to be caused by the loss of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) as we age, such as hyaluronic acid in the dermal layer of the skin. GAGs are basically water-holding sugars, whose key role is to hold moisture in the skin. The amount of hyaluronic acid and other GAGs in the dermis can start to diminish when we reach our 40s. This progressive loss, along with a compromised epidermis, is the most likely cause of dehydration.

4.

Color changes. Skin color is a composite of red, blue, yellow and brown, the result of red oxygenated hemoglobin, yellow carotenoids, flavins and the brown melanin pigment of our skin. With age, the resulting balance of the colors changes. A slight sallowness, the more yellow undertone, is the result of a decrease in brown melanin pigment, along with a decline in red and blue colored capillaries. The breakdown of the dermal layer and the slowdown in the cellular cycle, combined with a less-than-efficient desquamation process, results in a duller complexion for aging skin. All of this is more apparent in lighter complexions, but it can be seen in everyone. Smokers’ skin is even more dull and sallow. As we age, hormonal shifts and the uneven deposit of melanin can also cause the skin to lose the even, luminescent appearance it possessed during our 20s. In many, the skin can have a mottled appearance.

THE AMOUNT OF HYALURONIC ACID AND OTHER GAGS IN THE DERMIS CAN START TO DIMINISH WHEN WE REACH OUR 40S. THIS PROGRESSIVE LOSS, ALONG WITH A COMPROMISED EPIDERMIS, IS MOST LIKELY THE CAUSE OF DEHYDRATION.

5.

Vascular changes. With aging, the vascular system in the dermis is reduced, and supplies a lower amount of nutrients and oxygenated blood to the skin. This may contribute to the thinning of the dermis. Also, aging results in thinner, more easily damaged vascular walls. This allows easier bruising, something estheticians must consider when treating older clients. The amount of easy bruising (senile purpura) can also be influenced by illness, medications, sun damage or genetics. continues

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 29

skin|seven signs of aging

IT IS SAID THAT EXPOSURE TO UVA OR UVB RAYS FROM SUNLIGHT ACCOUNTS FOR 90 PERCENT OF PREMATURE AGING SYMPTOMS.

1.

Many physicians believe that photoaging is the root cause of skin aging. Sunlight has a profound effect on the skin, causing premature aging, cancer and a multitude of other negative consequences for the skin. It is said that exposure to UVA or UVB rays from sunlight accounts for 90 percent of premature aging symptoms.

2. 6.

Greater visibility of the pores. Sun damage is one cause of pores’ larger appearance. Sun damage and aging cause the natural desquamation of skin to slow, and the cells are more likely to collect around individual hair follicle openings (pores). While microscopic, the rim of cells exaggerates the appearance of the pore’s diameter.

7.

Slower healing. As skin ages, it heals more slowly due to the prolonged replacement rate of collagen, elastin and the epidermal cells. Older patients reportedly take twice as long to re-epithelialize after dermabrasion/resurfacing procedures than younger patients. This must be taken into consideration when developing treatment plans that include a response by the dermal matrix and enhancement of cell turnover in the epidermis. To achieve the maximum benefit of the treatment, the esthetician must allow a longer time between treatments for the skin to achieve maximum dermal reorganization, a healing response that results from the treatment.

Abnormal changes in aging skin The signs of aging listed below could be termed “pathological aging,” because they are exaggerated aging caused by certain environmental conditions.

Skin lesions. Lesions often occur on aging skin, and estheticians must know how to recognize them. Some are benign, while others are progressive and very serious. Cancer is the most dangerous type of lesion, and the esthetician must be familiar with the symptoms. Learn about the various types of cancer and the A, B, C and Ds of melanoma. Then, when a suspicious lesion is apparent, refer the client for an evaluation—without frightening her or making a diagnosis. With aging, the number and functionality of the Langerhans cells of the epidermis are reduced, which creates a lowered immune response for the skin. This results in decreased immunity, and is said to potentially account for the reduced ability of the skin to reject disorders, and the higher incidence of premalignant and malignant lesions in aging skin.

3.

Hyperpigmentation. Darkened spots on the surface of the skin are the result of an increase in the number, size and color of pigmented spots on the face. The root cause is usually sun damage via overexposure. Estheticians need to educate their younger clients to take prevention measures, and to perform lightening treatments on the areas of their clients’ skin that is already damaged.

4.

Vascular system damage. With aging, the walls of blood vessels weaken and become more susceptible to damage. Bruises develop more often, and broken blood vessels and capillaries may cause red areas or lines on the face known as telangectasia. These fine lines are red, purple or blue in color, and have the appearance of spider legs. They are usually clustered in one place, and appear on the cheek area. continues

Page 30 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

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skin|seven signs of aging

AGING SKIN IS ALSO MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO DEVELOPING ALLERGIES, SO ESTHETICIANS NEED TO CHECK THE CLIENT’S HEALTH INTAKE SHEET FOR A PROCLIVITY TO ALLERGIES.

tosterone. An exaggerated response to exfoliation treatments can be a side effect of hormonal problems. An esthetician must know if the client is in this phase of her life in order to be able to adjust treatment plans to fit her needs.

7.

5.

Facial hair growth. Aging can cause excessive hair growth on a woman’s face, and the texture varies from subtle “peach fuzz” to dark, whisker-like hair. It also varies in terms of amount, and can be a very annoying issue for women. The cause is usually attributed to the changed levels of hormones in the body. When developing treatment plans for clients with unusual hair growth, estheticians should always consider the possibility that these individuals may have hormonal problems.

6.

Skin problems based on hormonal deficiency or fluctuation. Menopause can cause many skin problems. The absence of estrogen causes a loss of elasticity and color in the skin, and contributes to sagging and dryness. Additional changes may be the overproduction of oil, enlarged pores and facial hair growth due to the presence of tes-

Janet McCormick is a CIDESCO Diplomat, certified medical nail technician, trainer and a former spa director and salon owner. She has written more than 400 articles for beauty industry magazines and books. McCormick is the co-owner of Medinail Learning Center, a provider of modular on­ line and school courses about safe techniques for nail technicians. She can be reached at janetgmccormick@aol.com or 863.273.9134.

Page 32 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

photos: Stefano Lunardi/Shutterstock.com

Cherry angiomas are small, raised, bright red bumps caused by dilated blood vessels, usually found on the trunk of the body. However, they also frequently occur around the periphery of the face near the hairline.

Skin diseases and disorders. Aging skin is more susceptible to diseases and disorders than younger, more viable skin. More than 90 percent of older adults have some type of skin disorder. The plethora of dermatologic conditions that exist makes it challenging for even physicians to make a correct diagnosis, so estheticians certainly should not attempt to diagnose them. Some of the common disorders estheticians see on aging skin is acne vulgaris, acne rosacea, actinic keratoses, chloasma, dermatitis, dry skin, pseudofolliculitis barbae, psoriasis, seborrhea, sensitive skin and vitiligo. Aging skin is also more susceptible to developing allergies, so estheticians need to check the client’s health intake sheet for a proclivity to allergies. As skin ages, new allergies to ingredients in skin care products and treatments may manifest. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, the extent of skin aging is largely dependent on the amount of unprotected sun exposure we have experienced in our outdoor work or play. Other factors that influence the amount of abnormal aging are poor nutrition and hydration, medications, illness and exposure to wind and cold. And let’s not forget our genetics. The condition of our mother or grandmother’s skin influences our own skin’s reaction to the factors of aging, whether normal or abnormal. n

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The greatest esthetician you’ve never heard of!

Emily Lloyd

By Eli Jones

IN THE NOVEMBER 2010 ISSUE OF LNE & Spa, an article I wrote entitled “The Evolution of Esthetics: A 100-Year Rewind” was published. The information in that article was largely based on one of the first pieces of literature I had happened upon about professional skin care—a textbook from 1910 entitled The Skin: Its Care and Treatment. While the roots of today’s beauty industry were somewhat clarified for me after I read this remarkable work, it dawned on me that the author of the text, one Ms. Emily Lloyd, was something of an enigma herself. I started to develop my own curiosity about her. Who was she? Where did she come from? How did she acquire such an extensive knowledge of skin care before the American industry had come into its own? I had been trying for a long time to determine the exact point where modern esthetics began, and it seemed that learning more about the author of The Skin: Its Care and Treatment would bring me one step closer to that goal. So I made it a primary objective in 2011 to speak to as many industry authorities as possible about Ms. Lloyd—authors, educators, product developers, convention coordinators and professionals who have been in the industry for numerous years. I left no informational stone unturned. I asked many people if they knew anything about the mysterious textbook author, and for more than a year, nobody was able to give me a solid answer.

Well, it was New Year’s weekend and I had come to the conclusion that finding an answer was just not in the cards. So I decided to do my usual online search for old skin care stuff when, much to my surprise, I found more of Lloyd’s books. As it turns out, the 1910 textbook referred to in the previously mentioned article was actually the fourth edition, which was published near the end of the title’s run. The initial printing took place in 1903, with the fifth and final version being released in 1914. Beyond this date, Lloyd was mostly credited with writing textbooks for the Marinello School. This did not seem entirely unusual, being as the ads for the Marinello product line—and eventually the school, appeared on the final pages of every copy of The Skin. What did seem odd was that the book, published by the McIntosh Battery & Optical Company (a manufacturer of batteries and microscopes), ceased production of the textbook only a year before the Marinello Company started publishing their book, with Lloyd as the author. After a little more research, the answer to the question I had been asking finally presented itself: Emily Lloyd was a pseudonym; the author’s actual name was none other than Mrs. Ruth D. Johnson Maurer, the founder of the Marinello System, product line and school of beauty. For those who are less familiar with Mrs. Maurer, let me first say that she is perhaps the most important beauty industry icon you have never heard of. Upon digging deeper, more and

Page 34 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

images: Shutterstock.com

treatment photo from The Skin: Its Care and Treatment, published in 1914

skin more fascinating information about Maurer and the origins of the beauty industry kept manifesting. Not only did she create one of the first commercially recognized skin care schools in the U.S., but the quality standard of the information contained in her textbooks—written at a time before state board exams and international certification existed—continues to exceed the general education requirements for many modern estheticians. Simply put, Ruth Maurer was an industry authority whose knowledge of beauty-oriented skin care rivaled even European standards of the time. With that said, I have put together a timeline of important dates in Maurer’s life that will not only provide a better insight into who she was, but also one more clue as to where our profession originated from. *Disclaimer: A great deal of research and fact-checking took place for the writing of this article, and it is the goal of the author to present the facts of all entities mentioned herein accurately. The information contained within this timeline is based on various historical entries including textbook, newspaper, magazine, copyright and patent information. Where specific dates could not be obtained, an approximation is provided and shown as either having taken place between certain years or as “circa” if an event is believed to have occurred at an approximate time, close to a specific year. This timeline-like narrative consists of a history of institutions, inventions and industry innovations with a personal touch. 1871: Ruth D. Johnson is born in Iowa. 1886: Ruth Johnson moves to La Crosse, WI, where she marries Albert A. Maurer. Circa 1887: Albert and Ruth’s first son, Claude W. Maurer is born. 1891: Albert and Ruth’s second son, Albert Maurer Jr. is born. 1901: Ruth Maurer’s patent for an improved skin depurator is issued on August 20, and noted in Volume 37 of The Journal of the Ameri­ can Medical Association. A device no longer used by estheticians, the depurator was an apparatus that used air pressure to topically apply medication to lesions and expel any dead or secondary matter via the skin’s excretory ducts. Mrs. Maurer made modifications to it so that a patient’s skin would not be painfully drawn into the device during the instrument’s vacuum operation, which was a common problem with earlier models. November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

1903: The first edition of The Skin: Its Care

and Treatment is published by the McIntosh Battery & Optical Company of Chicago, IL, authored by an uncredited Ruth Maurer. The front inside page indicates that the information and techniques covered in the book are written according to a currently unknown standard referred to as the Michaud System. This standard was presumably developed by Maurer’s predecessor, or prototype, and was what would eventually become known as the Marinello System, which was established in 1904, according to the National Hairdressers’ and Cosmetologists Association’s autobiography, NHCA’s Golden Years. It should also be noted that Maurer’s electrotherapy-oriented textbook material allowed the McIntosh Company to use catalogue stock photos of galvanic and faradic batteries as a means of displaying their brand while exemplifying the author’s machine references. It is

Not only did she create one of the first commercially recognized skin care schools in the U.S., but the quality standard of the information contained in her textbooks continues to exceed the general education requirements for many modern estheticians.

possible that an agreement between Maurer and the McIntosh Company had been reached, which granted the publisher the right to advertise equipment to up-and-coming operators as a means of having the textbook published on a national scale. The Marinello product line is officially launched. An original advertisement for professional implements such as comedone extractors, mallets, automatic massagers, water massagers and several skin care products can be found toward the end of the first edition of The Skin. Circa 1904: The second edition of The Skin is published and authored under the pseudonym of Emily Lloyd, a name that Maurer would adopt for the majority of her written works. The front inside page no longer mentions the Michaud System, instead noting that “every detail of this important work [is taught] in a simple, concise and practical manner.” As information continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 35

Lloyd’s numerous inventions and improvements in the use of electrical apparatuses, her ideas in furnishings, and her experience in business management are all available for Marinello students.

The rigid policy adhered to by the Marinello Company serves as protection to both operators and patients. This has been accomplished to the extent that the saying, “Marinello means Merit” became accepted. Lectures by Emily Lloyd are especially of value because of her worldwide reputation as the acknowledged authority on skin. Her numerous inventions and improvements in the use of electrical apparatuses, her ideas in furnishings, and her experience in business management are all available for Marinello students. An important fact to know is that the beauty profession is one of the few fields open to women that is not overcrowded. Opportunities for making money are consequently much greater than those in other vocations. A book titled The Prismatic Ray in the Treat­ ment of Face and Scalp is published by the New Medicine Publishing Company of Chicago, IL and credited to Emily Lloyd.

A periodical titled Marinello Messenger begins publishing around this time. The magazine provides information on cosmetics, business practices and general beauty culture in the United States. Mainstream ads for Marinello products are regularly featured in prominent magazines such as Cosmopolitan, Harper’s Bazaar and Ladies Home Journal for a few decades (from approximately 1910-1930). The name brand would go on to achieve both national and international popularity as a successful professional and retail cosmetics line. 1912: Ruth Maurer coins the term “cosmetician” to describe hairdressers that place a particular emphasis on the scientific treatment of skin. Early beauticians were also referred to as operators, a label commonly used by Maurer in her textbooks. The term “operator” likely developed from the electrotherapy-intensive treatments that beauticians performed, which required a thorough knowledge of the operation of various machines. It is possible that the title may have also served as a descriptive term for anyone who participated in the general operation of a beauty business. Circa 1912: An early meeting of what would become the American Cosmeticians Association takes place, as noted in the NHCA’s Golden Years. The book states: “In 1912, we find that an item appeared in the Chicago daily press on the convening of a group of hairdressers, through the untiring energy of a woman by the name of R.J. Maurer (Emily Lloyd). This was the forerunner of the American Cosmetician’s Society, initially an alumnae group of the Marinello Schools, then owned by Mrs. Maurer, which later formed the nucleus of the American Cosmeticians Association. These practitioners of the Marinello system, as it was then constituted, specialized in the care of the skin and the cosmetics to be used in their treatments.” 1914: The fifth and final edition of The Skin is published, thus marking the end of Maurer’s work with the McIntosh Battery & Optical Company. 1915: The first edition of The Marinello Text Book: Teaching the Care of the Face, Scalp, Hair and Hands is self-published by the Marinello Company of Chicago, IL and credited to Emily Lloyd. Circa 1916-1919: The second edition of The Marinello Text Book is published.

Page 36 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

images: Shutterstock.com

progressively expands, credits in the next three editions follow suit. The Marinello School is officially launched. Being at the forefront of the suffragist movement, the school serves as a non-segregated facility where women of all ethnicities can come to learn about the trade behind beauty culture. 1907: The 3rd edition of The Skin is published. 1910: The 4th edition of The Skin is published, containing an original advertisement for the Marinello School’s Chicago, IL location. The ad states: “A course in the Marinello School gives a training in Beauty Culture so far in advance of all others, that its value is beyond comparison.” The very highest standards are maintained in the work (the sanitation, sterilization methods and quality of the treatments provided). The Marinello standard gains recognition the world over.

skin

1920: The third edition of The Marinello Text

Book is published. A book titled Special Lessons Compiled by Emily Lloyd for the National School of Cosmeticians is published by the Marinello Company. This text is largely hair-oriented, but does contain a great deal of information on the use of various skin care products and massage techniques. 1921: Two of Maurer’s patents—a stylized bottle and an ornate jar design—are issued on April 26. Additional bottling and packaging patents likely existed before and after this point, as the Marinello product line was quite extensive. 1922: The fourth edition of The Marinello Text Book is published. Circa 1923: The fifth edition of The Mari­ nello Text Book is published, with a section about electricity and its use in cosmetic work. 1924: A book titled Use of Electricity on the Face and Scalp is published by the Marinello Company and credited to Emily Lloyd. 1925: The Marinello Company’s base of operations is relocated to New York due to investment opportunities. It is believed that Maurer sold the school during this period. Ruth Maurer’s patent for a mahjong tray, an accessory that holds game tiles upright, is issued on March 17. Much like Scrabble, a game not conceptualized until 1938, the accessory faces the player and makes selecting pieces easier. Circa 1926: The ACA’s growth continues at a presumably similar rate to the NHA’s. As a result, industry professionals it difficult to discern between the two groups. The NHCA’s Golden Years states: “Confusion between the two hairdressing associations claiming to be national in scope was becoming more and more pronounced and many hairdressers who thought they were joining the [NHA] found they were members of the Cosmeticians, who were beginning to refer to their organization as ‘national.’ The use of the word ‘national’ as indicating the National Hairdressers Association had become common usage in all branches of the industry almost from the inception of the organization. Therefore, in 1926 a resolution was passed calling for recognition of ‘national’ as referring specifically to the National Hairdressers Association, Inc.” A number of national affiliates had incorporated the word “cosmetician” into their association names, not being aware that it was a November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

It is believed that the Ruth Maurer New York/Rudemar skin care line began at some point during the early to mid 1930s.

designation coined by Mrs. Ruth Maurer, which President C.W. Godefroy discovered after his perusal of the dictionary when he found the word “cosmetology.” He recommended the use of the word “cosmetologist” for the practitioner and “cosmetology” to designate the craft … It was suggested that the term “cosmetologists” be included in the name of the NHA, but its official adoption did not take place until the Cleveland Convention of 1927. It would seem that Maurer’s use of the word “cosmetician” caused the NHA, as it was then known, to find and incorporate a similar term as a means of differentiating its members from the ACAs. It is possible that this modification brought about our modern use of the word cosmetologist, which describes a professional who provides services for the hair, skin and nails. Consequently, the NHCA would go on to drop the “Hairdressers” from its title, simply referring to itself as what we know it as today—the NCA. 1927: Ruth J. Maurer is mentioned in the second May issue of TIME Magazine in an article titled “Dime a Face.” She is quoted as saying, “Every woman could be beautiful on 10 cents a day,” while explaining to a group of professionals at the Beauty Trades Show in Chicago that women in the U.S. spend too much on daily cosmetics and treatments. 1929: Between 1923 and 1929, eight editions of The Marinello Text Book are released, and the 13th edition is published during this year. Though the Marinello School was sold during the mid 1920s, Maurer continues to author the school’s textbook. 1930: It is believed that the Ruth Maurer New York/Rudemar skin care line was launched at some point in the early to mid 1930s. This new line may have been the result of a few scenarios: investors purchasing both the Marinello School and products, but allowing the line to phase out after some years; investors omitting the product line in the purchase of the Marinello School; or continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 37

skin|the skin greatest esthetician you’ve never heard of!

