Page 1

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

May 2014


Boldijarre Koronczay, President Éminence Organic Skin Care “Peels boast amazing transformation of the skin’s appearance but most of them contain harsh synthetic chemicals that can actually have damaging effects on the skin. We have formulated an all-natural peel that offers our customers the amazing results that they are looking for while being an effective and safe choice.”

See incredible results*: Restores radiance 80% Reduces fine lines and wrinkles 80% Reduces dark spots 80% Improves dullness 100%

*Percentage of respondents reporting at 4 weeks. Protocol included professional and at-home treatments. Clinically tested by an independent FDA Certified Laboratory.

Arctic Berry Peel & Peptide Illuminating System EXFOLIATE



Ask about our professional treatments.

Awaken the skin’s inner beauty with the innovative 3-step system that gives the skin a completely fresh start. Discover smooth, even and luminous skin.

THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1958 If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning organic skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE PROVIDER OF PREMIUM SKIN C ARE Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card




N U M BE R 5

Here Comes the Groom Renew the Complexion 28 Maximizing Collagen Synthesis36 Liquid Collagen Supplements 42 Skin Health for the Big Day 46 Skin News 50

Liquid Collagen Supplements what they are and how they can benefit your clients’ skin page 42

how to pamper the groom and turn him into a regular guest page 62


The Secret to Your Success? 54 Here Comes the Groom62 Scoping the Mind of a Physician67 Human Stem Cytokines Extract 68 The Art of Spa Packages72 Spa News 76

organic & wellness

Reap the Rewards

Stress Therapy 102 The Pitta Dosha104 Inner and Outer Glow108 Organic & Wellness News 111

create a profitable retail space in your spa page 82


When and How to Hire a Spa Consultant 80 Reap the Rewards82 Build a Makeup Business 86 How to Use Hashtags on Facebook and Twitter92 Simplicity96 Biz News 100


Royal Toe Treatment 113 Bridal Beauty Timeline114 Soft Spoken 117 Image News 124

Soft Spoken whisper of color for spring page 117

Inner and Outer Glow juicing with facials page 108


From the Editor6 Spa of the Month: Lake Austin Spa Resort, Austin, TX 10 Preview: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas, TX 21 The Glamour Look Photo Feature 56 Calendar of Events 126 Advertisers’ Index 130


courtesy of Dior

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

Page 4 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014


Healthy Skin Ahead.


After 3 weeks. Photo has not been retouched.


Come visit us:

Call Now for Information 1-818-898-9293 x233 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #116

•Dallas Show May 4-5 Booth #210 & 212

•Las Vegas Show June 21-23 Booth #113

UltraLuxe is a registered trademark of MINDYS Cosmetics Inc. All Rights Reserved

“We are continuously working to develop more products to cater to the diverse needs of our clients.” - Israel & Nate Dakar, Founders

from the

your business, your way... A Forward Thinking Skin Care line easily tailored to fit your vision, budget, backbar, and retail.

no minimum buy in. no contracts. no hassles.


May is the last full month of spring, and it is the start of a new season for LNE & Spa as we move forward with fresh ideas, perspectives and features. I have been a part of the LNE & Spa editorial team for the last six years, and today I am proud to announce that I am taking the reins as managing editor of this leading publication. I want to share with you how grateful I am to be part of the skin care and spa industry, as it truly improves lives by boosting the confidence and well-being of so many. The services and therapies the industry provides create a sense of contentment and serenity that is life changing to all who experience their impact firsthand. I enjoyed meeting many of you last month at The Inter­ national Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach, FL. I always welcome your ideas, insight and feedback. I look forward to partnering with you to support your professional growth and success by consistently remaining on the cusp of innovation in all elements of our industry. I invite you to continue learning from top leaders and make valuable connections this month by attending The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa conference in Dallas, TX at the Arlington Convention Center on May 4 and 5. Let’s meet at our famous barbecue party at the Sheraton Arlington Hotel on Sunday evening. Wishing you good energy in the last days of spring! n

—Amanda Clinton Winter,


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card

Page 6 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #346 on reader service card

3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 e-mail: Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter Art Director Sacha Smith Associate Editor Nathalie Gouillou Director of Sales Aché Fougere Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo Exhibitor Operations Manager Mayli Tenorio International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

Contributors Oyvind Berg Caroline Canetti Josie Feria Erin Ferrill Darlene Fiske Valarie Hurst Randy Miller, M.D.

Larry Pederson Anna Poniros John Renucci, M.D., F.A.C.S. Lyn Ross Nicole Rouse Robert Sachs Lydia Sarfati

Mara Shorr David Suzuki George Taylor, M.D. Pamela Taylor Kristina Valiani Amy Wall Jennifer Wild, D.O.

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #185 on reader service card

Page 8 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014


Activate your ‘BEAUTYGEN’ with the world novelty by DR. GRANDEL


rejuvenating & renewing For more information contact: USA – WEST call: 1-800-445-6364

USA – MIDWEST call: 1-800-826-1193 grandelusa_southeast@

USA – NORTHEAST call: 1-877-DRG-4SPA

USA – SOUTHWEST call: 1-800-729-1242

USA – SOUTHEAST call: 1-800-826-1193 grandelusa_southeast@

CANADA call: 1-800-561-3766 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #109




NESTLED ALONGSIDE BEAUTIFUL LAKE Austin in the scenic Texas Hill Country and only 30 minutes from downtown Austin, Lake Austin Spa Resort offers an award-winning destination spa experience that has been named number one in the country by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler, and as one of the best in the world by the readers of Travel + Leisure. Lake Austin Spa Resort is a popular destination for guests to relax with friends or to visit on their own, as the staff addresses their needs from head to toe. Guests enjoy a casual, relaxed continues Page 10 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

“Inspired by nature... Realized by science.” Plant & Fruit Stem Cells



Strengthens and protects skin cells

A potent anti-wrinkle treatment


Protects from UV rays and environment stress


Minimizes fine lines/wrinkles, cellular regenerator

+ Peptides Argireline® – Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Matrixyl® – Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 Syn®-Coll – Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Regu®-age – Soy Peptides, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract Eyeliss™ – Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Rigin™ – Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Aldenine® - Tripeptide-1 Snap-8™ – Acetyl Octapeptide-3 Syn-Ake® – Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate Nutripeptides® – Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Matrixyl® synthe’6™ - Palmitoyl Cyclodextrin-38 Eyeseryl® – Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Stem Cells & Peptides Skin Care Technology Here to Stay Plant & Fruit stem cells have represented a major breakthrough in skin care, launching the beginning of a new system of treating the skin. With their ability to strengthen, protect, and replenish human skin cells, skin care has never had more potential to improve skin health and the appearance of aging skin. As Stem Cell Technology has gained popularity, Peptides have quietly remained a fixture in age-corrective skin care products. Their ability to stimulate different functions in the skin such as stimulating Collagen production, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, muscle cell contraction, and developing the dermal layer of the skin is unmatched. With both technologies working synergistically, we’ve been committed to using a wide range and high concentrations of both to formulate some of the finest, result-driven skin care available.

LUCR È C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ A E S T HE TIC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • cre ce .co m Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card

spa of the month|lake austin spa resort

atmosphere that supports whatever their needs are for a spa getaway—whether it is a reunion with friends, a mother-daughter retreat, a girlfriends getaway or the start of a new fitness and nutrition regime. Groups of six or more receive

Groups of six or more receive significant savings and activities customized to their celebration. significant savings and activities customized to their celebration. Birthday parties, boat cruises, private cooking classes and together time on the spa’s treatment porch are just a few of the ways the resort can personalize a group experience. Gone are the days of restricted diets and boot camps. Today, the spa is not only home to executive chef Stephane Beaucamp and his flavorful meals, but also classes, activities and programs that will rejuvenate and enrich clients’ bodies from the inside out. continues

Page 12 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

Color Cosmetics... Skincare... Mineral Makeup... • Extensive Color and Formula Library • Full Manufacturing Facilities • Custom Formulations • Import/Export GMP Compliance • Low Minimums • Experience and Reliability


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2605 West Atlantic Avenue, Delray Beach, FL 33445, USA 1 (561) 272.2008 1 (866) 392.4889 1 (561) 272.2014 (FAX)


407 Lincoln Road, Suite 10J, Miami Beach, FL 33139, USA 1 (305) 674.1333 1 (800) 263.5743 1 (305) 674.1184 (FAX) ©2012, Lady Burd® Exclusive Cosmetics, Inc.

PLEASE VISIT US AT THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS & SPA DALLAS, TX, MAY 4-5 BOOTHS: 105 AND 107 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #119 on reader service card

Visit our website:


LakeHouse Facts

Outdoor treatment areas, such as the Bam­boo Room and Treatment Cabanas beckon relaxation surrounded by nature, and more than 100 unique and therapeutic treatments grace the menu at the resort’s 25,000-square foot LakeHouse Spa.

Vegetables and herbs used in cooking and in spa treatments are cultivated from the resort’s organic gardens by Trisha Shirey, the resort’s director of flora and fauna. Shirey, who also hosts local radio and television shows, shares her more than 29 years of experience with resort guests through garden tours, aromatherapy workshops and many other garden-inspired classes. For guests who are up for a challenge, there are plenty of fitness options to get their heart pumping, including water sports like stand up paddle boarding, kayaking, hydro-biking and sculling lessons. There are up to 20 classes a day. Hiking, Pilates, Zumba, BOSU®, yoga, cooking and nutrition are only a sample of what is offered on a daily basis by expert instructors. There are three swimming pools, where guests can do laps or join a water aerobics class. Relaxing under a cabana with an herbal iced tea and a favorite book is another popular poolside activity among guests.

The LakeHouse Spa features 20 indoor treatment spaces with private showers and a state-of-the-art sound system. The spa also has treatment cabanas and the Treatment Porch, which offers more unique opportunities for outdoor treatments. The LakeHouse Spa has a policy of 24 hours for day guests and 12 hours for overnight guests for any cancellations or changes to avoid being charged in full for the treatment. In order to maintain a relaxing environment for all of their guests, the LakeHouse Spa restricts cell phone use to the privacy of a guest room. A 20 percent service charge is automatically added to all à la carte services. The LakeHouse Spa is open 365 days a year, with appointments available between 9 a.m. and 9 p.m. Most of the body and skin care products used by skin care and spa specialists at LakeHouse Spa are available for purchase at the LakeHouse Boutique.

Outdoor treatment areas, such as the Bam­boo Room and Treatment Cabanas beckon relaxation surrounded by nature, and more than 100 unique and therapeutic treatments grace the menu at the resort’s 25,000-square-foot LakeHouse Spa. Spa director Robin Jones researches cutting-edge products and creates treatments that deliver long lasting benefits and real results. The Nourishing Avocado Sea Mud Masque (80 minutes, $220 with massage), Vitamin C Renewal (110 minutes, $325 with massage), Lakeshore Fig Scrub (80 minutes, $215 with massage) and Platinum Lift Facial (80 minutes, $225) are just a few of her latest innovations. For pure relaxation, there are many options to choose from, such as the popular Texas Starry Night massage (80 minutes, $220), best received under the stars right before bedtime. The signature Gifts of Our Garden (100 minutes, $325) incorporates fresh herbs picked daily from organic healing gardens for a relaxing massage, exfoliation, shower and body wrap. continues

Page 14 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #306 on reader service card



combination for beautiful skin.


Professional Dermal Cleansing Technology




Satin Smooth® Hydrasonic Professional Dermal Cleansing Technology: CLEANS 14X better than manual cleansing. IMPROVES topical product absorption 93%. GENTLE enough to use 2x a day. RESTORES skin’s natural balance 72%. Introducing Satin Smooth® Advanced Series Skin Care with Axp 33 TM+ Vitamin C. A breakthrough in peptide technology combined with a potent vitamin C complex. IMPROVED skin texture. BETTER reduction in the appearance of wrinkles. MORE EFFECTIVE Skin Lightening. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #304 on reader service card *Results and claims from subjects tested in clinical trials. VISIT US AT / ©2014 Professional Products Division • 14LI004671

spa of the month|lake austin spa resort Lake Austin Spa Resort has also incorporated traditional East Asian therapies. The gentle and effective art of Japanese acupuncture is applied in the Gentle Acupuncture (50 minutes, $160), which relieves stress and alleviates pain. A Calming Cupping treatment (25 minutes, $95) untangles the knots in clients’ shoulders and help them de-stress. This is best used as an add-on to any of the Traditional East Asian treatments.

