LNE & Spa November 2018

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals November 2018

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Not a facial

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FROM THE

EDITOR

Bio-Therapeutic

TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED

SKIN CARE

November is here, which marks the start of the giving season. From gift giving to spending extra quality time with friends and family, there is nothing too small or inconsequential when it comes to making your loved ones feel special.

Dedicating some extra time in the treatment room can also go a long way when winning over new clients.

If there’s one thing that makes a facial memorable to me, it’s not the potency of the ingredients, or the flashing lights and lasers. Rather, it’s the feeling that I was being cared for and made to feel special during my time in the treatment room. And the most timestanding, budget-friendly way to make that connection is facial massage.

This month’s Facial Massage Guide covers the importance of facial massage, the methods we can use to lift and firm the skin non-invasively, and new ways to combine ancient modalities for a “Wow!” effect.

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From cleansing, to moisturizing, to applying a mask,

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every step is worthy of some extra manipulation and massage!

Enjoy this month’s issue and let me know what you think! From the LNE & Spa family to yours, Happy Holidays!

All the best,

bio-therapeutic.com

Cristina Beecham Managing Editor

mcristina@LNEonline.com November2018

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November volume 33 number 11

contents 6 From the Editor 82 Advertiser Index

Benefits Of Facial Massage

54

Face Lifting Massage

58

High Tech Facial Massage

62

Marma Point and Cupping Facial Massage Photo Feature

12 The Great Debate

47 Face Massage Guide

24

Post Holiday Detox

68

Rice Bran Oil

20

Spa Of The Month

72

Organic & Wellness News

30

Spa News

24 Post Holiday Detox

68 Rice Bran Oil

Behind The Spa Door with Basma Hameed

38

Your Ideal Spa Client is Male

44

Long Beach Recap

46

Business News

38 Your Ideal Spa Client is Male

image

34

business

Massage 66

o&w

spa

guide

48

18 Skin News

skin

12 The Great Debate

74

How It’s Made: Makeup Brushes

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Image News

74 How It’s Made: Makeup Brushes

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Director of Marketing Stephanie Batier Rives De Lavays Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchĂŠ Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors

V I S I T

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Alma Bocanegra Basma Hameed Candace Smith Constantino Cicchelli

Cristina Beecham Daniel Clary Dr. Steven Wang Janel Luu

Jenny Hogan Judith Bourgeois Stella Barba

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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GREAT

THE

DEBATE Understanding key differences in stem cell skin care formulation

by Daniel Clary

Over the last two decades, the global beauty industry has seen an influx of technology and ingredient trends. As an esthetic researcher, I often find myself at the intersection of skin care science and sensationalism. It is quite easy to fall into the marketing abyss, where manufacturers are more inclined to craft exotic (and often unsubstantiated) stories than deliver well-researched scientific facts. One area of particular interest is the world of stem cells, a big buzzword in the industry today, yet one of the most wildly misunderstood topics. From plants, to animals and humans, the term stem cell is unfortunately used interchangeably no matter the context. Let’s start from the beginning.

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skin The Great Debate

STEM CELLS 101 What is a stem cell? The simplest definition of a stem cell is a cell that can both replicate (create new versions of itself) and differentiate (change) into other types of cells and tissues. In both the plant and animal kingdoms, the ultimate stem cell is a fertilized egg. These early stem cells are what is knows as Totipotential, a cell that has the ability to repeatedly divide and differentiate into all types of cells found within the body or the plant. In animals, these early Totipotential cells only exist for about four days, before they further differentiate into Pluripotential cells, or cells that can give rise to all of the cell types that make up the body.

However, in the plant kingdom, Totipontential cells remain that way throughout the lifetime of the plant.

These plant stem cells exist in specialized tissue niches within the plant called meristems. In skin care applications, it is the plants meristem that is extracted and cultured in a lab to produce secondary metabolites that ultimately end up in the topical product. Just like with human stem cell products, the actual stem itself is never found within the bottle, it is the cultured cell “extract” that contains molecules with potential therapeutic value.

PLANT STEM CELLS It is a well-established fact that plants hold significant pharmacological value, with a myriad of medicines having some botanical origin. Often citing the abundant flora that scatters our planet, Hippocrates famously said, “Let food be thy medicine, medicine be thy food.” Whether ingested or applied topically, plants do have the potential to produce chemically diverse compounds. But, can their stem cells manufacture substances that have the ability to affect human skin, let alone behave and perform like the human counterpart technologies?

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Meristem cells are actually under external control, meaning their biological activity is dependent on signals from other parts of the plant, such as neighboring quiescent cells and plant hormones known as Cytokinins (not to be confused with human cell messenger proteins known as Cytokines). This intricate symphony of communication is unique and inherent to the plant, and is biologically different from the cross talk that exists between human cells.

It is only down-differentiated plant cells that have the capacity to produce the active constituents that have known value, such as terpenes, anti-oxidants, flavonoids and other chemical compounds. When meristems are removed for culture, they effectively lose the “instructions” given by the rest of the plant for them to achieve specific bio-

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logical functions. To compensate for this, manufacturers will use genetic sequencing to mimic the biological influence from the whole plant in order for the meristem cells to produce the molecules mentioned in the marketing.

From “rare swiss apples” to the Alpine Edelweiss, and every other plant species in between, we must recognize what these plants are and what they aren’t when it comes to their ability to influence human skin cells.

ANIMAL STEM CELLS In the animal kingdom, all nucleated cells (outside of red blood cells) communicate with each other via specialized protein molecules that get synthesized within the cell, released, and then travel to neighboring cells to attach to surface receptors. These molecules are

skin The Great Debate

called growth factors and cytokines.

This “symphony” of communication is known as paracrine signaling, and it is how all these nucleated cells “talk” and “listen” to each other.

Growth Factors and Cytokines carry specific coded instructions, and the biological message they carry and transmit is dependent on their unique and innate language. The body produces hundreds of these protein molecules, and it is these complex bio-signals that are used in topical skin care products.

When it comes to utilizing topical growth factors, the source MUST be from a human, as the biological messages that they produce are radically different than that of animals and plants. They just don’t speak the same language.

HARVESTING HUMAN CELLS Multiple types of cells within the body can be utilized to harvest these growth factors. The most common cell sources for culture found in the topical skin care space include: • Fibroblasts (the most dominant cell in connective tissue) • Adipose (Fat) Stem Cells • Bone Marrow Stem Cells Each are very different in the types and quantities of messenger proteins they give off. The process of extraction, no matter the cell source, is universally the same (barring some additional steps unique to the manufacturer). The cell of choice is put through a culturing process in a laboratory, where the cell

is fed nutrients in order for them to grow and proliferate. Think of a glorified petri dish that contains a solution of enzymes, carbohydrates, etc. that act as a food source for the cells. This solution is called a “media.”

The cell is placed in the media where it feeds off of the solution and then starts to grow. As these cells grow, they begin to naturally release protein molecules into the media, among other molecules. These proteins are those powerful messenger molecules known as growth factors and cytokines.

The media is now considered “conditioned.” In fact, that is how all human growth factor products will have the ingredient listed on the bottle for you to recognize; Fibroblast Conditioned Media, Adipose Stem Cell Conditioned Media, and/or Bone Marrow Stem Cell Conditioned Media.

Once the culturing process is complete, the original cell utilized is filtered out (transferred to a new “petri dish” to begin the process all over again), and the media solution with all the growth factors contained within is ready to be processed for bottling and topical application.

It is important to remember that the original cell source used (stem cell or otherwise) is never found inside the bottle, it is just the protein molecules that the cell releases. These are the most valuable tools that can enhance and optimize cell signaling (communication) when applied topically.

Even within the human cell source realm, as noted above, the three commonly used cells produce a vastly different portfolio of proteins when cultured.

This is extremely important to recognize and fully understand, as it is the netpattern of the growth factors produced that will determine the physiological effect when applied to the skin.

Fibroblasts are weak producers of growth factors, and the ones they do produce tend to lean towards the inflammatory side such as IL-6, a potent LNEonline.com

November2018

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skin The Great Debate

inflammatory cytokine. This is first-generation GF technology. Adipose (Fat) Stem Cells do produce an abundance of growth factors when cultured, but these proteins are overwhelmingly inflammatory. The various risks and safety concerns associated with the usage of Adipose Stem Cells and their derivatives have not been fully elucidated.

Fat serves auxiliary endocrine function and secretes metabolically active hormones such as Leptin, Adipokines, and other inflammatory proteins linked to aggressiveness of malignant cell growth. Adipose Stem Cells play no role in controlled healing throughout the body; they have a singular fate in life, to become fatter.

Bone Marrow Stem Cells, however, are very unique. They are the master healing stem cell in the entire body, and

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November2018

the only mobile stem cell that patrols the body looking for injury. When the injury is found they initiate a regenerative response. When cultured, these stem cells produce an extremely large amount of growth factors, with the netpattern being strongly anti-inflammatory. They reign supreme as the most effective tool to control the underlying mechanisms to aging.

Education is vital to fully understanding the truth behind the technologies being marketed to us. We can see that there is value in both plant and human sources of ingredients. Plant “stem cell extracts” can harmoniously co-exist with the human stem cell derivatives, and with honest and transparent formulation standards, manufacturers can craft well-rounded, scientifically sound and more importantly safe products

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that help us achieve all of our esthetic outcomes and objectives.

Daniel Clary is a passionate esthetic industry veteran with over 15 years as a licensed esthetician in two states. He has fostered a wealth of knowledge in cosmetic chemistry, skin physiology and molecular biology, which has allowed him to be a keynote speaker and be published in respected journals. An elected member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, he strives to deliver top-notch education and is part of a team of science “truth-seekers” as VP of Education at AnteAGE. He also maintains a new beauty and science-focused blog at www.culturedbeauty.com.