1936: The sixth edition of The Ruth D. Mau­

rer Handbook of Beauty Culture is revised in September. 1938: The seventh edition of The Ruth D. Maurer Handbook of Beauty Culture is revised in January. 1940 and beyond: Accounts of Maurer seem to drastically decrease once we reach the late 1930s to early 1940s. Although historical evidence substantiating the time of her passing seems to be obscured, it is possible that Mrs. Maurer passed away at some point within the two decades following 1940 at the age of 69. In spite of the information we have available on Maurer, there are still some questions that remain unanswered: Where did she get her beauty education? Who was her teacher? What inspired her to write textbooks, create a product line and start a school? Sadly, she lived during a time when records that could have provided such information were scarce, and a person’s backstory and professional merit were largely based on word of mouth. If such documents did exist some 100 years ago, they have not been discovered. Even so, the legacy of Emily Lloyd lives on through the continued success of the Marinello School. It is absolutely fascinating to know that over a century ago, this intriguing woman who was writing about facts and procedures of the skin care industry has only recently been rediscovered as Emily Lloyd. A beautician, author, educator, product developer, business owner, activist and industry advocate, Mrs. Ruth D. Johnson Maurer was ahead of her time in every way. She set the standard, and accomplished all that anyone in our great industry possibly can—at any point in time. n Eli Jones is the direc­ tor of education for Mark Lees Skin Care, Inc. He is a licensed es­ thetician in Florida and North Carolina, an edu­ cator and a CIDESCO Diplomate. With his years of advanced train­ ing and experience as an undergraduate educa­ tor, Jones continues to help estheticians gain a better understanding of skin care through his informative articles, speaking engagements and teaching for postgraduate education.

Page 38 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

images: Shutterstock.com

Maurer’s advice on hairstyles and trends was just as revered as her advice on skin care.

investors not being able to procure the rights to the product line in the sale of the Marinello name. Regardless of the situation, Maurer likely created this new line in order to continue developing products independent of the Marinello brand. Maurer’s patent for what would become a Ruth Maurer New York bottle design is issued on June 24th. Circa 1930. Mrs. Maurer turns down a proposition by the NHCA to merge her association with theirs. The reasons for her declining this opportunity are unknown; the full terms of the proposal have not been disclosed. One account in NHCA’s Golden Years recalls the following: “The Board of Directors met with the officers of the Beauty Industry Manufacturers’ Association to solicit the help of the manufacturers to bring about the amalgamation of the Cosmeticians and the [NHCA]. Mrs. Ruth Maurer, founder of the Cosmeticians Association, had been successfully conducting the educational department of the international beauty show … The board was willing to compromise by offering to have Mrs. Maurer [serve as] co-chairman of the [NHCA’s] educational program and [the ACA’s executive secretary serve as] manager of a joint trade show, if this would result in a merger. The proposition was not acceptable to them.” 1931: Our Minds and Ourselves, a book that discusses the mind and how it correlates to the body, is published by the Green Printing Company of New York and credited to Ruth D. Maurer. The first edition of The Ruth D. Maurer Handbook of Beauty Culture is published in May. The second edition of The Ruth D. Maurer Handbook of Beauty Culture is revised in October. 1932: The third edition of The Ruth D. Maurer Handbook of Beauty Culture is revised in April. 1933: The fourth edition of The Ruth D. Maurer Handbook of Beauty Culture is revised in October. 1935: An article published on August 11 by the Associated Press quotes Ruth Maurer as saying, “The ‘back to brunette’ movement now underway ends a ‘gentlemen prefer blondes’ period extending back at least 20 years,” while speaking to a group at the ACA’s annual convention in Chicago. Being an all-around beauty expert, Maurer’s advice on hairstyles and trends was just as revered as her advice on skin care. The fifth edition of The Ruth D. Maurer Hand­ book of Beauty Culture is revised in September.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #240 on reader service card

MICRODERMABRASION IN THE WINTERTIME MANY MISCONCEPTIONS EXIST ABOUT MICRODERMabrasion. There is a great deal of confusion about how it works and what it can do for your clients’ skin, but it is still a powerful, relevant tool for estheticians that should definitely be utilized. Micro/Derm/Abrasion: Microscopically abrade (remove) the top layer of the epidermis to improve the skin’s elasticity, texture and clarity. A physical removal of dead skin cells (not chemical, in which certain acids dissolve the spinosum, which is the glue

that holds all the dead cells in its place) by way of a flow of crystals (aluminum oxide, salt, baking soda or diamond tip) that loosen and lift the cells, then a vacuum (negative pressure) draws the skin close to the apparatus, sweeps away the cells and crystals while increasing the circulation of lymph and blood. Under the microscope, the skin looks like overlapping fish scales. Microdermabrasion creates results in two areas of the skin, the epidermis and the subcutaneous tissue.

Page 40 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

photo: Orange Line Media/Shutterstock.com

BY JENNIFER ANDERSON

skin

The epidermis is the surface of the skin. The skin is a living organ that will protect itself. Therefore, when you exfoliate the skin, it goes into survival mode. The basal layer is where all the cells are produced and start kicking out new cells. These new cells replace the old cells that have been removed from the epidermis; hence cellular turnover is increased. During this process, collagen and elastin fibroblasts (connective fibers of the skin that support it’s form) both get stimulated, increasing the firmness of the skin. This is how I explain it to my clients: “Microdermabrasion is a controlled trauma procedure. The nursery layer where all the cells are generated from gets stimulated. After three to four treatments, depending on the client, the basal layer gets fatigued, and calls for backup from the dermis. Then collagen and elastin are produced.” Subcutaneous tissue lies under the skin, where blood and lymph are present. Lymph and blood flow are increased due to the negative pressure that removes the crystals and dead skin cells from the surface of the skin; these cells are drawn back into the machine. Lymph is the toxic waste dump of the body and has two functions; it supplies all cells with moisture and nutrients. Lymph also draws toxins away from cells, keeping them in optimal health. Lymph does not move throughout the body on its own; it moves by way of muscle contraction, massage and natural body movement. There is a specific direction you must move the apparatus in so that the negative pressure (massage) can be fully utilized, always moving out and down toward the lymph nodes that specifically filter the lymph. Oxidation to the skin happens when the negative pressure moves the lymph and draws blood to the skin’s surface, which stimulates circulation to nourish and oxidize the skin.

Results I explain to my clients that results vary from one individual to the next. I also let them know that the longer it took to get the skin condition they now have, the more treatments they will need. Overall, the skin becomes healthier, looks fresher and appears younger. The following results can be achieved from microdermabrasion treatments: • Sun damage is reversed. • Hyperpigmentation is lightened or removed. • Acne scars and pore size are minimized; thus the texture of the skin is improved. • Tone and clarity due to blood and lymph circulation appears even. • Elasticity and firmness are increased due to the exfoliation process. • Skin is restored to its natural beauty, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles is diminished. • Oil production is reduced in oily complexions. November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Treatment regime Anyone who wants healthier and younger looking skin can benefit from a microdermabrasion treatment. Clients can have one treatment per week for consecutive weeks (up to 12 if necessary) to achieve optimal results. As a therapist, I want to make sure that a client goes through their treatment regime to get them through a full cell cycle. A cell cycle can range anywhere from 21 to 45 days. Completing a full cell cycle ensures that they get the best results. Keeping treatments close to one another ensures that the basal layer is continually stimulated; this is important for elastin and collagen synthesis.

MICRODERMABRASION RESULTS ARE BOTH IMMEDIATE AND LONG TERM, UNVEILING NEWER, HEALTHIER SKIN.

Maintenance is necessary and encouraged, as it is impossible to stop the aging process. Clients can have one treatment per month, every third month and so on. Remember that clients are not all the same. Each individual has different home regimes and lifestyles. The professional must listen and take account of their specific needs and desired results. It is always recommended that each client use pharmaceutical skin care products with SPF protection to shield the newly exfoliated skin. When you have removed the dead skin layer, skin care products can be more quickly penetrated, providing the skin with an immediate surge of moisture, nutrients, acids and vitamins. Always inform them that 20 percent of their results happen in the treatment room, while 80 percent happen at home.

Application protocol • Wear gloves and a mask. • Cleanse twice with lukewarm water and no steam; there is no need to draw up circulation before using the vacuum. • Use an alcohol based toner/astringent solution. This thoroughly dries the skin due to fast evaporation, and removes all evidence of cleanser. Since this is a dry process, the professional must not leave the skin moist. The use of a two to five percent chemical acid can start the exfoliating process by dissolving the dead skin cells even before they are loosened and swept away. It kills bacteria as well. Microdermabrasion procedure: • Move the apparatus down and out toward the lymph nodes. • Remove all crystals. This process differs depending on which crystals are being utilized. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 41

skin|microdermabrasion in the wintertime

Hand Held Mag Lamp

8 Bright White LED lights

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• Extractions are the easiest to perform and yield the best results at this time. • Do an ultrasound. • Apply a mask to nourish, moisturize, calm and treat the skin. • A moisturizer with an SPF protects the new skin from further damage. This skin is now photosensitive. The exposure to outdoor elements and indoor heating in the wintertime can take a toll on skin. Microdermabrasion results are both immediate and long term, unveiling newer, healthier skin. As an added bonus, microdermabrasion also helps with photodamage, fine lines and wrinkles! Microdermabrasion treatments are great for all seasons, but they are especially beneficial during the cooler months!

Contraindications It is the professional’s responsibility to prescreen each potential client. Some clients will not be able to take advantage of microdermabrasion procedures because of the following: • Active or open acne lesions, such as pustules. • Rosacea (depending on the client). Never do microdermabrasion on a client with rosacea when their skin is inflamed. • Pregnancy. Hyperpigmentation masking may be stimulated due to hormone levels. • Dermatitis. This inflammatory condition may flare up. • Broken capillaries. The vacuum or negative pressure may make the condition worse. • Herpes simplex I and II. Microdermabrasion can cause an outbreak of this pre-existing condition for the client. • HIV and AIDS. The skin is thinned, and can cause lesions due to a compromised immune system. • Diabetes. The skin of individuals with diabetes is extremely compromised by the many medications they must take. • Tattoos. Tattoos are at risk of being lightened by microdermabrasion services. n

Jennifer Anderson is a public speak­ er, master makeup artist and beauty industry educator with over 21 years of experience. She is a licensed para­ medical esthetician who has been part of the developmental teams for skin care and makeup lines. Anderson hosts the weekly Internet radio show About FACE on Rhino On Air, and is the owner of Skin Chic Inc. She is the director of the About BEAUTY networking group, and has written curriculums for two Florida beauty institutes. Visit www.skinchicinc.com for more information, and hear her show at www.rhinoonair.com.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card

Page 42 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

Treat your clients to an autumn-themed treatment with HydroPeptide®’s new Acne Clarifying Power Boost Professional Pumpkin Peel. The formula can make a difference after being left on sensitive skin types for only three minutes. The clarifying facial smells like pumpkin pie, and is the most indulgent way to repair post-summer skin and look radiant for the holidays. www.hydropeptide.com

HEALTHY HYDRATION The Jetsetter travel kit by PCA SKIN® is the perfect holiday gift for travelers. A sophisticated travel bag contains a Hydrating Serum, Après Peel Hydrating Balm and Hydrator Plus Broad Spectrum SPF 30. These premium products work to provide reduced transepidermal water loss, improved elasticity and collagen stimulation. www.pcaskin.com

GIVING BACK To give back to those in need during the holiday season, Christina Cosmeceuticals is donating five percent of every purchase from their Wish collection to one of the children’s charities listed on their website’s home page. The Wish collection consists of professional facial and home care formulated to increase eye and neck hydration, reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity. www.christinacosmeceuticals.com

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

SKINNEWS

PLEASING PUMPKIN

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

ADVANCED ANTI-AGING

SEA JEWEL The new Ocean+ skin care line, developed in collaboration with the National Research Center of Canada and teaching hospitals, offers the world’s only 99.7 percent pure soluble native marine collagen type 1, and the patented breakthrough Omega 3 NOXvp, says the company. This niche product line is designed to target conditions for which few alternative solutions are available. www.oceanplus.com

Rhonda Allison’s ChronoPeptide A provides 24-hour youth supporting benefits. It promotes brighter skin tone, stimulates collagen synthesis and exfoliates to rejuvenate, tone and firm the skin. ChronoPeptide A uses an intelligent chrono-peptide to trigger circadian genes and activate the skin’s natural defenses against environmental stressors during the day, as well as promote cell regeneration at night. www.RhondaAllison.com MORE NEWS www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 43

SKINNEWS

HYDRATING BOOST

CLEAN AND CLEAR! Control Corrective Skincare System’s Exfo Tonic gives the gift of clear skin for teens and anyone suffering from acne. The exfoliating antiseptic tone helps stop acne on the spot. This invigorating tonic can be used to help control excess oil, dissolve hardened cellular debris and lighten postblemish hyperpigmentation, says the company. www.controlcorrective.com

PEPTIDE POWER The cutting-edge new Filler Face by Dermclar USA plumps up wrinkles on cheeks, nasolabial folds and perioral lines to deliver a youthful appearance. The formula includes a novel hexapeptide that stimulates the adipogenesis rate and promotes volumizing action on the cheeks and other desired facial areas, says the company. Other key active ingredients include vitamin E, hyaluronic acid and hydrolized soy proteins. www.dermclarusa.com

STOCKING SAMPLER The Travel/Trial Set of premium skin care products from Definitions Skincare make a great stocking stuffer. The regimen kit contains the Fruit Acid Cleansing Crème, BHA Resurfacer, Gene Therapy Moisturizer and Cpeel Mask, all in package sizes suitable for air travel. www.definitionsskincare.com

The Collagen Ampoule by Lam Skin Care Products is especially formulated to restore skin’s elasticity and moisture retention, preventing stretch marks and promoting a youthful appearance. www.lamskin.com

OUTDOOR GODDESS Adventuress is a new skin care collection specially formulated for outdoor adventurers, designed to combat nature’s elements. Made with the finest natural ingredients, Adventuress was designed for thrill-seekers with varying degrees of skin sensitivities and allergies. The Intro Offer Collection consists of a lightweight travel friendly case containing all seven of the Adventuress products for a complete on-thego skin care regimen, designed to tuck neatly into a motorcycle’s saddlebag, backpack, gym bag or other type of luggage. www.goadventuress.com

Page 44 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

spa

the pain of sciatica

photo: Yuganov Konstantin/Shutterstock.com

by Laura Allen

SCIATICA IS A PAIN IN THE REAR— literally. The sciatic nerve originates in the lower spine and travels down the back of the legs, innervating the posterior knee and distal leg muscles, and causing sensations from the upper part of the leg down to the bottom of the feet. Due to the nerve taking a route around the lateral leg, pain can also radiate to the top of the foot and the toes. It’s a painful malady that isn’t actually a medical condition—it is only a symptom of an underlying condition. Sciatic pain occurs whenever there is trauma or pressure from another structure on the sciatic nerve. It’s one of those things that keep massage therapists in business. Sciatica can be caused by any number of things; one common cause is probably nerve compression brought on by a herniated disc in the lumbar area. An overly taut piriformis muscle can also be the culprit in sciatic nerve impingement. Pain, tingling, numbness, burning sensations and muscle weakness may occur in varying combinations and intensity levels. The pain is sometimes severe enough to seriously interfere with movement and daily living activities. Sciatica is confounding as well; some sufferers will find that it is aggravated by sitting, while others may find it is aggravated by standing. People who spend most of their day at a desk or traveling in an automobile or cramped airline seats are prime candidates—although walking a lot can aggravate it too. Pregnant women often suffer from sciatica, due to weight gain and the change in their center of gravity. And even though rest is a good thing, sciatica often gets worse when

Loosening taut bands of muscle with deep tissue massage is an effective approach. someone takes to their bed for a long period of time. Sciatica often goes away by itself— but it can return at any time. Depending on the severity, duration and cause of the symptoms, physicians may prescribe over-the-counter painkillers, prescription drugs, specific exercises and ice or heat. Some enlightened doctors may even prescribe massage! Massage of the lower back, sacral area, gluteal muscles and posterior leg is often just what the client needs. Loosening taut bands of muscle with deep tissue massage is an effective approach. Sciaticalike pain may also be caused by trigger points in the hip muscles, which has nothing to do with the sciatic nerve itself. Neuromuscular therapy can release the trigger points when that’s the case. Even a good, firm Swedish massage helps with the pain. Gentle rocking of the sacral area can also be beneficial.

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

As massage therapists, educating the client on proper self-care is part of our job. Demonstrating stretches for the client to do at home, suggesting a warm soaking bath, alternating ice and heat therapy—even self-massage for when they simply can’t get in for an appointment with you—is a good thing. Remind those who are deskbound of the importance of getting up every hour or so during the workday to have a good stretch. A flare-up of sciatica is also an opportunity to educate a sporadic client about making massage a regular part of their wellness maintenance routine. n

Laura Allen is a massage therapist, author, continuing education provider and blogger. She is the owner of THERASSAGE, a multi-disciplinary clinic located in Rutherfordton, NC. You can visit her website at www.LauraAllenMT.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 45

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5. Pomegranate Soufflé Scrub SPICES SPA REMEDY www.homespacollection.com

3. Zenfresh Body Polish BOTANOLUTION www.botanolution.com

6. Fresh Fig Skin Stick RINSE CO. www.rinsesoap.com

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7. Mini Travel Kit 19 SEAS SKINCARE SOUTH www.southseasskincare.com

20 Body Butter 8. Organic ORGANIC OLIVE ESSENCE www.organicoliveessence.com

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14. Stem Cells Eye 15 Complex NATURE PURE LABS www.naturepure.com

12. Rose Jasmine Candle FLEUR’S www.lespausa.com

15. Essential Anti-Aging Hand & Foot Duo DERMELECT COSMECEUTICALS www.dermelect.com

13. Orange Clove Natural Soap TERRA DOLCE www.terradolcespa.com

16. Nourishing Smoothing Body Scrub DARPHIN www.darphin.com

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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1. Aria Sonic Cleansing Brush CLARISONIC www.clarisonic.com 2. GlamEars CLEVER GIRL INNOVATIONS www.clevergirlinnovations.com 3. Nail Polish Gift Set DURI COSMETICS www.duricosmetics.com

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7. Booster Salve13 BUDDHA NOSE www.buddhanose.com

5. Peppermint Lip Balm NARDO’S NATURAL www.nardosnatural.com

8. Generosity Lip Bliss WHAT’S YOUR VIRTUE? www.whatsyourvirtue.com

6. Iced Plum Lush Lips DURI COSMETICS www.duricosmetics.com

9. Emerald Green & Ruby Red Nail Polish LCN www.lcnusa.com

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12. Wrinkle Prevention Pillow ABOUT FACE www.wrinklepreventionpillow.com

11. Whoopie! Confectionery Candle FARMHOUSE FRESH www.farmhousefreshgoods.com

13. Colossal Pedicure Rasp MICROPLANE www.transformyoursoles.com

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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4. Rose Champagne Gel D’VINE www.dvinellc.com 5. Pumpkin Scrub PRANA SPACEUTICALS www.spaskincareproducts.org 6. Evanescent Mask SESHA SKIN THERAPY www.seshaskin.com

7. Damascena and White Tea Antioxidant Hydrating Face Mask PRIMA FLEUR www.primafleur.com 8. Luxurious Cleansing Cream PROVENCE COSMETICS www.provencecosmetics.com 9. Forever Young Beginner’s Kit For Men CHRISTINA www.christina-cosmeceuticals.com

Page 54 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

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10. Cranberry Sugar Cane Enzyme SKIN SCRIPT 13 www.skinscriptrx.com

12. Shave Cream TAROCCO www.calicosmetics.com

11. Stem Cell Replenishing Mask 14 LUCRECE PHYSICIANS’ 20 AESTHETIC RESEARCH www.lucrece.com

13. Creamy Cleanser PCA SKIN www.pcaskin.com

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15. Drop of Essence Hydration Drops RHONDA ALLISON 19 www.rhondaallison.com 16. Normal Skin System 20 SANITAS SKINCARE www.sanitas-skincare.com

14. Phospholipid GF Moisturizer LUSKUS 13 www.luksuscosmetics.com

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1. Quad Pressed Shadow Compact 14 MINERALOGIE www.mineralogie.biz

4. Conditioning Liquid Eyeliner LASHFOOD www.lashfood.com

7. Opal CLARISONIC 11 www.clarisonic.com

2. Instant Redness Diffuser 15 MD CORRECTIVE CARE www.mdcorrectivecare.com

5. Energy Eyes Roll-on GERMAINE DE CAPUCCINI http://germainesouth.com www.acispa.com

8. Radiant Shine Holiday20 Package 15 12 MINERALOGIE www.mineralogie.biz

3. Eye Lift Perfector MURAD www.murad.com

6. Holiday Collection 2012 BODYOGRAPHY www.bodyography.com

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12. Clean Slate Oil Free 13 Makeup Remover RAPIDLASH www.rapidlash.com

11. Anti-Fatigue Eye Mask Kit CHELLA www.chella.com

13. Vibri-Onyx CAILYN www.cailyncosmetics.com

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15. Croisette Quattro ANTONYM COSMETICS www.antonymcosmetics.com 16. Sleigh Bell Shimmer Dust GLOMINERALS www.gloprofessional.com 17. Simply Magical Beauty Collection JANE IREDALE - THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP www.janeiredale.com www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 57

vibroacoustic

photos: Shutterstock.com

THERAPY

Page 58 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

spa

A DEEPER DIMENSION IN WELLNESS YOUR SPA MAY BE GORGEOUS,WITH AN AMAZINGLY CALM atmosphere and a personal touch, highlighted with candles and soft music. Despite this pleasant setting, you may still sense that something is missing. So what is the missing link to relaxation? It could possibly be vibroacoustic therapy, a deeply relaxing treatment that creates a space in the body to be harmonically attuned and balanced, mentally and physically.

