LNE & Spa | August 2014

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

August 2014

$7.50

Boldijarre Koronczay, President Éminence Organic Skin Care “As a skin care ingredient maintaining the potency of Vitamin C is a challenge.

We have formulated an exclusive blend of stabilized Vitamin C ingredients that do not degrade or lose their antioxidant benefits once exposed to oxygen, providing the most powerful anti-aging results.�

Reduces fine lines and wrinkles Brightens skin and lightens dark spots Clarifies and evens complexion Prevents inflammation to visibly calm skin

Antioxidant Super Food for the Skin 47% reduction in free radical damage in just 3 hours!*

Super foods become super skin care ingredients to nourish and rescue the skin with a potent dose of stabilized Vitamins C+E for advanced age prevention and correction.

If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and BiodynamicŽ skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.

ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE PROVIDER OF PREMIUM SKIN C ARE * as evaluated by the reduction in UV induced ROS in human ex vivo skin after 3 hour application Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card

CONTENTS AUGUST 2 0 1 4

VOLUME 29

N U M BE R 8

organic & wellness

skin

Extractions: Back to Basics 28 “Hands-On” Detox 36 Skin News 43

Aloe and Spa 102 The Science of Feeding the Skin 105 Cosmic Zen 109 Organic & Wellness News 113

Cosmic Zen

all men’s guide

Targeting the Male Client 46 Man Up 50 Carte Essentials 54 Closing the Deal 58 The Manzilian 60 Men Like to Look Their Best Too... Photo Feature 62

When weightlessness meets the ancient Indian art page 109

All the latest on how to market and cater to male clients.

All Men’s Guide

ALL MEN’S GUIDE GUIDE

page 45

image

Nails au Naturel Trending This Fall... The Eyes Have it!

Schoolboy Brows 122 Image News 125

115 117

Thinking of creating, revamping or renewing your lash bar? Don't hold back!

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa's Lash Out Guide walks you through all the steps…

Nails au Naturel page 115

Poseidon’s Riches Thalassotherapy-inspired treatments page 72

spa

Teenage Crush 66 Poseidon’s Riches 72 Oxygen Treatments Spa News

extras 78 83

From the Editor Spa of the Month: Sir Spa, Chicago, IL Calendar of Events Ad Index

6 10 126 130

business

The Art of the Client Consultation 84 Appeasing an Unhappy Guest 90 Contagious Inspiration 96 Business News 100

Cover

courtesy of Sothys USA Photograph: Jean-François Verganti Model: Vincent Clerc

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

Page 4 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

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EDITOR

While the concept of males in the

spa is no longer a new phenomenon, it is constantly evolving.

Keep your finger on the pulse of this crucial segment of your clientele. Men make especially valuable clients because—once acquired—they tend to be extremely loyal.

This month’s All Men’s Guide on page 45 covers everything you need to know about catering to men! Find out how to make your spa a man-tastic place for masculine pampering, grooming and wellness services. Featured subjects include “Targeting the Male Client,” “Man Up,” “Carte Essentials,” “Closing the Deal” and “The Manzilian.” Also, check out a full lineup of some of the best male products on the market in our photo feature, “Men Like to Look Their Best Too...”

And men are not the only topic trending in the August issue!

As the school year draws near, now is a great time to get fresh ideas for teen treatments in “Teenage Crush” on page 66. Also learn specific techniques for addressing acne from “Extractions: Back to Basics” on page 28.

Consider incorporating something exotic into your spa menu.

“Poseidon’s Riches” on page 72 inspires you to offer sea based thalassotherapy treatments at your facility—even if you are not located on the sea! These treatments are guaranteed to set you apart from almost any other spa in the country.

Learn how “The Art of the Client Consultation” on page 84 can help you demonstrate the importance of professional skin care to your clients and build a strong retail business.

With so many of your clients suffering from sunburns, now is a great time to consider the pairing of “Aloe and Spa” for your summer treatments on page 102.

Daring looks are all the rage this coming fall in eye makeup, as demonstrated in “Trending this Fall… The Eyes Have It!” on page 117. Complete these adventurous looks with full and fabulous “Schoolboy Brows,” explained on page 122.

As you plan your schedule for the coming fall, do not forget to mark your calendar for the biggest career advancing event of the season happening early next month—The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach, CA, at the Long Beach Convention Center on September 7-8. As always, the best skin care and spa industry congress on the West Coast features quality networking experiences and top names in the industry, presenting innovative topics to help you advance your professional knowledge and skills!

Please kick back, relax and enjoy the latest issue of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa as you savor the last full month of summer!

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com

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Page 6 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

Better Peptides Better Results Now with over 60 peptides, growth factors, and botanical stem cells, HydroPeptide celebrates its 10th anniversary with a new look and improved formulations. See what makes HydroPeptide the innovative authority in peptide skin care.

A NEW LOOK AND A NEW AWARD. “Thanks to all of you, our friends and fans. HydroPeptide’s Power Serum is the winner of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques’s Spa Best Award for Best Serum. Our serum restores a silky and elastic texture to skin with a blend of volumizing peptides, growth factor activators and alpha lipoic acid.”

In a 6 week study

100% of participants

BEFORE

noticed a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and

-APRIL ZANGL

wrinkles when using

CEO, HYDROPEPTIDE

HydroPeptide’s Power Serum in combination with combin

SKIN CARE TIP: Look younger in 10 minutes - apply Power Serum before applying HydroPeptide’s Purifying Mask. Leave our Purifying Mask on for 7-10 minutes. After removing the mask, follow with another Power Serum

AFTER

Power Lift.

application and finish with your favorite HydroPeptide moisturizer for instant visible results.

WWW.HYDROPEPTIDE.COM Call now to request samples for your day spa, resort spa, medi spa, or doctors office.

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800.932.9873

3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@lneonline.com Graphic Designer Charlie Jackman charlie@lneonline.com Associate Editor Nathalie Gouillou nathalie@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Fougere ache@lneonline.com Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Mayli Tenorio mayli@lneonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontr ibutors Ahmed Abdullah, M.D., F.A.C.S., F.I.C.S. Rhonda Allison Dena Bruckman Diane Buccola David S. Goldstein

Nathalie Gouillou Katie Hill Celeste Hilling Deborah Lippmann Alex Koo Murray Lydia Sarfati Dori Soukup

David Suzuki Kristina Valiani Mary Van David Vargas Anna G. Wilhem Amanda Clinton Winter

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilities exist.

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Page 8 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

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SPA

OF THE MONTH

CITY MAN-SCAPE SIR SPA CHICAGO, IL

by Amanda Clinton Winter

IT IS NOT YOUR TYPICAL SPA GETAWAY —there are no tranquil forests or ponds in the vicinity. In fact, it is quite the contrary, it is right in the middle of the bustling city of Chicago.

Yet the locale stands out for its slick, simple and modern look among the neighboring buildings.

And once past the front door, guests find the serene, relaxing atmosphere and pampering they seek—that is Sir Spa, or as they like to tout themselves, “the ultimate Chicago spa for men.”

Up and running since 2006, Sir Spa is among the very few spas that cater specifically to the gents (although women will not be turned away).

It might seem like an odd or risky choice for some, yet men are increasingly going for spa services, as looking good and feeling good has come to be associated with professionalism.

Page 10 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

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spa of the month | sir spa

For Sir Spa, the concept of an all guy locale works. “We really make it our business to ensure that all of our clients are comfortable and that every need is met,” says Thomas Hogan, Sir Spa supervisor. “We are generally booked all year long.”

In its less than 10 year tenure, Sir Spa has received many accolades from local and national media, and has been recognized in the past 4 years as one of the five top spas for men.

Among the many high-end luxury spas Chicago has to offer, Sir Spa is a unique retreat for men who want quality treatment in an environment they can relate to.

With dark rich woods, black leather seats and fire red walls, the spa reflects a simple yet modern and professional look that even the manliest of men can feel comfortable in.

Their menu is to the point, with words their male clientele can identify with, and other less appealing ones—some deemed to be turnoffs for men—banned from the spa’s vocabulary.

Page 12 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

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spa of the month | sir spa After being greeted in the front lobby, guests are then taken to the locker room where robes, sandals and towels are provided. Rainforest-like showers, a steam room and an assortment of complimentary amenities are made available for guests as they await their treatments. And the pampering does not end there. Once their service has ended, guests are offered wine, beer and snacks of all kinds, because as the saying goes, “the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach.”

With seven treatment rooms that offer anything from massages to facials, bodyworks, waxing, nail treatments and airbrush tanning, Sir Spa covers the essentials with a team of 13 massage therapists, five estheticians and two nail technicians.

Relax. Refuel. Renew.

The three simple words adorning the wall of the reception area seemingly say it all—that is what

men can expect to get when they come to Sir Spa. Their marketing technique follows along the line of Sir Spa’s philosophy—it is simple yet effective. When it comes to gathering new clients, Sir Spa focuses on the web and social media. But they have also found that being involved with the community helps spread the word about the spa.

Hogan says that the spa volunteers its services at some summer events and street festivals, leaving it to chance that recipients of these complimentary services will promote their treatments after getting a quick massage or other treat. “We strive to make the best first impression,” says Hogan. “We leave the rest to the excellent service that our clients receive when they are here.” Content with the feedback they receive and the treatments they offer, Sir Spa has only changed its menu twice since it opened.

“Pick the best and stick with it,” says Hogan.

Page 14 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

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Their signature treatment is their 90 min SIR Customized Massage ($145), says Hogan.

Whether guests seek relief for overexerted muscles or simply want their mind and body to escape, Sir Spa’s massage therapist makes this personalized treatment all about a guest’s specific needs (the SIR Customized Massage is also available for 60/120 min, $100/$190).

As far as packages are concerned, Hogan says The Monarch trumps all. Guests get the full “royal” treatment with a 60 min SIR Customized Massage followed by a Fresh Face Treatment (a revitalizing facial that provides cleansing, toning, exfoliation and hydration for the skin) and a Hand and Foot Detail—Sir Spa’s idea of a mani-pedi (3 hr, $200).

Sir Spa also offers a Hot Stone Massage, where warm and smooth basalt stones help release muscle tension and stimulate circulation with the help of the therapist’s synchronized moves (75 min, $140). The Tune-Up Massage focuses on the back, neck and shoulders and is great for chronic pain (30 min, $60). Very affordable massage add-ons include Reflexology (15 min, $25) and Scalp Massage (15 min, $25).

Page 16 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

be ageless with the new Perfecting Neck & Décolleté

as seen in O, The Oprah Magazine

Please visit us at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Long Beach Booth 209

before

after five weeks visit

neckanddecollete.com to learn more

PCA SKIN PCA SKIN PCA SKIN

PCA SKIN PCA SKIN PCA SKIN

Perfecting Neck & Décolleté used twice daily. No professional treatments were applied. Results may vary.

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spa of the month | sir spa

Before getting a facial, guests can receive a complimentary Men’s Skin Assessment, where a Sir Spa skin care expert offers a skin evaluation and discusses ways to improve skin. Once that assessment is taken care of, guests can indulge in the SIR Customized Face Treatment, where the esthetician designs a facial based on the client’s needs. It includes a cleansing, exfoliation, customized mask and UV protection (60 min, $100).

The Age Recovery Face Treatment includes a microdermabrasion treatment enhanced with anti-aging products such as retinol, peptides and antioxidant rich serums to reveal healthier,

SIR SPA 5151 N. Clark Street, Chicago, IL 60640 773.272.7000 sirspa.com SIR SPA FACTS Opened: 2006 Owner: Vinod FACILITY: • Seven treatment rooms • 13 massage therapists • Five estheticians • Two nail technicians PRODUCT LINES USED AND RETAILED: MenScience, Jack Black, Art of Shaving, DS Laboratories, glö therapeutics, Yon-Ka SIGNATURE TREATMENT: SIR Customized Massage (60/90/120 min, $100/$145/$190) *The spa menu has changed twice since its inception.

renewed skin (75 min, $175). Clients can also go for the Refining Microdermabrasion Treatment (30 min, $125), or add a Chemical Peel ($50 upgrade), an Enzyme ($30 upgrade), or even Microdermabrasion ($65 upgrade) to their facial.

Their body treatments feature the SIR Scrub with a soothing lavender and mint salt scrub (45 min, $75); the Detoxifying Mud Wrap that includes a scalp and neck massage (60 min, $100); a Hydration Wrap, where after a light exfoliation the body is lathered in a moisturerich balm before ending with a hydration lotion (45 min, $75); and a Clarifying Back Treatment (back facial) to help clean, exfoliate and heal blemishes (45 min, $75).

Page 18 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

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spa of the month | sir spa

The spa also offers Hand Detail ($20), Foot Detail ($40) and a Foot Recovery that includes a softening pedicure for additional exfoliation, a moisture infusing treatment mask and paraffin to nourish dehydrated feet (60 min, $65).

All kinds of waxing services are also available (including the SIR-zilian, $65), as well as hair and color services. Finally, their packages feature The Crown Jewels, their best of the best that includes a SIR Customized Massage, a SIR Scrub, Hydration Wrap, Age Recovery Face Treatment, Hand Detail and Foot Recovery.

Lunch is included as well (5 hr 30 min, $600).

And if relaxation means being close to one’s sweetheart, Sir Spa offers special couples packages (60/90 min, $175/$250), or their Couples Escape, a 1 hr SIR Customized Massage and SIR Customized Face Treatment topped off with sparkling wine and chocolates (2 hr, $340).

Prices are per couple.

Busy men need to be spoiled too. Leave it to Sir Spa to give them a slice of heaven right in the middle of the Windy City. n Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, MA, and a master’s degree in Public Relations from the University of Miami.

Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

Page 20 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

photos courtesy of Sir Spa

Busy men need to be spoiled too.

Leave it to Sir Spa to give them a slice of heaven right in the middle of the Windy City.

THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

REGISTRATION ALL INCLUSIVE

$70 $45

2 DAY ADMISSION

PRESENTED BY

1 DAY ADMISSION

SAVE WHEN YOU REGISTER BY 08/15/14 2 Day admission is $90 after 08/15/14 1 Day admission is $55 after 08/15/14

• All General Session Lectures and Demos • Wellness: Mind and Body Seminar • Medical Esthetics In Your Spa • Image Seminar • Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • Salon/Spa Business Management Seminar • Spa Director Symposium • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Exhibit Hall with Hundreds of Exhibitors

5 PA

SK

CARE & S IN

WAYS TO REGISTER:

PHONE:

1.800.471.0229 1.305.443.2322

ONLINE:

LNEONLINE.com

W

FAX:

Registration@LNEONLINE.com 1.305.443.1664

U

SH

O

SA

E-MAIL: IN T H E

MAIL:

Aesthetic Congress Communications 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd.

Coral Gables, FL 33134

SHOW HOURS: SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 7 9:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

MONDAY SEPTEMBER 8 10:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.

MAKE YOUR HOTEL RESERVATION Discounted congress hotel rates sell out quickly!

Limited discounted space available.

Visit LNEONLINE.com

LONG BEACH, CA

SPONSORED BY

SEPT 7 & 8 • 2014 LONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER 300 East Ocean Blvd. Long Beach, CA 90802

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 21

GENERAL SESSION

Located inside the exhibit hall

GENERAL SESSION

INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 7

10:00 a.m.

OPENING CEREMONY by Nina Curtis

10:10 a.m.

EMPOWERING YOUR BODY, MIND AND SPIRIT: PERSONAL EMPOWERMENT by EuGene Gant

10:40 a.m.

TREATMENT FOR MEN (DEMO) by Lake Louise and Adina Diaz

11:20 a.m

HYPOXIC SKIN CELL STRESS & BIO-OXYGEN (LECTURE) by Christine Heathman

11:50 a.m.

CRYSTAL AWARD PRESENTATION Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa honors Christine Heathman

12:05 p.m.

YIN YANG TOUCH (DEMO) by Samuel Wong

12:45 p.m.

NATURAL BEAUTY MAKEUP LOOKS (DEMO) by Pamela Hackeman

MONDAY SEPTEMBER 8

10:30 a.m.

WELCOME CEREMONY by Nina Curtis

10:40 a.m.

EMPOWERING YOUR BODY, MIND AND SPIRIT: MENTAL CLARITY FOR LONGEVITY by EuGene Gant

11:10 a.m.

WINNING THE BATTLE AGAINST SUN DAMAGE (LECTURE) by Ben Johnson, M.D.

11:40 a.m.

MICRONEEDLING (DEMO) by Kristin Groop

12:20 p.m.

MINI TREATMENTS: AN EASY WAY TO BRING IN NEW CLIENTS AND BOOST RETAIL SALES (LECTURE) by Diane Buccola

12:50 p.m.

BODY SUGARING (DEMO) by Shannon O’Brien

SEMINARS

Located inside the exhibit hall

SEMINARS

INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 7

2:00 p.m.

3:15 p.m.

2:00 p.m.

3:15 p.m.

WELLNESS: MIND AND BODY SEMINAR ROOM 202 A

Energy Healing Spa Remedies From Nature by Linda Bertaut Chakra Balancing Treatments: Introducing Transformative Esthetics Into Your Practice by Linda Bertaut

CUTTING EDGE SALON/SPA BUSINESS SEMINAR ROOM 202 B Esthetician Success Rock Star Rituals by Lori Crete How To Handle “Really Angry” Customers by Lori Crete

MONDAY SEPTEMBER 8

2:00 p.m.

3:15 p.m.

2:00 p.m.

3:15 p.m.

MEDICAL ESTHETICS IN YOUR SPA ROOM 202 B Physician’s Supervision In The Spa Industry by Alex R. Thiersch The Three Evils Of The Spa Industry: Commission, Groupon And The Corporate Practice Of Medicine by Alex R. Thiersch

WELLNESS: MIND AND BODY SEMINAR ROOM 202A Superfoods, Super Beauty by Lake Louise Juice Bars To Boost Up Treatments by Lake Louise

IMAGE SEMINAR ROOM 104 C 2:00 p.m.

3:15 p.m.

It Is All About The Brows by Damone Roberts Add New Services And Income To Your Menu With Basic Airbrushing by Pamela Hackeman

SALON/SPA BUSINESS MANAGEMENT SEMINAR ROOM 203 C 2:00 p.m.

3:15 p.m.

How To Become A Retail Super Star Now! Four Steps To Explode Retail Sales And Profit With Confidence And Integrity by Lauren Gartland More New Ideal Clients Now! How To Build An Unlimited Clientele For Little Or No Money by Lauren Gartland

REGISTER ONLINE LNEONLINE.COM

WORKSHOPS

WORKSHOPS

INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 7

2:00 to 3:15 p.m.

M’LIS COMPANY ROOM 101 A Offer Inner Beauty Nutrition for Hair, Skin and Nails TODAY by M’Lisa Jackson DERMAWARE® BIO-TARGETED SKIN CARE ROOM 101 B Face Perfection: The Medical Facial for Age, Pigments and Acne by Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gül Ç. Zone OSMOSIS PÜR MEDICAL SKIN CARE ROOM 102 A Everything You Didn’t Learn in School by Ben Johnson, M.D. IMAGE SKINCARE ROOM 102 B Ingredient Rock Stars by Jacquelyn L. Hill EPILLYSS WAX/CALIFORNIA SKINCARE SUPPLY ROOM 102 C Don’t Let the Double Dipping Rule be a Pain by Sarah-Eve Landry CHRISTINA USA ROOM 103 A Vinotherapy: An Ancient Staple Takes the Stage in the Anti-aging Skin Care Industry by Elena Davidson RHONDA ALLISON ROOM 103 B Insight Into Acids by Shannon Esau PCA SKIN ROOM 103 C Chemical Peeling for Ethnic and Sensitive Skin by Michelle Goldsmith ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE ROOM 104 A Discover Immediate Anti-aging Results with Organic Active Ingredients by Boldijarre Koronczay CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE ROOM 104 B The Next Generation of Peptide Technology by Michael Q. Pugliese BIO JOUVANCE, INC. ROOM 104 C Microneedle Therapy with Bio Matrix Dermal Filler: Anti-aging Alternative to Restylane® by Sonia Boghosian SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY ROOM 201 A The 7-Minute Brazilian Wax with Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes NATURE PURE LABS ROOM 201 B Instant Non-Surgical Face & Neck Lift with Age Reversing Organic Bio-Actives and Micro-Needling by Victoria Tabak VITAL ASSIST, INC. ROOM 202 C Tomorrow’s Technology Delivering Results Today by Amy Wall LIGHTSTIM ROOM 203 A LED Light Therapy—Results and Rewards by Gloria Timmons CONTROL CORRECTIVE SKINCARE ROOM 203 B TCA Peel Certification Class by Ellen Clark EVE TAYLOR NORTH AMERICA ROOM 203 C The Use of Essential Oils in the Cancer Care Environment by Trish Green

SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 7

3:45 to 5:00 p.m.