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BARBA SKIN CLINIC Miami, FL

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THE PERFECT UNION OF ESTHETICS AND DERMATOLOGY

SPA OF THE MONTH

by Cristina Beecham

As the med-spa industry continues to grow, Barba Skin Clinic in Miami, Florida is making a name for itself as the perfect unity between esthetics and dermatology. With a modern, chic aesthetic in downtown Miami, this results-oriented skin clinic believes in the power of the esthetician by supporting their work with training and education from leading board-certified dermatologists.

Believing that Miami lacked a serious approach to skin care, sisters Alicia and Stella Barba teamed together to open Barba Skin Clinic. Nominated one of the 13 Best Place To Get A Facial in Miami, the clinic has been given hundreds of raving five star reviews and testimonials since its opening.

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spa Spa Of The Month

SIGNATURE TREATMENT Baba Skin Clinic’s most popular facial treatment is the Barba Signature Facial.

The clinic’s lead esthetician and the inspiration behind the clinic, Stella Barba, says, “When creating this treatment, Dr. Barba and I wanted to encompass all the important points for a great facial, mechanical exfoliation, a good cleaning and a gentle (predictable) peel. This treatment consists of double cleansing the face to make sure the skin is clean and fresh. It is followed by Microdermabrasion and steaming the skin to help ease with extractions. After extractions are competently performed, we apply a gentle peel. This peel helps to brighten the skin and lightly exfoliate further. Dry ice is followed for a therapeutic and calming effect. Patients tell us they feel their skin cleaner and “lighter” after this treatment.”

The Barba Signature Facial can be performed by any of the Barba Skin Clinic therapists, and is $150 or $175 depending on LED therapy and peel solution used.

MARKETING Even in the world of med spas and advanced skin care, word of mouth marketing is still Barba Skin Clinic’s most effective method of attracting new clients.

The clinic’s Co-Owner and Managing Partner, Constantino Cicchelli, says, “Word of mouth has always played a great role in Barba Skin Clinic new clients’ acquisition. Our best fans are our own clients.” With word-of-mouth marketing, results are of the utmost importance when asking clients to recommend treatments to their friends and family. To ensure the best possible outcomes, Constantino says, “We all believe in the importance of follow up care. It is in fact essential to obtain best results on the skin. For this reason, we work directly with Barba Dermatology 22

November2018

and our belief and strict relationship allows for our providers to recommend Barba Skin Clinic to their patients.”

Barba Skin Clinic loves to invest in their clients and show their commitment to helping with their clients’ skin concerns. Constantino says, “First time patients get $50 off their first facial. We would rather invest in our own patients/ clients showing them the results instead of promising results via advertisement.”

For more traditional marketing methods, the clinic has recently implemented a Google pay-per-click campaign to increase their online presence. In fact, creating a more digitally focused marketing strategy is one of Constantino’s resolutions for 2019!

TRAINING The estheticians working at Barba Skin Clinic have a unique training experience. After receiving their esthetician degrees and professional state licenses,

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all Barba Skin Clinic Specialists are supervised and clinically trained by Dr. Barba for an additional six to eight months. To Dr. Barba, it’s key that they understand the role of the dermatologist, have a true grasp of active ingredients, and master the cutting-edge technology required to safely deliver superior clinical results.

Constantino agrees that this training is beneficial to not only the clients receiving treatments, but also to the estheticians themselves: “We joke around saying that we offer them a mini-PHD. When Aestheticians come out of school their instructors and professors are top aestheticians, but never dermatologists.

I think it is fantastic to give these young professionals the opportunity to learn from the skin doctors themselves. It is a unique opportunity for them, as no dermatologist will ever train them in a school for 6 months while the aestheticians receive their salary. We invest a lot of time, resources and money in

spa Spa Of The Month

REVENUE AND RETAIL

our employees and so far it has been paying back very well as we have all the same aestheticians as we first opened doors.”

As the clinic’s Managing Partner, Constantino makes use of his background in software to keep track of the clinic’s figures. When it comes to retail figures and goal setting, Constantino says, “I don’t like giving sales target to our estheticians, but I do like talking to them and understand what they need to achieve excellence. We don’t like a company culture of pushy sales people. At Barba Skin Clinic, product sales comes organically and naturally once we have established our relationship with our clients and won their trust.”

To stay up-to-date on the brand trainings, the clinic’s lead esthetician, Stella Barba, schedules periodic training from the skin care company reps.

She also organizes sales competitions for the team with various prizes such as gift cards, products, or a happy hour!

“Most of the skin care lines we retail are sold through Physicians exclusively,” says Constantino. “We believe in having lines that have active ingredients and are science based with clinical studies to show they work. We attentively select our product lines with our dermatologists after reviewing the clinical studies. Among other brands we retail, Skinceuticals, Obagi, ZO Skin Health, Avene, Nia 24, Elta MD, Biopelle, Skinmedica, Neostrata, and Restore Sea.” When it comes to encouraging clients to make a purchase, Stella Barba says, “We are not famous for discounting our products or services. We are very professional about what we do and we deliver results. Our clients know this and they are happy to pay the price for result-oriented treatments. Additionally, if our clients buy into Barba Skin Clinic Facial Membership, they become part of the inner circle and automatically get a 10% off of skin care. We also incentivize our patients to place their reorders via phone or email with free shipping with orders over $60.”

Rundown Barba Skin Clinic 4770 Biscayne Blvd, Suite #120 Miami, FL 33137 barbaskinclinic.com

Client Ratio: 90 percent women; 10 percent men Revenue Composition: 65 percent skin care services; 35 percent retail sales

Spa Director Spotlight: Stella Barba, LE, CME is both a Licensed Aesthetician and a Certified Medical Electrologist. Trained for over a decade by her Harvard educated dermatologist sister, Stella has expertise in dermatology procedures including chemical peels, microdermabrasion, clinical facials, acne treatments, laser hair removal and medical skincare.

She graduated from San Diego State University and is an active member of the Society for Clinical and Medical Hair Removal and Society of Dermatology Skincare Specialists.

305.560.6826 Launch: February 2012 Spa Director: Stella Barba, LE, CME Amenities: five treatment rooms; waiting area; retail space

Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com

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Post

Holiday DETOX

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November2018

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Harness the power of body wraps to rid postholiday guilt

by Aurora Solis

The holidays are a time for family, friends, celebrations, and indulgence. Rather, overindulgence. Clients often come to us after the holidays feeling sluggish, bloated, and not quite themselves after feasting the month away. Luckily, we have the tools to bring them back to a state of wellness before they ring in the New Year. Here are three body wrap treatments that can help your clients feel like their pre-holiday selves!

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spa Post Holiday Detox

ALOE VERA WRAP Aloe Vera body wraps began during the King Tut Dynasty and became ever more popular in the 1980s. Using aloe (especially enzyme active aloe) for its penetrating qualities as a base for body wrap solutions will allow the product to penetrate through skin layers, to the areas where fat is stored.

OBJECTIVE: Aloe Vera has been used for skin care for centuries because it provides remarkable soothing softness for troubled skin. Properties within the aloe vera gel provide nourishment for healthy skin but also encourage healing for problem skin. Aloe has long been referred to as a wound healing plant. Whether acne, burns, rashes or insect bites, aloe vera will promote healing to the area and cell regeneration to prevent scar tissue development.

WET ROOM/SHOWER: NO TOOLS: • Aloe Vera product • Lounging table • Linens • Warming suit to keep client from being chilled in the wet wrapping • Blanket • Measuring tape • Warming pot • Gloves

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PROTOCOL: The cotton wrapping linens are applied warm/hot to open the pores for faster absorption. It will take less than 10 minutes for a technician to wrap a full body.

The linens can be applied with the client standing, laying or sitting on the treatment table. The client will lounge comfortably in the wrap for 45 minutes. It’s encouraged for the client to receive a series of body wrap treatments.

A series of seven or 12 treatments are most satisfactory for clients. With a series of 12 treatments taken four to five days apart, it’s common for a client to drop two full clothing sizes.

PRE-CARE: • Clean skin • No soap or lotion on skin prior to wrap • Dry brushing may be done • Drink water POST-CARE: • Adjusting eating habits to the new size to keep weight off AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 60 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $120

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spa Post Holiday Detox

CAFFEINE WRAP Wraps which contain caffeine are extremely effective and have a multitude of benefits, usually there is between three and five percent of caffeine present, which is a good balance to ensure best results. Caffeine is a major stimulant when it is applied to areas affected with cellulite and fatty deposits, and will effectively unclog the tissues. A caffeine wrap will help increase the metabolism, increase blood flow and facilitate the swift burning of fat in the adjoining areas.

Caffeine plays an important part in the fat burning process itself. Such body wraps are able to stimulate the process of lipolysis (fat burning), and are able to remove fat, which is accumulated in the adipocytes, the cells in which fat is stored.

Following this caffeine wrap, cellulite is visibly reduced and the tissues are effectively unclogged, resulting in skin that is smoother, softer, firmer and noticeably slimmer.

and therefore allows penetration and absorption of a percentage of caffeine into the blood. However the dose likely to penetrate the fat cells would be less than the quantity absorbed when drinking coffee.