What does that mean? On a daily basis, people run themselves ragged with home duties, work, social obligations and so on, like rats in a maze. Even if we are in a healthy, loving relationship, have a job that we love, and whatever else constitutes a “good life” for us—stress still manages to invade our space. Even when we take a walk or sit in silence, the mind can be overwhelmed by an endless chatter of to-do lists and scenarios we create in our minds, most of which are “painted” by our imagination. A spa session is usually a little present people treat themselves to when they want to take a break from the race in the maze. A good massage with aromatic candles and soft music is a great experience. A deep tissue massage reaches the deepest layers of our physical system, and zooms into all organs and cells. However, a typical massage resets the mind from its nonstop inner chatter of creating imaginative “what if” scenarios. In a vibroacoustic therapy session, the client experiences a low sound frequency, deep tissue inner body massage that makes organs, tissues and cells vibrate. It resets the mind from its “inner spaghetti” (of thoughts, emotions, sensations, memories and imagination), and harmonizes the body’s subsystems (the immune, blood, nerve, muscles, bones, hormones and cells). To better understand the process of the harmonic body and mind attunement that takes place, imagine every organ and system in the body as a unique instrument, all of which come together to form an orchestra. Each body part has its own rhythm, however only the conductor brings harmony to the whole orchestra. Vibroacoustic therapy treatment harmonically attunes all parts of the body and mind. After a 23-minute experience, one usually feels a deep, soothing sensation of calmness, together with recharged energies and sharp senses. The process converts energy that is being wasted on bad habits and negative attitudes into tolerance, better communication, love and creativity. continues

BY AVIGAIL BERG-PANITZ November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 59

spa|vibroacoustic therapy

A vibroacoustic treatment enables one to not only reduce or eliminate pain, stress and insomnia, but to recharge energies, perceive the expanded possibilities and creative answers to challenges beyond the maze. You must be equipped with the following in order to add vibroacoustic therapy to your spa: • A space (a room or a hall) • A mattress, massage table or recliner • Frequencies The room should be very neutral in colors and design. The idea is to enable

the client to take a journey inward, and not be derailed by external triggers (like noise) or emotional triggers (whether conscious or unconscious). I recommend doing silent sessions. However, if a person feels anxious or uncomfortable with silence, neutral background music can be played at a low volume. Vibroacoustic therapy was invented about 30 years ago by Olav Skille, a scientist, therapist, musician and educator. He discovered that low sound frequencies ranging from 30Hz to 12Hz while attached to the body vibrate organs, tissues and cells—and in fact can reduce

or eliminate pain, stress and insomnia. Additionally, they can boost vitality and mind clarity—with no chemicals involved. In Nordic countries, vibroacoustic therapy is incorporated into physical therapy, psychotherapy and alternative medicine such as massage, acupuncture and yoga. Vibroacoustic therapy (VAT) can be applied as a stand alone attunement session. It can add value to your business in the following ways: 1. You can purchase more than one mattress of the vibroacoustic therapy and have a hall dedicated to attunement and inner peace. One therapist can be in charge of guiding the people, allowing them to enter their sessions and setting the frequencies. 2. Every one-on-one treatment can be extended with vibroacoustic therapy experience, and as result you can charge more for the combined treatment. 3. You can hire a special life coach/ psychotherapist who is trained to help people replace bad habits with better ones. These professionals can help clients develop management skills for anger, pain, stress and weight issues. They can also help improve the performance of athletes, students, performing artists or anyone else who wants to enhance their skills in a particular area. Vibroacoustic therapy can be incorporated into any wellness and preventive medicine approach. It can be utilized to help manage acute/chronic pain and stress, replace bad habits, expand perception to connect to a spiritual dimension, and tap into creativity, insight and innovation. n

Avigail Berg-Panitz is the owner of Silent­ SoundSpace Vibroacoustic Therapy. Con­ sultants can be reached at avigailberg@ gmail.com or 561.277.8282. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #103 on reader service card

Page 60 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

wanted: those seeking greatness

Discover your unique potential and achieve your personal best. Become a PCA SKIN Certified Professional.

Greatness begins here.

Call PCA SKIN today at 877.PCA.PEEL [722.7335], visit www.pcaskin.com or email education@pcaskin.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #110 on reader service card

WINTER SPECIFIC SPA THERAPIES BRING WARMTH AND CHEER

Page 62 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com

happy spa-lidays

spa

top to bottom: Shutterstock.com; Maks Narodenko/Shutterstock.com

The benefits of pumpkin Pumpkin packs in a range of antioxidants, vitamins and enzymes, making it a good match with a number of skin types and needs. Pumpkin is most widely known for its repair qualities, particularly overexposure to the sun and damage from other free radicals. It can enhance the effectiveness of exfoliation by helping to dissolve

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

dry skin cells, reducing inflammation, minimizing pore size and providing hydration.

The benefits of peppermint A blend of spearmint and watermint, peppermint-infused oil is an invigorating massage option. Senses are awakened by its refreshing scent, and the herb is believed to help alleviate nerve and muscle pain, especially when blended with the appropriate massage techniques. PUMPKIN REFRESH (Ideally, all ingredients should be organic) 2 Tbs. pumpkin pulp 1 Tbs. pumpkin seed oil 2 Tbs. pure cane sugar 1 Tbs. shea butter Mix ingredients together in a bowl with a spatula. Test consistency, and gradually add shea butter until desired exfoliation strength is achieved. WARMING PUMPKIN MASQUE 3 Tbs. pumpkin pulp 1 Tbs. honey 1/2 Tbs. coconut milk Mix ingredients together in a bowl and immediately apply to the body for maximum consistency and effectiveness. Larger areas may require additional product. If this is the case, break the process up into two parts, creating the mixture and applying it to half of the body first, then repeating the steps for the second half. PEPPERMINT MASSAGE OIL Blend equal parts pure peppermint oil and cocoa oil together in a glass bottle. Additional items needed: • Sheets and other blankets for massage table set-up • Thermal blanket • Plastic sheet • Body brush continues

BY MARIZZA CONTRERAS

‘TIS THE SEASON FOR FAMILY GATHERINGS, parties and delicious treats. Unfortunately, none of these come without stresses to both the mind and body. The winter months are no time to pass on spa treatments; in fact, this time of year presents many opportunities to create unique therapies that build upon the holiday spirit. As the weather chills, familiar scents and thermal touches can warm both body and soul. Culinary favorites can be translated into the spa experience as well. The hips are spared calories from indulgent splurges, while the skin absorbs all the beauty benefits from the speciality ingredients. Indulgences aside, it is important for spa treatments to balance beauty with wellness. This involves incorporating environmentally friendly and ethically harvested products, and emphasizing the importance of maintaining a healthy lifestyle that promotes the renewal of body and mind beyond the actual spa visit. Continuing education on these topics enhances a therapist’s ability to truly impact the client’s full understanding of oneself, which is the ultimate goal of the industry. The rooftop Wellness Garden & Spa at The Betsy Hotel on South Beach, FL has introduced a limited-edition Pumpkin Refresh body treatment, which harnesses the anti-aging agents of this vibrant fruit with other winter-themed touches, such as a thermal wrap and a concluding peppermint cocoa-infused massage. The spa offers this limited-edition treatment November through January, yet a comparable version can be created with the right ingredients and techniques.

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 63

spa|happy spa-lidays

• Optional: Tropical showers (for outdoor spas) or Vichy showers (for indoor spas)

BEGIN WITH MASQUE APPLICATION (APPROXIMATELY 15 MINUTES TOTAL), STARTING WITH LEGS AND MOVING UP THE BODY USING AN APPLICATION BRUSH. AVOID THE FEET, HANDS AND FACE. 3. Ask the client which position they prefer to begin their treatment: sitting upright with their head relaxing forward, a supine position or a prone position. 4. To maximize effectiveness and nutrient absorption, gently brush the skin to remove the first layer of dead skin cells. Use a dry spa brush and move once over the entire body in circular motions, always working upward. 5. Apply exfoliation in circular motions moving upward, starting with back, shoulders and neck (this process should take approximately 20 minutes). Conclude treatment on each area with one long stroke. Wash off with a warm, moist towel before repositioning the client to cover the remaining areas. 6. Repeat this technique on the chest, stomach, limbs, hands and feet, covering each area with a dry towel or sheet following the removal of product to maintain warmth. 7. Begin with masque application (approximately 15 minutes total), starting with legs and moving up the body using an application brush. Avoid the feet, hands and face. Wrap client in

plastic wrap and a thermal blanket, and allow them to relax for an additional 10-15 minutes. A scalp, hand and/or foot massage may enhance this resting stage of the treatment. 8. Remove masque with method of choice, preferably using warm towels or a Vichy shower for minimal disruption to the client’s relaxation experience. If using a Vichy shower, set the table with additional dry sheets and blankets under the plastic sheet, to transition it into a dry area suitable for concluding the treatment. 9. Gently dab cool towels on the skin to boost circulation, and cover the completed area immediately with a sheet to maintain comfort. The body is now ready for the invigoration stage. 10. Conclude treatment with a 25-minute massage using a mixture of peppermint and cocoa oil; incorporate techniques according to the client’s needs and preferences. 11. Give client a warm send-off, after allowing for extra relaxation time and answering questions. To enhance the experience, consider offering edible treats. Healthy alternatives are ideal, such as items with reduced-sugar and fat. n

Marizza Contreras is founder and president of Miami City Massage, a mobile spa company and K’Alma, a spa consultation, implementation and management service. Contreras oversees The Wellness Garden & Spa at The Betsy and Z Spa at the Z Ocean hotel. For more information, visit www.miamicitymassageinc.com, or contact her directly at marizza@miamicitymassageinc.com.

Page 64 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

photo: Justin S./Shutterstock.com

PROTOCOL 1. Greet client and ask them to complete a questionnaire detailing any current ailments or health concerns. This treatment is not recommended for clients who have rashes or open wounds. 2. Suggested: Set the relaxation tone with a special ritual before commencing treatment. At the Betsy Wellness Garden & Spa, each treatment begins with a signature mini raw mineral foot wash and massage to ground the spirit and enhance the body’s connection to the Earth.

HIGH TECH DETAILS Scalar America, a supplier of hightech skin analysis equipment, and From the Neck Up, a group of experienced education oriented estheticians, unveil the compact, all-in-one My Personal Assistant system. Both surface and subsurface images can be taken anywhere on the body with a simple handheld device. Images are stored, along with moisture and sebum levels, in client files. This firsthand look at before and after treatment images encourages clients to continue their professional skin care! www.scalaramerica.com www.fromtheneckuplv.com

Add the intriguing Black Pepper gift set from Chosen Selection by Ava M to your retail shelves. It includes a shower gel, body lotion and body butter. Chosen Selection products are made with quality ingredients, and are specially formulated to pamper the skin with the care it deserves. www.chosenselection.com

PAMPERING PACKAGES

ALL PURPOSE FRESHENER La Fresh Travel Lite amenity towelettes make a perfect addition to your holiday retail lineup, as they are the perfect stocking stuffer for anyone, especially out of towners traveling home after the holidays! The ultra-convenient towelettes come in 12 different varieties, with a wipe to address every need. The range spans from facial cleansing wipes, male and female hygiene wipes to minty mouth scrublets. These portable wipes are small in size, designed for practicality and easy to apply discreetly—whenever and wherever. www.lafreshgroup.com

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

This year, fill your retail shelves with the truly luxurious, beautifying Holiday Gift Sets from Repêchage. The iconic, seaweed-based skin care and body care products are arranged in three varieties of beautiful limited-edition sets, including Holiday Bath Bliss, Relaxation Staycation and Head to Toe Luxuries. www.repechage.com

SPANEWS

PEPPER WITH PERFECTION!

BODY, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS

NEW SIZE! Bio-Therapeutic has unveiled a new look and size for their bt-Cocktail™ retail kits. The award-winning product is now available in a one ounce size, perfect for a stocking stuffer or holiday travelers. www.bio-therapeutic.com

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 65

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BRUSH ON RAPIDLASH EYELASH ENHANCING SERUM BEFORE BED AND SAY GOOD MORNING TO LUSCIOUS LOOKING EYELASHES AND BROWS IN JUST 4 WEEKS. • SAFE: Dermatologist & Ophthalmologist Tested • EASY: Brush on RapidLash once a day • EFFECTIVE: Clinically proven to promote fuller looking and thicker looking lashes • AFFORDABLE: Just 49.50, far less than expensive than competitive products

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business

5 steps to generating revenue through guest consultation

by Dori Soukup

photo: Shutterstock.com

THE “GUEST” IS THE MOST ESSENtial component to the success of any spa business. The way we take care of our guests while they are in the spa is what determines whether they come back or disappear forever. When I ask spa professionals why they chose a career in the spa industry, most of them say it was so that they could help people. Yet when a new guest visits a spa, they are normally expected to simply select a treatment from the menu, with is then administered with little (if any) discussion. Sometimes I intentionally select a treatment from the menu that is wrong for me to see if the therapist will recommend something else more ideally suited for me. They rarely do. Why? Because in most cases, spa professionals don’t take the time to conduct a proper guest consultation. To me, the guest consultation is the most important step of the entire experience. The consultation insures that spa professionals are going to provide the guest with exactly what they need, address their challenges and deliver the results they are looking for. Without a consultation, we are disappointing our guests and hurting our retention rate. If you want to improve your guest satisfaction, retention rate and income, I suggest implementing the following five steps to generating revenue through guest consultation. 1. SCHEDULE TIME TO CONDUCT A DETAILED CONSULTATION When you have a new client, you should always reserve a consultation first in order to learn and discover their concerns and needs. It’s wise to have the receptionist reserve time for a treatment and a consultation. Have the therapist decide

which treatment is ideal for the guest once a consultation is performed. To do this, your receptionist must be trained on how to present the consultation appointment and make the reservation for it. 2. IDENTIFY GUEST CONCERNS To identify the guest’s concerns, you can use analysis equipment for face, body and hair, depending on the type of treatments you offer. We found that when people see their skin care issues with their own eyes, they are more motivated to take action on your recommendations. You can also use consultation forms; just make sure the form includes problems that guests could be experiencing with their face, body and nails. The guest will mark the concerns they have, which gives you the opportunity to make the appropriate recommendations. You should focus on solving their problems via your menu of services.

5. MEASURE RESULTS Since the goal is to recommend a series of treatments with your consultation, it’s important to measure results and gain a testimonial from happy clients. You can take before and after pictures, document conditions or measure improvements. Whichever method you choose, make sure you gain a raving fan to help build your business.

3. DEVELOP A CUSTOMIZED TREATMENT PROGRAM Addressing people’s concerns and gaining results normally requires multiple treatments. As a spa professional, you should recommend a series of treatments, not just one. One treatment is not going to solve problems or produce the results your guests are looking for.

Conducting a guest consultation is truly the most important function of your spa. It is the foundation of the entire experience. Don’t dismiss it, embrace it! Implementing the consultation process with every new guest will help you boost client satisfaction and your income! n

4. RECOMMEND A HOME CARE PROGRAM At the end of the first treatment, take the time to help your guests by recommending a home care regimen. Home care is an important part of gaining results. Don’t cheat your guests of your professional advice or lose the additional income you could generate from home care products.

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks globally in conventions and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@ insparationmanagement.com.

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 67

photo: Sergej Khakimullin/Shutterstock.com

business

HOW TO MARKET YOUR SPA BUSINESS

during the holidays CLIENTS ARE SEARCHING FOR GIFTS FOR LOVED ONES. MAKE THEIR LIVES EASIER WITH BEAUTIFULLY PACKAGED GIFT SETS, STOCKING STUFFERS AND PETITE GIFTS RANGING IN SIZE AND PRICE.

AH, THE HOLIDAYS ... A TIME WHEN NEARLY EVERY retailer, business owner and marketer wants to capture even a thin slice of the consumer spending budget. Many spend all year planning their promotions and marketing initiatives. Before we know it, the holidays are here and consumers are on the lookout for unique and easy gift ideas. So don’t fret if you haven’t planned your holiday promotions—there is still time to make the most of this festive season. In creating your holiday marketing plan, take a look at the past, present and future. What worked last year? What didn’t work? Are there any common trends or threads among your clients and their requests or needs? Is there a product or service you’re ramping up for 2013? These are all important components to effective planning. Though planning for this season will begin as early as the summer, it doesn’t always happen. So if that is true for you, or if you’re looking to refresh your current plan, allot some time now to dedicate to your holiday promotions.

Tap into the joy of the season Most people love the holiday season. For many, it’s a time of gift giving, travel and family. Where do you fit into this mix? Think gift sets, gift certificates or special treatments geared to couples, sisters or mothers and daughters. Clients are searching for gifts for loved ones. Make their lives easier with beautifully packaged gift sets, stocking stuffers and petite gifts ranging in size and price. Pairing products together makes for easy purchasing, and clients are drawn to box sets and petite kits. Create kits that are suitable for most skin types, but still provide that “wow” factor. Typically an enzyme, hydrating and nourishing serum, and a petite cleanser/mask duo make a great gift set, as do rejuvenating eye treatment kits. Similarly, gift certificates paired with products tend to appeal to holiday shoppers, and the recipient has something to use right away that gets them excited about their service. continues

BY RHONDA ALLISON

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 69

business|how to market your spa business during the holidays

You might consider keeping holiday bows, ribbons, bags, boxes and other gift-wrapping décor on hand to make your clients’ lives easier. It can even be as simple and cost effective as gold, silver or red-colored tissue paper to give it that extra holiday touch.

Build your clientele When creating your plan, it is important to have your primary client in mind, but also think about the people in their circle. Do they have friends, family, children or a spouse you may convert into a client? Can you appeal to them with the aforementioned gift sets, special holiday treatment packages or gift certificates to make their holiday gift giving easier? Reach out to the significant others of your clientele and recommend services or products their partners would enjoy. They usually welcome and appreciate tips on what to give. Personalized outreach to your clients’ spouses gives you an opportunity to offer a gift giving idea. A “Total Day of Beauty” or “Three Peel Series Program” is an easy thing to mention to a male client as a gift idea for his wife. You can even offer to gift wrap the certificate and have it ready for them. Busy men love this, and their wives will get exactly what they wanted. The holidays are a great time to bring in new business, and reconnect with existing clients you may not have seen in awhile. Send holiday greetings to your loyal clients to show that you appreciate them; this also can serve as a reminder for those who have not come in for awhile that you are still around.