HYDROPEPTIDE ROOM 101 A Not All Peptides Are Created Equal: Discover Peptide Synergies That Amplify Results by Jayna DiMartino HYDRAFACIAL MD® EDGE SYSTEMS LLC ROOM 101 B HydraFacial® 101 Certification by HydraFacial® Training Education Specialists LIRA CLINICAL ROOM 102 A Body Peeling From Head to Toe by Tiffany A. McLauchlin IMAGE SKINCARE ROOM 102 B Pigmentation is the New Wrinkle by Jacquelyn L. Hill RELAX AND WAX ROOM 102 C Relax... Let’s Wax! by Deborah Merhar DR. JEFF SKIN CARE/BEAUTY ATTICA, INC. ROOM 103 A Visible Skin Rejuvenation with Himalayan Red Rice Stem Cells by Moises Estrada RHONDA ALLISON ROOM 103 B Let Intelligent Ingredients Work for You by Shannon Esau PCA SKIN ROOM 103 C Hormones and the Skin by Michelle Goldsmith ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE ROOM 104 A Experience the Power of Hungarian Massage and Stimulating Actives by Boldijarre Koronczay MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. ROOM 104 B Microdermabrasion: Past, Present and Future by Lana Yu BIO JOUVANCE, INC. ROOM 104 C All You Need to Know About Radio Frequency: The Latest in Skin Care by Sonia Boghosian

WORKSHOPS

WORKSHOPS

M.A.D SKINCARE ROOM 201 A Mastering Old World Techniques with Eva by Eva Kershbaumer

INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

NATURE PURE LABS ROOM 201 B True Breakthrough in Cellulite Treatment—No Equipment or Shower Needed! by Victoria Tabak PHYSIODERMIE / NELLY DE VUYST / DERME.CA ROOM 202 C 20 Top Marketing Tips and Strategies for Your Success by Manon Pilon DEPILEVE ROOM 203 A Brows to Brazilian with the Latest Waxing Techniques by Deanna Derthick CONTROL CORRECTIVE SKINCARE ROOM 203 B Jessner Peel Certification Class by Ellen Clark MINKY’S ROOM 203 C Minkys: A Whole New Way to Lash Seminar by Amelia Meneses

MONDAY SEPTEMBER 8

2:00 to 3:15 p.m.

M’LIS COMPANY ROOM 101 A Get Skinny, Look Sexy by Candace Arnold MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. ROOM 101 B Microdermabrasion: Past, Present & Future by Lana Yu OSMOSIS PÜR MEDICAL SKINCARE ROOM 102 A The Truth Behind Peels—There is a Better Way! by Ben Johnson, M.D. IMAGE SKINCARE ROOM 102 B Power Peels by Jacquelyn L. Hill EPILFREE PERMANENT HAIR REDUCTION/CALIFORNIA SKINCARE SUPPLY ROOM 102 C EPILFREE Permanent Hair Reduction System Education Seminar by Steve Milanovich CHRISTINA USA ROOM 103 A Vinotherapy: An Ancient Staple Takes the Stage in the Anti-aging Skin Care Industry by Elena Davidson BIO JOUVANCE, INC. ROOM 103 B Microneedling with Natural Skin Peels for Acne, Pigmented and Mature Skin.

Expect Immediate Results! by Sonia Boghosian PCA SKIN ROOM 103 C Rejuvenation of the Aging Face by Michelle Goldsmith ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE ROOM 104 A Erase Hyperpigmentation with Natural Hydroquinone Alternative by Boldijarre Koronczay CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE ROOM 104 B A New Look at Inflammation and Aging by Michael Q. Pugliese SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY ROOM 201 A The 7-Minute Brazilian Wax with Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes NATURE PURE LABS ROOM 201 B True Breakthrough in Cellulite Treatment—No Equipment or Shower Needed! by Victoria Tabak VITAL ASSIST, INC. ROOM 202 C Tomorrow’s Technology Delivering Results Today by Amy Wall DEPILEVE ROOM 203 A Brows to Brazilian with the Latest Waxing Techniques by Deanna Derthick LIGHTSTIM ROOM 203 B LED Light Therapy—Results and Rewards by Gloria Timmons

MONDAY SEPTEMBER 8

3:45 to 5:00 p.m.

ECO-FIN ROOM 101 A Profit Powerhouse: Eco-fin Natural Hand and Foot Treatments by Jenny Farrand DERMATUDE ROOM 102 B Dermatude META Therapy by Crystal McElroy RELAX AND WAX ROOM 102 C Relax... Let’s Wax! by Deborah Merhar PCA SKIN ROOM 103 C Chemical Peeling for Ethnic and Sensitive Skin by Michelle Goldsmith ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE ROOM 104 A Fight Acne and Rosacea Organically and say no to Chemicals by Boldijarre Koronczay NATURE PURE LABS ROOM 201 B Instant Non-Surgical Face & Neck Lift with Age Reversing Organic Bio-Actives and Micro-Needling by Victoria Tabak MAXCARA ROOM 203 A Maxcara Semi-Permanent Lash Treatment by Deanna Derthick

EXHIBITOR LIST A Quality Beauty Supply Company Ace Beauty Group Aesthetic Ambassadors Alex Cosmetic Allegra M. France AnteAge By Cellese Amethyst Biomat Therapeutics American Biotech Labs Appearus Products Corp Associated Skin Care Professionals Audrey Morris Skincare + Cosmetics B & S Beauty Supply B. Kamins Laboratories Bamboo-Fusion® Banzai Living Beauty Beaming White, LLC Beauties City Supplies, Inc. Beauty Attica, Inc. Beauty Beauty Int’l, Inc. Beauty Image Beauty Tsuru DBA KSK Enterprise Bella Baci Bella Schneider Beauty Bellaire Industry, LLC Bio France Lab Bio Jouvance, Inc. Biodroga MD BION Research Skin Care Products Biophotas Biotone Blinc, Inc. Bon Vital’, Inc. BonBliss Beauty, Inc. Brazilian Blue Bronze Biologic Cailyn Cosmetics Cass Luxury Shapewear CBI Laboratories Celluma Chella Brow Bar Christina USA Ciate Circadia By Dr. Pugliese Clarisonic A L’Oreal Company ClearFX Skin Clinical Resolution Lab, Inc. Control Corrective Skincare Cowen Enterprise, Inc. Crave Crown Brush Daisy Skin Institute Damone Roberts Salons Depileve Dermaesthetics Beverly Hills DermaQuest DermaSpa Distributors DermaSwiss Dermatude Dermascope Magazine DermaQuip DermAware Bio-targeted Skin Care Derme.Ca DPC Int’l, Inc. Dr. Grandel Dr. Jeff Skin Care Dr. Schrammek Green Peel EcoGenics Active Botanical Skin Care Éminence Organic Skin Care Enlace Hispano Estética, Spa & Belleza (EHESB) Enspri Skin Care

Epilfree Permanent Hair Reduction - distributed by California Skincare Supply Epillyss Wax - distributed by California Skincare Supply Equipro Essenavita Esthemax Evalash Silk Eyelash Extensions Eve Taylor North America Eye Kandy Cosmetics Fake Bake Galaxy Enterprises Glamglow Gleam By Melanie Mills Gold Cosmetics & Skin Care GrandeHair GrandeLash Gratiae Organics h2t Spa & Aesthetics Hairaway Hale Cosmeceuticals Hanna Isul Skin Therapy, Inc. Health and Beauty Connection Hollywood Face Towels, Wraps & Linens Huini USA Beauty, LLC Humex, Inc. HydraFacial MD - Edge Systems LLC HydroPeptide ilike organic skin care from Szep Elet Image Derm, Inc. Image Skincare Infinity Sun Infra Slim Body Insparation Management Instantly Ageless IPKN Cosmetics USA Jane Scrivner Janssen Southwest JB Cosmetics JB Lashes/Lashfood Jenetiqa Skin Care Jindilli JM Group JMT Group Kawaii Massage Chair KP. Beauty Products Kosmet, Inc. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics Ladybird Line Lash Bomb Le Chat Le Mieux Cosmetics Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Magazine LightStim Lira Clinical Lôngmi Lashes Lucrece Physicians’ Aesthetic Research Lumavera Super Food For Skin M.A. Dermaceuticals M’Lis Company MAD Skincare Magazine Service Outlet (CMS of Holland) Mancine Cosmetics, Inc. Manufacturing Beauty® Martinni Beauty Inc. Maxcara Meditime Mena Cosmetics etre belle Mineralogie Mineral Makeup Minky’s Misencil By HollyBelle Lashes and Academy

VISIT WWW.LNEONLINE.COM FOR ALL DETAILS

Morphe Make Up and Brushes Natural Selection Bath & Body Nature Pure Labs SW, Inc. Nelly De Vuyst (Derme.ca) Neurotris Nouveau Contour Nova Iuvenali™ Systems Oceana USA, Inc. OPM - Organic Permanent Makeup Osmosis Pür Medical Skin Care Otto Trading Outback Organics Beaute Painted Woman By Kameco PCA Skin PFB Vanish, Inc. Photomedex Physiodermie (Derme.ca) Pinnacle Cosmetics Poise Makeup Professional Pour Elle Cosmetic Premier Dead Sea Pure Plant Home Pure Plant SPA RA for Men Rapid Lash Relax and Wax Rena Levi Skin Care Revitalash Rhonda Allison Rubber Ducky SAIAN Natural Clinical Skin Care Salonwear Shelley Hancock Consulting Silcskin Silkn USA LLC Skin Accents, Inc. Skin Act Skin Script Skin Care Skin-Apeel Co. Skincential Sciences SkinPHD Cosmeceutical, Inc. SlimSpa Group, The Body Specialists smileactives Smooth Skin Supply, LLC South Seas Spray Tan Souleves Wellness Salon Spa & Aesthetics Spa and Equipment Spa de Soleil Spa Manufacturer Direct Spa Source, Int’l Spabooker Spaware Software Square Sun Laboratories Susanne Kaufmann Tassi LLC Tei Spa Essentials The Organic Pharmacy + Patyka The Unique Edge Therapmedic LLC Tizo by Fallene TRF USA, Inc. VI Peel Viktoria De’Ann Peptide Cosmeceuticals Vital Assist Inc. Vitality FX Detoxification Station Vyon Xtetic World Yoon International

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Page 28 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

EXTRACTIONS BACK TO BASICS One of the least relaxing steps in skin care treatments is actually one of the most important steps to maintaining healthy, functioning skin.

photos: Shutterstock.com

by Kristina Valiani

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Extractions involve the manual manipulation of the skin, removing comedones, oil and other debris from the follicles. Almost everyone can benefit from extractions performed by a licensed esthetician who follows a procedure that is in line with their state’s safety and sanitation regulations to prevent bacteria and scarring.

A client who does not have pustules or acne may assume that they do not need to get extractions, but that cannot be further from the truth.

Developing good extraction skills requires practice and experience for many estheticians. Once an esthetician has mastered extractions, they will be in much higher demand, since it is a skill that is rare to find in spa settings. Deborah Pannier, an esthetician at Salon Macias in San Francisco, CA, believes that providing

LNEONLINE.com • Page 29

skin | extractions: back to basics painless, thorough extractions is key to retaining clients. Pannier argues that almost everyone has clogged pores, even if their skin type is not oily or prone to acne. She constantly sees new clients with concerns of open and closed comedones, and realizes during their skin consultation that they do not exfoliate or are using the wrong cleanser or sunscreen, which results in a dull complexion.

Any treatment can incorporate extractions.

As the professional, you may ask, “How long should I spend on extractions during the treatment facial?” The answer is determined by several factors.

Professional consultation During the consultation, the esthetician examines the pores with a magnifying lamp while asking questions. For example: “How often are you exfoliating?” “What are your main skin care concerns?” “What are your long term goals for the health and appearance of your skin?”

If your client’s skin is congested with open and closed comedones due to their skin type or lack of consistent exfoliation, you may need to spend more time on extractions or suggest biweekly treatments for 6 weeks to give the skin time to heal and improve in between treatments.

Clients’ main concerns Women are always seeking ways to look more vibrant and get the flawless skin they see on the red carpet and in the beauty magazines.

If your client is targeting “flawless skin,” you have to educate them on the importance of following their home care plans. Consistency and following a strict schedule for exfoliating treatments that involve extractions are proven methods to prevent future clogged pores.

Amount of time allocated for the treatment Your spa’s treatment menu may offer facials that last between 50 and 60 min, which may not be enough time to perform extractions and complete the other beneficial steps of your protocol. Solve this dilemma by offering a 20 min add-on for extractions to any facial service.

Preparing the skin for extractions Two important preparatory procedures make extractions easier on both the esthetician and the client receiving the treatment. The first is exfoliation of any surface cell buildup that can cause dehydration. The second is to make sure that the follicle impactions are soft and the debris has loosened. Depending on the type of spa, treatment selected, and client’s skin-type and condition, you will have several exfoliation methods to choose from. Pannier always ensures that the skin is as soft as possible. She typically chooses an enzyme or a gentle alpha hydroxy acid like lactic acid. She has also found that performing a facial massage with steam prior to extraction is extremely effective, getting the tissue ready to release the foreign debris from the follicle.

Page 30 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

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skin | extractions: back to basics Extraction techniques Several different techniques are used in extraction. Comedone extractors are special instruments to help remove debris in the follicle. They tend to be stainless steel and are available in different shapes. Another more advanced method that takes more experience is the use of cotton tipped fingers. Care must be taken not to bruise the skin or inflame broken capillaries. Erin Ferrill, the national training and development manager at HydroPeptide®, says that she prefers to use her fingers wrapped with cotton to have more control over the pressure that is surrounding the follicle. Ferrill applies even pressure on each side of the comedone, first approaching it with a downward motion and then applying pressure upward in order

been extracted from the skin, use an antimicrobial such as benzoyl peroxide or sulfur, which will kill any remaining bacteria in the follicle and the surrounding areas on the skin. Applying a serum that is calming will help reduce any redness and swelling. The serum should include soothing ingredients such as green tea, matricaria and aloe vera.

Pannier always finishes extractions with purple high frequency electrodes. She says that purple kills bacteria and eases inflammation. High frequency is an electrical treatment that improves skin circulation and kills bacteria growth. High frequency should be applied to the skin in circular motions over a soothing serum.

Applying a mask containing sulfur with a clay base to absorb oil post extractions is also very beneficial to the healing process. A gentle clay that absorbs excess oil without stripping the acid mantle is bentonite clay, which is found in several professional skin care brands.

Home care prevention of clogged pores

to avoid pushing debris further into the follicle.

She is more likely to use a metal extraction tool when working around the nose, where the skin is tighter. Ferrill has also found that moving the tool sideways while applying gentle pressure to one follicle is successful, ensuring that the movement is not inadvertently pushing debris deeper into surrounding pores.

Depending on your state’s regulatory laws that govern estheticians, you may use a tool called a lancet. Lancets are used to dilate follicles before extraction. A disposable, sterile lancet is inserted into the opening of the follicle prior to extractions. This tool loosens the debris and creates an easier pathway for it to exit. The use of a lancet is particularly effective for the extraction of whiteheads (closed comedones).

Post-extraction care Immediately after extractions and before continuing to the next steps in the facial, thoroughly remove any surface debris with fresh cotton or a sponge. If multiple pustules have

Recommend that your clients schedule extractions on a monthly or seasonal basis. Also point out that if they do not consistently use skin care products for their skin types and conditions on a daily basis, they will always be restarting the process, and most likely will not see as big of an improvement as they would from cleansing twice daily. The cleansing I am referring to here is cleansing with the purpose of removing makeup, pollution and oil. Advise your clients to exfoliate with an alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acid to prevent a buildup of dead skin cells. If your client’s skin is more prone to pustules, suggest the use of salicylic acid, since this can enter the follicle and clean from the inside out. And of course, they should always use a moisturizer tailored to their skin type. n

Kristina Valiani is a licensed esthetician, and the sales and education manager for the West Coast for B. Kamins Skincare. Valiani conducts professional trainings and teaches continuing education classes for estheticians around the nation.

Page 32 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

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LNEONLINE.com • Page 35

“HANDS-ON”

DETOX

How to Stimulate Lymph Flow for Healthy Skin

by Rhonda Allison

Page 36 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

The lymphatic system is imperative to the body’s detoxification process. It also plays an important role in the body’s ability to nourish and regenerate tissue, filter metabolic waste and keep the immune system healthy.

photos: Shutterstock.com

When the system becomes sluggish, however, impurities may become trapped in cells. The implication of a slow lymphatic system is a weakened immune system, which deeply impacts the skin.

Fortunately the lymphatic flow can be stimulated through movement, and skin care professionals use this technique in the treatment room to benefit clients who suffer with rosacea, acne, puffiness and overall sluggish skin, as well as post surgery inflammation and bruising.

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 37

skin | hands-on detox

A look at the lymphatic system Most associate the lymphatic system with the lymph nodes in the throat, armpit or groin areas, which can become swollen and even sensitive to the touch when the body is fighting an illness. The lymph system is the entire network of organs, lymph nodes, lymph ducts and lymph vessels that make and move lymph from tissues to the bloodstream. The fluid, which comprises white blood cells that attack bacteria in the blood, is a major part of the body’s immune system. It is often recognized as the clear, yellowish fluid that accompanies blood when a pustule is extracted.

Lymph nodes are soft, small structures that cluster in various parts of the body. They filter lymph fluid, produce immune cells to aid the body fight infection, and help rid the body of foreign antibodies like bacteria and other dangerous cells.

When bacteria or infection is identified in lymph fluid, the lymph nodes go to work pro-

ducing more white blood cells to eliminate the bacteria, which causes the swelling. The nodes are also where the body clears or purifies itself of the bacteria or any debris the lymph collected from the cellular tissue.

Since lymph is not a part of the vascular system, it does not have the benefit of a pump like the heart to keep it circulating. It must be stimulated through movement to keep it from slowing, or to jump start it when it is sluggish.

For clients who are challenged with sluggish skin, rosacea, acne or inflammation, it is important to keep the lymph in motion with: • Exercise • Deep breathing (in the diaphragm) • Laughter • Drinking adequate water • Regular massage • Manual lymphatic drainage—a

technique that may be performed during a facial treatment

In the treatment room In the treatment room, esthetic professionals can offer support that will move lymph through manual lymphatic drainage or stimulate lymph flow, as well as other treatments that increase overall circulation like microdermabrasion, oxygen applications and massage.

Stimulating lymphatic flow is a precise skin movement technique that occurs at the surface level of the skin. The technique does not involve moving any of the tissue underneath the skin. It stimulates the lymph to move more efficiently, because when it is clogged, it becomes more difficult for the body to purify and cleanse itself, the effects of which can become visible in the skin.

