LNE & Spa - June 2015

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals June 2015

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JUNE 2015

V o lume 30

Numb er 6

CONTENTS SKIN

ORGANIC & WELLNESS 10 18 26 34

Psychodermatology Dry vs. Dehydrated Skin The New Client Questionnaire Skin News

Leaves Of Life 106 Make The Connection 108 Organic & Wellness News 116

Leaves Of Life: The Magic Of Moringa

Dry vs. Dehydrated Skin page 18

page 106

WRAPS GUIDE It’s a Wrap!

36 Client Consultation And Skin Analysis 40 Complete Package 42 Seaweed Wrap 44 Aloe Vera Wrap 45 Caffeine Wrap 46 Mineral Wrap 47 Caviar Wrap 48 Chocolate Wrap 49 Infrared Wrap 50 Clay/Mud Wrap 51 Wraps Guide Photo Feature 52

Arch Support page 120

IMAGE Let’s Talk Makeup with Leah Den Herber Arch Support Image News

WRAPS GUIDE

118 120 128

Discover the science behind body wraps, the best and latest ingredients to use, and everything you need to apply and master the different techniques—all broken down in a

clear to follow guide that’ll keep you “wrapped up” with clients.

Wraps Guide page 35

SPA 62 70 80

Spa of the Month Curvalicious!

Spa News

EXTRAS From the Editor 6 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Dallas 2015 Recap 56 Advertiser Index 130

BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Shirin Azhdari All In One How To Handle Negative Online Feedback Business News

84 86 94 102

Cover Courtesy of Franck Provost 2015

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Patent info: www.edgeforlife.com/patents. Other U.S. and foreign patents pending. Copyright© 2015 Edge Systems LLC. All rights reserved.

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sweltering temps and school vacations mean one thing—the beach beckons!

As usual, the arrival of bathing suit season creates an urgency among your clients to tone, smooth and beautify everything from the neck down. Our Wraps Guide on page 35 has all you need to know about this popular body service to give your clients the results they desire. In addition, “Curvalicious!” on page 70 provides an in-depth explanation of all the high-tech body contouring treatments you can offer, and how to decide which type is right for your practice.

Beyond body shaping, learn how to build stronger ties with your existing and potential clients. Update your social media platforms in no time with “All in One” on page 86, and get valuable insight about “How to Handle Negative Online Feedback” on page 94. Also learn how to “Make the Connection” beyond the touchscreen and build a solid relationship with your local community on page 108.

In skin care, get familiar with the brain-skin connection through the fascinating field of “Psychodermatology” on page 10.

Boost the value of your client consultations—and therefore your treatments—with “The New Client Questionnaire,” explained on page 26. Learn how to distinguish between “Dry vs. Dehydrated Skin” on page 18.

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June is here and so is summer. Long days,

Get the scoop on these topics and other leading trends in the June edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa! I want to thank you for your continued support and loyalty, and remind you that I am always interested in hearing your feedback. Together, we can make this industry stronger!

REV080414

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—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd.

Coral Gables, Florida 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com email: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Associate Editor Nathalie Gouillou nathalie@lneonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@lneonline.com Designer Charlie Jackman charlie@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@lneonline.com

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Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@lneonline.com

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International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontr ibutors Claudia Aguirre, Ph.D

Nathalie Gouillou

Mara Shorr

Patti Biro

Kristin Groop

Louis Silberman

Diane Buccola

Lisa Jendza

Flora Vergnolle

Caroline Canetti

Salazar Kilroy

Christiane Waldron

Trina DuBois

Lydia Sarfati

Shian Wing

Aaron M. Flickstein,

Paul Schmidt

Amanda Clinton Winter

D.C. Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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Visit our website: www.ladyburd.com LNEonline.com

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PSYCHO D E R M AT O LO GY T HE B RA I N - S K I N CO N NECTI O N BY

CLAUDIA AGUIRRE, PH.D.

E

motions play a big role in skin diseases. Stress and anxiety in particular are not to be dismissed when it comes to treating the skin. Not only can these feelings trigger or exacerbate skin conditions, they can actually have a profound impact on one’s emotions. As an esthetician, you use your tools and skills to help people with their skin concerns, but you also have the power to help improve the overall quality of life for every client you touch.

With a better understanding of the intimate relationship between the mind and skin, you will be better equipped to manage a client’s expectations and deliver your very best results.

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skin | psychodermatology

MIND-BODY APPROACH

BRIDGING THE FIELDS

FOUR CATEGORIES

The notion of a mind-body connection has been discussed for centuries.

Ancient Eastern healing practices, such as traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic medicine, have also highlighted the interdependence between the mind and body.

Somewhere along the way, we lost this connection in Western medicine, focusing instead on philosophies that treated the body as a separate entity from the mind. It’s only been within the past several decades that we’ve seen the resurgence of mind-body awareness in medicine—and it’s only been in the past decade or so that we’ve seen an emphasis on understanding the interaction between the mind and skin diseases with modern neuroscience techniques.

Psychodermatology is a new medical subspecialty that merges two major medical specialties, psychiatry and dermatology. Psychiatry treats mental processes manifested internally, while dermatology treats skin diseases manifested externally. In medicine, there are four main categories within psychodermatology: psychophysiological disorders, primary psychiatric disorders, secondary psychiatric disorders and miscellaneous conditions like neuroses.

PSYCHOPHYSIOLOGICAL DISORDERS

SOMEWHERE ALONG THE WAY, WE LOST THIS CONNECTION IN WESTERN MEDICINE

Skin disorders commonly seen in the treatment room, such as eczema and acne, which are triggered or worsened by emotional stress. This is the category you are most likely to encounter.

PRIMARY PSYCHIATRIC DISORDERS Problems that arise in the mind, but present on the skin. For example, a habit frequently seen among clients is skin picking, where the picking makes the acne lesion worse, causing even more distress. But the picking, scratching or pulling (as in the hair-pulling disorder, trichotillomania) is anxietydriven, and is ultimately a compulsive behavior that is ideally corrected with psychiatric intervention.

SECONDARY PSYCHIATRIC DISORDERS Diseases of the skin that cause so much distress, they can trigger significant psychological problems such as clinical depression and anxiety. The very visible skin disorders, like psoriasis and vitiligo, are particularly stressful for an individual, and rates of depression and anxiety are higher. Despite being “skin diseases,” psychiatric intervention with anti-anxiety or anti-depressant medications may be prescribed in a medical setting.

MISCELLANEOUS CONDITIONS Include neuroses, such as feeling “bugs” crawling on the skin. These are primarily treated in a psychiatric setting.

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skin | psychodermatology

These subcategories of disorders are not mutually exclusive. For example, stress can trigger a breakout but acne can also cause social anxiety and depression due to visible scarring. While the medical world is beginning to integrate psychiatry and dermatology to better treat their patients, psychodermatology is still a relatively new field, leaving many without the option for integrative treatment. They may not even be getting adequate solutions from their healthcare providers, with specific medicine prescribed to treat their symptoms, rather than unveil the root cause, which may very well originate from the mind.

Approximately 50 percent of people with acne report an emotional trigger to their breakouts.

At least 80 percent of those with atopic dermatitis (eczema) state that psychological stress aggravates or brings about their itch.

More than 90 percent of those with rosacea say stress triggers a flare-up, making their skin hypersensitive.

Nearly 100 percent of those with excessive sweating, hyperhidrosis, say emotions trigger their reaction.

Recurrent flares of psoriasis have been attributed to stress in up to 80 percent of individuals.

What’s more, among psoriasis patients with associated depression, 9.7 percent acknowledged a “wish to be dead,� and 5.5 percent reported active suicidal ideation.

a, Left to Right: Eczemis ias or Ps d an Acne

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skin | psychodermatology A skin treatment center will be working with individuals suffering from inflammatory skin diseases like acne, eczema and rosacea. The destination spa on the other hand, will be a haven for overworked, stressed individuals wanting a respite from their day-to-day struggles.

In both cases, whether clients are coming in for stress, acne or eczema, you’re dealing with chronic inflammation, and this poses a major threat to the health and well-being of your clients.

THERE ARE FASTCONDUCTING FIBERS THAT ARE THICK AND HIGHLY INSULATED, AND TRANSMIT ELECTRICAL SIGNALS TO OUR BRAIN, MUCH LIKE A HIGH-SPEED INTERNET CONNECTION ALLOWS US TO DOWNLOAD A MOVIE QUICKLY.

Now think of the many people that quietly suffer from these conditions.

Consider the overworked mother, who will likely get a facial or massage to deal with her stress levels rather than see a physician. Then there is the acne prone teenager seeking help from OTC products, but finds they are not working.

We live in a society where stress is pervasive, lurking behind every traffic jam, adding fuel to the fire of inflammation in our bodies. As an esthetician, you are uniquely qualified to provide relief from the symptoms associated with stress-related skin diseases. From aromatherapy inhalation techniques, to pressure point massage add-ons and the act of gently massaging the face, these truly mind-body strategies ultimately reduce the levels of stress hormones in the body, allowing for a better balance between the immune, nervous and cutaneous systems.

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THE POWER OF TOUCH Modern society can definitely be described as touch-deprived. Estheticians and massage therapists represent two professions where practitioners touch the skin of clients—a rarity today. With touch, we induce hormonal signals carried via the skin to our brain’s cognitive and emotional centers, resulting in positive behavioral changes. Recent neuroscience research has unveiled the mysteries of touch.

Our skin, the largest organ, is highly innervated and connected to our brain.

It allows us to “feel,” with some sensations calling for an immediate response (like a burn) while others take some

time to process, like the pleasure of a massage.

The rate at which these different sensations reach our brain and create emotions arises from anatomical differences in the nerve fibers that live just beneath the surface of the skin. There are fast-conducting fibers that are thick and highly insulated, and transmit electrical signals to our brain, much like a high-speed Internet connection allows us to download a movie quickly.

Now if these fast-conducting nerves are like ethernet cords, the slow-acting nerves can be likened to having a dial-up Internet connection. These slow-conducing nerve fibers, called “C-fibers,” are thin and uninsulated.

And it is these very “slow” nerves that are processed in the region of the human brain responsible for positive feelings, the insular cortex. Translated, that means we feel pleasure from receiving a gentle caress.

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skin | psychodermatology When you give your client a facial massage, you are activating these very slow nerve fibers that result in positive feelings and ultimately reduce levels of the stress hormone, cortisol. One other mechanism by which your gentle touch reduces cortisol is by increasing it’s counterpart, oxytocin.

YOU ARE PROVIDING A MINDBODY THERAPY THAT RESTORES THE CELLULAR BALANCE BETWEEN THE SKIN, NERVOUS SYSTEM AND IMMUNE SYSTEM

Oxytocin is involved in a variety of social behaviors, including maternal care, aggression, bonding between couples, sexual behavior, social memory and trust. Oxytocin also reduces stress responses, including cortisol levels.

Oxytocin is a hormone linked to feelings of empathy.

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REFERENCES:

IN YOUR HANDS Empathy is impaired in many aspects of today’s modern culture. If you were not empathic with your touch, you would likely be in a different profession, as estheticians are in the business of touch.

You are not simply breaking up knots in muscles, or cleaning and smoothing the skin—you are providing a mind-body therapy that restores the cellular balance between the skin, nervous system and immune system.

Through touch, you can contribute to building a more connected and compassionate world, beyond the immediate effects of reducing individual stress, one treatment at a time.

Levin, Ethan C., and John YM Koo. “Psychodermatology: An Overview.” Semin Cutan Med Surg 32 (2013): 64-67.

Löken L.S., Wessberg J., Morrison I., McGlone F. & Olausson H. (2009). Coding of pleasant touch by unmyelinated afferents in humans, Nature Neuroscience, 12 (5) 547-548.

Senra, M. S., and A. Wollenberg.

“Psychodermatological aspects of atopic dermatitis.” British Journal of Dermatology 170.s1 (2014): 38-43.

Claudia Aguirre, Ph.D., is a neuroscientist and skin expert, specializing in the connection between mind and body.

Dr. Aguirre consults internationally as a professional speaker and writer for the health and wellness industries.

She is the in-house neuroscientist at Headspace, a meditation app. Dr. Aguirre can be reached through her website, doctorclaudia.com.

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DRY

D E T A R D VS DE H Y

SKIN

by Christiane Waldron Remember Lady Gaga’s song “Born This Way”? The lyrics apply to me. I was born with dry skin. I never get oily or shiny—the only time my skin looks dewy is when I apply multiple layers of strong moisturizing creams.

I’ve always struggled with preventing moisture from escaping my skin. I’ve never had any skin problems in the summer, but winter has always been torture. I eventually realized that my problem was related to dryness. Dry skin, as we call it, is a skin “type.” It’s something we’re born with, and it only gets worse with aging.

Scientifically speaking, dry skin is a lack of oil production from sebaceous glands, and there is really no way to activate those glands.

Dry skin is a lifelong issue; if not managed well, it can lead to sensitivity and accelerate aging.

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When you notice that a client has dryness, investigate the issue further by asking about their lifestyle.

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DEHYDRATED SKIN: A LIFESTYLE PROBLEM So what about dehydrated skin? That’s another story. Dehydrated skin is a skin “condition,” caused by lifestyle and skin care habits. Dehydrated skin is reversible, and is due to a lack of moisture in the stratum corneum. In other words, dehydration is caused by the absence of water on the skin surface. The following habits can contribute to the problem:

Using skin care containing low molecular weight alcohol (particularly in toners and serums)

Using harsh soaps and over-cleansing the skin

Prolonged exposure to excessively dry hot or cold weather without adequate moisture protection

Excessive tanning and exposure to UVA and UVB rays

Unhealthy dietary habits

Not staying hydrated enough

Not using enough moisturizing products

Good News Dehydrated skin can be prevented, while dry skin needs to be managed.

Recognize the problem To most women, dry or dehydrated skin looks like normal skin. In our constant battle against oil, the message now is that shiny skin is oily skin. So when people don’t notice any shine, they think it’s a good thing.

As their skin care expert, you have the responsibility to figure out what they’re suffering from and help them correct or manage the problem.

How can you tell?

Symptoms of both dry and dehydrated skin can be very similar, and it might be difficult to spot the difference quickly. Good observational skills and asking the right questions during skin evaluation are both extremely important in identifying the real problem. Dry or dehydrated skin affects both the face and body, and can be present in both men and women, although it is most prevalent in mature women.

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skin | dry vs dehydrated skin

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skin

Here are signs to look for from a strictly observational basis:

Skin looks leathery, rough or scaly

the right questions These are all good indications of a problem, but asking questions is critical to identifying whether you’re looking at dry or dehydrated skin. Dry skin only gets worse with age, as our ability to produce oil and sebum diminishes, and hormonal changes affect this function to an even greater extent.

When you notice that a client has dryness, investigate the issue further by asking about their lifestyle. Asking the following questions can provide some clarity:

Dehydrated skin Your client scratches their face or body

Have you been outside a lot lately? Do you exercise outdoors?

Have you changed your skin care routine? Are you using a new cleanser and toner?

Have you been tanning a lot lately?

They complain that the skin feels tight or itchy during the day

Are you exfoliating very frequently?

Do you drink a lot of water and eat vegetables?

What type of moisturizer do you use in your daily routine?

The elbows and knees are much lighter in color than the rest of the body skin

Dry skin Do you typically see or feel any oil on your face in the afternoon or early evening?

The skin appears to be flaky and sensitized

Have you or anyone in your family been diagnosed with a skin problem such as eczema or psoriasis?

Does your skin feel taut and tight all day, even after applying a moisturizer?

Does your skin get really dry in the cold weather?

It is late in the day and your client’s face has no shine in the T-zone

They tell you their skin never gets shiny or oily

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How can you help?

Once you know if the skin is dry or dehydrated (or both), solid advice becomes important to either manage dry skin or repair dehydrated skin. When you understand your client’s genetic predisposition and lifestyle, you’ll be able to educate your client and customize the right treatment for them.

skin | dry vs dehydrated skin

Knowing the right ingredients You need to know which ingredients are most often used to retain or bring moisture to the skin so you can carry these products in both the retail and backbar areas that address dryness.

Emollients Shea butter, dimethicone and other silicones smooth and soften the skin, making it supple and slippery.

Oils and fatty acids More oils are making a comeback in today’s products. While not for all skin types, ingredients like avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil and argan oil create a natural skin barrier that prevents moisture loss from the skin and deeply moisturizes and rehydrates.