In the Manaka Tapping (50 minutes, $165), the acupoints of the client’s body are softly tapped with a wooden hammer and peg in a percussive stimulation technique for an ultimate restorative effect. Guests can complete their experience at the spa by customizing their massage or facial with the endless selection of add-ons. The Color Bath Therapy (20 minutes, $75) is an aromatic bath with a choice of essential

oils. The guest enjoys the benefits of an underwater massage. The Best Foot Forward Massage (25 minutes, $95) is a soothing foot massage that makes a balancing and calming addition to any massage or body treatment. A Personalized Power Peel (25 minutes, $65) minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for a more even skin tone, and increases skin brightness and clarity. For Your Eyes Only (25 minutes, $85) is a beauty-defining brow wax, brow dye and lash dye to give the face a more youthful frame. Vital Eyes (25 minutes, $70) is an advanced treatment that helps strengthen and refresh lashes and brows using a powerful, revitalizing lash fortifier. The Lip Treatment ($30) is a lip repair service that can be added to any facial. It helps reduce the fine lines around the lips. The Pick-Me-Up Facial (25 minutes, $95) is a fast, refreshing facial that steams, cleanses, tones, exfoliates and moisturizes. A Partial-Body Massage (25 minutes, $95) is also available. n Lake Austin Spa Resort, 1705 S. Quinlan Park Road Austin, TX 78732 800.847.5637 photos courtesy of Lake Austin Spa Resort

Darlene Fiske is a self-proclaimed spa junkie and owner of The Fiske Group: Public Relations and Marketing Strategies. The award-winning communications firm specializes in positioning luxury goods to the affluent consumer through a variety of results-driven techniques. The company represents a small collection of very unique destinations and clientele, including Lake Austin Spa Resort. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #318 on reader service card

Page 18 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014


#dqrumors Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #261 on reader service card

TRUE BEAUTY Illuminating Age Control From The Inside Out

• Targets wrinkle depth & length, lifting & firmness, while injecting moisture, deep to plump epidermis. • Zero Down-Time • Zero Redness or Irritation • 100 % Active • 100% True Beauty

Visit Booth 207 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas New Products, Demos, Classes, Specials

Call to pre-order the special kit now. 1-888-292-DERM | | Professionals register online Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #256 on reader service card






SAVE WHEN YOU REGISTER BY 04/11/14 2-DAY ADMISSION IS $75 AFTER 04/11/14 • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Wellness Mind & Body • Medical facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Seminar • Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • Image Seminars • Salon/Spa Business Management Seminar • General Session Lectures and Demos




• Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • AIA-Aesthetics International Association • All Manufacturers’ Workshops





• Exhibit Hall flooded with hundreds of exhibitors IN T H E



PHONE: 1.800.471.0229 1.305.443.2322 ONLINE: E-MAIL: FAX:



Aesthetic Congress Communications 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, FL 33134

Show Hours: SUNDAY MAY 4

from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.


from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.



MAY 4 & 5 • 2014 ARLINGTON CONVENTION CENTER 1200 Ballpark Way Arlington, TX 76011

Discounted congress hotel rates sell out quickly! Limited discounted space available.




$125.00 for NCEA members (Includes 2-DAY ADMISSION to the congress) $149.00 for Non-members (Includes 2-DAY ADMISSION to the congress) INCLUDES: • • • • •

5 CEs Approved by the Commission on Accreditation CE Certificate and Digital Course Materials Complimentary NCEA Certified Records Verification ($175.00 value) 2-day all inclusive admission to The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Certificate of Attendance from The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa

NCEA CERTIFIED PREP CLASS SHERATON HOTEL - STANLEY CUP $125.00 NCEA members (Includes 2-DAY ADMISSION to the congress) $149.00 non-members (Includes 2-DAY ADMISSION to the congress) Membership status must be current on day of event No changing classrooms once programs have started

INCLUDES: • Complimentary NCEA Certified Records Verification ($175.00 value) • 2-day all inclusive admission to The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa • Certificate of Attendance from The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa


Arlington Convention Center INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

9:30 a.m.


9:45 a.m.


10:30 a.m.


11:00 a.m


11:30 a.m.


MONDAY MAY 5 9:30 a.m.


9:45 a.m.


10:30 a.m.


11:15 a.m.


12:00 p.m.




2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.

2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.

2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.


How Legislation Will Affect Medical Esthetics by Susanne S. Warfield The Next Step in Your Career, From Salon to Working With a Physician by Susanne S. Warfield


Integrating Wellness Into Your Spa Menu: Trending the Next 2-5 Years for Financial Success! by Holli Beckwith

Incorporating Nutritional Coaching Into Your Spa: The Path to Vibrant Health and Longevity! by Holli Beckwith

MEDICAL FACILITIES, SPA AND WELLNESS CENTER SEMINAR ROOM STANLEY CUP (SHERATON HOTEL) Finding the Right Physician to Partner With Your Facility by Jay A. Shorr and Mara Shorr Safety, Health, Security Fraud and Embezzlement in Your Business by Jay A. Shorr and Mara Shorr




Creating a Spa Experience in Any Treatment Room by Felicia Brown Creating Lifetime Clients by Felicia Brown


Energize Your Mind, Body and Spirit by Robert Sachs Integrating Wellness and Ayurveda Into Your Salon, Spa or Medical Facility by Liz Verbruggen

2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.

Rethink Pedicures by Karen Hodges Luscious Lashes For Your Client by Ellie Malmin



Going Once, Going Twice—SOLD! by Bonnie Canavino Building the new Spa Culture by Bonnie Canavino


Overcoming the Fear of Retail by Kenna Strunk Simplifying Social Media by William Strunk





2:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m.

LE MIEUX COSMETICS ROOM M 1-2 Re-Sculpt and Re-Contour Your Clients’ Skin by Janel Luu BIO JOUVANCE INC ROOM M 3-4 Microneedle Therapy With Bio Matrix Dermal Filler:Anti-Aging Alternative to Restylane® by Sonia Boghosian PCA SKIN® ROOM M 5 Hormones and the Skin by Holly Amson DERMAWARE® BIO-TARGETED SKIN CARE ROOM M 6 Face Perfection: The Medical Facial for Age Pigments and Acne by Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gül Ç. Zone ULTRALUXE BY DAKAR. ROOM M 7 Swiss Apple Stem Cells and MicroVenom Technology: How Cutting-Edge Science is Advancing Skin Care by Jennifer O’Connor CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE ROOM M 8 Peptide Technology by Michael Q. Pugliese DERMATUDE ROOM M 9-10 Dermatude META Therapy Microneedling by Crystal McElroy RHONDA ALLISON ROOM M 11-12 The First All Important Step: What Every Professional Must Know by Shannon Esau ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE ROOM CHAMPIONS BALL 1 (SHERATON HOTEL) Discover Immediate Anti-Aging Results With Organic Active Ingredients by Boldijarre Koronczay MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. ROOM CHAMPIONS BALL 2 (SHERATON HOTEL) Fast $$$ Comes From Fixing All Esthetic Skin Imperfections Permanently by Mahely Zerquera OSMOSIS SKIN CARE ROOM CHAMPIONS BALL 3 (SHERATON HOTEL) Everything You DID NOT Learn in School by Ben Johnson, M.D. LA MARQUISE, INC. ROOM WORLD SERIES 1 (SHERATON HOTEL) Introduction to Bioline-Jato by Deborah McClendon GLYMED PLUS ROOM WORLD SERIES 2 (SHERATON HOTEL) Skin of Color by Christine Heathman ADVANCED REJUVENATING CONCEPTS ROOM TRIPLE CROWN (SHERATON HOTEL) Post-Laser Procedure Management and Client Care by Tina Zillmann SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SKIN CARE ROOM SUPER BOWL 1 (SHERATON HOTEL) Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift and Collagen Infusion Therapy by Dasha Saian CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS ROOM SUPER BOWL 2 (SHERATON HOTEL) Treating Adult Acne With an Innovative Approach by Iris Safar BAMBOO-FUSION® ROOM WIMBLEDON (SHERATON HOTEL) Warm Bamboo Massage by Nathalie Cecilia


4:00 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.

CONTROL CORRECTIVE ROOM M 1-2 Chemical Peel Review and TCA Peel Certification by Ellen Clark BIO JOUVANCE INC. ROOM M 3-4 All You Need to Know About Radio Frequency: The Latest in Skin Care Technology for Anti-Aging by Sonia Boghosian

PCA SKIN® ROOM M 5 Chemical Peels for Sensitive and Ethnic Skin by Holly Amson HYDROPEPTIDE ROOM M 6 Not All Peptides Are Created Equal: Discover Peptide Synergies That Amplify Results by April Zangl DR. JEFF SKIN CARE/BEAUTY ATTICA ROOM M 7 Visible Skin Rejuvenation With Himalayan Red Rice Stem Cells by Daniel Chan, Ph.D. LIGHTSTIM ROOM M 8 LED Light Therapy: Results and Rewards by Gloria Timmons


INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION SATIN SMOOTH: A DIVISION OF CONAIR PROFESSIONAL ROOM M 9-10 The Choice of Skin Care Professionals Seeking Progressive Innovations in Skin Care Equipment by Jeane Richmond RHONDA ALLISON ROOM M 11-12 Let Intelligent Ingredients Work For You by Shannon Esau SKIN BLENDS & CIRÉPIL WAX ROOM CHAMPIONS BALL 1 (SHERATON HOTEL) Intimate Brazilian/Bikini Waxing the Cirépil Way! Painful Waxing is a Thing of the Past! by Tina Sharp MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. ROOM CHAMPIONS BALL 2 (SHERATON HOTEL) Microdermabrasion: Past, Present and Future by Mahely Zerquera UNIVERSAL COMPANIES® ROOM CHAMPIONS BALL 3 (SHERATON HOTEL) Jessner Peel Certification with Control Corrective Skincare by Jenny Farrand SPABOOKER ROOM WORLD SERIES 1 (SHERATON HOTEL) Customer Loyalty: Tips and Tools to Keep Your Customers Coming Back by Molly Southern FARMHOUSE FRESH® ROOM WORLD SERIES 2 (SHERATON HOTEL) Bring Fresh Excitement to Your Spa Menu by Natalie Aston ADVANCED REJUVENATING CONCEPTS ROOM TRIPLE CROWN (SHERATON HOTEL) Brazilian Boot Camp by Desiree Duran M’LIS COMPANY ROOM SUPER BOWL 1 (SHERATON HOTEL) The Missing Link in Healthy Skin, Hair and Nails …Wellness Services for the Spa by M’Lisa Jackson DEPILEVE ROOM SUPER BOWL 2 (SHERATON HOTEL) Brows to Brazilians With the Latest Waxing Techniques by Deanna Derthick BIOFRANCE LAB ROOM WIMBLEDON (SHERATON HOTEL) The Power of the Pure French Facial Peel-off Mask and Bio Elite 24 Karat Gold Facial Kit for Anti-Aging by Marc Rosengarten


2:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m.

BIO JOUVANCE INC. ROOM M 3-4 Microneedling With Natural Skin Peels for Acne, Pigmentedand Mature Skin for Instant Results by Sonia Boghosian

PCA SKIN® ROOM M 5 Rejuvenation of the Aging Face by Holly Amson ULTRALUXE BY DAKAR ROOM M 7 Discover the Most Advanced Peel Technologies and how to Master Applications by Jennifer O’Connor CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE ROOM M 8 Inflammation and Aging by Michael Q. Pugliese DERMATUDE ROOM M 9-10 Dermatude META Therapy Microneedling by Crystal McElroy ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE ROOM CHAMPIONS BALL 1 (SHERATON HOTEL) Experience the Power of Hungarian Massage and Stimulating Actives by Boldijarre Koronczay MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. ROOM CHAMPIONS BALL 2 (SHERATON HOTEL) Fast $$$ Comes From Fixing All Esthetic Skin Imperfections Permanently by Mahely Zerquera UNIVERSAL COMPANIES® ROOM CHAMPIONS BALL 3 (SHERATON HOTEL) How to Build a Lash and Brow Bar That Clients Can’t Resist by Jenny Farrand LUKSUS COSMETICS ROOM WORLD SERIES 1 (SHERATON HOTEL) New Breakthrough Stem Cell Stimulating Technology With Peptides and Probiotics by Lili Fan, M.D. GLYMED PLUS ROOM WORLD SERIES 2 (SHERATON HOTEL) Stem Cell Power Peeling Treatment by Kelly Adams MAXCARA ROOM TRIPLE CROWN (SHERATON HOTEL) Maxcara Semi-Permanent Lash Treatment by Deanna Derthick M’LIS COMPANY ROOM SUPER BOWL 1 (SHERATON HOTEL) Look Good Naked by Jenny Cutler DEPILEVE ROOM SUPER BOWL 2 (SHERATON HOTEL) Brows to Brazilians With the Latest Waxing Techniques by Haydee Laguna

EXHIBITOR LIST Academie Scientifique de Beauté Advanced Mineral Makeup Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts Aesthetics Ambassadors AIA- Aesthetics International Association Allegra M. France Altair Instruments, Inc. Apothederm Associated Skin Care Professionals Athena Beauty, Inc. B & S Beauty Supply B. Kamins Laboratories Bamboo - Fusion® Beaming White Beaute Tsuru DBA KSK Enterprise Beauty Attica Beauty Image Bella Schneider Beauty Bio Jouvance Inc. Biodroga BioFrance Lab Peel Off Mask, Ampoules Biokosmetik of Texas, Inc. Bioline-Jato Skin Care Biomani Advanced Medical Aesthetics Blinc, Inc. Bon Vital’, Inc. Bronze Biologic Buy Rite Salon & Spa Equipment Co. Cailyn Cosmetics Cailyn Cosmetics by Jaco Spa Cass Luxury Shapewear CBI Laboratories Christina USA Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Cirepil by Jaco Cirepil Wax by Skin Blends Clarisonic Clearfx Skin Control Corrective Skin Care Cosmeceuticals International, Inc. Cosmetiques France Laure Crown Brush Dectro International Depileve DermaQuest Dermascope Magazine Dermatude DermaVista Medical Aesthetic Technologies DermAware Bio-Targeted Skin Care Diamond Way Ayurveda DPC Int’l Inc. Dr. Grandel Dr. Jeff Skin Care Dr.Schrammek Kosmetik Eclipse Aesthetics Emage Medical

Éminence Organic Skin Care Equipro Evalash Silk Eyelash Extensions Eye Kandy Cosmetics Fake Bake Falcon International Group, Inc. Fallene LTD FarmHouse Fresh Foreo Genesis Biosystems, Inc. Gerda Spillmann Gleam by Melanie Mills GlyMed Plus Gold Cosmetics & Skin Care GrandeHair GrandeLash (h2t) Spa & Aesthetics Hairaway Wax Hale Cosmeceuticals Hanna Isul Skin Therapy, Inc. Health and Beauty Connection Hollywood Face Towels, Wraps & Beyond Huini USA Beauty, LLC HydraFacial MD® - Edge Systems HydroPeptide Image Skincare IMD Cosmetics, Inc. Infinity Sun Insparation Management Instantly Ageless Intensive Lash Tint IPKN Cosmetics USA Jaco Spa jane iredale - THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP® Jindilli JMT Group La Marquise, Inc. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics Lash Bomb Le Mieux Cosmetics LeChat Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Magazine LightStim Lôngmi Lashes By Daniel Luksus Cosmetics Lumavera Super Food for Skin M’lis Company Magazine Service Outlet (CMS of Holland) Majestic Skin & Massage (Slimming Body Wrap) Manufacturing Beauty® Martinni Beauty, Inc. Massaging Insoles USA Matis-Paris Skin Care Maxcara MedSkin Solutions Microplane Personal Care Mineralogie Mineral Makeup


Morphe Make Up Brushes National Laser Institute Novalash, Inc. Nutra Luxe MD OPM - Organic Permanent Makeup Osmosis Skin Care Otto Trading, Inc. PCA Skin Photomedex Pino Pollogen Pour Elle Cosmetic Premier North America Quintessence RA For Men Rapid Lash Rena Levi Skin Care Revitalash Revitalight Rhonda Allison Rubber Ducky RxLift™ Saian Natural Clinical Skin Care Salonwear SanMedica International, LLC Satin Smooth Silhouet-Tone Skin Blends Skin Care Consultants SkinPHD, Inc. With Dr. Suwelack Society for Clinical & Medical Hair Removal, Inc. (SCMHR) Sothys USA South Seas Tanning By Jaco Spa Manufacturer Direct Spabooker Square Sugar Streak Suntegrity Skincare Tassi LLC Tei Spa Essentials Texas Bioesthetic Instruments (TBI) The Unique Edge The Wax Connection Tizo by Fallene Today’s Digital Solutions UltraLuxe By Dakar Universal Companies VB Beauty Vital Assist Vitality FX Detoxification Station Vitamix Vivant Skincare: Miami Bleach by Vivant Volcanic Origins What’s Your Virtue White Towel Services, Inc.