The manual lymphatic flow technique can be used in tandem with acne, rosacea and postsurgical treatments to help heal, reduce inflammation and restore the skin back to its optimal health.

For clients challenged by acne, the manual lymphatic flow technique may be used with an acne treatment to assist in the healing process by reducing inflammation and swelling. The relief of pressure on acne lesions is an important step in recovery. Lymphatic flow also supports the clearing of toxins.

Page 38 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

Lymph flow for acne and rosacea

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LNEONLINE.com • Page 39

skin | hands-on detox provide calming, soothing support. Once the facial is completed, the process for stimulating lymph flow may be done. Some experts employ the technique following the treatment, and some offer this midway through in place of massage.

The goal for rosacea clients is to provide antibacterial support with the facial treatment, and help reduce the underlying inflammation using the manual lymphatic flow technique. The treatment begins with a probiotic milk-based cleanser that provides antibacterial support, followed by a salicylic peeling cream blended with a milk-based mask. After the mask and peel cream have been thoroughly removed, apply a nourishing cocktail of essential fatty acids, sea buckthorn oil and vitamins. This might be followed by a second mask application using the same milk-based formula blended with a nourishing serum of essential fatty acids and vitamins.

While the mask is on the skin, gently roll chilled ice globes over the face to help reduce inflammation and redness. Finish with growth factor serum, and a mineral block like zinc.

For both acne and rosacea treatments, the manual lymphatic flow technique is left for the end of the treatment so as not to disrupt the flow. Typically this yields complete results because the skin is able to continue to drain after the client leaves. When the manual lymphatic flow technique is performed during the treatment, you may disrupt the flow you just created by applying additional pressure to the skin as you finish the facial—yet as mentioned, some offer this midway through the treatment in place of the massage.

photos: Shutterstock.com

For the facial treatment, a glycolic-based cleanser followed by a salicylic scrub will deeply cleanse the skin and provide antibacterial support. This will create a clean surface to work from.

Following the cleanse, a digestive enzyme may be applied to dissolve dead cells, clean up impurities and stimulate cellular turnover. After the enzyme has been removed, a green tea-based mask will provide a potent dose of antioxidants and healing support. To finish, a combination of nourishing and corrective ingredients like grape seed oil, benzoyl peroxide, allantoin, epidermal growth factor and natural zinc will protect and

Page 40 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

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skin

Spas offering manual lymphatic flow treatments Serenity Skincare in San Diego, CA Rosacea Facial with Stimulate Lymph Flow (75 min, starts at $115; $50 for post surgery as a stand-alone treatment) serenityskincaresd.com Hollyday Aesthetics in Kansas City, MO Manual Lymphatic Drainage, offered with several treatments (60-75 min, starts at $115) hollydayspa.com When clients have puffiness around the eyes, or even come to you post cosmetic surgery, manual lymphatic flow supports movement of the fluid creating the edema (or puffiness), and aids in the reduction of inflammation and bruising. For post surgery, you might offer the stimulating lymph drainage as a stand alone treatment.

When performing a manual lymphatic flow treatment, the clearing will always start at the base, working to clear the area so the lymph has a place to go. Using the thumbs, begin with parallel strokes from the middle of the chest to the collarbone. Progress up to the middle of the neck to the top, moving the lymph down.

Then move along the bottom of the face to the cheek area, to the bottom of jaw line. You will finish with the forehead, continuing to move the lymph down as you work. This technique does not require a lot of pressure, rather it is a feathery touch with the movement coming from the body to create an even pressure. The movement should be done in a circular motion in the direction you want the lymph to flow.

This is a very precise movement and technique that takes time to learn. If you are new to the technique, take a course through a school that specializes in lymph flow. It can take hours to learn proper technique, but once you have mastered it, you can offer it as an add-on service in the treatment room to further the results of your other skin care services. n

Desire Perfection Medspa and Laser Center in Ronkonkoma, NY Teen/Adult Acne Facial with Manual Lymphatic Drainage (75 min, $135/$165) desireperfection.com BB Facial Spa in Mount Pleasant, SC Rosacea Facial with Stimulate Lymph Flow Acne Facial with Stimulate Lymph Flow (75 min, $90) bbfacialspa.com *Stimulate Lymph Flow is offered for acne, rosacea, edema and post-surgery.

Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RA for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of esthetic experience. For more information, visit RhondaAllison.com and RAmethod.com.

Page 42 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

Lymph and inflammation

REJUVENATING WASH Paula’s Choice Resist Daily Pore-Refining Treatment 2% BHA is a new product that knocks out blackheads and breakouts as it exfoliates to reveal a younger looking complexion, says the company.

Salicylic acid and skin firming antioxidants smooth skin texture, reduce enlarged pores, banish bumps, calm redness and fight signs of aging. paulaschoice.com 800.831.4088

PURIFYING CLEANSE HydroPeptide’s latest Clarifying Toner Balance Control Pads are anti-aging skin clarifying pads that feature four peptides, azelaic, lactic acid and Canadian willowherb. These pads reveal healthy skin with renewing alpha hydroxy acids and pore-cleansing peptides that will help create a flawless complexion, says the company. The gluten-free toner addresses the concerns of clients with congested skin, visible pores, dullness, fine lines and wrinkles. hydropeptide.com 800.932.9873

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Le Mieux’s latest hyaluronic acid based Essence Moisturizer is a multipeptide technology that hydrates while promoting cell rejuvenation for dry, normal and combination skin, says the company. The crème boosts collagen synthesis levels, improves firmness and elasticity in skin and reduces fine lines and wrinkles. The light cream features soluble marine collagen, green tea extract, beta glucan, ceramides I and III, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and acetyl hexapeptide-8. lemieuxcosmetics.com 888.327.8188

BARBER ESSENTIAL GlyMed Plus’ Post Shave Anti-Aging Recovery Balm is an advanced peptide treatment that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, says the company.

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SKINNEWS

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LNEONLINE.com • Page 43

TURNING BACK THE CLOCK

SKINNEWS

RESTFUL LOOK

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

Bio-Therapeutic’s Platinum Restore Eye Cream is excellent for smoothing and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes. It adds moisture and keeps the eye area firm and bright, says the company. The crème features retinyl palmitate and vitamins A, C and E, as well as green tea extract to offer potent antioxidant protection. bio-therapeutic.com 800.971.6438

Jan Marini Skin Research’s latest Retinol Plus Mask amplifies the results of any home care routine by addressing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage, hyperpigmentation and acne, the company says. With a high concentration of retinol, antiaging peptides and antioxidants— as well as aloe and bisabolol— the mask penetrates the skin for dramatic improvement. janmarini.com 408.620.3600

TRIMMING PREP

FOOD FOR THE SKIN Yon-Ka Paris For Men’s NutriCrème is a cocktail of antioxidants and multi-vitamins that softens, hydrates the skin and makes it supple, all while protecting it from environmental damage and replenishing it with energy, says the company. The cream features grapefruit extract, grape seed oil, vitamins A, B5, C and E and citrus extract. yonkausa.com 800.533.6276

Hommage’s Prime is a luxurious pre-shave oil that softens the beard and readies the skin before shaving, says the company. This patented formula blends rare white truffle extract and silicone agents to tame even coarser hair, achieving a flawless, perfectly close shave. devansassociates.com 902.221.8283

Page 44 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

All the latest on how to market and cater to male clients.

ALL MEN’S GUIDE GUIDE

Thinking of creating, revamping or renewing your lash bar? Don't hold back!

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa's Lash Out Guide walks you through all the steps…

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 45

TARGETING The

MaleClient

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

attracting men to your practice

It is no secret that men and women differ from one another, but how does that apply to the skin health industry and successfully marketing to the male client?

Over the past 2 decades, there has been a rising interest in skin health within the male population.

by David S. Goldstein

This has been proven by the creation of many products specifically formulated and marketed to men, the opening of “men only” salons and an increase in plastic surgery procedures among men. However, as compared to most women who begin to experiment with makeup and skin care products as early as 6 years old, their male counterparts typically do not display an interest in their own skin until they begin to see changes that warrant attention.

Men generally seek the advice of a professional when they start to see wrinkles, sagging skin, hyperpigmentation and puffiness or a sunken appearance around the eyes as they age. Colloquially referred to as “male menopause,” the condition known medically as androgen deficiency in the aging male (ADAM), partial androgen deficiency in the aging male (PADAM) or aging-associated androgen deficiency (AAAD) involves a decline in testosterone production, which leads to a variety of physiological changes, including textural changes, decreased hydration, and lowered collagen and elastin production within the skin.

Page 46 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 47

Historically, men have avoided skin care and other salon services other than a good shave at the barber shop, as these were considered effeminate and not something to be seen doing in public or discussed with their friends. Up until recently, seeing a man walk out of a store or salon with a seven-step skin care regimen in his hands, along with freshly manicured hands and feet, was not exactly the norm. Now, with the popularity of the “metrosexual” image, an increase in the divorce rate, the competitive nature of the job market and aging baby boomers, it is becoming more and more common to see men taking the time to learn about the secrets women have known for years.

In addition, where plastic surgery procedures were mostly dominated by the female population, male plastic surgery and the use of injectables like Botox® and fillers are on the rise, according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. Men, typically between the ages of 40 to 58, are having these procedures done in order to compete in a job market dominated by younger men, as well as newly divorced men who want to project a younger, more vital image.

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

Attracting the male client While there are spas and salons targeted specifically to men, making it more of a comfortable environment for them to receive services, not all of our businesses are set up that way. In either circumstance, how are we going to attract men, and, most importantly, retain them as clients?

Chances are good that every one of your clients knows of at least one man who is curious about skin health but may feel uncomfortable approaching a medi-spa or salon by themselves. Consider holding a “bring a male friend” event in your practice at regular intervals. Offer special discounts designed to entice male clients into purchasing products and services on a day designated for them. Be sure to take advantage of social media outlets, such as Twitter and Facebook, to announce any special events or discounts for men (62% of men use Facebook and 16% use Twitter, not to mention the other social media platforms available1).

These resources are free, and they are great ways to reach multiple people and demographics at once.

Be sure you have a substantial inventory of products that are packaged and formulated with men in mind. Once you get your male clients interested in purchasing, you do not want them to be turned off by products decorated with butterflies or flowers, as they may be hesitant to have these types of packages sitting in plain sight in their bathrooms or gym lockers.

Many practices take advantage of the spring and summer seasons, as these are times when men may be interested in waxing services, typically on the back and chest. When these clients come in, suggest other types of treatments and products that may be useful to them since they are already there and may be open to suggestions. You can offer other types of professional services, such as a back treatment or chemical peel, and package them into one fee along with the waxing service to be performed on separate visits.

Additionally, birthdays can be the perfect way to introduce professional services at a discount or at no charge.

Pseudofolliculitis barbae, or ingrown hairs, is a common concern with men, and many have no idea what can be done to alleviate this condition.

Many companies offer products and regimens that are very effective and produce excellent results, both with professional treatments and daily care products. Take the time to research this condition and ask your product representatives about options that you can have on-hand specifically for this condition. Once your male clients see how well the condition responds to your suggested regimen and treatment plans, you will be sure to have a satisfied client who returns consistently.

Education Once we have attracted the male client and he is sitting in our consult or treatment room, how are we going to educate him about products and ingredients without overwhelming him?

Most men do not know the mechanism of action of microdermabrasion or the many benefits a chemical peel provides the skin. Some may be skeptical when it comes to applying serums and moisturizers, since they may not be sure what to expect. You may encounter men who have never used anything on their skin other than shaving cream and aftershave,

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since there are differences between men and women in hormone metabolism, sweat and sebum production, hair growth and fat accumulation, as well as differences in pH levels.2 In addition, men’s skin has been shown to be more acidic, at approximately 4.5 pH versus women’s skin, at approximately 5.6 pH.3 Make sure to take such information into account in order to provide your male patients with the best treatment recommendations for their individual needs.

Retaining the male client

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References 1. Social Networking Site Users. Pew Research Center’s Internet Project (2012). Retrieved from http://www.pewinternet.org/2013/02/14/ social-networking-site-users/ 2. Giacomoni, P.U., Mammone, T. Teri, M. (2009).

Gender-linked differences in human skin. Journal of Dermatological Science 55.3, 144-149.

3. Jacobi, U., Gautier, J., Sterry, W., Lademann, J. (2005). Gender-Related Differences in the Physiology of the Stratum Corneum. Dermatology 211, 312–317.

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

and as a result may be hesitant to step outside their comfort zone.

Try suggesting a facial with products that can also be purchased and used at home. Keep the regimen simple and easy to follow. Depending on the person, a regimen of three to four products is a good start: a cleanser, a treatment serum, an SPF product and a nighttime hydrator.

This provides the client with a well-rounded regimen that will deliver visible results.

For those interested in learning more about your professional treatment offerings, consider performing a treatment on their hands so they can see what the process generally entails. Once they are comfortable and have begun using their daily care products at home, they will most likely come back and ask what else they can do to achieve even greater results.

Male clientele may be hesitant about chemical peel procedures, but taking the time to educate them will help allay the fears they may have about the procedure burning, stinging or causing irritation. Start slowly with an enzyme mask or an oxygenating treatment that may produce just a slight amount of activity so they can experience how it feels. They will quickly see that there is nothing to fear.

Not only is it important to become versed on how to approach the male patient, it is also important to become educated on the differences between men’s skin and women’s skin in order to treat it properly. Men’s skin may respond differently to treatments and products

It is clear that men are becoming more interested in skin health. Take advantage of this growing market and learn how men feel when it comes to their own skin care concerns. By continuing your education and staying current on the newest information on products and treatments that are designed to serve male clientele, you will not only grow your business, you will become more diverse and skilled in your ability to treat everyone who walks into your practice. n

David S. Goldstein is the senior vice president of global sales and field marketing at PCA SKIN®. He previously served as executive vice president of global sales and field marketing at Obagi Medical Products, Inc. Prior to his career in sales, Goldstein served for four years in the United States Marine Corps, earning numerous meritorious achievement and service awards. He received an M.B.A. from National University of San Diego.

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MAN UP TURN YOUR SALON OR SPA INTO A MORE MAN-FRIENDLY SPOT

by Anna G. Wilhem

photos: Bodé Spa and Shutterstock.com

A RISING TREND The idea of a salon or spa that only caters to men might seem foreign to some, yet men do not only constitute a large chunk of total spa visits in the United States, they also like to take care of themselves by pur-

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

chasing skin care and other cosmetics.

According to a 2013 study released by the International Spa Association (ISPA), men represent nearly half of the total spa market (47%). In addition, a Mintel study estimates that by 2016, the men’s skin care market could fetch up to $3.2 billion in sales.

While a men only locale might not be up your alley, tending to men with a bit more care (i.e. by truly making them feel welcomed) certainly is in your best interest.

“Men want a place of their own,” says Gilman. “It is often uncomfortable for guys to be mixed into a salon or spa atmosphere with women. Having their own place brings them to a new relaxation level.”

Daniel Francoeur, owner of Bodé Spa for Men in Ottawa, Canada, could not agree more. “Imagine women with their friends having manis-pedis and chatting. Then you bring a man in a next chair,” says Francoeur. “They are going to shut down and start whispering, he is going to feel out of place.

You are hurting both clients.”

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ALL MEN’S GUIDE

Before Michael Gilman was able to say his vows, there was something else that his bride-to-be wanted him to do—get his nails done. So off he went to the salon for a manicure. And while he enjoyed the pampering that came along with having his nails clipped, shaped and polished, he felt awkward sitting among dozens of women.

“I thought to myself that if there were a place just for men, I would go there and other like-minded guys would as well,” says Gilman. In lieu of looking for that place, Gilman made it happen. In 2002 he opened the Grooming Lounge in Washington DC—a second location in McLean, VA soon followed suit—a salon just for guys to get the services they need in a locale they can relate to and feel at ease.

“We offer wine and cheese on Tuesday and Thursday evenings,” says Rodgers.

“We also have beer and some rum and brandy.” At the Grooming Lounge, clients get to pick from “tons of men’s magazines and just about every drink option you can imagine,” says Gilman.

If nothing else, a big candy dish seems to do the trick at Bodé, as Francoeur finds that his clients like to indulge in sweets.

TALK THEIR TALK

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

BRING IN THE MACHO The trick to making a salon or spa more male friendly starts by appealing to their senses: sight, smell, auditory and taste.

Treat their eyes. Men-only waiting rooms and treatment rooms need to look like places they would feel comfortable hanging out in. “Tone down some of the floral stuff,” says Gilman.

“Pick more neutral colors, including for the sheets that cover esthetic tables,” says Francoeur. Dark woods, metals, marbles and leather are materials that fit in with a more manly and professional look.

Give them space. “Our waiting room is very large and wide because men do not like to be sitting next to each other,” says Francoeur. “And they like their privacy in the treatment rooms as well.” Francoeur suggests having only two chairs available for facials to allow the wife or girlfriend to sit by and perhaps enjoy a treatment as well.

Size matters—when it comes to equipment and other necessities.

“Make sure the equipment is more man-sized, as it is not really easy fitting a 250 lb guy into a regular pedicure station,” says Gilman. Francoeur

concurs. He suggests looking for extra wide and long tables, as well as size 15 sandals and bathrobes “for that 6 ft 4 in and 300 lb client.”

Appeal to their smell. Incense, musk, citrus and eucalyptus are scents that men are more prone to embrace, while florals and fruits can be more of a turnoff. The same rule somewhat goes for treatments themselves. “For example, rose water is fantastic for skin,” says Francoeur. “But if the concentrate is too high in smell, the client is going to hate it.” Ginny Rodgers, manager of Studio One Eleven Day Spa and Salon in Wilmington, DE, says she switches scents depending on the season, and favors balsam oils or peppermint in the winter and perhaps honeysuckle in the summer.

Just like for everything else, music, advises Gilman, needs to be more neutral. Francoeur says that in his salon, clients and therapists can alter the music in each room based on their personal preferences, and clients are even encouraged to bring in their favorite sounds. In the waiting room, offer some magazines geared to male topics, from health to sports, travel and foods, as well as newspapers. And if you like to treat your clients, go the extra mile.

Although the majority of treatments offered to men are essentially the same as those offered to women, the choice of words to present these treatments matter a great deal. Perhaps one needs to mix a bit of their psychological skills with some marketing savvy, yet one thing seems certain—at least according to Francoeur and Gilman—some words completely turn men off. At Bodé and the Grooming Lounge, men do not get a pedicure, they get a Foot Fix or a Foot Treatment. Aside from the choice of names for services, the words used to describe them and the way therapists address clients must be scrutinized as well. “Avoid more fluffy spa language,” says Gilman. “We steer clear of technical words only aimed to make us look smart, and that only makes the guest feel confused.”

PICK SOUGHT-AFTER MEN’S SERVICES According to the 2013 findings released by ISPA, men’s most sought after treatments were massages (83%), pedis and manis (37% and 33%) and facials (31%). “At this stage, men are pretty much rookies in the spa game,” says Gilman. “So we start with services that help them do the basics like clean up skin problems, take care of their nails, relax sore muscles, etc.” Francoeur finds that although massages were big at some point in his spa, today esthetics is what men want when they seek his services. “Skin care is huge, foot care is huge, hand care not so much,” he says.

Francoeur suggests that when a spa or salon is ready to make the plunge to-

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The trick to making a salon or spa more male friendly starts by appealing to their senses: sight, smell, auditory and taste.

ward more men-friendly offerings, get the staff on board to make decisions as to what will be made available—and be very specific. “Are you willing to do waxing?” asks Francoeur, before going into graphic descriptions of some waxing treatments for men.

When it comes to training, both Francoeur and Gilman are adamant.