WET ROOM/SHOWER: NO

OBJECTIVE: Caffeine is an excellent, active and powerful Lipolytic (has the ability to break down fat). It causes a cascading action, which helps with the retrieval of fat cells, inhibits glucose storage and helps slow the growth of these fat cells. Adipocytes (fat cells) are located at the hypodermis, very deep into the skin. This layer is vascularized 28

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TOOLS: • Caffeine wrap product • Biofilm wrap • Surgical gloves • Couch cover • Spatulas • One blanket • Small towels • Measuring dishes

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PROTOCOL: This is an easy and straightforward treatment to perform and has little to no preparation time and very little clear up time. The first step of the treatment consists of massaging active gels and cream into the areas of concern. The treated areas are then covered with cling film or saran wrap. The client then lies and relaxes for 30-40 minutes or 20 minutes in a heated blanket. Take off the film and saran wrap, while the excess product is removed with tissue or steam towels. The last product is then massaged vigorously into the areas being treated. Ensure that you massage in an upward rolling action, which is important to promote fat separation.

spa Post Holiday Detox

PRE-CARE: • It’s advisable to apply products on clean skin • Patch test advisable on clients with sensitive skin • Dry brushing may be done • Drink water POST-CARE: • shower after 24 hour • drink a pint of water to flush out toxins • wait two to three days before waxing or using spray tan AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 60 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $85 to $180

anti-inflammatory. It contains great amounts of flavonoids, which prevents oxidative damage, and cathechins (a compound of flavonoids) that prevent cell degeneration and have anti-cancer properties.

CHOCOLATE WRAP

OBJECTIVE: The chocolate wrap has numerous benefits for the skin. Cocoa is rich in antioxidants to support optimal skin health.

back—it must remain on the skin for 15 minutes. The guest is then wrapped in plastic to keep the product against the skin, a thermal blanket to hold in the guest’s body heat so the wrap does not dry out, and a wool blanket. At this time the guest is cocooned in layers of cozy blankets and receives a relaxing face and scalp massage. The product is then rinsed, the experience completed with an application of body moisturizer to hydrate and nourish the skin.

WET ROOM/SHOWER: YES Chocolate is not only a sweet treat that enhances mood, it is also a powerhouse of nutrients, vitamins and minerals that lends itself wonderfully to cosmetics and skin care products. Cocoa beans are packed with hundreds of substances and coveted nutrients.

Chocolate has copious amounts of vitamins B1, B2, B3, C and E. Chocolate is also packed with trace minerals that are important to healthy skin and stimulate collagen synthesis, such as calcium, iron, phosphorous, zinc, manganese and copper. Studies have found that chocolate is filled with phytonutrients, some being known antioxidants and

TOOLS • Chocolate wrap product • 1 dry skin body brush • 1 sheet of plastic (about 6 inches long and 3 inches wide) PROTOCOL: The treatment table is layered with towels, blankets, and plastic in preparation for the treatment. Begin with a dry skin body brush exfoliation to remove dead skin cells, followed by an application of chocolate mud with relaxing, massaging motions over the upper chest, stomach, legs, arms, hands, feet, and

PRE-CARE: • Clean skin • No soap or lotion on skin prior to wrap • Dry brushing may be done • Drink water POST-CARE: • No waxing or shaving within 24 hours of receiving the treatment AVERAGE LENGTH OF TREATMENT: 60 minutes AVERAGE PRICE OF TREATMENT: $125

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CUSTOM IS BETTER!

Bioelements new Custom Blend System is an exclusive one-of-a-kind system that delivers the touch points to set your services apart and allows you to create one-of-a-kind formulas that deliver personalized results. With a few drops of these highly concentrated formulas, you’ll become your own cosmetic chemist. Custom Blending is the key to zero in on your clients’ biggest needs that day.

800.433.6650 Bioelements.com

ORGANIZING YOUR OOMPH!®️

Attention Planner Fans! This beautifully curated planner and client scheduling system

by Organizing Your Oomph is perfect for estheticians of all kinds in the beauty, spa, and wellness industry. Organizing Your Oomph is a one-stop-shop that allows YOU to book your appointments, track your client count and income, budget monthly, track social media, grocery lists, notes, and so much more!

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

SPANews

903.821.5043 organizingyouroomph.com

PERFECTLY PORTABLE!

The Bohemia from Equipro is chair for seated massage. This chair is very light due to the aluminum frame and extremely easy to set up and fold. The Bohemia is made of stretch vinyl with a soft touch and is oil and stain resistant.

This portable massage chair is available in white, sand and navy.

877.324.2226 equipro-bty.com

WILLOW STREAM SPA APPOINTS NEW DIRECTOR

Jane Turner has been appointed Director of Spa Operations at Fiarmont Sonoma Mission Inn in Sonoma Valley, CA. Jane brings almost 30 years of progressive spa operation expertise and leadership to her new role. She joins the Sonoma team from sister property, Fairmont Southampton, Bermuda, where she served in the same position since 2016. Her duties at the award-winning spa will include long-range planning, leadership and brand development.

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MILK RESURFACING PROTEIN COLLAGEN PUMPKIN SPICES    

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# phillycongress19

PHILADELPHIA, PA April 7 & 8, 2019

Pennsylvania Convention Center

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice.

Business Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities

SPONSORED BY

Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program or visit us at www.LNEonline.com • USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664

BEHIND

THE SPA DOOR

with Basma Hameed, CEO of Basma Hameed Clinic, Toronto, ON and Beverly Hills, CA Basma Hameed is an innovator in the beauty field, whose medical tattoo procedure known as micro-pigment implantation, has transformed the lives of people suffering from visible scars, burns and more.

Basma’s personal experience in a childhood accident which left her with severe burns on forty percent of her face, led to experimentation with permanent makeup and later micro-pigment implantation on herself. She soon perfected a technique that changed her life and knew it had the potential to help so many others.

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With the launch of Basma Hameed Clinics in Beverly Hills and Toronto (where she was awarded Canadian Young Entrepreneur of the Year), Basma’s scar camouflage technique has helped people from all walks of life, including celebrities, to match their inner beauty to what they see on the outside.

In going behind the spa door with Basma, we take a closer look at why she was inspired to open her clinics, and how micro-pigmentation is impacting the lives of her clients. Take a look!

surgeon. He said I should take my money and go on a vacation, that was the end of the road for me. I was hurt, but to me it didn't feel like the end of the road.

I decided to get permanent eyebrows after three failed eyebrow hair transplants. The result was instant, I was so happy. So I thought, “Why not do the same procedure except use skin tone pigments to tattoo into my scar tissue to camouflage the discoloration?” At the time, no one had heard of anything like that and no one wanted to take the risk.

BACKGROUND

What was the first step you took to get education and training in this field?

When did you first get involved with permanent makeup services and why?

I grew up with a third degree burn on my face. I had over 100 surgeries and I was still constantly bullied about my appearance. At 16, I went to my plastic

I went to school for medical esthetics, and at the same time I apprenticed with a permanent makeup artist. I learned everything about skin, scars and pigmentation. I started working on my own face, and after a few treatments I started to see a huge improvement.

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CLINICS

SERVICES

Why did you decide to open your clinics?

What types of issues do clients come to see you for?

As the demand grew for the procedure, it made sense to open the clinic in Toronto and then expand further in Beverly Hills to allow more people access to the procedure.

Scars, acne scars, burns, birthmarks, stretch marks, 3D areola reconstruction, and hair restoration. Essentially, any and all types of discolorations, we will assess the area and determine if we can treat it.

Describe your clinics

How do you perform consultations with new clients?

We believe in making every client feel welcome and at home. Providing them with a warm and comfortable environment helps our clients open up about the sensitive and sometimes painful reminders that accompany their scars.

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We offer in person and virtual consultations. We see clients from all over the world and strive to make connecting with those individuals looking for our services as simple as possible.

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How many treatments does it take for the client to see results?

Each and every case is different and requires a personal assessment accompanied by a tailored treatment plan.

What is the healing process like?

This is a non-invasive procedure that does not require downtime following the treatment. It is important to let the skin heal, which can take three to five days depending on your skin.

Do you offer home care products or post-treatment instructions to clients?

Yes, we go over the aftercare at the time of the consultation and provide

them with a hard copy to bring home. We also encourage our clients to call if they have any questions following their treatments.

How does micropigmentation help clients feel more confident?

We’re able to camouflage the discolorations in the skin, allowing our clients to not only heal on the outside but also on the inside.

Why would someone consider micropigmentation?

Our procedure is suitable for a wide range of clientele. Anyone with any form of discoloration, who’s gone through surgery or suffered an accident would consider our procedure.

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How is micropigmentation different from other forms of makeup or tattoo?

Our scar camouflage procedure is not comparable to makeup or traditional tattooing. Our technique is tailored to work in damaged tissue. Commonly in the industry, lasers are thought to be the answer when it comes to “helping” with discoloration. Clients will spend time and money without seeing results. Lasers help target texture issues but they do not fix color. Our procedure is less invasive and achieves better results than lasers do.

What lessons have you learned from being in the beauty industry?

Experience is key!

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Tips To Build Your Spa Clientele With Men

by Jenny Hogan

You can significantly boost your revenue and build your business by focusing on creating the ideal spa client – and he is a man! Men are notoriously loyal clients and once they trust your services they will be coming back for years to come. They also regularly buy professional products and you will help grow your retail in a completely new sector. Brothers Angel and David del Solar and partner Aston LaFon founded 18.21 Man Made as a brand dedicated to luxury men’s grooming. This brand offers a unique prohibition-era American theme with retro packaging and masculine images. They offer advice to salons and spas on building their clientele and bringing in new male clients to boost business. LaFon shares, “The salon and spa industry tries to treat men as if we are a trend. Yet men have always been here! Now the industry is recognizing how important men’s grooming and spa services are to them.”

YOUR IDEAL SPA CLIENT

Is Male!

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business Your Ideal Spa Client Is Male

INVITE THE LADIES LaFon advises salons and spas with mainly female clients to invite the ladies to Spoil Him by offering that special Man in their life the gift of a grooming service at the salon or spa. Plan around your slowest days; typically Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday and create happy hour events on those days.