Humectants Hyaluronic acid and glycerin attract water to the skin. Increasing the water content on the skin’s surface and preventing it from leaving the skin is important in the battle against dryness.

Alpha-hydroxy acids

Scientifically-advanced treatments for skin of all hues.

In 1969, James E. Fulton, M.D., Ph.D., the brilliant researcher, cosmetic surgeon and dermatologist, co-developed Vitamin A acid known as Retin A®, forever changing skin care.

His formulations for Vivant deliver healthier, more radiant skin.

Vivant’s internationally recognized and patented Vitamin A Skin Conditioners are delivered deep into the skin’s surface to help stimulate new collagen production.

Lactic and glycolic acids gently exfoliate the skin to reduce roughness and scaling. They help the skin regenerate itself to boost collagen production.

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Antioxidants Vitamin C, E or Coenzyme Q10 don’t add moisture, but help protect against free radical attacks and environmental damage. Replenishing lost nutrients is a vital part of a good skin care management program.

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be a skin mentor

In spa treatments For starters, your menu should include a plumping and rehydrating facial. You should also have a good moisturizing cream in the backbar and retail areas. Offer an add-on component to skin care services specifically focused on an extra moisturizing boost for the skin during the skin evaluation. I’m also a big proponent of applying multiple layers of moisturizing post facial creams to help increase the client’s chances of rehydrating and retaining the moisture on their skin.

Make your services invaluable to your client by offering a good “program” that covers lifestyle, health, fitness and skin care choices that help them attain and maintain fit skin for life. The program should include a 360° approach to skin care fitness. Advise your clients of the following: ➢Drink plenty of water. ➢Eat leafy vegetables to help hydrate from the inside out. ➢Exercise regularly to flush toxins out. ➢Remove any products containing drying alcohols from the skin care routine. ➢Teach the client to properly exfoliate using gentle scrubs and AHAs at home.

Offer good retail products The secret to retaining your clients is helping them solve their skin problems. You may see them once a month or once every three months, which is not enough time to help them heal dryness. Managing their at-home routine is very important. If they’re not using your retail products, provide them with the education they need in order to do so.

➢Use a hydrating mask on a regular basis to help detoxify and shed the flaky skin. ➢Layer a serum, a day cream and possibly even a night cream before applying makeup.

By creating a 360° approach to manage your client’s skin, you’ll be much more than their esthetician, you’ll be their mentor and coach, and this will boost your credibility and increase your bottom line. n For more information on the 360° approach to skin care, read Waldron’s article in next month’s issue about the “PRB” skin care principle.

Christiane Waldron is the founder and CEO of Jenetiqa, a professional luxury skin care company. Waldron formulates products that address all signs of age, and believes that early prevention and an excellent daily routine are the secrets to beautiful, healthy skin. For more information, visit jenetiqa.com or contact her at christiane.waldron@jenetiqa.com.

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T H E

NEW CLIENT QUESTIONNAIRE

by Diane Buccola

A

s the esthetics business continues to evolve into more clinical and diverse specialties, the need for a new type of client questionnaire has also increased. The benefits of rethinking the way we provide questionnaires are many, the most important being the safety and comfort of the client, as well as lowering the risk of any potential liability issues for the esthetician.

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skin | the new client questionnaire

A good questionnaire removes guesswork and creates a better experience. Whether referred to as a “New Client Questionnaire,” “Client Intake Form,” “Client History” or “Client Evaluation,” the purpose of this crucial document is to gather background information and to determine any possible contraindications related to the services we provide.

This process can actually help the client clarify their need— not just for today’s service, but also for future services—so it should be comprehensive. Another advantage is that it can aid the esthetician in assessing the client’s likes and dislikes to further customize the client’s experience.

Although basic questionnaires are often available from skin care product manufacturers, I believe that estheticians are better off creating their own intake form so that it’s specific to their particular esthetic practice. I’m not suggesting a professionally made form; rather, just a simple questionnaire created on a computer so it can be edited and reprinted as needed.

WHETHER REFERRED TO AS A “NEW CLIENT QUESTIONNAIRE,” “CLIENT INTAKE FORM,” “CLIENT HISTORY” OR “CLIENT EVALUATION,” THE PURPOSE OF THIS CRUCIAL DOCUMENT IS TO GATHER BACKGROUND INFORMATION AND TO DETERMINE ANY POSSIBLE CONTRAINDICATIONS RELATED TO THE SERVICES WE PROVIDE.

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The typical questionnaire will include several categories, each with a specific purpose. Some estheticians require that new clients complete the questionnaire themselves before the appointment begins. However, there are many disadvantages and lost opportunities that result from this practice: The verbal questionnaire process is a great conversation starter, allowing a new client to bond with the esthetician.

Not only is it easier on the client when the esthetician asks the questions and the client verbally responds, it’s a time-saver compared to having the client complete the form, which also necessitates a follow-up review by the esthetician.

If the esthetician is asking questions directly from the form, the document can be simpler since the esthetician is the only one seeing it.

From a customer service perspective, one of our main goals is to give the client a pleasant experience when she comes in for a service, and a writing assignment provides the opposite.

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skin | the new client questionnaire Here are some categories and topics that you can incorporate into your client questionnaire, however it applies to your esthetics practice.

FORMULATING THE QUESTIONS ISSUES AND GOALS

PERSONAL INFORMATION

Rather than offering a generic facial for all clients, esthetic treatments today are customized according to each client’s individual needs and goals. So to best serve them, it’s important that we understand from our clients’ point of view what issues they would like to address.

When it comes to a client’s privacy, we must be respectful.

I have seen some highly inappropriate questions on client questionnaires. We have no way of knowing if a certain topic might be a sensitive issue to a new client; therefore, we must approach everything with the utmost respect. Consider the following examples:

No. 1 skin care goal or top three complaints (can be asked either way). The most common answers will be: to look younger, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, balance skin tone, calm redness, clear areas of congestion, resolve dryness, remove brown spots.

Previous skin care treatments. Their level of familiarity with facials is one factor that can help you determine your protocols regarding touch, sensitivities, and any temperature or modesty issues. It’s also helpful to know if they’ve had microdermabrasion, LED, peels, or other services that are on your treatment menu. Armed with that information, you can be certain to stay within the client’s comfort level.

Employment. While it’s helpful to know if a new client has a job that involves exposure to extreme temperatures or UV rays, it’s not necessary to note exactly what their occupation is unless they offer that detail.

Age. It’s not our business to ask our clients’ age; it’s more appropriate to ask about a range, such as whether they are in their 30s or 40s. Frequently, they will offer their exact age anyway.

Marital status. Asking about a client’s marital status is irrelevant and inappropriate.

Home address, email address and/or home phone number.

Consumers are inundated with unwanted solicitations these days, so it’s wise to ask the new client if you may have his or her contact information, and inquire as to which method they prefer you utilize to contact them.

Cell phone. In 2003, the FCC adopted rules that prohibit sending unwanted commercial messages to wireless devices without prior permission. So not only are unsolicited texts annoying, they’re also illegal.

Smoker. Smoking has a definite impact on a client’s skin condition, so this is a simple “yes” or “no” question.

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skin

MEDICAL BACKGROUND This portion of the client questionnaire explores allergies, medications, health conditions, and recent cosmetic surgeries.

Previous referral to a dermatologist, and the reason for the visit. This is to explore possible use of Accutane or Retin A, prescribed topical medications, or previous skin cancers and treatment.

Recent surgeries, injectables, fillers. It’s important that we know when and where on the face or body these procedures occurred, as we may need to avoid the area and/or eliminate certain elements of the treatment.

Allergies. The range of possible allergic reactions has grown over the years in accordance with the evolution of skin care products, and now we must consider things like shellfish, citrus, latex, aspirin, gluten, and fragrance.

Medications. This is an important question because certain medications can definitely affect the skin, and can be a serious contraindication to esthetic services. However, we must be especially sensitive in our exploration of a client’s prescription medication history.

FEMALE CLIENTS

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #284 on reader service card

Pregnant or nursing? If the client answers this question in the affirmative, we have to avoid treatments that include electricity and/or ingredients that may get into the bloodstream. It’s always best to have the client’s doctor provide a note with any limitations he or she may feel is necessary. Oftentimes, with the client’s permission, this can be accomplished via a simple phone call or email to the doctor’s office, which results in the doctor’s written response.

Hormonal issues. Hormonal fluctuations can cause breakouts and other skin issues, so we need to know if she is taking Hormone Replacement Therapy (HRT), or if she has breakouts consistent with her monthly menses.

MALE CLIENTS Whether he prefers a wet or dry shave.

The type of shave and after-shave products he uses.

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skin | the new client questionnaire

CONTRAINDICATIONS In addition to medical reasons, there are many lifestyle elements that can impact the client’s eligibility for certain esthetic treatments, especially those involving electrical appliances.

Recent UV exposure. It’s important to know if the client has been recently exposed to the sun or has been in the tanning bed within the last 14 days (approximately). Of course, we know that clients are not always completely honest about this, which is why it’s so important to note that you asked the question and recorded the client’s answer.

Medical conditions: Pacemakers, metal implants or epilepsy.

Open wounds or sores. Cuts, abrasions, Herpes breakouts and suspicious moles.

HOME CARE

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #140 on reader service card

This may be the most important category because there is so much helpful information that can result from this discussion.

This opens the door to educating the client regarding the

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importance of professional products and procedures, which lead to proper home care and retail sales.

Over-the-counter, department store, professional or MLM Frequency and method of cleansing Moisturizer, toner, exfoliant, serums, sunblock, eye cream

Other

It’s the esthetician’s job to make sure clients are comfortable with ingredients, and that they sufficiently understand the benefits of each product. From a retail sales perspective, it’s essential that clients feel confident that the products will be a worthwhile investment for them. n

Diane Buccola has been a licensed esthetician in California since 1998, and is the owner of SpaBizBoard.com. Buccola serves on the Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa advisory board, and has authored two books, including “Estheticians Are a Girl’s Best Friend” and “The Heart of Esthetics: Creating Loyal Clients and Achieving Financial Success.”

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SUN SHIELD Skin Professional Dead Sea Cosmetics’ Pro Line Moisturizing Cream with SPF 40 is a unique formula that contains molecules which create a combined defense against a wide spectrum of UVA and UVB rays providing maximum waterproof protection, says the company. Enriched with Dead Sea minerals, skin is left healthy, pleasant and fresh.

305.965.0320 skincosmeticspro.com

ANTI-AGING TREAT Synergie Skin’s SuperSerum is an anti-aging concentrate containing a blend of peptides and saccharides that triggers the production of epidermal stem cells, collagen and hyaluronic acid, says the company. The new peptide Juveleven mimics Fox-O3a (a human protein that reverses cell aging and repairs DNA damage), while the Snap-8 muscle relaxant helps reduce wrinkles.

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

SkinNews

800.989.7546 skinelegance.com

MIX AND MATCH Décleor launches its Expert Body Care Two Step Program, which consists of five new products that use the expertise of essential oils for a body program that will exfoliate and nourish skin, says the company. The program includes: 1000 Grain Body Exfoliator, Satin Softening Dry Oil, Nourishing Rich Body Cream, Nourishing Rich Body Oil and Nourishing Body Balm.

888.414.4471 decleorusa.com

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BRING SKIN BACK TO LIFE Phyto-C introduces its SUPERHEAL O-Live collection formulated with olive leaf extract and featuring five topical products full of antioxidant, healing, anti-viral and anti-inflammatory benefits, says the company.

The collection includes: SUPERHEAL O-Live Mask, SUPERHEAL O-Live Serum, SUPERHEAL O-Live Cream, SUPERHEAL O-Live Gel, and SUPERHEAL O-Live Lotion.

800.474.9862 myphyto-c.us LNeonline.com

WRAPS GUIDE

Discover the science behind body wraps, the best and latest ingredients to use, and everything you need to apply and master the different techniques—all broken down in a clear to follow guide that’ll keep you “wrapped up” with clients.

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It’s a Wrap!

The Science Behind Body Wraps

by Caroline Canetti

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ody wraps have been used to help detoxify, relax, moisturize, and heal the body since ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Today, they do much more than just detox and heal. With advancements in science, wraps now have a broader range of benefits, including cellulite reduction, anti-aging, firming, contouring, soothing, and energizing.

Body wraps contain a careful mix of ingredients that are designed to draw out the excess fluids and toxins while restoring nutrients to the body. The key to creating a wrap for the aforementioned specific benefits lies in the combination of ingredients.

Detox For a detox and inch-loss wrap, clients are typically wrapped in ace bandages soaked in a mixture of water and herbs and then wrapped up like a burrito on a massage table to sweat it out. “Once the body has absorbed the solution, your body reacts to these particular herbs by detoxing and purging toxins through the lymphatic system back into the bandages. The herbs make you ‘go,’ but use your skin and lymphatic system as a catalyst,” says Dae Flesher, owner of The Cellulite Clinic in Studio City, Calif.

Mud and seaweeds Mud and seaweeds are also popular ingredients for detox wraps and skin firming. “In our Mud Wrap (60 minutes, $80), we use a mineral-rich mud that has bromide, iodine, magnesium, potassium, and calcium. It helps to improve the metabolism of the cell and helps the regeneration of the cell, and minerals in the mud what they do is they will pull out the toxins. Seaweed is also great for detox and skin firming,” says Leslie McAfee, manager of Serendipity Boutique & Spa in Liberty, Mo.

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Cellulite reduction When creating a cellulite reduction treatment, coffee is a great option. “It’s a diuretic. When you drink it, you will pee a lot and it dehydrates you. When you apply coffee to the skin your body absorbs the caffeine, it also dehydrates the fat cells and trapped fluid right below the dermis. So the superficial cellulite (which is trapped fat, impurities, and fluid) is now circulating and is free to be flushed out through sweat or urination. The mud has tightening effect so the result is firming smoother legs or whatever area you use the product,” says Flesher.

Sunburn-soothing For your sun and surf-loving clients, a seasonal sunburn-soothing wrap may be just what they need during those hot summer months. The Spa at Sandpearl Resort in Clearwater Beach, Fla., has a Soothing Sun Wrap (50 minutes, $130) that helps nourish and tone the skin.

“We use a sea-mineral enriched body balm. Alaria esculenta marine extract improves the skin’s elasticity and macrocystic algae is high in iodine, vitamins and minerals to heal sun-damaged skin and prevent wrinkles. Botanical coconut and babassu oils are readily absorbed 38

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and rejuvenate dry, flaky skin leaving behind the scent of paradise,” says Maureen Vipperman, corporate director of spa operations at OPL, which manages Sandpearl Resort.

All different No two wraps are ever the same and vary greatly from spa to spa, and that is true for anti-aging wraps as well. “Really anytime you are exfoliating and adding hydration to the skin, you are feeding it and making it appear vital and soft to the touch, which looks and feels more youthful. Some beneficial products we use are seaweeds, honey, and aloe vera.

We’ve also used products with vitamin A to help facilitate cell turnover (think Retin-A for the body), but the bad part is that you can only use it on a few body parts at a time,” says Christie Lavigne, director of skin care at Oasis Day Spa in New York, N.Y. Oasis offers a Body Hydrating Wrap (60 minutes, $120), Oasis Purity Wrap (60 minutes, $120), and a few scrub/ wrap combos.

Tiger’s grass Centella asiatica, aka Tiger’s grass, is one of the secret ingredients in the firming and toning wrap at The Sagestone

Spa & Salon at Red Mountain Resort in St. George, Utah. “This plant helps boost collagen production to improve the firmness of the skin. It also helps to redensify the skin by laying down fundamental substances, which is critical in maintaining the moisture and hydration of the skin,” says Marci Howard-May, director of spa and wellness.

Several purposes Many wraps serve several purposes, such as the Contouring Wrap at Red Mountain, which uses aquatic mint, baccharis, and caffeine to streamline the body’s contours and help reduce the appearance of cellulite.

Energizing effect And while most wraps are relaxing, some clients might need one that gives them an invigorating feeling instead.

ESSpa Kozmetica’s Hungarian Paprika Cellulite Treatment (60 minutes, $175) does just that. “It’ll really light you up.

It increases the circulation, which is energizing. You will be tingly and that comes from the combination of the paprika and the cinnamon,” says Scott Kerschbaumer, co-owner of ESSpa Kozmetica Organic Skincare, with multiple locations in Pennsylvania. n

Here are some of the most common ingredients for various wraps to get you inspired! keep in mind that many other ingredients can be used (and mixed) for each.