Seasonal offerings and the New Year One of the best promotions you can offer is a featured holiday facial. It gets your clients in the spirit of the season, and provides a nice reprieve from the daily hustle and bustle. Use tantalizing holiday aromas such as cinnamon, clove, pumpkin, cherry and chocolate. As much as so many people love the holidays, the season is not without its stress. It is common for stress levels to peak at this time of year. Think about offering clients a relaxing escape from the holiday hustle and bustle with a treatment that incorporates deep relaxation and massage. To inform your clients and local community about your holiday offerings, consider hosting a winter skin care clinic or pitching the idea to your local media. Focus on effective winter skin care tips and your special holiday treatments. Alternatively, you might host an open house and invite a select group of clients to experience one of your seasonal treatments, during which you can offer discounts and mini demonstrations. Holiday specials also work well. Offer two-for-one specials on certain treatments to top clients and ask them to bring a friend. Make it festive and fun, with giveaways and gift basket drawings. Looking ahead to the New Year, help clients set their skin care resolutions. Become their skin coach; develop a plan for achieving their goals and getting them started with a series of peels or corrective facials. continues

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ONE OF THE BEST PROMOTIONS YOU CAN OFFER IS A FEATURED HOLIDAY FACIAL. USE TANTALIZING HOLIDAY AROMAS SUCH AS CINNAMON, CLOVE, PUMPKIN, CHERRY AND CHOCOLATE.

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business|how to market your spa business during the holidays

Getting started In the next couple of weeks, take note of what other businesses are doing to market themselves for the holidays—it may spark some ideas. The following ideas will also help jumpstart your creative marketing juices: 1. Offer a featured holiday facial. Promote a “Winter Radiance” facial as a great escape from the holiday bus-

tle, with enticing aromas of cinnamon, cloves, cherry and chocolate. 2. Create holiday specials. Offer two-for-one specials on select treatments to top clients, and ask them to bring a new guest. Promote the offer on a printed card or email newsletter. 3. Offer gift sets, stocking stuffers and petite gifts. Beautifully packaged gifts are perfect for last minute, easy gifts for family, friends, co-workers and bosses.

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4. Target marketing. Reach out to the husbands of your clientele, and recommend services or products that their significant others would enjoy. 5. Spread the word. Let clients know you have a variety of gift options, either through printed marketing pieces, email newsletters, Facebook, Twitter or by posting pictures of your gift sets on Pinterest. Verbal reminders also work well. 6. Gift certificates. Pair gift certificates with skin care products as gift sets. 7. Host an open house. Pre­view a new treatment for 2013. Invite a select group of clients to the event; offer discounts and mini demonstrations of the treatment. 8. Partnerships. Consider partnering with others in the community or your own spa to bundle services for the holidays. 9. Educate. Host an educational winter skin care event or pitch the idea to your local media and demonstrate a skin care regimen for home use. 10. Give thanks. Send holiday greetings, thank you cards or small gift sets to clients to let them know how much you appreciate them. Bottom line: Get creative, and always listen to what your clients are asking for. Also remember that a massive marketing budget is not necessary to capture the attention of holiday shoppers. Keep it simple—but whatever you do, don’t sit the season out! n

Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RAW Skin Care for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years’ of esthetic experience. For more information, visit www.RhondaAllison. com and www.RAWmethod.com.

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THE FINANCIAL PERILS OF

INDEPENDENT CONTRACTORS VS. EMPLOYEES BY HEIDI ALESSI

THE ATTRACTIVE BENEFITS OF hiring independent contractors may have ugly consequences in the face of new federal and state government initiatives aimed at scrutinizing worker classification issues. In the spa, cosmetic and wellness industry, service providers often ask to be treated as independent contractors or “booth renters,” and owners may reap substantial financial benefits for hiring independent contractors rather than direct employees. For example, companies do not pay Social Security, Medicare or workers’ compensation taxes for independent contractors; nor

do they provide private retirement and health benefits to independent contractors. Hiring independent contractors may also save the company from the administrative burdens of complying with numerous employment laws, such as the Fair Labor Standards Act (FLSA), which requires minimum wage compensation, meals and rest periods—and stringent record keeping. However, spa owners need to be aware that hiring individuals as independent contractors without a thorough analysis of the relationship may put their business at risk if the Internal Revenue

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MISCLASSIFYING WORKERS

business

Service (IRS), U.S. Department of Labor (DOL) or a state agency disagrees with the conclusion that the service provider is an independent contractor. The DOL estimates that as many as 30 percent of all businesses misclassify workers as independent contractors, while the IRS estimates that 3.4 million workers were misclassified, resulting in a significant loss in tax revenue. As a result, the DOL, IRS and state agencies have announced additional enforcement programs to aggressively “crack down” on worker misclassification. The spa industry is likely to find itself in the crosshairs of this enforcement due to the prevalent practice of hiring independent contractors. Some states, such as California, have already targeted the industry, and provide specific guidance for proper classification. The financial consequences of misclassification are ugly and potentially catastrophic. Owners may owe the IRS back taxes for Social Security, Medicare and unemployment, as well as a variety of penalties and excise taxes for withholding and reporting errors. Owners may also face lawsuits from individuals claiming back wages, overtime, compensation for rest periods, employee benefits and punitive damages. Federal legislation has also been introduced to authorize the DOL to assess additional penalties for misclassifications.

Who truly is an independent contractor? Unfortunately, there is no easy answer to this question, as the facts of each working relationship should be analyzed individually, and federal and state employment and tax laws contain various definitions of what an employee is. Indeed, the IRS recognized last year that “in some factual situations, the determination of the proper worker classification status under common law may not be clear.” The FLSA and the DOL use an “economic realities” test, while the IRS uses a “right to control” test.

THE IRS ORDERED A CHIROPRACTIC OFFICE TO PAY BACK TAXES AND PENALTIES FOR MISCLASSIFYING A MASSAGE THERAPIST AS AN INDEPENDENT CONTRACTOR.

The economic realities test considers (1) the degree to which the person’s work is controlled by the company, (2) the individual’s investment in facilities and equipment, (3) the individual’s opportunities for profit or loss, (4) the amount of any initiative, judgment or foresight the person uses in open-market competition, (5) the permanency of the relationship, and (6) whether the individual’s work is an integral part of the organization’s business or activities. Ultimately, it comes down to whether these factors indicate that the individual is economically dependent on the company for his or her livelihood. The right to control test considers 20 factors that are grouped into three categories: behavioral control, financial control and type of relationship. The behavioral control category considers whether the company instructs and trains the worker, and whether the worker is required to follow company standards. The financial control category considers the worker’s investment, whether the worker is reimbursed for expenses, whether the worker provides services to others, whether the worker provides their own tools and supplies, how the worker is paid, and finally, whether the worker has the opportunity for profit or loss. The type of relationship category considers the permanency of the relationship, the parties’ intent, whether the worker receives other benefits from the company, and whether the individual’s

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

services are a key aspect of the company’s business. Real examples: The specific facts are what matter Prior IRS enforcement efforts provide some helpful analogies to consider. In one case, the IRS ordered a chiropractic office to pay back taxes and penalties for misclassifying a massage therapist as an independent contractor. In that case, the chiropractor was instructing the therapist on which muscle groups to massage, provided the therapist with space, paid the therapist a specific sum per massage and required the therapist to work set hours. The IRS concluded that there was a permanency to the relationship and financial dependence by the therapist that did in fact make her an employee rather than an independent contractor. In contrast, a spa owner facing over $60,000 in unpaid taxes and penalties was found to have correctly classified a massage therapist as an independent contractor. In that case, the massage therapist was independently licensed by the city, paid for his own continuing education, was compensated on a commission basis, paid the spa owner weekly rent of up to 25 percent of receipts and was able to set his own hours. On the other hand, the massage therapist worked exclusively at the spa, was integrated into the spa, and the spa booked his appointments and handled his payments. The court reviewing the case concluded that this was a “close call,” but the therapist’s financial autonomy predominated over factors indicating that the spa controlled him. While these are helpful examples for comparison, any slight change in the facts may lead to a different conclusion.

An ounce of prevention Although it may be a tedious task, it pays to protect your investment by conducting a thorough internal audit of your worker classifications. If a company can show continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 75

business|the financial perils of misclassifying workers that it was diligent in determining the proper classification, it may be eligible for relief from any potential taxes and penalties through Section 530 of the Revenue Act. Companies that can show that they have consistently treated a specific class of workers as independent contractors may be permanently relieved of federal employment tax liabilities (both retroactively and prospectively).

To conduct an internal audit, spa owners should: • Carefully review the arrangements with any workers treated as independent contractors and compare the facts at hand with the various legal tests. • Seek professional advice. • Survey the industry to determine if your practice is consistent. • Review all personnel policies and

employee benefit plans to ensure that misclassified employees are excluded. If you conclude that a worker is properly treated as an independent contractor: • Enter into a written independent contractor agreement. • Do not impose instructions, employment practices or policies on the contractor. • Do not prohibit the contractor from working for others. • Make sure that the contractor is providing their own tools and equipment. • Conduct periodic reviews to determine whether the relationship has evolved into an employment relationship. If you conclude that a worker was improperly treated as an independent contractor, you should consider remedial measures to correct the past error and implement changes prospectively. The IRS adopted a new Voluntary Classification Settlement Program last year. To encourage employers to correct past errors, employers who come forward voluntarily pay only 10 percent of the back tax liability, with no penalties or interest. However, along with Section 530 relief, this only addresses tax liability. The DOL and employees may have to be addressed separately. n

Heidi Alessi is a partner with K&L Gates, a full-service international law firm, where she is a member of the Employee Benefits, Em­ ployee Stock Option Plan (ESOP) and Executive Compensation practice group. Alessi has extensive experience advising employers on tax and employment related liabilities. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #209 on reader service card

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by Richard Linder

clients business|offer real value

reap big rewards FOR CLINICIANS, CREATING A SUCcessful practice is the ultimate goal. To accomplish this success, there are many components to consider and optimize, including effective marketing, maintaining patient-clinician relationships and your patients’ perceptions of value in the services you offer. While each of

social media network. Mershon states that the three most important reasons small businesses utilize social media are connecting with customers; visibility [and] self-promotion. Social media can be an excellent and potentially free form of marketing that is not only good for your business, but also allows you to build

photo: Shutterstock.com

In order to forge and retain positive relationships, service must be consistent, meeting or exceeding expectations with each and every patient.

these elements is unique, all three must be dependent on each other in order for a business to flourish. The very foundation of any business is attracting the patient to your practice—instead of the practice down the street. Once they walk through the door, you must earn their trust and loyalty if you want to ensure a lasting relationship. In turn, the patient must recognize value in the relationship established with you and your practice. It all starts with gaining exposure. There are many effective and inexpensive ways to gain exposure, either as a new or an existing practice. Social media is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. According to the article “26 Promising Social Media Stats for Small Businesses,” written by Phil Mershon for SocialMediaExaminer.com, more than 80 percent of Americans use at least one

customer relationships. Another statistic from this article states that 50 percent of small business owners reported gaining new customers through social media. With this type of exposure right at your fingertips, it’s almost impossible not to use platforms like Facebook and Twitter to attract and maintain your patient base. On top of that, it is a medium that can be self-managed, which saves the expense of hiring someone to do it for you. If you do decide to utilize Internet tools for marketing purposes, make sure that your webpage and social media platforms are kept updated with the latest information about your practice. They should include, for example, activities you are participating in and around your community, as well as charities you support. You can post before and after pictures of your patients, feature different products and services, write

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

blogs and interview your staff. All of these aspects will make you more visible not only to your current patient base, but everyone that they are connected to as well. Once you have attracted the attention of the patients, it is up to you and your staff to begin building the relationships that will make or break your business. Aside from the obvious benefits of social media, you should also consider fostering a personal connection with patients the minute they enter your practice. According to an article in Psychology Today magazine titled “The Once-Over,” it takes a mere three seconds for people to draw a conclusion about a new acquaintance. After that initial exposure, your staff will be the face and voice of your business. They should be trained in a variety of ways to best assist your patients, ranging from giving directions to your location over the phone, to what to do in the event of a complication arising from a recent treatment. In order to forge and retain positive relationships, service must be consistent, meeting or exceeding expectations with each and every patient. Once a patient has decided that they want to take the next step by selecting and utilizing your services for a specific treatment or product, your staff must not only make them feel valued, but the patient must feel there is value in the service for which they are paying. Your patients must value you as a professioncontinues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 77

business

al, as well as the products and services you offer, if they are going to continue a business relationship. In the patient’s mind, they must feel that they are receiving what they expected. Ideally, they should feel they are receiving results greater than what they expected from your services in exchange for the time and money they are investing. Always remember that everyone is put off by a sales pitch. Patients are seeking advice from you as the professional, and advice does not equate to shoving a ton of products and services at them the minute they walk into the consultation room. Long-standing patient relationships are built on trust. Trust builds loyalty, trust and loyalty result in compliance, and compliance brings consistent patient outcomes. It’s true that sales must be made in order to maintain your business income, but sales based on education are a benefit to the patient as well as the clinician. If you are just selling products to turn a profit, the relationship is lost. It is important that the clinician is skilled at answering patients’ questions. “Why do I have this condition?” “Why do I need this product/these ingredients?” “Why will it take more than one treatment to see results?” “How are your products better than the ones I am now using at home?”

This information must be communicated in a way that is easy to understand. Realistic patient expectations must be discussed during the first consultation. Make sure your staff is equipped with tools that will create visual experiences for the patient to fully understand the answers to these questions. Before and after photos are one of the best tools to show patients different treatment protocols, and the duration of time it typically takes to achieve the desired results. Other visual aids, such as pictures of specific skin conditions and the action mechanisms of the ingredients used to treat these conditions are helpful as well. Science and technology in the skin health industry are rapidly changing, and your staff’s knowledge must be kept up to date on the latest trends and information through continuing education. Proper education enables your staff to help patients sift through the hype and false information that is being circulated. Again, this builds the trust that is vital to maintaining the relationship. The patient must also be made to feel that they are actively participating in the improvement of their condition. This is achieved when the clinician fosters a feeling of “teamwork” with the patient, which can be done by providing them with certain responsibilities—such as using an SPF product and maintaining a recommended

Richard Linder is CEO of PCA SKIN®. Previously he held executive positions at Greenwich Street Partners, the St. Louis Economic Development Council and KPMG in Zurich, Switzerland. At Harvard Bus­ iness School Mr. Linder led a study on baby boomers, which focused on companies that solve health-related issues. He serves on the board of directors for the National Holistic Institute.

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Sales based on education are a benefit to the patient as well as the clinician. If you are just selling products to turn a profit, the relationship is lost.

regime, for example—just as the clinician is responsible for the treatments that take place within the office. It is vital to never make promises. If you are unable to deliver on a promise you made to a patient in order to make a sale, they will feel devalued, cheated and angry. Any negative feelings your patient feels when they leave are sure to be communicated to anyone willing to listen. While social media networks can be great resources in building your business, they can also work against you, especially when used by an angry patient. Your patients place more value to the end of their experience than the beginning. It is the final result that they will equate with the value of their investment. The results are reliant upon the quality of your products and services, and your staff’s ability to use those products and services. Most importantly, realistic expectations must be set for the patient from the start if they are going to be satisfied with the end result. By getting the message out to the right people with the use of social media, putting stock into the relationships you create with every individual patient you treat and following through with treatment plans that lead to positive results, you produce long-lasting, valuable relationships that can serve the growth of your practice over time. n

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W H AT’S THE FIRST THING YOU DO WHEN you pick up almost any product? Most likely, you smell it. What’s the next thing you do? You respond with emotion and feeling. This second part is often done unconsciously, and prior to any attempt to identify the odor. Your like, dislike or indifference to a smell is part of your emotional memory response, which is guided by a stored olfactory memory and the feeling, good or bad, that relates to the fragrance. A positive emotional memory is the powerful connection you want to create with your guests using scent. This is the art of fragrance branding, a scientifically proven system to increase sales and build your business.

BY JIMM HARRISON

The olfactory system link to emotions and memory To understand the basic function of our olfactory system, we can start by looking at chemotaxis, the first sense organ developed in early life forms. Chemotaxis is the sensory response of moving toward (attraction) or away from (aversion) a chemical stimulus. This describes the function of the sense of smell. Chemical compounds attach to olfactory nerve endings, triggering an impulse through the olfactory bulb to the limbic center of the brain. When molecules from delicious food, a pine forest or a seductive fragrance attach to nerve endings, our first response is that of attraction and the desire to move toward the positive odor. The opposite is a motivation to

move away from smells like poison, rotten food and bad hygiene. Our attraction or aversion to the chemical odor compounds in our environment is immediate, and is followed by a thought process and identification of the odor. The first step in the smell transmission to the limbic system is the amygdala and hippocampus, the emotional and memory centers. Every memory and emotion has a scent associated with it. You recognize this when a fragrance immediately creates a memory recall that is extremely vivid. What you may not recognize is the emotion that is triggered, along with the odor memory. We can sense this connection between emotion and odor when we feel uplifted by the smell of citrus, warmed over by the smell of vanilla or left uneasy by the odor of a hospital. It is this persuasive emotional connection that is the basis for the science of smell technology and fragrance branding.

Fragrance branding in retail stores, consumer products and more The scientific study of smell, named “aromacology” by the Olfactory Research Fund (now the Sense of Smell Institute), provides research on the effects of all odors and their ability to provoke emotional and behavioral outcomes. Aromacology is the science behind a study reported in the Journal of Marketing (Spangenberg, Crowley and Henderson, 1996), using pleasant scents in a retail environment with these findings:

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fragrance

BRANDING

POWERFUL EMOTIONAL CONNECTION CREATES GUEST LOYALTY

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• Customers perceived the scented stores to be of higher quality. • Scent created a heightened consumer awareness to specific products. • Scent made the time spent examining merchandise and waiting in line seem shorter. • Scent improved customers’ intentions to revisit the store and make purchases. Several studies have been conducted that demonstrate fragrance’s influence over the spending and buying habits of consumers. In one of many studies conducted by Alan Hirsch, Ph.D., there was an 84 percent increase in consumers’ willingness to purchase a pair of Nike shoes when in a scented room as opposed to an odor free room, as well as a willingness to pay $10.33 more for the same pair of shoes. Several casinos that began using environmental fragrancing following Dr. Hirsch’s research have seen a 45.11 percent increase in the amount of money spent on slot machines when odor was diffused. Nowadays, you can walk by almost any store in a mall and sniff out their attempt to entice you using environmental fragrancing. Scent has long been a marketing tool to sell consumer goods such as detergents, house cleaners and personal care items. Many fragrances have become well branded and easily identifiable by a large consumer population. Lots of

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

money and time is devoted to research in the business of fragrancing consumer products. Fragrance designers have the artistic skill to create fragrances that appeal to a majority of their target consumers and create the emotional perception-bonding desired of the brand.

The fragrance challenge Fragrance designers are truly challenged because everyone has a different preference of good and bad odors. The reason for these varying preferences among individuals is that we each have independent emotional settings in which an odor was first experienced. If your first exposure to lavender was during a fearful situation, lavender is likely to be an unpleasant fragrance for you. It’s not that lavender doesn’t smell good—it just doesn’t feel good in this case! On the other hand, most of us respond positively to citrus smells because they relate to happy childhood memories, filled with candies, juices and sherbets. How we respond also depends on other forms of learned conditioning, including societal and familial factors. In the extreme, some fragrances can trigger a negative emotional memory that results in a physical response, such as a rash or a headache. This is unpredictable and can be seen in many fragrance sensitive individuals, though it is uncommon that the emotional reaction becomes strongly physical. Fragrance is also a trigger for continues

FRAGRANCE USED IN SPA WAIT AREAS HAS NOT ONLY REDUCED WAIT TIME ANXIETY, BUT ALSO CREATED A DEMAND FOR TAKE-HOME SIGNATURE ROOM SPRAYS.

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business|fragrance branding

Your fragrance branded business Spas, beauty and natural wellness businesses have a distinctive fragrance, though not all similar, that is easily recognized as “spa-like.” Odors are determined by the current assortment of products used. You can fragrance-brand your business by developing a scent strategy that distinctly identifies with you, and is carried away in the noses and memories of your guests.

TREATMENT AND RETAIL PRODUCTS CAN BE PRIVATE LABELED WITH YOUR CUSTOM ENVIRONMENTAL FRAGRANCE, OR THOSE THAT HARMONIZE WITH THE OVERALL SCENT THEME. You can decide what level you want to take this. Your main areas of opportunity are your retail/lounge/wait areas; your treatment products and menu; and your private label or customized retail products. Your entryway, wait and retail areas can be scented using decorative table or wall diffusers. Citron Arbel, vice president of a scent delivery and aroma branding company, says the fragrance used in spa wait areas has not only reduced wait time anxiety, but also created a demand for take-home signature room sprays, demonstrating the connection between retail and environment that can be achieved with branded scenting. Treatment and retail products can be private labeled with your custom environmental fragrance, or those that harmonize with the overall scent theme. If scenting your treatment rooms, do so only if the treatment product fragrances are harmonious with the environmental fragrance.