Bye, bye acne. Move over wrinkles. Smooth, even, and clear skin is closer than ever before with HydroPeptide’s NEW Anti-Wrinkle + Clarify Collection. Already known for our amazing anti-aging results, HydroPeptide is excited to introduce a brand new collection that helps treat and strengthen skin against aging and acne. Purifying Cleanser and Clarifying Toner pads help draw out impurities while promoting rapid correction of imperfections. The ultra-sheer Redefining Serum improves skin tone and minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Spot Correction’s advanced formula clears acne pimples and prevent new ones from forming without over-drying. Use as a complete regimen or add individual products to your current HydroPeptide routine or facial to get the clear and smooth complexion you have always desired.

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HydroPeptide’s Anti-Wrinkle + Clarify is available in retail and backbar sizing, making it the perfect acne solution for all your clients. Speak to your representative to receive samples or information on HydroPeptide’s full line today. HydroPeptide — the authority in anti-aging skin care.

EXFOLIATION IS KEY TO MAINTAINING healthy, functioning skin. The skin naturally reproduces cells and brings healthy, new skin to the surface while regularly shedding the dead, outermost layer. As a skin care professional, you know that the benefits of exfoliation include improved texture and tone, lightened pigmentation, unclogged pores, a clearer complexion, a reduction in acne breakouts and in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, exfoliating the skin allows optimal penetration of any active ingredient.

The effects of exfoliation are immediately visible. This makes it very appealing to today’s consumers, who expect every marketing promise to be met. A single exfoliation service is sure to deliver a “wow” factor for your clients. As a professional skin therapist, you must assess your clients’ skin and determine what form of exfoliation is going to best meet their needs. Verify that the client has not been waxed recently, is not sunburned and has not had any laser, light-based treatment within the last 72 hours. If any of these conditions applies, reschedule the

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COMPLEXION the different methods of exfoliation the scrub. Oil-absorbing scrubs often contain clays such as kaolin or diatomaceous earth. The vigor of the scrub must be appropriate for the sensitivity level of the skin. A gentler scrub should be used on skin that is prone to flushing or inflammation, or has recently been resurfaced or waxed.

Microdermabrasion, ultrasound, brushes and dermaplaning

photo: AnikaNes/


exfoliation treatment. Clients who have recently taken Accutane (Isotretinoin) will need to wait a minimum of six months before undergoing any form of exfoliation. Ask female clients if they are pregnant. These questions are important to determine which form of exfoliation to use, and what ingredients are the most suitable.

Scrubs Scrubs work just the way they sound—they scrub away the dead skin cells. Sugar, salt, coffee, walnuts and almonds provide the loosening action of May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Microdermabrasion, ultrasound, dermaplaning treatments and brushes can be referred to as both physical and mechanical forms of exfoliation. Mechanical exfoliation utilizes a tool or machine to remove the buildup of dead skin cells. Microdermabrasion can be used to polish and smooth the skin. It is ideal for skin with visible sun damage. Microdermabrasion systems utilize pressurized suction. The top layers of the epidermis, which consist of dead skin cells, are removed in microdermabrasion. Manufacturers today combine microdermabrasion machines with water or serums to enhance the infusion of moisture and humectant ingredients into the skin, reducing redness, soreness, flaking and other commonly experienced symptoms. It is important that microdermabrasion is never used on sensitive skin, inflamed pustules, open acneic lesions or rosacea. Ultrasound or ultrasonic is a type of mechanical exfoliation that uses sound waves to create cavitation, or openings within the corneocytes. Skin cell particles are broken apart, resulting in tiny openings that allow for more powerful penetration of products, resulting in a deeper cleanse, exfoliation or hydration of the skin. This form of technology may be combined with cleansers or chemical exfoliants. With the exception of open or inflamed acne, ultrasonic is safe for all skin conditions. However, it is important to ensure continues

Manufacturers today combine microdermabrasion machines with water or serums to enhance the infusion of moisture and humectant ingredients into the skin, reducing redness, soreness, flaking and other commonly experienced symptoms. • Page 29

skin|renew the complexion

that there is no contraindication to the use of any electrical modality. Dermaplaning utilizes a small surgical blade to gently remove the uppermost layer of skin. The skin care professional must execute exceptional technical control and precision for this method. Dermaplaning helps even out irregular skin tone and reduces the appearance of scars.

Natural enzymes Enzymes, vitamins, acid-free smoothing agents or other active ingredients are often good matches for skin in need of deeper exfoliation, or skin conditions that are contraindicated with physical exfoliation. Enzymes are excellent for all skin types, particularly acneic skin in need of extractions, as well as dry, sensitive skin. They also make a great complement to chemical peels. Enzymes speed up the skin’s natural exfoliating process by nibbling away at the keratinized protein layer, which forms a hard coating on an aged cell. Mature skin, which experiences a natural slowing of cell turnover that results in a rough feel or

Alpha hydroxy acids AHAs are acids derived from fruits, nuts, milks and sugars. They help promote cell desquamation, and break down the bonds between the desmosomes, which allows for easier exfoliation of dead surface cells. The following is a list of different sources of AHAs: • GLYCOLIC ACID. Derived from sugars, this is one of the most common AHAs. It is appealing due to its small molecular size and multifunctional approach on the skin. It is effective at controlling sebum production. • LACTIC ACID. Derived from milk and sugars, this is probably the second most common of the AHAs. It is considered to be a gentler alternative to glycolic acid, due to its larger molecular structure. Lactic acid not only helps soften rough skin by breaking the bonds of the desmosomes, it can also increase hydration, inhibit pigmentation and adjust pH levels. continues

Page 30 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photo: Pressmaster/

Enzymes are excellent for all skin types, particularly acneic skin in need of extractions, as well as dry, sensitive skin. They also make a great complement to chemical peels.

lifeless, dull appearance, is ideally treated with proteolytic enzymes such as bromelain, papain and pumpkin. Most enzymes are activated by water, which makes them effective at maintaining hydration within the skin. One of the most common types of exfoliation is performed with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Both acids work by gently dissolving the outermost layers of skin. The difference between them is that AHAs are water soluble and do not penetrate as deeply as BHAs, which are oil soluble. AHAs are generally good at eliminating dead cells on skin’s surface, while the oil solubility of BHAs make them better for clearing up clogged pores. AHAs and BHAs can both be used in the form of serums, exfoliants or professional chemical peels. Their performance is determined by their percentage and their pH. The percentage identifies the product’s strength, while the pH determines how deeply it penetrates. The pH scale is numbered from one to 14, with one being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline. Tap water is considered neutral with a pH of seven, and skin has a pH between four and a half and six. Since AHAs and BHAs exfoliate skin due to their acidic component, pH is critical to their performance. To select a chemical peeling agent for your clients, use the Fitzpatrick classification system, and consider the overall condition of the skin and any related concerns.

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skin|renew the complexion

• CITRIC ACID. Derived from citrus fruits and corn, vitamin C is typically considered a class of its own. It technically belongs to the AHA family. This AHA is also an antioxidant that is used to help brighten the skin and increase epidermal thickness. • MALIC ACID. Derived from apples and green grapes, this acid is a multifunctional AHA that also acts as an antioxidant and humectant. It is soothing and beneficial to sensitive skin types that cannot tolerate glycolic acid. • MANDELIC ACID. Derived from bitter almonds, this AHA is comprised of a large form molecule that allows for slow and even penetration. Exfoliation with mandelic acid is more gentle and delicate for sensitive skin types.

It helps brighten discoloration and contains antibacterial properties that aid in acne control. • JESSNER SOLUTIONS. A blend of resorcinol, salicylic acids and lactic acids, this combination can effectively target a range of skin concerns such as acneic, sensitive and even irregular pigmentation. Modified Jessner solutions generally are comprised of lactic acid, salicylic acid and either citric acid or other botanical extracts.

Beta hydroxy acids BHAs function and perform similar to AHAs. Salicylic acid is a BHA derived from willow tree bark, wintergreen oil and sweet birch, which was used as an anti-inflammatory in ancient times. Since it is lipophyllic (attracted to oil) in nature, it has the ability to penetrate through the oils in the skin and clear out follicles of excess debris and skin cells. This makes it especially effective in the treatment of acneic skin conditions. Salicylic acid tends to be less irritating to some skin types, and may be a good alternative for clients who have not tolerated AHAs well.

More than just face value Each of the exfoliants discussed in this article may be used for more than the face. Any area that needs polishing and refining or suffers from photodamage can benefit from these exfoliants, including the feet, upper arms and back. Exfoliation on the chest and back can be especially helpful for clients experiencing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to acne. The ability to wear a bathing suit or revealing top without being self-conscious is very important. Exfoliation is a very innovative element to add to your service menu, particularly in the form of chemical peels. Educate yourself and your team about the benefits, ingredients, products, techniques and potential risks of chemical peels, and then educate your clients! It is a great service to boost your business. Safety should always be your primary concern. As a skin care professional, you are responsible for ensuring that the state boards where you currently practice allow for your ingredient combinations and formulations. Also, verify with the manufacturers of all products to determine if the mixing or blending of exfoliants is applicable. All of these concerns must be researched in advance, and are an important aspect of your treatment design. Exfoliation treatments are not one-size-fitsall. Requirements vary from state to state and client to client. n

Kristina Valiani is a licensed esthetician, and the sales and education manager for the West Coast for B. Kamins. Valiani conducts professional trainings and teaches continuing education classes for estheticians around the nation. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #105 on reader service card

Page 32 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

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LONG BEACH, CA SEPTEMBER 7 & 8, 2014 Long Beach Convention Center

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COLLAGEN SYNTHESIS NO DOWNTIME REQUIRED WHILE IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO STOP THE natural aging process, it is possible to delay it. There are many options available to achieve this, including cosmetic surgery, non-surgical medical esthetic procedures and the use of anti-aging skin care products. More and more clients are turning to non-invasive treatments and home care products with quick—if not instant—results. The signs of aging may affect each of us differently, but aging of the skin is mainly due to solar exposure and the loss of growth hormones (i.e., estrogen and testosterone), which leads to excessive oxidation of collagen and elastin fibers. This oxidation creates “cross-linking” or disorganization of collagen and elastin bundles in the skin, which then leads to sagging of the skin and wrinkles.

What is collagen? Collagen is the single most abundant protein found in humans, and gives the face as well as the body much of its shape and substance. When the skin is young, the collagen fibers form a network of thick bundles spread evenly throughout the surface of the skin, and the skin remains moisturized and elastic. As we age, the fibers are no longer resilient to our facial expressions, and lines begin to appear.

by Lyn Ross Page 36 •

Three types of collagen: Interstitial collagens are the major collagens of the skin, known as type I. Articular cartilage and nucleus pulposus is known as type II. Collagen present in the skin, blood vessel walls and the matrix of specialized organ tissue are all forms of type III.

In order for a treatment or product to be truly classified as anti-aging, its effect must be to stimulate collagen, giving the skin a plump and smooth appearance. This article offers an overview on how to stimulate collagen production with radio frequency.