“Host a Man Day Monday or Men’s Day Wednesday; a half hour event with food, drink and goodies to help promote your services and products.

Invite your female clients to buy two men’s care products to take home; then they receive a complimentary service when they bring in their man for your gentlemen’s event.” A local craft cocktail company could be included or a local store sharing men’s bow ties or hats. Now you’ve created a new client

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who is a spa and retail client, created new money on slow days and boosted referrals!

THE NOBLE EXPERIENCE 18.21 Man Made Grooming provides instruction on how to elevate men’s services by providing the Noble Experience. This includes topics like greeting the guest properly or draping the cape during haircare or barbering in an expert manner. By improving the spa visit with simple personal touches that take no additional skill or cost, businesses can significantly improve male client retention. LaFon notes, “Salon and spa clients may not always remember the service that they received, but they will remember feeling honored and respected with a proper greeting, or that you spent time coaching them

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Men are notoriously loyal clients... after a haircut on how to style their hair at home. By offering men additional services like waxing, beard grooming, aromatherapy or additional upgrades, you could grow your price point while guests will also be inspired to keep coming back and tell their friends!”

ROGUE SPA CARE At the birthplace of Route 66 in the heart of Springfield, Missouri, the Rogue Barber Company grew from

NEW

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CHARCOAL MASK

Captures and eliminates micropollutants.

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business Your Ideal Spa Client Is Male

deep roots. This barbershop and spa is housed in one of the ten original 1936 Sinclair gas stations in America.

It is an eclectic business offering a clean haircut, straight razor shave and a nice bourbon. Owners Ryan and Dacy Mulcahy specialize in giving male clientele a classic barbering experience with modern styling. Their tagline “Enter Rogue. Leave a Gentleman” is emblazoned on the vintage gas pump in the front of the house that a local motorcycle pinstripe artist adorned with filigree.

Ryan says, “We specialize in providing an elevated, quality client experience.

We want to pamper our guests. We let them sit down and get away from everything. Here they can relax and socialize, have a drink and then walk

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out with a rad haircut.” Dacy Mulcahy runs the spa, offering men’s skincare, waxing and specialized beard therapy!

BEARD THERAPY Dacy says, “Beards are so popular right now. Beard treatments are basically a really good deep cleanse for the skin underneath the beard. Often the skin there can get clogged and cause flaking, especially if the beard is coarse or curly. To deep clean we use high frequency diodes that pass through the hair to kill bacteria with ozone. The treatment is deep cleansing, exfoliating, anti-bacterial and conditioning.

For cleansing at home, we recommend 18.21 Man Made Wash, which is sulfate free and has quinoa protein in it to

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promote the growth of both hair and beards. A little beard therapy doesn’t hurt anyone!” Mulcahy offers skincare tailored for the needs of men’s skin.

“Men’s skin produces more oil and can be more prone to acne. Our skincare is tailored more towards those needs and includes manual extractions, common for bearded men. Men are generally looking more for clean and clear skin and not anti-aging services as women are. As an extra touch we infuse hot towels with essential oils for added cleansing and aromatherapy.”

WAXING & WEDDING TRENDS Waxing is a large part of Rogue’s spa care. Dacy Mulcahy says, “I have done esthetics for over 10 years, yet my first

business Your Ideal Spa Client Is Male

year here I did more noses and ears than the past 10 years combined! Backs and chests are also common, especially with athletes. One trend we are seeing for weddings is that grooms are asking their groomsmen to grow beards!

It has become a wedding trend. The groomsmen grow beards out and then we taper and shape them. Also common for weddings is waxing for eyebrows, noses and ears. It has become a fun group thing for the groomsmen to come in here to get waxing together.

They even post it to social media!”

Having a social media presence has been paramount for the Mulcahy's. It has really helped to increase their clientele. “Word of mouth is so huge for our business. Women dictate most of the wedding plans and bring in their men. Just talking to clients in our shop and on social media about our services helps us grow every day.”

beard. All products in the line have the unforgettable scent of Sweet Tobacco Spirits, transporting you back to a prohibition era jazz lounge!

Your perfect spa client is just waiting for you to find him and spoil him.

Offer him elevated men’s services and products he will take pride in owning.

He’ll become a loyal client for years to come and tell all his friends!

Jenny Hogan is the media director at Marketing Solutions, Inc., a full-service marketing, advertising and public relations agency specializing in the professional beauty industry.

For more information, call 703.359.6000 or email MktgSols@MktgSols.com. For additional information on Quantum Health and Wellness, LLC, email info@QuantumHealthandWellness. com

RETAIL BEARD CARE

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #350 on reader service card

With the popularity of facial hair, it is important to include beard care retail products for male clients. 18.21 offers a gentle multitasking bodywash for convenience. LaFon says, “We have the Man Made Wash which is for hair and body and is sulfate-free. It is important to treat the beard with professional grade products as you would for your skin. Our Beard Balm works like a pomade for your beard and you just apply to your hands and run through your beard, using the palm of your hand to shape. For coarser beards, it acts to tame and control flyaways.” Oils and protein are important for conditioning and strengthening. Most of the 18.21 line contains quinoa, a protein that is important for strengthening and improves the health of hair with every use.

Their new Beard Balm has shea butter and beeswax, which is fantastic for keeping the beard and the skin under the beard healthy to promote growth.

The wax allows it to stay longer on the

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LONG BEACH, CA

2018

Clarawoolman: Had so much fun

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa took over the Long Beach Convention Center in California on September 23rd and 24th! This year’s show was full of new and exciting energy! From the debut of the ICES Spa Show app, to never before seen speakers on the Main Stage, attendees and exhibitors had more innovative ways to connect and learn than ever before!

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MAIN STAGE MANIA The Main Stage was hosted by none other than Michelle D’Aillaird-Brenner. Michelle owns and operates the Aesthetic Science Institute in New York. She is a licensed esthetician and cosmetologist as well as a CIDESCO Diplomat.

Her opening message to attendees focused on ways to elevate their craft, their businesses, and their personal growth.

Several new speakers debuted at the Long Beach Congress. Nerida Joy, celebrity esthetician and YouTube star gave an empowering and passionate lecture on the importance of analyzing skin, and the power that estheticians have to care for their clients. Fans came from far and wide to see Nerida speak, and she was greeted by many of her YouTube subscribers at the Main Stage.

Daniel Clary, Vice President of Education for AnteAGE, enlightened the audience on the fact and fiction surrounding stem cells in skin care. The complex nature of the subject was delivered gracefully and in a way the audience could understand. The audience even took time from their Q&A to thank Daniel for his eloquent yet informative lecture!

NEW WAYS TO CONNECT This year, The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa launched their new show app, ICES Spa Show, at the Long Beach Congress. By downloading the free app to their smartphones, (iOS or Android) attendees were able to see the exhibit floor map, create a schedule for their Workshop classes, and find all the info on their favorite speakers from the Main Stage.

The app also features a messaging feature, where attendees can connect and chat with each other through the app. There is even a “wall” where attendees can leave comments

Crystal Taylor: Can't wait for all of the classes !

and ask each other questions during the show! Push notifications delivered important announcements straight to their phones in real time!

EXHIBIT HALL Industry favorites and breakthrough beauty brands were anxious to set up their booths before the show. With this year’s increased attendance, attention to detail and high-energy were must-haves as exhibitors brought their best and brightest to Long Beach. The exhibit floor energy was at an all-time high, as thousands of attendees took to the aisles before their favorite products sold out.

Exhibitors had a blast educating and interacting with estheticians using their products and looking for new lines to carry. Each and every brand representative left energized and excited for the rest of the show season after a huge success in Long Beach

Roxanne Frannea: ready to be inspired!

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DIAMONDTOME PRESIDENT WINS ENTREPRENEUR OF THE YEAR

The Los Angeles Business Journal hosted the Women’s Council and Awards - a half-day event of inspiration, education and recognition. President of Altair Instruments, Brenda Acosta won the prestigious “Entrepreneur Founder/Owner of the Year” Award. DiamondTome will be celebrating 20 years of beautiful skin next year. Brenda has been diligently working on the yearlong marketing campaign to celebrate the estimable anniversary.

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

805.850.0800 Altairinstruments.com

2018 HUMANITARIAN AWARD

Bill Brown, Executive Director of the American Massage Therapy Association was presented the 2018 Performance Health / Massage Therapy Foundation Humanitarian Award at the American Massage Therapy Association (AMTA) National Convention held in Washington, DC. Bill was named the Executive Director of AMTA in 2013. Under his leadership, he has championed the concept of the nonprofit advantage in professional associations. Since then, AMTA has experienced 50% membership growth over the past five year.

NEW BRAND LAUNCH

KS Esthetics Professional Skincare is pleased to announce the launch of their company.

Created by a Licensed Esthetician with over a decade of industry experience. “I selected every ingredient; focusing on long term results while omitting harmful ingredients” says Owner Katelin Schebler. KS Esthetics blends high concentrations of pharmaceutical and plant-based ingredients.

ksestehtics.com info@ksesthetics.com

PHILANTHROPY IN STYLE

FarmHouse Fresh proudly sponsored the gift bags for the 3rd Annual Breaking the Silence Awards. Host Christina Milian, Presenter Caitlyn Jenner, honorees Kelly Osbourne and Tarana Burke (Founder of the #MeToo movement), and all event attendees received the coveted, bestselling FarmHouse Fresh Honey-Chai Steeped Milk Hand Lotion in the event’s gift bag. The Honey-Chai Steeped Milk Hand Lotion bathes skin in a delicious aroma of sultry organic cardamom and sweet coconut milk.