“Learn the technical aspect of men’s care,” says Gilman, to which Francoeur adds, “It is all about education.” Indeed as Francoeur brings up, there are simple rules that apply to everyone, but the reaction that men get differs from that of women. He makes his point with waxing services. “We wax huge areas in the back and chest and we do not do that for women,” says Francoeur. “They are not told how to care after a wax, then they go on a beach vacation and they start to break out with acne and they never want to get waxed again.”

The same fact applies to men or women—treatments well done can turn anyone into a loyal client. Francoeur shares the story of a client, who on his 65th birthday came for his very first spa experience. “He came for a Face Lift, ear wax, nose wax and brow wax. He also got a Foot Fix,” says Francoeur.

“Now he comes back religiously every August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

GET THE GUYS IN AND COMING BACK Getting guys to come in for some services might seem like the tricky part.

While Francoeur and Rodgers both gained their following from their previous venture—Rodgers used to work at a fancy barber shop and Francoeur owned a spa where women would bring in their partners—attracting male clients is a bit of a mix of what works for women as well, yet focusing on the web is definitely a must. “It is not like they go to their buddies and say, ‘where do you go?’” argues Francoeur.

“Men do not talk too much about that kind of stuff; men look for stuff online.

We know the web is very important.”

Rodgers concurs. “I set up an internet site […] which attracts most of my clients who come in today,” she says.

Social media, Twitter, Facebook and blogging rank pretty high too, adds Francoeur. Getting involved with the community has worked well for him also. Giving away treatments as prizes

WORDS OF WISDOM If increasing your male clientele is one of your goals, here is some advice from those who know best how to cater to men. “Make it authentic and do not just carve out one room and use the same personnel, but a different room.

It needs to really be a different destination,” says Gilman. Rodgers agrees and adds, “make sure it is all to themselves.

If you ask most men, they will tell you they do not like certain things when coming into a unisex salon.” Rodgers cautions that unlike women, who enjoy the chatter with their therapists, men do not. “These gentlemen are usually corporate and white collar workers and they have a lot of mental stress.

They do not need to hear all about your problems. Concentrate on the client.”

Finally, Francoeur suggests dedicating a separate menu and questionnaire for men. “Print off a completely separate menu, do not put them together,” says Francoeur. “Avoid using the same questionnaire than for women. Men do not like to be asked when was their last cycle of if they have menopause. They want to see that you show them that you care.” n LNEONLINE.com • Page 53

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

photos: Bodé Spa

TRAIN YOUR STAFF

month and a half. He said, ‘I had a little bit of arthritis and I could not walk a lot.’

After the Foot fix, we trimmed his nails properly, took care of ingrown nails, he started to enjoy walking more. He has lost weight because he can move now and be active.”

to local events has helped spread the word about Bodé. “Usually people want to know about the experience, how [the services] went,” says Francoeur.

Then appealing to your current female clients is yet another way to go. “Most of your clients have brothers, fathers, boyfriends, you can show them, ‘look I have a whole menu for men,’” he says.

CARTE

ESSENTIALS MEN’S TREATMENTS IN YOUR MENU

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

by Alex Koo Murray

IT IS NO LONGER JUST ABOUT A HAIRCUT AND SHAVE, when it comes to men’s treatments it is all fair game—manicures, pedicures, massages, facials, waxing, you name it, if the girls do it, you can bet some guy will want to do it too. Today, taking care of themselves is not just okay for men, it has become the new norm.

And it is not just about a quick spruce up or a massage after a sports injury—guys really want to look better, feel better and be spoiled.

So the question is, how much of that segment of the population do you want to cater to, and does your menu reflect that?

The numbers do not lie, men are increasingly seeking out treatments at spas and salons.

In fact, they represent nearly half (47%) of the total spa market as per a 2013 study released by the International Spa Association (ISPA).

How your menu “reads” to men—the treatments themselves and the words used—matters greatly as to whether they will be in or out.

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photos: Shutterstock.com

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

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Menu must-haves Although men are progressively getting to know what their skin needs, when it comes to spa visits, according to the ISPA findings, one treatment trumps all: massage.

The majority of men who seek services (83%) will go for the ultimate form of relaxation, where knots and pains are melted away, and sore muscles are pacified under the therapist’s touch. At the Golden Door in San Marcos, CA, men go for their Deep Tissue, Swedish and Thai massages the most, says Michelle Schlekewey, manager of spa services.

Next come pedicures and manicures (at 37% and 33%). Daniel Francoeur, owner of Bodé Spa for Men in Ottawa, Canada, explains why seemingly simple treatments can be such a big hit for guys. “Usually women are taught by their mothers, friends, sisters how to take care of their feet and hands,” he says. “Men are just told to deal with it, they are told to clip their toenails but they are not even told how to do it and how to deal with ingrown nails.” This is a quick fix at a salon or spa that will surely get them coming back.

Finally, facials are gaining terrain (31%), because as Francoeur puts it, “men now know what they can do for their skin.” To which Amber Loose, spa director of the Peninsula Spa in Beverly Hills, CA, adds, “once men receive a facial, nine times out of 10 they are back for more.”

From waxing to eyelash perming, what matters is what you are willing to offer and work on to provide these treatments in a way that caters to men’s specific needs.

Unless your salon or spa favors one gender, your menu generally falls within four categories.

It is either unisex, where treatments should be—yet not always are—gender neutral; it offers men’s treatments labeled as such among the different services; it provides a men’s section where all treatments address men’s needs; or it is completely separate.

For salons and spas with a large male clientele, a separate men’s menu or a special all boys section within the main menu makes sense.

For Francoeur, men should have their very own menu because it shows them that you really care, he says.

Michael Gilman, owner of the Grooming Lounge—for men only—with locations in Washington DC and McLean, VA, agrees. Yet he argues that beyond simply being considerate, it also has to do with the wording of the menu itself. Loose makes a similar point. “Some spa descriptions can get too wordy, coming across as a complicated treatment which appeals only to those that ‘spa’ often,” she says.

At the Peninsula Spa, the main menu has a section just for men. “[A]n entire page dedicated to men,” Loose says, adding that gents make up 30% of their guests.

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photos: Shutterstock.com

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

Where in the menu?

Bundle up Finally, do not just stick to single treatments, as a bit of creativity can go a long way. If men like the wording of their treatments kept simple, clear and to the point, they will go for original packages that really “get” them.

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Loose says the Peninsula’s special Father’s Day promotion Double Detail for Dad, which included a car wash while dad received a body scrub and massage, received great response (90 min, $245).

The Spa at Coworth Park in London, England, offers a similar package dubbed Man and Motor Spa Day, which includes a Deep Tissue Massage or a Refinery Men’s Facial, access to the gym and swimming pool, a two course light lunch and an exterior/interior car wash, polish and vacuum (about $269). The Guerlain Spa in the Towers of the Waldorf Astoria in New York, NY, features the complimentary Final Touch service that includes suit steaming and shoe shining with every treatment. The Spa at the JW Marriott Grand Rapids in Michigan offers a series of beer inspired treats such as the Brew Polish & Massage, a beer inspired body scrub followed by an aromatherapy massage and a gift card to enjoy a beer of choice (80 min, $169).

The men are waiting. So go ahead and take a look at that menu of yours! n

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

At The Spa at the Omni Grove Park Inn in Asheville, NC, treatments cater to both genders, and men specific services are labeled as such, but there is no male only section within the menu. “The majority of gentlemen who visit The Spa are visiting us with another guest, and their spa reservations are often booked by one person, most often a female,” says Spa Director Jaime Huffman. “In addition, many guests of The Spa are couples who book treatments together.

For these reasons, we have found it most convenient for spa-goers to find all spa services combined into one spa menu.”

As for the Golden Door, it opted for a unisex menu with a simple vocabulary that “appeal to either gender,” says Schlekewey.

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HOW TO SELL PRODUCTS TO MEN

by Anna G. Wilhem Long gone are the days when men’s beauty routine consisted of nothing more than a bar of soap and a stick of deodorant. While for some, the habit is harder to break, many now have come to associate the way their skin looks with professionalism rather than vanity. So cosmetics of all kinds, from day to nighttime moisturizers, eye serums to wrinkle creams, are making their apparition on the manliest of men’s bathroom countertops—and that is great news for salon and spa owners.

Yet how the products made their way to that sink may seem as mysterious for some as how past generations of men went on without any interest or care for their skin. As it turns out, although some still rely on their female com-

panions—make that mother for others—many men now purchase their own skin care. While taking care of one’s skin and appearance was attributed to metrosexuals not so long ago, today the understanding is that looking good not only equates being presentable but also shows signs of ambition and competitiveness in the workplace.

According to the NPD Group Inc., men’s skin care sales went up by 6%, generating $45.5 million in the first half of 2012 when compared to the same period in 2011.

The market research company also found that seven out of 10 men buy their own skin products. Here is how to get them to make that buy.

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photos: Shutterstock.com

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

CLOSING THE DEAL

Men do not purchase skin care products the way women do—they like clarity, simplicity and results. While many women enjoy perusing the retail area and discovering new products, men, for the most part, do not. Be selective with the products you offer; less is more, which might be the key here when it comes to retail.

Offer “manly-looking” products. “You have to find products that they are not ashamed to put in their bathroom counters,” says Daniel Francoeur, owner of Bodé Spa for Men in Ottawa, Canada. Francoeur adds that the products must not only look manly but be practical as well, pointing out that oftentimes cosmetics come in small jars that big-handed men might have trouble using. In addition, products must be something that men can relate to. For example, Francoeur says that he looks for products which packaging might be reminiscent of occupations men enjoy or are used to—think mechanics, sports…

Tell them what you are using, why you are using it and how it works. Men need to be “sold” on an item. In other words, they want to understand it and truly “feel” it. Francoeur suggests telling clients to bring the products they use to have their therapist explain why it might or might not be good for them and what could August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

be better. He also says that in his salons, they are “sample happy.”

“We are not product pushers, men do not react well to product pushing,” Francoeur says.

“With men you have to prove it to them. You need to educate them. We talk to them big time about what we are using.” Francoeur says that after using the samples for a bit, clients see the benefits (get compliments), and come back ready for the buy.

Michael Gilman, owner of the Grooming Lounge with locations in McLean, VA, and Washington D.C., could not agree more.

“Products should not be sold at checkout,” he says. “Instead they need to be sold, explained in the chair or in the treatment room. If you just throw a bottle on the counter, there is no chance of making a sale.”

Watch your language. How you say it is also extremely important. Gilman says that in his salons they do not sell products, they sell “solutions,” and that makes all the difference to men. For Ginny Rodgers, manager of Studio One Eleven Day Spa and Salon for Men in Wilmington, DE, it all has to do with trust. “I believe it is easier to sell to a man than a woman. Men, if they trust you, will usually comply to your suggestions.”

So there you have it, some tips on how to upsell men from those who know it best! n

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

photos: Shutterstock.com

A man’s frame of mind

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MANZILIAN WAXING THE BOYS Most people find a smooth bikini line attractive and acceptable for women. But let’s face it, both men and women grow pubic hair. So why is performing a male bikini or Brazilian wax a taboo subject for most estheticians?

by Katie Hill

“It just becomes hair removal, regardless of sex,” said Erica Arancibia, esthetician and owner at The Beauty of Waxing in Dallas, TX, who offers male Brazilian services. Men want to look good too. Like women, they associate the practice of grooming and hair removal sexually appealing and hygienic.

Most men visit the spa because their partners encourage them to share the same great service they have with their esthetician. “I only accept male waxing clients by referral, and they are normally very loyal,” said Desiree Cortez, an esthetician and laser hair removal professional at Skin Rejuvenation Clinique in San Antonio, TX. “Otherwise, I do not advertise male Brazilian services.” Contrary to this philosophy, Michelle Shoemaker, esthetician and owner of Oasis

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photos: Shutterstock.com

ALL MEN’S GUIDE

THE

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ber, your skill is only as good as the confidence you have in yourself.

Whether you opt to advertise or take male clients by referral only, maintain professionalism in every aspect of your business and be straightforward. n

The Beauty of Waxing in Dallas, TX, offers the Brazilian Bikini Male for $79. First-time customers receive a complimentary post-care package to help ensure they have a pleasant recovery after the treatment.

At the Oasis Beauty Boutique in Raleigh, NC, you can find a dedicated men’s waxing menu and informative F.A.Q. page for men on the website (full Brazilian $75, partial $65).

Just Waxing Las Vegas in Nevada has a dedicated men’s waxing menu with a full Brazilian for $90, the men’s City Slicker (a patch of hair is left) for $75 and a male bikini for $50.

Male bikini and Brazilian waxing is by referral only at the Skin Rejuvenation Clinique in San Antonio, TX (full Brazilian, $80).

Katie Hill has nearly a decade of achievements in the beauty and wellness industry. As marketing coordinator for Skin Rejuvenation Clinique Inc. and Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts, she has been published in print and digital media, informing and educating about all things beauty throughout the nation.

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ALL MEN’S GUIDE

Beauty Boutique in Raleigh, NC, lists her male bikini and Brazilian waxing services on her website. “I have an F.A.Q. section on my website that answers all questions I have heard about men’s Brazilians. Many men (and women) have told me how much they like that.”

There is a growing group of men who are seeking professional services—and not at the demand of their partner. The Mintel Group found that young men (ages 18 to 34) are the leading source of sales in personal care.

Full-service grooming clubs are becoming a prevalent resource for masculine pampering— a type of sanctuary for men to receive facials, manicures and even bikini/Brazilian waxes without judgment or ridicule.

Male grooming clubs, market research and notable publications are talking about male pubic hair removal. But is it really a trend worth investing in? “Yes and no,” says Shoemaker. She emphasizes the importance of having a market for these services and technicians’ “need to have a confident and professional demeanor.”

A trait also emphasized by Kelly Knapp, esthetician and owner of Just Waxing Las Vegas in Las Vegas, NV. “More and more men are requesting the male Brazilian,” says Knapp.

Waxed bikini lines and male Brazilians are no longer reserved for athletes or bodybuilders.

Men of all ages have a desire to keep their “family jewels” neat and presentable.

Incorporating male bikini and Brazilian wax into an esthetic practice takes moxie and the technique to accompany it. Confidence, skill and exceptional client care are all important characteristics of wax professionals. Without them, waxing can be a painful, awkward and short-lived experience for the client.

Brazilian waxing involves the delicate skin of the genitalia. On men, this means the front pubic region and out toward the thighs, shaft, scrotum and anal area. It is important to outline the region to be waxed so the client is not surprised or left disappointed by the service.

Start a consultation by asking how much hair they would like removed. Communicate with the client during the procedure. Opt for a hard wax on male clients. Not all estheticians know how to use hard wax efficiently, but it is the best (if not only) option for a man’s sensitive, vascular and delicate skin of the genitalia. But remem-

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Page 66 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

TEENAGE CRUSH Spa treatments for the youth

photos: Shutterstock.com

by Nathalie Gouillou

Once upon a time there was a young boy who discovered the joys of spa treatments as part of a family day at a friendly resort. Years later as he returned to that vacation spot as an outgoing teenage beau, he befriended many adolescents, shared his interest in wellness and had them all join him for a fun, luxurious day at the teen only spa. And that is one of the many ways a “chance” spa youngster potentially turns into a lifetime spa-goer.

While the above story was shared to us by Lucia Amasio, executive spa director at Disney’s Laniwai Spa at Aulani in Ko Olina, HI, the magic of the famed mouse is accessible to all. And the message is a clear and simple one—implementing teenage oriented spa treatments at your locale is worth your while.

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Lasting clientele “We believe it is very important to satisfy the curiosity and pique the interest of the next generation of spa-goers,” said John Morris, spa director at the WELL Spa + Salon at the Grand Geneva in Lake Geneva, WI. “We want to educate them at an early age regarding the benefits of spa treatments as a therapeutic necessity. It can […] win life long loyalty.”

Take the story of Eva Kerschbaumer, owner of ESSpa in Pittsburgh, PA. She once had a young boy, whom she referred to as PJ, who came in for a facial—against his will—for a case of very bad acne. “PJ was a trooper for that first session when we extracted all kinds of dirt and blackheads, and his face was very pink and splotchy when he left,” Kerschbaumer says.

“But mom called a couple of days later saying

LNEONLINE.com • Page 67

spa | teenage crush that PJ was wondering when he was supposed to come back for his next ‘Eva facial,’ and thus began a twice monthly visitation pattern that lasted all through high school. PJ graduated college last year and always makes a point to drop in when he is back in town for holidays to say hi and get a facial.”

Reorganize and get started While some exclusive resorts like Aulani might feature a teen only spa where everything is designed with teen tastes in mind—from the inviting lounge, to the computer stations and the yogurt bar—spas and salons need not shy away from the myriad of possibilities that

catering to a younger segment of the population really means. Many of you already offer services that are teen friendly, and it is just a matter of reorganizing your menu a bit—creating new “cool” names—or using some teenenticing products (think sparkles, fruity scents and chocolate) to get you started. Some spas even suggest that caring for teen clients just like the adults is a good way to go.

Not only can teenagers turn into life long clients, but they can also become some of your best allies right now. Treatments such as massages require a parent or guardian to be present in the room, so think about it this way: If junior needs a massage to diffuse the school or sports incurred stress, why not have dad lie down on the adjacent table and have them both indulge in a relaxing treat? Packages that include mom and pop or teenage spa parties could be lucrative additions to your menu.

Get your staff on board While teen treatments might only be adult treatments in disguise, staff members need to be briefed on how to handle the younger guests, be aware of their parents’ possible concerns, handle their shyness and nervousness with care, and know the different products being used (if such is the case). “Each staff member goes through extensive training of each product line we use,” says Morris. “The product companies that we partner with have developed special protocols for teens and they supplement the training that we conduct.”

Once you are set on the teen services you wish to offer, have come up with creative names and picked just the right products—fruity scents, organics, acne treatments—get the word out.

Kerschbaumer’s teen clients are none other than the children of her adult guests. “Ninetyeight percent of the kids that come to us, either dragged by their parents or by a friend who recommended us, become lifelong customers who credit us with literally changing their lives,” says Kerschbaumer. If word of mouth is the plan of choice, social media favored by teens—Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram, to name a few—are also good ways to keep the buzz going.

Page 68 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

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spa | teenage crush

Words of wisdom “They are growing, changing, interested in fashion, so really take all those things into account,” says Amasio. “Do some research, look at Teen Vogue, what is out there in the media, what teens are doing.” For Joyce Owens, spa director of the Omni Homestead Resort & Spa in Hot Springs, VA, paying close attention to the teen client’s well-being is key. “Some teens are very shy and self conscious of their bodies, so having a therapist who is in tune with that always helps them to feel more comfortable.”

For Kerschbaumer, it is all about being real.

“Even though these same kids are buying the AXE ads and the prom trends,” Kerschbaumer says, “they are very savvy customers and will not spend money, even their parents’ money, on spa treatments that they do not think provide real benefits.”

“Some teens are very shy and self conscious of their bodies, so having a therapist who is in tune with that always helps them to feel more comfortable.”

Here are some of the most sought after teenage treatments, according to successful spas.

Teen massage: The spa at the Omni Homestead Resort offers the Initial Touch, where guests are introduced to massages through a neck and shoulder massage with aromatic essential oils before being lulled into relaxation with a full on body massage (20 min, $55).

Teen facial: ESSpa features the Teen Clean Facial that starts off with a skin care analysis, followed by cleansing, exfoliation, a treatment mask and a head and shoulder massage (60 min, $70).

Teen back facial: The New York Teen Spa at Lia Schorr in New York, NY, offers the New York Deep Cleansing Back Treatment where acne, oiliness and clogged pores—common teen issues—are treated with a steaming deep pore cleansing, extractions and soothing mud mask (60 min, $75).