Customized and signature fragrances The process begins by selecting a signature fragrance that best represents your brand and your demographic. This fragrance can be customized by a fragrance designer or purchased from a selection offered through fragrance houses, private label manufacturers or environmental fragrancing companies. You have a choice between (or a combination of) synthetic fragrances, natural compounds or essential oils, which

is in part determined by how you want to represent your business. Synthetic is the most common choice, due to its lower cost. Besides the obvious difference in scent, essential oils offer an added therapeutic benefit, including the disinfecting action. Both synthetic and natural fragrances have demonstrated mood enhancing effects. Fragrance branding spas, such as EAU Spa in the Ritz Carlton in Palm Beach, FL and mySpa in Miami, FL estimates a $100 per month environmental room fragrance expense. Personally, I customize high-end essential oil scents that begin at a use rate of $150+ per month. Scent costs can be much lower than this, as determined by square footage, diffusing method and the amount of time that the fragrancing is turned on. These costs do not include a fee for an exclusive signature scent design, which ranges between no fee at all to a fee of up to $10,000, dependent on several factors, including scent complexity and the designer.

Menu and retail Your main objective for retail and menu items is to purchase unique products, such as private label, with your chosen or customized scent. It’s possible to have a variety of fragrances in your line, with the intention of scent unity for brand distinction. Design your menu to include treatments using all or a majority of your fragrance branded products. The product odor will permeate your business, as all treatment products do, and provide an environmental signature. Your retail offerings should mimic your back bar, providing the take-home private label fragrance. Home use of products is the emotional memory trigger that keeps that positive connection between you and your guests. It is especially ideal to retail a room or linen spray scented with your environmental or branded fragrance.

The bond that ties When using fragrance branding, you are creating an emotional bond between your guests and your business. This can be a powerful connection that creates client loyalty and referrals, an increase in service dollars and higher retail sales. Some spas and wellness centers also report stronger unity and better health among employees. Fragrance branding is a bond that ties, and makes business scents. n

Jimm Harrison is an author, educator and consultant on essential oils and holistic health with more than 25 years of experience in the beauty industry. He has developed programs, workshops and aromatherapy certificate courses for esthetics, medi-spa and nutritional skin care. Harrison shares how to create the Essential Oil Natural Health and Medicine Kit at www.jimmharrison.com.

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people suffering from post-traumatic stress disorder. The upside to that is that under professional guidance, scent branding can be a remedy for PTSD and other forms of anxiety.

business

photo: Robert Kneschke/Shutterstock.com

SPLASH RETAIL HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU CONSIDered taking on a new product line—only to find out that you can’t? You may be wondering how that can be. The fact of the matter is that changing an entire product line is quite a feat. You may have contracts with a supplier in the form of purchase order commitments, upwards of $4,000 of current inventory, over 150 stock keeping units (SKUs) that you are finally beginning to understand, and absolutely no time to take on such an overwhelming project. Just as quickly as your enthusiasm for a new product or line is born, your logic points out that it is just too large of a project to take on right now. You rationalize that you will consider the transition again when things let up a bit, business gets stronger, etc. In the end, year after year, you end up with what you have—such is life. Studies have shown that it is human nature to stick to what we are doing now—regardless of how unsuccessful that November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

AGILITY, FLEXIBILITY AND INDIVIDUALITY

may be, rather than go through all of the work of making a real change, as real change represents risk. The question that I pose to you now is this: What is riskier, consistent failure and mediocrity … or a new opportunity to succeed?

A new culture Experts have studied, observed and written about the massive culture changes that have evolved over the last decades, and have come into full blossom during our most recent economy shift. The study of this new culture is quite broad, however. In short, it suggests that we as a culture require more agility, flexibility, and in turn more individuality. This concept is applicable to the way a business is run, how it interacts with its team and how it selects its vendors and suppliers. Hence, it also assesses how the business then brings this new culture to its customers. continues

IF OPTIONS ARE NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE CONSUMER IN OUR BUSINESS, THOSE CONSUMERS WILL FIND THE OPTIONS ELSEWHERE.

BY DAVID SUZUKI

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business|splash retail

How does this new culture translate to our business in the world of skin care? Today’s consumer requires more selection—and more freedom to select. This does not mean having half a dozen brands, however it does mean having at least a few interesting items to choose from, ranging from accent products to your primary brand(s). The reality of the matter is that if you look inside any one of our skin care drawers at home, there is not one of us that maintains just

to maintain complete consistency and success by making sure the available selections make sense, based on their core product and purpose. Strategically, they have fanned out with carefully selected non-coffee products that are now taking their sales numbers to a completely new level. Who would have ever thought that coffee could be reinvented at this stage in the game? Who would have thought that Starbucks could make nearly as much money from noncoffee products as they do from their original coffee products?

New culture vendors

one brand. While we know that this is the polar opposite of what every skin care manufacturer suggests, it is also the reality of life. Today’s consumer also requires the freedom to create their own form of individuality. Starbucks has demonstrated this stronger than any other company I have ever seen, in that they have created a brilliant form of “focused options” that have allowed every coffee lover to come up with their very own unique drink. At the same time, they have been able

Splash products “Splash” products are accent products that can be used either with other products or on their own. Well-designed splash products can be marketed and merchandized by themselves; they look great on the shelf independent of a family of products. They are complete in concept, have

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photo: DK. Samco/Shutterstock.com

“Splash” products are accent products that can be used either with other products or on their own. Well-designed splash products can be marketed and merchandized by themselves; they look great on the shelf independent of a family of products.

Do you remember a time—not too long ago— when there was a minimum “buy in” required in order to “qualify” to be a retailer of a product line, combined with an intense and overreaching contract? I also seem to remember other requirements about retail areas, merchandising and even the treatment room! Manufacturers believed that if there was not enough retail merchandise on the shelves, the retail area would not have enough impact—and the business would not really have a vested interest in selling the product. If there was not a large enough retail area, then appropriate merchandizing would not be possible, adversely affecting sales. If the business carried more than one brand, then this concept would take sales from it. And the list goes on. The fact of the matter is that these are all valid points, and each of them can be true to a certain extent. However, these points can only be made in the form of suggestions to businesses of today’s new culture. In short, today’s business owners simply will not tolerate a skin care manufacturer telling them what to do and how to run their business. That kind of rigid, forced control squashes creativity and individuality for the business, and limits the options available to their consumers. Remember our skin care drawer at home. If options are not available for the consumer in our business, those consumers will find the options elsewhere.

business|splash retail

their own individual brochure, are efficacious, scientifically proven and have a good look and an attainable “sweet spot” price. Because of the nature of splash products, your investment can be what it needs to be for the size of your company and the budget you have to work with. Work with forward thinking vendors that have NO minimum “buy ins” or crazy, rigid old school requirements and contracts. Indeed, suggestions and tips for selling and marketing the brand are welcome and expected, as are large volume purchasing incentives. At the same time, we want the freedom to implement new products in our business the way we see fit! After all, it is our business, right?

Meeting demand Most product lines have an enormity of SKUs, with an average of 100 and some exceeding 200. Statistically, about 20 percent of the SKUs are good movers, while the rest collect dust. There are a wide variety of reasons that some sell and others don’t. It could be the location on the shelf, the signage and marketing (or lack thereof), what product the skin therapist uses during the service or any number of other factors. More than anything, it has to do with what your team likes and uses themselves, and what they are excited about. That being said, your team members should be active participants in deciding what to bring into the business, as this is what they will be working with and selling—rather than trying to force them to sell something that they don’t like or believe in. Your vendors should be happy to supply you with a few samples for all of your team to try and evaluate. Skin therapists often have a tough time selling as it is. But if they do not even believe in what they are trying to sell, it’s a lost cause!

A little bit, all the time Above and beyond the flexible financial commitment that splash products represent, they are also easy to learn about, market and understand. Remember that we are talking about two to four products that you are generally moving in at a time, not 150! This gives us plenty of time to test, use, study and be educated about these products by our partners (suppliers). It allows us to focus on a small group of fabulous new product(s), as opposed to a huge, overwhelming new line! November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Above and beyond the flexible financial commitment that splash products represent, they are also easy to learn about, market and understand. Remember that we are talking about two to four products that you are generally moving in at a time, not 150! Having this kind of focus, knowledge and team enthusiasm about new splash products can be incredibly powerful—to the extent that your splash products will likely outsell your historical baseline products. As this occurs, the wheels begin to turn and the light bulbs illuminate. Maybe this is the way forward to diversifying your business, increasing customer satisfaction, team enthusiasm and explosive sales. Maybe it even prepares your vehicle for a necessary change.

Opportunity If your current retail sales are through the roof and consistently exceed 50 percent of your service sales, I would not recommend changing anything. If you find yourself with the other 99 percent of us, then consider the opportunity that well manufactured and supported splash products can bring to your business. Remember to look for and work with vendors who understand and function within the parameters of the new culture guidelines. No minimum purchases, no imposing requirements, complete education and marketing support, and creative pricing incentives that celebrate your outstanding sales efforts! Find partners who want to work with you, respect your business and champion your success and individuality! n David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. E-mail him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 85

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business

holiday CHAOS

KEEPING FOCUSED AND

GROUNDED DURING THIS SEASON

photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com

“2013 CRAZY COOL SPA TRENDS!” “Now is the time to start planning for next year’s cutting-edge spa treatments!” Whoa ... hold up! This sounds like a great article topic, but that headline was simply written to capture your attention. One of the biggest challenges we face this time of year is keeping ourselves and our staff motivated and focused. As we all know, the holidays are almost here once again, and we all have to work harder and smarter to rev up holiday sales numbers. With so many things going on to prepare for the holidays, how do we keep our eyes on the prize? How do we keep our colleagues laser focused as we strive to end the year on a high note? With the inevitable chaos of a busy holiday season, we must slow down for a minute and plan how to keep everyone on the same page. One of the best ways to do this is to make sure you have the “buy in” from your team. Make sure to gain the input of your spa leaders as you work with them to keep the team focused on finishing strong. It is important to gain agreement from the team on the sales goals for the holiday retail rush. Make sure to post your sales goals where everyone can see them and track your progress daily. A morning meet up with your team to go over the plan for the day lets them know you are still looking at everyone’s overall performance. Be creative and have some stellar sales incentives and prizes for top performers. This is a great time of year to reach out to your vendors to ask for gift cards, baskets and product line favorites that can be used to motivate your team. Keep your own budget in check while working with vendors to provide

some awesome incentives. Remember that your vendor partners have sales numbers to hit as well—what a great time to connect with them and create sales contests that provide a win-win for everyone! Also, work with your leadership team to define strong schedules to keep your therapists on task. Make sure you have plenty of staff on hand during your peak times, and always have well trained retail experts available to take care of anyone that happens to wander into your retail boutique. One way to do this is to extend lunch breaks by 30 minutes or even an hour; this allows people to catch up on holiday shopping and chores. When given this extra time, you can expect more staff to return from lunch on time. Also, giving folks a little extra time shows them that you are really invested in them, which results in more positive attitudes. Keeping morale up is very important at this time of year! Be sure to institute a “check it at the door” mentality for your team. With all the distractions happening around them, tell your team to leave all that holiday stress and anxiety at the door. While they may be thinking about the next holiday gift that has to be bought, it is most important to remember the reason we all do what we do—to be the good stewards of the spa industry, who focus on providing our clients with a memorable and beneficial wellness experience. Upon entering the threshold of the spa, it is time to focus on the client. Perhaps the best advice for a frenzied holiday season is indeed this very thing—focusing on the client. With a renewed sense of client focontinues

BY TEDDY LESTER



www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 87

business|holiday chaos cus, you will be pleasantly surprised by the sales numbers that follow. Be aware of the number of clients in your spa, and make sure each one is personally greeted and approached. Remember that this time of year is busy and stressful for everyone, so make sure you do not make any of your clients feel rushed or disregarded. The spa is a place of refuge, and at this time of year when life is especially busy and hectic, we should

work to make the client’s time at the spa all about them. Work with your team to place emphasis on the customer experience during the holidays. In addition to incentives for achieving sales goals, put in a rewards program for associates that provide customer happiness and glowing reviews. Encourage customers to provide feedback about their experience, letting them know that their favorite therapist will be up for some

great prize to be given away right before the holiday—even better, let the clients know they will be eligible to win that same prize. These comments will not only keep your therapists motivated and engaged, they will provide your spa with some great reviews to use in your marketing efforts. With a holiday rush that always seems to pull us in multiple directions, instruct your team to reach out to those clients that visit your business year round. You know who I’m talking about. They are the customers who touch your life in so many different ways, and make us all better spa operators. The ladies and gentlemen that are on a first name basis with your team, the ones that have been in your spa for those special moments in their lives, from a healing experience to a birthday to a girls night out. During the busiest time of the year, leave the chaos behind and direct your attention to the customers who make this such a wonderful, relationship driven industry—you and your team will have an unmatched, ever clear focus that will result in your best sales numbers ever ... and memories that are priceless. Best wishes for a grounded and focused holiday season! Here’s hoping for a season where the chaos is a little less and the holiday spa experience is more focused than ever before! n Teddy Lester is the vice president of brands and education for Universal Companies. He understands the importance of building long lasting relationships with clients, and is dedicated to helping the sales team at Universal Companies provide excellent customer service. Lester is also committed to working with Universal Companies’ education team to develop a best-in-class educational outreach program for customers. He can be reached at teddyl@universalcompanies.com.

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PART 2: AS AN ENTREPRENEUR

PART 1 OF THIS ARTICLE SERIES, PRINTED IN LAST month’s edition, outlined the characteristics needed to prosper in the corporate market. This month, we are focusing on the entrepreneur. All spa managers need a core set of skills. However there are subtle differences in the skill sets needed to succeed as a manager in a day spa or hotel/resort spa. Following are some valuable tips from successful day spa owners who are “in the trenches.”

Calibrate your expectations

photo: RTimages/Shutterstock.com

“The daily operational realities of operating a spa can be grim,” says Peggy Wynne Borgman, principal of Preston Wynne Spa and Wynne Business Consulting & Education. Borgman regu-

larly consults with potential spa owners who have unrealistic expectations. “I see starry-eyed start-ups who want to build a $5,000 square foot spa for $250,000.”

Find your niche Potential spa owners must find a niche that satisfies the target clientele and still turns a profit. “Entrepreneurs must think out of the box,” advises Laura Fennama, principal of Integrated Spa Consulting and cofounder of BLOOM™ Training Solutions. “Successful day spas of the future will have a robust, steady flow of clients if they embrace advanced esthetics, nutrition/diet services and/or medical programs. People will pay for things they can measure.” continues

Day spa manager

Hotel/Resort spa manager

Often is an owner/entrepreneur

Must operate within a corporate environment

Has no support network

Works within an extensive corporate support structure

Is responsible for ALL aspects of the spa business

Has some business support from the hotel/resort

Is directly responsible for client acquisition

Has less marketing responsibility—clients are from the hotel

Is responsible for spa’s success or failure

Spa will not close if the manager does a poor job

Source: SRI/GSWS

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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BY NANCY GRIFFIN

PATH GROWING YOUR CAREER

“HAVING A CLEARLY DEFINED GAME PLAN IS ESSENTIAL. FUZZY TARGETS DON’T GET HIT,” SAYS STALLINGS. IN AN INDUSTRY WHERE DOUBLE DIGIT PROFIT IS RARE, MANY OWNERS HAVE TO ADJUST THE NUMBERS TO STAY AFLOAT. Know your numbers Experts recommend starting with a business plan. “Having a clearly defined game plan is essential. Fuzzy targets don’t get hit,” says Stallings. In an

industry where double digit profit is rare, many owners have to adjust the numbers to stay afloat. “We recently had to modify our compensation plan, said Stallings. “It was one of the hardest

things we had to do, but we guaranteed an income for our spa family and made it through the tough times.”

Get educated A passion for learning is a must. Joining associations, attending conferences and reading trade publications are great places to begin your education. Over the last decade, new degree and continuing education programs have been developed. There are certification programs such as the UC Irvine Spa & Hospitality Management Program, and the ISPA/ALHEI CSS program.

Network locally Peggy Wynne Borgman founded the Northern California Spa Directors Lead­ ership Roundtable. “I wanted insight into how spas in my region were faring,” says Borgman. In its fourth year, the Leadership Roundtable consists of 10-12 spa directors and owners from different types of spas. “Each meeting we begin by sharing revenues and profitability so we can gauge how we are doing, vis-à-vis our peers. It is an effective way to get great ideas in a short amount of time.”

DAY SPA OWNER PROFILES Angela Cortright Day spas: Spa Gregories, Newport Beach, Rancho Santa Margarita and Del Mar, CA Years in business: 14 years. Start in the industry: I had been in the high tech industry for 22 years. I had started a company and taken it public, which was the most stressful experience of CORTRIGHT my life. During that time, I discovered bodywork as a method to manage my stress, and was amazed at how effective it was. After the IPO and merging with another company, Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #271 on reader service card

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business|growing your career path

my husband and I considered the idea of starting a spa to help other stressed out people enjoy the benefits that our industry offers. That was in 1998; we hit the market window just right. Biggest challenges: Recently, the economy. Advice for future day spa owners: Be extremely diligent in your planning. Engage experts if this is your first business venture. Have plenty of reserve capital for unforeseen expenses. It’s a more competitive market these days, so what is your competitive advantage? Reach out to others in the industry, there are so many willing to help. Read everything you can get your hands on, go to industry conferences.

Marilyn Ihloff Day spa: Ihloff Salon & Day Spa, Tulsa, OK Years in business: 32 years in the salon industry; 22 years in the spa industry. Start in the industry: As with many salons in the late 1980s, we had pretIHLOFF ty much all of the pieces, but they weren’t “bundled.” Also, because we are in a smaller city in the center of the country, there were no day spas here for competition. The first sale was to a loyal guest who asked if we sold “day spa gift certificates.” I said yes, and went to the office supply store and bought generic ones. Those first few years were spent just keeping up with demand for this great new gifting idea—a very pleasant memory! Biggest challenges: Finding and retaining staff, the economy, and the new normal routine of discounting. Advice for future day spa owners: Know the business inside and out, and be very careful about cash flow. Working deeply in the numbers is a huge piece of running a spa today. Read and attend business seminars—both in and out of our industry.

Kaffee Keldie Day spa: Kaffee’s Garden Spa, West Palm Beach, FL Years in business: 15 years. Start in the industry: After graduating from Golden West College in Huntington Beach, CA, I joined the staff at Kerstin Florian’s salon in Laguna KELDIE Beach. After that I became a facial treatment specialist for Elizabeth Arden. I always had an entrepreneurial personality, and wanted to use the products and treatments I believed in. I wanted to be in charge. Biggest challenges: Finding like-minded people and helping them grow into loyal, long-term partners. Over the years I have formed a core group of like-minded, skilled and talented professionals; and we have been able to stick together November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

all these years. The core group makes up a solid part of the facility, and then I have people who come and go. These solid partnerships helped me build my business. Advice for up-and-comers: With enough passion and commitment, anything is possible. But you must be honest about what you want to achieve. Nothing happens overnight. The day spa industry is not glamorous—there’s a whole lot of work and patience involved. Build your reputation at an established facility before you start your own venture.

