LNE & Spa - October 2017

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals October 2017

$7.50

Ask An Expert Katy Muenter, Product Research & Development Manager at Éminence and Marine Biologist, shares the benefits of natural ingredients for your skin and her expert knowledge of the Earth’s aquatic eco-system.

Algae provide high concentrations of nutrients and amino acids that replenish and deliver superior hydrating benefits P R O D U C T R E S E A R C H & D E V E LO P M E N T M A N AG E R A N D M A R I N E B I O LO G I S T K AT Y M U E N T E R

to the skin.

that use the energy from the sun to grow. These range in size from

I have a shellfish allergy. Can I use the products in the Marine Flower Peptide Collection?

a single cell to over 50 meters long, and can be found in every

The Marine Flower Peptide Collection does not contain any

environment on the planet, including marine intertidal zones, hot

shellfish or animal-derived ingredients. If you can swim in the

springs, and even within ice and snow. Algae have many unique

ocean, you should have no adverse reactions to any products in

adaptations that help protect them from environmental damage so

this collection. As always, we recommend conducting a patch test

they can survive in these extreme conditions. The Marine Flower

before using any new skin care product. If you have a sensitivity

Peptide products feature several innovative algae extracts that

to iodine, you should check with your allergist prior to use.

Are algae plants or animals?

Neither! Algae are a special type of “photosynthetic” organism

impart these same powerful benefits to the skin!

Why are algae considered the “superfoods of the sea”?

Algae provide high concentrations of nutrients and amino acids that replenish and deliver superior hydrating benefits to the skin.

Just like land-based superfoods (such as blueberries and kale) are vibrant in color, the antioxidant pigments found in brightlycolored algae include chlorophyll and beta-carotene which naturally protect the skin.

Look for more great information about this and other Éminence collections by visiting: www.eminenceorganics.com/blog

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card

IMMERSE YOUR SKIN WITH MARINE FLOWER PEPTIDES

Smart Collagen+ Complex Doubles collagen density to visibly lift and fill wrinkles*

If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and Biodynamic® skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com. *

In vivo results after 84 day clinical study

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #201 on reader service card

from the

Skin Care for life inside and out®

editor

It is an honor to introduce myself as the new Managing Editor for Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa magazine. While I am a little nervous, and in awe of the opportunity I have been given, I am so excited and humbled to serve as your editor.

As an esthetician myself, I relate to your passions, concerns, struggles, and continual need for information and education. I too, love the purpose of our profession, and our unique ability to make our clients look better, and then feel better. Through our touch, we make our clients realize their self-worth, and that is the key for all of us to be empowered.

I am proud of LNE & Spa magazine for its integrity, its continuous commitment to evolving and expanding, and its ability to shine a light on the value of the esthetician.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card

®

6

3 easy steps to beautiful skin

My goal is to build upon the magazine's industry authority, and reach a new level of impact by invigorating readers to share their stories and engage with our content.

With your feedback, comments, and suggestions, my mission is to further your growth as a professional, to reignite your spark, and to be your source of inspiration…

Also this month, join us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa in Miami on October 22-23. This Congress is going to be an inspiring opportunity to change your mindset, recharge and breathe new life into your practices!

I look forward to seeing you there!

bio-therapeutic.com October2017

LNEonline.com

Cristina Beecham Licensed Esthetician mcristina@LNEonline.com

TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED

SKIN CARE

Skin Care for life inside and out®

bio-therapeutic.com

October volume 32 number 10

cover

The secret of change is to focus all of your energy, not on fighting the old but on building the new.

by Fabio Salsa 2017

Socrates

contents 20

The Latest On Retinol For Estheticians

26

Skin News

14 The Latest On Retinol For Estheticians

spa

guide

28 32 38 44

Carrier Oils How To Select Carrier Oils Warm Oil Spa Treatments Oils Photo Feature

business

Dermaplaning

o&w

14

62

Spa Staff Training

68

Team Building Tactics with Darcie Pritchett

70

Business News

62 Spa Staff Training 72

Aromatherapy For Stress

80

Buriti Oil

86

Organic and Wellness News

28 Carrier Oils

72 Aromatherapy for Stress

48

Spa Of The Month

88

53

Showerless Spa Treatments

58

Spa News

53 Showerless Spa Treatments

image

skin

6 From the Editor 98 Advertiser Index

Theresa Sabatela’s Key Tips for Makeup Retail In Your Practice

90

Mature Skin Makeup Techniques

96

Image News

90 Theresa Sabatela's

Key Tips for Makeup Retail in Your Practice

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

8

October2017

LNEonline.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #119 on reader service card

LUXURY GEM

3 Advanced Wax Formulas deliver optimal hair removal while creating a sense of comfort, calm and confidence.

Amethyst Crystal Wax

Scented with aromatic lotus flower

Golden Quartz Wax

Scented with exotic sandalwood

Silver Tourmaline Wax

Scented with soothing rose oil

WAX COLLECTION

Balance Energy Beauty Harmony Satin SmoothÂŽ has paired the latest waxing technology with finely milled gemstones based on Chakra energy. The vitality, colors and aromas of these mineral-infused waxes will transform your salon or spa to create an unforgettable waxing experience that connects the Body, Mind and Spirit.

facebook.com/SatinSmoothPRO

@SatinSmoothPRO

@SatinSmoothPRO

Š2017 Professional Products Division. www.satinsmooth.com 17SS030863.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #304 on reader service card

3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd.

Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229.

Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664.

LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Editorial Assistant & Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Luis Bolaños luis@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer webdeveloper@LNEonline.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #316 on reader service card

Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com

12

International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors Cristina Beecham Trish Green Eva SztupkaKerschbaumer Carrie Borzillo Mariska Nicholson Ivana S. Veljkovic Ph.D. Judith Bourgeois Dori Soukup Jaclyn Peresetsky Emilia DiRaddo

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

October2017

LNEonline.com

The NON NEGOTIABLES when skin needling

Now in new economical Back Bar sizes!

FOR MORE INFORMATION w: DpDerm.com ph: 844-7DP-DERM I 844-737-3376 DP Dermaceuticals may also be used as homecare by the patient. In addition to active meso-glides, the range also features a cleanser, exfoliant, moisturiser, mask and Cover Recover camouflage for pre and post-op maintenance. Specific protocol packs serve as non negotiables to ensure the best results when combined with skin needling procedures.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #256 on reader service card

14

October2017

LNEonline.com

Dermaplaning BENEFITS, PROTOCOL and TRAINING for dermaplaning in the spa

by Eva Sztupka-Kerschbaumer

It is well established that physical exfoliation can lead to healthier skin with better texture and more elasticity, resulting in a more keratinized cells on the outer stratum youthful appearance. corneum and fine, vellus hair (a.k.a.

Dermaplaning is quickly peach fuzz). gaining ground as a highThe skin is the body's largest orly popular form of physigan, and it is naturally covered with cal exfoliation, making it hair. People scrub it, pick at it, scratch a very important modality it, cover it, often neglect it and somefor today’s estheticians to times brutalize it. Skin is the source understand and master. At from which “bad stuff” is moved out its most basic description, of the body via the sweat glands, and it is the controlled scraping also serves as the barrier that prevents of the skin using a sterile, foreign bad stuff (bacteria, viruses, etc.) surgical blade held at a 45 from getting in. So at what point did hudegree angle to remove mans start to proactively remove some of the body’s “original equipment,” and how has that culminated in the spread of advanced skin care treatments such as dermaplaning?

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

15

skin dermaplaning

16

Ancient origins

How does it work?

Men have been enjoying benefits that mimic those of dermaplaning since ancient times due to their common practice of face shaving. Ancient Roman men scraped their skin on a regular basis using oil and a curved blade called a Strigil. In contrast, a straight razor shave most closely resembles the modern dermaplaning treatment.

However, straight-razor wielding barbers are elusive in the 21st century, and women certainly are not scheduling appointments at barbershops, as there is a widespread misconception that any form of shaving facial hair causes it to grow back coarser and darker.

However vellus hair on the face is actually safe to remove, as it is very different than terminal hair — the coarse hair that grows on the head, men’s beards, legs, underarms and private parts. Dermaplaning is not akin to shaving at home with a disposable razor.

Rather, this highly controllable and effective method of exfoliation — performed by trained professionals in a spa setting — fully and safely exfoliates the body's outer barriers.

Dermaplaning is a “controlled-trauma” treatment. The body reacts to this treatment by stimulating its interior emergency repair system (prompting increased circulation, more oxygen, additional nutrients and new cell stimulation) while allowing the trained professional to topically deliver antioxidants, peptides, growth factors, moisturizers and other vital nutrients to the fresh, newly exposed skin cells.

The treatment stimulates normal shedding of the stratum corneum, removes skin flaws and helps reduce fine lines, wrinkles, milia and congested pores.

Dermaplaning allows for greater control of the depth of the exfoliation and the area being treated. A sterilized, surgical-grade dermaplane blade becomes an artist's brush, transforming the client's face into a smooth canvas ready for makeup or a youthful, dewy, glowing complexion so radiant it doesn’t need any makeup!

October2017

LNEonline.com

Unique exfoliation

Dermaplaning in the spa

Dermaplaning allows professional practitioners to target very specific and defined areas, and provides precise control of the exfoliating process, stroke by stroke. It is safe for all skin types and clients, even those with extremely sensitive skin or conditions such as rosacea, making it a great alternative for skin that is irritated by other methods of exfoliation. There is little to no pain and discomfort involved in treatment, and no recovery time necessary. Clients walk out the door after a dermaplaning treatment already fresh-faced!

Dermaplaning provides an immediate and profound non-invasive facial rejuvenation treatment for men and women. While all ages benefit from the treatment, dermaplaning is especially beneficial for clients over 30. It can be performed as a standalone treatment, but it is typically marketed as either an upgrade to a traditional facial or included as part of an advanced facial.

Dermaplaning adds 20 to 30 minutes to a traditional facial service, plus an additional 15 minutes if the neck area is included.

Visit us at: ICES MIAMI Booths#215, 217

Powerful Anti-Aging Superfruits

Powerful Anti-Aging Superfruits Powerful Anti-Aging Superfruits Powerful Anti-Aging Superfruits Powerful Anti-Aging Superfruits Powerful Anti-Aging Superfruits

Powerful Anti-Aging Superfruits Powerful Anti-Aging Superfruits Powerful Anti-Aging Superfruits

Powerful Anti-Aging Superfruits

Our Products are as Pure as Nature Itself Our Products are as Pure as Nature Itself Our Products are as Pure Nature Itself Our Products are as Pure as Nature Itself Our Products are as Pure asas Nature Itself Our Products are as Pure as Nature Itself

Feel, Smell, and See the Difference!

Shir-Organic products contain all natural and organic ingredients with whole fruits and herbal pulps. Formulated with super-fruits that are saturated with phyto-nutrients, this Select Collection Select Collection Select Collection Select Collection Select Collection natural approach strengthens, hydrates skin, stimulates cell regeneration and defends Select Collection Our Products as Pure aspackaging Natureis one-of-a-kind Itself against environmental damage.are The unique bamboo and ecologically friendly.

Our Products are as Pure as Nature Itself

Introductory package deals for professionals are available.

Our Products are as Pure as Nature Itself Our Products are as Pure as Nature Itself Select Collection

3 Organic 2-18x24.indd 1 ShiraShira SliderSlider 3 Organic 2-18x24.indd 1 Shira Slider 3 Organic 2-18x24.indd 1 Shira Slider 3 Organic 2-18x24.indd 1

6/16/16 6/16/16 11:4111:41 AM AM 6/16/16 11:41 AM 6/16/16 11:41 AM

Shira Slider 3 Organic 2-18x24.indd 1

Shira Slider 3 Organic 2-18x24.indd 1

6/16/16 11:41 AM

Select Collection Select Collection

Select Collection Shira Slider 3 Organic 2-18x24.indd 1

Shira Slider 3 Organic 2-18x24.indd 1

www.shiraesthetics.com 800.957.4472 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #249 on reader service card info@shiraesthetics.com 6/16/16 11:41 AM

6/16/16 11:41 AM

6/16/16 11:41 AM

skin dermaplaning A typical cost for a standalone dermaplaning service or add-on typically ranges from $60 to $120. An upgraded advanced facial that incorporates dermaplaning can cost as much as $300 to $400. This type of advanced facial should include all the steps of a traditional facial: cleansing, steaming, dermaplaning, extractions, mask, massage, moisturizer and sunscreen.

Some clients may request a chemical or enzyme peel after the dermaplaning. Advise them to consider this with caution, as irritation can occur if dermaplaning is combined with a peel. Either way, the results of dermaplaning are immediately visible, and can last three to five weeks with proper home care. The exact duration of results is determined by each client's cellular renewal rate. Recommend that clients invest in a series of dermaplane treatments, combined with appropriate at-home products for lasting results.

Contraindications Dermaplaning should not be performed on clients who are undergoing cancer treatments, experiencing active acne outbreaks, have uncontrolled diabetes, are using Retin A or Accutane, have a history of active cold sores, have had laser treatments within the last two weeks, or those who have a blood disorder or are taking blood thinners.

Training There is a wide variety of training options available for dermplaning, as current laws are still undefined regarding its regulations. It is ideal to seek out training from a state licensed esthetics school, preferably certified by a national body such as the NCEA or overseen by a medical physician.

Proper training encompasses how to appropriately assess and evaluate potential clients, including the following information: knowledge of contraindications to treatment, proper sanitation of instruments and infection protection, hair growth cycles and patterns, how to maneuver the instrument, clinical end points, troubleshooting and post-procedure options. A complete program involves practical training on live models to observe different skin types and textures, and how each skin type reacts to this treatment. Quality training is offered by many different entities and classes are available throughout the United States. Certification can usually be accomplished in six to 10 hours and costs anywhere from $190 to $800. ď Ž

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #253 on reader service card

Dermaplaning is currently considered a noninvasive treatment in most states, while several state boards have not addressed the treatment at all. It is important to check with your state for specific requirements, and find out if your insurance carrier covers dermaplaning treatments.

18

Eva Sztupka-Kerschbaumer opened ESSpa Kozmetika in Pittsburgh, Penn., in 2002. A master esthetician, she is a founding member of the Green Spa Network and was humbled to be named one of the “Top 3 Estheticians in the United States� in 2016. When she is not traveling as the Director of Training for Maximum Active Dermaceuticals, SztupkaKerschbaumer can be found at one of her spas delivering facials to her clients. In her free time, she enjoys practicing yoga and playing games with her family.