Radio frequency: collagen stimulating treatment Radio frequency technology is the first to specifically target laxity of the face and neck. The radio frequency deep heating stimulates the body’s natural skin renewal process, which helps tighten existing collagen and form new collagen. Over time, sagging or wrinkled skin is replaced with smoother, tighter skin, improved continues

photo: Evgeny Varlamov/

May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 37

skin|maximizing collagen synthesis

Vitamin A (retinol) has proven to be one of the most important skin nutrients to help rebuild collagen elastin networks within the skin because of its powerful superficial exfoliating properties. Vitamin A promotes the normalization of epithelial desquamation, reducing cellular cohesion. This is the basis for its use in minimizing the appearance of fine wrinkle lines. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) acts as an antioxidant and is considered vital in wound healing because it aids in stabilizing collagen. When applied topically, it reduces fine lines and wrinkles and may lessen the severity of sunburns. Vitamin C effectively protects the skin against free radical reactions that can develop as a result of exposure to sun, environmental pollution and stress.

tone and texture, and an overall younger looking appearance. Now this technology is available to clinical estheticians with the advent of bipolar radio frequency treatments that can address a variety of skin issues on the face, neck and body, including aging, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin texture, acne scars and stretch marks. The electric current that goes between the electrodes is relatively small and shallow. As a result, the tissue in the treated area is heated less deeply (usually up to 2-4 mm) and less intensely (compared to monopolar radio frequency devices). RADIO FREQUENCY CAN REDUCE AND IMPROVE THE FOLLOWING CONDITIONS: • Prematurely aged skin: Softens fine lines and wrinkles. • Skin laxity: Tightens and restores elasticity. • Cutaneous flabbiness: Tightens sagging abdomen, thighs, arms and buttocks. • Acne scarring: Reduces the appearance of scarring. • Hyperpigmentation: Helps reduce pigmentation marks. continues

Spas that offer treatments or products mentioned Institut’ Dermed Spa, Atlanta, GA offers customized radio frequency treatments for the face, neck and body, available individually or in a series. 60 minutes, $385 Lippossage Contour, Charlotte, NC offers radio frequency treatments on their menu. Clients can receive RF on the face or one body area for 20 minutes at $120. Le Spa, Whitehouse Station, NJ offers the ULTIMATE Anti-Aging Facial as well as Localized Lifting & Firming Treatments, and Localized Radiofrequency Firming and Tightening. Face $60 Eye Area $40 “Double Chin” Area $40 Neck $50 Décolleté (chest) $65 Back of Hands $40 Essential Beauty Medical Spa, Orange County, CA offers radio frequency to smooth, tighten, lift and tone skin. Eyes $200 Face $399 Neck $250

Page 38 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photos: Nikodash/; Evgeny Varlamov/

Now this technology is available to clinical estheticians with the advent of bipolar radio frequency treatments that can address a variety of skin issues on the face, neck and body, including aging, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin texture, acne scars and stretch marks.

Create Great Skin 1

The perfect solution for skin that shows first signs of premature aging.


Aims to achieve an effective delay in skin’s aging process.


Overall rejuvenating skin, providing a smoother illuminated complexion.


Restores skin’s healthy protective and regenerative function.

The famous Christina’s Beauty Globes’ technique featured in the December 2013 issue of Allure magazine.

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skin|maximizing collagen synthesis

• Stretch marks: Reduces their appearance. • Cellulite: Smoothes orange peel skin. Typical treatments can last anywhere from 30 minutes to one hour, or the time it takes to reach an optimal temperature in the area being treated. This varies based on the radio frequency machine being used and client tolerance. The average price range for a radio frequency session is $285-$400. For optimum results, clients should receive radio frequency treatments twice a week for five weeks, and then once every four to 12 weeks for maintenance. Since the epidermis, the natural skin protection barrier, remains intact, radio frequency can be performed on all skin types. There are only a few clients for whom this service cannot be performed, such as clients bearing pacemakers, hearing aids or other electromagnetic devices, superficially underlying metallic implants, active acne, rosacea, tumors or pregnancy. Because of the nature of radio fequency, it should not be combined with any other treatment that stimulates heat (such as steaming, masks or peels) immediately before or after the session. Cleansing facials can be performed prior to the radio frequency treatment, and other treatments can be safely performed 24-48 hours afterward.

Increase and maintain the results of radio frequency In order to increase and maintain the results of radio frequency, collagen stimulating ingredients can be used at home for 30 to 90 days before and after the start of treatments to extend the results. After many years of research, scientists, derma-

tologists and plastic surgeons have discovered that a variety of natural ingredients such as vitamin extracts A and C significantly reduce and even reverse the signs of aging skin. These ingredients are now found in many medically recommended anti-aging skin care products. Vitamin A products should be applied topically at night, and vitamin C should be applied in the morning. Advise your clients to introduce these products to their routine every other day until they build enough tolerance to use them every day.

Conclusion While we cannot completely save our clients’ skin from the symptoms of aging that appear as they grow older, adopting an anti-aging regimen of collagen boosting products and treatments is an effective way to decelerate the signs of aging. n Lyn Ross is a licensed master esthetics educator, a recognized leader in the professional skin care industry and the founder of Institut’ DERMed. With more than 25 years of in-clinic esthetic experience, Ross is dedicated to sharing her knowledge with licensed esthetics professionals. A true medical spa pioneer, Ross has written numerous articles, authored chapters in textbooks and appeared on radio and television shows highlighting professional skin care.

Help your clients maintain the benefits of radio frequency with this collection of cutting-edge vitamin A and vitamin C products • Circadia VITAMIN C REVERSAL SERUM • Lira Clinical BIO Hydra C Serum with PSC • Osmosis Skincare VITAMIN C+ VITAMIN C POWDER BLEND • Image Skincare VITAL C HYDRATING ACE SERUM




Page 40 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

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Page 42 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014



COLLAGEN SUPPLEMENTS supplementation is fast what they Collagen becoming a hot topic in the spa and beauty inare and how dustry, and is now being offered in liquid form combat the signs of aging. Healthy collagen they can tolevels are what give young skin its strength, durabenefit your bility and smooth, plump appearance. Collagen production reaches its peak in our mid-20s and clients’ skin

then begins to decline by one to two percent per year, on average. The result is thinner, less elastic skin, as well as wrinkles, deep creases and saggy areas around the mouth and neck. In Japan, where the liquid collagen trend originated, women take a holistic approach to beauty, considering not only what they put on their skin but also what they put into their bodies. Collagen drinks are wildly popular throughout Asia, and are considered superior to tablets and powders because they contain significantly more nutrients and active ingredients than pills, owing to their larger volume. Collagen drinks are also absorbed at a higher rate and are more convenient and tasty than powders and pills.

How liquid collagen works Multiple scientific studies have proven that drinking collagen can indeed benefit the skin. According to a paper published in the Archives of Dermatological Research in 2008, ingesting collagen may help with overall collagen formation in the body. A year later, Tokyo University published research suggesting that drinking collagen could reverse the effects of sun-related skin aging. Another study by a research institute in Japan in 2006 suggested that ingesting collagen peptide increases fibroblast density and enhances the formation of collagen in the dermis. Fibroblasts are a principal component of skin cells that synthesize collagen and elastin. Researchers at Katsuragi Hospital in Japan also documented improvements in the skin of subjects who took an oral collagen supplement.

May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

How collagen is absorbed into the bloodstream Digestion of dietary collagen in its native state is often incomplete for the simple reason that collagen is the largest molecule in the body—often called the “supermolecule,” and as such it is too large for digestive enzymes to break down effectively and be absorbed into the bloodstream.

The importance of choosing beauty drinks that contain hydrolyzed collagen The secret to success is consuming hydrolyzed Type I collagen, which consists of the type of collagen found in the skin that has been cut into pieces small enough to be rapidly absorbed by the digestive system. Premium quality collagen drinks are made with this essentially “pre-digested” collagen. A 2005 study conducted at Kyoto Prefectural University in Japan showed that the amino acids from oral hydrolyzed collagen are absorbed into the bloodstream. The presence of collagen in the bloodstream triggers a “wound healing response” in the body that reactivates the body’s collagen production. The body directs the repair materials to the locations where they are needed most, stimulating the production of new skin cells and hyaluronic acid. Typically, collagen supplements are made out of animal extract or fish extract. Fish-derived liquid collagen is considered superior to the animal (cow, chicken or pig), because the body absorbs fish collagen more easily, owing to its lower molecular weight. Research has shown that of the 20 plus types of collagen in the body, liquid collagen containing hydrolyzed Type I collagen is most effective for increasing collagen levels in the skin. 4



The benefits of taking collagen supplements: • Reduces fine lines and wrinkles • Strengthens hair and nails • Improves appearance of stretch marks and cellulite • Supports connective tissue and joint health • Relieves joint pain and stiffness

Results your clients will see and feel Liquid collagen is designed to be consumed on a daily basis for the first week to “kick-start” the wound healing response, then on alternating days after that. Most people see results within a few weeks to a month of regular consumption. However, not all liquid collagen is created equal. If liquid collagen has a low potency (less than 10 grams a serving), it will have little or no effect. That is why it is important to choose a liquid collagen made with the highest potency and quality ingredients.

Integrating liquid collagen into your spa treatments

Larry Pederson is the founder of RenewAlliance, the exclusive North America distributor for the LAC® brand product line from Japan, featuring Taut® Premium Collagen Replenishment Formula. Pederson is a serial entrepreneur with 20 years of experience in the industries of health, wellness and medical devices. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #271 on reader service card

Page 44 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

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Liquid collagen supplements are easily integrated into existing spa treatment menus. Creating a “collagen treatment” can include a single dose of liquid collagen and a collagen-infused mask to create a simple and intriguing new treatment that can be added to any spa menu. Typically, the collagen mask is applied, and during the 15-minute treatment, the therapist explains the concept and science of liquid collagen and then offers the single dose to drink. Both products are then recommended for sale in the spa boutique. Liquid collagen represents a new and exciting opportunity to enhance clients’ spa experiences as they discover a new approach to younger-looking skin. At the same time, it represents a new and recurring revenue stream for a spa’s bottom line. n

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get your client radiant for their wedding! MANY PEOPLE DREAM OF THEIR wedding day from the time they are young children. Whether it is an opulent or intimate affair, a wedding is special. Having healthy and radiant skin on this important and life-changing day is a common goal for most. By educating clients who are planning their big day about lifestyle choices and setting up a treatment plan and home care regimen in the months prior to the wedding, you can help all your brides and grooms-to-be achieve the complexion they desire on their wedding day.

SKIN HEALTH for the big day

The importance of daily care Achieving healthy, beautiful skin does not happen overnight, and is not the result of one “silver bullet” treatment. The most important first step is to ensure that, like all clients, those preparing for their wedding are using a comprehensive daily care regimen and are diligently following your directions. The urge to do more to get better and faster is hard to combat, but it is critical to understand that more is not better. Their regimen should include a gentle non-soap cleanser, a broad spectrum SPF of at least 30 and a nighttime moisturizer that is appropriate for their skin type. In addition to these basics, the regimen should be customized to address any skin conditions clients are working to clear: • Those with acne should use a gentle benzoyl peroxide cleanser and spot-treatment product along with an antioxidant serum. • Those with skin discolorations should add a product with vitamin C and E in the morning, a pure retinol product in the evening, and a serum designed to inhibit melanogenesis and lift existing skin discolorations with ingredients such as hydroquinone. • To fight visible aging and create a glowing and youthful complexion, clients should include a next generation peptide product along with vitamin C and E in the morning, and a pure retinol serum in the evening.


The neck and chest is an often forgotten zone, but one that is especially important to remember before a wedding day. Many wedding dresses highlight the neck and décolleté, so it would be a shame to work diligently to make facial skin glow, only to be upstaged by a discolored, red or lax neck and chest. There are products available today specifically formulated to treat this delicate skin. They should include peptides and ingredients designed to strengthen and firm the skin on the neck and chest.

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photo: Sofia Andreevna/

Designing a treatment plan It is best to start professional treatments at least six months prior to the wedding day. This gives you the opportunity to identify which treatments work best for a particular client. Never perform a treatment for the first time the week or day before the wedding, as having an unexpected reaction to a treatment is always a possibility. Also, have your clients pay close attention to when they think their skin looks and feels the best post-treatment. Once you know this, May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

you can schedule the last treatment before the wedding accordingly. Some may feel they look best after seven days, others after nine days; it is different for each individual. Your treatments will be customized for each client, but should include superficial blended chemical peels, professional masks and potentially oxygenating treatments. By starting your treatment plan well before the wedding, you give yourself plenty of time to treat clients’ skin in a holistic fashion. continues • Page 47

skin|skin health for the big day

A good guideline for treatment frequency is based on the main condition you are trying to treat, not the product you are using.

Tanning Although it is well-known that UV exposure destroys important matrix components, discolors the skin and potentially leads to skin cancer, many still seek the so-called “healthy” tan. Tanning should be strongly discouraged for all your clients, but those planning for a big event often think they will look better with a tan. Trying to improve someone’s skin while they are then destroying it between office visits is not a worthwhile venture.

Stress Planning a wedding can be quite a stressful experience. Unfortunately, stress does nothing good for the skin. An increase in cortisol due to stress can lead to dehydration, sallow skin and an increase in fine lines. Help your clients combat this by encouraging proper sleep and exercise habits, as well as adding a stress-reducing activity such as yoga, meditation or even just a regular walk outdoors. Managing their stress will make your job of delivering a glowing complexion that much easier.


Frequency of treatment A good guideline for treatment frequency is based on the main condition you are trying to treat, not the product you are using. The following are optimal intervals for common skin conditions: • Acne: Every two weeks • Hyperpigmentation: Every three weeks • Aging: Every four weeks • Sensitive skin/rosacea: Every four weeks

Lifestyle choices Educating guests on the effects their lifestyle choices have on their skin is best in order to truly see improvements.

Smoking just one cigarette robs the skin of vital oxygen for 90 minutes. If a person smokes more than one cigarette in this time period, the skin becomes chronically oxygen deprived. At this point, the body actually begins to produce more capillaries to try to oxygenate the skin. This totally avoidable environmental pollutant increases MMP (matrix metalloproteinases) production, degrades the skin’s matrix and leads to a decreased ability to heal from wounds. Bottom line: There is nothing good about smoking for the skin.

