Page 1

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

July 2014

$7.50


Boldijarre Koronczay, President Éminence Organic Skin Care “As a skin care ingredient maintaining the potency of Vitamin C is a challenge. We have formulated an exclusive blend of stabilized Vitamin C ingredients that do not degrade or lose their antioxidant benefits once exposed to oxygen, providing the most powerful anti-aging results.â€?

Reduces fine lines and wrinkles Brightens skin and lightens dark spots Clarifies and evens complexion Prevents inflammation to visibly calm skin


Antioxidant Super Food for the Skin 47% reduction in free radical damage in just 3 hours!*

Super foods become super skin care ingredients to nourish and rescue the skin with a potent dose of stabilized Vitamins C+E for advanced age prevention and correction.

If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and BiodynamicŽ skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com. ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE PROVIDER OF PREMIUM SKIN C ARE * as evaluated by the reduction in UV induced ROS in human ex vivo skin after 3 hour application Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card


CONTENTS JULY 2 0 1 4

V o lum e 2 9

N u m be r 7

organic & wellness

skin

Restore Balance with Probiotic Skin Care 28 The Harisienne Method34 Food for Thought 42 Global Gimmicks 48 Skin News 53

The Great Outdoors 97 Wisdom from the Land100 The Wind of Life105 Organic & Wellness News 110

Wisdom From the Land Native American inspired treatments page 100

The Color of Sweat

spa

the scoop on infrared saunas page 60

LNE & Spa Awards 54 The Color of Sweat60 Spa News

image 65

lash out guide

The Business of Lashes 68 Burning Questions About Extensions72 Create the Ultimate Lash Menu 74 Mink, Silk, Human Hair or Synthetic Lashes 78 Fabu-Lash Photo Feature 80

Lash Out Guide page 67

GUIDE

Thinking of creating, revamping or renewing your lash bar? Don't hold back! Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa's Lash Out Guide walks you through all the steps…

business

Spa Pricing for Profit 82 If You Build It, They Will Come...86 Savvy Spa Marketing with YouTube 90 Biz News 96

Five Minutes and Five Products to Fabulous The Wave Rave  113 Highlighting and Contouring117 Calendar Girl 120 Image News 124

111

The Wave Rave lash perming page 113

extras

From the Editor Spa of the Month: Aman Spa at Amangiri, Canyon Point, UT  Recap: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas, TX Calendar of Events Ad Index

6 10

24 126 130

Cover

Model: Betty Kourakou Picture and makeup: Atelier de Beauté - Data Type s.a.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

Page 4 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


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editor

Ah, July. A month marked by long, sunny days and clear, starry nights. For me, this is one of the most beautiful months of the year, making it the perfect time to spotlight one of the trendiest forms of beauty enhancement today—lashes! Whether you are thinking of creating, revamping or renewing your lash bar, our Lash Out Guide on page 67 walks you through all the steps, from “The Business of Lashes,” “Burning Questions About Extensions,” “Create the Ultimate Lash Menu,” and “Mink, Silk, Human Hair or Synthetic Lashes: What is the Difference?” Also learn about all the different techniques for lash perming in “The Wave Rave” on page 113. Another highlight in this month’s issue is the annual LNE & Spa Awards. “Our Industry’s Finest” luxury spa, day spa, wellness spa, medical spa and international spa winners for 2014 are featured on page 54. Learn about how certain ingredients in skin care can help or hurt in “Restore Balance with Probiotic Skin Care” on page 28, as well as “Food for Thought” on page 42. “The Color of Sweat” on page 60 offers an in-depth look at infrared saunas, which are on the rise in American spas. Get valuable insight on how to boost the visibility of your business with “Savvy Spa Marketing with YouTube” on page 90. Learn about truly unique types of treatments to incorporate into your service menu in “Wisdom from the Land” on page 100. This month marks a significant transition for Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa as we introduce digital subscriptions. Wherever your travels may take you this summer, remember that the latest edition is always right at your fingertips at LNEONLINE.com! As you unwind and take some time to relax in the coming months, enjoy this edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, and be inspired to integrate some fresh new concepts into your business. n

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com REV042314

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card

Page 6 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


Better Peptides Better Results Now with over 60 peptides, growth factors, and botanical stem cells, HydroPeptide celebrates its 10th anniversary with a new look and improved formulations. See what makes HydroPeptide the innovative authority in peptide skin care.

A NEW LOOK AND A NEW AWARD. “Thanks to all of you, our friends and fans. HydroPeptide’s Power Serum is the winner of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques’s Spa Best Award for Best Serum. Our serum restores a silky and elastic texture to skin with a blend of volumizing peptides, growth factor activators and alpha lipoic acid.”

In a 6 week study

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BEFORE

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SKIN CARE TIP: Look younger in 10 minutes - apply Power Serum before applying HydroPeptide’s Purifying Mask. Leave our Purifying Mask on for 7-10 minutes. After removing the mask, follow with another Power Serum

AFTER

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application and finish with your favorite HydroPeptide moisturizer for instant visible results.

WWW.HYDROPEPTIDE.COM Call now to request samples for your day spa, resort spa, medi spa, or doctors office. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #278 on reader service card

800.932.9873


®

3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Art Director Sacha Smith sacha@lneonline.com

CAVIAR & CARAT PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIA DEL RIO

Associate Editor Nathalie Gouillou nathalie@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Fougere ache@lneonline.com Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Mayli Tenorio mayli@lneonline.com

Complete Anti-Aging Facial Ampule it up…anti-aging goes global. Rich, indulgent and nourishing, this anti-aging powerhouse is ideal pre-event, as a luxurious treat or as part of a regular restorative regimen. Tried-and-true Old World indulgences are combined with New World innovations to maximize results. RECEIVE A FREE PRODUCT WHEN YOU PURCHASE THE CAVIAR & CARAT WHOLESALE KIT AND 3 RETAIL PRODUCTS. OFFER VALID THROUGH JULY 31, 2014

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International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

Contributors Carrie-Ann Buckingham Kris Campbell Caroline Canetti Michelle Goldsmith Nathalie Gouillou Laura D. Kain

Tim Maurer Sophie Meyer Jamie Palmer, R.N. Robert Sachs Priscilla Saraceno Louis Silberman

Aidan C. Shaw Olivia Smalley Dori Soukup David Suzuki Shawn Towne Amanda Clinton Winter

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card

Page 8 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


SPA

OF THE MONTH

Spiritual desert retreat aman spa at Amangiri Canyon Point, UT by Amanda Clinton Winter

As if a natural extension of the dramatic mountains, or a formation that had suddenly arisen from the arid land, Amangiri—a combination of the Sanskrit word for peace, aman, and the local Native American word for mountain, giri (thus “peaceful mountain”)—is a unique resort that blends in with the landscape and complements its surroundings. Nestled in a protected valley at the heart of Canyon Point, UT—the region is also known as the Four Corners, where the states of Utah, Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado meet—the resort and its Aman Spa sit on 243 hectares for a spacious yet intimate setting, where the sweeping views of the colorful stratified rocks can be experienced year round.

With less than a decade of operation—Aman­ giri was launched in 2009—the resort and spa has swept dozens of awards, making the Condé Nast Traveler Gold List in 2013 and 2014, as well as being named a Travel + Leisure USA Best Resort 2011, among others. With a simple architectural design that embraces the natural scenery, Amangiri offers a unique form of hush luxury that allows guests to truly receive the energy of the land while honoring the splendid rock formations. With a staff to guest ratio of three to one, Amangiri ensures that every single one of their visitors’ wishes and needs is met. The resort is built around the main swimming pool, which embraces a natural rock escarpment. continues

Page 10 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #294


All of the spa’s journeys begin with the Native American ritual of smudging, where sage or sweet grass is burned to clear negative energy and allow for healing to take place. King-sized daybeds lying on small terraces that extend into the pool and seemingly float—as well as sun-loungers—surround the tranquil water along the pool’s deck. A hot tub sits at the base of a rock wall, close to the pool’s terrace and adjacent to the Campfire Pavilion that is warmed by a fire during winter—an inviting nook for relaxation. The 25,000 sq ft Aman Spa at Amangiri is a vast complex of stone, water features and streams of light that offer a number of unique treatment venues. A destination unto itself, it provides a serene setting for relaxation and rejuvenation.

The entrance is reminiscent of nearby slot canyons and opens into an intimate reception and lounge area featuring a glass tiled, sky-lit reflection pool and a central fireplace. The spa menu has been created to reflect elements of Navajo culture and healing traditions. Aman Spa treatments are designed to restore hozho, which in Navajo means “beauty, harmony, balance and health.” All of the spa’s journeys begin with the Native American ritual of smudging, where sage or sweet grass is burned to clear negative energy and allow for healing to take place. Guests can indulge in the Desert Dream, a journey of expanding consciousness that begins with a combination of cranial sacral massage and floatation therapy, which prepares the guest for a deep relaxing aromatherapy massage (135 min, $375). The Desert Rain also incorporates floatation therapy but combines it with a full body lavender exfoliation and massage (135 min, $375). The continues

Page 12 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


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spa of the month|aman spa at amangiri

A variety of massages, including customized, hot stone, Thai and mother-tobe are also available for 60 to 90 min, starting at $160. Desert Calm is designed to hydrate and soothe the body and mind to combat the drying effect of the desert climate, where a full body exfoliation is followed by a body wrap in red Sedona clay and a facial that incorporates acupressure (120 min, $350). Finally, Desert Cleanse gives the body a circulatory boost with dry brushing followed by a body wrap of nutrient-enriched mud and a foot massage. A steam shower and a manual lymphatic drainage massage complete this quest (120 min, $350). A variety of massages, including customized, hot stone, Thai and mother-to-be are also available for 60 to 90 min, starting at $160. In the Personalized Massage, guests can discuss their specific needs and give in to the therapist’s expertise who combines their knowledge, technique and intuition to provide exclusive therapeutic work (60/90 min, $160/$240). Guests can also choose from an array of wraps and body polishes, facials, hand and foot treatments. The continues

AMANGIRI 1 Kayenta Road Canyon Point, UT 435.675.3999 amanresorts.com/amangiri/resort.aspx AMANGIRI FACTS: Launched: 2009 Owned by Aman Resorts (founded by Adrian Zecha) FACILITY: • 34 suites • Aman Spa: Water Pavilion—one steam room, one dry sauna, one cold plunge pool, five treatment rooms, two outdoor treatment terraces. One fitness center, one yoga pavilion, the Amangiri salon and a floatation room. PRODUCT LINE USED AND RETAILED: Aman Spa’s own signature line of skin and body care, which consists of chemical-free products made with natural ingredients. SIGNATURE TREATMENT: Their Desert spa journeys—Desert Dream, Desert Calm, Desert Cleanse and Desert Rain. * The Aman Spa menu is reviewed yearly

Page 14 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


Skin Care for life inside and out

SkinCare

That Fits EVERY client EVERY business.

Josette Eales Bio-Therapeutic Ambassador

info@bio-therapeutic.com REV031314

bio-therapeutic.com

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800.971.6259


PRESENTED BY


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LONG BEACH, CA SEPTEMBER 7 & 8, 2014 Long Beach Convention Center

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• General Session Lectures and Demos • Wellness Seminar NEW • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Spa Director Symposium NEW • Image Seminars

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spa of the month|aman spa at amangiri

Cranial Sacral Therapy improves the functioning of the central nervous system and is recommended for migraines, back pain and stress-related issues. The therapist uses subtle pressure

A key feature of the spa is the Water Pavilion, where guests enter via a large reception area complete with fireplace and lounge seating. and a series of holds to heighten the guest’s internal awareness and activate the body’s innate ability to heal (60/90min, $160/$240). The Hot and Cold Stone Facial, which helps restore moisture and beauty to the face after exposure to the harsh dry air of the desert, con-

sists of hot stones used as an extension of the therapist’s hands to massage the muscles of the shoulders, neck and face. Cold stones are then glided across the face to stimulate the lymphatic system followed by an exfoliation, facial cleanse and mask. Arms, legs and shoulders are massaged with hot stones and oils while the face absorbs the minerals (60/90 min, $160/$240). The Amangiri Facial features a free-style holistic massage using soothing and rhythmic strokes to relax with the use of natural ingredients that refresh and hydrate the skin (60 min, $160; 90 min, includes a foot massage, $240). For guests looking for more unique bodywork, Aman Spa features the Hozho Tandem Massage, where two therapists work together to induce a deep state of relaxation (60 min, $320). continues

Page 18 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


Prevents: Skin Aging Dark Spots Lines Wrinkles

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Age Defying Fusion

For information & samples 800.332.5536 tizofusion.com

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spa of the month|aman spa at amangiri

A key feature of the spa is the Water Pavilion, where guests enter via a large reception area complete with a fireplace and lounge seating. Large wooden doors pivot to the outdoors to reveal a space that contains a stone-lined pool with a desert view. Terraces rise on three sides, blending with the rock face and offering cushioned seating. Guests can make use of the Water Pavilion’s steam room, dry sauna and cold plunge pool, or they can indulge in any of the five walnut-lined, candle-lit treatment rooms—double or single—each featuring a dressing and treatment area, a steam shower, bathroom and music system. Two outdoor treatment terraces with spectacular views of the mesas are also available. continues

Page 20 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


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COME LASH OUT WITH US AT UPCOMING SHOWS!

Find us at Face & Body at the McEnery Convention Center in San Jose, CA on August 24 - 25 at Booth #1117.


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The Aman Spa also features a fitness center equipped with the latest machinery; a Yoga Pavilion with bamboo flooring, where guests can enjoy private lessons or join a scheduled class; the Amangiri Salon where manicures and pedicures are provided; and the Floatation Room (an important component of the spa as it features in many of the treatments), where floatation and color therapies bring guests to a meditative experience. Aside from being pampered at the spa, guests can revel in the great outdoors either through on-property hiking trails, which are well marked, maintained and easily accessible from the resort, or by exploring the region with expert archaeologists, geologists and naturalists on guided hikes or horseback rides. Unlike any other destination and truly an extension of the majestic rock formations, Amangiri, just like its name indicates, is a peaceful mountain, where guests are invited to revel in meditation and contemplation, to reflect and reconnect with themselves and the elements. n photos courtesy of Aman Resorts Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, MA and a master’s degree in Public Relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #166 on reader service card

Page 22 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


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Call PCA SKIN today at 877.PCA.PEEL [722.7335], visit pcaskin.com or email education@pcaskin.com.

Scan here to access a list of our upcoming classes. http://www.pcaskin.com/greatnessbeginshere/classes.html Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #110 on reader service card


Hats off!

The 2014 International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Dallas, TX

by Nathalie Gouillou

Thousands and thousands of attendees eagerly packed their minds and suitcases with the best brands—advice and secrets—that the champions of skin care, esthetics and wellness had to offer at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa held in Dallas, TX, on May 4 and 5. “This was the best show of the year so far!” said Hannah Duncan, co-owner at Aesthetics Ambassadors. “Our booth was not only busy all day long but the leads were amazing! We wrote

“The Texas show was an amazing event,” said B. Kamins Southwest Account Executive Tiffany Abercrombie. “The estheticians were engaged, enthusiastic and eager to learn, new and experienced.”

almost 200 orders, and have already received re-orders in the first week after the show!” Participants had an array of lectures, demonstrations, workshops and seminars to pick from, covering every possible area of interest and hosted by the very best in their fields. “The Texas show was an amazing event,” said B. Kamins Southwest Account Executive Tiffany Abercrombie. “The estheticians were engaged, enthusiastic and eager to learn, new and experienced.” Lauren Elvington, owner of Peace and Energy Spa in Mansfield, TX, and an esthetician for 8 years can attest to that. Not only did she thoroughly enjoy her time at the show, she also said she found the classes she attended to be very helpful, adding that she would “definitely be returning” to next year’s congress. Julie Puccio, president of Bella Nova Day Spa and Salon in Houston, TX, agrees. “I have attended the show in Arlington for 8 straight years. Every year I find something that drives revenue,” she

Page 24 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


registration

General Session stage

Will Strunk, congress host

M’lis Company

Clarisonic booth

view of show floor

FarmHouse Fresh booth

Dermatude booth

said. “I find the classes very informative […]. I am very grateful to have an opportunity to attend the show every year.” The event kicked off with inviting words from Will Strunk, Dermascope’s publisher, who welcomed attendees—greeted at the General Session with goodies from PCA Skin and GlyMed Plus. Ruth Hardee, founder of Ashiatsu Oriental Bar Therapy®, shared the benefits of providing barefoot massage before leaving the floor to Laura Cooksey—an expert in skin care—who gave spa professionals tips on how to manage clients. Cheryl Staurowsky, a PCA advanced educator, tutored attendees on how to minimize the fear that consumers often have with certain skin treatments such as peels, while Annie Mayo, a notable makeup artist, demonstrated a picture perfect makeup application. Licensed massage therapist Gloria Coppola motivated practitioners with the spiritual Hawaiian face and neck treatments Lomi Lomi has to offer. July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Cheryl Staurowsky, a PCA advanced educator, tutored attendees on how to minimize the fear that consumers often have with certain skin treatments such as peels, while Annie Mayo, a notable makeup artist, demonstrated a picture perfect makeup application. Director of education for Sugar Streak Heather Wilson enlightened listeners with her secrets on body sugaring, while successful spa entrepreneurs Monica Norman, owner of Spa Esoteric in McKinney, TX, Luane McWhorter—multiple business owner and operator, including the Grand Spa in Dallas, TX—and Yelena Krut of the Red Door Spa in Plano, TX, closed the General Session with tales of their paths to success. continues lneonline.com • Page 25


Dead Sea Premiere booth

PhotoMedex booth

Cosmetiques France Laure booth

Jane Iredale booth

Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts booth

Christine Heathman workshop

Foreo booth

Aesthetic Ambassadors booth

Jindilli, Jeremy Lovett and Morgan Roy

“We love this show. We are able to connect with so many of our spa partners and introduce our line to new spas,” said FarmHouse Fresh Founder and President Shannon McLinden. “The 2014 Dallas International Congress was fantastic,” says GlyMed Plus CEO and President Christine Heathman. “It was organized and well marketed to the skin care professionals and decision makers of spas, skin clinics and medical facilities. As the CEO of GlyMed Plus I was extremely pleased with the attendance. Thank you for a super congress and we will be attending again next year.”

Amidst the bustling two days, the nearly 300 exhibitors who were present at the congress— hosted by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines—got a welcome break with the popular annual barbeque celebration that had them show off their dancing skills while networking. “This is my third year in a row attending this heel clicking event, he-haw!” said Grande Natural CEO Alicia Grande of the annual party. “We are glad we attended,” said Morgan Roy, managing director at Jindilli. “It was a taste of true southern hospitality, and for a few guys like us from the down under South Australia it was truly a treat! Cannot wait for next year!” There is nothing like tasty food, spirited music and quality friends to enliven any festivity—it does goodness for the body and mind. And when that party happens to be packed with the worldwide leaders in beauty and wellness, then one can only say that it is “sweeter than stolen honey!”