DETOXIFYING

CELLULITE REDUCING

ANTI-AGING/SKIN FIRMING

Chocolate Dead Sea mud minerals Seaweed Clay Kelp Herbs including: aloe vera, comfrey, chickweed, bladderwack, clove, burdoxk root, parsley, grapefruit oil, sweet orange peel extract oil

Mud Rhassoul clay Caffeine Kelp Fenugreek powder

Centellica asiatica (Tiger’s grass) Lemon thyme Bocoa wood caviar Oat sugar Cinnamon Orange powders Green tea extract Vitamins A, C, E Chocolate Seaweed

SUNBURN/SOOTHING Aloe vera Mineral rich algae Green tea extract Cucumber Vitamins

INCH LOSS Dead Sea mud minerals Seaweed Clay Kelp Herbs including: aloe vera, comfrey, chickweed, bladderwack, clove, burdock root, parsley, grapefruit oil, sweet orange peel extract oil

RELAXATION

BODY CONTOURING Aquatic mint Baccharis Caffeine Celosia cristata Raspberry Lingonberry powders

Warm honey Lavender Rose Milk Warm oils and lotions Paraffin

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WRAPS GUIDE

Client Consultation and Skin Analysis

by Amanda Clinton Winter

B

efore beginning a body wrap service, it’s essential to conduct a proper client consultation and skin analysis to help determine two things: whether or not a client is fit to receive a body wrap; and to identify any specific factors that may impact how you conduct their service. These are both extremely important in order to ensure the client’s safety, best possible results and to protect you from liability.

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CONSULTATION FORM The client should fill out a signed consultation form answering questions about any of the following to reveal potential contraindications: Allergies The last thing you want your client to take away from your body wrap service is an allergic reaction. Topically, this can appear in the form of irritation, rash, or possibly worse complications when ingredients are absorbed through the skin.

Medical conditions Many illnesses will be contraindicated with body wraps, or necessitate a medical release.

Pregnancy/breastfeeding Expectant mothers and lactating women should not receive body wraps.

Dislike of heat or claustrophobia Clients who can’t stand being hot or physically constricted will not enjoy a body wrap, which tightly compresses and warms the body for a sustained period of time.

Skin conditions Some ingredients (or wraps in general) will not be suitable to use on clients with certain skin conditions.

SKIN ANALYSIS It’s no secret that clients often fail to accurately report their skin types or conditions (or even have the knowledge to do so). Thus, the technician should conduct their own skin analysis with the client as they sit down with them and review their answers on the consultation

• Fatigue Clients may feel unusually tired as their body eliminates the toxins.

SET REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS

Finish your consultation by letting clients know what they need to do when they leave the spa to maximize their results.

• For showerless treatments, clients should avoid bathing or getting wet for at least eight hours to allow the beneficial wrap ingredients to be fully absorbed.

• Drink at least 64 ounces of water each day for several days following the wrap treatment.

• For inch loss or contouring wraps, practice healthy diet and exercise habits to sustain results. n

Results It’s important for your clients to understand what to expect in terms of results. For example, clients receiving an inch loss wrap should know the realistic range of loss measurement. If the inch loss will take place over the next several days rather than hours, make sure they understand that the effect will not be immediate.

Side effects Clients should be aware of any side effects they may experience after the body wrap so they know not to worry if they experience the following symptoms: • Bloating Clients may experience bloating initially after wrapping as the ingredients work to break down and remove toxins.

• Flu-like symptoms As the body rids itself of toxins, clients may experience mild flu-like symptoms.

This is more likely to be experienced by newcomers to body wrap treatments.

Explain to your clients that for all of these symptoms, drinking plenty of water can speed up recovery by helping to flush out the toxins.

WRAPS GUIDE

Prescription medications It’s important to note which medications clients are on, as certain ingredients in the wrap may interact as they’re absorbed through the skin.

form. During the skin analysis, you will be able to note possible contraindications or other relevant facts that the consultation form may not, including the following: • Open wounds, or signs of recent surgery such as scars • Skin conditions • Signs of inflammation, eruptions or infections • Skin type

POST-TREATMENT INSTRUCTIONS

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

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WRAPS GUIDE

COMPLETE PACKAGE Supplement body wraps with other services

by Amanda Clinton Winter

B

ody wraps are a highly profitable business practice that benefits your clients and boosts your bottom line.

This is especially true when you factor in the abundance of additional treatments that can be provided during the wrap. With clients resting in the body wrap for approximately 20-40 minutes with their head, face, feet and hands exposed, treatments on these areas can easily be performed simultaneously. This maximizes the spa’s time and revenue while providing the client

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with an exceptional experience and benefits—a true win-win!

The following treatments can range anywhere from approximately 10 to 30 minutes, fitting perfectly into the body wrap downtime.

MINI FACIAL OR SKIN TREATMENT An express facial can easily be performed while a client rests in a body wrap. This mini-facial service can be a

modified, 30-minute version of a standard facial designed to relax, refresh and revitalize.

Alternatively, you can offer the client a targeted solution to one of their specific concerns in this amount of time, such as blackhead removal with extractions. A premium exfoliation option, such as a peel or microdermabrasion, can also be added.

Eyes and lips Rejuvenating eye and lip treatments are typical facial service upgrades as well as common stand alone services on spa menus. These fabulous facial tune-ups are a great option to offer the client as they rest in their body wrap

Facial hair removal Many clients will appreciate the opportunity to get their facial hair removal services taken care of during their wrap downtime. From brow shaping to vellous hair removal on the lips and cheeks, these short services are the perfect supplement to a wrap.

Whether included in the mini-facial or offered on its own, a face massage is a supplement to further relax your client and boost circulation for a brighter complexion during a body wrap. For a refreshing contrast to the heat of the body wrap, you can offer a cold stone face massage, which is an excellent remedy for sinuses and headaches.

Scalp massage A therapeutic scalp massage incorporating customized aromatherapy can release tension while providing deep relaxation, easing headaches and stimulating the scalp.

HAND AND/OR FOOT EXFOLIATION An exfoliating foot scrub is a great treat for fatigued, callused hands and feet.

Finished with a hydrating product being massaged into the skin, the client

Manicure or pedicure Finger or toenails can easily be cleaned, shaped and polished while the client rests in the wrap, topped off with a hand or foot massage.

The perfect pitch Any of these treatments can be suggested to your clients when they book the wrap. Appeal to their sense of convenience. Your front desk personnel should be instructed to say something like, “You will be wrapped for approximately 40 minutes. Would you like to have your facial/lip wax, manicure etc. done at the same time?” Even if they decline, the therapist can offer it again during the session itself. Many clients may be easily persuaded to indulge in something extra as they’re relaxing and enjoying the experience of another treatment.

Use your wrap services as an opportunity for both you and your clients to make the most of every minute with a truly all-encompassing experience that provides them with more benefits and maximizes your revenue in record time! n

WRAPS GUIDE

Face massage

is left with perfectly soft, touchable hands or feet, just like the rest of the body post-wrap.

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

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SEAWEED WRAP

by Lydia Sarfati

T

WRAPS GUIDE

he key to the success of this treatment lies in the consultation and compliance of the client. Be sure to consult with him or her about the importance of healthy lifestyle choices.

Proper diet and exercise combined with frequent salon treatments in conjunction with at-home products is essential to success.

For best results, clients should receive two treatments per week for six weeks. It’s important to note that this is not recommended for clients with high blood pressure or those who are pregnant. These conditions must be screened during the client consultation.

Proper body diagnosis and body measurements are advised before treatment begins and during the course of the series. Measure your client’s arms, thighs, hips, abdomen and waist.

TARGET: Helps increase circulation, detoxify, hydrate, break up fatty deposits and firm skin, helping to reduce the appearance of cellulite, even skin tone and reduce stress. Specific seaweeds such as Ascophyllum Nodosum, help balance blood cholesterol levels and expel heavy metals, toxins and impurities. Spirulina enhances physical and mental well-being, and helps detoxify the body naturally.

WET ROOM/SHOWER: YES

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MATERIAL NEEDED: • Electric thermal blanket or wool blanket • Mylar sheet • Dry brushes • Sanitized non-latex gloves • Seaweed wrap • Body cream or oil DESCRIPTION OF PROTOCOL: Place an electric thermal blanket on the treatment bed, then drape a flat sheet over it. Place the Mylar sheet over this. Have the client lie down on the treatment table. Perform a five to ten minute “dry” massage using pressure points to stimulate circulation. You could also do a dry brushing massage for this. Using gloved hands or a brush, apply a thin layer of seaweed wrap onto the skin. Turn the client over and repeat this procedure on the front of the body. Cover the client with the Mylar sheet and electric thermal blanket for 15-20 minutes. Be careful not to overheat the client. You could administer a scalp massage at this time, or apply a cool compress or eye pads as well.

Uncover the client and escort them to the shower. Remove Mylar sheet and replace with clean, flat sheets and towel. Massage areas of concern with contouring cream or oil for 30 minutes.

POST-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • At home care includes the regular use of contouring cream, shower and bath gels, body cream and exfoliating scrub AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 55 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $100

Lydia Sarfati is the president and founder of Repêchage. Sarfati is the honorary chair of EstheticsAmerica,

PRE-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • Clean skin • No soap or lotion on skin prior to wrap • Dry brushing may be done • Drink water

CIDESCO USA and the Skin Care & Spa Council Director of Intercoiffure North America. Email her at Lydia@repechage.com.

ALOE VERA WRAP

by Nicol McFadden

A

loe Vera body wraps began during the King Tut Dynasty and became ever more popular in the 1980s. Using aloe (especially enzyme active aloe) for its penetrating qualities as a base for body wrap solutions will allow the product to penetrate through skin layers, to the areas where fat is stored.

TARGET: Aloe Vera has been used for skin care for centuries because it provides remarkable soothing softness for troubled skin. Properties within the aloe vera gel provide nourishment for healthy skin but also encourage healing for problem skin. Aloe has long been referred to as a wound healing plant. Whether acne, burns, rashes or insect bites, aloe vera will promote healing to the area and cell regeneration to prevent scar tissue development.

WET ROOM/SHOWER: NO MATERIAL NEEDED: • Aloe Vera product • Lounging table • Linens • Warming suit to keep client from being chilled in the wet wrapping • Blanket • Measuring tape • Warming pot • Gloves DESCRIPTION OF PROTOCOL: The cotton wrapping linens are applied warm/hot to open the pores for

faster absorption. It will take less than 10 minutes for a technician to wrap a full body. The linens can be applied with the client standing, laying or sitting on the treatment table. The client will lounge comfortably in the wrap for 45 minutes.

It’s encouraged for the client to receive a series of body wrap treatments.

A series of seven or 12 treatments are most satisfactory for clients. With a series of 12 treatments taken four to five days apart, it’s common for a client to drop two full clothing sizes.

PRE-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • Clean skin • No soap or lotion on skin prior to wrap • Dry brushing may be done • Drink water POST-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • Adjusting eating habits to the new size to keep weight off AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 60 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $120 Nicol McFadden is co-owner and administrative manager of Set-N-Me Free Aloe Co. A trained massage therapist, she specializes in practical methods to plan spa menus that benefit clients and business profitability. For more information, visit Set-N-Me-Free.com or call 503-666-9661.

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CAFFEINE WRAP

by Flora Vergnolle

W

raps which contain caffeine are extremely effective and have a multitude of benefits, usually there is between 3 and 5 percent of caffeine present, which is a good balance to ensure best results.

absorption of a percentage of caffeine into the blood. However the dose likely to penetrate the fat cells would be less than the quantity absorbed when drinking coffee.

WET ROOM/SHOWER: NO

WRAPS GUIDE

Caffeine is a major stimulant when it is applied to areas affected with cellulite and fatty deposits, and will effectively unclog the tissues. A caffeine wrap will help increase the metabolism, increase blood flow and facilitate the swift burning of fat in the adjoining areas. Caffeine plays an important part in the fat burning process itself.

Such body wraps are able to stimulate the process of lipolysis (fat burning), and are able to remove fat, which is accumulated in the adipocytes, the cells in which fat is stored. Caffeine is a decongestant.

Following this caffeine wrap, cellulite is visibly reduced and the tissues are effectively unclogged, resulting in skin that is smoother, softer, firmer and noticeably slimmer.

TARGET: Caffeine is an excellent, active and powerful Lipolytic (has the ability to break down fat). It causes a cascading action, which helps with the retrieval of fat cells, inhibits glucose storage and helps slow the growth of these fat cells. Adipocytes (fat cells) are located at the hypodermis, very deep into the skin. This layer is vascularized and therefore allows penetration and

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MATERIAL NEEDED: • Caffeine wrap product • Biofilm wrap • Surgical gloves • Couch cover • Spatulas • 1 blanket • Small towels • Measuring dishes DESCRIPTION OF PROTOCOL: This is an easy and straightforward treatment to perform and has little to no preparation time and very little clear up time.

The first step of the treatment consists of massaging active gels and cream into the areas of concern. The treated areas are then covered with cling film or saran wrap. The client then lies and relaxes for 30-40 minutes or 20 minutes in a heated blanket.

Take off the film and saran wrap, while the excess product is removed with tissue or steam towels. The last product is then massaged vigorously into the areas being treated. Ensure that you massage in an upward rolling action, which is important to promote fat separation.

PRE-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • It’s advisable to apply products on clean skin • Patch test advisable on clients with sensitive skin • Dry brushing may be done • Drink water POST-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • shower after 24 hour • drink a pint of water to flush out toxins • wait two to three days before waxing or using spray tan AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 60 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $85 to $180 Flora is the

Vergnolle

founder of Provence Cosmetics, which includes Bioslimming, the 5D Anti-Aging Facial and the BodyPro50 sports therapy range. She is dedicated to developing products and treatments that therapists and clients can trust to deliver incredible results.

MINERAL WRAP

by Lisa Jendza

S

TARGET: Minerals are known to nourish the thyroid and restore the electrolytes, which increases energy. The pH balance of the body is very important, and most people’s bodies are too acidic at the cellular level due to mineral deficiency.

Touted as the fountain of youth, minerals aid cellular respiration and oxygen transportation, making the client look more radiant. The bonus with this wrap is inch loss—typical results are about 1 inch all the way down the body.

WET ROOM/SHOWER: NO MATERIAL NEEDED: • Heated roasting pan • Cotton elastic bandages • Minerals • Distilled water • Bags to put on client’s feet and hands • Ponchos DESCRIPTION OF PROTOCOL: When done properly, cotton bandages are soaked in minerals reconstituted

WRAPS GUIDE

oaking cotton bandages in mineral water and wrapping the client like a mummy may not seem like a very pampering spa treatment but it’s very effective. The mineral wrap is an ancient therapy that promotes lymphatic drainage while nourishing the body with much needed minerals. It’s common to use this wrap to get a client into a dress or suit that’s too tight. This wrap is rehydrating and nourishing.

with distilled water and then used to wrap the entire body of the client, from head to toe. Compression of the whole body is necessary and must follow the lymphatic system, left leg first.

Following compression the client is soaked with more mineral water every 20 minutes for one hour. The minerals are absorbed through the skin and into the bloodstream. It’s important to use a pH of 7.0, as the pH of the skin is 5.5.

Plan on 15-20 minutes to wrap the client, 60 minutes of soaking, and 1520 minutes to unwrap.

PRE-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • Any type of sauna therapy should precede the wrap • Client should be free of skin care products • Dry brushing is highly recommended before the treatment • Drink water

POST-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • No waxing or shaving within 24 hours of receiving the treatment • No shower for 4 hours AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 1 hour and 40 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $115 to $185 Lisa Jendza is the owner of The New You Body Wraps & Wellness Spa in Utica, Mich. She followed her passion for wellness after walking away from a stressful corporate career and became a certified yoga instructor, health coach and business consultant. She worked closely with a medical professional and natural skin care manufacturer to develop her line Skin & Tonic.

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CAVIAR WRAP

by Shirin Azhdari

C

WRAPS GUIDE

aviar, once mainly known as a decadent and tasty food, has become a popular ingredient for skin care.

Caviar extract was found to speed up the natural production of collagen and is very rich in vitamins A, D, B1, B2, B6 and amino acids such as arginine and asparagine, which slow down the aging process, hydrates and firms skin.