October2017

LNEonline.com

COURAGE = BEAUTY

®

Join RevitaLash® Cosmetics in their fight to eradicate women’s cancers. A percentage of the profits* of each Pink product sold will benefit programs that empower women with cancer.

877.909.5274 revitalash.com

*As a devout supporter, RevitaLash® Cosmetics proudly donates a portion of all proceeds year-round to benefit breast cancer research and education initiatives. Expanding its corporate giving footprint, RevitaLash® Cosmetics will also donate a percentage of the company’s profits from the sale of each Pink sleeved product sold, up to a maximum donation of $10,000, to the Look Good Feel Better℠ Foundation to benefit the Look Good Feel Better program in the U.S., a program that empowers women with cancer to feel confident during treatment.

Look Good Feel Better is offered through a collaborative effort of the Look Good Feel Better Foundation, the charitable arm of the Personal Care Products Council, the trade group representing the cosmetics and beauty industry; the American Cancer Society; and the Professional Beauty Association. For more information, visit lookgoodfeelbetter.org. Look Good Feel Better is a registered trademark of the Look Good Feel Better Foundation. The Look Good Feel Better Foundation, the American Cancer Society and the Professional Beauty Association do not endorse any specific products and/or services.

RevitaLash® Advanced not available in California. © 2017 Athena Cosmetics, Inc.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #346 on reader service card

20

October2017

LNEonline.com

the latest on RETINOL for estheticians HOW RETINOL FOR ESTHETICIANS IS AN EFFECTIVE PROFESSIONAL SKIN CARE TREATMENT

by Ivana S. Veljkovic, Ph.D.

Topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) has been used to treat a variety of skin diseases since World War I. In the late 1960s, Dr. Albert Kligman began using topical tretinoin to treat acne.1 This prescription became the gold standard for the treatment of acute and chronic acne. Then after more than a decade of use, the other benefits became apparent as well, and many began using prescription tretinoin to fight wrinkles, skin discoloration and other visible signs of facial aging. Daily homecare with this beneficial ingredient has also led to the use of higher percentages for periodic, professionally applied retinoid peels to treat various skin disorders.

The mechanisms of action and benefits in daily care products and professional treatments are important to the understanding of retinol for estheticians.

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

21

skin the latest on retinol for estheticians

CHALLENGES SOLUTIONS

and

The human body cannot produce vitamin A (the key component of retinol); therefore it must be supplemented both internally and topically. With internal supplementation through diet, it takes several days before acceptable levels reach the skin. Topical application of vitamin A, on the other hand, builds up in the skin within hours. Finding an effective product of retinol for estheticians to use in their treatment room and recommend to clients can be a challenge, as the vitamin A molecule is inherently unstable and requires special formulation, manufacturing techniques, encapsulation, delivery and packaging to maintain stability and efficacy.

An additional challenge is that exposure to UV rays depletes the vitamin A in the skin, making regular application necessary. Topical antioxidants are a good complement to retinoids, as they accelerate the time it takes for vitamin A levels to be brought back to a healthy level after depletion. Whether retinol is used in daily home-care or a professional retinol peel, a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 is critical, as retinol can increase sun sensitivity. This is a result of the retinol thinning the stratum corneum — one of the ways that retinol improves skin’s overall appearance.

Retinoic acid is the active molecule that interacts with specific receptors in the skin, leading to biologic changes in the skin. Retinoic acid was the original prescription choice of physicians for topical use, but its surface activity has typically caused irritation, redness and discomfort in many who use this topical. Retinol is the precursor, or pro-drug, of retinoic acid. This means that topically applied retinol converts into retinoic acid, usable by the skin.

Retinol is less stimulating on the surface of the skin, leading to reduced irritation and therefore a higher likelihood of client compliance and positive skin improvement.

22

October2017

LNEonline.com

Once it was understood that retinol converted into retinoic acid within the skin and provided all the same benefits, the industry quickly moved to testing and using retinol to address a wider variety of concerns for clients.

But because the molecule is so sensitive and requires diligence in formulation techniques, initial retinol products were disappointing in their efficacy, leading many physicians to believe that topical retinol was not as effective as retinoic acid. It is now known that retinol products developed and manufactured under the right conditions can be highly effective and deliver strong benefits.

This makes retinol for estheticians a very valuable treatment tool in professional services and client home-care recommendations.

Mechanisms of action and benefits Retinol is a lipophilic molecule, meaning it penetrates through the lipid layers of the skin easily. Skin cells then enzymatically convert retinol into retinaldehyde, and then into retinoic acid

that interacts with specific receptors in the cells, and creates visible changes in the skin. These changes are seen throughout the layers of the skin. The stratum corneum becomes thinner and more compact, the viable epidermis becomes thicker and more compact, and melanin granules are dispersed. Skin discoloration is reduced, cell turnover and desquamation are accelerated and normalized, and collagen deposition is increased.

It was long believed that extrinsic aging — that which results from external offenders — was the only thing that could be improved through topical intervention, while intrinsic aging —which happens due to genetics and the passage of time — seemed inevitable. It is now believed that the use of topical retinoids may have a positive effect on intrinsic aging.2 The visible benefits of retinol use can be increased either by using a higher percentage product, more frequent usage or advanced delivery technologies that help the molecule remain stable and penetrate more deeply into the skin. Fortunately, new breakthrough

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card

BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY THE TRUSTED NAME IN SKINCARE LNE & SPA’S Best Product Award Winner!

Bella”Issimo” massage roller for promotional price of $35.00 (retail value $75.00)

This facial massage roller gently stimulates your skin’s blood flow, allows oxygen to the surface, revitalizes sagging facial muscles and relaxes fine lines.

VISIT US IN OCTOBER IN MIAMI BOOTH 101-102 BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC

Toll Free: 888.200.3977

www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com

skin the latest on retinol for estheticians technology now enables retinol to be encapsulated into lipid layers to facilitate the delivery of the molecules and enhance penetration. This system also protects the retinol from oxidation or spoilage and extends a retinol product’s shelf life. When applied, the microcapsules penetrate skin to provide the most positive effects upon delivery. The irritation caused by traditional retinol treatments is thereby avoided while delivering action to the deepest layers of the dermis.

Retinoic Acid Peels The proven benefits of topical retinoid use are undeniable. The downside is that the benefits may take months before they become apparent. These benefits can be seen in weeks, instead of months, when applied in higher percentages in a professional setting.

One early instance of retinoic acid peels was performed by the team of Dr. LC Cuce in a study to test its efficacy in the treatment of melasma.3 It was initially tested on only fair skinned women, but was subsequently tested side-by-side with glycolic acid in darker skinned individuals by Dr. N Khunger. 4 The results were quite positive and identified the peels as a good choice for the treatment of aging, discoloration and acne.

Retinol peels are appropriate for a wide variety of clients. They are typically a creamy consistency and can be applied alone or as part of a combination treatment. An important warning about retinol for estheticians to communicate to clients is that dramatic peeling can be experienced several days after their treatment.

In some individuals, the peeling can last for 10 to 14 days. Because of the potentially long peeling period, these peels are typically performed less frequently than a liquid chemical peel.

The frequency of treatment is customized to each client’s needs, as some people may peel less profusely than others. Those who peel

24

October2017

LNEonline.com

the proven benefits of topical retinoid use are undeniable less frequently could have an additional treatment after three to four weeks as needed. During the posttreatment peeling process, advise clients to be vigilant about keeping skin well hydrated and protected from sun exposure.

product. You may also want to offer a hydrating tinted-moisturizer with SPF, as most foundations will accentuate flaking skin. Be confident in knowing that retinol treatment makes a difference, and your clients will be too!  Re f e r ences

Retinol is a necessary and highly effective molecule for overall healthy skin. It is an excellent option to use as part of a daily care regimen or professionally applied for aging, acne and pigmentary disorders. Choosing the right formula for each client’s skin ensures maximum results with minimal (if any) side effects.

At-Home Daily Use

1. Kligman et al. (1969). Topical Vitamin A acid in acne vulgaris. Arch Dermatol, 99, 469-476.

2. Mukherjee et al. (2006). Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

(Note: this one is missing the name of the journal) 3. Cuce, LC, Bertino, MC, Scattone, L, & Birkenhauer, MC (2001). Tretinoin peeling. Dermatol Surg. 2001, 25, 12–4.

4. Khunger, N, Sarkar, R, & Jain, RK.

Although topical retinoids can bring about profound changes in the skin of both acne and mature skin clients, many clients fall off the “retinol bandwagon” because they cannot tolerate the flaking, dryness and irritation.

This is where the esthetician must play their part as an educator. When starting use of topical retinoids, the skin must undergo a phase of retinization.

Explain to your clients that their skin must get used to the ingredient, and this phase of peeling and dryness will subside, but only with continued daily use. If a client uses the retinol until they have visible peeling, stops until the peeling subsides, then continues use again, the skin will never adjust to the retinol and the treatment will be ineffective. Instruct your clients to apply moisturizer as needed, either before or after application of the retinol

(2004). Tretinoin peels versus glycolic acid peels in the treatment of melasma in dark-skinned patients. Dermatol Surg., 30, 756–760.

Ivana S. Veljkovic, Ph.D., serves as the Vice President of Research & Development for PCA Skin, driving product innovation and testing for the company. Dr. Veljkovic participates in educational seminars, speaks globally at medical and esthetic meetings and writes articles for industry journals. Dr. Veljkovic is a highly regarded chemist who graduated from University of Belgrade, Serbia, and completed doctoral studies in synthetic organic chemistry at Freie Universität Berlin, Germany. At PCA Skin, she has created efficient and cosmetically elegant products.

02

Next generation in microneedling technology

ADVANTAGES

· Painless no numbing cream needed · Reduced treatment times · Adjustable deep & speed · Disposable titanium needles/ Prevent cross contamination · Personalized treatments & wide range of consumables Visit us at the ICES, Miami FL, Oct. 22 & 23, 2017. Hyatt Regency Hotel Miami & James L. Knight Center - Booth #212/214

www.medidermausa.com · contact@sesderma.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #319 on reader service card

Pink So Chic!

This Intense [Pink So Chic] Pure Serum from MySpa USA is a super cleansing tonic that can be used every day! Enriched with active ingredients from fruits, including blueberry, it gently cleanses, exfoliates and mattifies the skin for immediate radiance and smoothing! Apply the tonic to the face and neck with a cotton swab and gently dry.

239.699.5583 myspausa.com

Moisturizing Mask

Bio France Lab's Collagen & Rose Hip Stimulating Algae Peel Off Mask is perfect for assisting in the healing of wounds while increasing the body's immune function. This deep moisturizing mask contains hydrolyzed collagen and martini oil to stimulate collagen synthesis. The composition of this mask is extremely gentle and leaves a smooth, slightly moist film on the skin. Great for reducing the appearance of pores and is rich in vitamins and nutrients!

323.846.5933 biofrancelab.com

Skin

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

Rapid Diffusion

This H2 Rapid Diffusion Therapy Cream from Hale Cosmeceuticals has harnessed skin health by boosting properties of hydrogen. Its formula releases hydrogen that penetrates to the subdermal level of skin, fighting oxidative damage and repairing skin to reverse the signs of aging! This cloud cream leaves the face revived, rejuvenated and refreshed!

800.951.7005 halecosmeceuticals.com

Ginger, Please!

Nourish and PAMPER skin with this lightweight, non-greasy, high-performance moisturizing Luxury Skin Cream from Lady Burd! Plump, smooth, hydrate and protect your client's skin as you reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles using argireline - a breakthrough multi-purpose ingredient! This product is ideal for clients hoping to reduce signs of aging.

800.345.3448 ladyburd.com

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 26

October2017

LNEonline.com

28

October2017

LNEonline.com

Carrier

Oils

The New Role of Carrier Oils in Skin Care

by Mariska M. Nicholson Carrier oils are acquired from the fatty portion of a plant, typically the seeds, kernels or nuts, and are best known for their ability to dilute essential oils before applying them to the skin. Once applied to skin, these oils “carry” the essential oils and other topical treatments into the skin, hence the name “carrier oil.”

Although carrier oils are traditionally known for their ability to deliver essential oils to the skin, it doesn’t stop there! The chemical composition of these oils allows them to be used in combination with other more potent topicals. These topical agents, such as retinol, vitamin B5 and hyaluronic acid “piggyback” the carrier oils, and their beneficial properties are delivered deep into the skin. Because these oils are similar in composition to the skin’s own sebum, they are absorbed naturally into the skin. Remember, oil attracts oil! Use your client’s natural delivery system to make your treatments more effective.

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

29

GUIDE: OILS - The new obsession

Here are 6 carrier oils you should add to facial treatments for any skin type by combining them with active ingredients: OLIVE OIL Olive oil is extremely versatile and has exceptional emollient properties. Due to its origin, it is good for those allergic to nuts and seeds. Olive oil is also a powerhouse of antioxidants, including vitamin E, carotenoids, and phenolic compounds. Olive oil also contains high amounts of oleic acid.

Because of the low comedogenic level of olive oil, it can be used on all skin types, from extremely dry to acne prone. Olive oil is very close to the skin’s natural sebum, therefore it absorbs easily into the skin, while drawing in moisture and creating a protective barrier.

This attribute makes it a great choice to “piggy back” serums deep into the lipid layer when applied after the oil.

Star Combination: Using a vitmain B5 serum after a cleansing oil made with olive oil is an effective and natural acne fighting combination.

The oils left on the skin will help pull the serum into the lipid layer.

Contraindications: Do not apply olive oil on anyone allergic to olives. There is also heightened risk of allergic reaction or sensitivity in those with asthma, atopic dermatitis & hay fever.

ROSE HIP SEED OIL Rose hip seed oil is well known for its ability to treat dry, dehydrated and damaged skin. It is high in essential fatty acids and antioxidants like vitamin C, and has a therapeutic concentration of vitamin A. This makes rose hip seed oil ideal for treating wrinkles and slowing the aging process, while targeting 30

October2017

LNEonline.com

problems such as scarring, discoloration and skin damage from environmental factors like pollution & UV rays.

The high concentrations of alpha-linolenic acid found in rose hip seed oil make it an effective carrier for natural skin treatments and anti-aging blends.

It is ideal for treating irritated, inflamed skin such as psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis. It also aids in reducing the appearance of scars, stretch marks and blemishes.