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800.323.5547 Performancehealth.com

888.773.9626 Farmhousefreshgood.com LNEonline.com

FACIAL

MASSAGE Guide

Lifting and firming with your own two hands LNEonline.com

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BENEFITS OF

Facial

Massage Why facial massage is a must for every treatment

by Judith Bourgeois

The benefits of facial massage reach far beyond the skin. In addition to improving circulation, skin tone and radiance and reducing muscle tightness, wrinkles and toxins, a 10 to 20-minute facial massage helps balance your clients from the inside out, and allows their true beauty to shine forward.

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Facial Massage Guide

WHOLE BODY IMPLICATIONS Every part of the body responds to a facial massage. You are probably familiar with the reflexology points located on the hands and feet, but there are also many pressure points on the face!

In Ayurveda, for example, 108 marma points are recognized on the body, 37 of which are located on the head, face, neck and upper chest. These energy points can be stimulated by almost any kind of touch. A good facial massage activates many of them, and thus has the potential to positively impact every organ and bodily system.

For example, stimulating and gently massaging the points around the eye orbit not only enlivens the eyes, smoothes out fine lines, and moves lymphatic waste away to help clear puffiness and dark circles, it also positively impacts the kidneys, liver and stomach.

Another example would be the master glands (pineal, pituitary) located on the forehead and scalp. Gently massaging and stimulating corresponding marma points directly affects and balances hormone levels in the whole body.

IMMUNE BOOSTER Facial massage reduces puffiness and speeds the removal of waste products by boosting circulation (blood and lymph) AND bringing more nutrients, oxygen and immune factors to the skin for a healthy glow. Unlike blood circulation, the lymph fluid needs muscle movement to circulate throughout the body to prevent sluggishness and toxic buildup. There are many lymph nodes on the face, specifically along the jawline and the edge of the chin, which greatly benefit from facial massage.

Stimulating the lymphatic system along with marma points can also help with sinus congestion. A good massage helps to relieve any congestion by improving drainage and mobilizing

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secretions, reducing the pressure that so often results in headaches.

On a broader level, as the different marma or pressure points get stimulated during massage, toxins and congestion from corresponding organs also start gently clearing away, increasing immunity.

STRESS REDUCER By relaxing tense muscles, massage reduces the levels of stress hormones that result from muscle tension, immediately benefiting the circulation, blood pressure, heart rate, energy and adding a sense of harmony and contentment.

Because facial massage is pleasurable, it increases the level of endorphins, making one both feel and look better.

The face, back of the neck, and ears are extremely sensitive to touch. They contain an abundance of nerves that feel wonderful when touched and have

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the power to better release tension throughout the entire body.

Head massage, which is an essential part of a holistic facial, dramatically calms the nervous system and brings subtle nourishment to the brain.

Working on specific marma points (center of forehead, temples, occipital ridge at the back of the skull) can also reduce and even eliminate headaches and migraines.

HARMONEY PROMOTER The caring attention clients receive during a facial massage encourages emotional release and boosts self-esteem, making them feel nurtured, loved and lovable. By massaging the head, face, neck and upper chest, communication and energetic exchange between the head and the heart is improved. When these two work in unison, an individual truly feels his or her best.

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PURE RADIANCE EUROPEAN GOLD FACIAL This nutrient rich facial leaves you red-carpet-ready with glorious results.

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24-CARAT GLOW BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card

Facial Massage Guide

Facial massage restores radiance... nervous system. It is responsible for the manifestation and the expansion of consciousness in an individual, clarity of mind and perception. Physically, Prana Vata inputs and governs the movement of information throughout the whole body and enhances the very life force in every cell. The healing touch implicit in a facial massage balances these doshas, bringing greater clarity to both body and mind.

REJUVENATE

FINDING BALANCE Ayurveda is an ancient, natural system of healing based on a comprehensive view of the laws of nature and theory of the five elements (space, air, fire, water and earth). When these elements combine they create three governing principles, or doshas (called Vata, Pitta and Kapha), which must be kept in proper balance in order for one to remain healthy. These principles apply as much to the body as they do to the mind.

From an Ayurvedic perspective, facial massage assists in bringing balance to some specific aspect of the doshas. One of these aspects is called Bhrajaka Pitta, and is related to the fire

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element in the body and located in the skin. It regulates both complexion and skin glow.

Another aspect that benefits from facial massage is Vyana Vata, made up of air and space elements. Vyana Vata governs the various forms of circulation in the body from neural information, flow of blood, lymph and circulation within the digestive system to more subtle forms of circulation such as thoughts, emotions and life force.

Probably the most intangible aspect and yet so very important to the quality of life is Prana Vata, also made up of mostly space and air element. Prana Vata is located in the head, brain and

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Facial massage plays a very important part in a holistic anti-aging treatment.

By stimulating circulation, more energy, oxygen and nourishment are brought to the target areas, which has a lifting and firming effect. Toxins, impurities and puffiness are also reduced.

As tight facial muscles relax and collagen production increases, wrinkles diminish. By helping to normalize the moisture balance in the skin, a good facial massage restores radiance for healthy, younger looking skin. Bringing balance to the skin can start right from the facial massage, provided that an oil specifically beneficial to the skin-type is being used.

Judith Bourgeo is is an Ayurvedic expert and educator for Shankara Inc., a multinational skin care company. Bourgeois possesses a varied background that includes design, teaching and healing modalities that allow her to bring a breadth of knowledge to Shankara.For more information visit shankara.com.

SLIM, FIRM AND TONE An Absolute Revolution in Body Wraps!

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Dramatically decreases the appearance of fat deposits and cellulite by 47% and helps decrease the appearance of stretch marks.

98% of women saw improvement of “orange peel” skin with a reduction of cellulite in just two weeks.

98% of women observed a decrease of 1 to 2.5 inches per measured area after one treatment.

100% found the treatment pleasant to have.

97% felt a draining sensation.

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FACE

LIFTING Massage 54

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How to contour and sculpt the face with your own two hands!

Have you ever seen a woman from another country with a stunningly beautiful face and wondered if she knew something you didn't about maintaining a flawless complexion? Every culture has its anti-aging secrets, proving that maintaining an ageless look doesn’t depend on surgeries or costly anti-aging regimens. More than ever before, multi-cultural trends in skin care and wellness are becoming all the rage in the American spa market.

While facial resculpting is a growing trend in particular, different countries have interesting and sometimes unusual methods for developing firmness and tone, promoting blood circulation and decreasing inflammation. A few of the facial resculpting methods currently in the spotlight include Chinese Meridian facial recontouring, Korean face-lifting techniques and European facial fitness, and a few others that are more exotic and have a distinctive presence in only the most exclusive spas.

by Janel Luu LNEonline.com

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Facial Massage Guide

USING THE CHINESE MERIDIANS Meridian Facial Recontouring is adapted from centuries-old Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) principles used in acupuncture, and is sometimes referred to as "gua sha." TCM meridian theory is integrated into Western esthetic techniques by massaging key meridian facial points in specific directions along energy pathways, using therapeutic jade tools that contain iron, copper, manganese and calcium.

The beneficial minerals and distinctive shapes of jade tools are believed to open up meridian energy channels while providing a non-invasive means of sculpting facial contours.

The result? Meridian facial recontouring treatments have been shown to increase surface blood circulation by 400 percent, decrease inflammation and smooth underlying fascia and facial muscles. For mature skin types, facial resculpting treatments lift sagging skin, recontour the face and minimize fine lines, while evening out skin tone and restoring a healthy-looking radi-

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ance. Younger, acne-prone skin shows improvement due to the treatment's anti-inflammatory properties.

Benefits aren’t just limited to the face. Meridian facial recontouring supports natural detoxification and clears lymphatic pathways throughout the entire body, leading to a reduction in tension and an overall improvement in bodily health. Sixty-minute treatments start at the scalp and cost $80 - $150.

gery have become avid fans of manual Korean face-lifting techniques.

Like meridian facial recontouring, Korean face-lifting techniques emphasize skin tissue firming and facial resculpting by stimulating the surface of the skin along acupuncture points.

First, moisturizer is warmed in the hands to enhance absorption, then pressed into the skin on the face and neck. The esthetician uses fists and knuckles to firmly massage underneath the cheekbones, up toward the temples, down the outer contours of the face, along the bridge of the nose to the forehead, and again down the sides of the face.

The facial concludes after the neck is firmly kneaded.

While Korean face-lifting is notorious for firm, fisted massage strokes, care should be taken not to tug or rub the skin too vigorously, which could counteract the lifting and smoothing effects. After the face-lifting treatment, a sheet mask drenched in serums containing vitamins, peptides and collagen is applied for hydration and antiaging benefits. Microcurrent can also be used in the treatment to improve facial contours, skin tone, lines and wrinkles. Korean face-lifting, or “vline facial treatment” requires regular weekly or bi-weekly visits to maintain results. Treatments last one hour and cost $75-$175.

THE KOREAN FACELIFT

FACIAL FITNESS

South Korea has one of the highest per-capita rates of cosmetic surgery procedures in the world, specifically in facial bone recontouring. In fact, one successful Korean plastic surgeon had an office that boasted twin glass towers filled to the brim with more than 2,000 pieces of jawbone collected from patients who had undergone facial bone recontouring surgery. Women looking for healthier ways to achieve the ideal “v-shaped” face without resorting to the cost and risk of cosmetic sur-

In the 1920s, a Viennese surgeon collaborated with a French cosmetologist named Renna Campbell to create facial muscle massage techniques to firm and contour the jawline. Since facial muscles tend to weaken over time and lead to sagging skin and wrinkles, the goal of this European "exercise for the face" is to strengthen and tone the facial muscles from within.