Studies have also shown that caviar improves skin mitochondrial functions and is anti-inflammatory.

TARGET: A caviar wrap is exfoliating, detoxifying, firming and relaxing, but not designed to make clients lose inches.

WET ROOM/SHOWER: YES MATERIAL NEEDED: • Lounging table • Mylar sheet • Two towels • Plastic sheet • Caviar wrap DESCRIPTION OF PROTOCOL: The treatment is typically done in a wet room. The table is prepared with a sheet of Mylar covered with two towels, a large plastic sheet and foil. The client is instructed to lie on the table where they’ll receive a full front and back body exfoliation—count about 15-20 minutes for the exfoliation. The product is then rinsed off the client with warm water. Once the product has been removed, the firming caviar solution is

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applied. The client is wrapped with the plastic and foil in order to keep them warm for about 15 minutes. This is a good time for the practitioner to offer a neck, shoulder and scalp massage.

Once the product has had a chance to penetrate, the plastic and foil are removed and moisturizer or oil is applied on the skin.

PRE-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • Highly recommended sauna steam room to open pores • No shaving POST-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • Let the product penetrate • No shower or pool for the rest of the day AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 55 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $150

Shirin

Azhdari has been the spa manager at Voda Spa, Los Angeles, Calif., for more than three years. She started as a receptionist and within months moved up to assistant manager and into her current position. She has more than 10 years of experience in customer service and seven in the spa and hospitality business.

CHOCOLATE WRAP

by Shian Wing

C

hocolate is not only a sweet treat that enhances mood, it is also a powerhouse of nutrients, vitamins and minerals that lends itself wonderfully to cosmetics and skin care products.

Cocoa beans are packed with hundreds of substances and coveted nutrients.

TARGET: The chocolate wrap has numerous benefits for the skin. Cocoa is rich in antioxidants to support optimal skin health.

WET ROOM/SHOWER: YES MATERIAL NEEDED: • Chocolate wrap product • 1 dry skin body brush • 1 sheet of plastic (about 6 inches long and 3 inches wide) DESCRIPTION OF PROTOCOL: The treatment table is layered with tow

WRAPS GUIDE

Chocolate has copious amounts of vitamins B1, B2, B3, C and E. Chocolate is also packed with trace minerals that are important to healthy skin and stimulate collagen synthesis, such as calcium, iron, phosphorous, zinc, manganese and copper.

Studies have found that chocolate is filled with phytonutrients, some being known antioxidants and anti-inflammatory. It contains great amounts of flavonoids, which prevents oxidative damage, and cathechins (a compound of flavonoids) that prevent cell degeneration and have anti-cancer properties.

els, blankets, and plastic in preparation for the treatment. Begin with a dry skin body brush exfoliation to remove dead skin cells, followed by an application of chocolate mud with relaxing, massaging motions over the upper chest, stomach, legs, arms, hands, feet, and back—it must remain on the skin for 15 minutes. The guest is then wrapped in plastic to keep the product against the skin, a thermal blanket to hold in the guest’s body heat so the wrap does not dry out, and a wool blanket. At this time the guest is cocooned in layers of cozy blankets and receives a relaxing face and scalp massage. The product is then rinsed, the experience completed with an application of body moisturizer to hydrate and nourish the skin.

• Dry brushing may be done • Drink water POST-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • No waxing or shaving within 24 hours of receiving the treatment AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 60 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $125 Shian Wing is the Spa Director for The

PRE-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • Clean skin • No soap or lotion on skin prior to wrap

Spa at the Hotel Hershey in Hershey, Penn.

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INFRARED WRAP

by Aaron M. Flickstein, D.C.

WRAPS GUIDE

I

mmersive infrared use is reported to generate sweat containing 15 to 20 percent toxins, compared to only 3 to 5 percent in normal sweating. Immersive infrared detoxification is based on the action of heat waves to penetrate the skin and the removal of toxic substances with sweat. Ridding the body of these toxins through such a detox may help relieve symptoms, prevent future illness and increase overall health and vitality.

efits include detoxification, weight loss, pain relief, increased circulation and relaxation.

Infrared’s deep penetrating heat can result in immediate therapeutic benefits through increased blood flow and tissue oxygenation, and may also act directly on irritated nerve endings.

Clinical research has established that an infrared treatment can increase blood flow from 5 to 7 quarts per minute to as much as 13 quarts per minute. A 2008 study found that chronic pain patients experienced a 70 percent reduction in pain levels after the first infrared therapy session.

Scientific evidence also shows that immersive infrared thermotherapy helps maintain healthy levels of cortisol. Cortisol is a “fight or flight” hormone made in the adrenal glands that raises heart rate and blood pressure.

While cortisol levels stay the same or rise slightly during an infrared therapy session, the far infrared rays will drop them immediately afterward.

DESCRIPTION OF PROTOCOL: The client could elect to have another treatment added à la carte to their standard infrared body wrap. For instance, an esthetician will instruct the client to get into the body wrap: the client typically undresses, applies product to enhance the results of the session, slips into a disposable undergarment, then into the warmth of the infrared body wrap for a 30- to 60-minute session. Then after a 10-minute relaxation period, the esthetician can provide a mini-facial while the client is in the body wrap. At the conclusion of the mini facial, the esthetician would allow the client to have an additional 15-minute relaxation period, and then conclude the last 15 minutes of the treatment with a cool towel while performing a light scalp and neck massage.

TARGET: Extensive clinical research has been produced on the beneficial effects of infrared therapy. These ben50

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WET ROOM/SHOWER: NO MATERIAL NEEDED: • Disposable undergarments • Slimming cream/gel • Towels • Infrared wrap

PRE-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • Drink plenty of water. The body will produce an extensive amount of sweat during a session, so it’s important to stay hydrated.

POST-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • Drinking water after a session will assist with the flushing out of fats and toxins metabolized in one’s system following a session.

AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 30 to 60 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $60 to $175/hour

Aaron M. Flickstein, D.C. Emeritus and Clinical Director at FIT Bodywrap®, is an expert on the effects of infrared treatments and is a widely quoted author on the use of infrared heat for wellness. He has chiropractic office in Minnesota, where he continues to research the wide-ranging benefits of infrared therapy.

CLAY/MUD WRAP

by Salazar Kilroy

S

ome think of it as dirt, but in the spa industry, mud and clay rank high among the most beneficial ingredients. In ancient Rome, people would bathe in mud, which was not only seen as a cure for many ailments but also a way to prevent many conditions. It was also where people socialized—all while immersed in mud. While there are plenty of different ways to provide these amazing wraps, we present you with one infallible protocol.

TARGET: Clay and mud wraps target inch loss, tighten, smooth, firm and contour. The pressure of a clay or mud body wrap compacts the layers of tissue, resulting in toned skin and temporary loss of inches. Clay can efficiently absorb excess water from skin. These wraps also improve circulation and pain relief. The warmth provided by a clay body wrap improves circulation and relieves aches and joint pain. These wraps also target detox: Clay/mud body wraps absorb and draw out toxins in skin. Bentonite clay particles hold a negative electrical charge, while toxins have a positive charge. The negatively charged particles draw the toxins out of skin through the pores. Epsom and sea salts, which are commonly used in clay wraps, also help remove toxins from the body.

WET ROOM/SHOWER: YES

MATERIAL NEEDED: • Mud product • Plastic sheets • Towels • Plastic gloves • Biofilm wrap DESCRIPTION OF PROTOCOL: Cover the bed with towels and plastic sheeting. Have the client lie on their stomach first and apply the mud quickly and with even strokes, forming a layer a quarter inch thick. Apply the mud to the neck and back and all the way down to the legs. Help the client turn over and apply the mud to the chest, stomach, arms and legs. Once the mud is completely applied, wrap the plastic sheet on the client, allowing some space for movement. Cover the client with towels to keep the warmth of the body. Let the client relax for 30 minutes.

Unwrap the client and guide them to the shower area. Finish by applying a moisturizing cream with relaxing massage strokes.

• Wait two to three days before waxing or using spray tan AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 60 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $75-$120

PRE-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • It’s advisable to apply products on clean skin • A patch test is advisable for clients with sensitive skin • Dry brushing may be done • Drink water POST-CARE INSTRUCTIONS: • Shower after 24 hours • Drink a pint of water to flush out toxins

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Enhancing the curves!

BIOSLIMMING

JANSSEN COSMETICS

Ultra Slim Effect provencecosmetics.com

Cellulite Contour Formula janssen-southwest.com

Slims and enhances weight loss, while improving circulation to achieve firm, toned skin

Activates lipid breakdown, inhibits lipid buildup and smoothes cellulite

EXEL Body Scrub Cream exel-usa.com

Exfoliates dead skin cells, deeply cleanses the pores and contributes to a radiant glow

AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES LONDON

RHONDA ALLISON

Polishing Body Brush aromatherapyassociates.com

Ultra Exfole' Body Peel Serum rhondaallison.com

Promotes healthy circulation, removes dead skin cells, and stimulates

Provides support for tissue repair from photo-aging and skin deterioration by inducing exfoliation

Nourishes and revitalizes skin, while leaving it light and luminous using gentle mud

SALT OF THE EARTH Mineral Mud saltearthspa.com 52

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BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY Slimming & Energizing Gel bellaschneiderbeauty.com

Stimulates circulation, increases collagen levels and rejuvenates skin on the stomach and legs

Top of the line products and tools to help your clients in their quest for the perfect silhouette in between treatments.

SOTHYS Minceur Capitale sothys-usa.com

Smoothes cellulite and contributes to inch loss with a combination of botanical complex, astralagus root and green coffee extracts.

Reduces cellulite, stimulates breakdown of fat, detoxifies and inhibits accumulation of new fat

Assists the slimming process with aloe vera, and sweet orange peel

FIT BODYWRAP Fit Booster fitbodywrap.com

SKIN & TONIC Natural Slimming Aid skin-and-tonic.com

THALGO DĂŠfi FermetĂŠ thalgousa.com

Firms the deeper layers of skin on the stomach and waist with zingiber extract

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ILIKE IMAGE SKINCARE body Spa CELL.U.LIFT imageskincare.com Fights skin laxity on a cellular level with EPP™ Complex to strengthen collagen fibers

Circulation Revitalizing Body Lotion szepelet.com Improves the appearance of firmness and tone with spicy hot paprika

Combines the detoxifying properties of jade with the invigorating powers of ginseng and caffeine

JADE Jade & Ginseng Body Sculpting Cellulite Serum jadience.com

Stimulates the lipolysis, promotes micro-circulation, and activates lymphatic drainage

MIRAKLE Eliminik Reduktor Gel mirakkle.com Corrects the appearance of imperfections with multi-performance peptides, green tea, caffeine and more

Smoothes and tightens targeted areas, improving the appearance of skin texture and cellulite

HYDROPEPTIDE Firming Moisturizer hydropeptide.com

CIRCADIA Professional Firming and Shaping Gel circadia.com

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ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKINCARE Herbal Cellulite Treatment eminenceorganics.com

SPRAYOLOGY Diet Power sprayology.com

Regenerates and tones to help increase the appearance of elasticity with paprika and stinging nettle

Helps balance metabolism and relieves common symptoms of a reducing diet such as low energy

Delivers nourishing vitamins and minerals with sea kelp, while removing impurities Improves inch loss results and smoothes uneven skin texture by removing toxins

MAKES SCENTS NATURAL SPA LINE

Sea Sanctuary Hand Made Body Wrap makesscentsspaline.com

M'LIS Firms skin and smoothes cellulite with aloe vera, rose, pink grapefruit and orange blossom water

CELL-U-RID mlis.com

BELLA DI TERRA Bella Firming Body Spray belladiterra.com Reinforces the skin’s support structure and helps repair existing stretch marks

APOTHEDERM Stretch Mark Cream apothederm.com

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LNEONLINE.COM Contact us today for your free show program: 1.800.471.0229 56

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USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664

THE TRENDSETTER OF WELLNESS & SPA

LONG BEACH, CA SEPT 20 & 21, 2015 AT THE LONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER

INNOVATE. Main Stage Lectures and Demos Business Conference Marketing Conference Retail Conference Med Spa Business Conference Wellness Conference

Image Conference Massage Conference Spa DĂŠcor Conference AIA Conference Product Focused Training Hundreds of Exhibitors

PRESENTED BY

ENDORSED BY

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FINE AS

CREAM GRAVY

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa

Dallas, Texas 2015

by Nathalie Gouillou

H

undreds of people collapsed to the floor. Men and women, young and old, dropped on their backs and shook their limbs in the air as Carlos Vives’ spicy Latin tune “Fruta Fresca” played loudly. As people lay on the ground, hands and arms wavering, they looked at each other, exchanging smiles and laughter, while yogi EuGene Gant led the mass vibration.

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“Yes, yes, yes, this love is so deep…” said the lyrics in Spanish.

The love was deep indeed! That’s how we like it at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa— brought together by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines—and our show in Dallas, Texas, on April 26 and 27 was no exception.

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“I’m here to take a look at the new products of the year and get a clue of the best,” said an excited Lastenia Oramas, owner of Laly Spa in Houston, Texas, moments before Gant took the Main Stage by storm with his invigorating and unique yoga demonstration that involved dance moves and some comical poses.

“I’m here to soak up as much information as I can!” chimed in a spa director from Utah, who disappeared among the crowd before we could get her name and that of her spa.

Unique, fun, educational, top of the line and beyond trendy, that’s The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa. “I must say, this year was one of the best shows that we have attended so far,” said Dar Reiss-Depp, CEO and President of RD Management, distributor of Académie Scientifique de Beauté and Matis-Paris. Tina Zillmann, founder of Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts and Skin Rejuvenation Clinique, Inc., with various locations in San Antonio, Texas, concurred. “The Dallas show was very busy, the attendees were seeking out new treatments and equipment to bring to their clients. Excellent show!”

GETTING DOWN TO BUSINESS We not only treated our thousands of guests with empowering demonstrations of Shakti Naam yoga on both days, but in the Lone-Star state we also like to throw in our nationwide famous hoedown—our yearly barbecue party, Yee-haw!

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7 And it’s not just party and fun; when we get down to business, we do it just right.

From top speakers in the industry enlightening attendees at the Main Stage, to scores of educational conferences with spa leaders and a wealth of product focused training from the finest brands, the show was a powerhouse of skin care, beauty and wellness expertise.

Then there was the floor packed with hundreds of exhibitors covering the very best in the spa world ready to show off their latest technologies, equipment, treatments and products.

“I have had a wonderful time participating in this year’s congress in Dallas!” said Bella Schneider, CEO of Bella Schneider Beauty. “The hosts treated the attendees and vendors with generosity, kindness, and true Southern graciousness. The attendance was incredible!”

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between rosacea and sensitive skin. Le Mieux’s Janel Luu wowed the crowd with her demonstration of the ancient Eastern art of facial rejuvenation, Tina Zillmann of Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts delved into the topic of acne, while entrepreneur and day spa owner Mary Turner closed Sunday’s Main Stage Conference with tips on eyelash extensions.

DAY 2 Monday’s demonstration started with Schneider, who shared her secrets on custom facials. International Dermal Institute Director Annet King empowered the crowd with her talk on creating the ultimate service experience, while Anabel de la Vega, a highly respected Florida instructor, kept attendees on the edge with her inspiring demonstration of the ancient art of fire cupping.

“I MUST SAY, THIS YEAR WAS ONE OF THE BEST SHOWS THAT WE HAVE ATTENDED SO FAR.”

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-Dar Reiss-Depp, CEO and President of RD Management

MAIN STAGE CONFERENCE Dermascope’s Will Strunk kicked off the Main Stage Conference—sponsored

by GlyMed Plus and Bella Schneider Beauty—on both days with welcoming words, followed by Gant’s invigorating yoga demonstrations.

Shannon Esau, national director of education and accounts for Rhonda Allison educated attendees on the differences

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Finally Melissa Black of Bombshell Salons and Candy Coat Beauty revealed her tricks to keep waxing clients comfortable in all kind of odd situations.

AND MORE “I love the education, I’m always looking for the next big thing,” said Robin Page, an esthetician and skin care operator at Trophy Gym in Dallas, Texas.

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The event also featured more than 50 product focused classes and seven conferences where spa leaders shared their knowledge and expertise in business, medical spa business, retail, and marketing, as well as the latest in massage, wellness, and image.