Page 26 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


the international congress of esthetics and spa

Lumavera booth, Mary Toukan and David Vargas

PCA booth

Éminence booth

Ultraluxe booth

DermaQuest booth

Hanna Issul booth: (left to right) Marsha Sharp, Myong Chong and Sohui Moon

Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare booth

Jenny Hurley, Rodolphe Legrand, Amy Austein, Danni Boucher and Sherihan Musa

“We love this show. We are able to connect with so many of our spa partners and introduce our line to new spas,” said FarmHouse Fresh Founder and President Shannon McLinden. “The floor is busy and everyone is excited about the variety of classes and education.” Le Mieux Cosmetics’ founder Janel Luu shared McLinden’s enthusiasm about the congress. “The show was a great way to connect with professionals who seemed really excited about expanding their knowledge of product technology,” Luu said. “The overall atmosphere was very warm and friendly—absolutely perfect for an industry that focuses on customer care.” Do not miss out on this opportunity to mingle, learn and share—and show off your square dancing skills—with the giants of this industry, and join us next year on April 26 and 27, 2015 at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Arlington! n July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines cosponsor four International Congress of Esthetics and Spa educational conferences/ trade shows annually. Upcoming dates for 2014: Long Beach, CA, September 7-8 and Philadelphia, PA, October 19-20. Dates for 2015 conferences: Miami Beach, FL, March 1-2; Arlington, TX, April 26-27; Long Beach, CA, September 20-21; Philadelphia, PA, October 25-26. Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Email her at nathalie@lneonline.com.

“The show was a great way to connect with professionals who seemed really excited about expanding their knowledge of product technology,” Luu said.

Follow The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa on: TM

lneonline.com • Page 27


skin

restore balance with probiotic skin care

At the Pur Nourish Organic Studio in Scottsdale, AZ, clients can receive the Clear Skin Probiotic Facial that blends probiotic actives with prebiotic nutrients (75 min, $95). “The result is a scientifically advanced treatment that provides long-term benefits far greater than the temporary cover-ups offered by traditional facial treatments,” explains owner Abbie Major, a licensed esthetician, natural wellness skin therapist and coach. “Incorporating probiotics actives into my facial treatments is a very different approach to traditional acne treatments.” Emerald Springs Spa in Lancaster, PA, recommends their probiotic-rich Acne Clinical Treatment to those who wish to clear breakouts and skin congestion and normalize skin. Formulated with BHAs, AHAs and probiotics, the treatment detoxifies skin and controls acne (single 60 min session, $125; five sessions, $563). This facial also revitalizes fatigued, stressed and dull skin.

It was once thought that all bacteria were harmful, but with modern science we now know better. Many people take probiotics to help maintain healthy gut flora, which improves one’s immunity. But what about using bacteria to improve the skin? People go to great lengths to rid their skin of bacteria with anti-bacterial face soaps, peroxide based solutions and even prescriptive antibiotics. This approach removes harmful bacteria on the skin, but it also removes the beneficial bacteria. Around 1,000 different types of bacteria are estimated to be on the skin. Some of them can be harmful by causing infection, but most are beneficial and help improve the immune system. The medical definition of probiotic is: A preparation (as a dietary supplement) containing live bacteria (as lactobacilli) that is taken orally to restore beneficial bacteria to the body; also: a bacterium in such a preparation. Today, many people are aware that probiotics can be found in sources like Greek yogurt and supplements. However the benefits of probiotics can be found beyond the dairy case and vitamin shelves. Topical probiotics have been shown to enhance the skin’s natural defense barriers, as well as increase immune responses.1 Immunity is important not just for fighting infection but for overall skin function, including the production of collagen. Certain strains of lactic acid bacteria have been shown to modulate growth factor production.2 It seems that topical probiotics can benefit any skin type. Whether you are treating aging skin, acneic or sensitive skin, probiotics have been shown

to help. They improve barrier function, decrease inflammation, activate immunity, decrease transepidermal water loss and help improve skin resistance. Incorporating them into your professional treatments is easy, and can be performed on any skin with an intact barrier. Improved barrier function benefits all skin conditions, even aging skin. But acne, rosacea and reactive skin have been studied more widely, and the topical benefits of probiotic use have been proven. As the skin care industry focuses on P. acnes in treating acneic skin, most topical probiotic research is centered on this skin condition. Maintaining healthy bacteria on the skin has been shown to decrease levels of P. acnes, and can be seen as a healthier alternative to stripping the barrier with harsh ingredients. Testing has shown the use of topical probiotics to be an effective treatment, as well as preventative for acne. This is due to increased ceramide production, increased immune function and improved barrier health, leading to faster healing and clearing of acne.3 Inflammation is common in most skin conditions, and can magnify the effects of acne, rosacea and hyperpigmentation. The topical application of probiotics decreases inflammation in the skin, and has even helped lessen reactivity in skin.4 Some forms of dermatitis have also been shown to benefit due to the increased immune function in the skin.5 The reduction of inflammation helps rosacea sufferers and reduces their sensitivity. It also reduces the possibility of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation often associated with acne. Even in sensitive continues

Page 28 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014

photo: Picsfive/Shutterstock.com

by Jamie Palmer, R.N.


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skin|probiotic skin care restores skin’s balance

and highly reactive skin, its resistance improved, demonstrating enhanced skin health and immunity.6 Hence, regardless of which condition your client’s skin is suffering from, probiotics have been shown to provide benefits. Since the bacterial colonies that we want to promote with probiotics are on the surface of the skin, deeper penetra-

tion is not necessary to get their benefits. There are many products on the market that contain probiotics, from cleansers to serums. Dermatologists recommend keeping probiotics on the surface of the skin, so products can be added as a finishing treatment to a facial treatment. This also allows the beneficial bacteria more time to work its magic. n

References: 1. Al-Ghazzewi, F.H., & Tester, R.F. (2014). Impact of prebiotics and probiotics on skin health. Benef Microbes, 5 (2), 99-107. doi: 10.3920/BM2013.0040 2. Guéniche, A., Philippe, B., Ovigne, J.M., Kermici, M., Courchay, G., Chevalier, V., … Castiel-Higounenc, I. (2009). Bifidobacterium longum lysate, a new ingredient for reactive skin. 2009 Experimental Dermatology, 19, e1–e8. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2009.00932.x 3. Bowe W.P., & Logan, A.C. (2011). Acne vulgaris, probiotics and the gutbrain-skin axis - back to the future? Gut Pathog, 3:1. doi: 10.1186/1757-4749-3-1 4. Guéniche, A., Philippe, B., Ovigne, J.M., Kermici, M., Courchay, G., Chevalier, V., … Castiel-Higounenc, I. (2009). Bifidobacterium longum lysate, a new ingredient for reactive skin. 2009 Experimental Dermatology, 19, e1–e8. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2009.00932.x 5. Guéniche, A., Benyacoub, J., Philippe, D., Bastien, P., Kusy, N., Breton, L., … Castiel-Higounenc, I. (2010). Lactobacillus paracasei CNCM I-2116 (ST11) inhibits substance P-induced skin inflammation and accelerates skin barrier function recovery in vitro. Eur J Dermatol, 20 (6), 731-7. doi: 10.1684/ejd.2010.1108 6. Guéniche, A., Philippe, B., Ovigne, J.M., Kermici, M., Courchay, G., Chevalier, V., … Castiel-Higounenc, I. (2009). Bifidobacterium longum lysate, a new ingredient for reactive skin. 2009 Experimental Dermatology, 19, e1–e8. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2009.00932.x

Jamie Palmer, R.N. is a registered nurse in the state of Colorado, and has worked as a peri-anesthesia nurse providing patient education and care for Magnet Status Hospitals. She has also been a research nurse, focusing on metabolic syndrome with University of Colorado Denver. To extend her knowledge and practice into the esthetic arena, Palmer received certification as a nurse injector for Botox and fillers. Currently, she is a corporate educator for Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #318 on reader service card

Page 30 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


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sting-free acupuncture You are invited to a preview of the Harisienne method, a completely unprecedented and revolutionary new procedure for acupuncture that does not sting. This perfect, subtle combination of esthetics and acupuncture is very useful to all estheticians who want to offer a service worthy of a lifting by acupuncture without breaking the skin. This relevant creation was born from the fertile imagination of a young Japanese esthetician and acupuncturist, Akemi Mitsumoto.

The Harisienne idea This massage is mainly centered on the scalp and facial muscles. The Tou-Gan-Sei-Bi concept: Tou (the head); Gan (the face); Sei (improvement); Bi (beauty). This is the delicate stimulation of all 31 facial and scalp muscles, namely the six scalp muscles, including essential temporal muscles and the 25 facial muscles. In an era that favors immediate results, lasting effects and fundamental improvement, the Harisienne method is also an extremely effective treatment. While touring the salons, acupuncture clinics and hospitals of 35 countries around the world, Mitsumoto asked questions to find out why the speed of aging, or the displeasure of aging, also varies in accordance with nationality. Among the differences of skin, skeleton, language, pronunciation and climate that are observed, she searched for what is significant to solve the common effects connected to the inevitable esthetic displeasures such as spots, puffiness and loose skin. 4

By Sophie Meyer

Page 34 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


photo: Image Source/Getty Images

The harisienne method

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 35


skin

In order to communicate, humans are the only animals that have facial muscles that allow the formation of delicate facial expressions. The six scalp muscles, in continuity with the face, resist gravity. However, those muscles also lose flexibility and become stiff, resulting in a loss of mobility following stiffening of the muscles. The pumping role of blood and lymphatic vessels is likewise reduced. Recently, the use of smartphones has spread, and the eyes are increasingly being abused. A shift is occurring from an era of manual labor to an era of mental labor. The result is that the scalp has become stiff in many people. In addition, the Western skull being smaller, the temporal muscles—which are found on each side of the head—are also thinner than those of Asians. The concept of Tou-Gan-Sei-Bi allows results with the face, lifting the delicate stimulation of all 31 scalp and facial muscles. Thus, the combination of original acupuncture that does not sting and the Harisienne massage technique on different facial and scalp muscles stimulates and repairs the skin at the same time. As muscle repair is stimulated, the satellite cells that make up the muscles are activated, which restores flexibility. This results in a fundamental decrease in sagging, relaxation of facial lines or nasolabial folds.

In the modern world, many people are very busy, both working and managing their homes. In this context, we are in an era where everyone wants to get beautiful in a limited time with immediate results and lasting effects to finally obtain fundamental improvements. Thanks to her experience abroad, Mitsumoto has been able to deepen her research of significant points to obtain good results. She understands that to have immediate results, lasting effects and fundamental improvement, it is essential to work on the facial and scalp muscles, since there is continuity between the face and the scalp.

Mitsumoto and her team have developed two original accessories: “Eiffel Douce,” an acupuncture needle that does not sting, sharpened to 0.7 mm, and a 2 mm ball. “Fond Douce,” a second stimulation tool, which is flatter and specially flared for drainage.

The difference between the Harisienne method and other therapies • This method is an original form of acupuncture that does not sting. • It creates the sensation that one is touching the essential acupuncture points, thanks to an original stimulation technique using massage and acupuncture that does not sting. • The results are visible thanks to the Tou-Gan-Sei-Bi concept. continues

Page 36 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014

photo: Image Source/Getty Images

The Harisienne method relaxes all the rigidities of the scalp and the face, and creates a lift-up effect. It allows precise relaxation of 31 different scalp and facial muscles.

The two original accessories of the Harisienne method


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skin|the harisienne method

Characteristics of the Harisienne method • The Harisienne method relaxes all the rigidities of the scalp and the face, and creates a lift-up effect. It allows precise relaxation of 31 different scalp and facial muscles. • It improves the appearance of age spots and radiance. This approach consists of coating with oil in order to increase cell metabolism, while delicately stimulating the areas where metabolism is slowed by the stiffening of the muscles, located under the spots. Metabolism is

It provides a new experience. In combining esthetic massage and acupuncture that does not sting, the client experiences a unique sensation on the acupuncture points for whatever area is touched. also slowed in areas by drying from poor circulation of the sebaceous glands. • It has a clear drainage action. It includes many massages that eliminate impurities, and gives an appearance of general transparence. • It accentuates the penetration of active ingredients. While loosening the stiffness—from the surface of the skin to the deep muscles—it softens the skin and favors the penetration of active ingredients contained in different cosmetic products. • It provides a new experience. In combining esthetic massage and acupuncture that does not sting, the client experiences a unique sensation on the acupuncture points for whatever area is touched.

Why develop the Harisienne method— acupuncture that does not sting? With equal consideration of two national skills—the esthetics of France and the acupuncture of Japan, each having advantages and drawbacks—Mitsumoto thought it was possible to combine them, and proposed a highly satisfying technology that takes advantage of both techniques.

Preparing for the Harisienne method Before the session, two Traditional Chinese Medicine exams should be performed: • First, feel the client’s pulse. • Second, do a tongue exam. These exams can also inform us about the condition of the body, investigate the yin and yang equilibrium and help us determine the condition of the internal organs. Lead into the session by performing moxibustion therapy using the pure Asian technique, depending on the physical condition of your clients. Then follow with a Harisienne massage, where each maneuver corresponds to an objective. continues

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Page 38 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


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Complete facial drainage with Fond Douce, which improves elimination. Provide double acupressure with Eiffel Douce and the esthetician’s fingers. This stimulates 41 facial acupuncture points. Massage delicately, relaxing the 25 facial muscles and six scalp muscles. Pinching with Eiffel Douce and the esthetician’s fingers delicately stimulates the forehead muscles connected to relaxation of the skin around the eyes, spots on the eyelids and wrinkles between the eyebrows. Stretching with Eiffel Douce and the esthetician’s fingers eliminates impurities of the cheekbone lines and lifts the cheeks. Fanning reduces nasolabial folds. Pressing stimulates all the facial muscles and the dermal collagen. Pointed vibrations facilitate elimination of impurities and stimulate collagen production. Smoothing with two Eiffel Douces eliminates impurities around the cheeks and eyes. Work with Fond Douce. This eliminates remaining impurities due to the delicate stimulation carried out during Step 9, which has rendered the blood and lymphatic vessels more supple.

5 6 7 8 9 10

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Perform double acupressure on the scalp with Eiffel Douce and the esthetician’s fingers. This stimulates 52 scalp acupuncture points. Friction massage delicately relaxes six scalp muscles.

Conclusion The Harisienne method creates an apt and particularly interesting alternative for all estheticians wanting to propose an esthetic alternative to lifting by acupuncture. It is formidably effective and highly appreciated by the growing customer base of the institute by the same name located in Tokyo, and skillfully directed by Akemi Mitsumoto and her sister Michiko. n

For more information on the Harisienne technique and the tools used, Akemi and Michiko Mitsumoto can be reached at labor_of_love@hotmail.com. Sophie Meyer is an esthetician, international spa specialist and instructor. She teaches advanced techniques to esthetic instructors in the French education system. Meyer has created exclusive and innovative protocols for several international cosmetics laboratories. She can be reached at sophie.meyer@esthetique-consulting.com.

Page 40 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


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Page 42 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


skin

food for thought gluten-free facials and skin care

They may sound like rather sobering names: Cyclodextrin, Avena Sativa, Triticum Vulgare Starch, and for some, these are just that—scary. Yet these are in fact products of common foods, bread, pizza and pasta that many of us crave. But they have also become the culprits of one of the latest afflictions worldwide—gluten intolerance. Gluten is a protein found in grains such as wheat, barley, rye and a hybrid of rye and wheat (triticale). While for many people these are simple nutrients, for others they can wreak havoc in their lives, compelling the body to attack and destroy itself little by little. Why do these foods matter to you as a skin care professional? Because gluten sensitivity is not only a matter of what people put in their mouths, but also what they put on their skin—it turns out that grains where gluten is found are commonly used for cosmetics, lotions and other beauty products.

images: istockphoto.com

The spread of the gluten ban

by Kris Campbell

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

More and more people are now finding that they have some sensitivity to gluten and are opting for a gluten-free diet, while others are ridding gluten from their lives completely. That may mean no more salon or spa treatments, especially facials—because the products come so close to the mouth—or purchase of beauty products, unless these are clearly gluten-free. According to the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness, the main organization that brings attention to the gluten intolerant disease known as celiac disease—gluten causes the immune system to damage the small intestine and prevent proper absorption of essential nutrients— one in 133 Americans suffers from the condition. continues

lneonline.com • Page 43


skin|food for thought

Gluten intolerance has been reported to cause rashes, inflammation and blisters on the skin.

Salons and spas that offer gluten-free treatments FACES Mobile Spa in San Francisco, CA Gluten-free Sensi-Facial with consultation for those with gluten sensitivity or allergy Facial (60 min, $110; 90 min, $145) Back Facial (60 min, $125; 90 min, $165) Atmosphere Day Spa in Baltimore, MD Passion Facial Peel to clean, purify and protect (30 min, $75) Kasia Organic Salon in Minneapolis, MN Skin Brightener Mask to treat sensitive skin and rosacea (60 min, $85) Clinical Aesthetician for Hormone & Anti-Aging Center in Albuquerque, NM Gluten-Free Facial to soothe sensitive skin (60 min, $95)

On demand gluten-free beauty While experts are still debating whether gluten can indeed be absorbed through the skin—some argue that gluten molecules are too large— gluten intolerance has been reported to cause rashes, inflammation and blisters on the skin. Yet what truly matters is what the client wants, and if no gluten becomes their new motto, then offering gluten-free treatments on your menu and gluten-free products in your retail area are certainly worth considering. The face is the area of most concern, since products applied on it can easily come into contact with the mouth; therefore gluten-free facials will be among the treatments more sought after by this new and seemingly increasing segment of the population. Liliana Aranda of FACES Mobile Spa in San Francisco, CA, is gluten sensitive and offers strictly gluten-free facials and treatments. “The positive response was overwhelming,” she says. Her treatments focus on soothing inflammation

and bringing moisture. She says that her protocol can be altered to include a firming mask, and that she is working on adding acne and facials to cater to men’s specific needs. If gluten-free products are soothing to the skin, they can also be cosmeceutical and help with anti-aging treatments as well. Skin care assessments are crucial for finding out about allergies in general and sensitivity to gluten and soy—clients with some sort of health issue may react unexpectedly due to diet or medications. This is helpful to determine the right facial and products to address their skin concerns, but it can also give you an idea of how many of your regular guests would benefit and appreciate the addition of treatments that cater to their specific needs.

Ingredients to watch for Wheat and oat derivatives are common in skin care retail and professional grades—barley is sometimes used and rye is rarely used. Oats are gluten-free, but can be contaminated with wheat during processing. Lactic acid is an interesting ingredient because most celiac sources list it as gluten-free, yet some forms are wheat derived. A good tip to remember is that just because a product does not list the buzzwords (wheat, barley, rye, etc.), it does not mean the product is gluten-free. continues

Page 44 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014

images: istockphoto.com

“Conventional medical wisdom is that there is no risk to celiacs unless the patient gets the product in their mouth or an open sore,” says Dr. Ron Hoggan, editor of the Journal of Gluten Sensitivity. “Yet my daughter tried a cream that contained oats and developed a rash that stayed until she stopped using it.”


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skin|food for thought

Gluten-free friendly

offer treatments that gluten-free seekers could enjoy without fear. So take the time to check your products and come up with creative names that will let your gluten sensitive clients—and future clients—know that your spa is a safe place for them to get treatments. n

If gluten can be harmful to some, gluten-free can be beneficial to all, so keep that in mind when marketing your latest gluten-free treatments. Market your new services to local doctors and support groups and watch as your clientele expands. Aranda says that word of mouth has been a strong tool, then adds, “my next step beyond social media is to promote my protocol via doctors and nutritional experts with whom I have connected over the last few months.” As skin care professionals, we wish to rejuvenate and repair the skin of our clients, but we also want to make sure that we “do no harm” in the process. Adding gluten-free treatments to your menu need not be intimidating; you might even already

Kris Campbell is CEO and a formulator for Tecniche, a skin care line dedicated to sensitive skin. She is a certified oncology esthetician, and works with Morag Currin to address the skin concerns of clients who are undergoing cancer treatments. Campbell trains professionals, writes for trade publications and speaks at industry events about conditions faced by people with health challenged skin.