European facial fitness involves pushing and pulling the flow of blood through the jugular vein, which increas-

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Facial Massage Guide

es microcirculation in the face, nourishes skin, and tightens facial muscles and connective tissue. Also known as the “Renna” method, this technique was originally made popular by Hollywood stars including Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable.

Serums and creams are used during the muscle massage, which targets muscles that raise the cheeks, pull up the corners of the mouth, lift eye areas, and smooth out facial contours. Facial fitness will not get rid of deep wrinkles, but has been shown to increase circulation about 20 times faster than normal. The resulting increase in oxygen uptake leads to a smoother, more lifted appearance. Treatments cost $85-$225 per hour, and as with any muscular exercise, must be repeated regularly to maintain results.

MASSAGE FIT FOR A GEISHA Today, high-end spas integrate a Japanese beauty secret into "The Geisha Facial," which uses nightingale excrement to soften, firm and brighten skin. This practice dates back to the

1700s, when elegant Japanese female entertainers called geishas traditionally wore heavy white makeup containing heavy concentrations of zinc and lead, which was difficult to remove and caused serious skin and health issues.

Nightingale excrement was found to not only help remove the thick makeup, but also soften and brighten the skin.

The Geisha Facial has become a trend in high-end spas and salons that source the funky ingredient from nightingale farms in Japan. Excrement from nightingales fed only organic seed is sanitized with UV light and dehydrated.

This precious commodity is ground into white powder and mixed with rice bran for exfoliation. During the facial, the powder is mixed with water, forming a paste that is massaged into the skin before being rinsed off. The mixture's high concentrations of urea and the amino acid guanine hold in moisture, soften and tighten skin, and create a shimmery, radiant glow. Not for the faint of heart, 60-minute geisha facials in New York City cost $180-$240.

BEE STING FACIAL Elite spas in The United Arab Emirates offer the Bee Sting Facial, named for the facial mask containing bee venom.

The face's natural response to the sensation of being stung promotes blood flow, plumps fine lines, helps even out skin tone and reduces inflammation (eventually). Bee venom is also described as a natural "Botox," reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles by inhibiting the face's muscular contractions. Sixty-minute treatments cost upwards of $250 and have created a buzz in the UAE, as well as Britain's royal family.

A WORLD OF TECHNIQUES As an esthetician, your main goal is to build a community of clients who experience well-being through unique and effective treatments that stand out from the rest. The key is to avoid repeating the same methods in your facial services. If you always start from the décolleté and work upward, as with European facials, then switch your method to starting from the scalp and working downward, as with Asian techniques.

Customization and creating of a point of difference leads to a successful esthetic business. Don’t be afraid to set yourself apart!

Janel Luu has over 30 years of experience as an international educator, skin care researcher and developer, international beauty columnist and influential consulting developer for major cosmetic companies. In 1999, she founded Bielle Cosmetics, a research and development company, and in 2004 she launched Le Mieux Cosmetics, an anti-aging professional skin care brand. Luu's innate love of formulating and expertise in anti-aging cellular technology has inspired her to teach more than 20,000 professionals and physicians in the skin care industry.

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Reap The Benefits of Facial Massage With Pulsation Technology

by Candace Smith

Elizabeth Arden introduced the first day spa in 1910, known as Manhattan’s Red Door Salon. Spas during that time offered massages, manicures and facials – costly indulgences often reserved for wealthy women on special occasions. Since then, the increased demand for spa services has led to greater accessibility to individualized treatments for not only women of all income levels, but men and children. No longer limited to facial treatments and massage, innovative spas have now become the first stop for clients interested in caring for themselves through weight management, nutrition counseling, hydrotherapy, yoga or meditation.

The beauty community’s shift toward holistic self-care and do-it-yourself luxury skin care has carved a path of entry for technologically advanced skincare devices and tailored at-home facial treatments. Skin care enthusiasts have essentially torn down the walls of the spa to take on a more active role in pampering their skin at home. The spa of the future will capitalize on this shift by approaching skincare in a more comprehensive way, with estheticians not only incorporating innovative devices into their facial treatments but also offering these customizable cleansing and facial massage tools to their clients for at-home use.

HIGH TECH

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Facial Massage Guide

THE CASE FOR PULSATING SKIN CARE TOOLS Enter the pulsation skin care device. A spa-quality facial treatment is designed to cleanse, nourish and exfoliate the skin. The very best facials result in supremely hydrated skin, and a youthful, more radiant complexion. The daily visit to the spa isn’t financially feasible or at all practical for most. The one-time purchase of an effective pulsation skincare tool allows clients to address their skin’s needs on a daily basis, customizing the intensity of the treatment based on their personal preferences.

Pulsation skin care devices on the market today utilize transdermal sonic pulse technology. Pulsation cleansing deeply cleans the skin and offers gentle exfoliation without the damaging micro granules or moisture-robbing chemicals that often accompany conventional exfoliating cleansers and treatments.

Pulsation devices utilize manual stimulation to cleanse and loosen debris. This manual stimulation of the skin’s surface removes dirt and oil from the pores, reducing their visibility. The reduction in pore size results in an improved skin 60

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texture and the appearance of a more flawless complexion.

Used both in-spa and at-home, modern pulsation skincare devices benefit not only clients, but estheticians as well. When used at the beginning of a facial and once again under steam, pulsation cleansing better prepares pores for extraction, which means less time spent clearing blackheads. As mentioned previously, removing sebum and dirt from the pores will shrink their visibility, which is great news for clients who struggle with enlarged pores on their nose and cheeks. When the skin is thoroughly cleansed of all environmental pollutants, makeup residue, dirt and oil, it is now primed to better receive the nutrients of topical creams and serums.

With properly cleansed pores, skinrenewing serums and moisturizers better penetrate the layers of the skin. This restores the skin’s vitality and improves elasticity over time. Top shelf serums often come at a high price. When the skin is thoroughly cleansed of any product

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build-up, the overall efficacy of costly moisturizers, night creams, and eye serums will improve. Deeper absorption of skin care products results in an increase in moisture retention.

Gentle, routine facial massage and exfoliation improves circulation, removes dead skin cells and aids in the prevention of fine lines and wrinkles.

Transdermal sonic pulsations increase the skin’s metabolism, which increases circulation to speed up the production of collagen and elastin. The increased blood flow decreases puffiness, which again, improves circulation. The improved regeneration of skin cells leads to the appearance of younger, more vibrant skin.

For clients with acne-prone skin, the most common cause is clogged lymph nodes. Massaging the face with pulsation skincare devices stimulates the lymphatic system to release drainage related to inflamed, clogged skin. These tools massage each layer of the skin to promote drainage of lymphatic fluid.

Facial massage and gentle exfoliation

Facial Massage Guide

improves the flow of lymph, thus detoxifying the skin. Pulsation cleansing is also ideal for acne caused by epilation treatments, waxing kits and facial waxing strips. This deep, yet non-abrasive cleansing method effectively removes sunscreen lotion and creams, which can lead to fewer summertime breakouts.

Extended use of pulsation skincare devices will firm the skin and reduce signs of aging. Today’s pulsation skincare devices feature anti-aging functionality, multi-zone cleansing surfaces and customizable levels of intensity. For devices that feature anti-aging technology through sonic pulsations, the lower frequency targets wrinkle-prone areas. Facial stimulation through massage also relaxes the muscles that cause stress lines.

THE RISE OF BESPOKE SKIN CARE Clients today seek tailored skin care treatments that take into consideration their individual skin type and personal skincare concerns. The advanced customization features and ease of use for today’s pulsation device caters to every skin type and skill level, to offer personalized, professional-level at-home skincare. For instance, by adjusting the angle of the device, both clients and estheticians can target specific areas of the skin. Devices that feature multizone surfaces allow for even further customization. Finer touch-points deeply cleanse larger areas of the face like the cheeks and forehead while thicker touch-points target hard-to-reach or oil-prone areas like the T-zone.

Many estheticians cite over-cleansing as the main cause of irritation in their clients, often worsening cases of acne or inflammation. To combat this, it is advised to search for pulsation devices that include an automatic timer or preprogrammed routine. To prevent overuse and damage to the skin’s natural protective barrier, top-rated devices automatically power down after a few minutes of use. For clients with skin

damaged by past abrasive exfoliation, the suggestion is to alternate device use with a gentle, topical exfoliator.

For those with sensitive skin, a common recommendation is to use the device only once daily before bed, to allow the skin ample time to repair itself while a person rests. Cleansing with a pulsation device should be a comfortable experience. Discontinue use on clients who express feelings of discomfort. The device should not encounter the eyelids or eyes, and should be used carefully when cleansing the under-eye region.

In the same way visiting the gym once a month won’t yield the same results as visiting every day, a monthly professional facial treatment doesn’t offer the same benefits as daily facial massage and daily deep cleansing. The best skin care devices are non-abrasive, hygienic and bacteria-resistant.

Unlike many sonic cleansing devices that incorporate nylon bristles, the latest generation of sonic cleansing devices utilizes bacteria-resistant silicone.

Ensure the device is designed for daily

use. Photofacial tools that feature LED light therapy offer added benefit, with anti-aging, brightening and anti-acne capabilities built into the device.

Much has changed since Red Door opened its doors in 1910. With spa treatments and high-end skincare services readily available to the masses, customizable pulsation skin care devices allow clients to extend the effects of their professional facial while reaping the benefits of daily facial massage.

When your client leaves the spa, they leave with individualized advice on how to prep, cleanse and care for their skin at home. The use of pulsation skin care devices will assist them in this.

The future of skin care is here, and it pulsates.

Candace A. Smith is the Creative Copywriter for FOREO North America. Experience FOREO’s award-winning line of skincare tools and oral care devices.