Star Combination: Rose hip seed oil has a high concentration of vitamin A, so pairing it with a topical retinol serum will boost cell turnover and skin renewal.

Contraindications: The use of rose hip seed oil can irritate skin or cause reaction when applied directly to the skin, so be sure to dilute with other oils or ingredients.

High concentrations of vitamin C in rose hip seed oil can also cause irritation, and those with atopy may experience

hypersensitivity.

AVOCADO OIL Avocado oil’s nutrient and antioxidant rich properties include vitamins A, B, D and E, high levels of essential fatty acids, chlorophyll, lecithin and potassium, which boost collagen production in the skin and fade age spots. It also contains high concentrations of palmitoleic acid, a fatty acid already present in the skin. When applied to the skin, avocado oil is easily recognized and absorbed deep into the skin’s layers.

The fatty acids found in avocado oil are natural anti-inflammatories as well, making it good for more sensitive skin.

Avocado oil is on the thicker side, so combining it with lighter oils, such as sweet almond oil, will create an oil blend ideal for massage. It is also excellent for sensitive, dry and mature skin, as well as eczema, psoriasis and other similar conditions. It is a good ingredient to use in blends focused on repairing damaged tissue.

GUIDE: OILS - The new obsession

Star Combination:

Star Combination:

Star Combination:

To boost the emollient and moisturizing effects of avocado oil, pair it with a vitamin E serum.

Sweet almond oil is a great carrier oil for hyaluronic acid, which is able to hold 1000x its weight in water. The hyaluronic acid combined with the sweet almond oil will lock and load the skin with hydration.

Vitamin C serum has been touted as the daytime free radical fighting serum, but using a vitamin C serum paired with sunflower seed oil can help repair postsun damage.

Contraindications: Using avocado oil is not recommended for those with allergies to avocado. A skin patch test is recommended for individuals with a latex allergy, as crosssensitivity has been found.

SWEET ALMOND OIL Sweet almond oil is best for dry, sensitive or irritated skin. Its properties help soften, moisturize and revitalize skin with its high levels of monounsaturated fats, minerals and vitamins A, B and E. This naturally light oil is wonderful for blending with thicker oils like castor and coconut oil to penetrate deeply into the skin. The vitamin E also promotes the regeneration of skin cells, and its emollient properties help improve complexion and skin tone, while relieving inflammation and irritation.

Sweet almond oil makes a great addition to masks and serums due to its ability to quickly absorb into skin without leaving it oily. It is popularly used for massage, and is even used on babies due to its hypoallergenic properties and easy absorption into the skin.

Contraindications: Contraindications: This oil is not to be used on those with almond or other tree nut allergies.

SUNFLOWER SEED OIL Rich in vitamins A, D and E, sunflower seed oil absorbs deeply into the skin, and its highly nourishing and conditioning properties make it great for dry, weathered and dehydrated skin. It is high in vitamin E, an antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals, keeping them from destroying and damaging healthy cells. In addition, sunflower seed oil contains powerful skin cell regenerating properties while softening wrinkles and preventing premature aging.

Safe for use on the face and body, it is popular for massages and facial treatments.

Sunflower seed oil is one of the most moisturizing of the carrier oils, and is great for use on mature, delicate or dry skin.

Do not use this oil if an allergy or hypersensitivity to sunflower seeds or other members of the Asteraceae family is present.

HEMP SEED OIL Hemp seed oil is ideal for all skin types and contains rich concentrations of skin benefitting linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids. It is a light oil with a non-greasy texture that assists with skin cell regeneration, as well as premature aging.

Benefits of this oil include its antiinflammatory properties and delivery of natural antioxidants to the skin, while promoting healing. It is also great to use in preventing blemishes and premature aging. Hemp seed oil is also an analgesic, or pain reliever, so it is a good option for treating muscle and joint pain, especially combined with other analgesic essential oils such as lavender and peppermint.

Star Combination: For a gentle, yet effective acne treatment, use a salicylic acid based serum with hemp seed oil to assist in exfoliation and cell turn over, while feeding the skin with fatty acids.

Contraindications: Do not use this oil if a sensitivity to hemp seed or hemp related allergies exist.

Mariska M. Nicholson is the founder of Olive + M, based out of Austin, Texas. Olive + M is an all natural, olive oil based skin care line designed to protect, hydrate and repair skin of all ages and types. Mariska started Olive + M out of a desire to share her passion and knowledge about oil’s amazing benefits for the skin.

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

31

32

October2017

LNEonline.com

How to Select

Carrier

Oils An esthetician’s complete guide to select carrier oils

by Judith Bourgeois

Every product that is applied topically eventually finds its way into the body. This is why it is so important to select carrier oils of the absolute best quality when stocking your treatment rooms and retail shelves.

Understanding how to select carrier oils begins with understanding how they are made. Traditionally, oils were all pressed locally and treated like any other perishable item - bought fresh and in small quantities. However, in an effort to increase shelf life and cut down on production costs, different refining methods have been developed over time.

Unfortunately, some of these newer methods have detrimental impacts on the quality and integrity of carrier oils. It is important to understand each of these methods and be aware of exactly how they influence an oil’s overall quality and health benefits, beginning with the two basic classifications of oils - refined and unrefined.

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

33

GUIDE: OILS - The new obsession

REFINED OILS

Bleaching

The process of refining oils can be extensive and involves the addition of various chemicals to extract the oil from the plant. These chemicals must then be removed through several physical and chemical processes. However, some residue can be left behind. These refining processes include solvent extraction, bleaching and deodorizing:

The bleaching step removes the color pigments (chlorophyll and beta-carotene), aromatic substances and remaining soap. The increased temperature during this process drastically reduces the fatty acid content and creates toxic peroxides.

Solvent Extraction

The aromatic oils and more free fatty acids are removed at very high temperatures with the use of steam distillation under pressure and without air. Peroxides from the previous step, along with some pesticides and toxic residues are removed. However, some vitamin E is also removed in this step.

The fatty acids found naturally in the oils are now completely altered.

To begin, caustic soda and agitation is used to remove free fatty acids, phospholipids, protein-like substances and minerals. The caustic soda binds with the fatty acids and becomes soap, which dissolves in the water part of the mixture. At this point the oil still has its color pigments.

34

October2017

LNEonline.com

Deodorizing

These refining steps take place at very high temperatures. For example, deodorization takes place for 30-60 minutes at 464 -518 degrees Fahrenheit. Note that these refined oils can still technically be labeled as “cold pressed� because no external heat was applied during the pressing process, but rather was used afterwards.

Hydrogenation is yet another refinement process where hydrogen is used to makes an oil thicker and purposefully creates trans-fatty acids because they have a higher melting point. With complete hydrogenation, the oil has no more essential fatty acid activity, is inert, and won’t spoil. Partially hydrogenated oils, on the other hand, have a certain amount of altered constituents that are unstable and remain a cause for concern.

GUIDE: OILS - The new obsession Cold Pressed

not all expeller pressed oils are cold pressed The Effect Oils that have undergone these refining processes are now odorless and look the same from one to another. They are nutritionally deficient, as the lecithin, carotene, vitamin E, essential minerals and other vital substances have been stripped from the oil.

In nature, vitamin E and other antioxidants are naturally present in the oils to prevent them from being destroyed by light and oxygen and becoming immediately rancid. They remain in the oil when pressed, but are destroyed when the oil is refined. Often, synthetic antioxidants will be added to replace the natural ones lost during the refining process, such as beta-carotene and vitamin E.

Cold pressed simply means that the expelling process is conducted in a temperature controlled setting. This process is mainly used for oils that are more sensitive to heat, such as olive oil. Cold pressing lessens the effect of heat caused by friction, and the oil is never heated above 120 degrees Fahrenheit. It is important to note that while all cold pressed oils are expeller pressed, not all expeller pressed oils are cold pressed, due to the lack of climate control.

SOURCING Producing quality oil that has maintained its nutritional integrity takes time, commitment and can be expensive. Prices will vary, but you will usually see similar shifts in pricing structures between reputable vendors for specific oils. If an oil is well below the average pricing threshold, it is probably a very low-quality and inferior oil.

Cheaper alternatives are often massproduced and made from less expensive ingredient sources. They are oftentimes heavily farmed, using chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Non-GMO is important to look into when you select carrier oils, especially if purchasing ones that come from a food substance known to be genetically modified, such as soy or corn. An organic oil, of course, is best when available and ensures that no pesticides or GMO’s have been used.

Remember to look beyond the certification and research a company’s farming practices; sometimes, organic methods can be implemented even when though the oil is not certified as such. Organic certification can be quite costly for smaller operations, so even some non-organic products can be very worthwhile. If the oil’s integrity has been preserved and even better, infused with herbs and essential oils, the final product is a highly effective and therapeutic oil.

UNREFINED OILS To select carrier oils of the best quality, choose unrefined oils that have been minimally altered. They retain their nutrient dense, healing properties and have shorter shelf lives. The main types of unrefined oils are expeller pressed and cold pressed: Expeller Pressed Expeller pressed oils are extracted using a mechanical press that squeezes the oil from the seeds, fruits or grains of the plant. Unlike solvent extraction, the chemical properties and nutrient contents of the oil are not altered. Some heat is generated due to the friction created during the expelling process, however it is generally not high enough to alter the oil.

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

35

GUIDE: OILS - The new obsession

SHELF LIFE Oils react to light and oxygen so they are best kept in a cool, dark place with lids closed tightly. Make a habit of wiping the oil off the neck of the bottle after pouring to avoid rancidity where it might accumulate. Glass containers are always ideal because of their nonreactive nature, but may not always be practical when purchasing in larger quantities. Large quantities usually come in metal drums or plastic containers. If they come in plastic containers, look for non-reactive or BPA-free alternatives.

To determine how much oil to purchase safely, it is good to take a look at the chemical composition when you select carrier oils for your practice. Every oil has a different fatty acid composition. Oils that are rich in unsaturated fatty acids are nutritionally superior and have a tendency to spoil faster.

On the other hand, oils that contain mostly saturated fatty acids will be more

36

October2017

LNEonline.com

stable and will take a longer time to spoil. Sunflower or sesame oils, for example, are higher in essential fatty acids compared to almond, olive, coconut or macadamia oils. In terms of shelf life, that would mean that sunflower or sesame oils could keep for up to a year unopened and would be best used within two to three months after opening. However, olive oil could keep for up to two years unopened and would be best used within nine months after opening. Shelf life for oil blends (massage oils) may be naturally longer if vitamin E and/or essential oils are present.

If you are looking to select carrier oils with an Ayurvedic perspective (a 5000 year-old system of healing based on 3 Doshas) to bring more balance to one’s constitution, you will also have to consider additional factors such as warming or cooling qualities, grounding or lightness of the oil, etc. A Vata person, for example, will need unctuous, heavy, warming, moisturizing oils

to help ground them, such as macadamia, avocado, castor, hemp seed and borage. Kapha people are at the other end of the spectrum, with their more earthy nature, and will need lighter oils such as jojoba, hazelnut, kukui, and grapeseed. Pitta people straddle the middle and make good use of almond oil, sunflower oil, or coconut oil, which are cooling to their fiery nature. Oils such as sesame and almond are good for all of the Doshas.

When it comes to your client’s health and well-being, it is always best to select carrier oils that are nutrientdense, unaltered, natural products made with a holistic approach.

Judith Bourgeois is an Ayurvedic technician and educator for Shankara, an all natural line of facial and body products based on Ayurvedic wisdom and advanced science.

She has been developing spa treatments and providing product education for Shankara for more than 12 years.

“

Celluma light therapy offers the precision and efficacy that our guests at the Four Seasons Spa Wailea have come to expect... With integrated blue, red and infrared light therapy, we are able to confidently treat skin concerns like acne, rosacea, sun damage, loss of elasticity in the skin as well as post injection/contouring bruising. The blue light kills bacteria, while the red light stimulates the fibroblast that strengthen and tone the skin. The infra-red light penetrates deeper addressing bruising, inflammation and pain in joints and muscles.

Both our aestheticians and massage therapists are thrilled to implement Celluma light therapy because they are confident that our guest will feel and see the difference.

”

– Pat Makozak - Four Seasons Senior Spa Director for the Americas See Celluma at the following Shows: CCR Expo London Stand #C26, Oct 5-6 Face & Body Atlanta Booth #405, Oct 8-9 ISPA Las Vegas Booth #201, Oct 16-18 ICES Miami Booth #104, Oct 22-23

(714) 978-0080 • www.biophotas.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #295 on reader service card

by

38

October2017

LNEonline.com

Warm Oil Spa Treatments FIVE new twists to a spa staple

by Carrie Borzillo

As the air cools off, it's a great time to think of new ways to warm up your guests this Fall. While the use of warm or hot oil in body treatments is simply a staple of the spa industry, it's time to think outside the essential oil bottle for a wider variety of ways to grease your clients up this season. From nasal passages to your invisible third eye, here are five fun warm oil treatments to add to your treatment menu.

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

39

GUIDE: OILS - The new obsession

your way on earth, may you be lit from within by the infinite one to find your true path and walk it with strength and wisdom... Namaste."

Nasya Oil Treatment

Ajna

Peace of Mind Blessing

The third eye chakra (or ajna) is the focal point of this unique Ajna: Peace of Mind Blessing (100 minutes, $235) treatment at Spa Anjali at the Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa at Beaver Creek Mountain in Avon, Colo. This chakra is located in the center of the forehead and is responsible for spiritual insight, perception, intuition, imagination, concentration, and, like its namesake — peace of mind.

The Ajna begins with a Himalayan footbath to balance the negative and positive ions the body receives from electrical and cellular devices. Next comes a four-part breathing pranayama (the Hindu word for breath work) to restore relaxation, followed by the application of jasmine to anoint the third eye and a 20-minute warm bath in Himalayan salt.

40

October2017

LNEonline.com

Once back on the table, the therapist pours warm sunflower oil over each chakra down the spine for a massage.

The treatment concludes with an extensive facial massage working marma points and energy channels to calm the mind, followed by the shirodhara and pouring of the sacred warm oil over the third eye.

"The main purpose of the treatment is to relax the body and rejuvenate the spirit,” says spa director Ingrid Middaugh. “We use a shirodhara (an Ayurvedic vessel) to pour the oil over the client in a slow steady flow. It stimulates the pituitary gland and helps to awaken the body's intuitive knowledge, mental clarity, and comprehension. This practice is profoundly relaxing, nourishing, and meditative."