Some skin care companies now offer gluten-free labels, and verifying those with product manufacturers can be worth your while as well.

Help your clients manage their sensitivity with this selection of gluten-free products and brands! TiZO® TiZO3 tizofusion.com Sothys Sothys Immuniscience™ Line sothys-usa.com UltraLuxe All products (except Bright Eyes) ultraluxeskincare.com Rubber Ducky 100% Natural Sunscreen All products rubberduckysunscreen.com HydroPeptide Anti-Wrinkle, AntiWrinkle+Sensitive and Anti-Wrinkle+Clarify Collections hydropeptide.com

Provence Cosmetics Hydralift Serum and Day Cream Multi-Actions provencecosmetics.com

FarmHouse Fresh All products (except Pajama Paste Yogurt Mask, Agave Nectar Oil and Spotted Leaving Serum—check the labels for their latest products) Farmhousefreshgoods.com ®

De La Terre Skincare All products delaterreskincare.com Tecniche® All products tecniche.com Primal Life Organics Paleo Skincare All products primallifeorganics.com

Laurel Whole Plant Organics All products laurelskin.com

Age Corrective Moisturizer and Sun Defense Minerals eminenceorganics.com

DermaQuest ALL PRODUCTS (except Essential B5 Hydrating Serum, C Infusion Cleanser, DermaClear Serum, EyeBrite, Peptide Line Corrector, Retinol Peptide Youth Serum, Salicylic Prep Solution, SkinBrite Cream, and winter 2014 launches Stem Cell 3D Body Crème and Stem Cell 3D HydraFirm Serum) Dermaquestinc.com Tibby Olivier All products tibbyolivier.com

RapidLash® RapidLash rapidlash.com

Éminence Organic Skin Care Bamboo Firming Fluid, Coconut

DermAware® Deep SEA Serum Dermaware.com UltraLuxe All the products (except Fresh Eyes) Thalgo Exception Ultime Silhouette Shape & Correct thalgousa.com Circadia Counter A.G.E. glyco-guard circadia.com

Page 46 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


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skin

Page 48 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


Global Gimmicks and safe alternatives Over thousands of years, an endless array of treatments ranging from the downright bizarre to the scientifically credible have been discovered, created and applied to the skin to fight the signs of aging. Professionals and consumers alike are seeking these treatments to reduce the visible signs of aging and restore a youthful appearance, both for themselves and to offer in their practices. Unfortunately, only a small fraction of these treatments actually deliver on their promises. Regardless of the truth or fiction behind a treatment’s claims, the financial benefit of successfully marketing even the most outlandish treatments is a strong driving force in the industry. Lines must be drawn to protect consumers from irresponsible marketing. Educating your patients about what is scientifically proven to be effective and determining what is actually safe for use is imperative. Shedding light on some of the newest “trends” in supposed age-defying treatments and facials, identifying their intended purpose and addressing any potential safety concerns will help clinicians demystify some of the latest facial gimmicks seen around the world.

images: Shutterstock.com

The fire facial

by Michelle Goldsmith

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Also known as “The Flame Facial” or Huǒliáo, this latest trend in Chinese beauty treatments definitely falls under the category of dangerous. During this treatment, the skin care therapist applies an elixir to the skin, followed by an alcohol soaked towel. The towel is then ignited, allowing open flames to burn the skin through the towel for a few seconds before extinguishing them. It is said that this procedure stimulates the skin to address sagging, wrinkles and a dull appearance. Additionally, some misguided therapists also claim this particular treatment will “cure” obesity, the common cold and a host of troublesome yet common conditions. There is no credible science backing the efficacy of this dangerous procedure. 4

lneonline.com • Page 49


skin|global gimmicks While there really is not a specific treatment that is similar to the fire facial, there are plenty of active enzyme treatments available to clinicians that may be used with steam to enhance the activity. As with this trend, enzyme treatments will also address dull skin issues, stimulate the skin and tighten and brighten, depending upon the ingredients. Pumpkin masks enhanced with salicylic acid and higher-percentage salicylic acid masks (20%) can be quite active and effective. Both pumpkin and salicylic acid have been used for decades with plenty of scientific research backing their claims. These ingredients have been proven very effective, and are much safer than exposing the skin to open flames.

It is our responsibility to keep informed about new ingredients, treatments and product formulations by continuing our education. Even more importantly, we must be able to address our patients’ questions and concerns when it comes to trendy treatments and new ingredients. Bee venom facials This type of treatment is also known as venombased skin care, apitherapy or “nature’s Botox.” The popularity of the bee Venom Facial soared when the Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton received this treatment before her wedding to Prince William. Celebrity endorsement of even a bizarre treatment can lend it often unwarranted credibility, making the clinician’s job difficult. The alleged purpose of this treatment is to increase blood flow, tighten muscles, and trigger collagen and elastin production as the skin recovers from the sting of the venom. In other words, the application of the venom tricks the skin into thinking it has been injured, instigating the wound healing cascade. There are some scientific studies surrounding what is known as bee venom therapy. Because bee venom does contain several peptides, biologically active amines and other non-peptide components, it is said to have properties that aid in relieving certain diseases such as rheumatism, cancerous tumors, skin diseases and arthritis, to name a few. It is important to point out that in these studies, the venom was delivered through subcutaneous injections. Further research is needed in order to prove efficacy when bee venom is applied topically during a facial treatment.

Contrary to popular belief, the patient receiving this treatment is not actually stung by live bees; instead, the venom is harvested humanely, purified and then manufactured into masks or eye care products. The patient should only feel slight tingling and a warm sensation during treatment. An important contraindication to receiving a bee venom facial is having an allergy to bees or bee stings. If there is any doubt, a patch test should be performed to rule out any such allergies. The potential for serious reactions or allergies to bee stings makes the bee venom facial risky. Microdermabrasion works in a similar manner by stimulating the surface of the skin, triggering collagen and elastin production, and blood flow. In addition, it is much less likely to cause a histamine response. Chemical peels will also create stimulation in the skin with years of proven results of tightening and brightening; stimulating collagen and elastin production; as well as treating acne, hyperpigmentation and other skin concerns. As far as tightening facial muscles, there are peptides available, such as acetyl hexapeptide-3, that have long lasting effects and scientific evidence of creating a tightening effect, with very little risk of a histamine reaction.

Vampire facials and facelifts Although they are two different procedures, the terms “Vampire Facial” and “Vampire Facelift” are sometimes used interchangeably. The Vampire Facial is topical in nature and involves the use of a micro-needling device, otherwise known as collagen induction therapy, aerating the surface of the skin in order to facilitate the penetration of topical serums or other skin care products. In some treatments, the patient’s own blood is drawn by a qualified professional and placed in a centrifuge to separate the blood from the plasma. Then the patient’s own platelet rich plasma (PRP) is applied topically. When we bleed as a result of a wound or cut to the skin, it is the actual platelets and growth factors that heal the injured area. The healing process will still take place with this treatment when the PRP is applied to the face, creating a plumper, more radiant look without actually creating a wound. The Vampire Facelift involves several sub-dermal injections of the patient’s PRP into the skin. While this is not really a substitute for surgery, it has become popular among the 30s to early 40s crowd as an alternative to more invasive procedures. continues

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skin|global gimmicks

There is a lot of available and ongoing research on PRP treatments. PRP injections are used to help boost the healing process for tendon, ligament and muscle injuries. Some basic scientific studies have shown that these treatments may indeed improve the healing in many tissues, but there are only a few clinical studies on human subjects that show this. As far as PRP for cosmetic uses, both as an injection and with micro-needling, there have been some credible studies performed with promising results. Many practices are performing these treatments and claim the risks are low, as it is the patient’s own blood product that is utilized. Some physicians are also claiming that the results last up to 2 years, and the cost is less than other dermal fillers available today. Although these treatments may work, when there are blood products being used in a treatment there is an increased risk of infection, breakdown of the skin and contamination if not performed correctly. It is important for clinicians to understand the limitations of their licensure prior to offering this type of treatment.

Tried and true vs. new As skin care professionals, we are passionate about what we do. The desire to offer our patients the latest and greatest is common. As with any industry, ours is constantly evolving.

However, it is our responsibility to keep informed about new ingredients, treatments and product formulations by continuing our education. Even more importantly, we must be able to address our patients’ questions and concerns when it comes to trendy treatments and new ingredients. When researching a new treatment to offer to our patients, we need to think about whether or not science backs its claims and if it is safe. If you choose not to offer a trendy new treatment, remember that there are many tried and true procedures, products and ingredients you can offer that are safe, effective and will accomplish the same results—or even better. n

Michelle Goldsmith, a licensed esthetician, joined PCA SKIN® in 2003. She has excelled as a physician’s consultant, editorial liaison and educator, conducting chemical peel trainings for students and licensed professionals. Goldsmith speaks at medical and esthetic meetings throughout the country. She mentors and trains physicians, skin care clinicians and students around the world.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #280 on reader service card

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mega CLEANSE

optic shield SkinCeuticals’ latest Physical Eye UV Defense SPF 50 is an eye base specifically designed to defend the delicate eye area from the damaging effects of UV exposure, says the company. The all mineral sunscreen formula is anhydrous to prevent migration into eyes, which may cause irritation. skinceuticals.com 800.811.1660

power packed Livana introduces Bio-Rejuvenating Wrinkle Repair Face Cream that uses the most effective active ingredients: peptides, amino complex, hyaluronic acid, collagen, proteins and bioactive luxurious caviar. The ingredients work together to reduce fine lines and wrinkles while moisturizing and improving skin tone and elasticity, says the company. livanaskin.com 727.490.9265

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

SMOOTHER moisture Le Mieux’s new Retinol Serum is a gentler anti-aging product with improved retinol stability that increases the skin’s hydration and helps reverse the signs of environmental change, the company says. With a concentration of vitamin A, vitamin E and three palmitoyls, the serum equalizes the retinol, allowing for the delivery of a higher concentration of pure retinol deep into the epidermis. lemieuxcosmetics.com 888.327.8188

SKINnews

HydroPeptide’s newest Purifying Cleanser is a two-in-one cleaner and mask formulated to produce a clearer, shine-free and younger looking complexion with two peptides, salicylic and mandelic acid and tea tree oil, says the company. The purifying cleanser draws out impurities, promotes rapid correction of imperfections and addresses the signs of aging with a formula designed to deep clean without causing dryness or irritation. hydropeptide.com 800.932.9873

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS more news

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OUR INDUSTRY’S

FINEST

THE ANNUAL LNE & SPA AWARD HONORS THE BEST SPAS IN OUR INDUSTRY FOR THE FOURTH YEAR IN A ROW! THIS DISTINCTION WAS CREATED TO RECOGNIZE SPAS THAT EXEMPLIFY TRUE EXCELLENCE. BY AMANDA CLINTON WINTER

Launched in 2011, the LNE & Spa Award recognizes the dedication, hard work and achievements of spas in the United States and commends one international spa. Spas are nominated for the following categories, for which one contender receives the top honors: Luxury Spa, Day Spa, Wellness Spa, Medical Spa and International Spa. Facilities are selected for their superior care, exemplary services and impeccable standards—undeniable sources of inspiration for the industry. As part of the comprehensive judging process, a mystery client visited all shortlisted locations (save the international nominees), and provided extensive reports to the LNE & Spa Committee. We extend our most sincere congratulations to the winners of this year’s award. May we all follow the path of excellence.

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Opened: 2001 Size: 24,000 sq ft

LUXURY SPA WINNER MII AMO SEDONA AZ Mii amo—a Yuman word that means “to continue one’s path”—is a spa inspired by the rich wisdom and traditions of Native American people, complemented by the beauty and energy of the Red Rocks. This unique spa retreat presents a luxurious experience where guests can find transforming and restorative treatments and therapies.

Facilities: 16 guest rooms (includes two suites), 18 treatment rooms indoors and another five treatment areas outdoors (including one with a dedicated Watsu® pool); a restaurant, a juice bar, indoor and outdoor pools, a movement studio, gym, separate men’s and women’s locker rooms with steam and sauna, and a retail boutique Spa Director: Serene Sanders Staff: 125 Products used/retailed: Éminence Organic Skin Care, Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research, La Bella Donna linea minerale, and Mii amo’s own signature line of skin care and body care Most popular treatment: Spirit of the Moon—Spirit of the New Moon and Spirit of the Full Moon. The guest writes down feelings and thoughts, and receives a full body, scalp and foot massage with wild Arizona sage and frankincense. *Each Spirit of the Moon treatment is offered only on days of that moon’s phase. miiamo.com

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa


Opened: 2007 Size: 6,050 sq ft Facilities: 10 treatment rooms, a nail department with four manicure and pedicure stations, a community and a retail/ reception area Spa Director: Tamara Wills

DAY SPA WINNER ALLYU SPA CHICAGO

IL

Staff: 50 Products used/retailed: Epicuren Skin Care, ilike organic skin care, Pure Dead Sea Mud, and Allyu Spa’s own signature line of skin and body care. Zoya for nail care Most popular treatment: Massage Therapy—a customized therapeutic massage, from relaxing full body services to injury rehabilitation.

Sustainably built and consciously operated, luxury day spa Allyu (ah-yu)—the Quechua word for community— represents the spa’s commitment to their clients and to the earth that sustains us all. Made with mesquite and recycled cork flooring and reclaimed barnwood—including its subdued lighting and Gabion “erosion control” rock-filled walls—Allyu’s space is a testament of the spa’s pledge to make mindful business decisions and respect the planet.

allyuspa.com

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WELLNESS SPA WINNER RANCHO BERNARDO INN

SAN DIEGO

CA

Their fresh and organic ingredients that locals love, and which highlight the best ingredients of the season, are used for more than fine meals. They cleanse and nourish the body and soul for Ranch Bernardo Inn’s Made Fresh Daily treatments. Body and facial services are offered indoors in serene treatment rooms or by the tranquil Spa Garden in temperature-controlled casitas.

Opened: 2008 Size: 6,000 sq ft Facilities: Seven private pool cabanas, seven indoor treatment rooms, five outdoor treatment Casistas, indoor steam-rooms, one saline jacuzzi, one saline pool, one fitness center Spa Director: Kate Santarsieri Staff: 39

Products used/retail: FarmHouse Fresh, elizabethW, Kerstin Florian, Éminence Organic Skin Care, Clarisonic, Beyond Yoga Clothing Most popular treatment: Made Fresh Daily—limited-edition packages that highlight what is best right now. Each handcrafted package includes a complimentary beverage and special “spa at home” body treatment recipe from the spa therapist and a “food at home” recipe by the culinary expert, to continue the spa experience post-stay. ranchobernardoinn.com/spa

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MEDICAL SPA WINNER SENSITIVE TOUCH NEW YORK CITY Implicit in the name is the promise to each client to provide world-class, expert skin care with a sensitive touch. The skin consultation at Sensitive Touch not only provides a personalized plan of action with the proper treatments, but a skin care regimen to follow to maximize results.

Opened: 2008 Size: 2,200 sq ft

NY

Facilities: Three treatment rooms, one consultation room and a reception area (equipment includes: Cynosure Elite MPX laser, Cynosure Affirm laser, Cynosure SmoothShapes laser, Astanza Trinity laser, Zerona laser, and SilkPeel Dermalinfusion). Spa Director: Sabina Kozak Staff: 7 Products used/retailed: iS Clinical, Comfort Zone Most popular treatment: Botox, SmoothShapes sensitivetouch.com

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INTERNATIONAL SPA WINNER ANANDA SPA NARENDRANAGAR INDIA Located in the tranquil Himalayan foothills, close to the mythological cities of Haridwar and Rishikesh, Ananda is the spiritual pathway to the ultimate union of body, mind and soul. Ananda Spa creates the skillful synthesis between age-old therapies and modern spa technology.

Opened: 2001 Size: 24,000 sq ft Facilities: 24 treatments rooms, temperature controlled outdoor lap pool and a state of the art 16-station lifecycle gymnasium Spa Director: Ashok Khanna Staff: 58 Products used/retailed: Ananda produces a custom line of products used throughout the spa. Signature treatment: Ananda Fusion—a fusion of Thai, reflexology, aromatherapy, deep tissue, Tibetan and Swedish massage techniques are applied to create a massage with a powerful therapeutic effect specific to an individual’s personal requirements. anandaspa.com

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spa

sweat THE COLOR OF

The scoop on infrared saunas

Perhaps the starlit heavens were an inspiration for his melodies. Instead he found another calling—astronomy. Through his new passion, Frederick William Herschel brought the scientific community many discoveries: Uranus, its moons and the infrared. Little did the German musician turned scientist know that his 1800 finding would be featured in spas around the world and soothe people when combined with an ancient tradition—the infrared sauna.

Mens sana in corpore sano

photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com

According to the North American Sauna Society, saunas are on an upward trend. Sauna Society President Eero Kilpi estimates that half of saunas in the United States are infrared saunas. Far from a new technology—infrared therapy has been studied since the early 1980s—they are among the easiest, yet most complete treatments for guests to experience at spas. They get to sit and relax, perhaps read or listen to music while the light turned heat penetrates deep into the skin and soothes bones and muscles, improves blood flow, burns fat and promotes mental health—all while inducing healthy, detoxifying sweat. Infrared saunas can also turn out to be the perfect complement to any facial or body care to prepare the skin right before a treatment. 4

by Nathalie Gouillou

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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spa|the color of sweat

Sauna experts suggest on average that new sauna users should start with a 20 to 30 min session a week, and slowly increase to biweekly sessions before treating themselves to a full hour. At the Sweat Shop in Los Angeles, CA, bathers are advised to use the infrared sauna for an average of 40 min and use the rest of their 1 hr booking to shower and relax.

Infrared saunas

The Sweat Shop in Los Angeles, CA The Sweat Shop features small infrared wooden saunas kept private by brick walls on each side and curtains that can be drawn in the front. Each room has a shower with eco-friendly towels, necessary bath products, a mirror, some hangers and a wooden bench. The tonic bar menu features cayenne shots ($1) for heat and circulation, and mineral shots for re-mineralization ($3.50). 60 min, $35 thesweatshopla.com, 310.956.2307 Balanced Health and Fitness in Santa Cruz, CA Balanced Health and Fitness’ near infrared sauna consists of a lounging table and a pillow, surrounded by a curtain and four incandescent infrared lights hanging from the ceiling. The client gets to lie down, close the curtain and “absorb” the benefits of near infrared light. 30 min, $35; 60 min, $55 balancedhealthandfitness.org, 831.234.2950 Human@Ease in Brooklyn, NY Human@Ease offers the Hi-Q fitness sauna, a small far-infrared sauna that allows people to add fitness toning bands to include a workout during the session. The wheelchair accessible sauna features a builtin television. 60 min, $35; fitness bands add-on $5 The wellness center also offers detox packages that include a sauna session such as the Shrink Me in a Hurry—a body wrap, a 30 min session in the infrared sauna and an aromatherapy treatment. 75 min, $65 humanatease.com, 718.388.2900 SweatWorks Infrared Sauna Health Studio in Saint Paul, MN SweatWorks features mid-sized infrared saunas kept private in separate rooms. Guests are advised to bring their own towels, or they can rent towels for $3 each. 30 min, $20 for first timers, $40 after sweatworksstudio.com, 651.493.0459

Origins The Finnish are often credited for spreading the 2,000 year-old tradition that consists of warming up the air of an enclosed space, which mixture of steam and heat bring the “bathers” to sweat profusely (the word “sauna” means “bathhouse” in Finnish). The practice, found in many other cultures—ancient Rome and its Roman bathhouses, Turkey and its hammams, Central America and its temazcales, North America and its sweat lodges, Japan and its mushi buros, Russia and its banyas—has undeniable benefits. First and foremost, sweating allows the body to rid itself of toxins. Research has shown that saunas not only help the body detox, but can alleviate certain ailments as well. It is also good for the heart, just like a nice jog would be. Saunas are also effective for mild depression and fatigue—in other words, they soothe the body and mind. Yet conventional saunas also put the body under very high temperatures of 160 °F and more. While some enjoy the extreme heat, for others these temperatures are uncomfortable, unbearable or simply contraindicated. People with certain medical conditions, such as those who have suffered a heart attack, have chest pains, high blood pressure or severe asthma should refrain from indulging in sweat therapy. While infrared saunas are much safer, clients who have known health predicaments should consult with their doctors first, and pregnant women should abstain from their use. Sauna experts suggest on average that new sauna users should start with a 20 to 30 min session a week, and slowly increase to biweekly sessions before treating themselves to a full hour. At the Sweat Shop in Los Angeles, CA, bathers are advised to use the infrared sauna for an average of 40 min and use the rest of their 1 hr booking to shower and relax.

photo courtesy of SweatWorks Studio in Minnesota and Sunlighten Saunas, Kansas City, MO

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spa

Heat from within Infrared saunas combine the benefits of traditional saunas and those of infrared therapy. Infrared (“below red”) is a naturally occurring light invisible to the naked eye that emits energy and heat, and that has been shown to have great healing properties. Rather than heating up the air like an oven, infrared saunas warm the person inside out as the infrared energy penetrates the skin, affects it at the cellular level, and creates sweating conditions similar to that of a conventional sauna, but at much lower and tolerable temperatures, mostly below 120 °F.