Denise Dubois Day spa: Complexions Spa for Beauty & Wellness, Albany, NY Years in business: 25 years. Start in the industry: I started in the spa industry back in 1984, when I was pursuing my dreams of becoming a makeup artist. I went to school in New DUBOIS York City and discovered that I enjoyed the science of skin care even more than makeup. After graduating from the Catherine Hinds Institute of Esthetics in Newton, MA, I went on to work in a salon to obtain some experience. I opened Complexions Professional Skin Care in 1987. We expanded several times and now occupy a 8,500 square foot space. The premier LEED Gold certified facility encompasses all aspects of the salon, wellness and medical spa. Biggest challenges: Achieving LEED certification. I didn’t have a huge budget to hire a team of engineers and architects to accomplish all that is involved in such a process. My family and I put together a team that included my brother, my father, my mother, my sister-in-law and my children to do much of the research needed to accomplish this project. Advice for up-and-comers: Have a vision of where you see yourself, set goals and don’t sway from them. It always amazes me that when you set goals, it is really easy to reach them if you stay the course! n

Nancy Griffin has been committed to spa education and marketing for 20 years, starting with her master’s degree in hospitality and management from Cornell University. She founded SpaTrade, SpaExec and Contento Marketing Group, and recently launched Bloom™, Effective Training Solutions for Spas and Salons. Griffin is an advisory board member of University of California, Irvine’s Spa and Hospitality Management program, and a board member of the Advanced Spa Therapies Education Certification Council. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 91

THINKING TO A HIGHER ORDER

BY LEON ALEXANDER, PH.D. EDUCATION IS A COMPANION THAT NO MISFORTUNE can suppress, no crime can destroy and no enemy can alienate. It chastens vice, guides virtue and lends genius to innovation in business. In the spa industry, excellent technical education and good business education are essential for spa owners. If we aspire to elevate the spa industry to compete with serious retailers, marketers and service providers outside of the field, we need to emulate their best proven practices. What is required is a radical approach to education, taken at two levels. We need to offer business education to all service providers on sales, finance, marketing and retailing. This will elevate their understanding of how a spa operates, and benefits both service providers and spa owners. Equally, we need to look at adding a lateral creative thinking element to a spa owner’s education. We can simply call it this: “Thinking to a Higher Order.”

Thinking to a higher order “Higher order” thinking requires us to analyze information and ideas in ways that transform their meanings and implications. This transformation occurs when we combine facts and ideas in order to synthesize, generalize, explain, hypothesize or arrive at some conclusion or interpretation. Manipulating information and ideas through these processes allows us to solve problems and discover new meanings and understandings. When we engage in the construction of knowledge, an element of uncertainty is introduced into the instructional process, and makes instructional outcomes unpredictable.

As a child, I remember being shocked when I learned that Walt Disney was a person. In my mind, Disney was a mysterious entity, symbolized by the magical castle that appeared at the start of every Disney film. A cross between a fairyland and a faceless corporation. So it was hard to get my head around the idea that all of those Disney films were the brainchild of one man—not to mention the theme parks! How could one single person be responsible for all of that? Later on, I discovered that the truth was even stranger. There wasn’t just one Walt Disney ... there were three. Creativity as a total process involves the coordination of three sub processes: dreamer, realist and critic. • The dreamer is the visionary who dreams up ideas for business ventures. • The realist is the pragmatic producer who makes things happen. • The critic is the eagle-eyed evaluator who refines what the dreamer and realist produce. Page 92 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

photo: Sarunyu Foto/Shutterstock.com

Creative thinking

business

Each of these three sub-processes are essential in the formation of true creativity. A dreamer without a realist cannot turn ideas into tangible expressions. A critic and a dreamer without a realist just become stuck in perpetual conflict. The dreamer and the realist might create things together, but fail to achieve a high degree of quality without a critic. The critic helps to evaluate and refine the products of creativity. Creative thinking is also “double-minded” thinking that “operates on more than one plane.” It can be described as a “transitory state.” As a result of this transitory state, “the balance of both emotion and thought is disturbed.” Using logic to derive new consequences amounts to little more than permutations of existing concepts; we can perhaps generate new links between concepts, but not conceptual novelty. Here’s how thinking to a higher order works. If I hand you a brick and ask you how many uses you can think of for it, you will probably come up with a dozen or so—all of them functional. If, however, I asked you specifically to think of 40 ways you can use it, I’m likely to get a whole different kind of list. After exhausting the obvious uses, you’ll find yourself straining to think of other uses for it that you had not thought of. In response to the first question, you actually hit on something truly original. It is there, at that uncomfortable point when you think you have exhausted all practical uses for the brick, where true creativity lives. This is where you start to find new connections between the object at hand and the world around you. Essentially, you start thinking beyond the obvious solutions. Another example is to look at the “x” symbol, and ask what universal word could define it. Logic says it is the letter “x,” and this is correct. Now ask yourself to identify six other possible explanations. Now you are tapping into higher order, lateral thinking mode. The x symbol could represent any of the following: times, multiply, wrong, kiss, cross or the number 10 in Roman numerals. Our brain has now moved out of logic mode and into creativity mode. Creativity can be defined as the process by which the mind finds formerly unrecognized relationships between two entities or ideas. It allows us to see something in a different way. It involves taking something obvious and making it interesting. Knowing how our mind’s creativity works is the reason that few advertising creatives settle on the first idea (or handful of ideas) they find. The thinking being that if it was that obvious to them, it must be obvious to everyone—and therefore there’s nothing new or exciting about it. Truly creative solutions are a bit unnerving, not because they are provocative or irrelevant, but because you have never seen anything quite like them, and so your mind doesn’t know how to evaluate them. November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Higher order thinking is a level of thinking that goes beyond memorizing facts or telling someone something the exact same way it was told to you. It is called rote memory when a person memorizes and gives the information back without having to think about it. The reason is because it is much like a robot; it does what it’s programmed to do, but it does not think for itself. Higher order thinking takes thinking to higher levels, then restates the facts. This type of thinking requires that we do something with the facts. We must understand them, infer from them, connect them to other facts and concepts, categorize them, manipulate them, put them together in new or novel ways and then apply them as we seek new solutions to new problems.

Problem solving Not a day goes by in anybody’s life when they don’t have to solve problems. From the moment a person gets up in the morning and considers what to eat for breakfast, he is solving problems. Being creative, considering several strategies and trying them out as a means to reaching the solution is part of being a good problem solver. It is important in problem solving to remember that mistakes are learning opportunities. One always learns from something that doesn’t work. In scientific research, the goal is to prove a theory wrong as often as it is to prove a theory right. Thomas Edison was once asked how he kept from getting discouraged before he perfected his idea of the light bulb, as he was making so many mistakes during the process. He had tried more than 2,000 ways before he found one that worked. Edison responded that he had not made 2,000 mistakes, but rather that he had over 2,000 learning experiences that moved him closer to the answer.

The “idea” generation Coming up with original ideas is very important in higher order thinking. Ideas that originate from one’s own thoughts rather than copied from someone else are original ideas. But what are ideas—and where do they come from? Insights. Some ideas are born from insight—a spontaneous cohesion of several thoughts. An insight is like a light bulb coming on in a person’s head. Insights are great thoughts that help a person see or understand something, quite often something they have been unable to figure out up to this point.

Critical thinking Another way of forming ideas is through critical thinking. This involves using ones own knowledge or point of view to decide what is right or wrong about someone else’s ideas. This is sometimes called “having a mind of one’s own,” meaning continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 93

business|thinking to a higher order

that the individual does not simply believe or accept everything that someone else says or writes.

Creativity Creativity can be measured by its fluency, flexibility, originality and elaboration. The most creative minds are those for whom creative thought is fluid. The most creative thinkers are also flexible within their creating—they are willing and able to manipulate their thinking to improve upon that which they create. Creative thinkers are able to elaborate on their creation, largely because it is their own creation, and not one that has been borrowed. When creative thinkers are at the peak of their creative process, they may enter a state of concentration so focused that they are completely absorbed in the activity at hand. At this point, they are performing at the optimum level of their abilities. Creativity is usually thought of as divergent thinking— the ability to spin off one’s thinking in many directions. But creative thinking is also convergent, for when someone has created something, his thinking may converge only on ideas and information that pertain to that particular invention. Inventors like Thomas Edison took the information they had and regrouped it until something new happened. Creative thinking has novelty, flexibility and originality.

Conclusion There are not many industries that are as hands-on as the beauty industry. Beauty professionals help to alleviate stress and provide a relaxing environment. The balance between nurture and business is always essential for a spa to flourish and be perpetually sustainable. In order for our industry to take a giant leap forward, we need to add to that formula by using our creative side in our business. Solutions to the world’s problems will never be found in books. They reside in the minds of creative, inventive people. So it is very important for all spa owners to exercise their creative “muscles,” and to think to a higher order. n Leon Alexander, Ph.D., is the founder and president of Eurisko, a comprehensive design, consulting and distribution source launched in 2006 to serve the salon and spa industry. He established Eurisko with the vision of designing salons and spas from the consumer’s perspective. Dr. Alexander, a doctor of behavioral psychology, is an expert in both retail and salon development.

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HELPING THE COMMUNITY

Massage Envy raised nearly $680,000 during the second annual Healing Hands for Arthritis, intended to benefit the more than 50 million Americans affected by the disease. On September 19, 2012, all of Massage Envy’s locations participated in the event. The company donated $10 from every massage and facial to the Arthritis Foundation. Additionally, exclusive partner Murad donated 10 percent of all product sales at Massage Envy locations during the event. www.MassageEnvy.com www.arthritis.org

PROGRAM FOR PHYSICIANS ZO Skin Health, Inc., is pleased to announce the launch of the ZO® Physician Affiliate and Revenue Sharing Programs, specifically tailored to support a thriving physician practice. The program offers physicians their own virtual store on the ZO Skin Health, Inc. website, where their patients can replenish ZO products after having a consultation with their physician. Physicians receive commission on products sold through their virtual store, the same as if their patients had purchased the products directly from their practice. www.zoskinhealth.com

MOBILE MAKEOVER Boost the effectiveness of your social media marketing with the help of Pressroom West, a division of Language Media Agency launched this year that focuses on mobile marketing. This past spring, Pressroom designed a mobile site for LaserAway, a chain of laser hair removal clinics. The dynamic, targeted site generated 245 new patient consultations for LaserAway in a one month period. www.pressroomwest.com

BIZNEWS

FUNDRAISING EVENT

Little League Baseball teams throughout the Seattle, WA area, are delighted to receive the new Bio-Therapeutic field scoreboards, which the company donated as part of their commitment to sponsoring youth sports. “We have been in need of scoreboards for the West Seattle Little League for years,” says Brian Pare, president of the West Seattle Little. “The community and the kids are all very excited about this generous donation.” www.bio-therapeutic.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE MORE NEWS

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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BIZNEWS

SCHEDULING LEADER

U.S. DEBUT! Perron Rigot Paris, the company that has been developing, manufacturing and distributing high quality depilatory waxing solutions for more than 40 years, is assuming the commercialization of Cirépil and Escential professional depilatory wax and beauty care. Perron Rigot, Inc. has recently opened their new subsidiary office in the Chicago suburb of Des Plaines, IL, and is now the exclusive importer of the brands for the United States, committed to serving the beauty industry through its professional distributors. www.perron-rigot.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

Schedulicity offers an online appointment scheduling solution for estheticians. To date, more than 13 million appointments have been booked through Schedulicity in more than 2,200 cities across the U.S. and Canada, facilitating over $1 billion in appointmentbased commerce, says the company. Schedulicity earned the prestigious DEMOgod Award at DEMO Fall 2011 for having exceptional potential to thrive in the market. It was also honored by Tech Awards Circle 2011 for Best SMB Service, which recognizes small to midsized companies that have created an outstanding technology service. www.schedulicity.com

MANAGE YOUR REVIEWS

REWARDING RECOGNITION PCA SKIN® is honored to be listed on Inc. Magazine’s sixth annual Inc. 500|5000, an exclusive national ranking of the fastest growing private companies. This recognition demonstrates the company’s ongoing dedication to improving lives, reflected in their home office, distribution center, national educators, certified professionals and products that provide the best results possible for PCA SKIN patients. www.pcaskin.com

Shine a light on customer relations with Shortcuts Client Spotlight™ (SMS), the latest innovation from Shortcuts Software, a provider of top level software to salons and spas across the world. This service allows you to measure exactly how clients rate your service. With SMS, you can know whether clients are raving about their latest treatment, hardly mentioning it or criticizing it, both on and offline. The product automatically emails or texts SMS-approved clients to intercept their opinions after they leave the spa, so if there is a problem, the owner can deal with the client offline rather than lose their business or suffer damage to their online reputation. www.shortcuts.net

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Day Spa & organic & wellness Utopia Holistic Healing Center

photo courtesy of Utopia Day Spa & Holistic Helaing Center

By Rita Cook

SITUATED ON A FIVE-ACRE FARM IN Sevierville, TN near Pigeon Forge, Gatlin­ burg and the Smoky Mountains, one would never guess that the 5,000-­­square-­foot structure that now houses the Utopia Day Spa & Healing Center was actually first built as a dairy barn 130 years ago. It was only converted 11 years ago. With a mission statement to facilitate, enhance and expedite the self-discovery, healing and general well-being of the whole individual as well as the community, the spa and healing center’s holistic/wholistic approach takes into account all of the individual’s components, including the physical, mental, emotional, energetic and spiritual. Utopia Day Spa & Holistic Healing Center offers roughly 65 services on its spa and healing menu, as well as thorough training in many disciplines that go beyond the scope of the menu. It started primarily as a holistic healing center before adding the other spa components. Rev. Michael Braswell, a li­censed and registered massage therapist, certified hypnotherapist and holistic practitioner at Utopia, says that the spa swiftly grew into prominence after being introduced. “With the basic lack of exposure, but at the same time rapid growth of the alternative and holistic health care industry, we are on the cutting edge of this area,” Braswell explains. “Where else can you go get a massage, facial, chakra balancing and intuitive counseling at the same location? We also offer training, both individual and group, on most of the holistic healing services we offer.” Braswell explains that the owner of the farm, Linda Brown, came up with Utopia Day Spa & Holistic Healing Center‘s name through spiritual inspiration, and it does

indeed fit well with the tranquil and healing spa setting. The spa’s open entryway is tastefully decorated in a rustic, country style. The interior is constructed primarily of wood. Inside, the positive energy is complimented by soft music, dim lighting and gentle personnel, and there is a distinct feeling of healing even before a treatment begins. “It is said that there is an energy vortex on the property,” Braswell explains. Utopia Day Spa offers two treatment rooms, and can accommodate side-byside couples’ massages, body wraps, facials and a variety of additional services. Overall four massages, facials or body wraps can be done simultaneously; following their services, many clients elect to relax on the deck. The exterior décor also includes a large deck. The structure overlooks a pond, which mirrors the surroundings. The pond is home to frogs and birds, producing natural sounds similar to the music playing throughout, which adds to the relaxing energy of the spa and healing center. Beyond the pond is a hill, where horses can be seen grazing. The Utopia Day Spa & Holistic Healing Center grounds are landscaped with a wide variety of flowerbeds. The Smoky Mountains can be seen in the distance, and Bluff Mountain, a visible area landmark, is close by.

Treatment offerings There are a varied and plentiful array of holistic services available at Utopia Day Spa & Holistic Healing Center. Some of the more popular offerings include hypnotherapy, reiki, reflexology, chakra alignment, spiritual/intuitive counseling and healing, relaxation therapy and

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Couples’ Nature Massage location on the dock

past life regression. The spa manager and assistant manager are both nondenominational ordained ministers, reiki masters, hypnotherapists, reflexologists and intuitive counselors. Each of them holds additional certifications as well. Braswell says that the six spa therapists always endeavor to undersell and overproduce on all of the services, and always strive to use organic products. “Utopia Day Spa & Holistic Healing Center is one of the very few spas that can provide multi-person services at the same time,” he declares. “We are the only one to offer the array of holistic healing services that we do [in the area], and we strive to provide the services to help a person better themselves in mind, body and spirit.” n

Rita Cook is a freelance editor and writer who regularly visits spas around the world. She has published seven books and authored more than 1,500 articles. Cook writes for The Dallas Morning News, Celeb Life, Focus Daily News, Four Seasons Hotel Magazine and Green Source DFW, to name a few. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 97

organic & wellness

BeauTEA

TEA STATIONS AND SPA SERVICES Salon Benjamin, a decadent salon in Beverly Hills that caters to A-listers and the area’s most stylish elite, beautifully incorporates curated art and tea into their environment. Benjamin Mohapi, the salon’s director and a sought after stylist, sees the value in enhancing clients’ experience, and understands how it esthetically enhances the facility. The caliber of his clientele is evidence that he’s doing something right!

It takes an extra few minutes of your employees’ time to serve real, loose leaf tea. But the overall experience for your clients—and therefore their perceived value, makes it completely worthwhile. A tea bag may be easier, but service with a tea bag won’t be talked about outside your walls or lead to a retail sale. By serving and retailing a few of your favorite blends, you increase both your level of sophistication and your sales. When I walk into a salon for a haircut or a Brazilian wax, I don’t want Zen music or calming tea. I want something fun, a little exciting, perhaps even a touch of alcohol if the mood is right. A massage or facial calls for something entirely different. Tea can be paired with the experience you are creating. This opens up a world of creativity for managers and therapists to share. Here is a starting point and a list of basic equipment for having a tea station at your spa. Once you have the basics down, a world of great tea service is at your feet! 1. Stainless steel electric tea kettle. This staple is non-negotiable. Tepid tea is about as exciting as diner coffee with powdered creamer. If you have more than five treatment rooms or hair stations, keep two stainless steel electric tea kettles. continues

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photo: Shutterstock.com

IF YOU HAVE MORE THAN FIVE TREATMENT ROOMS OR HAIR STATIONS, KEEP TWO STAINLESS STEEL ELECTRIC TEA KETTLES.

BY MELISSA PICOLI

IT BREAKS MY HEART TO WALK INTO A gorgeous spa or uber-stylish salon ... and see a poorly executed tea station set up. It is a little bit devastating to be served poor quality tea in a paper cup during a $60 blowout. A cup of tea can be as integral to a beauty experience as the background music, or the ambient scent. It can enhance or cheapen the whole affair. Yet so many salons and spas overlook this sense, and offer tepid water and flimsy tea bags whose contents haven’t been actual plants in too many years to tell. That, to me, is akin to walking into a deliciously described body treatment, only to have the therapist use a tub of generic lotion from the bottom shelf of a local bargain store. This is heart wrenching! An important part of a beauty experience is being enthralled in every sense, being exposed to new products and trends, and having an increased awareness of personal health and beauty rituals. Good tea aligns perfectly with beauty enterprises. A cup of tea can be an exquisite line of demarcation from your client’s harried life to the experience he or she has just walked into at your salon or spa. When done right, that cup divides the two worlds, and allows your client to be completely enveloped into the world of the spa, leaving behind the endless meetings and to-do lists that await them. This is an important distinction, both for the client’s experience and for your business. A soothed client, whose senses have merged with your salon or spa’s environment, is likely to be excited, and thus tell their friends about their experience, purchase some retail products from you and return for more services. Tea service may not be powerful enough to completely alter your client’s experience, and it may not have any effect at all if executed poorly. However, when done well, a properly served cup of amazing tea can enhance every other element of the experience. It heightens the senses, quiets the spirit and supports detoxification, which occurs after a massage.

photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 99

organic & wellness|beau tea 2. Stainless steel tea pot. This makes it easy to steep and serve loose leaf tea. It contains a built-in mesh basket, and keeps tea hot for several hours. 3. Small ceramic mugs. Choose mugs that are small and handle-free to simplify storage and washing. Serving tea in paper cups is simply tacky. Even if you are a corner salon in the middle of the ghetto (which describes my favorite type of place for a pedicure when I am in a new city and need a little entertainment), your beverages should be served in real glassware. Paper cups and beauty treatments do not belong together. If your employ-

in small cups so that your client only takes a few sips prior to the service. Refill them at the end of the service. Use flavors like chamomile, red raspberry leaf, lemongrass and holy basil. Once you have a curated selection of teas and your basic equipment, the preparation and serving process is much easier! Boil water, add a heaping tablespoon of tea to your basket, brew for three to five minutes and serve. Remove the basket and leave it for the following steep (which decreases your cost of production per cup and takes full advantage of tea leaves) or discard and start over. To re-steep, attach the basket, add

MOST SALONS OR SPAS WILL DO FINE WITH 50 OR FEWER, ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE A DISHWASHER. CHECK DISCOUNT RETAILERS IN YOUR AREA, OR WORK WITH A LOCAL CERAMIC ARTIST.

Hair and waxing services For higher energy services, you want your client to leave feeling like they just spent quality time with a favorite friend, and maybe had a laugh or two. Serve something with a touch of spice and a little extra depth. Oolong and Pu-erhs are perfect for this. You may even choose to add a kiss of ginger liqueur to the tea during evening services.