The blessing part of the warm oil treatment includes this healing mantra: "As the sun and the moon light

Nasya is a type of Panchakarma warm oil treatment for cleansing through the nasal cavity used in Ayurvedic medicine.

It not only rehydrates the nose, protects the nasal tissues, and aids in the flow of the natural fluids in the head and neck region, but it can also improve vision, hearing, sense of taste, vocal tonality, mental clarity and more.

The base oil used in the Nasya Oil Treatment (30 minutes, $75) at Ambika's Ayurveda in Chico, Calif., features a mix of organic sesame oil with organic herbs cooked into sesame oil for 10 hours, including calamas, tulsi, brahmi and eucalyptus.

"Nasya oil is the one missing link in health in this current age of electronics and over stimulation of the sensory organs (eyes, nose, hearing),” says owner and clinical Ayurvedic specialist Jennifer Andrews. “In the current electronic age, these organs tend to become very dry from over use and overstimulation."

The treatment is administered with the client sitting in a chair with a towel over their head breathing in a bowl of Ayurveda herbs steeped in boiled water for five minutes. The client then lies on the massage table with his/her head titled back as the heated nasya oil is administered into each nostril through a dropper. The client remains lying down with the head back slightly for 15 minutes with the eyes are covered with a dry washcloth.

"While the client is resting, a foot massage can be given, as in Ayurveda it is said that the eyes and the feet are interconnected,” adds Andrews. “After 15 minutes, the head is adjusted to be flat and a face and neck massage ends the session."

GUIDE: OILS - The new obsession

Agave Nectar Hot Oil Scalp Massage One of the most popular massage enhancements at Bella Santé Spa, which has three locations in the Boston area, is its Agave Nectar Hot Oil Scalp Massage (approximately six to seven minutes, $15).

Agave nectar oil is a lightweight, but powerful, hydrating and anti-aging oil good for all hair types. "It's been used for thousands of years, originating in Mexico and regions of South America,” explains corporate director of massage therapy Jessica O'Brien, who says their farm-fresh oil is combined with barley, sandalwood, and phellodendron amurense bark.

“It's known to have anti-inflammatory and immune system-boosting properties. Agave plant sugars lock moisture inside the hair, building strength, resiliency, elasticity, and improving manageability and color vibrancy."

This warm oil treatment begins with agave nectar oil being carefully applied to the scalp. The therapist performs a

rhythmic and deeply relaxing scalp massage, ending with a warm towel head wrap that allows the oil to soak into the scalp while the therapist continues with the rest of the full body massage.

"The oil is warmed for better scalp penetration,” adds O'Brien. “Also, warmed oil gives a sense of comfort and allows for a deeper sense of relaxation. Not only is scalp massage proven to relax physical stress, research shows that it can also lower blood pressure, reduce levels of stress hormones, and even slow heart rate. Scalp massage also stimulates circulation, increasing blood flow, bringing with it oxygen and hair nourishing nutrients, thus promote stronger and healthier hair growth."

Dosha Balancing In Ayurvedic medicine there are three body types called doshas — Vata for air, Pitta for fire, and Kapha for water and earth. The Dosha Balancing treatment (50 minutes, $149) at âme Spa & Wellness Collective at Turnberry Isle Miami in Florida is designed to pro-

mote health and harmony in the body, assist in skin cell rejuvenation, improve circulation, release energy blockages and dissolve stress.

Three different dosha-specific oils are prepared in traditional Ayurvedic methods and can be warmed without losing the potent healing properties of the herbs. The warm oil treatment includes an herbal oil massage, which is a classic Ayurvedic treatment to aid in detoxification and to nourish the nervous system. The specific massage oil used in each treatment is carefully selected based on the client's constitutional needs and elemental make-up.

"Vata uses almond oil, sesame oil, brahmi, ashwaganda, shatavari, lemon and geranium, which calms the nervous system, warms the body, and nourishes and hydrates the skin,” explains spa director Tammy Pahel. “Pitta uses nagarmotta, vetiver, chamomile, and rose, which calms the mind, soothes the skin and cools fiery temperatures. And, Kapha uses ashwagandha, lavender, rosemary, eucalyptus, and bergamot, which stimulates, energizes, and helps to decongest, purify and detoxify."

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

41

GUIDE: OILS - The new obsession

Pearl & Diamond Warm Oil Signature

warmed oil gives a sense of comfort

42

October2017

LNEonline.com

The Pearl & Diamond Warm Oil Signature manicure (45 minutes, $55) and pedicure (55 minutes, $80) at The Amethyst Spa at The Restoration in Charleston, S.C., offers a pearl diamond enzyme exfoliation with an extended warm oil massage and a foot wrap that is charged with amethyst, a stone known for re-balancing, clarity and healing.

The spa's oil of choice for this treatment is organic meadowfoam seed oil combined with concentrated oils that contain jasmine grand, neroli, clary sage, sweet orange, gaba and more.

"The warmth of the oil helps provide relaxation for the muscles as well as the nervous system," notes spa director Denialle LePiors.

The pearl diamond exfoliator contains crushed and micro-pearl for exfoliation, brightening, and detoxification and enzymes and natural fruit acids

for a gentle enzymatic and chemical exfoliation coupled with a gemstone blend including diamonds, rubies, citrine, amethyst and sapphire for energy, resonance and harmony within the skin.

"The result is soft, clear, glowing and youthful skin," says LePiors. "We use an amethyst booster that's been programmed with an amethyst frequency through a subatomic generator. The generator captures the energetic blue print of the amethyst stone, which is then programed into an elixir which we use for hot towels as the foot bath and amethyst reflexology massage."

Carrie Borzillo is an awardwinning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com.

For Ingrown Hairs, Razor Bumps, and Inflammation

1 (800) 961-0041

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #330 on reader service card

Your Bikini Line is Our Care!â„¢

1 2

3

4

5

6

7

9

8

44

October2017

LNEonline.com

10

A golden treasure!

13 14

12

15

11

16

19 17

20

21

22

18

1. Bellabaci, Stress No More Genie • bellabaci.com 2. Matis Paris, Comfort Cleansing Oil • matis-paris.fr 3. Kerstin Florian, Clarifying Lavender Facial Oil • kerstinflorian.com 4. iLike Organic Skin Care, Q10 Serum • szepelet.com 5. Thalgo, Sacred Oil • thalgo.com 6. Glo Skin Beauty, Pre-Cleanse Essential Cleansing Oil • gloskinbeauty.com 7. Bio France Lab, Mature Skin Rose Blend Oil • biofrancelab.com 8. Diamond Way Ayurveda, Spontaneous Joy Face Oil • diamondwayayurveda.com 9. Olivia’s Boudoir, Rose Petals Massage Oil oliviasboudoir.com 10. PurErb, Purity Renewing Facial Oil • purerbskincare.com

11. La Ishá, Breast SOS • la-isha.com 12. Luzern Laboratories, Rehydrate Oil • luzernlabs.com 13. Cures by Avancé, Marine Oil Body Glow • curesbyavance.com 14. Farmhouse Fresh, Blushing Agave Body Oil • farmhousefreshgoods.com 15. Albertini International, Pure Love All Natural Olive Oil Cleanser • albertiniinternational.com 16. Sea Chi Organics, Jasmine Sambac Lovers Body Oil • seachi.com 17. Body Bliss Native Botanicals, Prickly Pear Age Defense Facial Treatment Oil • bodybliss.com 18. Elaa, Bee Beauty Facial Oil • elaaskincare.com 19. Lira Clinical, MYSTIQ, illuminating Beauty Oil with PSC • liraclinical.com 20. Susan Ciminelli, Hydrating Formula with Lavender, Chamomile & Geranium • susanciminelli.com 21. Sweetsation Therapy, Precious Age Defying Facial Oil • sweetsationtherapy.com 22. Cinq Mōndes, Precious Elixir • cinqmondes.com O LNEonline.com ctober2017 45

The LATEST in oils...

Hydrate, cleanse, perfect, soothe, enhance, compliment... We shopped it all!!!

3 2

4

1

6

5

8

7 11 9 10

46

October2017

LNEonline.com

14 12 13

15

16

17

18

19

20

1. Eve Taylor, Soothing No1 Aromatic Serum • eve-taylor.com 2. Babor Cosmetics, Relaxing Lavender Mint Calming Shower Oil & Bath • babor.com 3. Safflower Organics, Tea Tree Facial Cleanser • dayspabodybasics.com 4. Sonäge, Vitality Nourishing Facial Oil • sonage.com 5. Bon Vital’, Massage Oil • bonvital.com 6. Anokha Ayurvedics, Vata Facial Oil • anokhaskincare.com 7. Bella Schneider Beauty, Silky Smooth Line Reducing Oil bellaschneiderbeauty.com 8. Repêchage, Essential Oil of Seaweed • repechage.com 9. Balanced Guru, Organic Ageless Facial Serum Mature Skin • balancedguru.com 10. Good Karma Skincare, Rejuvenating Facial Oil • goodkarmaskincare.com 11. Elvis + Elvin, Pure Argan Facial Oil • elvis-elvin.com 12. Eau Thermale Avène, Body Oil • eau-thermale-avene.com

21

13.Phytomer, Beautifying Oil Face, Body, Hair • phytomerusa.com 14. Fake Bake, Coconut Oil Exfoliating Wipes • fakebake.com 15. L.A. Christine California, No3 Berry Face Oil Treatment • lachristine.com 16. GR8SKN, “The Oil” Pre-Cleansing Moisturizing Face & Body Oil • gr8skn.com 17. Olive + M, Body Polish Soften + Moisturize • oliveandm.com 18. M’lis, Nourish Nutrient Oil • mlis.com 19. Environ, A, C & E Oil • environskincare.com 20. Jacq’s Organics, Rose Geranium + Wild Carrot Balancing Face Serum • jacqsorganics.com 21. Marula, Pure Marula Facial Oil • marula.com LNEonline.com O ctober2017 47

The

Salamander

Spa

48

October2017

LNEonline.com

at The Henderson Hotel in Destin, FL with Spa Director April Smith

Top notch managing skills from Director April Smith

SPA OF THE MONTH

by Cristina Beecham

ocated alongside one of America’s highest-rated beaches, the luxurious and coastal-inspired doors of The Salamander Spa at The Henderson Beach & Spa Resort opened last November as one of the finest resorts along Florida’s Gulf Coast. Now led by Spa Director April Smith, this unique, sweeping resort overlooks the city of Destin’s beautiful sugar-white sands and emerald-green waters and beautifully captures the romance of traditional coastal architecture. With a wide variety of treatments and services derived from the Gulf’s crystal waters, untouched dunes and indigenous plants, The Salamander Spa is also uniquely designed to offer comfortable guest rooms and spa amenities that convey the sounds and smells of the sun-kissed region.

SIGNATURE TREATMENT Guided by dedicated and experienced spa professionals, The Salamander Spa takes a one-of-a kind, holistic approach to their treatment menu by using integrative treatments and resultsdriven therapies. The most popular treatment is the Mineral Aromatherapy Massage ($150/60 minutes, $195/90 minutes), which uses the spa’s mineral wellness lotion that contains magnesium, mineral salts, sodium, potassium, calcium, iron, lithium, silver and zinc. The benefits of this lotion include increased energy levels, circulation, muscle function and improved overall well-being. This treatment also allows clients to intuitively select an aromatherapy oil to ac-

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

49

company their massage. Depending on what the client is attracted to, they can choose a neroli oil, which uplifts their mood while deeply nourishing and softening the skin; a lavender oil, which calms and balances the skin; or a ginger oil, which promotes circulation, warms up the body and calms muscle spasms, strains and cramps. Clients who indulge in this treatment take home a mineral wellness soak that has a total of 60 minerals and trace elements to nourish and detoxify the body with magnesium and calcium.

MARKETING The spa has reported a large increase in loyal relationships within their community clientele since first offering their Loved Locals program. Spa Director April Smith states, “We have a very strong local clientele, which is why we have developed a Loved Locals program that encourages locals to visit us to experience different seasonal offerings, specials and products packaged especially to them.” The Loved Locals program provides various discounts on food and beverage, spa treatments and room reservations at the hotel.

The only requirements for the Loved 50

October2017

LNEonline.com

Locals membership include a Florida ID and an address in one of the local counties. The membership card is then delivered in the mail and is required to be shown each time a client visits the resort.

“We are also very lucky to work with an amazing marketing team that is not afraid to try new things,” Smith states.

The spa recently ran an Instagram campaign including a hashtag contest. Each Friday, the spa selected one guest who posted a great photo of their experience at the spa. Smith and the marketing team voted on the most unique entry and the prizes included anything from dinner at the hotel, a free stay at the hotel, or a free spa treatment.

The marketing team also reposted the winning picture on the spa’s Instagram account.

TRAINING The Salamander Spa management team thoroughly trains their employees both before and during their time with the spa to ensure a consistently exclusive experience for their clients.

Spa Director April Smith states, “Every morning we meet as a team before our first appointments. We read through

our daily lists of our special guests in the house, special events going on and also our mission and vision statement.” The spa’s team meetings usually last between 10 and 30 minutes. “We also have monthly meetings to focus on marketing ideas, new treatments and services and the bigger picture of the spa. These meetings often include pizza!”

As a relatively new leader for Salamander, Smith held an initial evaluation with each staff member to establish both personal goals and overall goals for the spa. “Not only do I share with my employees exactly what I want to do to make the spa more successful, I also express to them how much they, as my employees, are a huge part of that success,” she explains. Smith plans to meet individually with her employees first on a quarterly basis and eventually for annual performance reviews.

To incentivize employees and reward them for a job well done, the spa’s human resources team gives out recognition cards that can be redeemed for anything from a free lunch to a paid day off. Employees earn these recognition cards based on positive guest reviews and TripAdvisor comments.

for their client’s needs. The product line is implemented into the spa once they all agree that the product is beneficial to the spa’s offerings.

To incentivize their clients to purchase their retail products, Salamander employees provide a home care recommendation card to each of their clients after each service. “Most clients come out of their treatments in a relaxed and peaceful mindset, usually not buying a thing,” Smith explains. “This card is a nice and less aggressive way to strongly remind our clients to continue using the products that were applied during their treatment.” Clients also receive a small takeaway sample of the products listed on their home care recommendation card. The tactic has proven effective.