Far and near Infrared saunas are at times divided into the different categories of infrared there are—infrared is typically broken down into near, mid and far, but the ranges can vary (our bodies fall within the mid infrared division, thus the ancient tradition of palm healing relies on the principle of infrared heat). Infrared saunas at spas generally fall within the far infrared range, which means that the infrared heat comes from ceramic or carbon panels, or the near infrared range, where the energy is transmitted from infrared heat lamps (some spas feature full spectrum—near, mid and far—infrared saunas). Studies on the effects of both near and far infrared saunas have shown numerous benefits. Indeed the enclosure of the sauna and the healing properties of infrared therapy can be a powerful combo.

photo: Chilli.Productions/istockphoto.com

Benefits of infrared saunas Sweating: Infrared saunas produce sweating similar to that of a typical sauna, which allows for toxins and other unhealthy chemicals to be expelled from the body. Heart: Studies have shown that infrared saunas benefited patients with congestive heart failure. Skin: The infrared wavelengths penetrate the tissues, help heal the different layers of the skin and improve skin tone, so the skin is purified and rejuvenated.

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Blood circulation: Infrared therapy has been shown to stimulate blood flow, bring oxygen to the body’s cells and increase muscle recovery. Pain relief: Studies have shown that exposure to infrared lights has a soothing effect. They relieve bone and muscle aches, improve joint stiffness (arthritis symptoms were ameliorated) and also act as a calming agent. Endorphin stimulation: Otherwise known as happy hormones! An infrared sauna session triggers the release of endorphins, which helps the client feel reinvigorated, thus fighting mental fatigue and depression. Weight loss: Infrared saunas can help the body get rid of fat. The heart rate increases and the body burns some extra calories. continues

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spa|the color of sweat The vast array of literature on infrared saunas can be confusing because there is some disagreement as to the levels of electromagnetic fields (EMF) the panels used in far infrared saunas emit (near infrared saunas have very low EMF levels), and whether these are a health hazard. EMFs influence the body and can create biological stress. Studies have shown that EMF exposure of more than 3 mG (mil-

ligauss is the unit to measure magnetic fields) already shows signs of biological influence, but the evidence can at times be weak, and EMF exposure remains an open question. In addition, our bodies are “bombarded” daily with electric fields of varying frequencies, from our cellphones to our computers, hair dryers, microwaves, power lines, radars and more, all of which are well above 3 mG.

Some spas, such as The Sweat Shop in Los Angeles, choose to advertise their EMF levels to assuage their clients. The EMF levels of their infrared heaters, says the company, are “virtually undetectable.” Other facilities, such as Balanced Health and Fitness in Santa Cruz, CA, feature near infrared saunas, where infrared lamps are favored. While most saunas are enclosed spaces with benches for clients to sit on, at Balanced Health and Fitness, clients get to lie down on the infrared sauna bed. “I’m definitely a strong proponent of thermotherapy in whichever mode it comes,” said Kilpi of the Sauna Society. But the sauna aficionado believes that the infrared sauna session should be more than sitting and sweating while waiting for the timer to chime. Going to a sauna, Kilpi argues, is a whole mind and body experience. Clients should have access to a shower and a restful private area to retreat to at intervals at their discretion, where perhaps they can indulge in a fresh drink, before reentering the sauna. Ideally, says Kilpi, guests should have access to the outdoors to breathe in some fresh air and truly enjoy their experience to the fullest. Infrared sauna owners wishing to incorporate more of an “authentic” experience into their menu could accommodate a space for their clients by the sauna’s entrance with chairs and magazines, and perhaps a diverse array of beverages. Of course, Kilpi dreams of bringing back the leisure and pleasure that conventional saunas represented in distant times. But in our fast paced world, time is of the essence, and infrared saunas are a great way to enjoy the perks of sweat and light therapy all in one sitting. And so it is that Herschel, the German astronomer, continues to bring “music” to people’s ears. n Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at nathalie@lneonline.com.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #236 on reader service card

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decadent moisture

full shield Bio-Therapeutic’s Shade SPF 30 UVA/ UVB is a full spectrum sunscreen that provides necessary protection with hyaluronate for maximum hydration and a powerful paraben free preservative combining gluconolactone and sodium benzoate. This non-oily, soothing and refreshing cream makes it ideal for daily use and is a great makeup base, says the company. bio-therapeutic.com 800.976.2544

Layers of luxury Repêchage®’s latest Vita Cura® Triple Action Body Collection is a decadent array of body products infused with the world’s finest natural resources, says the company. Their Triple Action formulations give the body a full transformation in skin tone, texture and touch. Harnessing the benefits of African Mafura oil, French seaweed, coconut and carrot oil, shea butter as well as vanilla and rooibos essence, the formulations will transform dull skin for a smoother, firmer and more hydrated appearance from head to toe. The collection includes: Body Soufflé, Nutri Crème, Nutri Oil, Body Contour Cream and Foaming Seaweed. repechage.com 800.248.SKIN

SUN CANCELLATION EXEL Institute’s High Sun Protection SPF 30 Plus is formulated for skin that is highly sensitive to the sun. The sunscreen forms a UVA/UVB resistant film that reduces the possibility of hyperpigmentation spots caused by sun damage. Enhanced with aloe vera gel, shea butter and vitamin E, the cream helps to diminish the signs of premature aging, says the company. exel-usa.com 305.866.8163

SPAnews

FarmHouse Fresh®’s latest Ginger Sorbet Body Milk is a dessert inspired body crème that calms and nourishes the skin with a blend of light hydrating oils, all while stimulating the taste buds, says the company. Featuring rice bran oil, jojoba, avocado and sesame oil, as well as ginger and grapefruit extracts, this formula is vegan and gluten-free. farmhousefreshgoods.com 888.773.9626

BODy, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS more news

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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moisture perfect

post sun calm

SPAnews

Dermatude launched its new Intense Restorer Masks for the face and neck to restore and cool the skin and bring back its healthy glow, says the company. The masks are to be applied immediately after a Meta Therapy treatment to soothe the skin. Containing Tetrapeptide and Hexapeptide, along with allantoin and algae extract, the masks penetrate deep into the skin, taking away redness and burning sensations. dermatudeusa.com 855.309.0313

BODy, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS

Cuccio’s latest Naturale Lytes and Butter Blend collections have a clean refreshing spa scent of white limetta and aloe vera, perfect for excellent hydration year round, says the company. White limetta contains vitamin C and has the antioxidant properties of flavonoids. Aloe vera provides natural protection for the skin. Both blends, which leave the skin feeling soft and smooth, offer non-oily 24 hr time released hydration with 2 hr time released emollients. cuccio.com 800.762.6245

anti-aging technology

REfreshing flower Jane Iredale welcomes the Smell the Roses Hydration Spray to celebrate 7 years of partnership with Living Beyond Breast Cancer. The moisturizing spritz features organic rose damascena flower water, an excellent skin tonic that cleanses, calms inflammation and reduces redness without disturbing the skin’s natural protective shield, says the company. janeiredale.com 800.762.1132

Lifeline Skin Care’s latest Daily Defense Complex is a line of products based on growth factors from human stem cells. The super-potent formula firms, tones and defends skin, and also integrates easily into post-procedure protocols and home care regimens, says the company. Key ingredients in the Daily Defense Complex help to repair previous photoaging and protect against future UV damage. Collagen and elastin production have been proven in vitro to improve by 46-55%. The line is designed for all skin types but recommended for mature or photodamaged skin. lifelineskincare.com 877.764.9707

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GUIDE

Thinking of creating, revamping or renewing your lash bar? Don't hold back! Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa's Lash Out Guide walks you through all the steps…


LASH OUT GUIDE Page 68 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


lashes The Business of

The lash business is booming. Between the lash bars popping up all over the country to day spas boosting their revenue by adding lash menus to their treatment offerings and lash products to their retail shelves, there is a lot of money to be made enhancing the eyes.

“Ten years ago, when we first started, there were only a few companies doing what we do. You would type ‘eyelash extensions’ into a search engine and barely anything would come up. Now, millions of things come up,” says Barbara Rattigan, owner of LashSpot Spa in Costa Mesa, CA.

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LASH OUT GUIDE

by Caroline Canetti


LASH OUT GUIDE

A successful lash business starts with a great lash technician, and a great technician comes from stellar training. “The process is not just about how to apply the lashes, it is also about safety, theory and how to analyze the client’s lashes and face to decide what really works for them,” Rattigan says. “Part of being a great lash technician is not just giving the client what they think they want, but knowing what type of lashes work on the type of existing lashes they have. It is an art and it takes practice.” To give a clearer idea of what the different levels of training mean to the bottom line, Cecilli Grootemaat, owner of Sable Lash Lounge in Bellevue, WA, explains her lash menu. “I am a master lash artist and can charge $255. My senior artist has one and a half years and she does my lashes, so she charges $195. Our junior lash artist has only been applying lash extensions for approximately 3 months and is still getting her technique and speed down, so she only charges $100. Essentially, clients are paying for the skill level of their service provider,” she explains. Once you hire well-trained lash artists or become experienced yourself,

it is all about being the best and having people talk about it. “Doing quality work gets you great online reviews, and that gets you the word of mouth you need to succeed. That is it. That is the marketing plan. Yelp reviews are so important these days,” says Courtney Akai, owner of Courtney Akai Lash Boutique in Soho, NY. Likewise, Blinkbar, which has locations in California, Texas and soon in New York, has a no advertising policy. “It is all word of mouth. And, if press writes us up, they write us up. We rely on our clients to spread the word and they certainly do. We get a lot of bloggers writing about us. Our first big win when we first opened in West Hollywood was when we were named one of the best places in L.A. for eyelash extensions by CBS. That drew a lot of new clients,” says Blinkbar owner Tirzah Briscoe. The same thing happened when Akai got great press in The New York Times. “That was our first big hit that got it going,” she says. Akai did spend a few marketing dollars on Reach Local, an online marketing company, for search engine optimization (SEO) purposes to make sure

Courtney Akai Lash Boutique came up high in Google searches so potential clients would find them when someone typed in something like “best lashes in New York.” “That worked great,” she says. “But, now, we have enough clients and they keep coming back. We do not need to spend money on marketing or advertising. We just need to keep up the quality work,” says Akai. So, why is it that eyelash treatments can rely so heavily on word of mouth?

“It is because lash extensions are instantly transformative. Clients open their eyes and look in the mirror and go, ‘Oh my god! It looks like I got a face-lift. I look younger! Thank you!’ And, they hug me. It is a powerful moment and it is so gratifying for me too,”

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July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

photos: Shutterstock.com

of lashes is $175, while the member price is $99. “It has worked out really well for us and they save money on our other services we offer, such as waxing or brows. Once you secure them as a member, you almost have them as a client for life and they do keep coming back,” says Rattigan. Just like with add-ons for facials, there are creative add-ons for lashes that help add a few more coins to the cash register as well. Lashes by Shannon offers Candied Lashes in four colors that are hand-dipped, freeze dried and crystallized, and then cut to the desired length. They come in Cinnamon Toast, Blue Raspberry, Mint Chocolate and Sugar Plum, with each extra lash costing $3 a pop. Courtney Akai Lash Boutique also offers Candied Lashes for $10 per lash, while LashSpot Spa adds bling to lashes with Swarovski Crystals at $8 per crystal. “The crystal goes on the lash line so when you blink, you see a little bling. Brides and girls with banging style love this,” says Rattigan. Of course, the last piece of the puzzle is sending your clients out the door with some retail products. The key to stocking your retail shelves is to buy the products that go specifically with the brand and type of lashes and lash glues that you carry. Aftercare products can include makeup remover, facial cleansers, eyeliner, lash conditioner and eyelash shampoo to keep those extensions clean. While it may seem counterintuitive, lash and eyebrow growth serums are an important component as well. Today most lashes and lash glues allow for growth products. In addition, it is a very good alternative for your clients who just want to naturally extend the length of their lashes. With so many lash bars successfully delivering top-notch lashes in every town, it begs the question: Can day spas that are new to the lash game really compete? “Absolutely! I always say there are enough eyes to go around,” says Lashes by Shannon owner Shannon Sturdivant. Adds Goycochea,

“The process is not just about how to apply the lashes, it is also about safety, theory and how to analyze the client’s lashes and face to decide what really works for them.” LASH OUT GUIDE

says Carla Goycochea, manager, makeup artist and lash stylist at Blu Water Day Spa & Salon in Kensington, MD. Since word of mouth is key, a great way to nudge that along is to share photos of your fabulous lashes on all of your social media platforms, especially the powerful Instagram, but also by posting photos on your Yelp page. If you are a day spa new to the lash game, make sure you introduce your new lash menu to your existing clients through your newsletter, all your social media outlets, and through special introductory prices and promotions to get started. Another reason lashes are good for business is that clients truly become addicts once they get their first set of lashes. They usually become a client for life because, like with acrylic nails or hair coloring, they really do need to come in for regular touch-ups/refills. Refills are needed every 2 to 4 weeks, depending on the client’s natural growth cycle, or how picky they are about keeping the fullness of the lashes consistent. Refill prices can be set or fluctuate with the type of lash offered. For example, Blinkbar’s Glam-Rock Rihanna ombre lashes that cost $200 have a refill price of $100, while Akai’s touch-ups range from $75 to $200 per hour. A good way to make sure lash clients come back is to book their refill/touchup appointment when they check out. Additionally, having a few programs in place to encourage frequent visits does the trick as well. Lashes by Shannon in Dallas, TX, offers several enticements, including package deals (five or more for 5% off, 10 or more for 10% off, and 20 or more for 20% off), as well as a referral program, where if you send in three new referrals you get a free touch-up. She also offers a FabuLash card. For every five touch-ups, cardholders get their sixth one free, and a $99.99 monthly membership for unlimited touch-ups. Similarly, the LashSpot Lash Lovers membership for $29 a month offers discounts and special members-only deals. For instance, a normal initial application

“Lashes bring in money and loyal customers. In this day and age, day spas must have lashes on their menu.” While it is important to offer clients a variety of lash services and products, Grootemaat notes that a full set of eyelash extensions provides the best profit margin by far. “Since the product cost for an eyelash extension service is fairly low, the profit margin is high. Essentially, clients are paying for the skill level of their service provider,” she says. n

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Burning Questions

About

Extensions BY AIDAN C. SHAW

Makeup clients ask a lot of questions, especially when it comes to anything involving their most important feature—their eyes!

When it comes to eyelash extensions, an ever-growing beauty must-have, there are still a lot of unknowns. So, whether you have been servicing your clients with eyelash extensions for some time now or are new to this part of the beauty business, it is smart to be armed with some strong answers to their bevy of questions. Here is how some pros in the lash business address clients’ frequently asked questions and misconceptions about getting eyelash extensions.

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How should clients prepare for an appointment? “We send an email to all of our clients when they book an appointment saying, ‘Please come in with no eye makeup on.’ Ideally, we want them to not wear makeup for 24 hr before they come in,” says Tirzah Briscoe, owner of Blinkbar, which has locations in West Hollywood and Santa Monica, CA; Austin and Dallas, TX, and more opening soon in New York. Additionally, Shannon Sturdivant, owner of Lashes by Shannon in Dallas, TX, tells her clients at the time of confirmation not to drink coffee before their appointment, so that they are not so jittery that they blink their eyes during application.

How long does the process take? “If it is the client’s first time, it can take up to 3 hr for a full set because there is a consultation where we need to explain the services, analyze their lashes and answer their questions,” says Carla Goycochea, manager, makeup artist and lash stylist at Blu Water Day Spa & Salon in Kensington, MD. Other lash applications can run from 1 to 2 hr, depending on how many lashes are put on, while lash refills—touchups—can be a 45 min appointment. Another factor that influences time is eye sensitivity; more time is needed if the client has sensitive eyes and tears up or blinks a lot.

photos: Shutterstock.com

Will eyelash extensions damage my natural lashes? “The answer to that is ‘no,’ and, unfortunately, ‘if you are not careful, yes,’” says Cecilli Grootemaat, owner of Sable Lash Lounge in Bellevue, WA. “It really depends on who is applying the lashes. If they

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go to an artist who is highly skilled and uses outstanding products and technique, they can wear lashes consecutively without taking breaks in between the natural growth cycles. If they go to a service provider who has not been properly trained, they will very likely end up with ‘clumpy’ lashes that are glued together improperly or with bad glue. Their lash line may become swollen and/ or itchy. Their natural lashes will not be able to grow or shed properly, which will absolutely cause some level of damage.” Adds Briscoe, “Some people will find that their lashes grow longer and thicker with extensions on because the everyday process of curling your eyelashes and then putting on coats of mascara and scrubbing it off every night can be much more damaging than well applied eyelash extensions.”

How long will lash extensions last? “It is really based on the natural growth cycle of your lashes and everyone is different, but 6 to 8 weeks is average,” says Courtney Akai of Courtney Akai Lash Boutique in Soho, NY. Most experts say touch-ups, or refills, are recommended every 2 to 4 weeks, or when you feel like you have lost 50 to 75% of your lash extensions.

What are the aftercare instructions? It depends on the type of lashes and lash glue that you use, so be sure to send your clients home with take-home instructions specific to the products you use. Some types of glues can get wet immediately, while others should stay away from water, steam, saunas and sweat for 24 hr in order to let the glue set. Be sure to know your products well. As a general rule, clients should avoid harsh rubbing. Likewise, some products prohibit the use of oil-

based makeup removers. It is also a great upsell to provide after-care products, such as makeup removers, facial cleansers and eye creams that work well with the eyelash extension products you use.