“This is my first [show]!” said an overwhelmed and excited Michelle Cole, a massage therapist from Ardmore, Okla. “I came to learn and expand my business. There’s so much stuff!”

“I HAVE HAD A WONDERFUL TIME PARTICIPATING IN THIS YEAR’S CONGRESS IN DALLAS! -Bella Schneider, CEO of Bella Schneider Beauty 14

COME ON BY! And on Sunday evening, attendees and exhibitors got to eat, dance, and mingle at the famed annual barbecue party.

“There is nothing more rewarding than interacting with other professionals as they thrive to improve their range of knowledge and skill,” said Jon McDaniel, vice president of GlyMed Plus. “It is always great to see the inspiration presenters and attendees exchange as we energize each other with industry awareness and growth.”

Need we say more? Come and join us next year at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Dallas on May 15 and 16, 2016. It’s only two hoots and a holler away!

1. Yogi EuGene Gant energizing the crowd 2. Rhonda Allison booth 3. Circadia booth 4. FarmHouse Fresh booth 5. Celluma booth 6. Éminence Organic Skin Care booth 7. Miss Texas at Infinity Sun Booth 8. Chris Pachuilo of HydroPeptide 9. Christina Cosmeceuticals USA booth 10. Glymed Plus booth 11. Attendees on our red carpet 12. Morgan Roy of Jindilli performing protocol 13. Platinum Equipment booth 14. Bella Schneider and team 15. Mineralogie Makeup booth 16. Robert Babik and Niles Tagliamonte of EndoSystems, LLC. 17. Revitalash booth 18. Dermapen booth 19. Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts booth 20. Crowded Main Stage entrance

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F O L L O W T H E I N T E R N AT I O N A L C O N G R E S S O F E S T H E T I C S A N D S PA O N

2015 Dates : Long Beach, Calif., September 20-21 | Philadelphia, Penn., October 25-26

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SPA

OF THE

MONTH

P U R E S PA AT PELICAN GRAND BEACH RESORT FORT LAUDERDALE, FLA.

S C A N D I N A V I A N DELIGHT

P

erhaps inspiration came whisking by with the fresh sea breeze. Perhaps it was the calming sound of the waves crashing against the sand, or the spectacular view of the vast blue ocean… Whatever it might have been, it was standing on the rooftop terrace of his 11th floor hotel that Bo Jertshagen’s “Aha!” moment came to be—what Pelican Grand Beach Resort needed was a spa.

A year later, Pure Spa was born, its doors just opening this month and bringing South Florida (Pelican Grand is located on Fort Lauderdale’s surfside, less than 35 miles away from Miami) a unique combination of Nordic wellness heritage and tropical paradise, with a simple philosophy: where Scandinavia meets South Florida.

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by

Nathalie Gouillou

“We have brought the exotic Scandinavian feeling of well being to Fort Lauderdale,” says Cassandra Jertshagen, daughter of owner Bo Jertshagen, who spearheaded the design as well as formulated the concepts for the spa. For the Jertshagens it was about celebrating their Swedish heritage, elegance and simplicity, while taking advantage of the beauty that surrounds them.

Of course it took a bit more than a eureka moment on a rooftop for the idea of a spa to come along. Guests, says Cassandra Jertshagen, had voiced their wish for a place that would allow them to stay healthy and be pampered on site—and at Pelican Grand what the guest wants, the guest gets.

THE MAKING O F A S PA “For me the essentials when creating a spa is to have our own story,” says Cassandra Jertshagen. “We need to know what we stand for and why. Attention to details and design that feels good for our guests and team members is very important to me.”

If developing a story for the spa was crucial, other critical elements came to the table: location, demographics, competition, return on investment, and manpower.

“Finding people in the industry that not only understand but follow their individual passion for what they do is very important,” says George Powell-Lopez, spa director of Pure Spa. “Putting the right person in the right job at the right time is essential to success.”

STAFF With an emphasis on intimate and luxurious services, Pure Spa has gathered a team of a dozen practitioners, most of whom have dual licensures, allowing the spa to maximize their operation and provide guests with more services, and offer an exceptional experience without having to change treatment rooms.

Staff was primarily screened through an agency, followed by face-to-face interviews that included practical treatment sessions where therapists conducted services on leadership team members. “The real key is to hire individuals that have a high level of emotional intelligence, being able to tune in to each and every guest,” says Powell-Lopez. “When it all fits well together we have found our match.”

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spa | spa of the month

TRAINING If vendors have provided their expert technical product knowledge and will continue to do so, guest service, hotel and general training are part of the spa director’s role. “Our spa director comes to us with 20 years of experience on multiple levels of spa management,” says Cassandra Jertshagen. “Not only will he be training in the services for refreshers but also providing massage and body treatment services. Repetition in training is much easier for a small group of team members but even more important. A 5 Star level of service is our formatted goal. We also team with the HR department so that we are inclusive of all resort training and in reverse training the non-spa team members about Pure Spa.”

In addition to monthly team meetings, Pure Spa plans on having speedy daily line ups to discuss in house VIPs, what to expect on that particular day and “any items that may impact daily operation, weather and group listings,” says Powell-Lopez.

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FEAT Staff performance will be reviewed starting at 90 days, then six months and one year. “Goals are set for them to increase their knowledge in their field and also challenge them with meeting financial goals,” says Powell-Lopez. “For the first year it is a module that is a little more challenging but after a year you have the opportunity to look back at the data and set individual goals for each team member. Guest satisfaction and guest surveys will also be a part of this review process.”

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spa | spa of the month

CLIENTELE The spa has been gathering momentum for its opening by keeping its guests in the know about the construction going on and what they should expect on their next potential visit. The excitement says Powell-Lopez, has also come “quite naturally.”

Their clientele, says Powell-Lopez, will be “sophisticated guests with high expectations;” hotel guests whom they’ll entice during their stay through the typical means (in-room television, card keys, confirmation emails with information about the spa…), and through complimentary services on the beach such as hand massages to promote the spa.

While a greater woman to man ratio is anticipated at the beginning, Powell-Lopez expects for a shift to come soon enough as the spa offers unique services to cater to primarily men’s conferences and meetings, as well as samesex wedding packages.

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“WE HAVE BROUGHT THE EXOTIC SCANDINAVIAN FEELING OF WELL-BEING TO FORT LAUDERDALE.” - Cassandra Jertshagen

LOYALTY PROGRAM If the introduction of a loyalty program is still on the table for the future, the spa doesn’t anticipate the creation of a membership.

Restore Youth and Volume Consistently our best seller, Power Serum is a powerpacked combination of 8 volumizing and plumping peptides that offer results from the 1st application.

Power Serum also contains the 3 most advanced muscle relaxation peptides available. Limiting these contractions allow for greater repair and restoration.

A Healthy Preservative System 2 Probiotic peptides affect the health and appearance of the skin by improving skin clarity, combating dryness, and enhancing anti-aging all while preserving product effectiveness. .

Enhance Your Protocols Easily incorporate Power Serum into your current machine offerings to amplify results. Call now to receive protocols for microdermabrasion, waterdermabrasion, LED, laser, micro-needling, ultrasound, and microcurrent.

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Speak with a representative at 1.800.932.9873 to receive samples and our new white paper on Power Serum. HydroPeptide offers your clients the star treatment with immediate post-facial results and home care regimens that are as effective as they are luxurious.

www.HydroPeptide.com

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spa | spa of the month

MARKETING

If opening a new spa certainly comes with an array of challenges (construction, permits, structural issues, inspections, weather delays, the investment of hiring a team to only name a few), the pride and joy that come with completion are… priceless.

“In general it is an advantage to be the newest spa,” says Cassandra Jertshagen, “people get very excited and interested in what is new.”

spa.pelicanbeach.com

Their spa food menu created by Chef Michael Bloise (who has worked in many of the very best kitchens in South Florida) is set to make some noise and attract the curiosity of people looking to indulge in healthy and flavorful foods.

The spa is also counting on its concierge referral program that will include the condominiums in the immediate vicinity to bring locals special promotions and offers.

In addition, their online presence is a strong point of focus that delivers the story of the spa and gives visitors a hint of what they are to experience. Then there is what Powell-Lopez refers to as a spa’s best friend—word of mouth.

FACTS 2000 North Ocean Blvd, Fort Lauderdale, Fla. 33305 Launched in June 2015 Owned by Bo Jertshagen FACILITY: • Interior: 1,515 square feet • Terrace: 1,470 square feet • 126 guest rooms, including 92 suites • Two multi-purpose treatment rooms, a nail room with two mani/pedi stations, a spa suite, two massage cabanas overlooking the Atlantic ocean.

STAFF: • A dozen dual licensed therapists

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PRODUCT LINES USED AND RETAILED: Maria Åkerberg, Jason International, Global Lighting, SpaRitual, Jelly Bean, Babor, Coola Suncare, The Madison Collection, Tara, Soy Delicious SIGNATURE TREATMENTS The Luxury Facial, Pure You Facial, Pure You Massage, and Atlantic View Bathing Ritual

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s degree in International Relations. Contact her at nathalie@lneonline.com.

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CURVALICIOUS! THE LATEST IN HIGH-TECH

BODY CONTOURING TREATMENTS

By Kristin Groop

A

s a busy skin care professional, I am able to keep up with trends easily by listening to my clients. Over the past couple of years, clients have been increasingly inquiring about alternatives to surgery for both fat loss and skin tightening.

Of course, many have tried exercising and dieting, but want help eliminating fat and tightening the skin.

Sorting out the technologies available for body contouring can be confusing, and there is quite a bit of hype surrounding these procedures. After talking with doctors and machine manufacturers and reading peer-reviewed research, I have organized these technologies by energy source.

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spa | curvalicious

RADIO FREQUENCY Radio frequency (RF) is a common type of energy used in body contouring, and is based on the use of an oscillating electrical current to create heat in the tissue. RF targets water in the tissue, and because it does not specifically target pigment, it can be used on different skin types. However, because the RF energy is still creating heat inside the tissue, skin temperature and settings must be carefully monitored to minimize the risk of burns.

When water in the dermis is targeted, some research shows that the structure of the existing collagen is changed (tightened), and there is evidence that new collagen is formed (neocollagenesis). This is the commonly proposed mechanism of action to explain the skin tightening effect and the modest reduction in wrinkles.

When water in the adipose layer is targeted, it is thought that the metabolism of the fat cells (adipocytes) is increased, and in some cases, fat cells are destroyed and triglycerides broken down. This is the prevailing hypothesis behind the fat loss effect.

TYPES OF

When water in the dermis is targeted, some research shows that the structure of the existing collagen is changed (tightened), and there is evidence that new collagen is formed (neocollagenesis).

RF is a generic name for several specific technologies, monopolar RF, unipolar RF, and bipolar RF. While each of these technologies applies the RF energy in a slightly different manner, all three create thermal stimulation within the dermis and to a lesser extent, in adipose tissue.

RADIO FREQUENCY: MONOPOLAR In this form of RF, the client is grounded, which means the energy, when delivered through the skin, ultimately ends up in the grounding pad placed on the client. There are different methods of delivering monopolar RF energy. One method involves the constant motion of the handpiece on the skin. Based on my own experience, this method seems to be easier for the client to tolerate, as it avoids creating “hot spots� on the skin in the treatment area.

Another variation of body contouring monopolar RF technologies is a device that delivers a series of stamped, single pulses. In some cases, this method may allow hot spots to develop, as the handpiece is kept stationary on one area for up to four minutes.

BIPOLAR In this form of RF there are two poles (a positive and a negative), which are usually built into the handpiece. The energy travels between the two poles, eliminating the need for a grounding pad. The penetration depth of the energy is determined by how far apart the two poles are on the handpiece.

UNIPOLAR In this form of RF, there is no grounding pad, and only one electrode being used. The energy being emitted is much like a radio tower that broadcasts signals in every direction.

According to several manufacturers, unipolar RF penetrates deeper than bipolar RF, and thus can effectively target deeper adipose layers.

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AREAS OF COVERAGE RF devices are used for both facial and body contouring. For body contouring, the most commonly treated body parts are the abdomen, flanks (love handles), upper arms, inner and outer thighs and knees.

SETTINGS Settings should be according to the manufacturers’ parameters, which usually focus on temperature. Aim for 45 degrees Celsius (113 degrees Fahrenheit). Hold that temperature on the treatment area for three to four minutes.

CAUTION Although radio frequency is considered “color blind”, hyperpigmentation can be induced by heat. Caution should be used in treating the darkest skin types, and the treatment area must be carefully monitored to avoid the creation of hotspots. One technique I have learned to assist in reducing the chance of hotspots is to expand the treatment area.

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RADIO FREQUENCY

spa | curvalicious

SIDE EFFECTS There are common side effects associated with radio frequency such as erythema, uncomfortable heat and possible blistering. With proper training and techniques, the risk of these effects is significantly decreased.

CONTRAINDICATIONS Pace makers and internal defibrillators are the biggest contraindications for radio frequency. Treatment must also be avoided in any area that contains any type of metal implant.

Other contraindications include certain cardiac disorders and pregnancy.

Although radio frequency is considered “color blind�, hyperpigmentation can be induced by heat. Caution should be used in treating the darkest skin types.

Radio frequency prices for body contouring range from $200 for a small area to more than $1,000 for a large area. Many spas offer package deals. Treatments are performed two to three weeks apart. Most clients require six to eight treatments, and annual maintenance treatments are usually needed.

COST OF MACHINES The cost of a new device will be around $90,000 with certified pre-owned prices starting around $35,000. Some of the devices require disposables to be used for the treatments, so you will have additional costs.

PROS/CONS The stamping method is very easy to learn, but the in motion method may require more training to master.

Biomani is the vital difference that brings your skin to life. Biomani SkinCare products provide the latest, most advanced ingredients for the protection of skin against the effects of time and environment. Biomani advanced bio-formulation of moisture smoothes fine lines, hydrates with a touch that stays light and protects from the daily effects of dryness. The results are impressive, younger-looking skin with visible renewed texture and an after glow that lasts. Try Biomani today and you will receive compliments galore.

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Our program integrates conventional aesthetics with para-medical knowledge and prepares aestheticians, cosmetologists and nurses to perform European as well as advanced skin care techniques. The classes are small and one-on-one hands-on training on live models.

The program is carried out on scientific and no-nonsense advanced aesthetics knowledge and skills. (Financing is available) As of May 1st, 2015, we will submit to the board 4 hours of CE that are required to renew your cosmetology/aesthetician license (TX ONLY).

Laser Certification Program

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Our program focus and teaches in depth to certify aestheticians, cosmetologists, nurses and doctors to practice laser skin techniques and modalities safely and precisely. Our classes are limited to 6 students so that our faculty make sure each student is capturing the knowledge he/she needs to in laser skin care, allowing them to achieve there new goal and career. (Financing is available) As of May 1st, 2015, we will submit to the board 4 hours of CE that are required to renew your cosmetology/aesthetician license (TX ONLY).

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TREATMENT TIME, FREQUENCY AND PRICE

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ULTRASOUND In addition to RF energy, there are body contouring machines that incorporate ultrasound (sound waves). There are two different types of ultrasound technology being used: focused pulsed ultrasound and high intensity focused ultrasound.

AREAS OF COVERAGE Common areas for treatment with focused pulsed ultrasound include the lower and upper abdomen, the hips, flanks, as well as the inner and outer thighs.

SETTINGS Treatments are usually measured in pulses, not heat.

HOW IT WORKS Focused ultrasound waves will oscillate fat cells until they implode, which is a process called cavitation. Cavitation disrupts the fat cell membrane. Bubbles are created in the

fluid between the cells, which cause the surrounding fat cells to implode and be liquefied. This mechanical acoustic effect can cause selective fat cell disruption without injury to other structures.

CONTRAINDICATIONS Contraindications to focused pulsed ultrasound treatments include pregnancy, skin ulcerations in the area, infection or skin cancer directly in the area of treatment. It shouldn’t be used over bony areas, tattoos or scars.

TREATMENT TIME, FREQUENCY AND PRICE Usually, three treatments per area are required at a twoweek interval for optimum efficacy. They are usually sold in a package of three, and pricing tends to range from $2,500 to $3,000 for the package.

COST OF MACHINES The cost of a new device will be around $150,000. The treatments require disposables, so there are additional costs.

PROS/CONS: Depending on the machine being used, the results for the client may be directly related to technique practiced.