“They usually purchase the products we recommend once their samples run out,” she adds.

SPECIAL EVENTS AND PROMOTIONS “We want to be more than a spa, we want to be a part of educating people on how to live a wellness lifestyle.”

Smith states. The spa plans on hosting a yoga retreat with a nationally recognized instructor to help their guests balance their body, mind, and soul.

Smith has also donated to full moon yoga classes that give to the Emerald Coast Fitness Foundation, which will soon be opening a pool for the community. “It feels good to help out and see the progress of something so needed in the area!”

REVENUE AND RETAIL As Spa Director, April Smith chooses the products that the spa retails by ordering samples of the products and reviewing the quality of them with her staff members, and considers their opinion on whether the product is a suitable fit

Rundown The Salamander Spa at The Henderson Hotel 220 Henderson Resort Way Destin, Fla. 32541 855.741.2777 Launch: November 2016 Size: 10,000 square feet Spa Owner: The Henderson Hotel is owned by Donavant Enterprises and managed by Salamander Hotels and Resorts Spa Director: April Smith Staff to Guest Ratio: 1:3

cated facial rooms and six basic treatment rooms. Ladies and men’s lounges equipped with steam room, experiential shower, whirlpool and luxurious waiting/relaxing area.

Retail Lines: Kerstin Florian

Spa Director Spotlight:

Recently joining The Henderson, A Salamander Beach & Spa Resort, Spa Director April Smith brings more than 20 years of industry experience to her role. She is responsible for overseeing the Salamander Spa at The Henderson, as well as the resort’s recreation department and retail boutique.

Responsibilities include implementation of rate positioning, inventory strategy and identifying market trends using industry resources, in addition to leading the spa, recreation and retail teams within the resort. Smith started her career as a service provider as she worked her way through college. Upon graduation, she expanded her experience by traveling through the U.S. and Caribbean, working in different capacities within the field, from management and trainer to designer and consultant

Clientele Ratio: 70 percent female, 30 percent male. 65 percent non-local, 35 percent local Spa Composition: 70 percent massage/body treatments, 20 percent facials, 10 percent hair and nails Amenities: 11 treatment rooms including one couples room, VIP suite with private balcony and tub, three dedi-

Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

51

52

October2017

LNEonline.com

Wet room techniques in a dry room setting

by Emilia DiRaddo

Body wraps, body scrubs, scalp treatments… all of these popular services are in high demand among spa clients, accounting for a significant portion of any spa’s booked services and revenue. Traditionally, such services have not been considered showerless spa treatments, as they have been largely restricted to spas with facilities such as Vichy showers, wet tables that require drainage, slanted floors and tiled walls. Many spas, of course, do not have the size or budget for such facilities, and hence have traditionally been restricted in their ability to offer these treatments.

Thankfully, such limitations are no longer an obstacle.

With a few simple protocol adjustments, some basic tools and minimal expense, even spas that lack wet room facilities are now able to provide almost any type of treatment.

SHOWERLESS SPA TREATMENT ADJUSTMENTS The following traditional “wet” treatments can be customized into showerless spa treatments in a dry room with minor adjustments to their protocols, explained below.

Variations can be made on these customized protocols to suit preferred techniques of the therapist. Many educational courses and textbooks explain showerless spa treatment protocols in full detail.

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

53

spa showerless treatments

Body Scrub 1. Prep a massage table with a layer of sheets, towels and a plastic wrap, in the order they will be removed. Drape client with towel or sheet (as you proceed through the treatment, you will expose each body part as you are working on it while keeping the rest of the body covered).

2. Begin with a full body dry brushing (optional).

3. Follow this with application of a sugar or cream based scrub or polish on each body part being treated, following manufacturer instructions.

4. Remove product with warm steamed towels. When finished with one side, have client turn over to repeat on the other side.

5. Apply moisturizing lotion to the body.

Body Wrap 1. First, exfoliate the body, following Steps 1-4 of the body scrub protocol.

2. After exfoliation, apply a warm gel-based body mask, and cocoon the client in plastic for approximately 20 minutes.

3. During this time, an add-on treatment can be performed, such as a scalp or facial massage, mani-pedi or even reiki.

4. Unwrap the client one section at a time, and use warm, moist towels to remove product from the body.

5. Massage nutrient-rich moisturizing lotion onto the body.

your hands above their face and have them take several deep breaths to inhale the aroma.

3. Perform a scalp, neck and décolleté massage (and face massage if desired) utilizing the essential oil mixture and other oils selected to benefit hair and skin.

4. Instruct the client to leave the oil on for about 30 minutes and wash the hair out at home with a mild shampoo (skipping conditioner unless absolutely necessary), letting the hair dry naturally.

Any of these showerless spa treatments can be incorporated as add-ons to a standard massage service.

Competence in any modality requires practice. Perfecting wet-room techniques without wet-room equipment is no different. Partner up with a colleague and practice performing these showerless spa treatments on each other before using the techniques on your clients.

Product Selection Many products today are designed to work in either a dry or wet room setting; exfoliators and finishing products are formulated to retain their moisture, so they do not dry out during treatment.

“Many products Scalp Treatment It may seem that a scalp treatment that utilizes oils must naturally require a sink or shower facility, however it can be performed without these facilities with just a few minor adjustments.

54

October2017

LNEonline.com

1. Position the client on a spa table in a supine position with a clean towel under their head.

2. Rub a small amount of a relaxing essential oil blend in your hands. Hold

today are designed to work in either a dry or wet room setting.

”

skinade.com

increased skin hydration and radiance*

This statement has not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

reduction in fine lines and wrinkles* improvements in skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and acne*

The professional choice skinade® is the UK's leading professional skincare drink recommended by professionals.

Engineered for optimal absorption, its innovative formula contains pharmaceutical grade ingredients that are delivered straight to the skin. Combine with treatments or use with a daily skincare routine for better, smoother and younger looking skin.

*based on an independent survey of 282 people drinking skinade® for 100 days

REAL PEOPLE, REAL RESULTS Up to 73.6% increase in collagen density recorded after drinking skinade® for 90 days.

MADE IN THE UK

Available from skincare professionals only.

To find an account, go to skinade.com.

To become an authorised account, please call us on 1-800-SKINADE or email info@skinade.com

Day 0

Day 30

Day 0

Day 30

better skin from within

Day 0

Day 30

Day 0

Day 60

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #325 on reader service card

spa showerless treatments For showerless spa treatments, the key is to utilize products that are easy to remove with a wet towel. Sugar based products may be preferable over salt scrubs for showerless spa treatments, as sugar’s small granules melt away easily when wrapped in a hot towel, which also allows for easier cleanup.

Also, choose products that are easy to wash out of linens used in treatment and avoid ingredients that leave stains, such as mud, so you don’t have to constantly replace sheets and towels.

Don’t make the costly mistake of using too much product in the treatment room, as the skin can only absorb a certain amount of product at a time.

One gallon of scrub should last for approximately 40 showerless spa treatments. Avoid waste by pre-measuring out one ounce of product into a small cup for each treatment.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #133 on reader service card

HC

56

A New Dimension Without a doubt, adding wet-room treatments to a dry room only spa enhances the service menu, offering a wider selection of treatments for clients and an additional revenue stream for the business — a definite win-win!

Judicious product choice and use, good organizational skills and handson workshops are the keys to perfecting your showerless spa treatments and adding another dimension to your practice. After all, client satisfaction has little to do with whether a treatment is done in an actual wet or dry room, but rather how well the treatment is performed.

• Infrared heat lamps and product warmers for pampering enhancement • Plastic for wrap treatments • Wrapping blankets and plastic covers for treatment tables Treatment instruments should be organized and consolidated to control mess and enable the therapist to work efficiently. A mobile spa cart with inserts keeps all supplies organized in one place, and can easily be moved around the treatment table during the service.

Emilia DiRaddo was born into the esthetics industry. Her family’s established esthetics institute in Cuba inspired Emilia’s own leap into the field of esthetics. Specializing in adolescent and adult acne, Emilia is de-

Materials Needed • Pans and bowls of various sizes to accommodate towels, lotions and oils • Body brushes • Towels • A towel warming device

scribed as a “hands on skin detective." She also specializes in micro-current, LED, and oxygen treatments. In 1985, Emilia started her first solo skin care venture in Atlanta, Georgia.

She now resides in South Florida, and is often visited by her loyal Georgia clients.

H2 Rapid Diffusion Therapy Cream •Provides Instant Hydration with Hyaluronic Acid

•Removes Free Radicals with Hydrogen (H2)

•Reduces Inflammation w/ Curcominoids

Call 1-800-951-7005 www.halecosmeceuticals.com October2017

LNEonline.com

TRIPLE ACTION PEPTIDE MASK For All Skin Types Cooling Sheet Mask Infused with Peptides and Pure Seaweed Filtrate

Hydrating + Firming + Brightening = LUMINOUS skin This ready-to-use sheet mask is infused with peptides combined with Seaweed extracts, Aloe, Chrysin, Sweet Almond Seed Extract, and Mirabilis Jalapa to moisturize, help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, giving skin a temporary “lifted ” appearance.

ISO

9001

Professional Skin Care for At-Home Created by Master Esthetician Lydia Sarfati

CERTIFIED COMPANY

www.repechage.com You Tube

1.800.248.SKIN

Pioneers in Seaweed Based Products.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #196 on reader service card

SLIMMING SERUM

This Body Thermo Slimming Serum from Dermotechnology Natural Skin Therapy is YOUR innovative, anti-aging, natural, non-invasive solution for efficient advanced skin care: the actual alternative to surgical facelift and dermal fillers!

Dermotechnology combines Electroporation Biotechnology with seven different micro-currents and frequencies, using bioactive serums exclusivel for safety, efficiency, quality, and respect for the environment.

813.300.7818 dermotechnology.us

Body Shaping Solution

PR Shape by Silhouet Tone is a natural and noninvasive technique to shape the body and release exercise-resistant fat pockets. With both vacuum and rolling massage and ultrasound technology, this duel action body contouring device detoxifies deep subdermal tissues and breaks down and liquefies stubborn fat cells. Fast and effective results! FDA approved.

This award-winning 3-in-1 LED device (FDA cleared)

by BioPhotas was specifically designed to treat acne, wrinkles and pain. Celluma can be used clinically as a powerful stand-alone modality or as a treatment enhancing add-on. This device is CE certified for Dermal Wound Healing and is ideal for use following procedures such as microneedling, microdermabrasion, microcurrent, laser and MUCH more! Perfect for use anywhere on the body.

714.978.0080 biophotas.com

SPA

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

Whole Body Wellness

Freeze Me!

This easy-to-use Venus FREEZE Plus from Venus Concept has advanced safety features for non-invasive skin tightening and wrinkle reduction! Anti-aging made easy! Powered by a combination of multi-polar radio frequency and pulsed electro magnetic fields, treatments are extremely comfortable for clients and are safe for all skin types. Venus FREEZE Plus is the ideal system for anyone looking for break into the medical aesthetic industry!

888.907.0115 venusconcept.com

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 58

October2017

800.552.0418 silhouettone.us

LNEonline.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #280 on reader service card

Miami, FL Oct 22

&

23, 2017

Hyatt Regency & James L. Knight Center

New p

Lineu Retail Conference • Business Conference • Happy Conference Mindfulness Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Hundreds of Leading Exhibitors

Dare

+ Countless Networking Opportunities

SPONSORED BY

LNEonline.com • Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program USA: 305.443.2322

/

FAX: 305.443.1664

SPA STAFF TRAINING Build your dream teaM by boosting your spa staff training

62

October2017

LNEonline.com

by Dori Soukup

One of the biggest challenges most business people encounter is recruiting, hiring and building a high performance team. Finding and keeping talented team members is essential to success! In this article, discover five effective spa staff training principles to help build your team and elevate your performance.

PRINCIPLE 1:

ALWAYS BE RECRUITING Always be on the lookout for talent.

Avoid waiting until you need people to start interviewing, and aim to hire people who already have a position. In the professional sports industry, team recruiters are always scouting for talent. A spa business should follow the same practice. Always be searching for “A Players.� When you wait until you need someone, you end up hiring in a state of desperation, and most likely choose the wrong person.

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

63

business spa staff training

PRINCIPLE 2:

IN-DEPTH INTERVIEW PROCESS Spa staff training starts with the interview. Establish a system for the interview process if you do not already have one in order to avoid faux pas. The most common mistake spa professionals make when hiring is a lack of clarity in regard to expectations. Often, a detailed position description and a commitment agreement are missing.

Both are essential components of a complete hiring system.

Write down all the expectations you have of the employee, and review them in the interview process. For example, if recommending retail products is mandatory, explain this in the interview. If training sessions and team meetings are done on a weekly and monthly basis, let them know up front. Make sure the potential employee understands all other miscellaneous job expectations beyond the service room, such as doing laundry, maintaining inventory, etc.

All expectations should be disclosed, clarified, agreed upon in the interview process, put in writing and signed off on by both you and the new employee.

This contract helps you avoid costly mistakes and assists you in hiring A and B players instead of C and D players.

Always hire slowly. Take your time and make sure everything is crystal clear prior to offering the position. The cost of hiring mistakes and team turnover is enormous.

PRINCIPLE 3:

ORIENTATION Once you have hired the new employee, the goal is to position them for success. This begins with a professional spa staff training orientation. An orientation manual should contain your operating guidelines, organizational structure, culture, policies, procedures and systems.

Also, conduct a mini training seminar or have them sit and watch a video. Post64

October2017

LNEonline.com

orientation, test them to ensure they understand everything that’s required of them. This provides clarity on what it means to be part of your team.

PRINCIPLE 4:

SPA TRAINING MANUALS Nobody is going to come to you completely trained, so it’s essential to have spa staff training manuals to help you train your team. In order for a business to succeed, there must be effective systems in place, and those systems must be trained until they are perfected. As a business consultant, I have the opportunity to speak to many spa owners and directors.

The one thing I notice repeatedly is the lack of spa staff training structure.

Spa leaders must put on the trainer and coach hat often in order to build a dream team and reach new levels of success.

Sports coaching analogies are useful as they have much in common with managing a successful business. Sports teams spend a lot of time training and sharpening their skills. Coaches are always on the floor watching and coaching their teams.

They take time-outs, watch videos, create plays and map-out game strategies. Spa leaders have a team as well, and they need to spend time

coaching and training in order to win.