Don’t forget the groom! Preparing for a wedding typically involves brides, but grooms are important as well. Make sure you encourage your engaged male clients to come in for regular treatments, and encourage your female clients to bring in their fiancés as well. Design a regimen of daily care products to help them look and feel their best at their wedding. By following these treatment guidelines and educating your clients about the critical role they play in achieving their skin health goals, you can provide each of your clients with the complexion they desire, for their wedding and beyond. n

Jennifer Wild, D.O., is a national educator for PCA SKIN®. An osteopathic physician/surgeon, Dr. Wild is boardcertified in family practice and has served as medical director for medical spas throughout Arizona. Since 2004, she has pursued her interest in esthetics, including dermal injections, laser and professional skin care treatments.

Page 48 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014


A newer technology that is growing quickly due to its outstanding results is micro-needling. There are several companies that manufacture these devices, and they can be used as effective adjuncts to other treatments. There are some devices that are rolled along and pierce the skin. Others enter the skin vertically, which tends to be more comfortable for the client and causes less bleeding and discomfort. Either method is used in order to increase the penetration of topical products and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. Micro-needling is a particularly beneficial device to use when tackling such skin conditions as uneven surface texture, acne scarring and deep wrinkling in clients with resilient skin. For optimal results, start your clients on a series of three to six treatments performed at least one month apart. Since downtime following a micro-needling session can be longer than superficial chemical peels, it would be in the best interest of your clients not to perform such services within six weeks of the wedding.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card



Blue Mask™ from Ultraluxe Skincare is ideal for those with red, inflamed or irritated skin. This cooling treatment strengthens and improves elasticity with marine-source elastin and Bacopa Monniera, while Blue Azulene pacifies irritation and infuses skin with moisture. This cooling mask enriches and nourishes skin and replenishes dehydrated skin, says the company. 855.366.8102


THE FORCE OF FOUR Jenetiqa Luxury Skin Care combines science and nature to create the Jenetiqa system, a fourproduct concept that delivers a bio-available, concentrated blend of antioxidants, plant extracts and botanicals to illuminate, correct, repair and restore the skin. This smart combination of eye cream, serum, day cream and night repair complex is formulated to deliver maximum strength and efficacy when applied together. 713.876.8258


BARE BRILLIANCE The soft concentrate of caviar extract, diamond powder and sodium hyaluronate in Luxury Caviar and Diamond Essence by DPC International helps to stimulate synthesis of collagen to preserve skin’s firmness and elasticity. Extra fine diamond powder gently exfoliates the top layer of skin and allows the infused vitamins and botanicals to penetrate deeper, says the company. Age-defying ingredients can therefore more effectively replenish moisture and smooth the surface texture of the skin, producing youthful luminosity. 866.436.6462

The Elastin Infusion TherapyTM with Elastatropin® from Texas Beauty Institute utilizes a three-step process. MCR with DermalastylTM conduction gel prepares the skin, followed by Step 1 Chaperone and Step 2 Protein. This process promotes faster penetration of the protein, eliminating inert skin cells and activating the remaining cells, loosening the bonds between them. This is typically used with some form of iontophoresis, resulting in increased skin elasticity, which is seen immediately, says the company. 877.496.8838

Page 50 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #245 on reader service card



Defend skin against the visible signs of aging with natural tyrosinase inhibitors and hydrating ingredients that help reprogram cells and tighten skin for a firmer, more youthful acting complexion. Packed with powerful peptides to stimulate new cell growth, Stem Cell Power Serum by GlyMed Plus harnesses stem cells from the Swiss Uttwiler Spätlauber Apple to boost skin firmness at the cellular level, says the company. 800.676.9667

UNIQUE APPROACH Dermavista is pleased to introduce the Excellence Global Anti-Aging Bio-Repair Program by Atache Scientific Cosmetic. The Excellence Professional Program, inspired by recent cosmetic scientific research on the action of telomerase activators in prolonging the youth of skin cells, incorporates a facial massage, which is based on Anma, a traditional Japanese massage technique. The Excellence line consists of a fivesession in-spa program, along with two compatible home care products. 800.767.6765

MICRODERMABRASION FOR ALL With its turbo-flow projection system and its one-horse power motor, the new Vortex-Peel by Silhouet-tone is a gentle and precise unit with consistently high velocity. It is computer-controlled and offers a variety of preset programs, accommodating all skin types, says the company. The Vortex-Peel is a dualtechnology device that offers the benefits of both crystal and crystal-free techniques. 800.552.0418

CUSTOMIZED CARE Pevonia Spa Clinical takes the guesswork out of skin care by combining the right products with a simple, effective routine to help your clients achieve healthy, radiantly youthful looking skin by identifying your clients’ concerns, customizing based on individual needs and delivering visible results with professional-strength solutions. This collection includes four concern based regimens, each with four steps, and three additional specific purpose serums. Brought to you by JaCo Wholesale Day Spa Supplies. 800.684.5226

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS Page 52 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

be ageless with the new Perfecting Neck & Décolleté

as seen in O, The Oprah Magazine

Please visit us at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Dallas Booth 101/103


after five weeks visit to learn more



Perfecting Neck & Décolleté used twice daily. No professional treatments were applied. Results may vary.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #110


the secret to your success?

AS A SPA OWNER, YOU STRIVE TO hire experienced therapists, lay out protocols that ensure a high level of customer service, and train your staff to perfection. But one thing you cannot do is keep your eyes and ears on your staff at all times. That is where a secret shopper comes in. A growing number of spa owners are enlisting the help of professional secret shoppers to “spy” on their staff in an effort to discover ways to improve their spa business on all fronts. Through the eyes of this unbiased third party, spa owners can learn what a day at their spa is really like. Darcie Pritchett, owner of Eden Day Spa in Boca Raton, FL is one spa owner who believes in this method of quality control. “We can put cameras in our lobbies to monitor interaction with guests, but you can’t do that in the treatment room to see what’s really going on behind closed doors,” she says. Pritchett warns that just because clients appear satisfied after a treatment and revenue is stable, it does not mean that the staff is living up to their full potential. “You need to make sure they are doing all of the extra details to make the client’s services extra special,” she says.

Dori Soukup, the founder and CEO of InSPA­ration Management, says that the secret shopper’s checklist should include how the initial phone call and appointment is handled, how the client is greeted upon arrival and how clean and well-stocked the locker room, refreshment area and relaxation lounge are. The checklist should also encompass every detail of the treatment itself, including the smell of the room, whether or not the therapist consults the client on their needs and if the therapist recommends

“We had a massage therapist recommending retail that we didn’t carry in the spa.” an upgrade, add-on and/or products based on the client’s needs. “It’s good to have the shopper book a full spa day, give them the checklist to review in advance, and ask for their report immediately after their visit,” advises Kim Knapp, founder and CEO of Skin Apeel Day Spa in Boca Raton, FL. “It’s not something that you just do once and you’re done with it. Make it part of your yearly budget,” suggests Pritchett. That said, if you suspect any misconduct or get customer complaints, it is recommended to send a shopper in immediately. The first step is deciding whether to hire a professional or a friend who is a frequent spa-goer. “Your friend can give you their opinion, but a professional will give you a recommendation that will help improve your business,” notes Soukup.

“The results are always enlightening,” says Knapp, who has used a spa owner friend, as well as a rep from one of her vendors as shoppers. “Sometimes we’re pleasantly surprised and other times there are fascinating revelations. For example, we had a massage therapist recommending retail that we didn’t carry in the spa. I handled it by stressing the importance of recommending products we carry and explained how it benefited both of us. I also gave this employee the opportunity to give me feedback on products she thinks we should carry to support the clients’ needs.“ Other times, staffers who were “shopped” needed further training or coaching in order to improve their performance and the overall spa experience. “We had a front desk spa coordinator who I suspected was burned out. My fear was confirmed with our secret shopper’s report. I considered letting her go, but then I evaluated what her skill set really was and discovered that she thrived best behind the scenes. So, I made her operations manager, and I’m happy to say that a year later she is doing great and is a vital part of my organization,” says Knapp. Of course, there are also times when a shopper reports an act so egregious that termination is required. “If it was something that was not coachable, such as a disrespectful attitude, breaking policy or protocol intentionally, or a repeated offense, then I would have likely let them go,” says Pritchett. “It’s the next best thing to personally being in the room with the therapist and client, watching and listening to all that transpires,” adds Pritchett. n

Page 54 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photo: Leszek Glasner/

by Caroline Canetti

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #230







1. VIVANT • Miami Bleach Body Bleach

2. ÉMINENCE • Arctic Berry Peel & Peptide Illuminating System

3. BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY • Honey Rose Massage Cream Step 6B




4. ERBAVIVA • Mommy-to-be Milk Bath

5. GLYMED PLUS • Intense Peptide Skin Recovery Complex • Oxygen Deep Pore Cleanser

6. JANE SCRIVNER • Rose Gold Ultimate Facial Serum

7. PCA SKIN • Anti-redness Serum


Trendy products for your clients to look their best...






9. GLAMGLOW • SuperMud Clearing Treatment

10. BIO-THERAPEUTIC • bt-Cocktail Strategic 3 Part Skin Energy System

11. SANS SKIN CARE • Whipped Body Butter



12. RHONDA ALLISON • Lighten & Brighten Box Set

13. PCA SKIN • Perfecting Neck and Décolleté

14. PURE PLANT SPA • Extra Rick Shea Butter Moisture Cream Ginger + Vanilla

15. GREEN & GOOD • The Balm Escape








1. CONTROL CORRECTIVE • Lactic Peel Skin Smoothing Kit

2. GRANDELASHTM-MD • Grande Face Lift

3. LUMAVERA • Oxygenating Mask



4. LE MIEUX • Lavender Floral Mask

5. CIRCADIA • Myo-Cyte Plus Anti-Wrinkle Serum

6. SAIAN • Pure Vitamin C Serum

7. IWILLA REMEDY • My Skin Glows, Nourishing Cream

8. LIRA CLINICAL • PH Solution With SCT

9. PROVENCE COSMETICS • Day Cream Multi-actions










10. DERMAWARE • Ture Beauty Serum

11. SKINHEALIX • B2 Actigen Collagen Treatment Mask

12. CLAIRVOYANT BEAUTY • Hydrating Roses Cream

13. HALE COSMECEUTICALS • Patent 5 Deep Wrinkle Serum



14. RENA LEVI SKIN CARE • Ultimate Restoration Crème

15. FARMHOUSE FRESH • Crow Catcher Eye Perfecting Serum

16. ILIKE ORGANIC SKIN CARE • Rosehip Exfoliator

17. PHYTOMER • Exfoliating Radiance Gel

18. HYDROPEPTIDE • Anti-wrinkle Polish & Plump Peel

19. SATIN SMOOTH • Ultimate Collagen Eye Lift Masks • Ultimate Lip Plump Mask

20. DARPHIN • Aromatic Purifying Balm






4 5

1. THE CRAVE COLLECTION • Brow Braun Eyebrow Conditioner

2. LVX • Nail polish in Cashmere • Nail Polish in Cliquot

3. NUBAR • Nail Lacquers

4. MINERALOGIE • Lip vitamin E in Mango Tango • Mineral Powder In Scene Stealer And Pink Tuxedo

5. BLINC • Eyeliner Pencil

6. DASHING DIVA • French Wrap Manicure Set

7. L.A. GIRLS COLOR POP • Nail Polish in Delight • Nail Polish in Birthday Cake




8. SOTHYS • Rouge Intense Lipstick • Illuminating Trio Face & eyes • Teint Naturel Glowing hydrating foundation

9. CUCCIO COLOUR • Take Heart in Turin • Crush in Lake Como

10. IMPALA NAIL COLOR • Nail Polish



11. IMAGE SKINCARE • I Conceal Flawless Foundation SPF 30

12. MAXI LIP • Lip Plumper

13. REVITALASH • Fineline Primer





14. DURI • Ulitmate Duri Polish Gift Set

15. REVITALASH • Spotlight Highlighting pencil

16. MUNDIAL PERSONAL CARE • Crystal Tweezers

photo: Mayer George/

Page 62 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014



THE GROOM’S PRE-WEDDING CHECKLIST HAS TRADItionally been to pick up his tux, pay the officiant, and write his wedding speech. However, husbands-to-be are adding one more item to their to-do list on the road to wedded bliss: spa time! Spa owners nationwide are reporting higher numbers of men, and specifically grooms, coming in for prenuptial treatments. “In the last two years, we’ve seen a big increase in grooms coming in. It’s two things—the industry is changing and the general attitude about men and spas is evolving and, for us, we’re just becoming more known for catering to men so we’re getting more grooms. We had five groom spa parties booked in April, months before the full wedding season had even begun,” says Jamie Ahn, owner of Townhouse Spa in Midtown Manhattan, NY.