Why buy $250 lash extensions at a spa versus $69 lash extensions on a Groupon? There are several good reasons for that: “Experience and quality,” says Grootemaat. Adds Sturdivant, “I always say you get what you pay for.” “To not ruin your natural lashes!” says Akai. Briscoe shares one Groupon horror story: “I have had people come in that had just gotten their lashes done at some place they found on a Groupon, and the person glued their lashes in clusters with lashes bought from a store and glue that felt like Krazy Glue. There is more regulation in other countries, but it is the Wild Wild West here. You do not know what you are going to get when you get it for so cheap on Groupon.” n

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Create The Ultimate BY CARRIE-ANN BUCKINGHAM

photos: Shutterstock.com

From perming, lifting and shampooing to coloring, tinting and crystallizing, treatment menus for eyelashes alone are expanding fast and far beyond just the ever-growing list of eyelash extensions.

The latter, meanwhile, is also expanding in leaps and bounds from demure, barely there lashes for under $50 to the Kim Kardashian full-glam mink lashes that can cost upwards of $650. The point is that if you want to compete and succeed in the lash business— as every day spa should since it brings in significant revenue and steady customers—your lash menu needs to be complete. “Staying up on the trends, the latest products and offering a full menu is really important,” says Tirzah Briscoe, owner of Blinkbar, which has locations in California, Texas, and soon in New York.

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The menu must-have It all starts with the extensions you choose, and they come in acrylic, silk, mink or 100% Siberian mink (See “Mink, Silk, Human Hair or Synthetic Lashes: What is the Difference?” on page 78 for a breakdown of the materials). With that, your basic offerings would be a full lash set, corners only, a half set, and refills every 2 to 4 weeks, depending on the regrowth cycle of the client’s eyelashes (or how well the lashes were applied and the quality of the glue).

Being creative After establishing the menu, it is time to get creative and come up with clever,

marketable styles that will get clients excited. There are some classics—such as the cat eye—but you can take some liberties and let your creative juices flow. For example, LashSpot Spa in Costa Mesa, CA, offers a Party Lash option for individual lashes, which lasts just 2 to 5 days ($35 regular price; $25 member price). “The party lash is if you are going out for a night with the girls and do not feel like putting on store-bought lashes yourself, which is hard to do,” says owner Barbara Rattigan. Lashes by Shannon in Dallas, TX, offers The Flirt. “This is a partial set of eyelash extensions. It starts at about the middle of continues

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Lash Menu


LASH OUT GUIDE

the eye and goes out toward the corners. It is for those clients who do not want to get a full set, but love the cat eye look. However 100% of the clients I have ever done the Flirt on have come back to get their entire lashes done,” says owner Shannon Sturdivant, who charges $150 for a certified technician and $180 for an advanced technician to do the work. The Blinkbar chain offers 10 styles that run the style and price point gamut from the Kitty-Corner ($49), which adds lashes to just the corners of the eyes, to Tickled Mink, a full set of 100% real Siberian mink luxurious lashes for $350. Other fun items on their menu include the Glam-Rock Rihanna for $200, which starts out deep black at the base with a hint of color (sapphire blue or amethyst purple a the tips), and the Dolled Up Deliah ($89), which is shorter on the corners and longer in the middle to give a more doe-eyed innocent look. “We are always trying to bring in new, exciting stuff. We want everyone to feel beautiful. For the woman who wants to show her natural beauty with not a lot of makeup, our Ultra-Matte Maddy [$200] is popular and for the woman who wants to be glammed up, we have several options, such as Vamp up the Volume [$200]. We have a large menu with different looks for all different customers. Right now, the cat eye [Kat’s out of the Bag, $89] is just universally popular,” says Briscoe. Some salons do just fine without clever names, such as one of New York’s hottest lash artists, Courtney Akai, owner of Courtney Akai Lash Boutique in Soho, NY, whose reputation and tenure allows her to charge up to $650 for a full set of mink lashes. “I have been doing lashes since 2004 and we have technicians who are properly trained; we use quality lashes, and quality glues that do not fume up if you cry—and they last longer. That is why we can charge so much,” she says. Another popular trend is bottom lashes for two reasons. For one, some clients like the 1960s look that bottom lashes provide, and others like bottom

lashes to give more of a finished, editorial look for photo shoots and weddings. “The ‘60s look is very in right now, where the lashes are longer on the bottom than your natural lash and a little more separated. As a lash artist, you really need to keep up on these trends,” says Sturdivant.

Add volume Volume lashes, also known as 3D lashes, is another hot menu item and a relatively new technique. “Volume lashing is adding volume and density to the lashes; it is where you are attaching two to six lash extensions to one natu-

Semi-permanent mascara And, lash-obsessed clients are asking for a lot more than extensions these days. The next hot trend is semi-permanent mascara. “This is great for someone who might not want extensions, or they like their lashes and like to wear mascara but do not want to have to put it on and take it off, or have it smudge and get raccoon eyes. You can just get up and go and it can last up to 4 weeks,” explains Akai, who offers the service for $200 for top lashes and $50 for bottom lashes. LashSpot Spa’s clients who get lash extensions mostly use it for their bot-

“The eyelash tinting service works well for people who have really light blond lashes so they do not have to apply mascara all the time. These results usually last 4 to 6 weeks, depending on the shedding cycle, mainly,” ral eyelash,” says Rattigan. “Each extension is very thin, much thinner than the typical lash extensions, which is why we are able to attach more than one to each natural lash. With normal extensions, you should only attach one extension to each natural lash. We start at $225 and go up from there, based on how many multiples of lashes they want. So for instance, a 2D would be $225 but a 5D could be upwards of $350 if the client has a ton of lashes.”

tom lashes. “They get the extensions and do not want extensions on the bottom, but still want the bottom to stand out, so they do the semi-permanent mascara on bottom. Unlike with just dying or tinting bottom lashes, it is thicker—like you are wearing mascara. It is an at-spa treatment, not a take home product,” clarifies Rattigan. LashSpot Spa offers their semi-permanent mascara on the bottom lashes for $20 (regular price) and $15 (member price).

Fun add-ons

Lash tinting is not just for the aforementioned clients with light lashes or those who are not quite ready for the high-maintenance world of extensions. “The eyelash tinting service works well for people who have really light blond lashes so they do not have to apply mascara all the time. These results usu-

Along with all of these fabulous lashes and styles come some fun add-ons, such as candied lashes, colored lashes and Swarovski crystals. (See our related story on how to make money on add-ons like these in “The Business of Lashes” on page 68).

Lash tinting

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Perms That brings us to perms where the lashes are curled back onto rods, clips or silicone pads. (See our related story on lash perming “The Wave Rave” on page 113.)

Extension removal There is always the client who thinks they can pull off the Kim Kardashian or Rihanna look, but regrets it the day

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

after the service. Or a client who got tricked into a cheap lash service via a Groupon, only to find that the poor quality glue made their eyes burn or the cheap, stiff lashes made their eyes hurt. For that, spas should offer a lash removal service. Courtney Akai Lash Boutique offers one at $60. Lashes by Shannon cost $50, and Blinkbar’s are only $20.

Eyelash shampooing With all of the coming and going of eyelash extensions, lifts, dyes, and crystals on your lashes, it is good to give them a thorough cleaning once in a while. Some spas are now offering eyelash shampooing treatments. The Lash Lounge in San Clemente, CA, for instance, offers Eyelash Shampooing ($25) as a deep cleaning service for the lashes and lash line to prevent bacteria and buildup that can potentially cause infection.

Just for him One of the more surprising new items on some spa lash menus is lash extensions for men! “I had a man come in with dark hair and dark eyes, but his lashes were starting to gray, before any other hair on his body. It was the

craziest thing. So we started doing lash services for men,” says Sturdivant. LashSpot Spa recently added a full lash menu for men that includes Tint ($35 regular price; $25 member price); Lift (a.k.a. semi-curl, $55 regular; $35 member); Extensions ($70 regular; $35 member); and extension Touch-ups ($45 regular; $35 member). “We do have a lot of straight men in Orange County that get lash tints or brow waxing,” says Rattigan. “But for the most part, it is gay men that get the lash extensions. But I could see it going mainstream, especially among people in the entertainment industry, news anchors and high-end real estate agents.”

Trends may change, and new techniques and products will pop up, but one thing remains certain—the lash addiction is here to stay! “Lashes make women feel beautiful and put together—ready to run out the door at a moment’s notice,” says Cecilli Grootemaat, owner of Sable Lash Lounge in Bellevue, WA. “They truly are instant gratification for our clients... and for us!” n

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LASH OUT GUIDE

ally last 4 to 6 weeks, depending on the shedding cycle, mainly,” says Carla Goycochea, manager, makeup artist and lash stylist at Blu Water Day Spa & Salon in Kensington, MD. ($40, or $45 with an add-on under-eye collagen treatment). Tinting (a.k.a. dyeing) is also a good choice for a client who wants a more natural look. “If they want their lashes to look natural and light, we might suggest a combo of a lash tint and a minilash extension on them. That way, they will get that nice black coloring on their lashes and the extensions will blend really well. Or, for somebody who wants to have some curl in their lashes but is a bit nervous about the extensions, we could do a lash tint and a perm with it,” says Rattigan.


Mink, Silk, Human Hair or Synthetic Lashes

What is the Difference? LASH OUT GUIDE

BY PRISCILLA SARACENO

As the phrase goes, the eyes are the windows to the soul. So that would mean that the eyelashes are the curtains that add a little flare to one’s stare. That flare comes in many looks, feels and price points. But what is really the difference between mink, faux mink, synthetic mink, silk, synthetic silk, human hair extensions and so on? Well, some of it is truly just in the name. For example, faux mink can mean the same as synthetic mink, while premium silk can also simply mean silk. And, silk is not actually silk, but a synthetic material made to feel like silk. Here is a breakdown of what it all means...

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photos: Shutterstock.com

Premium silk

“Between the silk and mink, in terms of popularity, it is pretty neck and neck.”

“These are a shinier lash and look more silky, kind of a sleek look as if your lash got a Brazilian blowout,” says Barbara Rattigan, owner of LashSpot Spa in Costa Mesa, CA. “For us, between the silk and mink, in terms of popularity, it is pretty neck and neck.” (Full set, $175)

Silk mink

100% Siberian mink “This is ethically sourced 100% Siberian mink. It is not a good choice for vegans. They are very unique and hollow inside and look very natural. These are the most expensive [$350 for a full set] and are great for people filming in HD. These are the most full and glam. You see the really glamorous celebrities like J. Lo and Kim Kardashian wearing these types of lashes,” says Briscoe.

Synthetic mink “These are synthetically made to look like mink and are for people who are on a budget. We wanted to make lashes available to everyone. So we have our $89 price point so I would say those are really popular. We have a lot of younger clients, and new actresses who need

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Premium faux mink “Mink looks more matte, creating a fluffy and soft look. The lashes are animal cruelty free, made of a synthetic material and feel softer, lighter, and look more luxurious than a normal lash extension,” says Rattigan. (Full set, $175)

Mink/silk combo “Some clients like to have a mix, so we will do a combo of the silk and the mink, and it is less expensive than a full mink set, which not everyone can afford. So they get a little bit of the minx [look]. You get the sleek, silky look with that soft look and it looks beautiful. That is $200,” says Briscoe.

Acrylic None of the lash experts featured in this article use acrylic lashes, which is actually the original type of lash extension. Acrylic lashes are hard, inflexible, scratchy and have a very dramatic look.

Human hair eyelash extensions Extensions made from human hair look almost too natural. This is because human hair is super fine and does not dramatically change the appearance of lashes. Because they are the lightest lashes available, human hair eyelash extensions last 10 weeks, longer than any other lashes. Mature clients with weak natural lashes would be ideal candidates for human hair extensions. They come in natural blond tones, so redheads and those with fair hair colors will benefit the most. n

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“I can only talk about our own because ours are custom lashes. All silks are not the same. Our silk mink lashes are incredibly soft. We call them the Jimmy Choo of lashes. You can run your fingers on it. It is a really light lash and our higher end lash. They are for people who really want that jet black look and they are willing to pay for it,” says Tirzah Briscoe, owner of Blinkbar, which has four locations in California and Texas, and more opening in New York soon. (Full set, $200)

headshots use these. They are very glossy black,” says Briscoe.


FABU-LASH! MENU MUST-HAVES... GRANDELASH™-MD • Eyebrow Enhancing Serum • Eyelash Enhancing Serum grandelashmd.com

CILSFRANCE

• Vitamin E Stick in Moxie • Lash Lift Premeasured Lotions • Lash Lift Silicone Pads • Applicators • Semi Permanent Eyelash Coating cilsfrance.net

RAPIDLASH MINKYS

• Lash Extension Kit

• Black Coating Sealant minkys.com

• Eyelash Enhancing Serum • Eyebrow Enhancing Serum • Wow Lash-Mascara shop.rocasuba.com

INTENSIVE

• Tint Developer • Tint Middle Brown • Tint Brush universalcompanies.com

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Retail Super Stars THE CRAVE COLLECTION • Eyelash Conditioner thecravecollection.com

BELLA LASH

• Lash Cleanser • Lash Primer • Lash Extension Kit • Platinum Adhesive bellalashextensions.com

LASH-BOMB REVITALASH

• Advanced Eyelash Conditioner • Advanced Eyebrow Conditioner revitalash.com

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

• Lash Tray • Lash Primer • Lash Glue • Mini Lash Brush girlfriendsbeauty.net

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Spa Pricing for

Profit get in the black

Renowned investor Warren Buffett said, “The single most important decision in evaluating a business is pricing power. If you have got the power to raise prices without losing business to a competitor, you have got a very good business. And if you have to have a prayer session before raising the price 10%, then you have got a terrible business.” If you own a spa or salon, you are in business to make profits! To be profitable, there are key financial formulas that must be implemented to operate a sustainable, successful business. These financial formulas include pricing strategies. Pricing is one of the most important business functions. If your products and services are not priced properly, your business may not survive. The question is: What is the proper way to price to ensure profits? A couple of years ago, I was doing a spa leadership seminar for a group of Florida spa owners. One of the seminar segments was on how to price spa treatments. I asked one participant how she determined the prices of her facials and she replied, “I looked at another spa’s pricing and used similar pricing.” I asked another spa owner and she gave a similar answer. In fact, all the attendees gave basically the same answer. In most cases, spa owners do not use proper financial formulas to set their pricing. This practice is very costly and can cause a business to fail. This article explains how to price services so you are in the black—not in the red! 4

by Dori Soukup

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photo: Yuri Arcurs/istockphoto.com

business

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As a spa owner, you have the responsibility to price professional treatments and retail products. When pricing services and products, you must utilize the following financial formulas to determine the right profitable price. Let’s begin with professional treatments. The first step is to obtain a cost per treatment analysis from your vendor. They should supply you with

Facial Price $100 1. Operating expenses 40% $40 2. Compensation 35% $35 3. Product cost 15% $15 4. Profit 10% $10 Based on this example, you will make a profit of $10.

a spreadsheet identifying the product cost by treatment type. The second step is to identify your operating expenses. A fundamental rule of pricing is that you need to cover your costs and then factor in a profit. That means that you have to know how much your operating expenses are. The third step is to determine the compensation cost you will pay per treatment. The fourth step is determining how much profit you would like to earn per treatment. Once you identify all of the factors above, you are ready to price your treatments. Example: If you want to make a 10% profit on a facial, what will the price have to be if your operating expenses are 40%, your compensation is 35%, or your product cost is 15%? If you want to earn a 20% profit, you would have to price the facial at $110. If you want to profit 30%, the price would have to be $120, and so on.

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photo: Monkey Business Images/istockphoto.com

When expensive equipment is purchased, it is important to calculate the Return On Investment (ROI), and how long it will take to pay off the investment.


business|spa pricing for profit

If you discount too much, clients may question your full-rate pricing or see you as a cheap option, making it difficult to charge full-rate prices.

The break even point is another important factor to consider. In this example, you cannot sell the facial for less than $90 or you will lose money. The only way you could sell it for less and not lose would be if you were going to pay less compensation, receive a lower price for cost per treatment or upgrade the client. Discounting is a key factor to take into consideration. Discounting can eat up your profits. Price your treatments with discount rates in mind. If discounting is not taken into consideration when pricing treatments, it will diminish or eliminate your profit.

Expensive equipment and pricing The Rejuva Skin and Laser Spa recently opened. Owner Lilly Fonseca invested in expensive equipment for laser hair removal, lipo and more. When expensive equipment is purchased, it is important to calculate the Return On Investment (ROI), and how long it will take to pay off the investment. These assumptions provide clarity when setting your pricing. Forecast how many treatments need to be performed, at what price, and for what period of time before you break even.

Types of pricing strategies Underpricing: Many businesses mistakenly underprice their treatments, attempting to convince consumers they are the least expensive, hoping to drive up revenue. This is not a good strategy. Overpricing: On the flip side, overpricing a product can turn off consumers and decrease sales. When to raise prices—and how: You should always be testing new prices, new offers, new combinations of benefits and added value to sell more. You can introduce a new menu to raise your prices. Monitor pricing: Another key component to pricing your product right is to continuously monitor your prices. It is not enough to look at overall profitability every month. You have to focus on the profitability (or lack of profitability) of every product you sell. You must know

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

which products and treatments are selling and which are not. Weekend pricing: Airlines have mastered supply and demand. They change their airfare any time they see supply is limited. You can do the same. You can have different pricing based on primetime and non-primetime. M.C. Spa in Orlando, FL, offers different pricing for their memberships. It is one price for the weekend and another for weekdays. This method works very well and drives clients into non-primetime slots, filling many schedule gaps. Perceived value: Instead of discounting, reducing prices and diminishing your profits, you can provide added value to increase sales. Discounting: If you discount too much, clients may question your full-rate pricing or see you as a cheap option, making it difficult to charge fullrate prices. Avoid doing Groupon offers and other deep discounting methods. You will only attract deal hoppers. Skimming: If you have a unique product or service, you can sell it at a high price. This is known as skimming—but you need to be sure that what you are selling is truly unique. Penetration: This is the opposite of skimming—starting at a low price and gaining market share before competitors catch up with you. Once you have a loyal clientele, then you can raise your prices. n Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@insparationmanagement.com.

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If you build it, they will come… cater to your loyalists When you are doing what you do best, people notice and word gets around. “If you build it, they will come!” It is this intense passion for your craft that builds loyalty, and loyal clients are your marketing soldiers on the ground, spreading the vision that you have instilled within them. To this day, there is no marketing platform that can even be remotely compared to word of mouth, personal referrals that come from satisfied clients. This is not to say that you should not market your business in a traditional sense, only that you should keep your priorities in check. Your efforts are always best spent satisfying your loyalists, as they are truly your marketing team. Experts agree that in most business models, regardless of the industry, a mere 10-15% of customers are responsible for up to 90% of the revenue that business produces. Realizing these statistics support how important it is to recognize and champion your most loyal customers, do you know who your loyalists are? Does your team? And how are they made to feel just a little bit special? The point being is that it is imperative to keep the satisfaction of your loyalists at the top of your priority list at all times. They are, literally, your business.

Success is in the details Many businesses invest a great deal of time, money and effort conducting in-depth surveys to try to understand their customer better. While I think surveys can be useful, my experience is that most people are very reluctant to be candid when filling out a survey, and those that are not reluctant usually do not require a survey to let you know. 4

by David Suzuki

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photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com

busines

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business|if you build it, they will come...

Environment is an extension of your vision A client’s feeling of the environment plays a major role in whether or not they find your business to be a good match, and if they will return.

Your environment is an extension of you, and a vital component of your vision. The products that you retail, the reading material in the lobby and the professional demeanor of your receptionist are all a reflection of what you believe in and how you believe that a business should function. A client’s feeling of the environment plays a major role in whether or not they find your business to be a good match, and if they will return. A clean, organized, composed environment sends the message that your skin care services will be equally poised.