Massage and spa services It is crucial to promote deep relaxation for your clients during massage and spa services. Focus on calming, meditative blends, and serve them

a pinch of fresh tea to already steeped leaves, and steep for five to seven minutes. You can do this up to three times with most high-quality, full leaf teas. Simply increase the steeping time. Set up a tea station where clients can serve themselves, and have your receptionist refill cups during free moments. At the end of the day, discard brewed tea leaves, rinse the pot and leave it ready for the following day. For less than a nickel a cup and a few extra minutes of prep work, the experience you create in your salon or spa becomes something a little more exquisite, precious and profitable. At the end of the day, this is a perfect triad of benefits, all packed into a gorgeous cup of tea. n Melissa Picoli is the founder of BijaBody health+beauty, an esthetician created line of anti-aging body care and beauty tea blends. She has more than a decade of experience in the beauty industry as an esthetician, product developer, speaker, blogger and consultant. When Picoli is not working in the lab or studio, packing boxes or obsessing over fonts, she can be found kayaking on the wild rivers of Montana. For more info, visit www.BijaBody.com.

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photo: Mitrofanova/Shutterstock.com

ees balk at having to wash cups, remind them that their job is to execute an exquisite experience for your guests, and that now includes 15 minutes of washing mugs at the end of the day. I have about 300 small mugs, which I use for demonstrations at shows. Most salons or spas will do fine with 50 or fewer, especially if you have a dishwasher. Check discount retailers in your area, or work with a local ceramic artist. These can be made quickly and inexpensively by most ceramicists. 4. A large thermos (optional). If you want to make a large batch of tea all at once, simply pour several batches into a large, high quality thermos. In selecting your tea blends, it is best to serve a tea-leaf based blend and an herbal tea known as tisane. I recommend sticking with three to four blends to simplify wholesale ordering, retail and the learning curve of each blend’s steeping and serving.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242

organic & wellness

HYDRATING SPA SERVICES DRY WINTER SCALPS AND TRESSES AS THE COLD, DRY WINTER MONTHS ROLL in, your clients are going to be itching for some winter weather spa relief! In the colder seasons, wind and a decrease in environmental humidity coupled with central heating create a lack of moisture in the air. This can lead to dry, chapped skin and even drier scalps and hair! If you want your clients to leave the spa feeling hydrated from head to toe, add a scalp and hair treatment to your spa services this winter. A professional hair spa treatment is fantastic on its own, or it can be a great way to upsell your clients when they come in for their regularly scheduled facial services. If they love how hydrated and youthful they feel after a facial treatment, imagine how grateful they will be when you tell them you can offer the same results for their hair and scalp! 4

BY LYDIA SARFATI

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photo: Trifonov Igor/Shutterstock.com

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organic & wellness|hydrating spa services

When choosing a professional hair treatment, uphold the same standards as you would for skin care treatments in your spa. You want to provide your clients with a true spa experience. For hair and skin services, work with treatments that are freshly mixed before application—no double dipping, no dispensing—perfect every time! Find a hair treatment that comes in onedose packaging, so your client can rest assured that the treatment they receive is just for them. As for ingredients, you really need to look at what you are trying to provide for your client. There are three points of repair for a dry scalp and dry hair. The first—and the most obvious— is a lack of moisture. Just like the skin on our face, sebum production on the head decreases as we age, causing the hair and scalp to become dehydrated and brittle. I truly believe in the virtues of sea and seaweed to hydrate and nourish, as well as provide a wonderful source of vitamins, minerals and amino acids. Help nourish and strengthen hair and skin with seaweed. Laminaria digitata and ascophyllum nosodum contain 18 amino acids that act as the building blocks of protein to restore the structure of damaged hair. Plus, 12 vitamins and 42 trace elements provide extraordinary nourishment, hydration and antioxidant properties for both the hair and scalp, while essential fatty acids help maintain the barrier between them. A dry scalp and hair need to rebuild their barrier. For the scalp, look for products with essential fatty acids from seeds and nuts such as safflower seed oil. This helps hold in the scalp’s natural moisture. For the hair, look for porphyra umbilicalis seaweed extract, which has high levels of sericin that enable the hair to retain its own moisture while also helping link hair fibers to improve elasticity, resiliency and natural moisture balance. This powerful sea plant is known to increase hair strength by 13 percent and elasticity by 7.8 percent, so your client’s hair will be beautiful, strong and protected regardless of the weather. Thermal action is another wonderful feature for hair and scalp treatments, especially in the colder winter months. Get your clients out of the cold, into the spa and into a warm, relaxing and results-oriented treatment! Not only will your clients feel all warm and fuzzy, but thermal action helps the treatment actives penetrate deeper. While you’re at it, why not offer your clients a hand treatment as well? We all know that the winter months can take a toll on our hands, so

while the hair treatment is working its magic, upgrade your client’s service with a hand treatment or complimentary hand massage using an insulating hand cream! And don’t forget—retail, retail, retail! If your client came in and received a hand treatment and a hair spa treatment, they should go home with a hand cream and a deep conditioning athome hair care mask to help keep both their hands and hair hydrated between visits. So go ahead and tell your clients that there is no need to hide under wool caps this winter— give them a spa hair experience that will make them proud to let their luscious locks down! n

Lydia Sarfati is the president and founder of Repêchage. She is an internationally recognized skin care expert with more than 30 years of experience in the industry, and has been quoted in multiple highly respected publications and appeared on television for her expertise. Sarfati is the honorary chair of EstheticsAmerica, CIDESCO USA and the Skin Care & Spa Council Director of Intercoiffure North America. She is the recipient of numerous prestigious industry awards, including LNE & Spa’s Crystal Award. Email her at Lydia@repechage.com.

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photo: Tovkach Oleg/Shutterstock.com

FOR THE SCALP, LOOK FOR PRODUCTS WITH ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS FROM SEEDS AND NUTS SUCH AS SAFFLOWER SEED OIL. THIS HELPS HOLD IN THE SCALP’S NATURAL MOISTURE.

Odacité bridges anti-aging skin care with absolute purity. The Discovery Kit provides the maintenance of optimum antioxidant activity without the addition of preservatives or synthetic chemicals. This 10day skin treatment kit includes a Rejuvenating Cleanser, Immortelle Toner, Jojoba Beads Exfoliant, Beautiful Day Moisturizer, Night Time Repair Serum, Deep Hydration Mask, Ultra Effective Eye Cream and two facial sponges. www.odacite.com

SENSATIONAL SUPERFRUITS Treat your clients’ skin to the nutritional superpowers of fruit with the Cranberry Pomegranate Masque from Éminence Organic Skin Care. Loaded with whole fruits, seeds and juice, high levels of polyphenols revitalize and protect skin while improving tone and the signs of aging. Additional beneficial ingredients in the nutrition packed masque include flax oil, sunflower and gooseberry. www.eminenceorganics.com

PLANT PURITY The Essential Oil Air Nutrition from Intelligent Nutrients is a great addition to your retail shelves this holiday season. The multifunctional formula can be used as a cool air diffuser or sprayed on hair, skin or body to purify, deodorize and refresh, making it an easy selection for anyone on your clients’ gift lists! www.intelligentnutrients.com

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

YOUTHFUL REJUVENATION The BioMVP Rejuvenating Serum by Dr. Jeff is an advanced anti-aging concentrate for dry or mature skin. Formulated with Himalayan Red Rice stem cells, peptides and botanicals of arbutin, algae, aloe, oat, dandelion and green tea, it provides an intensive treatment to rejuvenate and firm the complexion. It also helps to promote collagen biosynthesis, relax wrinkles, soften age spots, nourish stressed skin and restore its resilience. www.dr-jeff.com

ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS

COMPLETE COLLECTION

ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES MORE NEWS

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 105

ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS BOTANICAL BLEND The Biotone Facial Therapy Massage Crème is a blend of firming actives, skin smoothing botanicals and silky emollients. White peach, pineapple enzyme, quince and mango mandarin are included to help soften and smooth the skin, and essential oils of tangerine, rosewood and lemongrass provide a fresh, light aroma. www.BIOTONE.com

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POLISHED PERFECTION

SOOTHING SOLUTION Soothe, nourish and improve the appearance of winter weary skin with Platinum Peptide Cream™ from Bio-Therapeutic. The rich, paraben free cream is formulated with green tea and vitamin E to fight free radicals, and the proprietary lipopeptide to fight against sagging and deflated skin. www.bio-therapeutic.com

Jan Marini’s limited-edition Marini Holiday Exfoliator, featuring a Pumpkin Spice scent, is a clinical strength resurfacer featuring a unique spherical dissolving bead technology. It refines skin texture and follicle size, and leaves the skin with a radiant, polished glow, says the company. Key natural ingredients in the formula include glycolic acid, proteolytic enzymes and antioxidants. www.janmarini.com

STOCKING STUFFER

BENEFICIAL BREW Immuno-Viva™ offers two delicious, health promoting teas. The Sunrise Tea combines black, green and white tea with a blend of powerful seed powders, ultimately supporting immune health and concentration, fighting free radicals and stress while delivering natural energy. Sunset Tea contains a variety of healthy herbs and antioxidants to promote restful sleep, relaxation, immune health and natural focus. www.immunoviva.com

The ultra-rich, velvety smooth Candlenut Hand & Body Balm from Juara is the perfect stocking stuffer to retail at your spa for the holidays, as it makes a perfect gift for anyone. This exotic treat, used widely in Indonesian spas, moisturizes and helps mend rough, chapped skin without any greasiness, says the company. www.juaraskincare.com

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all that glitters is gold!

photo: Valua Vitaly/Shutterstock.com

by Olivia Smalley

THE HOLIDAY SEASON IS THE PERfect time of year for dressing up and looking one’s best, as many people are getting together with friends and family more than ever. While dressing up may be many of your clients’ favorite thing about the holiday season, having a beautiful face that makes a statement ties it all together, and is just as important as the outfit they wear. The holiday season is the best time to glam up your clients’ beauty routine, and it is essential to know what (and what not) to do. The three basic areas to emphasize are the eyes, lips and cheeks. It is never a good idea to play up all three areas at once. The whole point is to give the entire look balance. Let’s start the season off right with a makeup tutorial to get in the spirit! It is all about the golden glow this season. Warm hues like cinnamon, copper and champagne spice up any look, and adding a touch of smoke and lash will wow any onlooker. Gold makeup can have a great impact on one’s features when viewed in low, sultry lighting. Starting out your application on a clean canvas is essential. If your client has oils lingering on their face when you do their makeup, they will be facing a shiny situation halfway into the event. When their face is completely clean, apply a moisturizer, along with a face and eye primer, to ensure that none of the foundation rubs off when they share kisses and cheek hugs. In the winter months, a liquid foundation is always preferable over a powder foundation—it’s just more moisturizing and lasts longer in drier, colder weather, and creates a dewy appearance that looks outstanding!

Where the inner corners of the eyes meet the nose, apply a pop of light white shimmer to brighten and open up the entire face. Since the eye primer is already applied, jump right into the golden goodness. Where the inner corners of the eyes meet the nose, apply a pop of light white shimmer to brighten and open up the entire face. With a lid brush, slide the gold along the entire eyelid. With a crease brush, apply a burgundy or bronze eye shadow into the groove of the eye socket. Blend the color until there is no line of demarcation. With the same white shimmer, glide it along the brow bone for an extra contour. To create drama, use black or dark brown eyeliner on the top and bottom of the lid, and under the top lashes. If you want to add something to the look, use a smudging brush on the lash line. Take the lash curler and blow the dryer on it for 20 seconds. Ensure the medal is not too hot, and pump the curler five times per eye. Apply thickening eyelash mascara with fibers for an extreme fake lash look. Next, fill in eyebrows using a brow pencil that matches your client’s shade. Eyebrows are often forgotten, but can make a world of difference to the face, as can contouring. Make sure to darken the hallows of the cheekbones, and then apply a shimmer highlight right onto the cheekbones. For added illusions, apply to the bridge of the nose, chin and middle of the forehead, but

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

be careful not to overdo it. Use a large brush to evenly distribute product onto these areas. Complete this look with a nude lipstick and champagne gloss. If your client is feeling a bit daring, berry lipstick with champagne gloss works very well! Keep in mind that you want everyone to remember your client and their stunning face. Parties are the perfect time for your clients to break out of the same old beauty routine. So go ahead and have some fun with your clients’ looks this holiday season—just be careful not to go overboard! n * View a YouTube video of this tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/omgartistry. Olivia Smalley is the founder and owner of OMG! Artistry, a freelance hair and makeup company. Smalley’s talents have been featured in the Florida Panthers Ice Dancers Calendar and Fort Lauderdale Fashion Week. She can be reached at omgartistry@yahoo.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 107

brushes: Shutterstock.com

Beauty EDIT TRANSFORMING AN AU NATUREL DAYTIME look into a fabulous evening look is a task that can be achieved in a few simple steps. Utilizing the right lip color is a central component. Read the following tutorial to create red lips that make a perfect statement for evening glamour!

DAY APPLICATION

STEP 1:

An application of water base foundation and concealer on the face and lips is followed by a generous application of transparent loose powder that sets the base. 4

BY PAMELA TAYLOR Page 108 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

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November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

PHOTOGRAPHED•BY: DAREN www.LNEONLINE.com Page 109 THOMAS

image|beauty edit

STEP 2:

A natural straw shimmer shadow is swept over the lid, then blended to add shine and a tint of color. *Notice the use of the shadow guard to prevent excessive application of shadow beneath the eye.

STEP 3: 1.

2.

A sweep of deep chocolate brown matte mascara is applied to the lashes in a side-to-side motion. Brows are brushed in an upward position to shape.

STEP 4:

Lips are glossed with a shea butter-based stained lip tint, then mixed and blended in a neutral pink tone.

FINAL BEAUTY IMAGE AU NATUREL, FROM DAY TO EVENING

STEP 5: 3.

4.

Lip color is removed and based with a foundation. Using a fine-tipped sable lip brush, a custom blend of red lip crème shapes the lip. No lip liner is applied.

STEP 6:

Neutral powder is sifted through a fine tissue to set the lip color for staying power and a matte finish.

STEP 7:

A fine black matte cake eyeliner adds definition and a finishing touch! n * All products courtesy of makeup inc.

5.

6.

A SWEEP OF DEEP CHOCOLATE BROWN MATTE MASCARA IS APPLIED TO THE LASHES IN A SIDETO-SIDE MOTION.

7.

Pamela Taylor is a recognized authority in editorial print and fashion makeup. Known for her Hydration Technique, she is an internationally published author, educator and speaker on current makeup trends and techniques. Taylor boasts an extensive celebrity clientele. She is owner and director of the Pamela Taylor Makeup Academy in New York City, where she is based. For more information, visit www.pamelataylor.com or call 212.620.5792.

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November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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THERE’S ALWAYS A REASON TO

celebrate

photo: Shutterstock.com

BY MARIA CALABRESA-ECHELARD

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planning special events: a blueprint for success HAVE YOU ALREADY PLANNED THE LAUNCH party for your new holiday products and colors at your salon or spa? Is event planning at the top of your “to-do” list? Don’t fret. There is still enough time to plan a wildly successful event to celebrate the winter season; however, you will have to get started today. This article covers the why, who, what, where, when and how of any event you host—throughout the entire planning process all the way through to the big day.

Why? Business growth and development objectives: Create strategies for success Why do you want to organize the event? What is your goal? • Increase the overall revenue for your salon/spa? • Increase the visibility and prestige of your salon/spa? • Expand the diversity of your customer base? • Increase your clientele? • Increase volume of revenue earned per customer? • Increase retail sales? • Promote your products and/or services? • Introduce a new product or service to customers? • Host a master class? • Increase prices for skin care and makeup services? • Maintain inventory levels to boost product turnover and minimize “out of stock” concerns? • Promote a social cause? continues

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image|there’s always a reason to celebrate

THE BEST WAY TO BUILD A PERSONAL CLIENTELE FILE, WHETHER DIGITAL OR PAPER, IS THE OLD FASHIONED WAY—THROUGH DOCUMENTATION AND COMMUNICATION.

Defining event objectives at the start of the planning process is very important, as it helps to determine the direction you should take to accomplish the objectives. Make sure the purpose for the special event is important enough to merit the time and expense to properly stage, publicize and evaluate the event. Carefully match the type of event that is selected to the purpose that it serves. Remember, you won’t have any idea whether your event was a success without the right metrics.

Who will be your target audience? Will it simply consist of guests? How many different target audiences are you expecting to attend the event—and why? Personal clientele file: Any successful event begins with a strong clientele. What is the difference between a customer and a client? A customer can be anyone who buys anything from you; a client is someone that you have built a relationship with, someone who is faithful to you, your spa and the brand. The client is your repeat customer.

Event planning guide/checklist: 8 weeks prior to event: • Develop a master plan. • Establish event revenue goals and budget. • Schedule the date and time of the event; inform staff and vendors. • Select an event manager and members of your planning committee. Involve as many staff as possible. • Review and update your client database. • Develop your promotional campaign. How are you going to promote your event at each stage (pre-event, during event and post-event)? • Prepare copy for program, event menu of services, flyers, invitations and printed materials. 6 weeks prior to event: • Schedule an event meeting. • Begin weekly update with makeup artists/estheticians. • Check stock levels. Order products as appropriate. Request additional collateral material and new visuals. • Cross promote with other departments in your salon/spa.

• Calculate the number of appointments needed to reach the event’s goal. • Create a timeline and incentives for artists to exceed any booking expectations. • Designate event hosts. • Confirm availability of freelancers and vendor representatives. • Schedule an offsite day for your team to prepare an event meeting and organize gear. • Create or update a strong look book that captures the trends and theme of the upcoming event. • Create an expanded appointment schedule. Organize your appointment calendar to schedule 20-30 minute skin and/or makeup consultations. • Create a call back list for clients who wish to book at a later date. • Take an inventory of all amenities needed for station setups (skin care, makeup, tools, disposables) and gather them. • Create a visual merchandising wish list (director chairs, team t-shirts, window display units and banners with your logo).

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images: Shutterstock.com

Who?: Target audience

image|there’s always a reason to celebrate

The best way to build a personal clientele file, whether digital or paper, is the old fashioned way—through documentation and communication. Expand your client questionnaire to gather detailed information about a client and their beauty needs. Expand the form to include questions about the client’s makeup habits, skin care, beauty preferences and style. Additionally, include questions about their skin care and makeup regimens (including current product use). Get into their virtual bathroom. What’s on their vanity? How much time do they spend applying makeup each day? How many products do they typically use? What colors are they most comfortable wearing? Do they change their look on weekends and for special occasions? What would they like to change about their current regimen or look? Don’t forget to note the client’s makeup, hair and clothing style when you first meet them. It is also important—especially for event generation—to gain permission to contact clients for seasonal color launches, makeup classes and so on. Following up is important for devel-

BE SURE TO IDENTIFY THE UNIQUE SELLING POINT OF YOUR EVENT AND MAKE SURE THAT COMES ACROSS CLEARLY IN YOUR MARKETING AND ADVERTISING. BE ORIGINAL—DON’T AIM TO COPY OTHER SIMILAR EVENTS. oping a higher level of customer service, and strengthening your clientele base. A detailed clientele file is the key to working smarter, not harder in your business. It will be the gift that keeps on giving, and will provide reasons for you to follow up with your client. It’s a record of client purchases, samples given, invitations to events and follow-up dates. My three last tips regarding the “who” element of planning: always note not only the follow-up date, but also the result of the conversation; share clients and communicate with your colleagues; convert retail customers into service clients. continues

4 weeks prior to event: • Contact local media with details about the event. • Mail out invitations/postcards/flyers/announcing the event. Be sure to include RSVP information, a map of the location and parking information. The invitation to the event is one of the most important aspects of the entire planning process. You don’t want to send out the first invite too early or too late. Three to four weeks out is a good rule to live by. Make it easy to be an attendee. • Post information about the event on your website and Facebook page. Include photos and video coverage of previous events hosted at your spa/salon to create more excitement. • Send an e-blast out to your client database. • Contact vendors to check on the status of your inventory order and collateral material. Fully stock the retail products you will be promoting; events are proven retail builders. Utilize historical data from prior events to set stock levels. Prior to event meeting: • Designate support for setting up and taking down the event.