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MARMA POINT AND

CUPPING Massage Two ancient modalities that every esthetician should know

by Alma Bocanegra

There are so many new anti-aging treatments out on the market now that it is hard to choose and decide what is best for your clients. New products, new machines, new procedures and it all comes down to how much do we want to invest in each, be it financially or in recovery time.

Did you know that there are treatments out there that have been proven for generations? So how about going with what is tried and true that has been used for thousands of years by thousands of women as far back as ancient Egypt and China? Now you are probably wondering what I am talking about. I am talking about Marma Point Facial Massage and Facial Cupping Massage, both of which have been around for generations and used by women to not only stay healthy but also to maintain a glowing youthful appearance. First, I need to explain what a Marma Point Facial Massage is and what Facial Cupping Massage is, as well as the benefits of each.

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Facial Massage Guide

MARMA POINT MASSAGE First let me explain what Marma Points are and what a Marma Point Facial Massage is. Marma points come from ancient Indian Ayurvedic healing texts believed to be 2000 years old and still in use today. Marma is a Sanskrit word which refers to any open, exposed, weak or sensitive part of the body. In Ayurveda, it is a point on the human body that is located at the intersections of lymph, veins, muscles, joints, bones, ligaments or tendons. Marma points are the vital zones (energy points) or life force (prana) within the body. A Marma point massage can be likened to a form of Indian Reflexology and a Marma Point Facial Massage is concentrating on the specific Marma Points of the face.

So, what are the benefits of a Marma Point Facial Massage?

• Relieve stress and tension, and helps reduce the appearance of fine lines • Increases circulation; more blood in the skin means more nutrients that are being delivered, consequently healthier skin cells that hold their tone and vitality • Increases lymph flow for glowing skin and lessens inflammation especially around eyes • Helps with sinus issues • Increases prana (vital energy) that keeps the skin looking fresh and alive • Promotes greater absorption of oils or creams that nourish the skin cells and skin barrier, improving skin hydration • Helps you attain quality sleep that restores the body and boosts immune response.

• Calms nerves and reduces fatigue • Supports all the senses, especially helping to relieve eye strain

FACIAL MARMA POINTS The Marma Points for the face are mirrored on both sides of the face.

According to Ayurveda, regular Marma massage helps balance the doshas (Pita, Vata, Kapha), makes the 64

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skin firm and smooth, can enhance the complexion and slow down the aging process. Marma points are energy points which play an important role in regulating the body and keeping it in a harmonious and balanced state.

Therefore, massage of these points is considered to enhance general wellbeing. Light pressure and/or circular movements will help activate the marma points, oils are generally not needed for a marma facial massage, but use of herbal oils, creams, pastes, plant extracts or your favorite facial oil or serum can enhance the treatment.

FACIAL CUPPING MASSAGE Next, is Cupping; what it is, where it came from and the benefits of cupping.

Cupping was found in one of the oldest recorded medical textbooks as far back as 1500 B.C. and used for a variety of

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healing practices. Some say Cupping came from China and others say from Egypt, either way it is a very old form of medicine actively being used today.

Many of us have heard about cupping on the body and have even seen some of the effects or “bruises” (not actually bruises) of cupping on the body, from some famous people like Michael Phelps, Jennifer Aniston and Gwyneth Paltrow.

Some people are afraid to receive a facial cupping massage, as they believe it is too aggressive and will leave marks on the face. This is totally untrue. Facial cupping is different from the way most people perceive it, (as long as it is done correctly) it is actually a relaxing detox massage using small cups following a specific pattern and movement. Here are some of the anti-aging benefits of facial cupping:

Facial Massage Guide

You can usually see benefits after the initial treatment.

• Increases blood circulation to face, head and neck which helps stimulate collagen and elastin production • Increases circulation and absorption of nutrients to the skin • Improves absorption of facial products • Drainage of stagnant fluids which produces a more youthful glow • Reduces puffiness and edema • Helps alleviate sinus issues • Tone chin, jawline, neck and décolleté • Smooths fine lines and wrinkles These benefits alone are very helpful for anti-aging and keeping the skin looking fresh and youthful looking. You can usually see the benefits after the initial treatment but as with most therapies the results are cumulative if you are looking for long lasting results.

Combining both of these very old and powerful treatments can help with a more youthful and glowing appearance.

PROTOCOL Begin with the Marma point massage and activating the prana (energy points) of the face with light circular clockwise movements.

First you want to begin by cleansing the face with your favorite facial

products. Then using either your favorite serum or light facial oil massage the neck lightly using upward strokes from collarbone to chin. Then massage the marma points on the face using your middle finger with light circular clockwise motions.

Marma massage: 1. Center or chin 2. Corners of mouth 3. Between nose and upper lip 4. The outer corners of the nose 5. Center of cheekbones 6. Lower lids, (just above cheekbones, just press gently as this area is too delicate for massage) 7. Junction between eyebrows and nose, on lower part of eyebrow ridge 8. Temples 9. Third eye (6th chakra, center of forehead) 10. Crown of head

Cupping massage: 1. Center of chin (with both cups simultaneously) out to ears 2. Corners of mouth out to ears 3. Between nose and upper lip out to ears 4. Outer corners of nose to ears 5. Center of cheekbones out to ears 6. Outer edge of eyes to temples 7. Between eyebrows out to temples 8. Middle of forehead out to temples 9. Top of forehead out to temples 10. Drain from temples to front of ears 11. Drain from front of ears to behind ears to down side of neck to clavicle.

Each of these treatments can be done independently of the other and you will still receive the relaxing and anti-aging benefits that each one can provide. You can also combine the treatments with your favorite products to provide that extra effectiveness without the high cost of surgeries and injections.

Alma Bocanegra is the national technical manager for Pino Natural Spa Therapy. Her professional background is a blend of health and wellness training as an

When done with the Marma point massage, move on to facial cupping. Add a bit more of your favorite facial oil and beginning with the first marma point, lightly suction skin with cups and move from center of face out to sides of face.

EMT, nursing assistant, massage therapist, massage therapy instructor and continuing education provider. Bocanegra has contributed to Japanese travel magazines, as well as a Japanese health show called Sole of the Foot.

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FACIAL MASSAGE

Toolkit

2

From high tech devices to luxurious creams and oils...

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1

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6

1. WELL CBD, Massage Cream & Massage Oil • well-cbd.com 2. Vivid MD Skincare, Balancing Moisture Cream • vividmdskincare.com 3. Dr. Temt Skincare, Foot Cream • drtemt.at 4. Marin Bee, Honey Butter • marinbee.com 5. QYKSONIC, Zoe • qyksonic.com 6. Foreo, IRIS Eye Massager • foreo.com 7. L & I Apothecary, Face & Body Goat Milk & Honey Cream • lniapothecary.com 66

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Plump and firm the skin with pulsating massage tools 9 8 11

10 12

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8. Shira, Luminous Pearl Moisturizer • shiraesthetics.com 9. Phytomer, Radiance Replenishing Oil • phytomerusa.com 10. Sothys Paris, Smoothing Warming Gel • sothys-usa.com 11. Raffaele Ruberto Skin, R-Lift X-Calibur Firming and Contouring Device 12. GlowBiotics Probiotic Skincare, Advanced Anti-Aging Replenishing Oil • glowbiotics.com 13. Kerstin Florian, Grapefruit Black Pepper Bath & Body Oil • kerstinflorian.com 14. Essence of Vali, Sleep A Bedtime Ritual • essenceofvali.com 15. Darphin, L'Institut Facial Sonic Cleansing and Massaging Expert • darphin.com LNEonline.com

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RICE BRAN OIL A Japanese secret for softening the skin

by Dr. Steven Wang Rice bran is a prized anti-aging ingredient in Asia. Historically, Japanese women for centuries have used the leftover water from washing rice in the bath to soften and smooth their skin. Today, rice bran and rice bran oil are used to brighten skin and remove blemishes and impurities.

Why is rice bran oil good for the skin? What is in the rice that will provide these benefits for skin and general health? Read on. We will explain the top eight key features of rice bran oil and a long list of skin and health benefits for this ingredient derived from this humble dietary staple.

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organic & wellness Rice Bran Oil

HOW IS RICE BRAN OIL MADE: Rice bran oil is extracted from the germ as well as the husk of rice.

Manufacturers squeeze the hull or even bran of the rice grain and turn it into oil. A few companies use natural and “cold pressed” techniques to preserve the organic quality of the product.

Rice bran oil contains a large percentage of fatty acids that are rich in Omega 3 and 9. As mentioned above, the oil is an excellent source of moisturizer for the skin!

Aside from skin benefits, rice bran oil is well known in Asian cuisine. It is ideal for deep as well as stir-frying because it has a very high smoking point. It is also good for salad dressings because it mixes very easily with many other ingredients. Like most of the vegetable oils, rice bran oil has several distinctive elements, such as

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its nut-like aroma and unique nutritional features.

6. A gentle oil ideal for dehydrated,

KEY FEATURES OF RICE BRAN OIL:

flaky, delicate, mature or fragile skin (e.g baby's body), in which extra moisture is needed.

1. Contains rich levels of vitamins, nu-

7. Moisturizes hair and adds sheen and

trients, antioxidants, and proteins

2. Contains gamma oryzanol, a po-

luster to individual hair fibers without weighing them down.

tent antioxidant. It has been used as a supplement for people with high cholesterol and symptoms of menopause

8. It is readily absorbed into the skin.

3. Possesses a unique and flavorful

Rice bran oil is well known in Asian as one of the anti-aging ingredients. In Japan, the phrase “you have a rice bran splendor” has been used to compliment a woman’s youthful complexion.

Rice bran oil has the potential to promote hydration, reduce pigmentation, even out skin tones, and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

aroma

4. Contains a high proportion of fatty acids

5. A good source of tocotrienols, an

antioxidant that is more potent than vitamin E.