A key tool to help spa leaders in their coaching is maintaining a specific training manual for each department. These manuals should include systems, strategies, processes, tools, forms, scripts and an approach on how to deliver a great guest experience.

A. Business Training Manual Business training is almost non-existent within the spa industry — a big mistake!

Make sure you have a complete business training manual that addresses the following:  Revenue generation (how to increase service and retail revenue)  Marketing (self and cross promoting to increase awareness)  Upgrading treatments and promoting series  Guest experience (increasing retention rate)  Promoting spa memberships  Overall revenue generation (increasing revenue per guest)

B. Technical Training Delivering a great experience is essential to your success. Your team must wow your guests with their skills, techniques and knowledge. Technical training should include:

BOOTH

126

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #144 on reader service card

business spa staff training

 Treatment protocols  Product knowledge (services and retail)  Guest experience (rituals)  Contraindications  Ingredients and their benefits  The spa menu  Treatment room upkeep  Inventory management  Monitoring product cost per treatment

C. Client Relations Training – Reception Team Your client relations department can make you or break you.

This training manual should include:  Call management  Check-In  Checkout  Retail sales  Future appointments  Membership sales  Scripts and strategies  Targets and goals

To be successful, these spa staff training manuals should place a big emphasis on both initial and continual training.

Principle 5:

Develop Healthy Training Habits

Training Schedule Develop a training calendar and publish it. Maintaining a training habit is essential to your success. A spa staff training session can be as short as 30 minutes. Schedule training sessions for the same day and time on a regular basis.

Training Agenda Be prepared with an agenda and a purpose in your spa staff training. Portray a professional image to your team and keep them engaged.

Evaluating Your Training Evaluate your training to ensure sessions are productive and obtain valuable feedback.

Assistant Coach As in sports, the head coach has assistant coaches to help them. Who are your assistant spa staff training coaches? If you don’t have any, recruit some key players to assist you.

Setting Goals Establish targets and goals for each department, and break them down into daily goals.

Measuring Results

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #271 on reader service card

Failing to measure results in your spa is the equivalent of getting all the players on the field, starting a game with no objective and then not keeping track of the score. Setting goals and measuring results is imperative to running a successful business.

Success requires planning, self-discipline, motivation, dedication and consistency. Invest in your spa staff training and development, and watch your spa business thrive and produce great results 

66

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management.

She speaks at conventions around the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits.

October2017

LNEonline.com

NE

W

Your Search is complete ™

Introducing the newest advancement in dual purpose creme Versatility has been mastered with new Bon Vital’® Complete, a premium dual purpose creme that flawlessly combines the features of an oil and lotion, so you can transition from high glide to deep tissue with ease. Marula, Olive, Avocado and Jojoba Oils provide intense hydration and skin restoration, while Arnica, Horse Chestnut and Ivy Extracts are known to soothe soreness when combined with massage. It’s time to unlock your complete™ potential.

Try it today for free at bonvital.com/completesample

from IDE GL HIGH

H Y P OA L L E R G E N I C UNSCENTED

bonvital.com Bon Vital’® and complete™ trademarks are property of Performance Health and/or its affiliates and may be registered in the United States and other countries. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. ©2017 — Performance Health. All rights reserved. P09427

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #265 on reader service card

to SUE TIS P DEE

Behind The Spa Door with Darcie Pritchett, owner of Eden Day Spa in Boca Raton, FL

Darcie Pritchett shares her team building tactics

What are your most popular treatments?

True to our concept, the “classic” or traditional spa services such as Swedish massage, deep-cleansing facials, body scrubs and wraps, and manicures and pedicures are consistently requested.

FACILITY

CONCEPT How would you define the concept of your spa?

We opened in 1996 as a classic day spa offering massage, skin care, body treatments, manicures and pedicures.

We have a strong focus on service, relaxation and results, and we have stayed true to those roots!

68

October2017

LNEonline.com

How many treatment rooms do you have?

We have six treatment rooms. Two rooms exclusively for facials and esthetics; two just for massage and body treatments; one where facials, esthetics, massage and body treatments may all be performed, and a private manicure and pedicure room.

What other amenities do you have?

We have a quaint “tea room” where guests can relax, unwind and enjoy complimentary organic antioxidant-rich teas and other snacks and refreshments.

We have a private changing room to touch up after treatments and a lobby area with our concierge desk and spa shop of skin care products, gift items, mineral cosmetics and more.

LEADERSHIP ROLE What daily challenges do you encounter?

Finding the time to work ON the business (versus just IN it) is a big challenge!

We are open seven days a week and 11 hours a day. I am a workaholic!

What takes most of your time every day?

Some days I work just on marketing, others on inventory and ordering. I seek out ways that I can go above and beyond for a guest to make their experience even more special. These details make a difference and make someone’s day a little bit brighter!

TEAM BUILDING How many employees do you have and what are their specialties?

I currently have a team of 32 employees: two management (including myself), seven administrative and reception, 12 licensed massage therapists, six estheticians, three dual-licensed massage therapists and estheticians and three nail technicians.

What is your hiring process?

We start by placing an ad online. In addition to requesting their resume and completed application, I also ask for them to tell us why they would like to work at Eden Day Spa. For the interview, I pay attention to what time they arrive, how they are dressed and

how they introduce themselves. After I complete verbal interviews, I call all prior employers and references. This is such an important step that too many managers skip! I then set up a “demo” interview for them to come in and perform a service. During this time, I pay attention not only to the service they perform, but once again to how they are dressed, if they arrived on time, their attitude and energy, etc. I also make a note of whether or not they stick around to help clean up the room afterwards. These little extras really speak to the kind of person you could be hiring.

How do you evaluate employees?

Everyone is unique in his or her own strengths, so I evaluate them differently based on their strengths and weaknesses. I have individual minimum targets that every employee must achieve in terms of their sales and rebooking and we evaluate these monthly.

How often do you train your staff?

I train my employees daily to make sure they are up to date with the latest knowledge on services, treatments, products, sales, booking techniques and customer service tactics.

RETAIL What are your retail goals?

Always sell more! Each of our departments has a retail quota that they must meet each month in order to get raises, promotions and bonuses. Ultimately, my retail goals include increasing the sales of my massage department, as they are providing the main service that encourages our clients to purchase the most home-care recommendation products. Increasing the sales of my massage team begins with shifting their mindset to see that they aren’t expected to be “sales people.” The focus is on serving our clients. Once they have embraced this new perspec-

tive, it’s about constantly enhancing their education and building their confidence with daily meetings and words of encouragement.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals?

We offer commission on all product sales, with those selling more retail products earning higher commissions.

We also have sales contests from time to time with various prizes ranging from cash incentives to gift cards to free products. Those who consistently reach their retail goals move up in title and compensation rates. Each employee can move up or down by making their sales goals each month.

Where is your retail area?

The lobby. All of our clients come in and out through the lobby, so they must walk through the retail area at least twice during their visit.

MARKETING Tell us about your marketing techniques.

A high-ranking website is the most important thing a business can have in today’s world! Our website is interactive and engaging. For example, potential customers can submit appointment requests, purchase gift certificates, shop for products, read client reviews, look at pictures, watch videos and connect to our social media pages.

We use Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Google Plus as well as stay on top of the review sites like Yelp and Trip Advisor. Additionally, we send out a monthly e-mail with various news and special offers.

EXCEPTIONAL CLIENT CARE How do you keep clients loyal and consistent?

We remember personal information our clients share with us from visit to visit.

We send out thank you cards and acknowledge special occasions like birthdays and anniversaries. I find that this really shows how much we care about them and value their business, and we often see them soon after that!

What incentives do you offer to your clients to be sure they come back again?

Pre-booking incentives, such as a complimentary upgrade or enhancement on their next service is often very effective.

Occasional discounts or complimentary services for loyal clients work great as an incentive as well!

TIPS FOR SPA LEADERS What are the most important lessons you have learned that you could share with others on your career path?

Find time for yourself away from the spa! It’s easy to get so caught up in all that needs to be done in the day-to-day. Scheduling a massage once a week or having a prearranged date night with your bestie can make all the difference between burnout and being your best self!

What advice could you give to someone who would like to manage a spa?

Take workshops or seminars for spa directors, as there really is so much more to the position that most people realize! Also, I would recommend subscribing to as many trade magazines as possible. I read several magazines like LNE every month, and the wealth of knowledge that I gain is priceless and keeps me current in our industry!

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

69

New Educator!

LightStim is thrilled to announce that Liz Contello, licensed esthetician and educator, has officially joined the LightStim education team! Liz, a graduate of NY Institute of Beauty, holds numerous certifications, including Clinical Oncology Esthetics. Possessing a relentless passion for education, join Liz for LED: A Holistic Approach to Skin Fitness on October 22nd at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami!

949.502.4088 lightstim.com

Repêchage in India!

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

Business

Repêchage Professional Skin Care is excited to announce that Mrs. India 2017 and Mrs. North Asia Universe 2017, Kristi Das, is officially a Repêchage Brand Ambassador in India! Under the guidance of JB SkinCare, the exclusive distributer for Repêchage in India, Repêchage serves as Das' skin care and wellness partner as she prepares to compete for the title of Mrs. Universe 2017! In partnering with Repêchage, Das says, "Repêchage makes my skin beautiful and radiant! The seaweed contains vitamins, minerals and trace elements that provide my skin with essential moisture!"

Professional, Personal, Purposeful Attention planner fans! This beautifully curated Planner and Client Scheduling System by Organizing Your Oomph is PERFECT for estheticians of all kinds in the beauty, spa and wellness industry! Organizing Your Oomph is a one-stop-shop that allows YOU to book your appointments, track your client count and income, budget monthly, track social media, grocery lists, notes and so much more!

903.821.5043 organizingyouroomph.com

Nature To Glamour

NEW this October!!! From nature to glamour, Bella Schneider Beauty has just released their Organic Lychee & Coconut Face & Body Polish and their Coconut Soufflé Cream + Olive Oil! Completely NOURISH your client's skin as you smoothly indulge them with these products infused with the scents of the tropics. These products are infused with minerals, fatty acids and enzymes to protect and fully hydrate the skin!

888.200.3977 bellaschneiderbeauty.com

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 70

October2017

800.248.SKIN (7546) repechage.com

LNEonline.com

CORRECT CONCEAL REVEAL Introducing the new BB Conceal Collection by Lira Clinical Three corrective concealers that flawlessly brighten, restore and protect skin with advanced peptides, plant stem cells, niacinamide, turmeric, vitamin C and more.

Clover

Marigold

Rose

www.liraclinical.com | Live Love Lira | 877.440.5472 | info@liraclinical.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #119 on reader service card

72

October2017

LNEonline.com

Aromatherapy for Stress Taking the Edge Off with Aromatherapy for Stress Relief in Your Practice

by Trish Green

Mental health has become a highly discussed aspect of the spa and wellness industry. Susie Ellis, Chairman and CEO of the Global Wellness Institute, made the following comment about the relevance of wellness amidst growing geo-political uncertainties, digital overloads, rising costs of living, demanding jobs, longer commutes and family responsibilities:

“As things become more uncertain, wellness gets more important.�

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

73

o&w aromatherapy for stress

Clients today are more in need of stress relief than ever before, and every spa has an opportunity to stand out from competitors by going the extra mile to incorporate meaningful stress relief solutions in every service. Aromatherapy for stress relief is one way this can be introduced to almost any service. It helps the spa build a unique brand, creates a memorable experience for the guests, and inspires client loyalty and increased referrals.

Customized Aromatherapy for Stress Relief Consider the following advice from Steve Cohen, Vice President of Insights at MMGY Global: "Six in ten millennials would rather spend their money on experiences than material things.

Make your spa experiences memorable. Move your aromatherapy from the backseat menu item to the front seat of your spa experiences with the guest as the driver. Addressing stress relief, insomnia, depression, pain and other physical and mental issues with blends of essential oils capitalizes on what the technology-driven guest wants and what they need.”

Aromatherapy for stress relief can easily be implemented into all spa experiences. Whether essential oils are used in a treatment or a relaxing blend is simply diffused in the treatment room to uplift or relax clients, it creates a deeper level of connection between the spa and its clients and increases their well-being.

Creating the ambiance When clients enter the spa for a relaxing getaway from everyday life, they have certain expectations of the ambiance — soft, relaxing music, eye pleasing décor, cozy treatment rooms and a certain “spa smell.” The luxurious, gentle aroma of essential oils that greets them

74

October2017

LNEonline.com

as they enter the treatment room and lulls them into that wonderful state of calm is essential!

Place a diffusor with a universally pleasing blend in the reception area.

If you are not well- versed in using aromatherapy for stress relief, select something pre-blended, as any single essential oil is not therapeutic for everyone.

Consider the age and gender of your clientele, as different demographics experience different types of stresses in different ways.

Essential oil blends Present the client with a choice of three blends upon check-in and create a sensory journey. A good mix may include something citrus (clean and uplifting), something softly floral (balancing) and something woodsy (relaxing). Allow the client to smell each and choose one for inclusion in their experience.

Consider the following ways to include their blend into a treatment:

While the client fills out the intake form, take their chosen blend to the treatment room and turn on the diffusor. Add a few drops to the unit, turn it on for about 5 -10 minutes before the service and close the door so that your client benefits from the desired effect instantly upon entering the room.

Turn the unit off five minutes into the treatment.

Once the client is on the treatment table, add a few drops of the chosen blend to your finger pads and hold the oil over the client’s nose. Instruct the client to take three deep, relaxing breaths as an opening ritual. Move your fingers to the temples, massage gently and complete by moving up into the scalp. Using the pads of your fingers, apply small circular movements to gently massage the scalp. Finish by running your fingers through the hair before beginning the treatment.

Add a drop of the blend into a few of the products used in the treatment.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card

o&w aromatherapy for stress

Treatments

Hydrolats Hydrolats, otherwise known as hydrosols or floral waters, are an alternative to essential oils to enhance facial therapy. Hydrolats are the by-product of the steam distillation process that produces essential oils, and they retain many of the properties of essential oils. They are versatile, have a softer smell than essential oils, and are therapeutic and safe. Hydrolats can be used in the following ways:

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #140 on reader service card

 Use as a replacement for toner  Spray onto towels or bedding for fragrance  Add a small amount to rinse water for aromatic sponges  Put into steaming device to create aromatic steam (follow manufacturer guidelines)  Add a few drops to customize peel off masks  Spritz onto cotton disks to create eye compresses.