Teen manicure and pedicure: The Junior Spa at the WELL Spa + Salon offers the Sealed

With a Kiss treatment. The junior guest is greeted with a glass of sparkling grape juice before receiving a pedicure, where her feet are soaked in a chocolate scrub before getting a knee to toe massage. Prior to choosing her nail color she will receive a finger to elbow massage, then enjoy a chocolate “kiss” as her nails are painted (60 min, $80).

Teen makeup consultation and application: At the Painted Sky Teen Spa at Aulani, young girls are coached into the art of makeup, where they learn to enhance their natural beauty, what best fits their complexion and how to apply it just right with the Painted Sky Makeup Application and Consultation (50 min, $75).

Spa parties: Love Thyself Day Spa in Dallas, TX, features the Kickin’ It Teen Spa party, where young clients are given tips on healthy living and skin care. Teen services include a Rock My World Massage, a Slammin’ Body Scrub, a mini Teen Clean Facial, a Botanical Foot Soak & Paraffin Hand Treatment and refreshments (2 hr, $175).

Parent-teen packages: Chocolate For Your Body Spa in Chicago, IL, offers the Mom & Me manicure and pedicure (60 min, $64). n

Teen treatment rules to keep in mind • Have the parent or guardian sign a liability waiver.

• The parent or guardian should be present for treatments done behind closed doors.

• Some spas opt for strictly same gender services.

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at nathalie@lneonline.com.

Page 70 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

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LNEONLINE.com • Page 71

POSEIDON’S RICHES Thalassotherapy-inspired treatments

by Lydia Sarfati

Page 72 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

There has been a lot of buzz about the benefits of seawater and seaweed recently. I see it on the television, in the newspapers, and it seems that more and more medical articles are finding that deep-sea therapies can provide much goodness to the body and mind.

photos: Shutterstock.com

Yet what might seem like a hot new topic is quite far from it. For centuries people around the world (including Japan, Italy and Greece) have sought out the therapeutic advantages of seawater. Ancient Egyptians and Greeks are often credited for understanding the curative properties of the ocean. Hippocrates—the father of western medicine—even recommended hot seawater baths to treat ailments and diseases, as well as for preventative purposes.

It was not until 1867, however, that therapeutic seawater immersions (and sea-based treatments) got a name of their own—thalassotherapy. Stemming from the Greek word for sea, thalassa, the term was coined by Dr. La Bonnardière to describe the use of seawater for healing and preventative measures, based on the belief that immersion in seawater revitalizes and cleanses the system. Used as a curing method, it has been found to firm and tone skin to reduce cellulite, stress, chronic fatigue, rheumatism, circulatory problems and to maintain overall wellness.

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spa | poseidon’s riches Beneficial properties of the sea A well established and regulated system for healing and prevention with a focus on health as opposed to well-being (thalassotherapy centers rely on their medical staff, nutritionists, hydrotherapists and physiotherapists), thalassotherapy, simply put, combines the use of the beneficial properties of the sea, including coastal climate, seawater, marine mud, seaweed, sand and any other substance coming from the sea. According to France Thalasso—a merger of the National Thalassotherapy professional syndicate and the international Thalassotherapy Federation—a thalassotherapy establishment must be within 1,000 m from the highest sea level, thus close to the sea, enjoy a marine climate (think sea breeze), use natural seawater in pools and individual treatments (France’s famed les Thermes Marins de Saint Malo pumps nearly 100,000 gallons of seawater daily for its seawater pools and baths) and use marine mud and seaweed in wraps, massages and other bodyworks services.

Today we are able to provide beneficial thalassotherapy-inspired treatments that are professional, and with clinically proven results for our clients. And you do not need to be located near the ocean to provide your clients with the goodness the sea has to offer.

Miracle plant The sea covers two-thirds of our planet.

The elements of seawater, particularly trace elements, can affect our metabolic levels.

Researchers point out the almost uncanny similarity between seawater and human plasma, our intercellular fluid. French biologist René Quinton discovered that human white blood globules—which die when taken out of their natural environment—continue to live in seawater. “In the internal environment of our system and only there,” wrote Quinton in Sea Water Organic Substance, “do we find the same mineral makeup, the same physiognomy, as that of seawater.” The human body, like the planet earth, is made of two-thirds water—which brings us to the plants beneath the sea.

Seaweed, a concentration of seawater—the first form of life, unicellular seaweed, appeared in the ocean more than 3 billion years ago— differs from terrestrial plants in many ways, but most importantly does not depend on the quality of the soil, and can therefore be up to 10,000 times richer in trace elements. There are more than 40,000 different species of seaweed worldwide—enough to cover every health and skin care concern. Roman women created the illusion of a fresh complexion with red seaweed based makeup; Aztecs made lake dwelling seaweed an important part of their diet, and today the Japanese eat on average 50 g of seaweed daily.

Rootless, the seaweed plant feeds through osmosis, absorbing minerals and vitamins from the seawater. Because of its feeding process, seaweed becomes a dense concentration of vitamins, minerals, trace elements, phytohormones and amino acids, thus making the miracle plant: anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, whitening, cytoprotective, anti-tyrosinase, anti-acne, antiinflammatory, and UV photo protective.

I personally grew up with the European tradition of going to a spa, which meant a place to “take in the waters.” Bathing was a part of my heritage and culture. Today I still take a nightly bath for 10-15 min. While your clients may not be able to benefit from the fresh ocean air or natural seawater immersions, if your spa has a whirlpool or bath, you can offer them seaweed and sea salt baths.

Page 74 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

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spa | poseidon’s riches

Seaweed and sea salt baths Seaweed baths made with kelp (Laminaria digitata and ascophyllum nodosum) provide hydrating, nourishing and antioxidant properties, including natural sources of 12 vitamins (including B12, C, E, K, and beta carotene), 18 amino acids, and 42 trace elements. The essential fatty acids help to maintain the skin barrier, while alginic acid (a polysaccharide) helps to lock moisture into the skin. Fill the tub with 101 °F (38 °C) water. Add 1 fl oz (30 ml) seaweeds and 16 oz of sea salt and allow your client to rest for 15-20 min. Follow the bath with a seaweed body cream massage. Sea salt baths are known for their ability to relieve muscle tension and aches, providing body detoxification and toning benefits—perfect for spas near gyms to help relax and detox clients after a workout.

Seaweed facials You can deliver the benefits of the sea to the face with a seaweed facial treatment. A soothing massage followed by a cooling and soothing fresh seaweed mask leaves the skin clean, refreshed, healthy and vibrant. Cayucos Aloha Spa in Cayucos, CA, offers the Seaweed Facial On The Go, an “express” treatment that rejuvenates, nourishes and hydrates the skin with the goodness from the sea (30 min, $55).

Seaweed bodyworks From scrubs and massages to masks, these services are perfect for relieving stress, invigorating sore muscles and imbibing the skin with the beneficial properties of the sea. The Thermes Marins de Saint-Malo offers a Seaweed Wrap, where a warm seaweed cream is applied on the body to reinforce the absorption of minerals from seawater treatment, and is washed off with seawater (25 min, $71). Alaya Spa, with various locations in India, features the Seaweed Thalassotherapy: Anti-Cellulite, a seaweed body contouring mask with a blend of four seaweeds (Laminara digitata, Ascophyllum nodosum, Fucus vesiculosus and Lithothamnium calcareum) that encourages slimming, firming and helps reduce the appearance of cellulite (60 min, about $60).

Whether you are near or far from the ocean, you can offer the unique properties of the sea to your clients with thalassotherapy-inspired treatments at your spa. n

Lydia Sarfati brought the beneficial tradition of seaweed treatments to the United States. She is the president and founder of Repêchage. She is an internationally recognized skin care expert with more than 30 years of experience in the industry, and has been quoted in multiple highly respected publications and appeared on television for her expertise. Sarfati is the honorary chair of EstheticsAmerica, CIDESCO USA and the Skin Care & Spa Council Director of Intercoiffure North America. She is the recipient of numerous prestigious industry awards, including LNE & Spa’s Crystal Award.

Email her at Lydia@repechage.com.

Page 76 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

Say youEsthétiques saw it in LNE&&Spa Spa and circle #149 on reader service card August 2014 • Les Nouvelles

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OXYGEN

TREATMENTS Breathe new life into tired skin

by David Vargas

Life is what the word brings to mind, for when deprived of it, most organisms die. Yet the word which uttering carries such heavy symbolism, has little less than three centuries in our vocabulary. Leave it to one of France’s leading modern chemists to come up with a name for without which life would end—oxygen.

An elite scientist of the 18th century, Antoine-Laurent de Lavoisier studied chemical reactions, precipitating the Chemical Revolution while identifying, isolating and naming—among many other accomplishments—the odorless, colorless and tasteless yet vital element. And today oxygen has gained yet a higher status; it not only allows one to stay alive, but to do so with style, as it has entered the realm of the beauty industry.

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The big O trend

Oxygen treatments—oxygen facials and oxygen inhalation bars—have been gaining popularity in spas around the globe, as A-list celebrities like Madonna boast and flaunt the benefits of being treated with oxygen.

An oxygen facial is not your typical kind of facial, where oils, scrubs, masks or other ointments are applied onto the skin or impurities are extracted. The oxygen facial consists of the use of a machine—with a wand that very much looks like a makeup artist’s airbrush gun—that sprays atomized moisturizers onto the face with a pressurized stream of oxygen. The idea is that the solution used, a power blend of antioxidants, peptides or hyaluronic acid (among others), carries the oxygen through the layers

photos: Shutterstock.com

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 79

spa | oxygen treatments of the skin. Clients feel the cold air grazing their skin with some slight pressure as the therapist’s hand works the wand around the entire face, a process that takes about an hour. The uninterrupted flow of 95% pure oxygen—the recommended percentile for better results—hydrates skin and gives the face an immediately plumper and smoother look, a critical factor for clients who covet visible instantaneous effects. The Peninsula Spa in Beverly Hills, CA, offers the Organic Oxygen Facial, where oxygen mist and high potency organic bio-Swiss serums are custom blended to erase signs of redness, sensitivity, premature aging and dullness while stimulating collagen and elastin production (60/90

min, $285/$375). The Red Door Spa in New York, NY, features the Oxygen Infusion Facial, where after being cleansed, the skin receives an infusion of oxygen and supporting minerals that leave the face hydrated and younger looking (75 min, $255). Depending on the serums used, oxygen facials can address the needs of a variety of clients, from anti-aging to smoothing, plumping and brightening, as well as different skin issues such as acneic, oily or sensitive—allowing spa and salon professionals to cater to all segments of the population. In addition, the results, although visible immediately, seemingly lessen within a week, and thus can be offered in series with recommended monthly maintenance—ideal to create a loyal following of customers, who can then be introduced to your other specialty treatments.

If investing in a machine is not within immediate means, creating facials that include an oxygenating product could be a simple yet effective way to offer your clients the benefits of oxygen. Elizabeth Skin Care in Forrest Hills, NY, features the Facial with Oxygenating Masque, where an oxygenating serum is massaged onto the face, neck and décolleté and left on the skin for 10 to 15 min to firm and hydrate, before being removed with tepid water (90 min, $150).

Perhaps introducing oxygen into the field of skin care was a natural progression, as the abundant element not only promotes cell regeneration, improves circulation, brightens the complexion, eliminates toxins and bacteria, speeds the healing process and reduces stress.

The use of oxygen concentration in the all encompassing field of health and wellness made its debut in the first half of the 20th century, when hyperbaric chambers, also known as decompression chambers, became an established treatment for oxygen-deprived divers afflicted with decompression illness—otherwise known as the bends. From there, oxygen treatments evolved and began to be used in hospitals to treat wounds, from burns and ulcers to bedsores.

A 2003 study a the Ohio State University found that difficult wounds, when treated with a bag containing pure oxygen placed over the lesion, healed—for the most part—at a higher rate with less scarring than with a typical treatment.

Page 80 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

A natural progression

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #140

spa | oxygen treatments

Breathing it in

While hyperbaric chambers or the other treatments mentioned here apply to specific conditions that can at times fall outside the realm of salon and spa services, those who wish to provide their clients with the many benefits oxygen has to offer can also do so the old fashioned way, by getting them to inhale it! Oxygen bars—which have gained popularity since they were first introduced in the United States in the 1990s—can easily be incorporated into spas or salons to cater to those clients who wish for a “breath of fresh air,” perhaps as an addition to their treatments. Oxygen bar aficionados argue that inhaling oxygen not only helps reduce stress, it also increases energy and even reduces the effects of a hangover!

Typically, the oxygen “hit” is priced at $1 per minute, a relatively easy way to add some revenue to your locale. Individually flavored scents can also be added to the experience, which clients enjoy as the different aromas can be mood enhancers.

At the Dhar ma Day Spa & Salon in Springfield, MO, the Oxygen Bar offers sessions of 10 or 20 min at $1 a min or $25 for 30 min. Clients are advised to “increase the overall enjoyment and relaxation of [their] spa service by utilizing oxygen before or after [their] service.”

At All About You Day Spa & Oxygen Bar in Pagosa Springs, CO, oxygen inhalation treatment is incorporated throughout the spa in many ways. Owner Pamela Larson, a licensed esthetician and respiratory therapist, not only offers her Oxygen Bar “to-go”—portable and available to rent for off site services such as weddings or other events—but also takes into consideration the shortness of breath, fatigue, headaches and nausea that some clients might experience due to the altitude as they visit the Rocky Mountains. To remedy such discomfort, the spa recommends an oxygen inhalation addon for the last 20 min with any massage service to help lessen any soreness due to toxins and lactic acid.

Despite some hesitant minds, the benefits of oxygen therapy are far from being just a bunch of “hot air,” and the oxygen treatment trend is one that is here to stay. Think about it, humans can survive 3 days or more without water and up to 3 weeks without food, but only minutes without oxygen. Now, take a nice, deep breath… n

Spas that offer oxygen facials and oxygen bars The Peninsula Spa in Beverly Hills, CA Organic Oxygen Facial (60/90 min, $285/$375)

The Red Door Spa in New York, NY Oxygen Infusion Facial (75 min, $255)

SkinSPA in Crève Coeur, MO Triple Layer Oxygen Facial (50 min, $99)

Sylvana Institute Med Spa in Frederick, MD Signature Facial (60 min, $150)

Elizabeth Skin Care in Forrest Hills, NY Facial with Oxygenating Masque (90 min, $150)

Dharma Day Spa & Salon in Springfield, MO Oxygen Bar (10 min, $10; 20 min, $20; 30 min, $25)

All About Your Day Spa & Oxygen Bar in Pagosa Springs, CO Oxygen Bar (10 min, $10) David Vargas is the founder and president of LUMAVERA, a complete line of luxury skin care products formulated with plant cell technology, virgin botanical extracts, antioxidant-rich super foods and advanced molecular technologies that address aging skin. He promises to continue developing products that blend the best of nature and science.

He can be reached at david@lumavera.com.

Page 82 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

DISTINCTIVE UNIT Silhouet-Tone’s latest Silver Peel is among the most affordable microdermabrasion units, says the company.

The Silver Peel is a crystal free device aimed at professionals seeking an alternative to traditional crystal microdermabrasion.

The Silver Peel features digital intensity adjustment, sound proof casing, SMART software for ease of maintenance, and uses HEPA filters. silhouettone.com 800.552.0418

Kaiderma Skin Care’s Tahitian Gardenia Ocean Body Scrub combines gentle mineral rich exfoliation, rejuvenating natural oils, vitamins A, C and E and free radical neutralizing antioxidants to restore a vibrant youthful appearance to the skin, says the company. The scrub features Dead Sea salt to gently remove the rough outer layer of dead skin cells, natural oils of coconut to support the skin barrier, and Monoi de Tahiti, a rare tiare infused coconut oil from Tahiti. Kaiderma is a new line of natural therapeutic skin care products by Marine Biomedical, Inc. kaiderma.com 855.310.9462

SAMPLE GOODNESS

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Bioelements introduces its Esthetician’s Professional Discovery Set, a 14-piece sampling of products that allows practitioners to safely try them before buying them. The set targets four of the most common client skin concerns with unique, abbreviated facial treatments: Bioelements Calming Facial Experience for sensitivity, Bioelements Firming Facial Experience for loss of firmness, Bioelements Surface Peel Facial Experience for lines, wrinkles and rough textured skin; Bioelements Detoxifying Facial Experience for dull, lackluster and lifeless skin. bioelements.com 800.433.6650

The LILA Strawberry Laser by LILA Enterprise is the latest FDA approved medical device designed to painlessly and instantly reduce inches from those unwanted fatty areas, says the company. The Strawberry Laser works by addressing the fat cells and encouraging a lean, slim and contoured body.

The cells shrink, while the contents are expelled naturally. mylilabody.com 888.600.4521

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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LNEONLINE.com • Page 83

business | the art of the client consultation

The

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by Diane Buccola

There have been many changes in the spa business over the years, but nothing as dramatic as the proliferation of professional skin care products available for purchase online. Gone are the days when a consumer was required to have a facial with an esthetician in order to buy professional products for home use. And as the online availability of our products continues to escalate—often at a discount—estheticians are being forced entirely out of the retail loop. We cannot compete with these deep discounts—nor should we try—but quite frankly, if adjustments are not made quickly, estheticians may be on their way to extinction! The good news, however, is that this is a battle that we can win. Not only can we expand our client base, we can also significantly increase our retail revenue and overall profit.

We are the skin care experts First and foremost, we need to re-establish ourselves as the skin care experts. Specifically, we must rethink and revamp our esthetic business by adding an abbreviated service category to our facial menu. This slight adjustment will meet two significant goals: One, it is an easy, comfortable and affordable way to bring in new clients who may be wary of the more expensive and lengthy standard facial; and two, it will cultivate a new and profitable retail-only clientele who at some point in the future will likely take advantage of our regular menu of services.

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photos: Shutterstock.com

business

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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business | the art of the client consultation When it comes to consumers, we know a couple of things for certain: We know that consumers want good skin care products (as evidenced by the surge in online sales); and we know that unless consumers already have a relationship with an esthetician, they are likely getting their skin care information from department store clerks, TV and magazine ads and various other salespeople.

A consumer buying products online without a face-to-face consultation with an esthetician is not going to get the most out of the products she buys, no matter where she buys them. What estheticians have that online retailers do not is expertise. Therefore, it is not in the consumer’s best interest to purchase professional skin care

products without the guidance of a well-trained esthetician. Without an esthetician’s skills in skin analysis and product knowledge training, it is unlikely that consumers will ever get optimum results from their product purchases.

Reinventing the consultation If you do not already have a stand-alone consultation on your menu, you should consider adding it. This 20-30 min appointment would be thorough, the goal of which is to develop a retail clientele that would come in for regular “check-up” appointments—perhaps a 30-min facial, or simply a re-evaluation and modification of their home care protocols, as needed.

The client’s consultation experience should be comprehensive, and for best results should include analysis equipment such as skin scanners, Wood’s Lamp, moisture checkers, pH pencils or any tool that you are comfortable with. Some of today’s high-tech equipment offer a camera feature, which allows you to take a baseline photo at the first consultation appointment and update the photo at each subsequent appointment.

The visual aspect at the initial consultation, as well as the documented improvement at each follow-up appointment, will have a powerful impact on the client.

It is essential that there be a fee associated with the initial consultation appointment, as it is important that the client is financially invested; for example, perhaps something in the range of $20-$25 for a 20-30 min consultation. Otherwise, the client may be compelled to take the information they have collected during the consultation and use it to purchase products elsewhere. You can certainly incentivize the client to purchase products by offering to waive the consultation fee; or you can deduct the consultation fee from the cost of client’s purchase, which results in an even bigger price break for the client.