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HIGH INTENSITY FOCUSED ULTRASOUND (HIFU) AREA OF COVERAGE Common areas for treatment include the lower/upper abdomen, and flanks.

HOW IT WORKS HIFU works by heating the target tissue above 56 degrees Celcius. This causes molecular vibrations that destroy fat cells and tissue (via ablation), subsequently reducing the fat layer with the body’s normal inflammatory response, eliminating the cellular debris.

CONTRAINDICATIONS Contraindications include pregnancy, skin ulcerations in the area, infection or skin cancer directly in the area of treatment. It shouldn’t be used over scars.

SIDE EFFECTS Pain, bruising, tenderness, hard lumps and swelling. Most clients need some type of pain management for the procedure to be tolerable.

TREATMENT TIME, FREQUENCY AND PRICE Currently published protocols indicate that usually, only one treatment is done, but prices can range from $1,500 to $3,000 per area.

COST OF MACHINES The cost of a new device will be around $90,000 with certified preowned prices starting around $35,000. Some of the devices require disposables to be used for the treatments, so there are additional costs.

PROS/CONS Because some pain management may be necessary, medication may need to be prescribed, which requires a medical professional.

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CONTROLLED COOLING (CRYOLIPOLYSIS)

PROS/CONS: The fat that’s being treated must be soft, and the amount must be capable of fitting into the applicator. However there must be enough fat in the area being treated in order to perform this treatment.

AREA OF COVERAGE Common areas for treatment include the lower and upper abdomen, flanks and thighs.

HOW IT WORKS The principle behind cryolipolysis is the premise that adipocytes (fat cells) are more susceptible to cold than other cells. The precise application of cold temperatures triggers apoptosis (cell death) of the fat cells, which invokes the inflammatory response. This leads to slow elimination of debris by surrounding macrophages.

CONTRAINDICATIONS

Treatments to spot reduce fat or tighten the skin are a big focus in the esthetic industry. Technology is beginning to offer solutions to help these problem areas, providing a great opportunity for the spa industry. n

Kristin Groop is the creator and CEO of the Esthetic Advisor Laser Academy®.

Groop is a licensed esthetician, esthetic instructor, certified laser technician and instructor. Her EstheCeuticals® line of skin care products is designed for microneedling and laser treatments. Groop also invented the SkinStylus® Microneedling System. Contact Groop at 480.656.4481 or estheticadvisor@gmail.com.

Cold sensitive disorders, Reynaud’s disease and pregnancy.

Side effects include temporary redness to the skin, bruising, and transient numbness that usually resolves within two weeks following treatment.

TREATMENT TIME, FREQUENCY AND PRICE There will be one or two treatments, usually performed eight weeks apart to allow for the inflammatory process to resolve.

Pricing is typically $700 for one area/one treatment with discounts on additional areas.

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SIDE EFFECTS

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

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FRUITY SCRUB Cuccio Naturale’s Sea Salt Moisturizing Exfoliant is a double exfoliation hydrating system that starts out with magnesium sulfate crystals that round off to give smoothness to the skin, says the company. Papaya contains papain and vitamin A to help condition skin, while guava contains antioxidants, vitamins A and C for soft, silky skin.

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CERTIFIED QUALITY SYSTEM 2015

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LNE & SPA

CHAT with Shirin Azhdari

Spa Manager at Voda Spa in Los Angeles, Calif.

Shirin Azhdari has been the spa manager at Voda Spa, Los Angeles, Calif., for more than three years. She started as a receptionist and within months moved up to assistant manager and eventually into her current position. She has more than 10 years of experience in customer service and seven in the spa and hospitality business.

If I could travel anywhere in the world I would go to the Maldives.

It’s a complete escape from reality, just what you imagine when you think of a gateway, the crystal blue waters…

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WHAT WOULD YOU SAY ARE YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGES? Selecting employees who care about the spa and wellness industry as much as the owner and I do. We have some great people; we need happy and uplifting people. We’re also a huge facility and we at times have had some technical difficulties. We also have a full bar so we might have clients who’ve had one too many drinks. In which case we give them food and water and let them know that we’re here for them—worst-case scenario, we’ll escort them out.

HOW DO YOU MANAGE STRESS THAT WORK BRINGS INTO YOUR LIFE? I’m an avid hiker. I also go to barre fitness classes and I try to get regular treatments.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT YOUR JOB? I enjoy what the spa industry is all about, making people feel good, making employees feel proud—generally the feel good aspect.

DESCRIBE THE CONCEPT OF YOUR SPA? We are based on the Russian spa tradition, it’s more of a social spa atmosphere that encourages family, groups of friends, colleagues to gather. It’s also more modern and masculine.

HOW DO YOU SELECT THE PEOPLE THAT ARE GOING TO WORK WITH YOU? For our service providers, we want to make sure that they have good length of employment, no large gap in employment history. Then we’ll do a practical for massage therapists and a facial for estheticians. We look for

dia, but our latest has been more internal cross promoting among our service providers. For example at the end of a service, estheticians will offer an aromatherapy upgrade for massage to incentivize the client to book a massage session. There’s no dollar amount value attached.

people who are well spoken and represent our brand.

HOW DO YOU TRAIN THE STAFF? We have leads in every department who give out the protocols depending on each department. We sometimes have a loyal client get a complimentary treatment to get their feedback.

We also send out newsletters with our bi-weekly checks that discuss goals, the services to focus on, describe our seasonal packages, and we also attach complimentary guest passes for them to share with friends or family to keep them motivated. We’re such a big facility that gathering all providers at once is sometimes unrealistic.

WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR MARKETING TECHNIQUES? We do engage in email, social me-

DO YOU HOLD SPECIAL EVENTS OR PROMOTIONS AT CERTAIN TIMES OF THE YEAR? We’ve started with skin care events where a rep comes out and brings samples. It’s by invitation only.

Estheticians do demos, we have a drawing for a free facial and 20 percent off product purchases on that day. We have specials for every holiday, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day… Black Friday is our biggest at the spa.

For every $100 gift card purchase we offer services valued at $100 broken down in four $25 vouchers that can be used only at certain dates. There’s no limit to amount for gift card purchases.

WHAT ARE YOUR RETAIL GOALS? That’s an area we’re looking at expanding. When the building was designed there was no real boutique planned. Retail products are in a display case, locked in a glass door and you need an associate to help you. It’s an area we’re working on. We do have a 10 percent commission offered to service providers, and they also get a

2 percent commission if clients specifically request them by name.

HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR CUSTOMERS LOYAL? We check in with them after every single visit. If during their visit the steam room breaks down, we’ll invite them back for a complimentary use. We do our best to make sure nobody leaves feeling like we didn’t care. n

Voda Spa, Los Angeles, Calif.

• 15,000 square feet.

• Treatment rooms and amenities: six massage rooms, including two couple suites, two esthetics rooms, three saunas, one steam room, one pool, one Jacuzzi, one cold plunge, one relaxation lounge, one nail salon, one outdoor patio, a VIP suite with its own Jacuzzi, sauna and massage room.

• Favorite treatment: the Voda Platza, a unique Russian sauna treatment that includes the use of a Venik, leafy, fragrant bundles of oak or birch soaked in warm water that is used to strike the skin to draw out impurities and improve circulation.

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ALL IN ONE Update your social media platforms with a snap of your fingers!

by Louis Silberman

I

t’s no secret that social media can be a useful tool in building and maintaining an online presence and extending the reach of a business’ geographic area. When you think about it, social media is really just another form of advertising—albeit one that is much more affordable and interactive than its expensive siblings, television and print.

Postings, blogs and tweets from popular sites such as Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, WordPress and more allow you to regularly engage with both current and future customers.

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business | all in one

But just as one commercial every few years or a single bulk mailing probably won’t help you establish your business’ core identity, posting on social media “once in a blue moon” won’t either. Sure, you might pick up a new customer or two, but what you really want is to build a loyal clientele.

To maximize social media’s potential, business owners need to stay in front of their audience on a fairly regular basis; however, many business owners make the common mistake of starting out strong and then losing momentum as their business grows. Or, in an attempt to get any sort of content “out there,” they post regularly but their content isn’t well thought out or particularly meaningful to their customers.

Social media management systems (SMMS) such as Hootsuite and Sprout Social are the answer to many small business’ social media prayers.

So, just how much time should business owners spend on social media?

It’s a legitimate concern. After all, it’s time (or the lack of it) that’s often the culprit for inconsistent social media activity.

When you’re posting regularly, many customers quickly catch on to your schedule and look forward to your posts; the problem is, when you’re silent, they just as quickly lose interest or assume you’re no longer engaged. That’s why social media management systems (SMMS) such as Hootsuite and Sprout Social are the answer to many small business’ social media 88

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prayers, making it easier than ever before to manage multiple channels by monitoring, posting and scheduling tasks for both individuals and teams. The systems are web-based (no downloads required), fairly user friendly and relatively affordable. A basic Hootsuite subscription is free, then starts at $10 a month for premium services. Sprout Social is more expensive, starting at $59 per user per month.

For business owners who post frequently and depend heavily on customer interaction, SMMS sites can be a lifesaver. However, as appealing as the idea of these systems may be, don’t automatically assume that every feature offered is suitable for all businesses, all the time.

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business | all in one Before you jump on any social media dashboard, I suggest you first take a moment to ask yourself the following critical questions:

What are my current business goals? Am I focusing right now on increasing sales or more on networking?

Here’s an overview of what Hootsuite and Sprout Social can do for you:

How much time and money can I realistically spend on social media?

Update all of your selected accounts simultaneously (no need to post to Facebook, then Twitter, then LinkedIn, etc.).

Most importantly, who are my current and desired customers?

Share videos and pictures, using both words and images to better communicate with your audience.

Manage multiple accounts, pages and profiles.

If your typical client is a working, college-educated wife and mother in her late thirties, you’ll want to focus your efforts on the social media venues she is likelier to use and consider the frequency of posts that might appeal to her. She may not appreciate multiple Tweets daily, whereas if your client is a single woman in her early twenties, a higher volume of activity may be just right. That’s not to say that over time, you can’t expand your clientele to include other demographics.

But the last thing you want to do is spin your wheels pursuing small returns on your investments (time and money) at the expense of your current customer.

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Pre-schedule updates and posts either at a user-chosen or high traffic time.

Analyze follower activity, all in one place.

While users debate the strengths and weaknesses of both platforms, there’s some general consensus that Hootsuite is the preferred choice for team collaboration, simply because of its pricing structure. At the Pro or $9.99/month level, two people can edit the same account (perfect for an individual service provider or two-person operation), whereas with Sprout Social, each user must set up a unique account at $59/month. That can really add up for a large spa with multiple users.

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As far as pricing goes, Hootsuite is arguably geared more toward the small business owner, at least at its first and second pricing levels (though its third tier can accommodate up to 500,000 team members). However, when it comes to analytics, Hootsuite’s reports can get pricey. There are a few free reports available but the more advanced versions are going to cost you. Sprout Social’s reports, on the other hand, are included in your monthly fee.

For customer support, many users prefer Sprout Social because it offers complimentary training and support, as well as a more attractive and easily navigated design. Hootsuite also offers some training at the basic level but enhanced technical support only at the top end of its pricing tier.

As appealing as the idea of these systems may be, don’t automatically assume that every feature offered is suitable for all businesses, all the time.

If you’re struggling to decide which of these SMMS sites might work for you, take both of them for a test drive. Each offers a 30-day free trial and several options regarding the number of social profiles you can link together, based on price.

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business | all in one Finally, remember that social media is not just about communicating your thoughts and opinions; it should also be about listening to those of others. These days, taking the time to comment positively on others’ posts is a polite necessity. Responding to customers’ complaints and concerns is a professional requirement. And sharing appropriate posts that are meaningful to others in your community is just good business sense. Have fun creating your own social media community!

And now, a few thoughts on social media content. Social media is so much more than just posting cute selfies or random musings; it provides you with a unique opportunity to create a solid, relevant customer community with the added bonus of both instant and long-term feedback. Know who she is before you start over-sharing via social media. What other types of products or services is she purchasing? What type of content is she sharing or re-tweeting? What types of posts would interest her? What special offers might prompt her to book an appointment with you?

Learn more about how to use social media to benefit your practice from “Social Platforms for the Esthetician,” featured in the March 2015 edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. n

Louis Silberman is president and founder of National Laser Institute. He is an expert in medical esthetics, a medical spa owner and a nationally recognized author, marketing speaker and business consultant. Silberman can be contacted at 800.982.6817 or louis@nlionline.com.

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HOW TO

HANDLE N E G AT I V E ONLINE FEEDBACK

by Mara Shorr

S

ocial media has become one of the most important and relevant forms of marketing, advertising and brand communication. Social media is a dialogue, not a monologue. It’s a platform where clients can give feedback— some of which will inevitably be negative. So how do you, as a business/brand, handle negative feedback and complaints for the benefit of both your business and the client?

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business | how to handle negative online feedback

Step

1

Be prepared that not all of your online “friends” or “fans” will treat you as such While the majority of your reviews will most likely glow as much as your clients’ freshly treated skin, you’re bound to see not-so-kind reviews as well. That’s only natural, and to be expected from time to time.

EXAMPLE Perhaps a client had to wait too long on the phone or in your reception area. Or maybe a guest didn’t see the results they hoped for, and decided to take it up with you via Facebook or Yelp instead of by phone or in person. Perhaps a client didn’t follow the post or pre-procedure directions you specifically outlined, leaving them with a bad reaction. Whatever the reason for a negative review—whether its deserved or not—it’s important to be prepared for this type of public feedback and remain calm.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

Step

2

Respond promptly It’s of the utmost importance to acknowledge your client’s negative review; lack of a response sends the message that you don’t care about your client’s feelings, or that you don’t take the time to monitor your social media channels and review sites. However, be careful how you respond and how much information you give away. This is particularly essential if you practice medicine and must adhere to HIPAA guidelines.

EXAMPLE Respond within 24 hours; this demonstrates that you care about the client’s concern. In addition, set up email alerts on your review sites so you know right away when someone posts a review. Also make sure to utilize Google alerts so that every time your name or your business name is posted on the Internet, you’re made aware of it.

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photo: aradaphotography / Shutterstock.com

business | how to handle negative online feedback

Offer a solution

Step

3

Always start out with an apology—not an admission of wrongdoing if the circumstances don’t warrant one, but an apology that your client feels the way they do. Work to calm the situation and fix the issue, whether it’s real or perceived.

EXAMPLE Explain your mission: to please your clients, provide excellent customer service, leave your clients with skin they’re proud to show off, etc. Explain why the problem may have occurred—but give an explanation, not an excuse. In other words, be humble. Did you run a weekly special and have an unexpectedly large response, causing you to overbook your appointments or understaff your phones, for instance? Did you experience a software glitch that left out a patient’s automatic appointment reminder? Apologize, and explain how you’re going to correct the problem, both with that particular client, and with other clients moving forward. Thank them for bringing the issue to your attention.

Step

4

Highlight your strengths Emphasize how you’re committed to solving the problem. Let the client know that this is not your typical client experience, and that 99 percent of your clients LOVE the pumpkin peel that this client said smelled awful, etc.

EXAMPLE Highlight your strengths: Point out how you pride yourself on clients not having to wait more than five minutes in the reception area; explain how unsatisfied clients are welcomed back for a follow-up consult. Remember: don’t get defensive, just work to solve the problem. All Internet readers have the ability to see what you’re typing, and you want to come off as calm, reasonable, responsible and strong in your services… not overly emotional and unstable.

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business | how to handle negative online feedback

Step

5

Suggest working on a resolution offline You’ll likely know exactly who the client is behind the post; some might even have a name and photo attached to their profiles, as is the case with Yelp and Facebook. Again, working to calm the situation is key.

EXAMPLE When you post your response on the corresponding site, let the individual with the original post know you’d welcome the opportunity to follow up with them by phone. (This is yet another reason that it’s important to have a full database of your clients’ most updated contact information.)

Note that while a majority of your unhappy clients will welcome the opportunity to have you correct their bad experience and show them just how amazing you can be, there will always be a client who wishes to remain anonymous and not be contacted. After all, some people do find comfort in remaining anonymous from their home computer. If the online poster responds negatively to your response, be careful to bow out gracefully and not attack or belittle the complainer. You don’t want to get into an irrational online battle; it won’t do anyone any good.