Attracting men The number one way to introduce the groom to a spa is still word-of-mouth through his fiancée. “A couples massage is a great way to introduce the groom to the spa and once you get them in and they find that they are comfortable here, they come back for other services,” says Rick Lucas, owner of A White Pond Paradise Salon & Day Spa in Akron, OH. Another successful way to attract the groom is the most simple of all: Have a separate menu for men, and on your website, have photos of grooms getting treatments. “When you have a separate section for men and grooms on your treatment menu, it conveys the message that men are welcome and it makes it more accepted and normal. When they see treatments catered to their specific needs, they know they’re not just visiting a woman’s world; this is a place for them too,” says Helen Storer, director of spa sales and operations at the Hotel Bel-Air’s Spa in Los Angeles, CA. Townhouse Spa has also found the key attraction to their spa is their masculine aesthetic in general, and their Men’s Lounge, which is located on a separate floor and features an old boy’s club feel complete with oversized leather couches, men’s magazines, sports on the flat-screens and Scotch on the

menu. “Most men don’t feel comfortable walking around a spa in robes in front of women, so giving them a private and very masculine space of their own is a big draw for us,” says Ahn, who suggests that if a spa doesn’t have a separate room for men, to just section it off with screens to give them privacy. Hotel Bel-Air also pays special attention to the men by providing larger size robes and slippers, and offering an array of men’s amenities such as shaving products, men’s magazines and a glass of Scotch as well. “It’s those little touches that really make them feel more at home in the spa,” says Storer. At Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa in San Diego, CA, the additional amenities of saunas, steam rooms, plunge pools and a fitness facility aid in attracting the groom who wants to get in tip-top shape for the big day, according to Abril Gruber, spa operations manager. With Townhouse Spa being located in the heart of the financial district, they have attracted their male clientele by promoting their services directly to the corporations and investment banks. “We have a huge corporate clientele. We’ll email them some packages and the execs will often pay to have their employees come in to de-stress and that’s a great way to get their feet in the door,” Gruber says. The same business-to-business outreach can be done with local gyms, country clubs, golf courses and car dealerships. Hotel Bel-Air takes a slightly different route by sending printed direct mailers to homes in neighborhoods adjacent to the affluent Bel-Air, CA community. “To reach our external guests, we have a lot of mature clients who appreciate and read mailers so we market directly to them. We also have a great PR team that gets the hotel featured in major magazines, such as Harper’s Bazaar, and we advertise locally in luxury magazines. For our internal guests, we use our concierge, word-of-mouth and inroom marketing to let them know about the spa,” says Storer. A White Pond Paradise has found success marketing to the groom through the bride by advertising in Today’s Bride magazine. They also participate in the publication’s wedding expos by setting up a booth to give out information about the spa and continues

BY JOHN RENUCCI, M.D., F.A.C.S. May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 63

spa|here comes the groom

Grooming the groom Stronger massages, such as sports and deep tissue massages, are typically the first treatment the groom spa-goer will go for. “Massage is still the most popular treatment for grooms and we like to recommend that they get one the day before or even the day of their wedding so that they are truly relaxed for the big day,” says Gruber. That said, there are a growing number of grooms coming in for facials, waxing, and most surprisingly, manicures and pedicures. “Manicures and pedicures for men are the biggest trends we’re seeing. It used to be unheard of and now it’s the standard. They will ask, ‘Do a lot of men do this?’ Once we put their fears to rest, they are more comfortable booking them,” says Storer of the BelAir’s Gentleman’s Manicure (30 minutes, $60) and Gentleman’s Pedicure (45 minutes, $100). Rancho Valencia’s Gruber says that when you remind the groom that his hands will be in wedding photos and his feet will be in sandals if he’s off to a beach honeymoon, they are more apt to book those treatments. Rancho caters their “Man”-icure treatment to men’s needs by focusing on muscle and joint relief and using scents and ingredients that are more masculine, such as jade, ginseng and mint. Just like with manicures and pedicures, the pitch to get the groom into the facial room is the same—you want to look good for your photos. “Usually the fiancée recommends a facial for their groom and it’s been very popular here. We tell them a facial will give them a glowing, soft, relaxed expression that you’ll see in your photos and helps with ingrown hairs from shaving,” says Ahn of Townhouse’s The Men’s Cleansing Facial (60 minutes, $195). Rancho Valencia’s The Back Nine purifying back treatment (60 minutes, $150) has also been popular with grooms. It, again, uses more masculine scents and ingredients, such as rice germ, blue lotus, bamboo, tiger grass, lemon and green tea. “We’ll ask where their honeymoon is and suggest a back wax or the back facial because a lot of men won’t think of that on their own,” says Gruber. continues

ALSO SEEN IN THE SPAS BELOW: GROOMS’ TREATMENTS GENE JUAREZ, SEATTLE, WA Custom Facial: A skin care therapist evaluates the guest’s skin and decides what is best. (60 minutes, $105) SENSPA, SAN FRANCISCO, CA Men’s Trio: Brow grooming, ear cleanup and nose-hair trim ($50) When he is in need of full repair… Deep Tissue Massage (75 minutes) Relief Repair Massage for the Foot or Scalp (15 minutes) Men’s Lifestyle Facial (50 minutes) (2 hours, 20 minutes $400) LA CHELE MEDICAL AESTHETICS, NEW HOPE, PA Men’s Refining Facial: This facial soothes, hydrates and protects men’s skin from environmental damage. (55 minutes, $115) SKIN NV, TAMPA, FL Gentleman’s Oxygen Facial: Includes a deep cleansing, followed by an enzyme mask to exfoliate dead skin and oxygen therapy to finish for a healthy glow. (30 minutes, $100)

DON’T FORGET THE DETAILS... Once your groom has relaxed with a massage, polished up his digits and toes and received a glowing facial, it is time to recommend a few more treatments to get him fully ready for his big day. Here are four more options to include on your men’s menus: SPRAY TANNING: The grooms do not need to look like George Hamilton, but a little color goes a long way to ensure they look vibrant and radiant for their big day and the honeymoon. WAXING: Spas should take a good head-to-toe look at their grooms to see if they need hair removal for their ears, nostrils, unibrow and chest. Face to Face NYC, for instance, has a men’s waxing menu with 27 options, including South of the Border ($75), Full Moon Rising ($50) and Smooth Operator ($300). PHOTO FINISH: A great facial will help the groom shine in wedding photos, but one might suggest they use a tinted moisturizer with SPF or a bronzer on their big day. TEETH WHITENING: Many spas are teaming with local cosmetic dentists to offer teeth whitening services for their clients on their big day. Townhouse Spa in NYC has teamed up with a dentist to shine guests’ pearly whites for $399.

Page 64 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photo: Andresr/

coupons, and having a presence on their website as well, including a photo gallery that features men and women. “We get a lot of grooms this way, but we also get a lot by other wedding sites, such as, finding us organically and including us on their site,” says Lucas.

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spa|here comes the groom Men’s packages While men’s treatments have been on many menus for some time now, groom packages and groomsmen parties are on the newer side. More grooms than ever before are coming in for a mini spa day with their best man, groomsmen, father and father of the bride. A White Pond Paradise’s philosophy is to keep it simple, which is why they offer the basics in their Groom’s Detailing Package (60-minute Swedish Massage, Classic Manicure, Shampoo, Haircut and Finish for $115) and accompanying Groomsmen Package (Classic Manicure, Shampoo, Haircut, and Finish, $45 per Groomsman). Lucas notes that one in every four bridal bookings is for the grooms. Rancho Valencia combines one of their clients’ favorite activities with a little pre-wedding pampering by offering the Don’t Forget the Groom! package, which includes a round of golf, a “Man”-icure, and a 90-minute massage for $375. Townhouse Spa has also seen an increase in grooms coming in with their wedding party and male relatives for two or three hours of massages, lunch and cocktails. “Our Eastern Meridian Massage is a shiatsu massage that is very popular with the men because they like it hard-core— straight to the point and without aromatherapy,” says Ahn. The 90-minute treatment is offered in The Gentleman’s Spa

Day package, which also includes a 15-minute herbal steam and a choice of a Buff Pedicure or Replenishing Facial for $265 for two and a half hours. Grooms also enjoy their Executive Treatment package that includes the Townhouse Spa Relaxation Massage, Fitness Facial and Townhouse Manicure for $250 for two and a half hours. “I think the groom business will keep rising, as we’re in an age where it’s not just okay, but it’s necessary, for the groom to take extra care of himself for his wedding day,” adds Gruber. n

John Renucci, M.D., F.A.C.S., is founder and CEO of TURO Skin. He is a board certified plastic surgeon who specializes in esthetic surgery. Dr. Renucci is also a partner at Plastic Surgery Associates, a board member for Premier Skin Care and a clinical assistant professor at Michigan State University. He is a member of the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery and the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, as well as a fellow of the American College of Surgeons.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #270 on reader service card

Page 66 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

by Randy Miller, M.D.


scoping the mind of a physician

PLASTIC SURGEONS, DERMATOLOgists, anti-aging physicians and owners of freestanding medical spas all want to have the right estheticians on their team, as this component of their business is essential to patient satisfaction and the overall success of their facilities. This article reveals how a medical practitioner seeks out the perfect esthetician, provides them with training, integrates them into a medical practice and retains high quality staff.

Where do medical practitioners seek out estheticians?

photo: Dean Bertoncelj/

Medical professionals often consider local beauty schools a great resource for finding qualified estheticians. As an esthetician, if you are not a new graduate, it is important that you have maintained your continuing education hours on a yearly basis. Spa business managers must make sure that any esthetician they want to hire is licensed in their specific state. Licensure and continuing education requirements vary by state. For example, Florida requires 16 hours of continuing education per year.

What qualities do medical practitioners look for in an esthetician? If you want to stand out as a top candidate for working in a medical spa, it is important to demonstrate a warm and compassionate disposition. A medical practice needs professionals who possess a genuine concern for the health and welfare of patients. You should May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

also be well-versed in anatomy and cutaneous science, and have a thorough understanding of the structure and physiology of human skin. It is also important that you speak the same language as the patients. Bilingual (English and Spanish speaking) estheticians are preferred in states such as Florida, Texas and California. Strong communication between patients and estheticians is essential.

How do medical practitioners train estheticians? As an esthetician, you develop your basic skills while in cosmetology school through study and practical hands-on instruction. As new treatment technologies become available, it is important for physicians and spa owners to evaluate the safety and efficacy of these treatments before implementing them into their businesses. Once it is determined that a new treatment is safe and effective, staff are trained by clinical specialists associated with the company that distributes the product or technology.

What is the esthetician’s role in a medical practice? In a surgical practice, the esthetician prepares the patient with preoperative skin conditioning, followed by postoperative skin care as it relates to that particular treatment. If practicing in a freestanding spa that does not offer medical services, the esthetician evaluates the client, formulates the plan of care, performs the treatment and provides aftercare.

How do medical practitioners compensate estheticians? Incentives are an excellent motivator for any employee. As an esthetician in the medical spa, you can be paid a percentage based on the cost of the treatment and a separate percentage commission based on the sale of skin care products. Many medical practices provide a base salary in addition to commission, a practice that has been utilized with great success. This is especially important during slow weeks when there may not be as many treatments, and therefore less commission for the esthetician. A good medical practice retains high quality estheticians by showing appreciation for good work and building upon your attributes. A good medical spa employer will increase your incentives and salary over time, based on your production and the quality of your work. n Randy Miller, M.D. is a board certified cosmetic and reconstructive plastic surgeon. He is an internationally recognized leader and innovator in cosmetic surgery and a pioneer of stem cell procedures. Dr. Miller is a clinical professor of plastic surgery at the University of Miami. He previously served as president of the Miami Society of Plastic Surgeons and the Florida Society of Plastic Surgeons. For more information, visit • Page 67


Where does stem cytokines extract come from? The controversy of stem cells pertains only to the use of cells from embryos—so called embryonic stem cells. Most companies use only adult mesenchymal stem cells donated by healthy volunteers. Just as there is no ethical concern over storage of umbilical cord blood for the stem cells it contains, there is no concern over donated adult cells. Donated mesenchymal stem cells come from two major sources—fat obtained during liposuction and bone marrow donated by young volunteers. Newer studies suggest that bone marrow stem cells are preferable, as they are the ones that normally control healing in the skin. Unlike fat stem cells, bone marrow stem cells produce stem cytokines that are anti-inflammatory.

Understand the technology Cytokines stimulate, propagate and regulate new cell production in human skin. These “messaging” molecules mobilize cell division to help heal age related damage. Cytokines have pow-


CYTOKINES EXTRACT the latest in the battle against skin aging

BY GEORGE TAYLOR, M.D. erful influence over skin texture and quality because they regulate cell shape, metabolism and migration from one location to another. Because cytokines are the “words” the body’s cells use to control tissue repair and regeneration, and to dampen the damaging effects of inflammation, topical application to the skin can slow down the signs of aging. Stem cytokines extract is produced by culturing mesenchymal stem cells in laboratory flasks. While they grow, the stem cytokines they produce are collected and used as the active ingredients in skin care products. After culture, the cells are discarded.

Page 68 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photo: Shots Studio/

TOPICAL APPLICATION OF HUMAN STEM cytokines is the newest anti-wrinkle strategy. Stem cells are being celebrated as a groundbreaking innovation in anti-aging in the United States. They were first used in medical procedures. After being transferred out of the body, they were put through a centrifuge-like process and injected back into the body to heal joint issues. Patients noticed an unexpected cosmetic perk—their skin looked smoother and had less wrinkles! Studies have shown that applying stem cytokines extract directly to the skin has the same effect. Human stem cytokines govern many healing and regenerative functions including inflammation, which contributes to skin aging. This makes them one of the most exciting captured biological processes today!

What is the role of cytokine stem cell technology in skin care? In several controlled in vitro studies, human stem cell extracts have been proven to upregulate the following: • EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS • ELASTIN • COLLAGEN All of this results in greater hydration and elasticity to improve skin complexion and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. In addition, topical application of stem cytokines helps to reduce the recovery time following esthetic skin procedures, such as laser resurfacing, chemical peels and dermabrasion. May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Stem cytokines in the real world Estheticians now offer anti-aging products containing stem cytokines derived from BM-MSCs (bone marrow mesenchrymal stromal cells), and their clients are delighted with the results. Genie Valen, director of Sterling Aesthetics in Santa Fe, NM claims that a two-part anti-aging system containing stem cytokines is now her most valuable take home product. She especially recommends the product for clients undergoing micro-needling and laser or chemical peel resurfacing. “Having healthy skin is important to get the best outcome and these products accomplish this perfectly,” she says. The fact that clients “see major differences that keep them coming back for more” means repetitive sales and more revenue. 4

Newer studies suggest that bone marrow stem cells are preferable, as they are the ones that normally control healing in the skin. • Page 69

Stem cytokines extract is produced by culturing mesenchymal stem cells in laboratory flasks. While they grow, the stem cytokines they produce are collected and used as the active ingredients in skin care products.