76

October2017

LNEonline.com

Manicure At the manicure or pedicure station, begin by treating your client to an inhalation of essential oil of their choice to add some aromatherapy for stress relief to the service. Add several drops to finger pads, holding them under the client’s nose and instruct them to breathe in deeply. Include a few drops of their chosen essential oil to the cream used for the massage portion of the treatment. Add several drops to the paraffin wax to maximize the benefit.

Foot soak Treat clients to a relaxing, therapeutic, and detoxifying foot soak.

Add essential oils (selected based on treatment objective) to a mix of sea salt and Epsom salt. Offer each client three options for this blend, stored in clear jars so that clients can

see the bright, colorful and inviting salt options. Consider the following suggestions:  A lavender based blend, colored purple or blue (relaxing)  A lemongrass blend, colored yellow (stimulating)  An herbal blend, colored green (detoxifying) Add a couple tablespoons of the appropriate essential oil to the soak. Add the same blend to the cream used for the foot and calf massage, or create an exfoliating sea salt or sugar scrub to complement the pedicure treatment.

Reflexology The reflexologist's application of pressure to feet, hands or ears sends a calming message from the peripheral nerves in these extremities to the cen-

Location

Date

Location

Hartford, Connecticut

Sunday, October 29, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Atlanta, Georgia

Monday, August 21, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Syracuse, New York

Monday, November 6, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Denver, Colorado

Monday, October 16, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Los Angeles, California

Monday, November 13, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Miami, Florida

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #241 on reader service card

Date Monday, August 7, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

business spa staff training

tral nervous system, which signals the body to adjust the tension level. This enhances overall relaxation, brings internal organs and their systems into a state of optimum functioning and increases blood supply, which brings additional oxygen and nutrients to cells and enhances waste removal. It positively affects the circulatory, respiratory, endocrine, immune and neuropeptide systems in the body.

Formal training is required to perform reflexology. A two-day class covers the basics, which is sufficient to add a 15-minute session to any service. It can be performed during a facial while the mask is setting, or offered as an addon to a full body massage, manicure or pedicure. If you wish to offer full service reflexology treatments, more in-depth training is required.

Upper Body Massage

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243 on reader service card

Spas around the world are offering treatments such as Indian Head Massage (Champissage) and various other types of scalp massage. You can customize your own version of these scalp, neck and shoulder treatments using essential oils. Research has shown that when the scalp is stimulated via massage, chemicals such as endorphins and serotonin are released into the body. These chemicals can help improve mood, reduce stress and promote relaxation.

A relaxing massage of the scalp, neck and shoulders is a great addition to any service. It can be a complimentary component of another full service or offered as a 15-minute add-on.

A full Champissage treatment, (which requires specific training) is a stand-alone service option itself, lasting 45 minutes. For any of these upper body and head modalities, don’t forget to add a few drops of a customized essential oil blend to your massage cream or oil.

78

October2017

LNEonline.com

know your client's needs and respond accordingly.

The Ultimate Sensory Spa Ritual For your on-the-go clients who seek complete relaxation in limited time, offer the following 40-minute sensory journey, complete with a customized oil blend:  Start the treatment with deep breathing and inhalation.  Include a massage of the face, neck and shoulders, moving around the body to complete hands and lower arms to the elbows and feet to the knees.  Finish the treatment with a relaxing back massage.  Customize the treatment further by including facial drainage and 15 minute reflexology.

Other body treatments can be customized with essential oils in a similar fashion. For example, a body exfoliation can be customized by adding an oil of the client’s choice to the scrub.

For any type of wellness treatment that you offer, ensure you know your client’s needs and respond accordingly in your offerings. Remember, it is not what YOU prefer to give your client, but rather about your client’s wants and needs, and ensuring that they leave your spa feeling relaxed, rejuvenated and restored in both mind and body.

Trish Green , a CIDESCO Diplomat, has been a teacher for 30 years. She is a doctor of homeopathy, an instructor of aromatherapy and a registered bach flower practitioner. Green is owner of the Balnea Institute in Ontario, an educational facility dedicated to holistic esthetics and complementary therapies.

Real lashes, lips & brows that is.

It’s time for performance cosmetics that really work: enhance your own natural features, including your real lashes, lips, & brows with Grande Cosmetic’s safe & effective formulas. It’s not just makeup: get instant results and lasting, long-term enhancements - backed by clinical studies.

Available at SalonCentric & local distributors www.grandecosmetics.com www.grandewholesale.com 1.877.835.3010 Tag us in your before & afters: @grandecosmetics

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #286 on reader service card

Buriti Oil Skin care secrets from the Amazon

80

October2017

LNEonline.com

The rainforests of the Amazon are brimming with lush greenery. Look to the skies and you will see the towering moriche palm, known as the buriti tree, bearing its red-orange fruit. Often called “the tree of life,” this king of the jungle reaches upwards of 30 meters. The buriti tree’s fruit is commonly made into to juices by the area’s inhabitants and is a long-time staple in their diet. South American natives began harvesting the fruit of the buriti tree long before scientists discovered its amazing nutritional properties.

However, the absolute treasure of the buriti tree is the precious, vibrant buriti oil.

Buriti oil, or Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil is loaded with vital nutrients. Buriti oil is getting noticed by skin care professionals for its profound effects on the skin. For every client wanting the latest in topical synthetics, there is an equally excited holistic client awaiting the newest discovery in organic, pure, and powerful natural ingredients. Buriti oil is the next healthy aging hit in your skin care practice. It’s time to reveal the secrets of the Amazon!

by Aurora Solis

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

81

o&w buriti oil Photo-Protective Properties: Buriti oil is often used by South American natives to prevent sunburns.

Studies have shown that due to the high antioxidant profile of buriti oil, it may have photo-protective properties. This means that buriti oil can help protect skin from aging caused by sun damage. Although it is not recommended to use buriti oil in place of SPF, the oil's antioxidant function can support sunscreen’s important job of protecting the skin from harmful UV rays.

NUTRIENTS IN ABUNDANCE The oil produced from the buriti fruit offers several skin-loving benefits. Buriti oil is an anti-inflammatory, able to reduce irritation from sensitive skin conditions such as eczema. It is also a powerful antioxidant with photo-protective properties. In fact, natives to the home of the buriti tree have been known to smear a paste made from its fruit onto their faces to protect them from the sun.

The fatty-acid and vitamin content of buriti oil suggest paramount hydrating, nourishing and skin protecting capabilities. Here’s why the buriti fruit is the new skin care super fruit: Essential Fatty Acids: Oleic acid makes up 75% of the fat composition of buriti oil. Oleic acid is a rich Omega 9 fatty acid, making this oil intensely hydrating for dry skin types.

Note that oils high in oleic acid can be comedogenic, so buriti oil is best for dry skin, mature or even irritated skin that is not prone to acne breakouts. Buriti oil is also exceptionally high in linoleic acid, the most abundant polyunsaturated fatty acid found naturally in the skin. These essential fatty acids found in buriti oil improve the barrier function of the skin, and protect its natural processes, promoting cell longevity and skin health!

82

October2017

LNEonline.com

Vitamin A: Buriti oil is also packed with betacarotene, the body’s precursor to vitamin A. Studies have shown that this South American fruit has the highest beta-carotene levels known amongst the wide range of fruits found in the Amazon - up to 10x higher in some cases! Once beta-carotene is broken down in the skin, vitamin A stimulates the production of collagen and elastin.

This encourages new cells to approach the surface of the skin. This super-vitamin has also been shown to slow the breakdown of collagen in the skin, and can decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Vitamin E: Buriti oil contains high levels of both α-Tocopherol and β-tocopherol, giving this fruit considerably high levels of vitamin E. Vitamin E is a well-known antioxidant, which helps to neutralize free radicals in the skin and prevent cell damage. Vitamin E is also a key nutrient in treating inflammatory conditions such as eczema, rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis. Buriti oil’s potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capabilities make it an essential component to any holistic, healthy aging or sensitive skin treatment.

Key Skin Benefits of Buriti Oil:  Improves barrier function  Boosts hydration and reduces moisture loss  Promotes cell longevity  Stimulates collagen production  Minimizes wrinkles  Stimulates skin cell production  Neutralizes free radicals  Protects from photo-damage

BRING THE AMAZON TO YOUR SPA When purchasing buriti oil for use in professional treatments, it is important to monitor the quality and source of this organic product. Be sure to choose unrefined buriti oil, as it retains higher amounts of the oil’s beneficial nutrients than its refined and processed counterparts. Always be aware of the source’s farming habits and refinement process.

This bright orange-red oil can be added to facial oils and serum for professional treatment. Because of its antiinflammatory properties, it can be applied after a chemical peel to reduce redness and irritation. After thoroughly removing the peel from the client’s skin with copious amounts of water, buriti oil can be applied on its own, or by adding 3-4 drops to your post-treatment serums and creams.

Take advantage of buriti oil’s antioxidant super powers and give your signature vitamin C facial a boost!

Take your clients on a facial expedi-

Advanced Hydration +

The B3 Hydration Serum takes hydration to another level with high concentration and expertly balanced Sodium Hyaluronate, a skin smoothing peptide, and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3).

- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is shown to reduce fine lines, suppress melanin, helping to prevent age spots, freckles, and hyperpigmentation - UV Protection & Increased Elasticity

“Inspired by Nature, Realized by Science” LUC R È C E P HY SIC IA NS’ AES TH ETI C RES EARCH | 800.626.7546 • www.lu cre ce . co m Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card

o&w buriti oil

tion through the Amazon by adding 2-3 drops of organic, unrefined buriti oil to your antioxidant serum and facial cream. You can also add 8-10 drops of buriti oil to pre-mixed hydrating masks, or a tablespoon of buriti fruit powder (also known as Aguaje powder) to your rubber or clay masks!

Buriti oil is also highly emollient due to its fatty acid content and makes a great addition to massage oils and creams. Add a tablespoon to any body scrub or massage oil for a calming and nourishing antioxidant treatment and give your clients the boost they need, for their whole bodies!

BURITI JUICE FOR INNER BEAUTY Estheticians have the influence to boost the inner and outer beauty of their clients. Offer a signature buri-

ti fruit juice or smoothie to compliment your clients’ facial and body treatments. Buriti fruit juice is packed with phytoestrogens, plant-based estrogens that can help prevent cardiovascular disease, osteoporosis, and even some hormone-related cancers, such as breast and ovarian cancer.

Vitamins A, C, and E are also present in buriti fruit juice and have antioxidant effects internally as well as on the skin. Vitamin E is an essential nutrient in promoting heart and brain health, and vitamin A is a key ingredient for maintaining healthy eye-sight. Buriti fruit powder is often called “aguaje powder” and can be added to a fruit smoothie to boost its free-radial fighting power. Buriti fruit is also sold as jam and makes a great addition to your spa snacks. Whip up a buriti fruit cocktail and get your clients hooked on this restorative Amazonian jewel!

Buriti Fruit Anti-Oxidant Smoothie: • 1 ripe banana • ½ cup of tropical fruit or berries • ¼ cup of baby spinach • 1 tablespoon of buriti (aguaje) powder • 1 cup of water or orange juice • 1 cup of ice

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #221 on reader service card

www.ageralabs.com | 877-656-5188

84

Vitamin C Essentials

Call today 877.656.5188 to receive a free 21 day trial kit and information about Agera retail and professional products!

October2017

LNEonline.com

    

Visit Us! Ft. Lauderdale Booth #917 Atlanta Booth 304

SCRUB + MASK Hydrating Prep SKIN GLOW Color & Hydration medical and spa

professionals register now www.dermaware.com/ professional

504-469-3500

|

CHAMPAGNE ACID Exfoliation

www.dermaware.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #256 on reader service card

|

Flower Power

This Marine Flower Peptide Serum from Eminence Organics delivers concentrated plant peptides and collagen-boosting botanicals deep into the skin to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for visibly smoother and youthful-looking skin. The new Smart Collagen+ Complex boosts the production of high quality collagen and rejuvenates the complexion, while unique algae extracts increase firmness and provide long-lasting hydration.

ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & Wellness

888.747.6342 eminenceorganics.com

Simply Smooth

CLINICAL Complex-C Serum from Sesha Skin Therapy utilizes the most cutting-edge ingredients and high performance C serum that fights free radicals, prevents glycation, reduces the deepest lines and wrinkles, delays the aging process and restores skin’s youthful appearance. This advanced anti-aging complex is formulated with a highly stable form of vitamin C to increase epidermal thickness, elasticity, restore the skin’s dermal structure and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation for smoother, brighter and overall more healthy looking skin!

Choose Revival!

This unique USDA Certified Organic Natural and Pure Hand & Nail Polishing Buttercream

by Conscious Choice moisturizes, nourishes and exfoliates while turning back the "hands" of time!

Mineral-rich, ultra fine sea salts buff away dull, dry skin to stimulate cell regeneration and leave hands velvety-soft. The creamy rich texture of this product hydrates and restores skin's health to promote a youthful and radiant glow!

772.569.9499 makeaconsciouschoice.com

Daily Wonder

Daily Wonder® Cleansing Foam from Amarte Skin Care is a whipped-toperfection cleanser made to refresh and pamper all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin! For a deep cleanse while providing moisture right where it’s needed, use both morning and night. Apply product to palm, add water, and bring to a rich lather. With light, circular motions gently massage the client's face with your fingertips and rinse. Made with hyaluronic acid, beeswax, lavender extract, natural betaine and green tea extract.

415.613.7570 amarteskincare.com

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 86

October2017

888.977.3742 seshaskin.com

LNEonline.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #289 on reader service card

Theresa Sabatela’s

Key Tips for Makeup Retail in Your Practice 88

October2017

LNEonline.com

SERVICE & RETAIL What is the best part about working with makeup services in the spa industry?

The best part is making our clients not only feel comfortable in their own skin, but to also enhance their natural beauty.

It is so pleasing to see our clients leave with a satisfied smile on their face because of how we were able to brighten their appearance AND their confidence.

Why did you decide to implement makeup services in your spa menu?

We’ve always had makeup services at Nava Wellness & Spa. Offering makeup services on top of skin care and spa services is very important to enhance the overall experience of your facial treatments. With our makeup services, we are able to change the outcome of a rosacea or acne treatment by lightly touching up the client’s features after their treatment with the healthy ingredients we offer in our makeup products.

How do you choose the makeup products that you use?