Synergy Everything in your business should be interrelated to your vision, concept and philosophy. Providing a common thread between the technology that you use, the products that you retail, and the unique services you provide is crucial for clients to understand so that it is clear that there is logic, science and purpose to each phase of your regimen and professional services. Offering referrals to a good network of other service providers, physicians, personal trainers, restaurants, etc., that share your vision of wellness is an excellent way to help your clients achieve a more complete and healthy lifestyle. Having healthy, happy clients will always have a great effect on the final result, your work. In addition, this network is an excellent way to share and build a larger loyalty base of like-minded clients.

Evolution As your business evolves, any modifications you make to your model should always take your loyalists into consideration first. For example, if you are thinking of changing your hours, prices or retail products, work with modifications that appeal to your loyalists. In short, remember that they are your business and cater to them. At the end of the day, being able to recognize your loyal core of clientele is crucial for success. Whether this is 5% or 15%, we are still talking about a very small, very manageable number of clients once we have them identified. While it is important to realize that we can only build from a strong, solid, consistent foundation of loyalists, growing this base is the next chapter of business success. n

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com. Page 88 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014

photo courtesy of Bio-Therapeutic

Keeping things simple, the easiest and best way to keep your clients satisfied is to spend time listening to them and discussing their results, concerns and the details of their unique strategy. This includes developing future pathways, benchmarks and objectives that are clearly defined as far as 6 months to a year down the road. Truly understanding every client’s life dynamics will also help you ensure that your clients are looking their best for every important event. These details will ensure consistently amazing looking skin, and above all, demonstrate to your clients that you care about them and have gone the extra distance to make certain that they will always look and feel beautiful and healthy.


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business

creating an effective video

Savvy Spa Marketing with YouTube Picture this: In less than 90 seconds you have “sold” your business to thousands of prospective clients, and all they did was watch a YouTube video that you created on your own—for free! It does not take an expert filmmaker to make a short and compelling video these days, and there is no doubt that social media—and YouTube especially—are key players in today’s business world. YouTube can be one of your best allies—it is cheap and effective! Think of it as an online public relations site with wide distribution, where you can talk to new and existing customers directly. And best of all, people can access it from their favorite gadget that they cannot live without—their phones.

Focus on the video’s goal

photo: Shutterstock.com

Before launching into the video marketing adventure, make sure to narrow down what it is that you are trying to accomplish: a fast tour of your spa, an exciting presentation of your staff, a lively demonstration of a treatment or endorsements from your loyal clients. Think about your targeted customer. Is it an existing spa devotee or someone new to skin care services? Will the video be educational, entertaining or both? Put yourself in the client’s shoes and imagine what would grasp their—let’s face it—very short attention span. 4

by Louis Silberman

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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business|savvy spa marketing with youtube

thing that may take the viewers’ attention away from what you want them to focus on. Keep a steady hand, use a tripod or place the recording device on a table or shelf.

Abbreviate Keep it short. YouTube is about going right to the point, and YouTube viewers do not like to waste their time. A minute and a half is plenty, and if you have more to say or show, break it into segments.

When the concept of video sharing is applied to marketing, its popularity is easily discerned. Viewers feel more comfortable when they see purchasable items and services beyond a one-dimensional image. Find the perfect spot and cast With that idea in mind, go hunting. Find the perfect location, pleasing yet not overbearing, hushed but not so silent that your business will seem dead. Then go hunting some more and pick the perfect “cast” for your upcoming short film. It need not be an intricate production, but take into consideration how some pitch tones— too high or too low—and the attire and overall presentation of your staff (if they are the focus of your film) can “affect” a viewer’s response to the video and ultimately your spa. If client testimonials are what you are going for, find guests who are naturals in front of the camera, enjoy the attention and do not “freeze” when you press the red button. Do a few test shots to get a better idea of what your video needs to capture and what needs to be in the frame. Forget anything from the waist down—and any-

How-to: From makeup application to skin care tips, there are hundreds of how-to video opportunities that will provide your customer with the information they want while the name of your facility is up front and center. This is a great opportunity to showcase the specific skills of your staff and turn them into “in demand” employees for techniques that only they seem to master. Product and service demos: Videos are also perfect to showcase the ease and efficacy of equipment as well as treatment outcomes. For example, a microdermabrasion demonstration, which can instantly smooth skin texture and tone, can get customers excited about what it can do for their own skin. Entertainment: Do not rule out the occasional well-done entertainment video. Though they might be created “just for fun,” entertainment videos are also a soft, clever way to introduce new staff members, products or treatments. Inspirational: Why do millions of people watch cute YouTube videos of babies and puppies? Because they want to feel good. So, why not use the opportunity to give them what they want, a video that will melt their hearts and inspire them, attached to your company’s name and logo? YouTube is an invaluable tool, especially in this visual, results-driven industry. According to the 9 year old company, an estimated 1 billion people watch as many as 6 billion hr of videos monthly. Online video users, Cisco (the mega network corporation) forecasts, are expected to double by 2016. To be sure, YouTube is one of the most popular social media platforms out there, and you should not miss out on it. continues

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photo: Syda Productions/Shutterstock.com

Popular types of videos


“Inspired by nature... Realized by science.” Plant & Fruit Stem Cells

Apple

Edelweiss

Strengthens and protects skin cells

A potent anti-wrinkle treatment

Grape

Protects from UV rays and environment stress

Orange

Minimizes fine lines/wrinkles, cellular regenerator

+ Peptides Argireline® – Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Matrixyl® – Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 Syn®-Coll – Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Regu®-age – Soy Peptides, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract Eyeliss™ – Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Rigin™ – Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Aldenine® - Tripeptide-1 Snap-8™ – Acetyl Octapeptide-3 Syn-Ake® – Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate Nutripeptides® – Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Matrixyl® synthe’6™ - Palmitoyl Cyclodextrin-38 Eyeseryl® – Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Stem Cells & Peptides Skin Care Technology Here to Stay Plant & Fruit stem cells have represented a major breakthrough in skin care, launching the beginning of a new system of treating the skin. With their ability to strengthen, protect, and replenish human skin cells, skin care has never had more potential to improve skin health and the appearance of aging skin. As Stem Cell Technology has gained popularity, Peptides have quietly remained a fixture in age-corrective skin care products. Their ability to stimulate different functions in the skin such as stimulating Collagen production, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, muscle cell contraction, and developing the dermal layer of the skin is unmatched. With both technologies working synergistically, we’ve been committed to using a wide range and high concentrations of both to formulate some of the finest, result-driven skin care available.

LUCR È C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ A E S T HE TIC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.lu cre ce .co m Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card


business|savvy spa marketing with youtube

YouTube is a powerful marketing opportunity for any business, but for the skin care professional, its benefits are immeasurable. All you need is a video camera or recording device, a little creativity and planning. When the concept of video sharing is applied to marketing, its popularity is easily discerned. Viewers feel more comfortable when they see purchasable items and services beyond a one-dimensional image.

Keep going Once you have created and uploaded your videos— sign on to YouTube and click Upload—do not stop there! Think of ways to market it at every angle. Add or link it to your website and promotional materials; tell clients in person about the exciting, free information you have on YouTube. Carefully consider the text description you provide for your video so that customers looking for skin care advice can easily find you. Use keywords that accurately describe your video and draw in potential customers.

Uploading your video and linking it to your website is easy. Simply log in or register with Google and click on YouTube Settings. You will be asked to verify ownership of your website domain, then YouTube will take you step-bystep through the uploading process. You can also add your URL to the video’s description. Of course, if you have any questions about the process, there are hundreds of YouTube videos to walk you through it! YouTube is a powerful marketing opportunity for any business, but for the skin care professional, its benefits are immeasurable. All you need is a video camera or recording device, a little creativity and planning. With these elements, you too can produce videos with the potential for big returns. Use YouTube to show your customers just how beautiful they can be. Ready? And… action! n Louis Silberman is president and founder of National Laser Institute, the largest cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training center in North America. An expert in medical esthetics, Silberman is a medical spa owner and nationally recognized author, marketing speaker and business consultant. Contact Silberman at 800.982.6817 or louis@nlionline.com.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #317 on reader service card

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celebrity invitational

BIZnews

Make My Day Beautiful!® sponsored the Frank Sinatra Celebrity Invitational at the Fantasy Springs Resort in Indio, CA. At the fashion show luncheon, 480 of Barbara Sinatra’s guests, including many famous faces, applauded fabulous fashions. Each guest received gift bags containing Make My Day Beautiful!’s It’s Good To Be Green® Hydrating Cleanser and Shave Gel System. (L to R: Actor Joe Mantegna, Founder/ CEO of Make My Day Beautiful!® Linda Litzinger Beck, event emcee, comedian Tom Dreesen.) All proceeds benefited the Barbara Sinatra Children’s Center in Rancho Mirage, CA. makemydaybeautiful.com 209.772.3305

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

small biz boost Sacramento-based niche marketing company Salon Success Strategies launched its Project Success, a DIY platform, set to revolutionize the way practitioners in the beauty industry market themselves and grow their business, says the company. The platform, Salon Business Today, delivers a variety of essential, easy to use marketing tools to anyone in the beauty industry—such as customized monthly postcards, flyers and emails, social media posts and images, as well as marketing ideas, instructions and support. The platform also features affordable custom mobile app support. salonsuccessstrategies.com 916.775.3127

new locale The newly opened B Indulged® by Aveda, located at B Resort in Orlando, FL, is a serene fullservice spa that offers a wide range of massage, skin care and body treatments, as well as nail, hair, waxing and makeup services. Dedicated to pampering guests by offering highly customized experiences and all natural products, the spa features treatment rooms and a complete hair, nail and makeup salon. The complete lines of Aveda hair, skin, lifestyle and makeup products are available at the retail area. The specialty spa menu features organic cuisine that includes fruit smoothies, fresh salads, infused waters and specialty sandwiches. bresortlbv.com 407.828.2828

15 year celebration Cuccio Naturalé celebrates its 15 year anniversary with its line of high quality spa products for the hands, feet and body that continues to help change the way salon owners do business, says the company. “I am excited about the 15 year anniversary of Cuccio Naturalé,” said Anthony Cuccio, CEO of the company. “In that time we have raised the bar, as the Cuccio brand is now viewed globally as the highest perceived value product available in spas and salons.” cuccio.com 800.762.6245

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organic & wellness the great outdoors by Laura D. Kain

Ah, summer! The gentle rays warming up the earth, the fluttering butterflies, the chirping birds and the fresh air… For many people, the sunny season calls for the great outdoors. For spa owners and directors alike, it is time to redouble efforts and lure clients out— out for open-air treatments.

Set up a tent, a cabana or a pagoda. It can be an elaborate installation or a modest setting, anything to shield your guests from the elements and direct sunlight.

photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com

The yearn for nature Outdoor spa treatments are gaining popularity, and it makes sense. People spend the majority of their time confined within four walls. It can be stressful, suffocating even, and a yearning to be outside can be very strong. And there is more. “Spa goers are becoming more aware of the ingredients used in their treatments, particularly seeking natural, organic and local ingredients,” says Michael Tompkins, CEO of Miraval Resort and Spa in Tucson, AZ. “It makes sense that as they seek a greater connection with and appreciation for natural products, that they would also seek an overall experience that is more attuned with the environment.”

The open-air room So what constitutes an outdoor treatment area? Anything. Let your imagination flow and take full advantage of your location. For some it is a no brainJuly 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

er—dramatic mountain views, lush and colorful tropical forests, or the vast blue of the ocean simply call for open-air services. These are natural delights for the eyes, and clients will enjoy nodding off and awakening from their treatments in these surroundings. For others, a little bit of creativity can go a long way—rooftop services in the middle of a bustling city, garden paradises in the suburbs or even a simple terrace adorned with pots and plants. “Focus on creating a treatment that captures the true essence of your spa that is unlike any other,” says Jaime Huffman, spa director of the Omni Grove Park Inn in

Asheville, NC. “Ask yourself, ‘how can this treatment experience create an even more magical memory for your spa guests?’” Set up a tent, a cabana or a pagoda. It can be an elaborate installation or a modest setting, anything to shield your guests from the elements and direct sunlight. But make sure to keep an open view to the outdoors. Adorn the room with fragrant flowers or plants, and most importantly invest in air conditioning units to keep the temperature under control—in the winter, heaters can turn outdoor treatments into a year round experience. “Guests seem to like this treatment even better continues lneonline.com • Page 97


organic & wellness|the great outdoors

Here are some typical outdoor treatments: Water: Whirlpools, bathtubs and showers can be an open-air treat. The Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort and Spa in Scottsdale, AZ, offers an aquatic Watsu® treatment in their outdoor Watsu pool that allows guests to float in the water (60 min, $170). Massage: This is perhaps the most sought after service when it comes to the outdoors. The Chatham Bars Inn features the Cabana Massage, where botanical hydrolats are misted onto the skin and worked into the body before ending with cool stones on the face and a head and neck massage (60 min, $140).

Body and face treatments: Facials, hand and foot care (including reflexology), as well as any other type of body treatments such as scrubs and detox wraps can be part of open-air services. The Miraval Resort and Spa offers the Ginger Healer, an exclusive outdoor treatment that includes a deep tissue massage, followed by a ginger salt glaze scrub (75 min, $230). Acupuncture and fitness treatments such as Yoga and Pilates can also be great additions to your outdoor treatments menu. The Four Seasons Resort Hualalai in Kailua-Kona, HI, offers outdoor fitness sessions such as the Gentle Yoga, an initiation to yoga that focuses on breathing exercises (60 min, $20).

Night treatments: If your facility features late evening treatments, nighttime services can add to the charm of being pampered outside when the moon and stars are glistening. The Jamaican Inn in St. Ann, Jamaica, offers the Couples Moonlight Massage, where guests are taken on a twilight voyage in a candlelit setting, before being treated with two glasses of sparkling wine (120 min, $300). The Spa at ONE Bal Harbour in Miami, FL, features the Cabana Massage, where guests can enjoy the Atlantic ocean’s breeze and Florida’s sunshine ($40 add-on to the massage of choice).

Laura D. Kain is the regional director of spa operations at Innovative Spa Management (ISM). She is currently in charge of the transition and re-launch of The Spa at ONE Bal Harbour in Miami, FL. Kain has 13 years of experience in the luxury hospitality industry. Page 98 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014

photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com

when it is raining or snowing, as it provides more sights and soothing sounds during the treatment,” says Huffman. Choose light fabrics that are brought to life with a passing breeze, or materials that are in harmony with nature such as bamboo, wood or even sturdy palm leaves and colors that marry your theme. Price it right. At the Chatham Bars Inn in Cape Cod, MA, outdoor and indoor treatments fall under the same price. They are the same services with a different backdrop, says Spa Director Heather Deveau. At the Omni Grove Park Inn, open-air treatments come at an additional $50 for the breathtaking view of the mountains. n


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organic & wellness

Wisdom from the land

“All plants are our brothers and sisters,” says the Arapaho proverb. “They talk to us and if we listen, we can hear them.” For centuries the Native American people have used indigenous herbs in various aspects of their lives, to make clothing and bags, to heal ailments and to invoke the spirits during their rituals. Some plants even have godly attributes, and legends on their sacredness abound. Tribes revered the animals, the wind, the water, fire, the earth and rocks they walked on. It is a deep connection with nature and the elements that modern man has lost yet yearns to get back to. At a time when Asian inspired treatments for the Far East’s spirituality and Zen continue to thrive in spas around the world, some are choosing to honor the people of the Nations of America, their traditions and beliefs. 4

by Nathalie Gouillou

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Inner Quest Treatment, courtesy of Mii Amo Spa at Enchantment Resort in Sedona, AZ

Native American inspired treatments 

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organic & wellness|wisdom from the land

Smudging can be done with a bundle of sage or other herbs, and can be worked into a treatment as a form of preparation.

The quest for the spiritual If people have long reveled in the overall state of well-being brought on by varying spa treatments, today they want more—they seek a true mind and body experience, a sense that perhaps if their bodies are released of the tension or ailments that beset them, it is not only thanks to the therapist’s touch but to the mystical powers of the salves, herbs and stones that have been used. “More of our guests are looking for some form of healing or to find gratitude in their lives through Native American traditions,” says Serene Sanders, spa director of Mii amo at Enchantment Resort in Sedona, AZ. Incorporating Native American inspired services into your spa menu can be an effective way to awaken your clientele’s curiosity, attract new customers, quench people’s thirst for the spiritual and perhaps spruce up a stale list of offerings. But

before going head on into the Native American inspired trend, directors of spas renowned for their treatments influenced by customs of the surrounding nations offer the following words of advice: Do your research, speak to local Native Americans and honor the integrity of their culture.

Sacred smoke Ceremonies that involve prayers and smoke are often what come to mind when one thinks of Native American practices. Many of us have heard of the herb burning ritual—known as smudging— to cleanse a place or person of all negative energy. When used for people, the act is believed to bring them to another level of consciousness, purify them and open them up to the healing techniques. Smudging can be done with a bundle of sage or other herbs, and can be worked into a treatment as a form of preparation—perhaps

photo courtesy of The Spa at Loretto

The Spa at Loretto also offers the Sacred Journey Package.

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The different varieties of sage (desert sage, white sage or Lakota sage among others) are believed to have purifying properties. the herbs can be burned before the treatment begins. The Spa at Loretto in Santa Fe, NM, offers the Native Reflections, which starts off with sage clearing and blessings before continuing with a bath infused with sage oil, followed by a stone massage (110 min, $265). Dried herbs could also be burned in a dish to recreate what happens in a sweat lodge—when they are placed on the scorching rocks to produce smoke—and left to burn during the treatment itself.

photo courtesy of SKA:NÁ Spa at Turning Stone Resort

Hot stone massage Bodywork traditions are also present in Native American cultures. Ancient bonesetters’ customs are reminiscent of chiropractic, and the old habit of warming stones to assuage muscle pain can be found today in what is commonly known as a hot stone massage—the practice is also found in other cultures. While the undertaking might seem rather straightforward—heat up some stones and lay them on your client’s back to relax muscles or gently massage their shoulders with them— some additional aspects need to be taken into consideration, from the choice of stones to the manner in which they are heated and how to sanitize them. Typically a massage therapist will need some training in stone massage and the stone of choice is the volcanic basalt, a smooth black rock that retains heat well. The stones can be washed in warm soapy water with a gentle scrub to remove the residues, impurities and oil left from a previous treatment, before being warmed in a professional stone heater at high temperatures of up to 150 °F. The Spa at Arizona Biltmore in Phoenix, AZ, features the Dream Catcher Aromatherapy Massage, where guests are treated to a blend of essential oils, and hot stones are placed along their spine while they get a thorough foot massage (80 min, $210). continues

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Ska:ná Spa at Turning Stone Resort and Casino

Spas that offer Native American inspired treatments The Sagestone Spa & Salon at Red Mountain Resort in St. George, UT The Four Directions treatment embraces the four directions of the medicine wheel, where each direction is explored. Guests experience the smudging ritual, select an animal totem to represent them and are treated to a full body cornmeal and tobacco exfoliation, a cedar wood massage and a sweet grass wrap to bring peace and good spirits to the healing (75 min, $165). Mii amo Spa at Enchantment Resort in Sedona, AZ The Spirit of the Full Moon is offered specifically on days around a full moon, a powerful time to let go of things that no longer serve our lives. The treatment begins with guests writing down thoughts and feelings they want to release. Then a scalp massage is administered to help free the mind from tension, followed by a full body massage with wild Arizona sage that has been infused with the light of the full moon. A foot massage with frankincense finishes it off (90 min, $250). Ska:ná Spa at Turning Stone Resort and Casino in Verona, NY (in the Oneida Nation) The Strawberry Body Polish is a body treatment inspired by the Annual Strawberry ceremony, an important tradition in the Oneida culture, which honors the first berry to ripen and the leader of all plant medicines. This fruity treatment offers a gentle exfoliation and moisture for the skin (50 min, $115).