Lina Jacobson of Essential Skincare in Boise, ID tells a similar story. “Women will not re-purchase products if they do not see any difference. I’ve experienced 100 percent re-purchase, that’s a record.” She incorporates backbar products into her routine and sends clients home with the system. “When I re-examine their skin a month later, I see real improvement—smoother texture, lessening of photo-damage, more even tone, less pigmentation concerns and much less redness, especially my rosacea clients.” The pro-healing anti-inflammatory benefit is the reason why Allen Howes, the president of Lasering USA, now includes stem cytokine

products as part of the company’s recommended pre- and post-fractional CO2 laser resurfacing protocol. “Downtime is reduced by as much as 40 percent, with much less edema and erythema,” says Howes. He should know, as he was the first person to test the product following a laser procedure. “We tested 20 products over the past five years, trying to find something that shortened and improved the post-treatment course. We never found such a product until now.” n George Taylor, M.D. is a former anesthesiologist with a strong interest in the treatment of chronic skin wounds. After a sports injury forced his retirement from clinical medicine in 2001, he served as medical director for a home health and hospice agency, and as a venture capital liaison and executive for several pharmaceutical startups. Dr. Taylor’s interest in stem cells and skin care evolved from studying impaired wound healing in diabetic patients.

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Page 70 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

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THE ART OF SPA PACKAGES HOW TO CREATIVELY DESIGN SPA PACKAGES Spa package types and advantages One day and series spa packages are good ways to give clients more value for their money and allow them to try a variety of treatments, some they might have never sought, and enhance treatment results—a sound approach to get clients to come back and refer their family and friends. ONE-DAY SPA PACKAGES: At Spa Django Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort in Austin, TX, spa packages offer a discount of up to 10 percent compared to single treatments. “This provides a bit of an incentive for guests who might be looking at two treatments anyway,” says Spa Django director Heidi Smith. “It saves them a bit of money while allowing them to maximize and realize their desired spa experience.” At the Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne Spa in Miami, FL, guests get a 15 percent discount for packages that mix four or more services. By combining treatments under a single package at an appealing price, spas give hesitant patrons the little push that they need to go for more—it’s a common marketing trick, more is less is more. Clients get to experience new treatments they can’t live without, and the spa bolsters their reputation. It’s a win-win situation.

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photos: Apples Eyes Studio/

IT MIGHT SEEM LIKE A RATHER STRAIGHTFORWARD task: Pick a few treatments, bundle them up, choose a name and voilà! You have just created your very own spa package—or so you think. It turns out that spa packaging takes a bit more savoir-faire. It requires some sound knowledge of your specialty, location, clients, how you can get them to come back and how you can generate new patrons. It mixes business savvy with marketing flair and a zest of creativity—spa packaging is very much an art, one worth looking into. According to a 2013 U.S. study by the International Spa Association (ISPA), the spa business is flourishing. From 2011 to 2012, spa visits have increased to 160 million—a hike of 4 million—boosting the industry’s total revenue to $14 billion. The ISPA also counted more locations and more employees. These are good times for the industry, times for spa owners to redouble their efforts, expand their business and reach out to those who have yet to discover the joys of spa going. Bundling treatments is a fairly costless addition that can spruce up any business—spa packaging might be just the way to go.



3 BY ANNA PONIROS SERIES SPA PACKAGES: The packages follow the same vein. They allow you to build a positive rapport with clients as they return for their treatments, get the desired results and enjoy the savings. Spa Montage Laguna Beach, CA offers massages, facials, manicures and pedicures in series, such as the Surrender to Massage, a series of six 60-minute massages for $1,080, a savings of $270. Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa in New York, NY offers series discounts where clients get a 10 percent rebate for the purchase of six treatments, one free treatment for eight or two complimentary services for 10. Under that offer, the 50-minute Swedish Massage, a $125 single treatment, costs $1,250 for a series of 12, a savings of $250.

Standard menu and seasonal packages Successful spas swear by their standard menu of packages. These include those that are available year round that their customers favor, and the seasonal packages, offered for the holidays or special promotions, for which regular and occasional clients show up for the limited time services. “I find that seasonal packages are the best way to introduce guests to new treatments,” says Amber Loose, director of the May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Peninsula Spa at the Peninsula Beverly Hills, CA. “Guests are more likely to book outside of their comfort zone when the services are presented in a package, with either added value or discounted pricing.” Packages that target couples, expectant mothers, wedding parties and men are in-demand throughout the year. In a survey conducted of 1,163 establishments nationwide between February and May 2013, including day and resort hotel spas, the ISPA found that more than half of the spas catered to couples and mothers to be. A whooping 91 percent of resort hotel spas offer couple packages—and nearly half of them specialize in men, teenagers and wedding parties.

Increase spa business through creative package design Know your business, your clients and the competition. Keep track of your clients, their gender, age, marital status and anything else that could give you a hint as to what fits their needs. Get to know their names and their preferences. Clients will feel loyal to practitioners who sincerely engage them. With an eye out on the surrounding spas and what they offer, focus on your specialty, why it works and how to make your business stand out. “We factor in types of treatments, special occasions, and the amount of time a guest has,” Bremer says. Smith and Loose also account for guests’ preferences and feedbacks.

Package naming Creating catchy names for packages that speak to clients and reflect the unique services of your spa or allude to a special occasion is also a must. The Gemstone Revival package at the Peninsula Spa at the Peninsula Beverly Hills refers to the spa gemstone oils specialty. It is comprehensive and engaging, and most likely leads clients to believe the results will be fabulous, just like the name. The Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne Spa offered a limited time Speed Dating package in February—playing on Valentine’s Day—that combined three 25-minute services. When it comes to finding good package names, Bremer says he watches the news, pulls from pop culture and gets inspired by the local scenery.

Marketing Include a sound marketing plan and patrons are bound to come. Social media can create a constant buzz with spa-goers who always want to be in the know. Promoting offerings on the website and collecting clients’ emails to advertise current and upcoming specials can help your business generate constant interest. continues • Page 73

spa|the art of spa packages

“Marketing and distribution of the information determines the level of success for new offerings. If we place collateral in the hotel rooms, fitness center, relaxation rooms and social media outlets, then the program is most likely going to be more successful,” Loose says. “The secret is awareness.”

Increase clientele Seek out new clients. A quick look at the population where your spa is located can be a great indicator as to whom to target, or it could reveal a subgroup that has yet to be tapped. A spa in the vicinity of a college town could create post-midterm packages tailored for the stressed yet frugal students. For example, a spa located near a military base could offer veteran and family specials.

Effective packages Some packages are extremely popular, and this should not be a reason to shy away from them. Spas can play on their themes, products and specialty ingredients to create unique offers. No two massage and facial packages are created equal. Here are some mainstream package themes. COUPLES PACKAGES: Twosomes other than the obvious romantic duo can fall under the couples category, such as friends or mothers and daughters. The Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne Spa offers a couples package for $655 that includes two massages, facials and manicures with a simple, charming and rather neutral name, the Atlantic Duet. EXPECTANT MOTHER PACKAGES: Pregnancy is a unique time in a woman’s life. The body goes through changes that not only bring that natural glow but also many aches and pains. Spa Django in Austin, TX caters to mothers-to-be with their three-hour Bundle of Love package, which combines a massage, facial and pedicure for $355. MEN’S PACKAGES: Men are less likely to go for certain individual treatments such as facials, but if these are included in a package they will give into the temptation. Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa in New York invites men to a $281 Ideal Break for Men that includes a 50-minute massage, a 25-minute time saver facial and a gentleman’s pedicure. WEDDING PACKAGES: Brides often seek to improve their looks and calm their nerves before the wedding. Grooms and the bridal party, who can easily be overlooked spa patrons, can be just as frenzied before the big day. The I Spa at Intercontinental in San Francisco, CA, covers all the bridal bases. Brides can choose from four packages, including the 6-Month Series for $1,950—a monthly massage, facial and body treatment—the Sweet Love Package that combines a massage, facial, manicure and pedicure for $300, a $470 Just like Heaven combo where a choice of a bikini or Brazilian wax is added to the treatments, and the $760 My Big Fat Wedding, where no part of the body is left unattended.

Men can go solo for the $270 Groom Me, or the $130 Boys to Men groomsmen package that includes a complimentary glass of wine or beer. HOLIDAY THEMED PACKAGES: Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, the holiday season and any other holidays in between can be successful limited time packages, where gift baskets can be combined with gift certificates. Even the seasons can inspire special offers. During the slower summer months, the Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne Spa participates in the citywide Miami Spa Month promotion, which lures clients in with a 50 percent discount on services—something that Bremer says has become a tradition for many locals who come in groups to the spa. TEEN PACKAGES: Packages that cater to youth are on an upward trend. While different precautions have to be taken into consideration—such as the required presence of an adult for facials and massages of children under a certain age— these packages can bring new clientele to your business. Spa Django offers the Wild Hare Youth Spa services for children under 16, from massages to facials, manicures and pedicures, including a special Family Day on Wednesdays in July and August that gives family members access to locker room amenities for a daily fee, $15 for resort guests and $35 for locals. CUSTOM PACKAGES: Customized packages allow clients to have a say on what they want for a set price. Patrons can build their own package from a list of options, discuss their needs with therapists and feel truly special. The Surrender package at the Spa Montage Laguna Beach is a great example of a package that gives clients a chance to discuss and assess their needs, their diet and exercise routine with specialists. From here, a two-hour, one of a kind treatment is created. Almost anything goes, from a body scrub to a massage or a facial, starting at $455. At the Peninsula Spa at the Peninsula Beverly Hills, clients can opt for the Peninsula Signature Custom Massage, targeted to either soothe sore muscles, release tension or get reinvigorated for 60 or 90 minutes, starting at $175. “I believe custom packages are now the trend,” Bremer says. “The frequent spa guests are very well educated and know what they like. The custom package creates more of a personalized experience for the guest.” n Anna Poniros holds an M.S. in nutrition and public health from Columbia University. Certified in holistic health, detox nutrition and Ayurvedic therapies, she is a licensed esthetician and registered yoga teacher who advocates holistic health-oriented spa therapies and organic skin care. Contact her at 914.610.0144 or

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JAR OF GOLD The Honey Heel Glaze from Farmhouse Fresh Goods® is a divine, honey-based moisture serum that seals in moisture and brings rich color back to tired feet for an instant pedicure. The finest of moisturizing elements have been incorporated from genuine honey, aloe leaf juice and pineapple and papaya fruit extracts, says the company. 888.773.9626

SHED THE CELLULITE The Cavitation & RF SlimSpa Gel contains a combination of ingredients recognized to enhance cavitation treatments of fat deposits and cellulite. These include centella asiatica (gotu kola), artichoke, caffeine and L-carnitine, to name a few. 800.404.6888

Page 76 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

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The Firming and Shaping Gel from Circadia by Dr. Pugliese is a light, fast-absorbing gel that noticeably smoothes, tightens and improves the appearance of skin texture and cellulite, says the company. This product was among those awarded the LNE & Spa Best Product 2013. 800.630.4710


CAFFEINATED BODY CARE Cellulite Control by SkinPhD is a highly effective dermatological body care preparation, formulated with natural coffee and arnica extracts to help eliminate the appearance of fatty deposits and work synergistically with the stimulating effects of ginger. Glaucine, a scientifically advanced ingredient, reduces the appearance of cellulite, while improving the skin’s texture and smoothness, says the company. Regular use of this product leaves the skin looking significantly firmer. 888.855.5245

POWERFUL PENETRATION Microneedling is all the rage right now. DermaFrac by Genesis Bio is a predictable and uniform microneedling treatment. According to the company, DermaFrac needles pierce the skin painlessly while simultaneously transporting potent solutions into it. The DermaFrac treatment is an advanced treatment that gives your clients painless, significant improvements! 888.577.7335

WEAR TO REPAIR Copper enhanced fabric by CASS Luxury Shapewear helps improve skin tone and texture while your clients wear it, says the company. Tops, dresses and bottoms are seamlessly engineered with patented INVISUPPORT technology and exquisite fabric for comfort, fashion and versatile styling. 610.444.7555

Page 78 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

Skin Care for life inside and out


That Fits EVERY client EVERY business.

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when and how to hire a spa consultant

by Mara Shorr

efits, that come with a qualified full-time candidate.

What to look for when hiring an outside consultant


Ask for a list of their typical clients, including the industries they specialize in, along with a list of references. You need to know that your contractor understands the guidelines, rules, regulations and laws within the beauty, esthetic and cosmetic industries.