The intake process The key element in a consultation is the intake form. Rather than asking the client to fill out the form, it is better that the esthetician asks the questions and records the client’s answers.

Some of the greatest insight into how we can best assist our client can come from this important conversation.

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business | the art of the client consultation The intake form I suggest creating your own intake form, which is specific to your spa menu or esthetic business.

Suggested categories and questions include, but are not limited to:

Evaluation results

a. Skin type b. Fitzpatrick scale rank c. Areas of hyperpigmentation d. Dehydration e. Open and closed comedones f. Evidence of rosacea g. Noteworthy moles

Medical history

a. Relevant health issues b. Allergies c. Oral or topical medications that may affect skin d. Recent cosmetic surgeries or injections e. Hormonal issues, including Hormone Replacement Therapy (HRT)

Personal

a. Client’s skin care issues and goals b. Lifestyle choices, such as smoking c. UV exposure (sun and/or tanning bed)

Contraindications a. Diseases b. Pregnancy c. Metal implants

Current home care product usage a. Brand b. Frequency c. Exfoliation d. Sunscreen e. Adverse reactions

Clients do not necessarily leave for financial reasons. They often leave because their specific needs were not met.

for skin care advice. To warrant that trust, we must commit to staying up-to-date with current esthetic trends, treatments, ingredients, skin conditions, etc. We must educate ourselves about our product lines so that we can teach our clients which products are best for his or her current skin condition, and precisely how each product should be used for optimum results. This is a service they cannot get from online sources or untrained salespeople. Simple methods to encourage client retention:

1

Newsletters are a great way to showcase our skills and knowledge to clients. They also serve to remind clients that we are keeping up with the ever-changing world of skin care, so they do not have to.

2 3

Customizing treatments and home care protocols to suit their specific needs.

Recommending specific home care protocols, including detailed written instructions regarding proper usage. And occasionally changing a product or two, perhaps seasonally, so they will learn to depend upon our expertise and direction.

4

Online e-store for clients. Most websites offer the option to password-protect a page.

Once clients are given the password, they can easily replenish their home care products by ordering from your website.

In the spa business, skin analysis is a tool that only trained estheticians can rightfully offer, because the untrained and under-qualified cannot possibly do it properly. We are the skin care experts, and the consultation is a great way for us to create loyal clients and achieve financial success. n

Client retention Now that you have enticed these retail-only clients to come in for a consultation, how do you keep them coming back? There are specific elements which are crucial to developing an unshakable bond with your clients.

It is all about education…ours and theirs.

We must help clients understand that there is no “one-size-fits-all” product or protocol when it comes to proper skin care, and that it is in their best interest to depend upon our esthetic training and considerable product knowledge

D i a n e B u c c o l a has been a licensed esthetician in California since 1998. She is the owner of SpaBizBoard.com.

Buccola is an advisory board member for Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has authored two books: Estheticians are a Girl’s Best Friend and The Heart of Esthetics: Creating Loyal Clients and Achieving Financial Success.

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“Inspired by nature... Realized by science.”

Plant & Fruit Stem Cells

Apple

Edelweiss

Strengthens and protects skin cells

A potent anti-wrinkle treatment

Grape

Protects from UV rays and environment stress

Orange

Minimizes fine lines/wrinkles, cellular regenerator

+ Peptides Argireline® – Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Matrixyl® – Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 Syn®-Coll – Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Regu®-age – Soy Peptides, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract Eyeliss™ – Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Rigin™ – Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Aldenine® - Tripeptide-1 Snap-8™ – Acetyl Octapeptide-3 Syn-Ake® – Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate Nutripeptides® – Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Matrixyl® synthe’6™ - Palmitoyl Cyclodextrin-38 Eyeseryl® – Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Stem Cells & Peptides Skin Care Technology Here to Stay Plant & Fruit stem cells have represented a major breakthrough in skin care, launching the beginning of a new system of treating the skin. With their ability to strengthen, protect, and replenish human skin cells, skin care has never had more potential to improve skin health and the appearance of aging skin. As Stem Cell Technology has gained popularity, Peptides have quietly remained a fixture in age-corrective skin care products. Their ability to stimulate different functions in the skin such as stimulating Collagen production, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, muscle cell contraction, and developing the dermal layer of the skin is unmatched.

With both technologies working synergistically, we’ve been committed to using a wide range and high concentrations of both to formulate some of the finest, result-driven skin care available.

LUCR È C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ A E S T HE T IC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.lu cre ce .co m Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card

Effectively addressing client complaints

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APPEASING UNHAPPY GUEST an

Though all spas attempt to deliver unwavering great guest experience; the fact is that every business has guests who will complain and express their dissatisfaction.

photos: Shutterstock.com

by Dori Soukup

They can go on Facebook, Yelp, LinkedIn, Twitter and so on… Guests complaints can ruin your reputation if not addressed properly.

For each unsatisfied client who complains, 26 other unhappy clients say nothing, and 24 of them will not come back.

The average client who experienced a problem with your business will tell 9 or 10 people about it.

When complaints are addressed quickly, 70 to 95% will do business with the company again.

As a consultant, I am hired to go to spas as a secret shopper to assess performance—this includes how the team will manage a complaint.

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business | appeasing an unhappy guest

During my last visit to a spa, I made a complaint and the receptionist informed me, “The manager is not available at this time to address your dissatisfaction.” This is obviously an unacceptable way to handle an unsatisfied guest. As a spa leader you must do two things: 1. Train your team on how to deliver a great guest experience and follow your structure, protocols and rituals so every guest is happy!

2. Train the team on how to manage unsatisfied guests and how to offer a resolution.

The following steps will help you discover how to best address guest complaints and regain them as a client.

Step 1: Adjust your mindset Once you are aware that your guest is unhappy, your first priority is to put yourself in their shoes. Do not place the blame on another person—take responsibility for the situation. You should be focusing on how you can solve their problem. Do not do this in the reception area—go to a private place.

Step 2: Actively listen This is most important. Hear them out; let them vent. Start the dialogue with a neutral statement, such as, “Please share with me what happened,” or “Please tell me why you are upset.” This helps you create a partnership between yourself and the guest. It lets them know that you are ready to listen. Do not jump to conclusions. Let them tell you their story and do not interrupt the conversation. Give the guest all of your attention.

Step 3: Repeat their concern Repeat the guest’s concern so you are certain that you are addressing the right issue. Use calm, objective wording. For example, “As I understand it, you have every right to be upset. Please accept my apologies.”

Repeating the problem shows the guest that you were listening, which helps to reduce stress levels. Additionally, it helps you agree on the problem that needs to be solved.

Step 4: Be empathetic and apologize

For example, you could say, “I understand why you are upset. I would be, too. I am very sorry that you did not get the experience that you were promised.”

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photos: Shutterstock.com

Once you fully understand their concerns, be empathetic. Make sure that your body language and voice communicate this understanding.

AGE

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Dermaware Founder Bio Chemist Gül Ç. Zone Recommends: 1. Skin Care solutions should be targeted per condition.

2. Balance healing elements with advanced corrective treatments.

3. View all these options on our professional only website.

4. Click on orange professional button to register.

medical and spa

professionals register now www.dermaware.com/ professional

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business | appeasing an unhappy guest

“Quality in service or product is not what you put into it, it is what the client gets out of it!”

- Peter Drucker

Step 5: Present a solution There are two ways to do this.

1. Ask the guest, “What can I do to make it up to you?” You may find that most often they say, “Nothing, I just wanted you to know about it.”

2. Offer a satisfactory resolution. Ritz-Carlton employees are empowered to resolve complaints on the spot. Each employee can spend as much as $2,500 to resolve guest satisfaction issues. If you are going to offer a resolution, try giving them a gift card to use toward a future visit. This will encourage the guest to come back, and it allows you to redeem yourself with the chance to turn them into a loyal client again. If you do issue a gift card, make sure you make a note in their records to ensure they get treated like royalty when they return.

Step 6: Surprise them and follow up A complaint can be made in person, over the phone or online. Either way, once you have both agreed on a solution, you will need to take action—immediately. Once the situation has been resolved, follow up on whatever you promised. Go above and beyond their expectations. For instance, you could send an unexpected gift with a hand-written apology.

This will help them re-engage and form a new opinion of your business.

Keep in mind that your guests want to be taken seriously, listened to and respected.

This begins with a timely, sincere response.

Addressing a complaint as soon as it comes up will make for a quick recovery.

As spa leaders, your focus on retention is key to your success. It is a fact that it costs at least five times as much to attract a new client than it does to keep an existing one. That is why the entire team should focus on treating each guest like a gem! Winning new clients is much more expensive. To help you reduce guest complaints and increase guest satisfaction, calculate your current retention and set new retention targets for each team member. Develop a bonus program to reward high retention.

Meeting the basic needs of a guest is not enough. If you want to make a lasting impression and create raving fans, you need to go the extra mile. Giving your guests more than they expect will not only keep them coming back, it will also inspire them to tell their friends about the great spa experience they received. n

Learn from your mistakes Your last step is to learn from your mistakes. Identify the problem, come up with a solution, train the team and make sure it is fixed immediately and that there is continual improvement on similar situations that come up in the future. Continue improving by role playing to ensure the ongoing improvement of your guest experience.

Also, make sure that all of your team members know how to handle complaints.

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@insparationmanagement.com.

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photos: Shutterstock.com

Step 7:

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CONTAGIOUS

INSPIRATION SHARE YOUR PASSION

by David Suzuki

Mastery

True passion is something that cannot be bought or taught, it is only something that can evolve organically within us through belief and desire. When a passion is realized, it becomes an endless source of energy and optimism, making anything seem possible.

Passion is virally contagious as it emanates from us, with or without words, and is entirely how tribes of our modern culture are formed.

This includes our business as a skin therapist.

Those who follow and support our business share and support our vision and are inspired by our passion. In short, they believe in us.

The process of education takes on many different forms, and means something different to each of us, as we are all unique. However, education cannot simply be a matter of memorizing material. It must be experienced to truly mean something, and must have a beneficial impact in shaping our lives and direction. As the metaphor suggests, knowledge is power.

The more that we learn and understand, the more that we can consider how to more effectively and efficiently meet our unique objectives in life and in business. The better we become at our craft, the more rapidly we can achieve a level of mastery and success.

photos: Shutterstock.com

Organic passion

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business | contagious inspiration

Define education

Contagious inspiration

In the world of skin care today, education can be obtained via websites, books, webinars and live education events.

Always work with forward thinking manufacturers that offer the entire array of educational tools and as importantly, believe in the philosophy that the process of education is perpetual.

That being said, look for partners who have comprehensive continuous education available all the time, in bite-size increments without additional costs to you as their partner.

If they truly want you to succeed with their product or technology, they should be more than willing and be eager to spend as much time with you as often as possible to help you continuously perfect your craft. Your success is their success. After all, is this not what defines a partner?

There is nothing like the experience of a presentation put forth by an educator with true organic passion that fills our reservoir with energy.

After we complete an exciting class and learn more about our craft, we are inspired. This energy is contagious through our team, and as importantly, through our clients.

Our new knowledge becomes a topic of conversation that can be shared, and helps us make positive forward thinking model shifts in our business philosophy, our menu, the technology that we implement and the products that we choose to retail.

As we lead our tribe forward to exciting new ideas and concepts, this contagious inspiration is passed to our team and clients, who in turn pass the information to others for no reason other than their genuine enthusiasm.

A little bit all the time

Lead through science

With the responsibility of running your own business and more than a full schedule, sometimes dedicating even an hour a week to education may be tough to capture, while at the same time it is worth its weight in gold.

A good partner who really cares for you will be your mentor, your coach, your consultant and your team, helping you achieve your unique objectives every step of the way.

Today’s consumer is savvy when it comes to the latest trends in skin care. This is just one of many distinct attributes of today’s online culture. They expect us to lead and be able to help them discern fact from fiction, so that together we can continue to refine and perfect their skin care objectives.

This in itself affirms the need for us to never let up on our ongoing education, as well as to work with partners that we can turn to for answers as needed.

It also affirms our need to stay current with the latest trends in ingredients and technology, including the science, efficacy, mechanisms of action and why and how each function will benefit our skin.

Forward thinking manufacturers should have all of their product information readily available for you on their website, as well as in a printed book form.

The basic information should include product specifications, material safety data sheets (MSDS), application and protocol information, key ingredients, talking points to share with clients, and the white papers, which are the clinical studies performed by the pharmaceutical companies who manufacture the key active ingredients in each product.

Having this base of information will allow you to quickly learn and reference most information needed to answer consumer questions intelligently and thoroughly.

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business

The white papers allow you to understand and share the core science behind each individual ingredient, including the mechanism of action that allows each benefit to occur.

photos: Shutterstock.com

Lead through education Leading your clients through proactive education is a more forward thinking model than waiting for questions to materialize via other professionals or advertisements.

This can be done by perpetually sharing clinical information of key ingredients on your website for those inquisitive minds that like to have more in-depth information.

Making easy to read brochures available that highlight and quickly describe the function of the key ingredients, creating regular news letters (electronic or printed), signage in the waiting area, and of course verbal communication and education where you can share your new learned knowledge with each of your clients.

There is no one way to do this correctly, and my advice is to use all pathways in small, focused doses. A little bit, all the time.

As a business owner, I know firsthand how important it is to have sincere, forward thinking partners who care about you and your business, truly understand that your success is their success, and inspire and bring new energy to your

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

business rather than absorb what you have.

Seek out partners that truly understand what partnership is really about, who believe in perpetual education, constant and consistent support, and your unique vision.

Be inspired, be educated, and be passionate. Although no two businesses are the same, I firmly believe that these three attributes, while unspoken, are clearly present in every successful business! n

Today’s consumer is savvy when it comes to the latest trends in skin care.

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes.

Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com.

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NEW CARE LINE

BIZNEWS

Biologic Cosmetics Inc. launched its stem cell based skin care and beauty solution formulated by Molecular Biologist Dr. John Hayden. What is unique about Biologic Cosmetics, says the company, is that the active ingredient is stem cell oligopeptide extracted from vaccine-grade fertilized hen eggs that have many beneficial factors.

The line of products includes cleansings, moisturizers, anti-aging and youth serums, neck creams, skin brighteners and a salon specific stem cell beauty therapy for spas. biologicworld.com 650.771.7676

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE MORE NEWS

MEDIA EVENT PCA SKIN hosted Be Ageless, an exciting event for the media and PCA SKIN customers on May 5 in Dallas, TX, that focused on the value PCA brings to skin health practices. Those who attended learned about newly launched products from PCA SKIN, enjoyed mini makeup lessons from jane iredale makeup consultants and experienced a PCA SKIN professional hand treatment. pcaskin.com 877.PCA.SKIN

UP AND COMING NATURAL Renewable Beauty™ is a new brand of natural skin care with formulas that help renew and protect skin by combining plant ingredients with the unique flora of the Amazon rainforest, says the company. To balance the delivery of benefits to the skin, a proprietary mixture was developed: The Tropical HAVEN™ Complex.

The company’s first two launches are the Skin Renewal Serum (with fruit stem cell, cucumber, bearberry and licorice extracts) and Skin Renewal Eye Cream (with squalane, hyaluronic acid, phytonadione and hesperidin) renewable-beauty.com 817.300.0387

SOUTHERN REWARD

(from left to right: Alicia Winkley— national educator; Lauren McDaniel— integrated marketing manager; Michelle Goldsmith—national educator; AnnMarie Carroll—account manager; Emily Rowan—practice development advisor)

F Care Systems USA was awarded the 2014 Innovation Award from the French American chamber of Commerce of Florida for its monopolar thermocoagulation device that treats vein diseases. Each year the French American Chamber of Commerce distinguishes the company that contributed most to South Florida with its innovative product or concept, whatever the field of action. fcaresystems.us 786.288.0740

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The TAC IT GmbH presents its Hot Deals, a new module for the last minute promotion of available treatments in spas and fitness clubs.

TAC (The Assistant Company) has come up with a solution to the dilemma faced by managers in the wellness industry, where staff and rooms are ready but the guest is a no show. Hot Deals are special offers that can be booked on a specific day. The Austrian TAC GmbH specializes in the development of innovative software solutions for the hospitality industry. tac.eu.com 847.869.3150

HYDRATING LUXURY Circadia By Dr. Pugliese’s The Pillowcase, the company’s exclusive all night skin care treatment accessory, has a new and elegant presentation. The Pillowcase is a moisturizing pillowcase that controls sleep lines, says the company. “When you sleep, your skin is potentially pressed for hours against a wrinkled fabric while the body’s natural nightly water loss from the skin is further increased by the absorbent property of cotton and other fabrics,” says Circadia CEO Michael Q. Pugliese. “These factors combine to produce what science calls compression defects in the skin. We call them sleep lines.” circadia.com 800.630.4710

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

CELEBRATORY ANNIVERSARY This year marks 60 years of Yon-Ka Paris, one of the leaders in aroma-therapeutic spa treatments and products. Founded in France in 1954 by the Muhlethaler family, Yon-Ka Paris has been a pioneer in botanical skin care for the past 6 decades. Each product is developed to respond to specific skin care needs, providing outstanding results with no compromise to the skin’s health, says the company. As a specialist and pioneer in phyto-aromatic skin care, Yon-Ka draws a treasure of benefits from essential oils, fruit, plant extracts and marine elements. yonkausa.com 800.533.6276

BIZNEWS

LAST MINUTE OFFERS

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

DRESS FOR SUCCESS Fashionizer Couture Uniforms announced its first global partnership with the luxury brand Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas. Six Senses chose the UK design company to create a new uniform concept for its spas and resorts worldwide.

“It has been very exciting to work with the Six Senses team led by CEO Neil Jacobs and Vice President Anna Bjurstam,” said Fashionizer Managing Director Debbie Leon. “The project has been a challenging one, working with requirements for a wide variety of shapes and sizes of uniforms across some very different climates.” fashionizerspauniforms.com 888.641.4010

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organic & wellness

Aloe and spa

by Ahmed Abdullah, M.D., F.A.C.S., F.I.C.S.

A PERFECT PAIRING Aloe is, perhaps, one of the most underestimated skin care ingredients in use today. As consumers, we have become almost immune to its presence in the products we buy; after all, it is used in everything from shaving cream to toilet paper. We know of its reputation for soothing the skin, but because most of us have never experienced a remarkable transformation from the everyday products that contain it, we do not give aloe a second thought. Consider, however, that Aristotle referred to aloe as “the potted physician,” and you get the sense that these over-the-counter products might be missing something.

Benefits of aloe Aloe has been used for centuries as a natural remedy for the treatment of numerous ailments, including skin abrasions, frostbite, periodontal disease, diabetes, psoriasis, burns and more. In fact, records of its restorative powers date back to 2,100 BC. What is more, Cleopatra was said to have used it regularly on her skin and regarded it as her beauty secret.

So what makes aloe such a potent healer? The plant’s gel is loaded with more than 200 active components, including vitamins, minerals, amino acids, enzymes, polysaccharides, fatty acids and more. This mix gives aloe several abilities that make it particularly beneficial to the skin, especially skin that is burned, damaged or generally inflamed. These include the following:

• Aloe is an antimicrobial due to the presence of saponin and, as such, is lethal against various organisms.

• It acts as an anesthetic because of its aspirin-like compounds.

• Aloe is an anti-inflammatory thanks to the presence of salicylic acid and sterols.

• It can penetrate skin tissue due to lignin, a substance similar to cellulose.

• It is proven to heal wounds because it contains gibberellin and lectin, which increases protein synthesis and improves the collagen matrix.

Ensuring aloe of the highest quality To capture these benefits, however, it is essential that aloe of superior quality be incorporated into skin care products and spa treatments. Fresh aloe, for example, contains irritating substances, such as anthraquinones, which can cause contact irritation or allergic reaction in some individuals, and therefore is not recommended.