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organic & wellness|wisdom from the land Body treatments Facials of all kinds, body scrubs and wraps with a Native American inspired theme can easily be introduced into your menu simply by choosing plants, herbs, spices and stones that hold a special place among the people of the Nations, not only for their power and cleansing properties but for their aromas. The different varieties of sage (desert sage, white sage or Lakota sage, among others) are believed to have purifying properties; sweet grass, tobacco leaves, corn, copal resin and star anise can be used for blessings, and bear root (also known as osha plant) for protection. At the Waldorf Astoria Spa at the Boulders Resort in Carefree, AZ, the Turquoise Wrap— based on Native American beliefs in the protective properties of turquoise stones—consists of warm turquoise clay used to revitalize the skin after a desert salt exfoliation (80 min, $210).

Inipi The purification ritual of the sweat lodge, known as Inipi, to live again, in Lakota—what is commonly thought of as the Native American’s version of the sauna—is a service that is a bit more laborious to implement, not only because the lodge itself must be recreated but because essentially Inipi is a sacred ceremony that aims for spiritual rebirth, as opposed to being a body centered treatment. The sweat lodge typically consists of young trees placed in a circle to form a dome shape that is covered with hides. At the center, a fireplace is created where hot rocks—heated outside on a fire pit—are brought in. Sage, tobacco and sweet grass can be burned to purify the lodge, and water poured on the rocks to create steam. The Ska:ná Spa at Turning Stone Resort and Casino in Verona, NY, was perhaps one of the rare spas in the United States that offered an authentic sweat lodge experience complete with drumming and chanting. The Kinan Spa at the Belmond Maroma Resort & Spa in Maroma Beach, Mexico, features a Temazcal—a Mayan sweat lodge, a domed structure made out of stone or mud—which ritual has similarities with the Native American Inipi. Offered at dusk, the ceremony has guests sit in the Temazcal where heated volcanic rocks are doused with herb-infused water before they are led to the sea for a cool cleansing plunge (90 min, $120). Mii amo’s Inner Quest offers an alternative to the sweat lodge experience by wrapping guests in blankets (to recreate the heat) and burning sweet grass as a smudging ritual (1 hr, $250). “Find your own story and build your spa and treatments around that story,” says Shane Bird, director of spa operations at Turning Stone Resort and Casino. “That is what guests want to see! They want authenticity and a story that they can learn about and be immersed in.” n Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at nathalie@lneonline.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #166 on reader service card

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organic & wellness

Here are two simple breathing exercises you can bring into your practice to start off every treatment.

the wind of life photo: GlobalStock/istockphoto.com

how to anchor your client with conscious breathing Breath is life. For centuries, healing and spiritual systems around the world have emphasized the importance of breathing for wellbeing, to bring peace and serenity within oneself and to promote awareness. Breathing techniques of the ancient Chinese healing method,

Qigong, and the yoga art of breath, Pranayama, accentuate the power of inhaling and exhaling to channel and appease the energy of the body and mind. Eastern and Western meditative traditions also rely on the steady, rhythmic flow and observation of the breath. 4

by Robert Sachs July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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Invite mindful breath Affected by emotions and circumstances, breath changes when one is happy, sad or angry—it becomes laborious under stress and allows for negative energy to take over. But it is possible to consciously use breath to bring back peace, serenity and balance—an invaluable tool for the spa therapist. Indeed, as clients walk in for their treatments after an exhausting day of work, an upsetting phone conversation or the draining power of modern transportation, their bodies and minds are not truly prepared for the services they are about to receive. And they may only begin to let go halfway through the session or when it is about to end. Starting off your services with some fast and easy breathing exercises could be a great way to bring the client’s focus back to now and open them up to reap the full benefits of your treatments. With a calm spirit brought on by concentrating on steady

breathing, the client will experience the feeling of being cared for on a deeper level, leave with greater satisfaction and return for more! Here are two simple breathing exercises you can bring into your practice to start off every treatment.

Baby breath One of the first tasks is to help your client carry their breath deeper into their lungs and body. This can be accomplished by getting them to breathe abdominally. People struggle with breathing down into their bellies, even though this is how babies breathe. So here is a simple exercise to help your client regain their original breath. While the client is sitting in a chair or lying on their back on the massage table, position their feet flat on a surface. If on a table, have them draw up their knees so the feet are on the table. Ask them to grip the surface with their toes and breathe in,

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photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com

Ask them to grip the surface with their toes and breathe in, relax the toes and breathe out. In Ayurveda, the idea is that wherever one directs the attention of the body and moves even slightly, the breath follows.


organic & wellness|the wind of life

relax the toes and breathe out. In Ayurveda, the idea is that wherever one directs the attention of the body and moves even slightly, the breath follows. These are called upward and downward moving winds in the principle of Vata Dosha. When the toes grip as described, the downward winds are activated, and one naturally breathes down into the belly. Have your client do this several times as they become aware of their breath going down into their belly. This will create an immediate and deeper connection with their breath.

Alternate nostril breathing Here is an exercise from the Tibetan tradition of Pranayama to help overcome negative emotional patterns. It is a form of alternate nostril breathing. You can sit and practice with your patient or walk them through it (perhaps you could practice alone beforehand to get a really good grip on it). In Pranayama yoga there are two channels that are associated with the left and right nostrils. Each is also identified by a color and a gender: red and female (right nostril), white and male (left nostril). Each channel starts off from the central channel, known as Shushumna—located somewhere below the navel—and travels up the body, passes through the neck, over the brain and ends in its respective nostril. Although these channels wrap and bind at various points to form what are called the chakras (energy points in the body) in this exercise, have your client visualize the channels as straight, thin hollow tubes. The purpose of this Tantric practice is to release the pressure in the outer channels so that the energy travels smoothly in the central channel.

1

Instruct your client to visualize the central channel below the navel, where the white and red channels begin. Tell your client to imagine that the white channel inserts into the red channel (the red tube is seen as larger than the white tube).

2

Have them block their right nostril with their right index finger and inhale through the left nostril (white/male channel). Tell

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

them to imagine that the air they are breathing into their left nostril is pure and fresh and that it is being carried through the white channel down to the central channel, where both channels (red and white) meet.

3

When the client visualizes the air entering the red channel (remember the white tube inserts into the red one), instruct them to let go of the right nostril and with their left index finger block the left one. As they exhale, tell them to visualize that the pure, fresh air is pushing out what is unclean and contaminated. As they breathe out, tell them to release the poison of attachment and clinginess. These negativities leave through the right nostril.

4 5

Have them repeat this twice more. After this, allow them to breathe deeply through both nostrils and to visualize the red channel (female/right nostril) as being luminous and purified.

Instruct the client to breathe in through both nostrils so that pure and fresh air goes down the red and white tubes to the central channel. As they exhale, the air cleanses the central channel and pushes ignorance and confusion out of the region of the third eye.

Now have your client repeat steps one through four to cleanse the white channel (male/left nostril). Have them start off by blocking the left nostril and inhaling. Again, once the fresh, pure air gets to the central channel, have them switch nostrils and exhale through the right. Now the white channel is purified as well.

6

Now ask them to visualize Shushumna, the central channel. It is blue and goes up the body and ends at the third eye (on the forehead). Have them picture both white and red channels inserted into the blue channel. Have them place their hands on their lap, allowing for the right hand to rest in the palm of the upturned left hand. The thumbs then touch each other to form a triangle. With their hands as such, instruct them to raise them enough so that the navel is the center of this triangle.

7

Instruct the client to breathe in through both nostrils so that pure and fresh air goes down the red and white tubes to the central channel. As they exhale, the air cleanses continues

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organic & wellness|the wind of life

mind, let go of negativity and prepare to truly gain the benefits of the treatments they are about to receive. When our breath is calm and peaceful, we are calm and peaceful. We can appreciate life on a deeper level. Thus, what better way to start off the spa experience with your clients than by reclaiming the essence of life—breath? n

Teaching your clients how to do this exercise and regain their baby breath are excellent ways to help them get in tune with their body and mind, let go of negativity and prepare to truly gain the benefits of the treatments they are about to receive. the central channel and pushes ignorance and confusion out of the region of the third eye.

8

Repeat two more times. Have them lower their hands, breathe normally and experience the central channel as a luminous blue. Tibetan Ayurveda teaches that transforming attachment, anger, confusion or ignorance is fundamental to our overall sense of well-being. Teaching your clients how to do this exercise and regain their baby breath are excellent ways to help them get in tune with their body and

Robert Sachs is a counselor, licensed massage therapist and educator. He is the author of Tibetan Ayurveda: Health Secrets From the Roof of the World and coauthor with Melanie Sachs of Ayurvedic Spa. Visit Sachs’ website at DiamondWayAyurveda.com, email him at ayurveda8@earthlink.net, call him at 866.303.3321 or phone/fax him at 805.543.9291.

COMING NEXT MONTH

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ALL MEN’S GUIDE Coming in August all the latest on how to market and cater to male clients. Don't miss out on this expanding segment of the spa industry!

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ORGANIC & WELLNESSnews

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Makes Scents Natural Spa Line introduced its Organic Spiked Lemonade Sugar Scrub, a vegan and cruelty free product made with organic sugar cane, lemon oil and a small batch of whiskey. The organic cane juice contains natural alphahydroxy acids to exfoliate the skin, while vitamin C packed lemon essential oil brightens and firms the skin, says the company. Put the refreshing experience of freshly squeezed lemonade on sultry summer days at your fingertips! makesscentsspaline.com 717.824.3094

gentle SPRITZ Repêchage’s newly formulated Algo Mist Hydrating Seaweed Facial Spray now comes with a kick of citrus and organic aloe. The spray is an express ticket to hydrated, healthy and cool skin, says the company. Rich in trace elements, mineral salts and orange water, the spray influences the enzymatic processes and aids in targeting spots and blemishes. The organic aloe has anti-inflammatory, soothing and healing properties. repechage.com 800.248.SKIN

GOODNESS FROM THE SEA Dermaesthetics’ Sea Herb Gommage is an exfoliant made to polish away dead skin cells and remove deeply embedded debris within the skin, says the company. The soothing cream is power blended with a mixture of vital skin nutrients and lactic acid to nourish the skin while unveiling a smoother complexion. Seaweed extract purifies and removes toxins while vitamin E and shea butter provide moisture. dermaestheticsusa.com 714.879.6788

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image

five minutes and five products to fabulous

by Tim Maurer

After 3 insanely busy decades as a makeup artist, I have witnessed a radical revolution from my clients. Women want the most efficient and simplistic routine to attain fabulous. The following tutorial is a step-by-step guide. Five minutes! Five products to fabulous! In order to accomplish this soughtafter session, you have to assess your client’s needs, wants, worries and dreams in yet another 5 min.

1

When your client sits in front of you, face completely bare, a gentle voice offering nurturing advice will go a long way. This is your chance to

There are so many foundation choices on the market. Choosing the right one for your client can be daunting.

survey all the good, and the maybe not so good. With your inner voice, create the quickest and most efficient map to perfection. You have just become their MapQuest guide to magnificent. Most clients want the quickest and most effi-

cient way to get a flawless finish. For this step-by-step, I used a cream to powder cosmetic as concealer, shadow primer, foundation and powder. There are so many foundation choices on the market. Choosing the right one for your client can be daunting. Here are a few suggestions: (from sheerest to fullest) • “Sheerest” tinted moisturizer or BB Cream • Sheer foundation • Powder foundation with blush continues

photography by Kelly M. Wagner

5

1

3

2

4

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image|five minutes and five products to fabulous

Lift the upper lash line while your client focuses on the floor. Apply mascara to the base of the lashes, touching the inner waterline.

• • • •

Cream to powder foundation Full coverage (liquid) foundation Powder foundation with sponge “Fullest” pancake foundation

2

I chose a blonde eye shadow with an angle brush to define the brows. Using a soft blending brush and the exact same product to define the hollow of the eye, I contoured the nose, cheekbones and jawline. I finished with an empty powder brush, blending any lines of demarcation away.

3

I opted for a waterproof gel liner pencil to define the upper lash and inside the waterline under-

neath. After blending, I added more definition under the lower lashes and applied it somewhat on the outer corner of the lid, and then blended it with my finger up into the crease.

4

I chose a cream to powder blush for the cheeks and temples. I manipulated the same product as a base lip color. As the product dried to a powder finish, I used the client’s lip gloss to finish the lips.

5

I used one of my favorite techniques with mascara to finish the look. Lift the upper lash line while your client focuses on the floor. Apply

mascara to the base of the lashes, touching the inner waterline. This gives the effect of using a pencil inside the eye without that step. As you can see in five steps and five products, our model hit glamorously gorgeous in 5 min. n Tim Maurer, president and creator of Mukha Custom Cosmetics and Mukha Essentials, is an internationally renowned makeup artist with more than 20 years of experience as a master esthetician. Driven by his passion for the art of makeup and the allure of healthy skin, Maurer’s mission is to raise the bar on the knowledge and application of makeup at today’s leading spas. Contact him at tmaurer@mukhaessentials.com or visit mukhaessentials.com.

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image

The

Wave Rave by Amanda Clinton Winter

photo: F mim/istockphoto.com

the latest tool to open up the eyes Nothing opens up the eyes like long, curled lashes. We learn that from an early age, as little boys and girls bat their lashes like fluttering butterflies to charm the world around them. Who can say no to those wicked eyes? It used to be that curlers and a thick coat of mascara or fake lashes were the remedy for those less naturally endowed in the curly lash department. Today, permed eyelashes are a great alternative to lash extensions or fillers for those women who are happy with the length of

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

their lashes but want that extra “wave” to open up the eye. It is a simple treatment that salons and spas should not be missing out on that will get anyone’s youthful look back.

Eye opener Eyelash perming—eyelash permanent wave, also referred to as lash lift—is a fairly new treatment that offers a simple and popular solution to straight lashes. Not only does it immediatecontinues

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image|the wave rave

Spas and/or salons that offer lash perming Ramirez Tran Salon in Beverly Hills, CA Ramireztran.com Lash Lift (40 min, $100). Lasts 2 to 3 months Technique used: silicon pads

Shizuka New York Day Spa in New York, NY Shizukany.com Eyelash Perm (60 min, $80). Lasts 4 to 6 weeks Technique used: rods

BeautiGoddess Lash Studio in Honolulu, HI Beautigoddess.com Lash Perm (50 min, $50). Lasts 6 to 8 weeks Technique used: rods

Honeys in Santa Barbara, CA ilovehoneys.com Lash Perming (20 min, $40). Lasts 4 to 8 weeks Technique used: clips Queen of Brows & Day Spa in Blue Ash, OH Queenofbrows.com Eyelash Perm (30 min, $50). Lasts 2 months Technique used: clips

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ly create a more “feminine and sexy” look, but it also boosts that youthful glow that your clients crave—men will also benefit from the younger look that eyelash perming offers.

Easy addition for salons and spas Lash perming is an easy treatment to offer that requires very little training (practice a few times on co-workers or some other willing participants) and a relatively low cost investment that could bring big revenues to your locale. Starter kits, no matter what technique or brand, cost around $100 and have an average of 20 applications. Priced at the minimum $40 per treatment, it yields a profit of $700. If you already offer lash and brow treatments, adding lash perming to your menu is a no brainer. Treatment time can last anywhere from 20 to 50 min, enough to offer additional services to your clients. Would they like a lip treatment or a hand massage while they wait

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for that sought after curl to take shape? Be creative! With their eyes temporarily shut, now would be a great time to appeal to your clients’ sense of smell and delight them with the aromas of your latest products. Depending on the technique and brand chosen, the perm will last anywhere from 1 to 3 months—a great way to create happy return guests! So what exactly does lash perming consist of? Let us break it down for you as we present the three most common techniques to perm lashes.

picked the size of the rollers with your advice, they must be gently bent. Rollers have adhesive on them, so make sure to grab them by the sides to fit the shape of the eyelids and trim as needed.

Eyelid silicon pads An alternative to the rods is the use of silicon pads—available in small, medium and large sizes—that follow the same principle as rods, except perhaps that the pads have a flat side that rests against the eyelid and does not have glue for the lashes to stick on.

Prep

Clips

Before any lash perming service—no matter what technique is chosen—advise your client to take off their contacts and remove all cosmetics from their eyes with a non-oily makeup remover to prevent any products from interfering with the perm. What differs among these three techniques are the devices used to create the wave on the lashes; the products themselves (although the quality will vary) and the steps are relatively similar.

Yet another way to create the curl is the use of clips that consists of two plates that will lock together and delicately “trap” the eyelashes. The device has an upper curved plate and pad that fits all eyelids, and some allow for a choice of three different sized plates to create that natural looking wave. The bottom plate is a grid of sorts (the grid allows for the lotion to be placed) that covers the upper plate, gently “pushes” the lashes on the curved plate and keeps them in place.

Rods The technique that is often thought of when it comes to lash perming consists of placing rods on the eyelids. Rods are available in different sizes, depending on the length of the lashes and the tightness of the curl desired. After the client has

Making the wave Most application consists of three products, a perm lotion, a setting lotion and a nourishing lotion. Technicians who choose to go with rods or silicon pads continues

left to right: Eyelid silicon pads, image courtesy of Cilsfrance; clips courtesy of SimplePerm

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image|the wave rave

will often cover the lower lashes and lids with pads to protect the solution from getting into contact with them—clips do not require such measures to be taken. With rods and pads, you need to gently place the lashes onto them so that they are straight and do not overlap. Lash glue is added with an applicator to keep the lashes in place. The perm lotion is applied first, followed by the setting lotion and the nourishing lotion that conditions the lashes. Each lotion must be removed before the other is spread. Some brands instruct that the eyes be covered with wet pads or a plastic film while the perm lotion is taking effect—which is not applicable with the clips method.

Eyelash perming tips

• •

• The eyelash perm lotion does not damage the lashes (unless the perm lotion was left for too long,

in which case the lash might frizz). Lashes will fall out and grow back as nature intended. Depending on the brand name you use, eyelash tinting may or may not be appropriate after a perm—some companies require a week before tinting can be done. Mascara can be applied right after the treatment. Eyelash perming cannot be combined with extensions— extensions can be applied about a week after the perm. Most brand names ask that the client avoids contact with water near the eyes for at least 24 hr after the treatment. Some brands advise against getting a perm if a lash growth product is being used—the product should be discontinued about 4 weeks beforehand.

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• Pregnant women should consult a physician before perming their lashes. • People with an eye infection, eyelid irritation, a rash or open sores around the eye area should refrain from getting a lash perm until the conditions have subsided. • People with eyeliner tattoo must wait at least a week post tattoo before getting a lash perm. • Always wear gloves during the treatment. n Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, MA and a master’s degree in Public Relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@lneonline.com.