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

• Evaluate your team’s progress on booking appointments. • Confirm delivery schedule of all collateral, chairs for station set up and additional products/display units. 2 weeks prior to event • Hold an event meeting with staff, covering all logisitcs and details. • Event should be 75 percent booked. • Deep clean the entire salon/spa. • Plan refreshments. Establish the menu and any special dietary considerations. Source a caterer as appropriate. • Ensure that you have clean product testers, product catalogs and complete set-ups for each station. • Select the background music. • Follow up with all invitations sent from the client database. Those who have RSVP’d should receive reminders that differ in timing and message than those who haven’t. • Confirm freelancers/visiting artists/vendor representatives. • Continue any cross promotion. • Gather feedback from artists on keeping focused and continues

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 115

image|there’s always a reason to celebrate

THE BUDGET SHOULD BE SPECIFIC, AND INCLUDE REVENUE OPPORTUNITIES (RETAIL AND SERVICE SALES) AS WELL AS EXPENSES (PRINTING, INVITATIONS, SIGNS, FOOD, BEVERAGES, SUPPLIES, GIVEAWAYS/FAVORS).

Potential clients: Long on event ideas but short on clients? Expand your customer base through event generation with other businesses. Examples of such businesses include hotels (a beauty care destination for hotel guests), travel agencies, convention centers (spouse events), clubs/restaurants (promotions and product launches at clubs), makeup academies, event planners (bridal expos), boutique retailers/designers (trunk shows/fashion shows), local art institutes (they often sponsor fashion shows) and so on.

What?: What you need for a wildly successful event

Develop a master plan and set the event date. • Event profile and name. What are the objectives of the event? What is the theme? Be sure to identify the unique selling point of your continues

charged up for the event. Ask them what they can do as a team to keep building the momentum. • Each artist and staff member should have a clear understanding of: a. Which anniversary of the event this one marks. b. Goals for the event, daily and individual. c. How many appointments need to be booked. d. Product focus and any product knowledge training (if it is a new product launch). e. Update on stock levels for the event. f. How the salon/spa will function daily during the event, with existing staff and incoming support. g. Designated hosts for each day. h. Floor plan and visual merchandising plan. 1 week prior to event • The event is 100 percent booked at this point. • Create individual appointments and lunch schedules with daily sales objective logs for each artist, tracking items per transaction and average unit sales. • Organize all brush sets, skin care and amenities for station set up.

images: Shutterstock.com

In two words—a plan. If you decide to host an event, the event must be a priority for your business, otherwise it will not be successful. You need to map out a strategy.

• Confirm appointments. Call everyone who has RSVP’d to remind them of the event. Call invitees who have not RSVP’d to find out if they are planning to attend. • Discuss staff makeup inspirations for the event day. • Prepare an out-of-stock list, and make copies available to all stations. Remove out of stock products from tester stations and kit boxes. The day before the event • Check, double check and check again. Always double check rather than guess. Don’t leave anything to the last minute. • Ensure that the salon/spa is immaculate. Walk through it and assess it from a client’s perspective. • Complete the set up for event day, including all visuals and stations. Envision how you want attendees to experience the event. What will your guest see from the time they walk into the venue to the registration table to the actual event? The “feel” of the setting matters. The only way to anticipate how your event will feel is to walk a mile in your guests’ shoes. • Confirm appointments. continues

Page 116 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

Professional Facial and Home Care for when you want to look your holiday best. Clinical tests show: • 300 % increase in eye and neck hydration • 44% Wrinkle Reduction • 36% skin Elasticity improvement • 50% increase healthy skin cells Home Care

Professional Care

A time to give and receive. Christina USA wishes to start this holiday season by sharing our blessings. Every order placed in November will receive a 10% discount, and a donation of 5% of the order total will go to one of the children’s charities listed on our home page. This donation will be made in your name as well as ours.

| Tel: 1-888-604-6268 (se habla espanol) | Fax: 1-941-296-7320 | Web: https://shop.christina-usa.com | E-mail: customerservice@christina-usa.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #107 on reader service card

STATION SET UP/ KIT BOXES. IT IS CRITICAL TO HAVE THE APPROPRIATE WORKSPACE AND SUPPLIES IN ORDER TO BE FUNCTIONAL AND WELCOMING.

Event day outline • Hold a brief staff meeting to review each staff member’s assignments. Answer any questions. • Take one more complete walk through. • Set up refreshments and floral arrangements. • Turn the event operations over to the hosts so that you can circulate throughout the salon/spa with your guests. • Greet guests immediately upon their arrival. Distribute a “program/menu” as guests arrive, so they know what to expect. • Post pictures on your Facebook page and tweet about ongoing event highlights to catch the attention of your target audiences and the media. • Smile and have a great time! Event follow-up • Phone attendees to thank them for participating in your event; ask how their products are performing and offer to book a future service for them. • After the event, mail any printed material with an appropriate letter to invitees who were unable to attend. • Remember to thank everyone who participated. Send photos if possible.

event and make sure that comes across clearly in your marketing and advertising. Be original—don’t aim to copy other similar events. • Create a budget. What will be the cost for producing and marketing the event? The budget should be specific, and include revenue opportunities (retail and service sales) as well as expenses (printing, invitations, signs, food, beverages, supplies, giveaways/ favors). Think back to events you have attended, and imagine all the little things that were involved. What do you absolutely need? What can you live without? Make up a checklist and start developing an overall price tag. Keep the budget sheet up to date, and review it regularly. • Involve staff. Involve your team. Ask for volunteers. Establish a planning committee, and nominate one person as the event manager to coordinate and oversee all aspects of the event. Once everything else is in place, an event is only as successful as your staff’s support of it. • Plan publicity. Formulate a publicity plan. Decide when and how media should be concontinues

• Immediately following the event, evaluate its success while the details are fresh in your mind. Recap the event with entire staff, and consider their feedback: a. Compare the event plan versus the actual outcome. Did the event fulfill its goals and objectives? Why or why not? b. Number of attendees versus invitees. Was the event well attended? c. How many appointments were booked versus walk-ins? d. How many new customer profile cards did you add to your collection? e. How successful was the sale of the new/limited edition products (if the event featured a product launch)? f. Break down the number of products sold per vendor. g. Tally the number of future treatments booked. h. Was informal and formal feedback about the event positive? i. Given all that went into staging, was the result worth all the trouble? j. What items from the checklist were missing? Gather feedback on the event’s successes and challenges. Discuss what you can try next time that might improve your results.

Page 118 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

images: Shutterstock.com

image|there’s always a reason to celebrate

Visit us at IECSC, Florida Booth #1512 Nov. 4-5, 2012.

DISPLAY

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GrandeHAIR Serum

Go to www.grandewholesale.com or call 1-877-835-3010 to become a retailer. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #286 on reader service card

tacted. The primary objective is to publicize the event. Brainstorm all the available media, including marquees, school newsletters, church announcements, regional cable and commercial stations, newspapers, magazines and social media. Make a detailed list, with the names of whom to contact and when. • Retail product. Full stock levels are essential in reaching revenue goals; even if the event’s primary purpose is a service promotion. • Station set up/kit boxes. It is critical to have the appropriate workspace and supplies in order to be functional and welcoming.

Where and when?: Where do you start? What are you celebrating? If you are feeling a little overwhelmed at this point, don’t fret. We’ll help you get started. There are many websites dedicated to calendars with special days to celebrate. Monthly events to be celebrated are just an Internet click away! Of course, there are the usual suspects: Christmas, Hanukkah, New Year’s Day, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day and Halloween. Then there are the more obscure and cheeky occasions: Fruitcake Toss Day, Chocolate Covered Anything Day, No Socks Day, Send a Card to Someone Special Day, Wear Purple For Peace Day, etc. No matter what day you are celebrating, the process of planning and executing an event is the same. Most industry insiders will say you need to start planning at least three months in advance of an event; in many cases, they will recommend beginning the planning process a year ahead of time. All great businesses—including major retailers, skin care and makeup companies, consistently generate an annual event revenue calendar. This organizational tool helps set the path for their business to achieve their revenue goals. There is always flexibility to add additional events as the desire and/or need arises. Use their strategy as a blueprint. Mix it up; schedule

Maria Calabresa-Echelard is a makeup artist, licensed esthetician and owner of Gamine Productions and Gamine Beauty Bar. She specializes in modern beauty makeup and has experience in runway, retail, television and print. Echelard teaches courses in makeup and esthetics for both seasoned and future professionals. Find out more at www. gaminebeautybar.com or via Facebook at http:// www.facebook.com/gaminebeautybar. Contact her at maria.echelard@me.com or 954.461.1226.

Page 120 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2012

photo: Photosync/Shutterstock.com

NO MATTER WHAT DAY YOU ARE CELEBRATING, THE PROCESS OF PLANNING AND EXECUTING AN EVENT IS THE SAME.

some formal “by invitation only” events (product launches, open houses, etc.), but schedule these less frequently. Formal events require larger financial and staffing commitments. Plan a larger number of “spontaneous” events on a regular basis, such as themed weekends. These events are short on expense but not on fun. By scheduling events in advance, you are taking the first step in creating a “save the date” buzz, heightening anticipation and guaranteeing a larger turnout. As long as you are not into kitschy stuff, this is not as daunting as you may think. Partner with your vendors to host product launch events. “Piggyback” onto your city’s published Calendar of Events. Connect with neighboring businesses to plan a block party. Support local charities— many worthwhile organizations look for businesses in their own community to partner with to bring about awareness to their causes. And last but not least—talk to your staff. They are closest to your clientele, and can key you in on what your clients may like, as well as come up with creative ideas. Involve your staff from the conception to the execution. You’ll be pleasantly surprised at how many “closet” party planners you have on staff. Finish 2012 with a great winter event; start 2013 with an event calendar that will make your competitors green with envy. It is important to remember to celebrate your successes and to thank all of those who contributed. In addition to meeting your business targets with greater ease, you might be pleasantly surprised by some of the by products of scheduling/ hosting events on a regular basis—including increased staff enthusiasm, morale and motivation. You will find that you and your staff will be more present when you are at work. n

LOVELY LUXURY

NATURAL ELEMENTS MiA BelleZZa cosmetics are hypoallergenic products formulated with natural elements. The makeup collections are wax free, fragrance free and paraben free. Made with natural pigments, MiA BelleZZa makeup is more intense, longer lasting and moisture absorbing, allowing it to be used in lower quantities than traditional makeup, says the company. www.miabellezza.com

SLEEPING BEAUTY For a truly innovative gift to retail this holiday season, offer your clients the LASHcloud by NOVALASH®. Made of 100 percent silk, the pillow eliminates the tangling and twisting of lash extensions overnight, prevents the crushing of delicate collagen fibers that may lead to premature wrinkles and makes the perfect companion for home, travel, hospital visits and even recovery from cosmetic surgery, says the company. www.novalash.com

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

BETTER BROWS The 3 Steps to Beautiful Brows Kit from Billion Dollar Brows provides everything necessary to condition, color and control the brows. A deep conditioning treatment is designed to strengthen thin brows and make them fuller. A universal brow pencil works with all skin tones and hair colors, and the clear brow gel locks in any look, creating a perfectly polished, manicured finish. www.billiondollarbrows.com

IMAGENEWS

The Caviar Manicure SetMother of Pearl from Ciaté creates three-dimensional nails that are feminine, indulgent and delicately extravagant. The finished effect gives nails an instantly sophisticated look, says the company. This elegant set contains one Caviar Beads White and one Paint Pot Nail Polish. Call 1.877.903.3399 for more information. www.ciateworld.com/media

MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 121

classified ads

products • distributors • services • training • new/used equipment • employment

PRODUCTS Refectocil Tint Pure Black, Blue-Black, Natural Brown, Light Brown, Deep Blue, Graphite, Chestnut, Red and Blonde Bleaching Paste. 1.877.547.5463 www.dermagraphicsinc.com

EMPLOYMENT We are a French cosmeceutical skin care company distributed through a network of 70 business partners in 64 countries around the world. We are actually looking for an exclusive business partner in the USA. For more information please visit our website at www.ericson-laboratoire.com or send an e-mail to export@ericsonlaboratoire.com Image Skincare seeks Territory Managers to join U.S. sales force Are you an esthetician? Do you want an income with no limits? Do you have sales experience? Are you self-motivated with an entrepreneurial mindset? Would you like a flexible schedule? Do you LOVE this business? If you have answered “yes” to these questions and are interested in working for the most fun, dynamic and innovative company in the cosmeceutical industry, send your resume to resumes@imageskincare.com and visit

http://www.imageskincare.com/pages/job-opportunities for a list of available territories. RD Management is the USA agent for several International companies. Specifically, we are looking for Superior Sales Reps for two important brands: MATIS-Paris and Academie Scientifique – Two outstanding skincare lines. We are also looking for part time trainers for each of these brands. Prime territories are available – territories can be flexible full or parttime. Come grow with us! Contact us for more details and to submit your resume email to: DAR@MyRDM.com Éminence Organic Skin Care is looking for their next outstanding International Trainer. Must be a licensed esthetician, have 2 years experience with Éminence products and willing to travel extensivly. Previous training experience an asset. Visit www.eminenceorganics.com to learn more.

EDUCATION Microcurrent Training Facial Rejuvenation Program DVD, Manual, Laminated Chart $149.99 Microcurrent Therapy Training. Visit www.microcurrenttraining.com Call 1.415.299.0924

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card

To place an ad, please call 800.471.0229 ext. 103, e-mail maria@lneonline.com or visit www.lneonline.com.

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 123

WEST | CENTRAL | EAST

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

West NOVEMBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. Distance learning available.

Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424. HydroPeptide Product Training Seminar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 10 a.m. PST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.

NOVEMBER 4 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Jose, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

NOVEMBER 5 Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN. Making Money With Bio-Therapeutic Devices! (Webinar) by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PT Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Jose, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

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West Central East International

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

NOVEMBER 12

NOVEMBER 6

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Honolulu, HI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

NOVEMBER 11 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Honolulu, HI. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

map: ©iStockphoto.com/Malcolm Romain

T Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & hemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

In-House Product Knowledge Training by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. www.skinscriptrx.com.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Anchorage, AK. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

NOVEMBER 19 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Anchorage, AK. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Boise, ID. 877.PCA.SKIN.

NOVEMBER 18

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT continues

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 125

calendar|west|central

CALENDAR OF EVENTS NOVEMBER 20

DECEMBER 10

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Layering Tehnology According to Client Skin Type and Concern (Webinar) by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

NOVEMBER 26 Bio-HydrodermV2 Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PT

NOVEMBER 27 Bio-Synthesis Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PT

NOVEMBER 28 Bio-Ultimate Platinum Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PT

NOVEMBER 29 Bio-Oxygen Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

DECEMBER 11

2 Day “Skin-tensive” Training by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. www.skinscriptrx.com.

NOVEMBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150.

Bio-HydrodermV2 Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 12 p.m. C.S.T. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.E

DECEMBER 12

NOVEMBER 4

Bio-Synthesis Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Oklahoma City, OK. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

DECEMBER 13

NOVEMBER 5

Bio-Ultimate Platinum Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Oklahoma City, OK. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

NOVEMBER 18 DECEMBER 14

DECEMBER 2-3

Central

Bio-Oxygen Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

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calendar|central|east

NOVEMBER 19 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

East NOVEMBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150. Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.

NOVEMBER 4 HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Raleigh, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference Skincare. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150.

NOVEMBER 5

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Raleigh, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

NOVEMBER 11 Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 127

calendar|east

CALENDAR OF EVENTS Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Newark, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Philadelphia, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

NOVEMBER 12 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. West Palm Beach, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2013 April 7-8 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2013 May 5-6 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2013 September 29-30 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013 October 27-28 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

Biolight™ Miracle Facial...Beyond Brightening Facial Workshop by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Manchester, NH. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Newark, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

NOVEMBER 19

T Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Philadelphia, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

NOVEMBER 13 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

NOVEMBER 18 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Cape Coral, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Biolight™ Miracle Facial...Beyond Brightening Facial Workshop by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Cape Coral, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Manchester, NH. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT Repêchage Webinar: Steps to Success & the Art of Recommendation by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

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calendar|east

DECEMBER 2 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

T Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

November 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Pittsburgh, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Virginia Beach, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 129

advertisers’ index Page Number

Reader Service No.

6................. 5 Star Formulators................................................... www.5starformulators.com............................................. 180 5................. A Natural Difference................................................. www.anaturaldifference.com.......................................... 232 76............... Allied Health Association........................................ www.alliedhealth.net...................................................... 209 2-3............. Aveda...................................................................... www.aveda.com............................................................. 130 8................. Beautiful Image....................................................... www.beautifulimagellc.com........................................... 183 42,73.......... Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... www.bio-therapeutic.com.............................................. 139 21............... Bioslimming............................................................ www.bioslimming.com................................................... 335 88............... Brushes by Karen.................................................... www.brushesbykaren.com.............................................. 104 117............. Christina.................................................................. www.christina-usa.com................................................... .107 9................. Clarisonic................................................................ www.clarisonic.com/professional................................... .352 26............... Cosmétiques France Laure..................................... www.francelaure.com..................................................... .199 122............. Cosmobelleza......................................................... www.cosmobelleza.com...................................................... 132............. Darphin................................................................... www.darphin.com.......................................................... .159 71............... DermaSwiss............................................................. www.dermaswiss.com.................................................... 245 123............. Dr. Jeff..................................................................... www.dr-jeff.com............................................................. .248 14-15...........Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. www.eminenceorganics.com............................................ 157 72................Enspri...................................................................... www.enspriskincare.com.................................................. 318 101............. Equipro................................................................... www.equipro-bty.com...................................................... 242 119............. GrandeLash-MD...................................................... www.grandelashmd.com................................................. 286 23............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... www.hydropeptide.com................................................... 278 17............... Image Skincare........................................................ www.imageskincare.com.................................................. 178 39............... Innovative Skincare................................................. www.innovativeskincare.com............................................ 240 131............. Jojoba Company...........................................................www.jojobacompany.com.............................................. 108 13............... Lady Burd......................................................................www.ladyburd.com........................................................ 119 11............... Le Mieux.......................................................................www.lemieuxcosmetics.com.......................................... 294 33............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................www.lucrece.com........................................................... .263 60............... Mineral Mine............................................................ www.mineral-mine.com.................................................. 103 61............... PCA Skin.......................................................................www.pcaskin.com........................................................... 110 31............... Pibbs..............................................................................www.pibbs.com.............................................................. 129 66............... Rapidlash......................................................................www.rapidlash.com........................................................ 224 94............... Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................www.rejuvilab.com......................................................... 149 7................. Sanítas..................................................................... www.sanitas-skincare.com.............................................. 298 90............... Sesha Skin Therapy........................................................www.seshaskin.com........................................................ 271 79............... Szep Élet/ilike.................................................................www.szepelet.com......................................................... 274 19............... Vitelle...................................................................... www.vitellelab.com........................................................ 206

*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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Pure & Safe

for even a newborn’s skin

Our HobaCare® 100% Pure Jojoba: The Professional’s Choice Aestheticians, massage therapists, and aroma therapists use our HobaCare® Jojoba on their clients and, most flattering of all, on themselves. They know our jojoba is absolutely pure; it has no fillers, additives or preservatives. And, it’s incredibly versatile. Use our HobaCare Jojoba for: • removing make-up, facial massage, and deep-cleansing the skin • all massage modalities requiring direct contact with the skin • revitalizing hair and scalp • enriching the skin after a shower or bath • providing soothing relief from psoriasis • conditioning and softening cuticles • soothing skin after exposure to the sun • blending essential oils (our website has many useful recipes)

Available in Pesticide-Free and USDA Certified 100% Organic in gallons as well as in the sizes shown above. (Litre, 250 ml, 125 ml and 1 oz)

HobaCare is non-allergenic. It does not stain, and does not clog pores or turn rancid. Our Jojoba has an indefinite shelf life.

Pure and safe for everyone’s skin

no animal testing / cruelty-free

no animal testing / cruelty-free

The Jojoba Company Since 1994

Contact Us hobacare@jojobacompany.com

www.jojobacompany.com

1-800 - 2 JOJOBA ( 1-800-256-5622 )

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #108 on reader service card

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #159 on reader service card


LNE & Spa - November 2012