Step

6

Ask the poster to update their original review You’ve followed the above steps and are certain that things have been smoothed over.

Now what?

EXAMPLE Have you successfully shown the once-unhappy client just how great your services can be?

Politely ask them to update their review. This way, the new comment comes from them— not you, making it more credible.

Always ask for new reviews

Step

7

No one is perfect all of the time, and people—including potential clients reading review sites—know that. If they see one or two negative reviews, it actually makes your positive reviews seem stronger. The trick is to make sure the negative issues are not only resolved, but also buried among many well-deserved positive reviews.

EXAMPLE Include a link to your review site profiles in your email signatures and e-newsletters. Post a “Review Our Services” link on your website. Include a tablet in your reception area to encourage your happy clients to post reviews on the spot. *Tip: make sure they’re all logging in on their own account; sometimes sites block users using the same IP address again and again, assuming it’s fraud.

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business | how to handle negative online feedback

Step

8

Make sure all posts are legitimate Of course, you want to make sure that each post is from an actual client, not a competitor or hostile party lying to make your practice look bad. Calmly confirm with your staff if the situations posted in negative reviews are alleged to involve a team member other than yourself.

EXAMPLE If it turns out that an incident posted didn’t actually occur, contact the review site to request removal of the post, explaining the situation. You have the ability to do so yourself if the comment is made on your Facebook wall, however removing the incident altogether is only advisable if the incident is pure libel or a lie. Otherwise, go back to the beginning of the process and work with the angry poster to calm the situation. n

DOS & DON’TS

OF RESPONDING TO NEGATIVE POSTS ONLINE

Do stay calm when you find a negative review, knowing that not everyone is going to love your services all the time.

Do consider the fact that the poster may be correct in their review (especially if you see a pattern among different posts from multiple clients), and sometimes the truth hurts. Use this as a learning opportunity, and work to correct the problem internally.

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Do script a draft prior to hitting the “submit” button, and have a third party read and review it if responding to a negative review.

Don’t forget to check your social media and review sites on a regular basis. An unrecognized negative review starts to sit and rot like a dead, smelly fish.

Don’t respond without first considering exactly how you’ll go into the dialogue.

Don’t let the online dialogue with an angry poster go on indefinitely. Know when to fold ‘em and end the conversation politely; most likely after two posts.

Mara Shorr is the vice president of marketing and business development for The Best Medical Business Solutions. She is a Level II and III certified esthetic consultant, utilizing knowledge and experience to help clients achieve their potential. Shorr is a national speaker and writer, and can be contacted at marashorr@thebestmbs.com.

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NEW CHANNEL Stemology announces the launch of a new channel on the brand’s website that addresses eight major skin concerns—wrinkles, dark spots, sun damage, sagging skin, dark circles, enlarged pores, sensitive skin and dry skin. “We’re excited to offer a new skin concerns channel on our brand website,” said Stemology Chief Marketing Officer Lori Jacobus.

866.958.9995 stemologyskincare.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

NEW POSITION Phytomer Group USA announces Abigail Rose as a regional account manager. Her mountain west territory includes Alaska, Idaho, Montana, Utah, and Wyoming. Rose has 7 years of experience in the skin care industry, including the last 4 years, which she spent as a national educator for Phytomer USA.

800.227.8051 phytomerusa.com

HONORARY TITLE Repêchage’s Lydia Sarfati was named Honorary Mentor for students of Malopolska Higher Vocational School of J. Dietl by the Dietl University in Poland. “It is with pleasure that I accept this wonderful position with Dietl,” said Sarfati. “Knowing that my story can help future estheticians gives me tremendous satisfaction in life.”

800.248.SKIN repechage.com

STRATEGIES IN PRINT Professional waxer Judy Zifka introduces her new book “What Every Waxer Needs to Know About Inflammation,” where she walks the reader through the steps of inflammation and strategies to reduce it along with pain.

waxingwithjudy.com

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RE-BRANDING Alchimie Forever introduced the new look of its packaging. The branding update now features Alchimie’s signature deep purple on a white background for a sharper appearance, says the company. The Switzerland based skin care line began due to the need for post-procedure skin care. “We wanted our new streamlined packaging to reflect the true, Swiss nature of the products,” said Ada Polla, CEO of Alchimie Forever.

877.920.SKIN alchimie-forever.com

GRANTS ARE BACK

866.444.4272 salonspanetwork.org

The Successful Hands Grant Program enters its second year! Developed through the collaborative efforts of Biofreeze, Massage Envy Spa, and Bon Vital’, the program supports professional massage therapy students and their schools. The 2015 program allows students to apply for one of eight $1,000 grants.

Applications must be received by October 15.

successfulhandsgrants.com

NEW POSITION Helix BioMedix, Inc. announced the promotion of Robin L. Carmichael to the position of president. She will retain her title of CEO and continue as a member of the company’s board of directors. Charmichael joined the company in 2007.

425.402.8400 helixbiomedix.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

The International SalonSpa Business Network (ISBN) named Valorie Reavis executive director. Reavis will serve as the liaison between the ISBN Board, its executive committee and membership, and drive the business strategy and health of the association. “The board is confident that she has the skills, experience and style to help us grow ISBN into a meaningful and relevant association for many years to come,” said Rhoda Olsen, ISBN president.

BusinessNews

NEW POSITION

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LNEONLINE.COM Contact us today for your free show program: 1.800.471.0229 USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664

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leaves of the magic of moringa

by Trina DuBois

M

IN GRE DIE N T S T O WAT C H

oringa (Moringa Oleifera), a drought resistant tree native to India, was nicknamed “the miracle tree” by the indigenous people who first cultivated it for human consumption, and for good reason.

This power food is rich in vitamins A, B, C, E and B3; it also contains some of the highest concentrations of protein, fatty acids, iron and calcium in the plant kingdom. As an antioxidant, it may prevent cells from damage. Additionally, moringa contains large amounts of potassium, which regulates the acid-base and water balance in skin’s tissues.

The seeds, seed pods and leaves of the moringa plant can all be eaten whole or made into oil or powders that pack a powerful nutritional punch. It has even become a popular ingredient as a whole foods greens supplement.

Simply put, there may not be a more complete superfood in existence!

Consider the power of these properties when applied directly onto the skin. The benefits of moringa extend beyond the edible, and are earning respect in the spa industry for their topical value, making it an outstanding ingredient to incorporate into spa treatments.

Simply put, there may not be a more complete superfood in existence!

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skin

benefits

Antioxidant Power Moringa’s high concentration of antioxidants makes it the ideal choice for blocking the effect of free radicals, thus promoting cell regeneration while restoring youthfulness and vitality to the skin. Moreover, moringa oil is highly absorbable, allowing the antioxidants to penetrate deep into the skin to deliver results.

Studies have revealed that the moringa leaf contains sulfur, an element found in all cells in the body, which is vital for the production of collagen and keratin.

Sulfur helps promote the plump, smooth appearance of healthy skin and prevents the development of wrinkles, lines and age spots.

Optimal Hydration Anti-inflammatory Moringa oil has been used in skin ointAgent ments since Egyptian times to heal dry, cracked skin, and it’s easy to understand why. Oleic acid, with its high lipid count, is present in substantial amounts in moringa oil. It makes the perfect moisturizer when combined with moringa’s highly absorbable nature. It can even be used to heal chapped lips and dry hair.

Moringa oil has strong anti-inflammatory properties. Vitamin A increases the turnover rate for dead skin cells and reduces the amount of oil produced by the skin, preventing clogged pores and addressing acne. It’s the perfect addition to facial cleansers and scrubs, and a natural pollutant remover.

Exciting Future We can expect a growth (maybe even an explosion!) of moringa products and treatments in the spa market as the cosmetic benefits of this remarkable plant become better known. New research into its properties and composition can only bring more fresh and exciting ways to treat and pamper your clients’ skin!

moringa based spa treatments Spas are starting to recognize the value that moringa can bring to their treatments.

Consider the following examples from these two luxurious spas:

At the Cotton House Spa in St. Vincent and the Grenadines Island, the Mustique Immersion body treatment draws upon mustique bush medicine. A cleansing turmeric scrub is followed by the application of a virgin coconut oil to energize the chakras. The treatment concludes with a massage utilizing moringa and baobob, along with ylang and jasmine.

cottonhouse.net/the spa

The Spa at the Residence Zanzibar, an exclusive getaway in Tanzania, West Africa, offers The Tree of Life & Yemaya Body Rituals, using an earthy, enriched trilogy of rich African “tree of life” oils (baobab, moringa and argan) as the base of these signature 90-minute male and female body experiences.

The Tree of Life treatment, designed for men, starts with an energizing body scrub, followed by an adaptogenic herbal liver pack and classic massage, using a blend of essential oils combined with the “African tree of life” formula, which consists of the phytonutrient rich moringa oil, along with baobab oil from the seeds of Adansonia tree and enriched anti-aging argan oil.

The Yemaya treatment for women starts with a blissful scrub, followed by an adaptogenic kidney herbal pack (to encourage purification and rejuvenation of energy). This classic massage combines unique water chakra essential oils with the aforementioned African tree of life blend, including moringa oil.

cenizaro.com/theresidence/zanzibar

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connection BUILDING A SENSE OF community THROUGH THE SPA

BY PAUL SCHMIDT

M

ost people think of a spa experience as solitary, featuring inwardly focused personal time where relaxation is encouraged in quiet, dimly lit spaces, with treatments experienced in the comfort of a private room.

This was not always the case. The historical origins of spa are found in balneum centers, where people gathered to benefit from the healing waters. The key element of the experience was also community. The grandest of all the public baths was the Baths of Diocletian in Rome, where up to 3,000 bathers could partake in the ritual at any given time.

While such experiences are obviously influenced by the constant social interaction, there’s also a natural connectedness that people experience when stripped of their socio-political identity, and find themselves together in an environment where the only agenda is to rejuvenate, recharge and heal.

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organic and wellness | make the connection

Numerous studies emphasize the importance of social contact for health.

Whether you consider the critical need for infant to mother contact or the health risks of isolation later in life, you cannot deny that complete wellness involves a social element.

It naturally follows that spas are starting to recognize the value of community as central to their mission to promote health and well-being, and are renewing a lost part of their original purpose by bringing people together.

Establishing ties

Spas are starting to recognize the value of community as central to their mission to promote health and well-being.

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Meaningful connections that spontaneously arise are integral to the allure of many spa retreats like the iconic Rancho La Puerta in Tecate, Mexico.

Since 1940, lifelong friendships have been forged here through simple interactions like taking a hike, dining, relaxing in a hot tub or enjoying a stretching class together. The blending of the local community and transient guests here is so complete that calling it a “connection” seems insufficient.

“The community is our staff, and our staff is the community so the connection is seamless,” says Marketing Director Roma Maxwell. “More than

60 percent of our guests are returning, and many have come to know staff members on a first name basis.

They look forward to sharing stories and learning about their personal lives and the local community while here on retreat.”

Community stewards The sense of responsibility to the local community is so integral to the mission of the ranch that the Szekely family and their lifelong business partner, Jose Manuel Jasso, formed a sister organization, the Fundación La Puerta.

Ranch President Sarah Livia Brightwood expresses their mandate as “to create healing lifestyles in the Tecate community and to preserve the cultural and environmental heritage of the region.”

The influential nonprofit organization makes a positive difference for thousands of people in Tecate each year through urban planning, environmental education, cultural and recreational programs.

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organic and wellness | make the connection

Group activities Ojai Valley Inn & Spa’s 5 Diamond award winning property, nestled among small communities in California, nurtures its relationship with locals through quarterly Full Moon Yoga events that create a welcoming energy around the practice of yoga with an element of social interaction. (See our story on full moon yoga and meditation in our April issue, “Moonlight Children.”)

In similar fashion, a highly popular staple in the Terranea Resort’s wellness offerings are regular Full Moon and Sea Side yoga events, which draw up to 300 people to their spectacular oceanside property in Rancho Palos Verdes, Calif. These events are always either offered free of charge to the public or encourage a $20 donation, which is passed along to a different charity partner each quarter.

Mutual support Faye’s Light in East Hazel Crest, Ill., takes a different approach, establishing a quality connection among people facing a common life challenge. The not 112

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for profit organization provides complimentary holistic and spa services at no cost to people undergoing cancer treatment. In the presence of others who are experiencing their same struggle, these clients are free of the self-consciousness they typically feel for the many physical side effects they endure. Faye’s Light has provided more than 14,000 free treatments since its inception in 2005.

“We simply measure the results by the love and gratitude we receive from our guests,” says Vicky Weis, founder and director. “That’s what it’s all about.”

Charitable events and teamwork Philanthropy is the most popular way that spas engage with their local communities. As places of restoration and healing, it makes perfect sense that spas would be supporters of charitable events and initiatives, due to the cumulative healing impact that results when people join together to help those in need and contribute to the greater good.

Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort and Spa in Victoria, B.C., hosts multiple events each year that have benefited local homeless shelters, transition houses, clothing drives, shore clean ups and

organic and wellness | make the connection more. Clients love to invite their friends and family to participate. Spa Director Jennifer Spencer says that guests approach her throughout the year, asking when the next event will take place.

The team at Stronghouse Spa in Quechee, Vt., responds directly to a local need. For 12 years, they have been connecting people from all corners of their rural community by designing and building safe trails to encourage walking, recreation and fitness oriented lifestyles.

Two successful multi-property brands, Auberge Spa and Natural Body Spa & Shop, mandate community involvement across all of their locations.

They each hold annual events that are coordinated through partnerships with other local businesses, positioning their spas as centers for the greater good.

From sponsoring neighborhood charity 5K runs and golf tournaments and organizing collections for animal shelters, these organizations create a measure of generosity and loyalty that cannot be duplicated.

Spreads goodwill The drive behind community events is bigger than any financial incentive for spas. One common aspect of these events is that they basically break even, so profit is not the objective. However the energy, time and talent dedicated to giving is something that spas can easily embrace. The resulting effect on business, while difficult to quantify, is undeniably positive. Spas benefit from improved loyalty, positive word

of mouth and building enduring bonds with the society beyond their walls.

The trend is clear and growing.

Spas and the communities they serve sustain and lift each other through a diverse and bountiful array of healthy connections. Whether done through a spa program or event, staff and guest roles blend like the pure notes of great aromatherapy to form a powerful sense of community.

In the presence of others who are experiencing their same struggle, these clients are free of the self-consciousness they typically feel for the many physical side effects they endure.

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organic and wellness | make the connection

Tips for creating community connections through your spa: Involve your staff. Through their families and friends, you can reach a wider audience, and sparking the energy of your team boosts employee engagement.

Pick a group to benefit. Ask your staff and guests for suggestions. Find a charity or non-profit cause that’s meaningful and create an event to support it.

Partner with other local organizations or businesses.

It’s all about strength in numbers. When businesses join together, not only does the number of people they can reach expand, the selflessness in co-branding around a worthy cause sends the message that connecting with others is valuable.

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Be humble. Don’t confuse a community philanthropic event with a marketing event. Pitching your primary business proposition during an event where the focus is supposed to be on helping others is unappealing and can fail to generate goodwill toward your brand.

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Involve your suppliers. They are usually willing and able to assist in providing samples, educational materials, marketing support or volunteer hours. With the brand exposure they get, this scenario is a win win for you both.

Plan ahead and don’t be shy. While the event itself will be exciting and fun, an equal or even larger amount of exposure and positive effect in your community will be generated through the advanced promotion and anticipation.

Paul Schmidt is the Executive Director for the Green Spa Network. Schmidt has been an innovator in the business of health and wellness for over 25 years. Schmidt has volunteered on boards for Healing Mountain Massage School, Eagle Gate College, the International Spa Association and the Jackson Hole Destination Wellness Committee.

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ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & Wellness News

NATURAL RADIANCE

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Gaelle Organic’s Exfoliant Supérieure combines the natural hydroxy acid in willow bark extract with finely-milled Breton sea salt to remove dead skin, says the company. The refining treatment deeply cleanses the pores, enhancing cell turnover and refining skin texture.

805.640.5286 gaelleorganic.com

POUNCE OUT BLEMISHES Purrifying Facial Tonic from Crazy Cat Lady Concoctions is enriched with soothing botanicals and organic ingredients, says the company. The aromatic mist tightens, tones, exfoliates and purrifies skin for a radiant glow.

The mist features willowbark, licorice root, orange blossom hydrosol and aloe vera.