Meanwhile, over-the-counter products typically utilize a low grade of aloe gel, which also contains impurities. Coupled

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organic & wellness

Spa treatments that incorporate aloe Spa L’Auberge in Del Mar, CA Soothing Renewal Facial (50 min, $145; 80 min, $195) Skin is transformed with this all natural facial designed to deliver radiance. Natural fruit acids and lactic acid gently exfoliate dead skin cells. This is followed by a nourishing treatment masque incorporating aloe and green tea to brighten, hydrate and soothe.

This facial is especially suitable for sun-kissed skin.

Joya Spa in Scottsdale, AZ Desert Cactus Renewal Facial (50 min, $159) This facial treatment is designed to rebuild and strengthen skin.

Antioxidant-rich cherry enzymes provide gentle exfoliation and protect against free radical damage while rebuilding healthy skin tissue.

A nourishing cactus and mud mask combines the natural healing and hydrating benefits of aloe vera and cactus with mineral-rich clays.

photos: Shutterstock.com

Spa Terre in Naples, FL with the fact that these products add aloe in minimal concentrations, it is clear that there is not much potential for skin healing.

The only suitable type of aloe for skin care applications is pharmaceutical-grade—the purest form available.

What is more, it is essential that the aloe gel be properly harvested to maintain its bioactivity. Aloe certified by the International Aloe Science Council (IASC) will meet this latter requirement.

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Use in skin care products and spa treatments To get maximum benefits from skin care products that utilize aloe, pay particular attention to the ingredient list. You want the product to feature a base of pharmaceutical-grade aloe, which means it is the most prevalent ingredient in the formulation. You can determine a product’s base by looking at the first ingredient listed on the ingredient list. If the product meets

Exotic Mediterranean Wrap (50 min, $140) This body wrap is a natural source of well-being. Various species of plants and bushes from the Mediterranean vegetation nourish the skin and please the senses through their fragrances, texture, lively colors and skin care properties. The treatment starts with a body scrub with argan shells, sea salt and beeswax, and finishes with a body wrap made with aloe vera and mint.

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organic & wellness | aloe and spa this requirement but does not indicate whether the pharmaceutical-grade aloe is IASC-certified, call the manufacturer to find out.

Within your spa, aloe can be incorporated into your clients’ experience from the moment they walk in the door.

Consider adding IASC-certified aloe vera juice to the menu of beverages you offer your clients. Aloe juice has been shown to relieve indigestion and supports a healthy immune system, while offering a large dose of vitamins and minerals. Additionally, pharmaceuticalgrade aloe can be applied directly to the skin following any procedure that causes inflammation, such as waxing, laser hair removal, dermabrasion and chemical peels. In fact, aloe-based chemical peels have entered the market within the past year, which provide the benefits of an effective peel without the same degree of burning experienced from non-aloe based products.

Keep in mind that your clients may need to be educated about the benefits

of aloe and the differences between drug store brands and professional products or treatments that incorporate pharmaceutical-grade aloe gel.

By helping your clients to select the right aloe-based products and offering treatments that incorporate them, you can help them to make big gains in the quality and health of their skin. n Ahmed Abdullah, M.D., F.A.C.S., F.I.C.S. is a board-certified plastic/ reconstructive surgeon and a recognized expert on the restorative and medicinal effects of aloe vera. Dr. Abdullah is the author of Simple Skincare, Beautiful Skin: A Back-to-Basics Approach. He is the founder of Lexli International, Inc. (lexli.com), and formulator of the company’s professional skin care products.

COMING NEXT MONTH

LNE & SPA

SUN DAMAGE REVERSAL It's a year round battle for skin care and spa clients—reversing the signs of aging, preventing wrinkles, smoothing, clarifying and brightening their skin.

Yet when summertime comes around, these efforts take a back seat for some pool and beach fun. Follow the guide to help your customers get back on track and make up for all the fun in the sun.

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THE SCIENCE OF FEEDING THE SKIN CREATING A UNION OF SKIN CARE AND NUTRITION FOR YOUR CLIENTS

by Celeste Hilling

photos: Shutterstock.com

What are the critical ABCs of health as kids head back to class and parents adjust to even busier routines?

With teens and tweens coming to you right now for back-to-school skin care regimens, I urge you to teach them how to make a “nutrition sandwich.”

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organic & wellness | the science of feeding the skin

Omega fatty acids and vitamins A, C and D are the foundations for creating lasting health for babies to seniors.

With consumers concentrating more on living healthier lifestyles, you have an eager, engaged audience to coach on stronger nutrition and skin from the inside out. Approaching clients with lessons on inside-out beauty moves the roles of skin care professionals from simple cosmetic advisors to providers of life-saving education.

Several years ago, I researched vitamin D and its relationship to many chronic skin conditions such as rosacea, psoriasis, vitiligo and heavy wrinkling.

As I spoke with research and medical specialists, I grew to appreciate the critical importance of vitamin D in enhancing one’s health inside and out.

Whole foods are a fit for everyone in the family—kids, seniors, vegans and raw dieters.

Even though your clients may be taking supplements, it is what the body absorbs and uses that counts, which is why education on whole

Creating a client tutorial for inside-out beauty When explaining the union of skin care and nutrition to clients, address these points to help them easily understand the correlation:

1 2 3 4

foods is important.

Skin is an organ, and responds to healthy nutrition as positively as other organs in the body.

It is challenging for the skin to get vital nutrients from food because less than 1% of the vitamins we ingest ever make their way to the skin. That is why topical application of those vitamins is so important.

The key essential nutrients that are critical in healthy nutrition are also critical in effective skin.

Create a “nutrition sandwich.” It is important to eat well to be healthy inside, and apply topical products externally to restore strength and beauty on the exterior.

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organic & wellness

Inside-out beauty does not require a lot of time and effort. Here is a handy guide that you can use as a tutorial to encourage clients to keep vitamins on their grocery list and in their beauty bags:

Vitamin A is applied to the skin to improve wound healing, protect against UV radiation, reduce wrinkles, firm and tighten.

In high concentrations, vitamin A can be harsh. I like applying vitamin A daily, so I use the milder forms with concentrations of 0.01 to 0.05%.

One pomegranate can supply 40% of an adult’s daily requirement of vitamin C. Other foods rich in C include oranges, broccoli, cantaloupe, pumpkin and tomatoes.

Encourage use in a serum form, instead of lotions or creams, as vitamin C oxygenates very quickly when it hits the air.

Vitamin A may be called retinyl, retinol or retinoid.

Vitamin D is of particular interest to skin care

Sweet potatoes, carrots, green tea, broccoli and pumpkin are excellent sources of vitamin A.

professionals because it is only made in one place—the skin. All other vitamins come from food.

Vitamin A in the form of creams, lotions or serums is effective when applied topically.

photos: Shutterstock.com

Vitamin C has to be present in order for collagen to be made. Encourage clients to use a concentration of 20% or higher daily. It should be applied in the morning under sunscreen to boost sun protection.

Vitamin C has many benefits, including pro-

D deficiency may be linked to cancer, cardiovascular disease, autoimmune disease, bone loss, depression and many other serious health conditions.

tection against immune system deficiencies, cardiovascular disease, prenatal health problems, eye disease and skin wrinkling.

It gives the skin density, tightness and glow, eliminates uneven skin tone and fights free radical damage.

Vitamin D is a hormone. Because we know that hormonal imbalances cause skin conditions, if vitamin D levels can be balanced, a lot of skin conditions will improve such as rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and heavy wrinkling.

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 107

organic & wellness | the science of feeding the skin

Less than 1% of the vitamins we ingest ever make their way to the skin.

With age, the skin’s ability to produce vitamin D declines.

Seasonal variations (such as dreary winter weather), geographical location and aging reduce our skin’s ability to manufacture vitamin D from sunlight.

Fatty fish such as salmon, tuna and mackerel are among the best sources of vitamin D. Beef liver, cheese, mushrooms and egg yolks are also great sources.

The USDA daily requirement of vitamin D is 600 IU per day. Many physicians recommend a higher level of about 1,200 IU per day. Active people may require even greater levels for additional replenishment.

Omega fatty acids, including omegas 3 and 6, improve the skin layer that holds moisture in and keeps irritation out. Fatty acids may also improve rosacea and dermatitis.

Omega fatty acids are found in fish, including salmon, tilapia and cod, as well as plant-based

sources such as flaxseed, walnuts, pecans and hazelnuts. It is also a good idea to cook with safflower or sunflower oil, as they are good sources of omega 6, which helps prevent dry skin and inflammation.

Omega fatty acids work on the surface of the skin and are best applied in creams and lotions, both morning and night. n

Celeste Hilling is the founder, CEO and product formulator for Skin Authority. She has 2 decades of experience in the beauty and skin care industries. Hilling is a respected speaker and media resource on skin care, healthy lifestyles, self-esteem and business. For more information, visit skinauthority.com, Facebook at Skin Authority and Twitter @SkinAuthority and @MissSkin.

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COSMIC ZEN When weightlessness meets the ancient Indian art photos: AntiGravity Yoga

by Nathalie Gouillou

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

The delicate form hangs from the ceiling like a chrysalis dangling from a branch. Immobile at first, it slowly starts to open up to reveal an arm, then another.

From the “cocoon” emerges a man who stretches and initiates a graceful choreography as if floating, his body suspended only by fabric that had moments before enveloped him—that is AntiGravity Yoga.

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organic & wellness | cosmic zen

“The sky is the limit” “People initially want to try it because they want to experience freedom of movement,” says Harrison, a former gymnast and renowned dancer. “However they come back to the technique because of the immediate results that they see and feel in health and wellness.”

Known as Defy Gravity or Aerial Yoga, AntiGravity Yoga (the specific name is registered to Harrison) gives people a different approach to fitness, one that uses a hammock, sling or swing, a silky fabric that acts as a soft trapeze or support for the body.

Practitioners say the technique is a great alternative to traditional exercise, as the fabric allows people to stretch and strengthen with little pressure or stress on the joints and spine.

A wholesome activity “Zero Compression Inversions are one of the best things you can do for your body, especially if you have any back pain,” says Harrison

of the moves that have people dangling upside down from the hammocks. “Meditating in an AntiGravity Hammock is pure bliss. Once you experience the physical and mental benefits from the technique, you want more.”

The benefits of aerial yoga are many: It can decompress the spine, increase flexibility, strengthen the core, and increase joint mobility and balance.

It is a fun activity that mixes a workout with meditation—wellness for the body and mind.

People of all ages (including children) and fitness levels can participate and fall for the unique exercise as restrictions (or rather precautions) are few: pregnant women, people with very high or low blood pressure, people who have had a recent surgery or head injury; people who have very weak bones, suffer from vertigo or epilepsy and those who have a propensity for fainting.

A thriving trend More and more fitness clubs and studios across the country are incorporating some form of aerial yoga into their menu. The trend, which receives plenty of support from big names like Pink who used the technique for her 2010 Grammy Awards performance, is in-demand as yoga students, health aficionados and curious minds all want to give the seemingly effortless workout a shot.

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photos: AntiGravity Yoga

The man is none other than Christopher Harrison, the mind behind the trend that has taken over the wellness world, mixing fitness, yoga, dance, gymnastics and acrobatics in the air. Just like butterflies arising from metamorphosis, AntiGravity Yoga gives people wings and freedom.

organic & wellness “We began offering AntiGravity classes in September 2013,” says Lisa Muehlenbein, owner of Zen Studios in Spartanburg, SC. “To this day, our classes are consistently full, with students on a waiting list hoping to get in.”

Training and installation In order to offer that specific type of fitness yoga in their facilities, instructors need some level of training and hammocks (both are available from varying centers and manufacturers who have picked up on the trend).

The instructor courses offered at Harrison’s AntiGravity Fitness Training Center in Manhattan, NY, recommend that teachers be certified in yoga, Pilates or some other fitness program prior to undertaking aerial yoga. The courses touch on the fundamentals of aerial yoga, how to prop oneself on the hammock, help the students, and offer a number of solid aerial class variations and asanas (body positions).

Hammocks are generally sold in kits that include all that is needed to set them up—except for the hardware necessary for the ceiling.

Most companies recommend that a licensed contractor install the ceiling fixtures, which can withstand up to 2,000 lb when installed properly.

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Instructors can start off with as many or as few hammocks as they want depending on their budget, the size of their studio and the clientele that they envision attracting—a quick survey with regular customers as to their interest in trying aerial yoga could be a good way to determine the potential attendance of such a class.

Hammocks can share the space where other floor-based yoga classes are offered; they can either be unclipped (removed from the gear that attaches them to the ceiling), weaved together and tied to the side, or folded up to create space for floor exercises.

While the upfront investment in training and apparatus might seem a bit hefty to some, for Muehlenbein, incorporating aerial yoga into her studio was a good business decision.

“I have many friends all over the country who own yoga studios and they are constantly asking me about AntiGravity,” says Muehlenbein. “[M]y answer, without a doubt, is ‘do it!’”

“Zero Compression Inversions are one of the best things you can do for your body, especially if you have any back pain. ” - Christopher Harrison

Is it yoga?

If die-hard conventional yoga practitioners might resist the idea of such activity being attached to the ancient Indian art, for Muehlenbein, there is no question about it.

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Studios and fitness centers that offer aerial yoga

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at nathalie@lneonline.com.

Zen Studios in Spartanburg, SC Zen Studios offers Harrison’s AntiGravity® Yoga 60 min, $22 Defy Gravity Yoga in Delray Beach, FL 60 to 75 min, $25 The Yoga Studio in Campbell, CA The Yoga Studio offers Unnata® Aerial Yoga, a form of aerial yoga created by Michelle Dortignac 75 min, $23 Vertical Fitness Dallas in Dallas, TX Their aerial yoga is developed from their Aerial Arts and Silks program 60 min, $25 Fairmont Scottsdale Princess and Well & Being at Willow Stream Spa in Scottsdale, AZ Aerial Yoga 75 min fitness classes are included in the $45 daily spa access fee or waived with a 60 min service

Page 112 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

photos: AntiGravity Yoga

“Yes, but it is its own style,” she says. “As I explored other styles of yoga, I had to let go of any expectations I had of them being like Vinyasa.

I had to respect that they were different.”

Harrison has this to add, “Yoga is constantly evolving. The one constant is that yoga is a practice of body/mind/spirit, which our practice adheres to.”

The trend is here to stay, aerial yoga aficionados say, because the possibilities are endless.

For those still hesitant about adding the practice to their menu, Muehlenbein only has this to say, “What are you waiting for? Fly high!” n

SOOTHING GOODNESS The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant rich argan, jojoba and blueberry oils in Homespun Apothecary’s Saving Grace Youth Serum heal, renew and protect the skin, says the company. A blend of essential oils and absolutes including rose, vanilla, carrot seed and clary sage make this serum especially beneficial for those with eczema, rosacea, acne, dry or mature skin. homespunapothecary.com 951.970.1921

Ling Skin Care introduces its Spiritual Organic Lifestyle Body Collection.

The SOL line combines a holistic wellness approach to skin care with Asian health principles to enhance the well-being of the mind and body, says the company. The collection includes a Body Butter, Green Tea Massage & Bath Oil and Body Hydrator, and comes in the following scents: Mandarin & Lavender (feeLing Calm), Ginger & Black Pepper (feeLing Warm), Mint & May Chang (feeLing Uplifted), Jasmine & Frangipani (feeLing Beautiful), and Eucalyptus & Juniper (feeLing Protected). lingskincare.com 888.815.LING

NATURAL CLEANSERS FLOWER POWER FROM AFRICA Shea Terra Organics introduced its Senegalese Hibiscus Oil, a face oil for younger, more radiant looking skin.

The Hibiscus Oil is pure fixed oil pressed manually from the flower seeds, and comes from a group of hibiscus farmers in Senegal. These seeds produce precious oil high in plant sterols, vitamin E and essential fatty acids.

The oil promotes cell regeneration, softens skin and reduces fine lines while enhancing the skin’s moisture level, says the company. sheaterraorganics.com 877.427.6627 August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Primal Life Organics Paleo Skincare introduced its DirtyEx @ Midnight and Dirty-Ex Sweet Revenge, two face exfoliators offered as a mineral (@ Midnight) or a facial sugar scrub (Sweet Revenge). Rich in clays and fruit extracts, the exfoliators cleanse the skin of bacteria and impurities, gently remove dead skin cells, tighten pores, detoxify and protect to prevent further skin complications, says the company. primallifeorganics.com 330.238.3101

ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS

HARMONIOUS LINE

ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES MORE NEWS LNEONLINE.com • Page 113

ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS

GRAIN STRENGTH

ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES

FRUIT PUNCH

Dr. Grandel’s Elements of Nature is a high quality state of the art skin care series that is well tolerated by the skin. It combines nature, tradition and effectiveness with a selection of the plant source actives and raw materials, the company says.

Epigran, the multi-active essence obtained from wheat germ, is at the heart of the series with more than a dozen products. grandel.com 800.729.1242

The new Coconut Water skin care line from Fruitique® harnesses the replenishing power of pure coconut water to gently cleanse and balance the skin, says the company. Paraben free and rich in vitamins, antioxidants and soothing extracts of aloe and cucumber, the collection naturally plumps the skin to soften the appearance of fine lines. The line includes a face wash, a tonic mist, a night repair crème and makeup remover pads. fruitiqueskincare.com 800.621.9585

REPLENISH SKIN Ilike organic skin care anti-aging Hyaluronic Time Erase ComplexTM line, to be available in September, includes a gel mask, a serum, a moisturizer and an eye cream that feature hyaluronic acid, ginkgo, yucca, calendula, horsetail and marshmallow to help replenish the skin barrier and promote visibly younger looking skin, says the company. The line is GMO, gluten and vegan-free. szepelet.com 888.290.6238

HOLISTIC ESSENCE Bring peace and calm to your client’s body and mind with the help of Li’tya’s Reharmonise Body Oil Blend, that features essential oils of Australian blue cypress, mandarin and ylang ylang. Li’tya’s products are certified organic and wild harvested Australian botanicals that are combined with ancient Aboriginal healing traditions. devansassociates.com 902.221.8283

Page 114 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

image nails au naturel COLLABORATING WITH DESIGNERS

during fashion weeks allows me the opportunity to see the trends of the upcoming season come to life before they hit the runways. This season, we saw a return to the beautiful nude nail at shows like Kate Spade and Narciso Rodriguez. Always fashion forward, this is one of my favorite looks. We saw everything from a buff, short nail to creamy shades on long, almond shaped nails. Right now, I really love the almond shaped nail, however, it is not about picking a nail shape that is trendy, but rather what looks best with your nail bed. No two hands look the same!

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

In order to achieve the au naturel nails look, grooming is the key. There is no point in applying nail lacquer until the hands and nails are perfectly groomed.

By performing this five-step manicure, you can achieve a nude mani/ pedi for your clients.

1

CLEANSE:

Saturate a piece of cotton with lacquer remover. Place cotton on the nail and press down, covering the entire nail. Hold for 5 s and pull gently forward and off the tip of the nail.

by Deborah Lippmann

2

SHAPE:

3

EXFOLIATE:

Run across the entire nail in one direction—never “saw” back and forth on the tip of the nail.

Remember to look at the hands from every angle. File from each outside edge toward the center of the nail.

Similar to facial skin, the nails need to be exfoliated to achieve a stronger, healthier nail. Using a buffer, buff nails with fabric. This brings the nails to a high gloss and once used, nail lacquer will not adhere.

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4

TREAT:

Apply cuticle remover to all nails. Use a cuticle pusher to gently push the cuticle back. You must go around the cuticle area several times to get a clean cuticle. Wipe clean with a piece of cotton.