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enhance your client’s beauty How remarkable would it be for your clients to have an under the knife appearance without actually walking into a doctor’s office? Highlighting and contouring is one of the hottest ongoing trends since winged eyeliner. It architecturally modifies the exterior and can accentuate or diminish features on the surface. It creates dimension for the triangle of light in the face, which includes the middle of the forehead, cheekbones, nose and chin. The application is only as good as the instruction. Follow these steps to put your client’s best face forward! 4

mirror: Stephen Chai/Shutterstock.com

by Olivia Smalley

Highlighting and Contouring July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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before

step 3 deep bronzer

step 4 bronze face

Your client’s makeup is only as good as the canvas. Prepping the epidermis daily with great skin care is imperative for even and consistent application. Advise your client to wash their face daily, exfoliate once a week and receive microdermabrasion treatment every 2 to 4 months. Apply makeup in natural light. When applying makeup to clients, have them sit by a window or in a room with natural light. This gives you the best idea of what your makeup application portrays to others, and how it will photograph. Yellow or fluorescent lighting will dramatically alter your client’s entire look! If your client is planning a night outing, skip the SPF. Titanium dioxide is among the main active ingredients of sunblock, and when photographed with a flash, it can create a ghostlike white or grey façade. The sunblock will prevent the contour from being captured in photographs. Choose the perfect foundation. Identify whether the skin is cool or warm. If the skin is yellow, it is very important not to use a pink. It will throw the whole look off. Apply the foundation to the entire face with a foundation brush or sponge and blend. Be sure to dapple the brush or sponge to create a skin-like texture. Seal with a translucent powder.

1

step 2 bronzer

step 1 foundation

step 5 concealor

2

Apply light matte bronzer. Avoid bronzers with shimmer to keep the look as “real” as possible. You can use more than one bronzer. Personally, I use two. One of them is two shades darker than my skin tone, and the other is three shades darker. With an angled flat brush, apply it slightly higher than the hollows of the cheeks and blend. Higher shadows will create lift in the face, instantly creating those “under the knife” results! Apply deeper bronzer to the inner point of cheeks. Pinch the angled brush or use a thinner bronzing brush and apply three shades of darker bronzer to the middle of the cheeks. This is a good technique if your client is being photographed for an evening outing or event. Apply bronzer around the face. Apply the lighter bronzer around the top temples of the forehead, outer edges of the nose and jaw line. This part should not be skipped. It makes all the difference when altering and controlling what the outcome will look like. Choose a concealer one to two shades lighter. Again, within the tone of skin, cool or warm. With the warmth of the brush or fingertips (better for blending), tap the concealer on the tops of the cheekbones. Blend the concealer outward without touching bronzed areas. Using a tapping motion with the concealer, graze the middle of the forehead, inside

3 4 5

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image|highlighting and contouring

step 6 translucent

step 9 blush

after

of nose and middle of the chin. Tip: Using the highlight on the bows of lips and mid-bottom lip will also draw light to those areas. Use a translucent powder again to seal in only the concealer. A yellowing or pink powder can work wonders to make this look complete. With a brush or sponge, collect a hefty amount of powder and apply to tops of cheekbones, middle of the forehead, inside of nose and middle of the chin. Leave the powder on to soak in for 5 to 20 min. This is the step that really sets the completed look. Brush powder off the face. Using a large brush, dust off the tops of cheekbones, middle of the forehead, inner side of the nose and middle of the chin. Notice how the look is starting to come together. Add more highlight with a bit of glow. Use a shimmer highlighter to enhance this creation and give the best J. Lo glow. This can also make contour look less “drag” and more sun-kissed. Again, with a brush or fingertips, dust or tap the iridescent shimmer over the tops of the cheekbones, middle of the forehead, inside of the nose and middle of the chin. If your client is feeling extra daring, also add it to the brow bone and the middle of the lips. Apply blush to make the cheeks pop! Cheek color is often skipped, although it is a very essential part of the completed look. With foundation, you eliminate

6 7 8

photos courtesy of Olivia Smalley

step 7 brush away

9

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

step 8 shimmer highlight

With foundation, you eliminate all color in the face. With contouring you control where the shadows recede. Highlighting brings things forward, and blush adds color to the face.

all color in the face. With contouring you control where the shadows recede. Highlighting brings things forward, and blush adds color to the face. Pinks and peaches work very well for most skin colors, but finding tone is where the professional makeup artist comes into play. Set the makeup with a setting spray (not pictured). Multiple types of spray include the original setting spray, a matte spray, oil-free spray, moisturizing spray and dewy finish spray. Setting sprays give the completed appearance a 30 min later look, when the makeup has settled in and partial natural oils have retracted to the face. Setting spray holds up well for all daytime escapades or all night excitement. Highlighting and contouring is a makeup must! Make your client beautiful in no time with just the right tools and product! n

Olivia Smalley is the founder and owner of OMG! Artistry, a freelance hair and makeup company. Smalley’s talents have been featured in the Florida Panthers Ice Dancers Calendar and Fort Lauderdale Fashion Week. She can be reached at info@omgartistry.com.

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photo: GlobalStock/istockphoto.com

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girl

Calendar

turning back time with makeup It is an art to restore youth in aging skin. Throughout history, women have tried every imaginable myth and method for turning back the clock. They have slathered their faces with animal fat, soaked themselves in milk and wine—even used toxic ingredients like lead and mercury. As a society, we have finally realized that the key to beauty longevity is a multifaceted lifestyle rather than a secret elixir. But even with the right diet, exercise and skin care regimen, makeup artistry still plays an important role in shedding years from one’s appearance. Visible aging is never intentional. No woman ever sets out to make herself look older; people just get stuck in what is familiar and do not know how to change. As professional makeup artists, our objective is to reevaluate our mature client’s skin and update her daily application with techniques that will enhance her skin texture, rather than cake or cover it. Do you recognize these telltale signs that a mature woman has not gained the courage to change her makeup after decades of the same look?

1

Overly matte foundation. In youth, the complexion is smooth and hydrated, and a matte liquid foundation is most often used to achieve a flawless canvas. As we age, the complexion becomes more textural, and there is a higher tendency for dry skin and larger pores. Because of this, the matte foundation is no longer the most flattering. It accentuates the texture of the skin, settling into fine lines and pores, looking dry rather than matte. Update your client to a more hydrating and luminous foundation to recover smoothness and ensure less caking throughout the day.

2

Dark eyeshadow in the crease of the eyelid. On youthful skin, applying dark eyeshadow in the crease of the eyelid gives depth and intensity. On mature skin, the eyelid is less firm, and dark eyeshadow in the crease draws attention to sagging skin. Update your client’s look by accentuating the outer eye rather than the crease. The darkest eyeshadow should be applied continues

by Shawn Towne

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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image|calendar girl

above: “bone” eyeshadow, “caramel” minerals, “bisque” loose powder; images courtesy of jane iredale

To camouflage mature skin texture, a good loose mineral foundation is an excellent tool. The individual particles reflect light in multiple directions to optically diffuse the appearance of the skin’s surface.

close to the lash line at the outermost corner of the eye to give a lifted effect. Dark eyeliner on the bottom lash line should also be avoided, as it draws the gaze downward and compromises the effect of well-placed shadow.

of exfoliation used can be determined by skin type and preference. Gentle scrubs with microbeads, mechanical cleansing brushes and skin peeling agents like retinol are all options your client can use at home.

3

Prime. Once the skin is clean and hydrated, use a primer to minimize texture and aid foundation adherence. Look for primers that disperse light to create a soft focus effect on the skin, or that use brightening ingredients like bitter orange and grapefruit extracts to minimize dark spots and discoloration.

Shimmer around the eyes and brow bone. In youth, the skin of the brow bone is firm and smooth, and it is very flattering to apply a sheer shimmering flesh tone to highlight the area. As one grows older, the skin on the brow bone often becomes more textural, sallow and weathered, meaning shimmer is no longer flattering there. In fact, it can actually accentuate the texture and look dated. Update your client to a matte, slightly lighter and more opaque flesh tone highlighter to smooth skin’s texture and create a fresh, clean finish.

4

Pink shimmer blush. Just as shimmer eyeshadow becomes less flattering, shimmer blush can further age the appearance of mature skin. A natural, sheer formula will glide on more easily without settling into creases throughout the day. When updating your client’s makeup to create a more youthful appearance, this step-bystep application can be used as the basis for creating many looks.

Exfoliate. Before applying any makeup, make sure that skin is clean and freshly exfoliated, with no dead skin on the surface. The type

Apply. Apply a skin-loving foundation that will enhance your client’s skin texture and appearance. A combination of ingredients like hyaluronic acid and Coenzyme Q10 can plump the surface of the skin to create a more youthful appearance. Camouflage. To camouflage mature skin texture, a good loose mineral foundation is an excellent tool. The individual particles reflect light in multiple directions to optically diffuse the appearance of the skin’s surface. The result is a smoother, more flawless face.

Highlight. To aesthetically optimize the structure of the face, use a good concealer to add light diagonally from the corner of the eyes to the hairline, along the tops of the cheekcontinues

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Apply a stain rather than a lipstick to ensure less feathering. Use a color that is close to the natural depth of the lips but slightly brighter, and use minimal pencil so as to avoid making the client look drawn on. bones. This will create lift. Also add light to the apples of the cheeks, down the center of the nose, inside the nasal labial folds and to the center of the chin.

Contour. To chisel out the shape of the face, use a natural looking bronzer to add depth around the outer perimeters of the face, under the cheekbones and jaw line. This will give a tighter, more pronounced look to the bone structure and add a healthy color to the complexion. Dust. Dust a light, bright blush into the apples of the cheeks and blend it upward and outward toward the hairline to give the face a fresh, youthful appearance. Use a color that is lighter and brighter than the skin for an illuminated look.

Enhance. Place your darker shadows in the outer corners of the eyes and blend them diagonally upward toward the temples in a parallel line with your highlighting. Make sure you leave no lines of demarcation but rather blended areas of depth. Enhance by placing a lighter color at the innermost corner of the eyes next to the nose to elongate the eye inward and open it up. Apply dark, intense liner on the top lash line, making the line thicker at the outer corner and thinner as it goes inward. Finish with black mascara on the top lashes only. Fill. A fuller, more youthful brow can be achieved by blending a pencil with soft, thin strokes under the brow in the front and above the brow at the end. Make sure to use a color

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

that is not too dark but rather a couple of shades lighter than the natural brow color.

Stain. A natural but fresh lip can have a very youthful appearance. Apply a stain rather than a lipstick to ensure less feathering. Use a color that is close to the natural depth of the lips but slightly brighter, and use minimal pencil so as to avoid making the client look drawn on. Gloss only in the center of the bottom lip to give a reflective quality without compromising the integrity of the color. Check out the latest trends shown in magazines, workshops and YouTube videos, and review an assortment of looks before deciding on one that is perfect for your client. Remember that makeup is a personal choice, and what works for some may not work for others. Most importantly, remember that although the professional is the expert at makeup, the customer is the expert at what she likes. n Shawn Towne, the global educator of jane iredale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP®, has worked as a makeup artist for more than 20 years. His talent has been featured in fashion magazines, runway shows, television commercials and feature films. Towne has worked with celebrities such as Mariel Hemingway, Eartha Kitt and Luke Wilson. He worked with the jane iredale team on the 2008 Fashion Week runway shows, and most recently taught classes in the Far East.

above: “barely rose” pure pressed blush, “mania” lip fixation, “oyster” eye shadow; images courtesy of jane iredale

lneonline.com • Page 123


melt away grime STREAK FREE gold

IMAGEnews

Paula’s Choice’s latest Sun 365 Self-Tanning Foam is a lightweight formula that offers an easy way to maintain a head-to-toe faux glow without worrying about tan lines, brown spots and wrinkles, says the company. The quick drying foam ensures a flawless application, a natural looking tan in 1 hr, has caramel coloring agents and is 100% fragrance free. paulaschoice.com 800.831.4088

Cailyn Cosmetics’ Dizzolv’it— Makeup Cleansing Balm is a makeup remover that dissolves sunscreen, foundation and even the most resilient waterproof makeup thoroughly to leave the skin clean, supple, luminous and radiant, says the company. The powerful antioxidant ingredients— papaya, acerola, aloe vera and calendula flower extract—soothe, refresh and indulge all at once! cailyncosmetics.com 562.356.9026

FABULOUS sheen

SOFT WASH Spa Find’s Balanced Beauty Stabilizer and Cleanser is a silky cream for normal, combination skin types and oily congested skin that needs a gentle deep wash, says the company. Formulated with plant extract of coltsfoot, marshmallow, wild thyme and witch hazel to deep-cleanse and balance the skin’s pH, it also contains active VMS Complex with pure Dead Sea minerals, vitamin E, B5 and chamomile to promote a hydrated, healthy complexion. devansassociates.com 902.221.8283

Kryolan’s latest Illusion is a versatile, lightweight cream with a gloss finish. For use as a highlighter or lip gloss, Illusion gives cheekbones, lips and other parts of the skin a beautiful shine, says the company. It contains mineral ingredient tin oxide, which forms the base of pearlescent pigments that gives Illusion its signature glamour and shimmer. us.kryolan.com 800.579.6526

Page 124 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


kissable colors Lady Burd’s Limited Edition Lip Tints offer natural looking lips with a touch of color. The easy to apply applicator makes it perfect for clients to take anywhere. The edition is available in 12 gorgeous shades. ladyburd.com 800.345.3448

TRAVEL COMPANION Coming out this month is jane iredale’s Refill-Me™ Refillable Loose Powder Brush, a self contained dispenser and brush that offers an easy, mess-free method to apply loose powder with exceptional coverage on the go, says the company. Made with a locking mechanism that prevents spilling, the brush is compatible with jane iredale’s Amazing Base®, Amazing Matte™ and Powder-Me®. janeiredale.com 800.762.1132

July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Tibby Olivier’s Beach Bum is a luscious natural and organic based formula that can wash and wear from as little as an hour, says the company. Beach Bum offers three unique 100% natural and organic based spa formulas without artificial fragrances, preservatives or other harsh chemicals that can irritate the skin. Treat your client’s skin to a honey dipped golden color! tibbyolivier.com 877.496.8966

FABULOUS BASE Eve Pearl’s Pearlfx HD Primer Moisturizer is a smoothing and hydrating primer that revives the skin and minimizes the signs of aging, says the company. The light, breathable formula leaves the skin feeling fresh and helps the makeup last all day. Loaded with vitamins B3, B5, E, collagen, olive oil and antioxidants, the crème brightens the skin. Good for all skin types and especially for sensitive and acne prone. evepearl.com 866.335.1550

IMAGEnews

CARAMEL GLOW

NAILS, MAKEUP, TOOLS and TRENDS

lneonline.com • Page 125


WEST | CENTRAL | EAST REGIONAL EDUCATION & ONLINE CLASSES

Calendar of Events

Learn on Location

West

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin—Tensive Advanced 2 day Training by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.

Skin—Tensive Advanced 2 day Training by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.

JULY 14

JULY 20

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Costa Mesa, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Riverside, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

JULY 13 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Costa Mesa, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Santa Monica, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Tucson, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

JULY 21

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Santa Monica, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Tucson, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Riverside, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Page 126 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


West Central East International

JULY 27

JULY 28

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. RA for Men and Body Products by Rhonda Allison. Santa Ana, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Anchorage, AK. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Anchorage, AK. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Central JuLY 13 Master the Art of Chemexoliation by Rhonda Allison. Schaumburg, IL. 866.313.7546.

July 14 Master the Art of Chemexoliation by Rhonda Allison. Schaumburg, IL. 866.313.7546. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. (True University) 877.PCA.SKIN.

JUly 15 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. (True University) 877.PCA.SKIN. continues lneonline.com • Page 127


calendar|central|east|online

Calendar of Events JUly 27 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

JUly 28

JUly 28

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Cincinnati, OH. 877.PCA.SKIN.

East

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

JUly 13 Master the Art of Chemexoliation by Rhonda Allison. Bloomfield, MI. 866.313.7546

An In-Depth Look at Melasma by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Customizing Daily Care Regimens by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Diminishing Deep Wrinkling by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Evening Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

onLINE EDUCATION

Exploring Intrinsic & Extrinsic Aging by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Permanent Makeup 6 Day Training Course by Beau Institute. Mount Laurel, NJ. 856.727.1411

ongoing

JUly 14

Addressing Adolescent Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST., 12 p.m. CST, 10 a.m. PST. hydropeptide.com/webinars

JUly 13-19

Master the Art of Chemexoliation by Rhonda Allison. Bloomfield, MI. 866.313.7546

JUly 27 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Cincinnati, OH. 877.PCA.SKIN.

A Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Alternate Therapies by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

Identifying & Treating Papulopustular Rosacea by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Investigating Impaired Barrier Function by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Page 128 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


calendar|online

Laser and Light Therapy by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Medical Esthetics by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities NaturaLash Level 1 Online Certification Class by NaturaLash. Online Course. 800.644.1297. naturalash.com/240.html Product Formulations as a Whole by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Scleroderma by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities July 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Shedding Light on UV-induced Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Simple Steps to a Booming Business by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Targeting Adult Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses The Daily Care Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses The Professional Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Treating Acne in Skin of Color by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

Trade Shows Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2014 September 7-8 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2014 October 19-20 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2015 March 1-2 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2015 April 26-27 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2015 September 20-21 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2015 October 25-26 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities lneonline.com • Page 129


advertisers’ index Page Number

Reader Service No.

37............... Aesthetic Ambassadors............................................. thecravecollection.com.................................................. 345 51............... Athena..................................................................... athenabeauty.com.......................................................... 162 95............... Bella Lash Extensions................................................ bellalashextensions.com................................................ 328 8................. Bella Schneider Beauty ............................................ bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................. 180 99............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................ 140 6,15............ Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com....................................................... 139 112............. Biomani................................................................... biomaniskincare.com..................................................... 276 29............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................ 335 115............. CilsFrance............................................................... cilsfrance.net................................................................... 131 9................. Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... circadia.com................................................................... 101 114............. Dr. Jeff..................................................................... dr-jeff.com...................................................................... .248 22,104........ Dr. Schrammek........................................................ drschrammek.us............................................................. .166 2-3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 30................Enspri...................................................................... enspriskincare.com.......................................................... 318 131............. Equipro................................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 19............... Fallene Skin Wellness.....................................................solarprotectionformula.com........................................... 305 47............... GlymedPlus............................................................. glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 45............... GrandeLASH-MD.................................................... grandewholesale.com...................................................... 286 39............... Harmonial.......................................................................harmonial.net................................................................. 281 7................. Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 16-17......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa.......... longbeach.skincareshows.com......................................... ...... 32-33......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa.......... philadelphia.skincareshows.com...................................... ...... 13............... Lady Burd......................................................................ladyburd.com................................................................. 119 52............... Lashbomb............................................................... lash-bomb.com............................................................... 280 11............... Le Mieux.......................................................................lemieuxcosmetics.com................................................... 294 93............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................lucrece.com.................................................................... .263 64............... Minkys..................................................................... minkys.com..................................................................... 236 109............. Misencil................................................................... misencil.com................................................................... 287 23............... PCA Skin.......................................................................pcaskin.com................................................................... 110 31............... PFB Vanish.....................................................................PFBVanish.com............................................................... 229 114............. PostQuam Professional................................................postquamusa.com.......................................................... 177 21............... Rapidlash.................................................................. rapidlash.com................................................................. 224 89............... Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................rejuvilab.com.................................................................. 149 38............... Rena Levi........................................................................renaleviskincare.com...................................................... 105 132............. Revitalash......................................................................revitalash.com................................................................ 346 94............... Rubber Ducky Sunscreen...............................................rubberduckysunscreen.com............................................ 317 116............. Sugar Streak............................................................ sugarstreak.com.............................................................. 309 5................. UltraLuxe........................................................................ultraluxeskincare.com..................................................... 116 41............... Universal Companies.....................................................universalcompanies.com................................................ 277 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

Page 130 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2014


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