610.368.4222 crazycatladyconcoctions.com

SUN PROTECTION Repêchage introduces its Mineral Face Shield Environmental Protection that fights against environmental aggressors with an oilfree, lightweight formula, says the company.

The face shield features zinc oxide and Laminaria Digitata (a blend of seaweed), which moisturizes skin.

800.248.7546 repechage.com

SUPPRESS ACNE Ilike launches its Sulphuric Balancing Serum that promises to bring relief for those with acne prone, blemished and oily skin, says the company. The serum blends sulphur with the balancing benefits of oil absorbing lemon and pore minimizing lemongrass.

888.290.6238 szepelet.com

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CHOOSE YOUR STYLE

• CHOOSE YOUR COLOR

CHOOSE NEWAPEEL

From the makers of the Diamondtome crystal free microdermabrasion comes 3 new fantastic colors. You can choose: Majestic Bamboo, Nautical Blue, Zen Stone and of course our Classic. Pick the color that best fits your style.

AESTHETIC EXFOLIATION WAS NEVER SO COLORFUL.

altairinstruments.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243 on reader service card

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Let’s Talk

MAKEUP With Leah Den Herber Owner of Studio L Skin Care, Cincinnati, Ohio

Leah Den Herber is the owner of Studio L Skin Care, a boutique skin care studio. With more than 18 years of experience as an esthetician and brow specialist, Den Herber is passionate about all natural skin care, makeup and beauty nutrition. She firmly believes that to combine skin care, makeup and nutrition to achieve radiant skin is nothing less than art.

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IMPLEMENTING MAKEUP INTO A SPA

wellness and color line. I love [‌] the colors, packaging and training.

When did you decide to implement makeup into your studio?

I decided to add makeup to my services when I started my own business.

I recently opened my own skin care only studio in June 2013.

What prompted you to want to implement makeup into the spa?

There was a true need for it. Clients need good, high quality makeup that will not clog their pores or hurt their sensitive skin. I chose to offer makeup services because I wanted my clients to use makeup that is good for their skin. High quality makeup that will not cause breakouts or irritate sensitive skin.

How did you do it?

I added makeup after doing extensive research. I tried several different lines before making my choices. Ultimately I chose to create a private label for my loose mineral foundation. I chose [the line carried] for several reasons.

I strongly believe in their skin care,

Where is your makeup area located?

My makeup area is in my waiting room and is somewhat unique. The makeup

THE LINE

Do you have special promotions for makeup?

How did you select your makeup line?

I selected my private label foundation after personally trying several makeup lines. I was introduced to [the makeup line carried] at one of their skin care classes and was blown away!

They have such beautiful colors and natural ingredients.

Every three months I have a Gift with Purchase Event. The Gift with Purchase Events are a big hit! I choose a theme, for example my first event was “Makeup and Mimosas.” I had the event on a Saturday morning, served breakfast treats and mimosas.

We were booked solid and it was a lot of fun! Gift with purchase events work as follows: [for example] purchase $50 in makeup and receive a free full size lip gloss. Purchase $90 in skin care and receive a free full size [facial] spray.

What are the most popular retail items?

My most popular items are the [alphabet] creams, lip-gloss and mascara.

THE SERVICES area is actually a 6 foot wooden workbench from a hardware store with five coats of yellow paint and a custommade glass top. It’s a great display and work area for all the makeup.

Instead of traditional makeup display, I made my own using square glass vases with decorative rocks in the bottom for visual interest and to hold on merchandise.

Why this location? […] for two reasons. Everyone that comes into the studio can see that I offer makeup services since the makeup is directly across from my waiting area chairs. I also placed the makeup near a large window to get as much natural light as possible.

What kind of makeup services do you offer on the menu?

I offer Special Event, Bridal Makeup and Makeup Lessons. I do a complimentary mineral base application after a client’s facial as a sunscreen.

It’s also a great way to introduce my clients to the makeup line.

Which service is the most popular?

Special Event makeup.

PROMOTION

REVENUE COMPOSITION How profitable are makeup services?

I am just getting started with makeup.

Right now makeup is not as profitable as facials or waxing, but sales are growing every week!

Where does makeup rank in your spa revenue composition?

I would say that at this time makeup counts for about 10 percent of my studio’s composition. Makeup sales and services are growing monthly. n

How do you promote your makeup services?

I promote my services by using social media, before and after pictures.

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ARCH

SUPPORT Boost your bottom line with brows!

by Patti Biro

E

very picture needs a frame, and eyebrows are the perfect frame for the face, enhancing each individual’s natural beauty. But ask any group of people if they’re happy with their eyebrows, and you’re likely to hear a host of complaints, all beginning with “too.” “Too bushy,” “Too thin,” “Too over plucked.” This widespread eyebrow dissatisfaction is your next big revenue opportunity!

Spas, salons and medical spas can all provide something that every woman wants— beautiful brows. While brow services are not new, the range of products, services and options is expanding. The variety of brow services you can incorporate includes both the basics (such as shaping, waxing and tinting) and the more exotic options (such as threading, extensions, permanent makeup and bleaching). Becoming an expert brow consultant doesn’t require a significant investment of time or money, so what do you have to lose? Rarely does such a small service produce so much return.

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image | arch support

Consider the following reasons to bank on brows:

LITTLE SPACE IS NEEDED

MALE MAGNET

Implementing brow services into your spa requires very little space. These services can generally be performed in your existing treatment rooms, or you can create a small area in your waiting area or makeup/hair station. A dedicated brow bar space draws attention to the service and invites questions.

It’s estimated that up to 30 percent of men pluck their eyebrows, which supports the value of offering male designated brow services.

While all brow service options can be offered to male clients, consider how to market to men. Create a “Man-u” just for the guys. Use gender neutral or male centric service names. The Queen Bee Salon & Spa in Brentwood, Calif., offers two brow grooming services tailored specifically to men, called “Hey Burt!”, and “Thumbs Up!” BroZnAround Eyebrow Studio & Spa in Raleigh, N.C., calls their waxing and sugaring treatments for men the “Ultimate GuyBrow Grooming.”

Promote your male targeted services to all your female clients as well, as they provide the best referrals for the men.

BOOSTS RETAIL Brow services go hand in hand with retail products. You can easily promote brushes, gels, pencils, powders and brow growth enhancers to help your clients achieve the professional look you have created on a daily basis.

Christy Greene of the Christy Greene Beauty Boutique in Murietta, Calif., offers a personalized brow makeover, including a consultation and personalized design. After customizing the client’s new look based on age, facial shape, skin concerns and individual brow characteristics, she shows them how to achieve it on their own using brow products.

This is the perfect opportunity to recommend your own retail.

ONCOLOGY ESSENTIAL Suzanne Nicholson, a specialist in oncology esthetics and owner of Jeunesse Skin Care in Walnut Creek, Calif., (which has been recognized by Wellness for Cancer and SpaFinder Wellness 365 as a Cancer Aware business) recently started reaching out to guests who experience brow loss due to cancer treatment. Because waxing can be too delicate for cancer patients, she focuses on creating a natural look with brow products, providing instructions, encouragement and take home products in each comprehensive service.

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You can easily promote brushes, gels, pencils, powders and brow growth enhancers to help your clients achieve the professional look you have created on a daily basis.

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EASY TO PROMOTE AND CROSS MARKET After adding brow services to the menu, any spa, salon, medical spa or facial studio can promote them and their other services simultaneously by hosting special events that highlight brows. Boom Boom Brow Bar of New York City, N.Y., hosts a weekly waxing happy hour that includes specials such as a complimentary lip wax with every brow service. “Everyone loves getting something for free,” says owner Malynda Vigliotti. “People are obsessed with brows and our business is booming.”

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McRae MD Medical Laser Spa in Boerne, Texas, frequently holds special events where guests receive a complimentary mini brow service. Their “Un-Brow-lievable” event provides participants with customized brow makeovers featuring products sold in the spa. Owner Elizabeth McRae, M.D., explains that these events provide services that offer “something for everyone,” and points out that potential brow service recipients can also be introduced to higher ticket services such as facial fillers, injectables, or laser treatments.

Actor Jack Black is quoted as saying: “You must never underestimate the power of the eyebrow.” When it comes to enhancing your business’ bottom line, he’s right on!

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EYEBROW SERVICES—FROM BASIC TO BOLD! The following list includes a brief description of different types of eyebrow spa services, including typical service times and prices. Prices vary greatly based on location, and tend to be higher in urban areas.

Actor Jack Black is quoted as saying: “You must never underestimate the power of the eyebrow.”

Shaping The most basic type of eyebrow service involves numbing the brow area and using tweezers to pluck individual hairs to create the desired shape. Shaping can be offered as a standalone menu item or included as part of a waxing service.

Tinting Tinting can be used to match brows to hair color, darken fair brows or create the illusion of thickness.

Service time: 20-30 minutes Cost range: $20-$50 Good to know: This service is a good alternative for clients who cannot use wax.

Waxing This is one of the most popular (and profitable) ways to remove unwanted eyebrow hair and create a basic shape.

Service time: No more than 10 minutes. May take up to 20 minutes when combined with shaping and touch ups.

Cost range: $12-$75 Good to know: Some clients may experience sensitivities or breakouts with waxing. There is no one wax type that suits all skin, so it is advisable to keep different varieties on your backbar.

Service time: 15-20 minutes, sometimes less depending on the desired result.

Cost range: $20-$40 Good to know: Tinting is good for covering grey hairs, and lasts an average of three to four weeks depending on the rate of new growth.

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Threading Threading involves using a cotton or polyester thread, which is drawn over the brow to remove multiple hairs at a time.

Service time: Approximately 20 minutes for first-time visits and 10 minutes for touch-ups.

Cost range: $10-$30 Good to know: No additional products are required.

Threading is suitable for most skin types, and there is minimal discomfort.

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Bleaching Bleaching is a variation of tinting, with the outcome of lighter brows. Bleaching agents are used to lighten the brows for styles from mild to wild.

Service time: As little as 10 minutes, depending on the degree of lightening desired. Platinum eyebrows will take more time.

Cost range: $20-$40 Good to know: Bleached eyebrows will return to their natural color as the hairs fall out and regrow. Frequent touchups are needed to maintain the look.

Extensions Extensions are a spinoff of lash extensions. Individual brow hairs are dipped in surgical adhesive and applied to the natural brow line, one at a time.

Permanent Makeup Tattooed brows are an option for clients who have completely lost their eyebrows. This can be a good choice for those who have experienced hair loss due to medical conditions.

Service time: One to two hours Cost range: $400-$800 Good to know: Upon healing (approximately six to eight weeks following treatment), a touch-up may be necessary.

Permanent makeup for brows may fade after two or more years, requiring additional touch up services.

Service time: 30-120 minutes, depending on the amount of hair being applied.

Cost range: $150-$200 Good to know: This service is labor intensive due to the one-hair-at-a-time application. The look is very natural, and will last two to three weeks before a touch up or fill in is required.

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Patti Biro is the founder of Patti Biro and Associates, a consulting firm specializing in brand enrichment. Once “over-plucked,” she has tried many brow services and is now in brow heaven. In the spirit of brow promotion she has a Pinterest Board celebrating brows called “Un-brow-lievable.”

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BAG COLLECTION Qosmedix introduces its Studio Cosmetic Bag Collection. Inspired by the concept of a traveling makeup artist, the new collection comes in four different styles: Small Cosmetic Bag, Medium Cosmetic Train Case, Rectangular Zip Around Cosmetic Case, and Large Carry-All Travel Bag.

631.242.3270 qosmedix.com

COLOR POUTS Lady Burd’s Luxury Crème Lipsticks are soft and creamy and glide on effortlessly, delivering rich color, says the company. The lipsticks feature castor oil, carnauba wax, and vitamin E.

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Image News

800.345.3448 ladyburd.com

SUN SHADES Cuccio Colour introduces Sweet as Sugar Summer Collection, a collection with confectionary classic shades—Sweet Tooth, Very Sherbet, Grape to See You, Double Bubble Trouble, Goody Goody Gum Drops, Lemon Drop Me a Line, and Sugar Daddy.

800.762.6245 cuccio.com

PUCKER UP VA Cosmetics is a high pigment, mineral makeup line infused with vitamins and free of parabens, says the company. Their dual purpose Mineral Lipstick & Cream Blush contains vitamin E, grapeseed oil, shea butter, and avocado oil.

813.992.8120 vayourself.com

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ADVERTISER INDEX Page Number

Reader Service No.

117............. Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 93............... Athena Beauty........................................................ athenabeauty.com........................................................... 162 79............... Beau Institute Of Permanent Cosmetics................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 8................. Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 32............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................. 140 75............... Biomani Scientific Skin Care.................................... biomaniskincare.com....................................................... 276 81............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................. 335 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 111............. Bon Vital.................................................................. bonvital.com................................................................... 265 92............... Carefree Naturals / Rubber Ducky.......................... rubberduckysunscreen.com............................................. 317 65............... Circadia................................................................... circadia.com.................................................................... 101 132............. Dermapenworld...................................................... dermapenworld.com....................................................... 136 91............... Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro Usa............................................................ equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 21............... Farmhouse Fresh..................................................... farmhousefreshgoods.com.............................................. 181 129............. France Laure........................................................... francelaure.com............................................................... 199 29............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 100............. Hale Cosmeceuticals............................................... halecosmeceuticals.com.................................................. 133 5................. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgesystems.com............................................................ 201 67............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 101............. Infinity Sun.............................................................. infinitysun.com................................................................ 118 56,57.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach........... longbeach.skincareshows.com 104,105...... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa:Philadelphia........... philadelphia.skincareshows.com 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics......... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 69............... Le Mieux................................................................. lemieuxcosmetics.com..................................................... 294 115............. Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 114............. Nature Pure Labs.................................................... naturepure.com............................................................... 316 33............... Osmosis Skincare.................................................... osmosisskincare.com....................................................... 111 77............... PFB Vanish.............................................................. pfbvanish.com................................................................. 229 89............... PurErb..................................................................... purerbskincare.com......................................................... 294 25............... Regenesis................................................................ revitalash.com/regenesis-hair........................................... 346 127............. Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 82,83.......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 73............... Revitalash................................................................ revitalash......................................................................... 346 17............... Satin Smooth........................................................... satinsmooth.com............................................................. 304 15............... Shira Esthetics......................................................... shiraesthetics.com........................................................... 249 31............... SlimSpa................................................................... slimspaonline.com........................................................... 284 97............... TiZo......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................. 305 23............... Vivant...................................................................... vivantskincare.com.......................................................... 282 123............. Weight Loss For Spas.............................................. weightlossforspas.com..................................................... 339

*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims.

Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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Re-write history with Dermapen 3™ creates millions of fractional micro-channels in the skin. The body's natural response is to renew and repair the damage.

With no injections, heat or downtime, Dermapen 3™ is safe on all skin colours to treat an array of skin conditions.

Dermapen 3™’s Advanced Oscillating Vertical Needling (AOVN™) technology allows the pen to harmoniously glide over the skin with precise automation. Discomfort is significantly reduced, whilst the absorption of active treatment products is maximised.

Unlike ablative or thermolytic technologies that destroy the epidermis, Dermapen 3™’s fractional rejuvenation leaves the epidermis intact, reducing negative side effects and downtime.

Unlike laser, IPL or aggressive chemical peels there is no scabbing, grazing, bruising or crusting of the skin.

Procedures may be performed in as little as 30 minutes with the skin’s repair cascade continuing for up to two years – even after just one treatment.

Many doctors, including Dr. Hasan Fakahany of Egypt, say Dermapen™ has helped them treat the signs of: • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Ageing Fine lines & wrinkles Sun damage Hyperpigmentation Age spots Acral vitiligo Rosacea Dilated capillaries Breakouts Acne Enlarged pores Milia Scars Stretch marks

Visit for more information.

Call: (954) 900-5901 | Email: info@dermapenworld.com.

Or Call Us Toll Free: 1 (844) 4-DERMAPEN 132

Dermapen™, DPDermaceuticals™ Range, AOVN™ and DermapenWorld.com™ are trademarks of Equipmed Australia.

283 Mona Vale Road, Terrey Hills, NSW, 2084, Australia. EQUDPE2011a. 01/15.

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Trauma scar Result after 3 sessions Courtesy of Dr. Hasan Fakahany

Acne scarring Result after 1 treatment Courtesy of Dr. Abbas Al-Taiff