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SKIN BENEFITS OF RICE BRAN OIL

organic & wellness Rice Bran Oil

6. Promotes The Endocrine System: Rice bran oil is full of

vitamin E. This vitamin increases the performing of the endocrine system by equalizing the discharge of bodily hormones.

7. Strengthens Immunity: Rice bran oil is abundant with antioxidants needed to combat free radicals and improve host immune status.

8. Promotes Cardio Wellness: Compared to other oil sources,

rice bran oil has lower cholesterol, and thereby lower the risk of various cardiovascular events.

Rice bran oil is a potent and natural oil that offers a wide range of skin and health benefits. It has been adopted in cooking and cosmetic application.

Dr. Steven Wang is the Director of Dermatology and

These skin benefits of rice bran oil are largely attributed to the high level of vitamin E, vitamin B, omega-9, a rich array of fatty acids. In addition, it contains a rich source of antioxidants, such as beta-carotene, CoQ10, and lycopene, that can shield skin from environmental and internal stressors. Antioxidants are vital to sustaining that younger and healthier glow.

Lastly, the oil is very light and readily absorbed into the skin. It carries all the rich actives into the skin to deliver the desired benefits. By the way, this oil does not leave the skin feeling greasy or tacky. So, give it a try!

HEALTH BENEFITS OF RICE BRAN OIL

Dermatologic Surgery at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center at Basking Ridge New Jersey. In 2016, he cofounded the Dr. Wang Herbal Skincare Company with his father, a licensed acupuncturist and herbalist in NYC. Their philosophy is to combine the best of herbal Eastern tradition with Western science to help consumers and patients to attain a healthier and beautiful skin.

Brighten & Rejuvenate with Plant Meristematic Cells Extract

1. Weight Reduction: Rice bran oil is a superb option for 2. Lowers Cholesterol Levels: Based on a research, rice

bran oil significantly lowered overall cholesterol as much as 42 percent and also LDL levels of cholesterol around 62 percent in animals

3. Improves Healthy Growth of Hair: The presence of ferulic acid and esters in rice bran oil can potentially boost hair health.

4. Strengthens The Performance of Liver: The ingredients

and chemicals in rice bran oil can improve the performance of the liver function. It also protects the liver from developing fatty liver.

5. Eases Symptoms of Menopause: The compound gamma

Oryzanol present in rice bran oil is considered to be potent in alleviating symptoms associated with menopause.

Made in USA Dr. Jeff Skin Care Toll-Free: 1-888-316-3683

Email: info@dr-jeff.com Web: www.dr-jeff.com

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cooking. It is free of trans fatty acids.

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ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & Wellness News

ROSES ARE RED…

Ilike Organic Skin Care's Rose Petal Body Lotion is now available in an airless, 100% recyclable pump dispenser.

This lotion moisturizes and resuscitates skin prone to sensitivity including rosacea, eczema and irritation.

Organic rose oil soothes dryness and brings relief to sunburned skin and new red stretchmarks. Shea butter nourishes and keeps the skin supple. Vitamin A renews and helps improve the tone and texture of the skin.

888.290.6238 ilikeorganics.com

ULTIMATE PROTECTION

Developed to tackle dehydration, redness and increase elasticity, Iremia’s Protective Cream is a rich blend of Avocado Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Rose Damascena Flower Oil and Aloe Vera smoothed with Coco Butter and Beewax for a comforting application. After cleansing, warm a pea sized amount between fingers and gently apply onto the skin.

iremiaskincare.ca hello@iremiaskincare.ca

A POLISHED DEBUT

FarmHouse Fresh® debuts a collection of three freshly farm-harvested cane sugar Lip Polishes to keep lips smooth and exfoliated year-round.

They include: Blackberry Wine, made with crushed organic Oregon blackberries and Texas merlot grapes; Beach Punch, made with California dates, Texas honey, and pineapple juice; and bestselling flavor Whoopie!, made with Georgia cane and confectioners’ sugar.

farmhousefreshgoods.com

A STEP UP FOR CBD SKIN CARE

Color Up Therapeutics is the first CBD-infused brand on the market with an advanced comprehensive skin care line, as well as a full protocol for both professionals and at-home care. With nine skin care products so far, the plant-based, cruelty-free CBD products are intended to balance the mind, body and spirit.

720.421.5355 coloruptherapeutics.com

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Celluma LED Series

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Inquiries for clinical use and resale packages call 714-978-0080

BioPhotas, Inc. | 1000 E Howell Ave, Unit A, Anaheim, CA 92805

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #295 on reader service card

info@biophotas.com | Fax: (714) 978-0085

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HOW IT’S MADE: MAKEUP BRUSHES A closer look at the production of natural and synthetic brushes

by Cristina Beecham

Makeup brushes are essential to the craft. In fact, some might say that an artist is only as good as his or her tools. Whether or not you believe that mantra, it is undeniable that quality brushes to make a difference in your work. But have you ever wondered how your makeup brushes are constructed? From handle length, to choosing bristle type, to density and length of bristles, manufacturers have to consider the wide range of tasks a brush is needed for. Let’s take a dive into the world of makeup brushes and see exactly how they are made!

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image How It’s Made: Makeup Brushes

A makeup brush consists of three main parts: the bristles, the ferrule and the handle.

The bristles are the active end of the makeup brush. They are what picks up product and applies it to the face or body. The very tip of the bristles is called the “toe,” and the end of the bristles that are secured into the ferrule are the “heel.” The length, softness, shape and amount of hairs in the brush are dictated by what makeup application and products the brush has been designed for.

The ferrule is the metal piece that holds in the bristles and secures them to the handle of the brush. The ferrule is usually made of metal and less commonly from plastic. The bristles are held in place by the top of the ferrule, which is sometimes pinched flat, and 76

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has a good dollop of glue. The bottom of the ferrule is glued to the handle.

Protecting the ferrule of the brush is essential to ensuring its longevity. To keep your brushes from falling apart, take great care to prevent water from settling into the ferrule, as water can cause the glue to loosen in the brush's internal structure, which can lead to a broken brush. To keep your brushes happy, hold the hairs of the brush downward toward the flow of water while washing, so that the water trickles away from the ferrule. Once you've finished cleaning, lightly squeeze off the water with your fingers and lay the brushes flat on a clean towel. Allow the ends of the brushes to overhang to allow for faster, more complete drying.

Handles can be made from wood, resin or plastic. Today, some are even

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Long handles tend to give the artist more control... made from recycled or sustainable materials. The handle is where any brand logo and other information about the brush (like it’s purpose or size) is printed. Brushes are made with varying lengths, depending on their intended purpose. For example, a set of travel brushes might have shorter handles to offer ease of use when packing or traveling. Long handles tend to give the artist more control, as the closer to the end of the handle the artist holds

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image How It’s Made: Makeup Brushes

the brush, the less pressure and pigment applied.

BRISTLE TYPES The bristles of a makeup brush can be made from animal hair or synthetic hair, or a combination of the two.

• ANIMAL HAIR Animal hair bristles are often referred to as “natural” bristles and often come from animals, including goats, badgers, squirrels, weasels (also called sable) and horses, or a combination of hairs.

The type of hair chosen depends on the softness and cost desired by the manufacturer.

Animal hair has been traditionally used for makeup brushes for decades.

The cuticle of the brush hair is layered with an outer coating on the hair shaft, which allows it to pickup and distribute product evenly. Because the bristles are real hair and have a cuticle, this

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means that natural bristle hairs are not ideal for use with cream products, as they pick up a large volume of cream and can lead to clumping or streaking.

The choice of hair type depends on the intended use of the brush. Sable hair is soft and flexible and comes to a fine tip, which is great from more precise applications. On the other hand, badger hair is stiff and is used in brushes that need a defined shape, like brow and liner brushes. Goat hair is extremely soft, which is great for powders.

If you find yourself asking how the bristles get to the brush in the first place, the answer is simple. The hair is often taken unwillingly from the animals and it is often not a very kind process.

• SYNTHETIC HAIR Synthetic brushes are made from 100 percent manufactured fibers, such as nylon and polyester. These bristles, therefore, do not have a cuticle and are very smooth. Synthetic bristles

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trap less product than natural bristles, making them the perfect choice for applying gels, creams and liquids.

Some synthetic brushes are specifically made for applying powder and some great models are on the market today, making them a more sustainable substitute for natural bristles. Synthetic bristles are made in factories where the hair can be created, sorted, cut, and dyed. In fact, synthetic bristles are often dyed black or brown to mimic the look of natural bristles.

The types of brushes you choose are up to personal preference. It is a good idea to have a mixture of different choices, including natural and synthetic hairs. Keep a 100% synthetic brush set on hand, as many clients have vegan friendly preferences, or may even have an allergy to the type of natural bristles in your kit. Always stay educated about your manufacturers methods and materials to make sure your brushes are not only good for your client, but also for the environment.

image How It’s Made: Makeup Brushes

NATURAL HAIR

SYNTHETIC HAIR

Animal hair such as squirrels, goats, horses, badgers and weasels

Man-made materials such as nylon and polyester

Applying powder makeup

Applying creams, liquids or gel products.

Some synthetic brushes can be used with powder

Varies from soft to firm, depending on hair type

Firm yet flexible. More variations available

DURABILITY

Hair is prone to shedding and breakage.

Can dry out over time. May lose shape if not cared for

Keeps shape well, dries more quickly, not prone to drying out or losing softness

CLEANSING

Can trap powder, dead skin and bacteria due to natural cuticle. Must be cleaned and disinfected frequently

Easier to clean due to lack of cuticle.

ETHICALITY

Not all are cruelty-free

Vegan friendly

MADE FROM BEST USED FOR

FEEL

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20418

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