Carefully nip any remaining pieces of skin. These are hangnails, and the only pieces of skin that you should nip. Apply a tiny amount of cuticle oil to the base of all nails. You only need to touch the brush lightly to the base of the nail. Massage into cuticle, and then apply a hand moisturizer, followed by nail primer.

5

THE FINISH:

Assess the state of your client’s nails to determine which base coat treatment is appropriate, and apply one coat. Finish with the “right” nude.

For skin with pink undertones, go for something with a pink undertone. For

olive undertones, go for a yellow base/ undertone. If your client has very dark skin, a sheer white is better.

Remove brush from the bottle by pulling it along the back neck of the bottle. You can see the front of the brush this way, and control how much lacquer is on the brush. Set the brush on the back of the center of the nail, approximately a quarter inch from the cuticle. Begin to put pressure on the brush. You will see the lacquer begin to flow out from the tip of the brush.

Gently nudge the brush ever so slightly toward the cuticle, and the lacquer will flow to the cuticle. Next, pull the brush directly forward toward the tip of the nail.

Set the brush on the nail, a bit left of center again, not too close to the cuticle.

Follow the same procedure, pulling the brush forward. Continue to press the brush down so that the bris-

tles spread to the far side of the nail.

Repeat on the right side of the nail.

Finish by gingerly brushing lacquer across the tip of the nail.

Allow all lacquer to dry for a minute or two between coats. This allows the lacquer to dry faster, adhere better and last longer on the nail. Finish with a topcoat. n

Deborah Lippmann is a fashion and celebrity manicurist, and founder of the Deborah Lippmann brand.

Lippmann has collaborated with A-list celebrities in the fashion and entertainment world to create signature nail shades.

Page 116 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

TRENDING THIS FALL...

THE EYES HAVE IT!

photos: Shutterstock.com

by Mary Van ALL ATTENTION IS ON THE EYES THIS FALL. Colors are bold, glistening with metallics and rich, saturated pigments. Eyes are amplified by shades of liquid liner in every tone imaginable. From pastels to neon, in various shades of metallic or the classic black—it truly all comes down to the art of the line.

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 117

image | trending this fall...the eyes have it!

Not only will you see it take different shapes along the lash Not only will you see it take different shapes along the lash line, it will adorn the eyelid, using creative applications in the crease to shape and define the eyes.

This season’s hot new color blocking is a gutsy look from our European friends across the pond—a brilliant mismatch of color. This bold technique uses two to three shades of vibrant color that do not necessarily blend together. So grab your color wheel and do not be shy... there is nothing soft about this look for fall!

So as not to steal focus from the eyes, cheeks whisper soft shades of corals and berry tones.

Lips are sheer and nude or vampy and vixen, depending on the intensity of the eyes.

PALETTE 1

This season’s hot new color blocking is a gutsy look from our European friends across the pond—a brilliant mismatch of color.

PALETTE 1: Ombré lip For the perfect true lip color, mix equal parts of a vitamin E stick and concealer to brush on the lips and conceal the natural lip color. The vitamin E stick moisturizes the lips and creates a slick surface for the color application.

To apply the lip color, use a flat brush with a tapered tip. To create the darkness on the outside, begin by applying lipstick into the corners first and then fade the color in toward the center of the lip, leaving the color barely there. The tip of the brush is used for precision while the flat side is used for blending and coverage. Fade the color slightly up onto the Cupid’s bow. A deep, rich burnt umber lipstick was used on the model. A corresponding loose eye shadow color was applied to set it in place for a velvety finish.

Choose powder that is one to two shades darker than the lipstick color you use. Line only the outer corners and edges of the lips, both top and bottom. Feather in the powder and blend it into the edges of the lipstick. For the center of the lip, a loose, light cocoa shadow was mixed with a bronze metallic to highlight the center of the lip. Keep in mind that as the powder blends in with the lipstick, it will become darker, so be sure to carefully select your powder shade for a smooth transition of color.

To ensure the application is even, tilt the

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image

head both back and forward to check for consistency in the lip lines, both on the bottom lip and on top of the Cupid’s bow. Also check the symmetry between both sides of the upper lip.

TIP: When creating an ombré lip, it is important to use a powder to contour the lips.

When only lipsticks or creamy products are used, they may bleed together and become one color—not ideal for achieving the gradation of color that defines the ombré. To achieve different lip shapes, there are subtle differences in application techniques on the lips. For a more rounded, fuller lip shape, work from the corner of the mouth toward the Cupid’s bow. To create a sharper and steeper lip shape, work from the Cupid’s bow down toward the corner of the mouth.

A mid-tone metallic shimmer was then used to blend both the highlight and contour areas together to create a harmonious look. Highlighting and contouring work in tandem to help accentuate and/or minimize features to enhance the shape of the face.

It is always important to assess the client first. Take into account her face shape and the ultimate final look you want to achieve when deciding where highlighting and contouring will be appropriate.

Radiant skin To create a metallic iridescent glow on the skin, mix one-third parts of a loose honey bronze shimmer mineral powder to two-thirds parts moisturizer in the palm of the hand to warm and blend thoroughly.

Apply evenly to the face using a flat foundation brush for maximum coverage. Working with a dome brush, dust a very light application of loose metallic bronzer over the face to smooth out the texture. This must be applied very sparsely so the skin does not grab too much color.

A honey bronze and apricot shimmer were mixed with terra cotta to achieve this metallic glow.

Using color to contour and highlight the face To contour: A rich, matte copper-bronze color was applied to contour under the cheekbone and around the hairline. It was also applied to both sides of the nose to make it appear thinner. Apply this color to areas of the face to appear slimmer and more defined. Darker, more matte colors and products push features inward.

To highlight: A soft, pale bronze shimmer was applied to the top of the cheekbones, under the arch of the brow and down the center of the nose. (Use this on areas of the face that you want to stand out, as light reflecting products will assist in bringing features forward.)

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 119

PALETTE 2

PALETTE 2: Eyeliner color layering The eyelid is nude, so the emphasis is on the liner. To create this dramatic wing, use a long thin paintbrush, as it is easier to get a precise, smooth wing tip in one fell swoop.

Mix an azure loose eye shadow with a clear liquid liner. Begin at the inner corner of the eyelid and lay the brush tightly to the upper edge of the lash line. Follow the shape to the outer corner, using a flick of the wrist as you pull away at the end.

Next, mix a deeper color such as a cobalt blue loose shadow with a clear liquid liner, and apply only to the outer portion of the eye. To create even more depth on the outer portion, outline the wing with black liquid liner. For the lower lash liner, mix a soft mint green with a clear liquid liner and apply tightly under the lash line. Finally, line the inner rim of the eye with a black pencil to define the eye and make the color pop.

TIP: To enhance the eye shape, begin to taper off the liner application, working toward the inner corner of the eye. Brows are always groomed.

A warm red-brown color was brushed through to fully frame the eyes. Apply a generous amount of black mascara to dramatize the eyes.

PALETTE 3: Face To highlight specific areas, a concealer that is lighter than the foundation was used. The concealer was placed under the eyes in a triangular shape, on the center of the forehead and the chin. It was blended with a flat foundation brush.

Porcelain mineral foundation was applied with a dome brush, layering on lightly and building up to full coverage.

TIP: Mineral foundation looks best when applied in light layers, building up to full coverage. If it is applied in a few thick or heavy applications, it sits on the skin and looks flat.

Brows A brush-on brow gel in blonde was used to lift the brow and set it in place. The brush-on brow gel is used when the brows are thin, yet have a good shape.

Page 120 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

image

PALETTE 3

Eyes A pale pink shimmer cream shadow was applied over the entire eye and blended with a fluff brush. The cream shadow acts as a primer, helping to intensify the color and keep it in place for long lasting wear. A shadow brush was used to apply deep lavender, which was blended into the crease and past the outside corner of the eye.

Liner A midnight blue, almost-black eyeliner pencil was applied to the upper lash line.

Pencil liner is set with a cobalt blue loose shadow that was applied to the upper and lower lash line with a wet eye defining brush, laid flat to create a thick line.

A liquid black liner was applied closely to the lower lash line and connected to the upper liner, giving a dramatic shape to the eye.

Several coats of black mascara were applied just to the upper lashes.

TIP: To get the depth of a liquid liner with a pencil, slightly warm the tip of the liner. Swipe a precision brush or angle eye shadow brush over the liner. Be careful that the liner is even on the brush, so that as it is applied, it will blend smoothly along the rim of the eyelid.

Blush A soft matte pink mineral blush was applied to the cheek area in a triangular shape to soften the square shape of the face.

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Lips A pale neutral pink was applied over the entire lip following the shape of the lip line. A light pink lipstick was then applied over the liner, feathering to the inside edges of the lower lip.

A sheer gloss is applied to the center of the upper and lower lip, feathering to the inside edge.

To finish the application, a matte loose powder is applied with a dome powder brush to set the look and keep the skin matte.

New trends are fresh, fun, easily adaptable— and simply made to be tried! If your client is daring, do not be shy. She craves creativity, adores pushing the boundaries and will appreciate your enthusiasm and expertise every time. If your client is a bit more reserved, take baby steps. Begin with an understated version of the trend. If she is pleased with the results, colors can always be punched up, lines can be made more daring—and she will be more comfortable experimenting in your chair with more new looks the next time! n Mary Van, the founder and CEO of Mineralogie, is a nationally renowned makeup artist and mineral makeup pioneer. Van launched the line in 2003 as a division of her parent company, Demaur Cosmetics. She serves as CEO and president of both companies, and is the hands-on creator, inspiration and quality assurance behind each new signature product and custom color.

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SCHOOLBOY

BROWS Full and Fabulous

by Dena Bruckman

are all the rage! Your clients will want their eyebrows to be fuller and thicker to achieve the new blunt, boyish brow look. The days when everyone sought after highly arched brows are long gone. Trends indicate that the ideal brow has been getting progressively thicker, moving lower and closer to the eye, and the peak of the arch has moved further from the nose, thus resulting in a flatter brow. Years ago, the upward curvature of the brow was considered to be an attractive feminine feature. However, some say women are subconsciously favoring a flatter, straighter, more masculine looking brow, due to the increasing equality of the sexes.

Anti-aging is another theory supporting the new trend of fuller and thicker brows. A full, natural brow is flattering, and may keep your clients looking younger by drawing attention away from age lines or dark, puffy circles under and around the eyes. Full eyebrows communicate youthfulness and health.

Brows age, just like the skin ages, and as your clients get older, their brows will get thinner, especially the ends. In addition, sparse brows can indicate hormonal imbalance or other negative health conditions.

Thicker brows may accentuate eyes, and the eyes may require less makeup.

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photos: Shutterstock.com

BIG, BOLD eyebrows

image | schoolboy brows

How to achieve a thicker, fuller brow Encourage natural hair growth Your clients should let their eyebrows fill in for a minimum of 4 weeks before starting this technique. The desired results may take as long as 4-8 months to achieve.

Only tweeze strays Fill in your client’s arch first (with a pencil or powder) to establish a guideline for hairs they want to keep. Tell your client to only tweeze the hairs that fall outside the line you created.

Advise them to allow the hairs from the front of the brow to the arch to grow longer.

Create a schedule

Advise your client to use a brow highlighter on their brow bone to hide regrowth.

Darken light brows For those clients with fair eyebrows, use a professional brow tint. It will make their eyebrows look fuller.

Consider retailing eyebrow enhancing serums Even when one follows all of the aforementioned recommendations, occasionally the brows do not fill in as desired. Clients may consider an eyebrow enhancing serum.

In addition to discussing a growth plan with your clients, you can help them achieve fuller, thicker looking eyebrows by using makeup.

photos: Shutterstock.com

Encourage your client to commit to a regular tweezing schedule either weekly, biweekly or monthly. Tell your client not to wax or thread their brows during this regrowth phase.

Hide hair regrowth

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 123

image | schoolboy brows

Here is a step-by-step guide on how to use makeup to enhance brows.

Enhance brows with makeup application:

1 2 3 4 5

Purchase tools. Sell your client an eyebrow shaping tool and an angled eyeliner brush.

Brush hair. Use the eyebrow shaping tool to brush your client’s brows out and up, away from the center of their face.

Spas and brow bars that create thick, full brows Shen Beauty, a high-end neighborhood boutique in Brooklyn, NY, is opening a Brow Bar that offers $35 brow and eyelash styling services, for which technicians spend at least 30 min on each client to achieve the best shape for their brows through waxing, tweezing and threading.

The “full and natural” look is preferred.

Apply color. To create a fuller look, use the angled eyeliner brush to apply brow color only to the sparse areas of their brow. Help your client select a brow color that is lighter than their natural hair color.

Smooth the brow. To soften any harsh lines, run the eyebrow shaping tool over your client’s eyebrows once.

Highlight the brow. Use a soft brow highlight underneath the arch of your client’s brow bone to accent the brows.

Brows on Upper 15th in Denver, CO, is a brow bar that offers $20 brow shaping services. A specially trained technician will spend 30 min with clients for their initial visit, and each visit after that will be 15 min. Technicians create a game plan to achieve the client’s fuller and thicker lashes. The client may leave with an eyebrow pencil that matches their brow color to use while the brows are growing in. In addition, the retail lineup includes several eyebrow enhancing serums so clients can expedite the path to achieving fuller, thicker brows.

Dena Bruckman is the marketing director at Grande Naturals, LLC. She graduated from Syracuse University School of Management, and is a licensed esthetician in the state of New York. Bruckman has worked in packaged goods companies, marketing research firms and day spas to establish her background in new product development.

Page 124 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

Kristie Streicher Beauty Bar at Warren-Tricomi in Los Angeles, CA, is a beauty haven offering 45 min eyebrow shaping services, ranging from $85 with a senior specialist to $150 with Kristie Streicher herself. Streicher is known for creating the perfect “feathered brow” shape. Her philosophy is simple: Always work with the natural shape of the eyebrow to render long, full, beautiful brows. n

PUCKER UP The latest Lip Stain by Cryolan, the official sponsor of Face Off, is a color intense, long lasting and smudge proof lip product, says the company. Available in these eight gorgeous shades—Swing, Latin, Jazz, Dance, Gospel, Red, Punk and Pop—they are sure to brighten your clients’ pouts! us.kryolan.com 800.579.6526

Coming this fall is jane iredale’s latest City Nights Collection, a radiant fall makeup inspired by the glamour and energy of a night on the town, says the company. For eyes, a trio of matte pearl, shimmery port wine, toasted caramel shadows and gel eyeliners in flirtatious jewel tones; for lips, a nourishing lipstick and gloss in pigmented shades of plum. janeiredale.com 800.762.1132

SPARKLE PERFECT Cuccio Colour introduces its limited edition Match Maker Kit in Vegas Vixen featuring rhinestone caps. The multi-dimensional glitter in gun metal silver is the perfect accessory for fingers and toes, and the bling covering the cap is a great way to draw attention to the bottle, says the company.

“Spark” the interest of your clients! cuccio.com 800.762.6245

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

CHEEKY MUST Lady Burd’s new Blush Perfect is a highly pigmented, intense color blush that can be used to shade, brighten, enhance and define the shape of your client’s face. The formula glides on soft, resulting in a picture perfect finish, says the company. Available in 10 dazzling color shades. ladyburd.com 800.345.3448

IMAGENEWS

AUTUMN LINE

NAILS, MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS

LNEONLINE.com • Page 125

WEST | CENTRAL | EAST REGIONAL EDUCATION & ONLINE CLASSES

CALENDAR OF EVENTS LEARN ON LOCATION

West

Central

AUGUST 3

AUGUST 24

AUGUST 3

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN. 480.543.1121.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 10 PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 11 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 17 Product Knowledge

by Skin Script Skin Care.

Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121

AUGUST 25 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

EPTEMBER 7AUGUST 4 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 11 Ingredient Master Class for the Clinical Esthetic Professional

by Tecniche.

Arlington Heights, IL. 847.477.1071.

Page 126 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

West Central East International

PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Chicago, IL. (True University).

877.PCA.SKIN. Tecniche Product Knowledge Class

by Tecniche.

Arlington Heights, IL. 847.477.1071.

AUGUST 24 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

San Antonio, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 4 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 12 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Chicago, IL. (True University).

877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 17 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

AUGUST 25

AUGUST 4 - 9

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

San Antonio, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Permanent Makeup 6 Day Training Course

by Beau Institute.

Mount Laurel, NJ. 856.727.1411.

East AUGUST 3 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 10 PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Nashville, TN. 877.PCA.SKIN.

LNEONLINE.com • Page 127

calendar|east|online

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

AUGUST 11 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Nashville, TN. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 17 PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage

by PCA Skin.

New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 18 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

ONLINE EDUCATION

Evening Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

ONGOING

Exploring Intrinsic & Extrinsic Aging

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

A Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Addressing Adolescent Acne

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Alternate Therapies

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities An In-Depth Look at Melasma

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Customizing Daily Care Regimens

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Diminishing Deep Wrinkling

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar

by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST., 12 p.m. CST, 10 a.m. PST. hydropeptide.com/webinars Identifying & Treating Papulopustular Rosacea

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Investigating Impaired Barrier Function

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Laser and Light Therapy

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

Page 128 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

calendar|online

Medical Esthetics

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

Simple Steps to a Booming Business

by PCA Skin.

Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

NaturaLash Level 1 Online Certification Class

by NaturaLash. Online Course.

800.644.1297. naturalash.com/240.html

Targeting Adult Acne

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Product Formulations as a Whole

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms & Subtypes

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Scleroderma

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Shedding Light on UV-induced Hyperpigmentation

by PCA Skin.

Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

The Daily Care Product Overview

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses The Professional Product Overview

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Treating Acne in Skin of Color

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation.

Online Continuing Education.

201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation.

Online Continuing Education.

201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2014 September 7-8 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2014 October 19-20 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2015 March 1-2 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2015 April 26-27 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2015 September 20-21 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2015 October 25-26 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

LNEONLINE.com • Page 129

advertisers’ index

Page Number

Reader Service No.

106............. Bamboo-Fusion....................................................... bamboo-fusion.com........................................................ 267 81............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................ 140 6,75............ Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com....................................................... 139 71............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................ 335 9................. Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... circadia.com................................................................... 101 93............... DermAware............................................................. dermaware.com............................................................. 256 87............... DermaSwiss............................................................. dermaswiss.com............................................................. .245 108............. Dr. Jeff..................................................................... dr-jeff.com...................................................................... .248 2-3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro................................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 39............... GlymedPlus............................................................. glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 69............... GrandeLASH-MD.................................................... grandewholesale.com...................................................... 286 33............... Harmonial.......................................................................harmonial.net................................................................. 281 7................. Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 21-26......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa.......... longbeach.skincareshows.com......................................... ......

34-35......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa.......... philadelphia.skincareshows.com...................................... .....

13............... Lady Burd......................................................................ladyburd.com................................................................. 119 11............... Le Mieux.......................................................................lemieuxcosmetics.com................................................... 294 89............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................lucrece.com.................................................................... .263 41............... Organic 4 Male..............................................................om4men.com................................................................. 315 17............... PCA Skin.......................................................................pcaskin.com................................................................... 110 27............... PFB Vanish.....................................................................PFBVanish.com............................................................... 229 77............... Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................rejuvilab.com.................................................................. 149 86............... Rena Levi........................................................................renaleviskincare.com...................................................... 105 132............. Revitalash......................................................................revitalash.com................................................................ 346 95............... RA for Men............................................................... ramethod.com................................................................ 190 8................. Rubber Ducky Sunscreen...............................................rubberduckysunscreen.com............................................ 317 15............... Sothys...................................................................... sothys-usa.com............................................................... 306 31............... Tizo.......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................ 305 5................. UltraLuxe........................................................................ultraluxeskincare.com..................................................... 116 19............... Vital Assist Skin Care......................................................vitalassist.com................................................................ 237

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