It is SO important to offer QUALITY makeup in the spa. Not using goodquality products can be toxic and unhealthy for the skin, especially after a sensitive skin or rosacea treatment. I do a lot of research online and communicate with other professionals around the world to make sure the pigments in the products we use are as organic as possible. I test products myself before I purchase them and also give the products to a few of my special clients to try them out and give me their honest feedback.

What is the most difficult part about offering makeup services in your facility?

We sometimes find it hard to add a makeup service right after a facial treatment because clients are used to having a clean face after facials and are under the impression that makeup is not good for the skin after a treatment. We focus on educating our clients about the quality ingredients in the products we offer, such as products that help to minimize pores and are anti-inflammatory.

Which of your makeup services is the most profitable?

Permanent makeup and microblading.

These services are popular because our clients love waking up with a perfect face. Both permanent makeup and microblading allow our clients to not have to worry about sweating their makeup off in this hot Miami sun!

MAKEUP AREA Please describe your area.

We are in the process of creating a private room just for makeup services. For now, we have three makeup areas set up inside separate treatment rooms.

Each area has a corner of the treatment room where we set up a makeup display, chair, table and proper lighting.

MARKETING How do you promote your makeup services?

TEAM MEMBERS How do you select your makeup artists?

When it comes to selecting a new makeup artist, we place an ad online and conduct interviews from those we feel would be a good fit for the spa.

We have applicants bring in a model to demonstrate their makeup skills. We like to see their quality of products as well as how they apply the makeup.

From there, we decide based on their skills and expertise whether or not we think they would be a good addition to Nava Wellness & Spa.

What specific qualities do you look for in a member of your staff?

It comes down to the talent, technique and confidence that a potential employee has. Each one of our makeup artists should be a natural educator.

Communication is key during makeup application and we look for employees who are able to educate our clients and communicate with them to make them look and feel their best. We look for quality of application and the ability to execute a clean, professional and beautiful makeup application.

How do you keep members of your staff incentivized?

We offer our employees a base commission on top of the mandatory gratuity for services, which is 18 to 20 percent.

We also have a bonus program for our staff which includes weekly promos, such as mystery envelopes, that include free services and monetary bonuses for the staff member with the highest overall commission. These help our employees achieve their weekly and monthly goals!

We do a lot of in-house promos. For example, if it’s bridal season, we have promotions for brides and their wedding parties that we promote via flyers, word of mouth and on our social media. We use Facebook, Instagram and Twitter and have a blogger come into the spa to take photos and gather information for upcoming posts promoting Nava Wellness & Spa.

Are your estheticians trained to promote different services after each treatment?

Yes, we have three makeup artists who are also estheticians and they are all trained to promote a professional, daily wear makeup or evening look after facial treatments or other spa services.

INSIDER TIPS Do you have rituals or methods of creating positive energy in your spa?

Yes! We have a variety of relaxing music options as well as aromatherapy options to help create a positive vibe in each of our treatment rooms. Our clients are able to choose the music as well as the aromatherapy they would like during their treatment.

What advice would you pass along to other spa owners considering adding makeup services at their spa?

Clients are looking for transparency and integrity in the relationship they have with a professional. Today’s consumers do not want to be sold to; they are highly educated and have a lot of access to information. Offer QUALITIY products and your revenue will happen naturally over time.

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

89

90

October2017

LNEonline.com

MATURE SKIN

MAKEUP TECHNIQUES Start a Mature Skin Makeup Workshop in Your Spa

by Jaclyn Peresetsky

Every client wants to look their best, no matter their age, ethnicity, or lifestyle. Understanding how your clients’ beauty routines need to change as they age is the key to helping them age gracefully. Makeup is a fun, instantly gratifying tool when used correctly for the age of your particular client. Your clients’ ever changing needs create the perfect opportunity for a "Mature Skin Makeup Workshop” in your spa! Hosting monthly or quarterly workshops showcasing age-blurring makeup techniques will resonate with aging clients of any stage. To best serve your clients, it is vital that anyone doing makeup in your facility learns the best techniques for concealing aging features and can both connect and execute with clients of all ages. Clients often look to the Internet for videos and instruction, but there is no substitution for the personalized attention of inperson consultations. Searching the Internet can also be overwhelming, as it is hard for clients to choose the best application techniques for their particular concerns. It takes a trained eye to identify which products to select and how to apply them appropriately.

LNEonline.com

O ctober2017

91

image mature skin makeup techniques This is a great opportunity for your spa to connect with current and potential clients in a fun and interactive way. The clients will learn new and essential techniques, and walk away with products that will make their everyday routines a little easier. You will increase traffic, retain loyal clients and boost retail sales as word travels fast about your spa’s makeup workshops!

WHAT YOU NEED It is best to hold these workshops after peak spa hours, as they can distract clients who are visiting the spa for scheduled services. These events can be somewhat noisy, as clients love to bring their girlfriends or family members. Set up a designated space in an open area of the spa such as the makeup studio, waiting area, nail studio or a large treatment room. It is important to have this area ready in advance for the main demo.

Create four to five additional makeup stations with the products and tools that the clients will be using to duplicate the demo. Pre-arrange your seating area, and make sure you have sufficient lighting - lighting is everything! Avoid overhead lighting, which creates unflattering shadows. Invest in portrait lighting - it is highly flattering for makeup application and makes for great social media selfies so that clients can share your event.

Don’t forget to factor in complementary refreshments for that “special event” feel!

Have one lead makeup artist perform the demo and several support staff available to assist with product questions, retail purchases, and appointment scheduling. Choose a few clients as models - this makes them feel special and gives them an extra boost of confidence.

Commit to a group of about 10-12 attendees - bigger events do not always convert to bigger revenue! Larger groups can lose the intimacy and connection of these hands-on events. Retail sales will always be higher when the clients feel connected and assured that they are not alone in struggling with these age-related makeup issues.

92

October2017

LNEonline.com

FORMAT OF CLASS Begin the class with the spa manager introducing the makeup artist and setting the expectations for the class. It is helpful when attendees have an idea of the event schedule so that they are less anxious and can be mentally present for the information. Have your makeup artist share a personal story about his or her own journey or about a client’s experience that would connect with the attendees. For example, the artist may say, “I have been a makeup artist for the last five years, and I sometimes still struggle doing my makeup in the morning when I have pillow marks all over my face!”

This will make the group laugh and get everyone in a more relaxed mood.

Then, your makeup artist can start with the models. Each model should sit on a stool or makeup chair as the makeup artist demonstrates each of the mature skin makeup techniques selected for the workshop. It is important to switch models between techniques, as every person has a different face shape, bone structure, skin type, and aging concern. Encourage your attendees to get their phones out to record and post on social media – this is great exposure and free marketing for your spa! After the makeup art-

ist demonstrates three or four techniques, follow by dividing the clients into small groups of about three to four attendees. This is when your support staff will guide the clients in trying the demonstrated techniques with the makeup products provided. The lead makeup artist should visit each group and give additional advice during this hands-on portion of the workshop.

TECHNIQUES Here are a few mature skin makeup topics to demonstrate:  Lay the perfect foundation For mature skin, this goes beyond color matching and considering undertones (although this is crucial for covering inconsistencies in skin tone).

Moisturizing foundations that contain SPF protection will benefit aging skin without drying it out or settling into fine lines. These foundations help to plump the skin and blend easily. Find a foundation that provides enough coverage to camouflage discoloration and inconsistencies in skin tone without looking like a mask.  Define a “new” bone structure After years of focusing on the apples of their cheeks, your aging clients may need to shift blush application.

Women lose fat in their faces as they

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #303 on reader service card

image mature skin makeup techniques

age - take advantage of that! Blend the blush along the highest points of the cheekbones—it makes the client’s bone structure stand out.  Open up the eyes Avoid shadows that have a shimmery or glittery finish. While these textures look beautiful and smooth eyelids, they often settle into fine lines and create more pronounced creases on older clients. Dark colors can also emphasize hollowness and inconsistencies in the client’s skin tone. Use a light beige or neutral pink color on the eyelids to create the illusion of a smoother, large lid space. Follow with a medium grey or brown shade just above the client’s natural crease to create a lifted, wideawake look.

HOW TO PROMOTE

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #276 on reader service card

When considering how to promote your new workshop, advertise first to

94

October2017

LNEonline.com

your established client base through an email blast or newsletter. Once you have successfully completed one or two events and feel more confident in the program, compile client testimonials, videos and pictures to reach new clients via Facebook and Instagram. Consider incentivizing your clients with a special gift or free brow wax - clients love these little bonuses! It is also a good idea to prepare gift bags with makeup and skin care samples that your spa has available for retail or uses in treatments. You may also consider offering special promotions such as discounting products purchased during the event.

Spas must constantly cross-promote their services and products, so this is a great opportunity to give all of the attendees a tour of your facility and offer special pricing on their first service.

This gives them a chance to experience what you have to offer - soon they will be hooked!

SUGGESTED COST PER PERSON Require a non-refundable $25 reservation fee to hold clients’ spots for the workshop. As an incentive, you can allow the registration fee to go towards product purchases made during the event. 

Jaclyn Peresetsky is not only the owner of Skin Perfect Spas in Ohio and Florida, but she is also a noted color expert, makeup artist, master esthetician, author and speaker. Her multiple books, cosmetic and skin care lines, and training courses allow other beauty pros to learn and add more services combining art and science to become leading beauty experts.

Complete Beauty for

Lashes, Brows, Skin & Hair For More Information:

877.760.6677

orders@rocasuba.com rapidlash.com Call today for our holiday special and visit us at these upcoming shows:

Face & Body in Atlanta, GA at Cobb Galleria Centre • October 7-9 • Booth #515 ICES in Miami, FL at Hyatt Regency Miami / James L Knight Center • October 22-23 • Booth #300/302 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #224 on reader service card

Line and Define

Tame lip color and create FLAWLESS definition! With GrandeSTAY PUT Invisible Lip Liner from Grande Cosmetics, say goodbye to the struggle of matching lip shades and liners! Just simply line and define to INSTANTLY contour lips, prevent bleeding colors and fill in the appearance of lip lines!

877.835.3010 grandecosmetics.com

Super Serum

RapidLash®Eyelash and Eyebrow Enhancing Serum is an award-winning serum formulated with an exclusive HEXATEIN ™1 COMPLEX which is a blend of six highly effective ingredients that include polypeptides, biotin, panthenol, amino acids, soybean oil, and pumpkin seed extract. With RapidLash®Eyelash and Eyebrow Enhancing Serum, lashes and brows reach their MAXIMUM beauty potential for a flawless, youthful appearance!

Image

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Beauty Globes

Beauty Globes from Bio Jouvance Paris are the ULTIMATE make up tool! Two chilled spheres are rolled gently across the face and neck, prior to makeup application to close pores. Beauty Globes can also be applied after makeup to “set” makeup for a longer lasting effect. Bio Jouvance Pairs Beauty Globes consist of a glacial blue sphere filled with non-freezing liquid that retains cold for a refreshing experience!

800.272.1716 biojouvance.com

The Finest Fur Minkys Faux Mink Lashes are lighter and more flexible than conventional synthetic lashes. Minkys Lashes are conveniently organized into 12 lash strips. They are glossy, curled and tapered to perfection and will give your clients a soft, natural, stylish look! Give your clients the glamorous sexy look they deserve with Minkys lashes!

888.670.9083 extendyourlashes.com

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 96

October2017

877.760.6677 rapidlash.com

LNEonline.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card

Reader Service No.

Page Number

84............... Agera Labs.............................................................. ageralabs.com............................................................... 221 100............. Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com.................................................... 243 78............... Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics................. beauinstitute.com.......................................................... 167 23............... Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................. 180 76............... Bio Jouvance.......................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................ 140 94............... Biomani Scientific Skin Care................................... biomani.com................................................................... 276 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com....................................................... 139 67............... Bonvital................................................................... bonvital.com.................................................................. 265 37............... Celluma................................................................... biophotas.com............................................................... 295 77............... Dèpileve/Global Beauty Network............................ depileve.com................................................................... 241 85............... Dermaware.............................................................. dermaware.com............................................................. 256 13............... Dp Derm.................................................................. dpderm.com.................................................................. 170 75............... Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com...................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Eminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................. 157 99............... Equipro USA........................................................... equipro-bty.com............................................................. 242 93............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com............................................................. 303 79............... Grandelash MD....................................................... grandelashmd.com........................................................ 286 4,5.............. Hydrafacial by Edge Systems................................. hydrafacial.com............................................................... 201 56............... Hale Cosmeceuticals.............................................. halecosmeceuticals.com............................................... 133 43............... Industry Cosmetics................................................. gomyskin.com................................................................. 330 60,61.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Miami............ miami.skincareshows.com 59............... Lashbomb............................................................... lash-bomb.com.............................................................. 280 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics....... ladyburd.com................................................................. 119 71............... Lira Clinical............................................................. liraclinical.com............................................................... 203 83............... Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research................ lucrece.com................................................................... 263 65............... MySpa..................................................................... myspausa.com............................................................... 144 12............... Nature Pure Labs.................................................... naturepure.com.............................................................. 316 57............... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com.............................................................. 196 97............... Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com.................................................................. 149 19............... Revitalash............................................................... revitalash.com................................................................ 346 95............... Rapidlash/Rocasuba............................................... rapidlash.com................................................................ 224 10,11.......... Satin Smooth.......................................................... satinsmooth.com........................................................... 304 18............... Select Spa Source/Hairaway.................................. resinebyhairaway.com.................................................... 253 25............... Sesderma USA....................................................... sesdermausa.com.......................................................... 319 66............... Sesha Skin Therapy................................................ seshaskin.com............................................................... 271 17............... Shira Cosmetics...................................................... shiraesthetics.com......................................................... 249 55............... Skinade® Bottled Science Inc................................ skinade.com................................................................... 325 87............... Skin Script Skin Care.............................................. skinscriptrx.com............................................................. 289 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

98

October2017

LNEonline.com

Once again!

Our equipment does the job.

Proudly made in The USA and CANADA For your nearest distributor or for a brochure, call this toll-free number 1-877-324-2226 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242 on reader service card

“My Skin Has Never Felt so Good, Thank You DiamondTome!”

Altair Instruments designed and developed today’s most commonly practiced crystal free exfoliation technique.

We introduced the diamond tipped wand almost two decades ago, we’ve been copied but none can compare to our quality and expertise. #upyourskingame Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242 on reader service card

| diamondtome.com