Request a complete list of the consultant’s services. You do not want to start working with them and realize later that you are going to be billed additional hours every time another person has to be contracted.

you are just not able to do it yourself? Do you suspect that a staff member is sneaking money from the till? For most small spas, having an accountant, HR manager, website developer, marketing department or even practice administrator on staff full-time just does not make sense financially. There is typically not enough work in those fields to justify hiring someone whose sole job relies on those tasks. Outsourcing these items to an expert who works on many accounts in your industry can save you the expenses, including salary and ben-

Make sure the consultant is not working for your competitors. You do not want your trade secrets to be given away. Request a complete list of the consultant’s services. You do not want to start working with them and realize later that you are going to be billed additional hours every time another person has to be contracted. Always get your details in writing ahead of time. These should include how you will be billed, and how much. Do you have to sign a contract for a certain length of time? Are you charged by the

2. 3.

quarter hour, half hour or hour? Are you charged for a five-minute phone call, one line text and single question email? Resolve how the agency/contractor/consultant will fit into the spa’s existing structure. Clarify who the main point of contact will be inside your spa. Will the consultant attend your regular staff meetings, either in person or virtually, in order to stay abreast of what is going on amongst your staff, or will you connect with them one-on-one? Know which services the agency/ contractor/consultant will handle for the spa, and which they will not. For example, you may find that your receptionist has a knack for writing e-newsletters, but doesn’t know a thing about managing databases or putting together the final graphic piece. Your manager may be able to pull your financials from your software, but does not have the time or experience to properly analyze them on his or her own. Use your team members to accomplish as much as you can in-house, as this can save you time and money down the road. There is no need to pay a consultant $150 (or more) an hour to do something that your own team can do. n



Mara Shorr is the vice president of marketing and business development for The Best Medical Business Solutions, a Florida-based company helping esthetic and cosmetic medical practices and spas with the financial, operational and administrative health of their business. She is a Level II and III certified esthetic consultant, utilizing knowledge and experience to help clients achieve their potential. Shorr is a national speaker and writer, and can be contacted at

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photo: wavebreakmedia/

WHEN IT IS TIME TO HIRE A SPA consultant, you want to know you are in the right hands. Depending on the type of consultant you are looking to hire, the reasons for seeking outside help will be drastically different. Often, you may see issues come up that are outside of your wheelhouse. For example, do you need a custom brochure designed? Do you need a strong negotiator for a new piece of office equipment or the leasing of a new space? Do you know your expenses need tidying, but


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FIRST IMPRESSIONS ARE EVERYTHING TO CLIENTS. Since your retail space is limited in a spa, you need to maximize it to grab your guests’ attention! The last thing you want is a retail space that does not have a clear focus, with an excess of products and accessories that make it look like a second hand store. There are many factors to consider when creating a profitable retail space for your spa. It is essential

Create a teaser Your retail area should be set up at your reception area, where all of your guests will visit at least twice. Make it enticing so that guests spend their brief time in the reception area browsing your carefully selected lineup of products. Include some appealing signage and merchandising materials. Counter cards and shelf-talkers are perfect for this area of your spa.

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photo: GlobalStock/


to avoid simply putting products out randomly. This will not effectively capture your clients’ attention. As a business owner, the first thing you must assess is your clientele. Select brands that are appropriate for the age group and socioeconomic status of your clients. The lines you carry should include home care retail products that enhance the results of your spa services. Consider your gross profit. What are you paying for your products and what are you retailing them for? When dealing with retail lines, there is always a suggested retail price. Make sure you are using it. Your profit markup should be double that of your initial cost in order to make a profit.


Guests are more likely to make a purchase if they can experience the products firsthand through scent and touch, so testers should always be accessible.

Engage your clients Design interactive spaces so your clients can enjoy an authentic shopping experience. Guests are more likely to make a purchase if they can experience the products firsthand through scent and touch, so testers should always be accessible. A makeup testing station is the perfect place for clients to try out the latest cosmetic trends, and an aromatherapy station allows them to experience different scents. A skin care bar, on the other hand, allows clients to test lotions, mists and other products for the face and body.

Suggestive selling Run a new promotion each month, highlighting a different focus item for your customers to experience. This is a great way to offer a brief explanation of the features and benefits of the product itself. Always offer your clients the opportunity to experience the product or use this item during a service to ensure that they are aware of what is new. Having too many things on sale can be overwhelming for both clients and staff. So keep the selection of sale items very limited!

Manage inventory supplies

Rearrange your retail area at least three times a year. Spas tend to get stuck in a rut, and clients get stuck in a visual rut as well. When you move retail items, shelving or tables around, clients will notice products and promotions they did not see before. This also gives your retail area a new, refreshed look.

In order to reduce costs and boost revenue, it is essential to manage your inventory closely. When spas run out of their most popular products, sales are lost and guests are unhappy. On the other hand, carrying too much product results in spoilage, theft and unsold inventory, all of which amounts to loss of revenue. Managing inventory of back bar products is also key; some software systems can forecast shortages based on the services that are booked in the future, automatically deducting inventory as services are completed.

Get noticed

Retail to service ratio

Offer treatments in your retail area to attract the attention of other clients. Consider adding a lash and brow bar or makeup services that instantly boost profits from both services and retail. Clients will be tempted to try an impulse service before or after their appointments. If it is within your license’s scope of practice, also offer eyebrow shaping, waxing, lash extensions and perming. Offer lash-enhancing serums, cosmetics, tweezers or accessories for retail at this bar. Three basic services you should definitely offer are quick, complimentary makeup touch-ups, 20-minute makeup applications and step-by-step makeup lessons.

Make sure you have a consistent retail to service ratio, since this makes up 10 to 15 percent of total spa revenue. Increase it to 20 to 25 percent if your retail to service ratio is aligned. Be aware of every client who comes in for a service and walks out the door without a product. Make sure your staff is educating clients on products. Have the front desk or receptionist finalize the sale with an add-on item or impulse purchase at the register. These are small items, like travel moisturizers, lip balms, etc. Be creative with the add-on sale, and change this monthly to ensure that you always have something fresh to offer! continues

Keep it fresh

May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 83

business|reap the rewards

Retail sales should make up 30 to 50 percent of your net profit in order to boost revenue for your spa.

Make sure you are utilizing your account executives and brand representatives to educate your staff. Without basic product knowledge, your staff will not be able to sell, and you will only have a retail space with products collecting dust. Your rep should offer great selling tools, samples and education to build the excitement for your staff.

Employee compensation plans When it comes to retailing, it is important to have a clear and structured compensation plan for your employees. This is a win-win relationship. Make sure you are setting goals according to their hours worked, and rewarding your staff for reaching their goals. A sliding commission scale is a great way to get your staff to reach the next level with a nice bonus while increasing your profit. Employees also love to compete against

each other. Offer an additional incentive to your staff if there is a new product launch or collection coming out. This will create excitement among your team and boost your bottom line. Retail sales should make up 30 to 50 percent of your net profit in order to boost revenue for your spa. Include retailing in your promotions, seasonal treatments, advertising and marketing and watch your business grow! n

Nicole Rouse is a medical esthetician with more than 17 years of experience. She is currently a strategic development consultant at CosMedix, working closely with dermatologists, plastic surgeons and medi-spas to help them grow their businesses. Rouse has worked with top companies and retailers on all sides of the beauty industry, which has helped her to learn and inspire others.

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Employee training

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build a makeup business BE YOUR CLIENTS’ GO-TO SOURCE FOR BEAUTY

ALL SPA AND SALON OWNERS WANT TO BE their clients’ go-to source for all things related to their beauty. The cosmetics industry has long been referred to as recession proof, because regardless of the state of the economy, people always care about looking good. This means that there will always be an abundance of opportunities to offer your clients makeup applications. The following guidelines provide insight on how to establish a profitable makeup area in your facility.

1. Do your research. Check your local market and survey your clients to determine the level of interest for makeup. Will it help grow your business by attracting new clients and increase revenues as your existing clients visit more frequently? Will it help your retail business? Will it provide your staff with new professional opportunities and increase their motivation?

2. Begin with independent consultants. If you are not

photo: Charlie Edward/

sure about the marketability of makeup services in your area, do not hire a full staffing department right away. Instead, reach out to experts in the area and contract with them to work with your clients. Assemble a team of several special-

ists so that you have plenty of qualified professionals available for weddings, parties and other big events. Review their portfolios, watch them work on actual clients and assess their personal styles to ensure they reflect your facility. Pay them a percentage of the fee you charge your clients.

3. Make room.

When you decide to add makeup services to your business, start small. You do not need to tear your facility apart. You can start small and set up a portable makeup station equipped with storage, display panels and a lighted mirror. Clients should sit in a comfortable chair with arm and foot rests. The chair should be as high as 28 to 32 inches, so the technician does not have to bend over. The makeup station needs to be well-lit. Daylight balanced bulbs should be placed to reflect light on both sides of the face. Lighting from the top only creates unnatural shadows and makes it difficult to see the results of the makeup application. The cosmetics counter can be kept in the middle of an active area to create some excitement and draw attention to your makeup services and products. A client receiving a makeup application is often noticed by others, who are then tempted to get one themselves. 4

BY AMY WALL • Page 87

business|build a makeup business

As a spa or salon owner, selecting the best product line for your business is a big challenge, as there are so many options available. The first place to start is your demographics. Who are your clients? Assess their age, income, shopping habits and interests. These factors determine your buying decisions, and help you choose a makeup line that works well for your services and creates repeat retail sales.

5. Design a service menu. The following four services typically offered in makeup are a good reference base: • A quick, complimentary touch-up. • A daytime makeup application. This service is typically 20 minutes, and the fee ranges from $25 to $40. • The specialty makeup application for a wedding or a black-tie event. This application is generally longer, and the fee ranges from $40 to $70.

6. Introduce your clients to the miracle of makeup! Present makeup prod-

ucts and services to clients in the treatment room following their skin care service. A quick application of powder can even out their complexion and cover any signs of redness that might occur after a facial. After quickly applying eye shadow, blush and lip gloss, your client is ready to face the world. Treatment cabins do not need to be stocked with a full array of makeup, just some basic foundation powders, lip and eye colors. Clients leave feeling more put together, and they are exposed to the products and services. If they seem pleased with the results, invite them to schedule a makeup application or lesson later. continues

photo: Charlie Edward/

Bridal beautification is a very big business. If you are working with the bride, you most likely are getting the business of the entire bridal party.

• A 60-minute step-by-step makeup lesson and a take-home chart in which the steps, tools and colors used are detailed. The price of this service ranges from $65 to $120. The fee can often be waived or discounted with a qualifying retail purchase.

photo: Anna Demjanenko/

4. The perfect product partnership.

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business|build a makeup business

7. Create a wedding program. Bridal beautification is a very big business. If you are working with the bride, you most likely are getting the business of the entire bridal party. Consider offering pre-wedding programs for the wedding party. You can also create and host an event for the bachelorette party!

8. Spread the word! Get the message out that your salon is THE place for great makeup! Approach your local television station, magazines, photographers and modeling schools and offer your services. Start building your salon portfolio. Document “Before” and “After” shots to illustrate your work. Compile a look book and leave it in your reception area so clients can flip through it. n SPA MAKEUP BUSINESS PROFILE

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Amy Wall is a licensed esthetician and the owner of Mendocino Beauty, where she specializes in anti-aging therapies and bridal beauty. With more than 25 years of hospitality training, Wall focuses on creating unique, personalized experiences for clients. Wall serves on the board of directors for the Mendocino Coast Chamber of Commerce, and is a founding member of She can be reached at

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Page 90 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photo courtesy of Red Mountain Resort


SAGESTONE SPA & SALON AT RED MOUNTAIN RESORT IN IVINS, UT The makeup counter is in the middle of the retail store within sight of the front desk. There is an island in the middle of the retail products with two makeup stations. Makeup applications and lessons are offered for a fee, which is deducted if the client spends more than $100 on cosmetics. Complimentary 15-minute makeovers are offered on Wednesday and Friday afternoons. “The benefits of offering this free service have far outweighed any loss of revenue,” says Myrna Beardshear, director of spa and wellness. “More clients sign up because it is free, and after they see what can be done with the makeup, they don’t think twice about spending money on it, and they feel great because they know what to do with it when they return home. The estheticians are not earning service commissions, but they more than make it up in retail commissions.” • Makeup makes up 20 percent of product sales. • Staff earns a 10 percent commission on makeup sales.

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People use Twitter to talk about your business and industry, so use your true authentic voice to build a relationship and culture. THERE IS A HUGE GAP BETWEEN THE SPA INDUSTRY and that of technology. As the spa industry continues to grow, as well as technology, the merging of the two into your spa’s marketing plan is something that cannot be ignored. Social media can be an enormous advantage to your spa, and its proper usage can lend further reach and expansion of your business. Ignoring social media can be a disservice not only to your spa, but also to your clients. There are many misunderstandings and misconceptions about hashtags today, and it is important to know how to use them properly for your beauty, spa or wellness business, and use them to your advantage. You do not want to overuse hashtags, and you also want to make sure you are using them correctly on Facebook and Twitter. When creating a hashtag, proper etiquette is key. The misuse or overuse of hashtags can lead to permanent account suspensions, unfollowing and upsetting the social media community. It is important to ensure that hashtags directly relate to the topic being discussed. Let’s go over these two issues so your post to both of these social networks will be beneficial for you and save you from some “hashtag blunders.”

Hashtags turn topics and phrases into clickable links in your posts on your personal timeline or your business page. This helps people find posts about topics they are interested in on Facebook. To make a hashtag, write # (the number sign), along with a topic or phrase (written as one word) and add it to your post. Also, make sure the hashtag you use is related to that post and makes sense. Do not go on a hashtag frenzy and overuse them, because it will come across as “spammy.” While you are probably used to seeing hashtags come up in the feed, you will be surprised at some, so be careful about how you use them. You might find yourself in the middle of a zone not related to your post. Using key words for your hashtags and using them correctly will boost your search engine optimization (SEO). Do not make up sentences or two to three word sentences that will not even be SEO worthy or pull up in a hashtag search. It is really to your disadvantage and can be annoying to your viewers. Here are several examples of how to use hashtags correctly in your Facebook post, assuming you are scheduling a specific article you have written on your blog or announcing service offers:

• • • • •

7 Tips to Healthier Skin #skincare #healthyskin #skincaretips Experience Anti-aging Benefits with Microcurrent Facial Treatments #microcurrentfacial How Juicing Can Heal The Skin Naturally #juicing #skincare Turn That Frown Upside Down! Book Your Appt for Fuller Lips Today! #lipfiller #injectables Get Your Glow on with Airbrush Tanning #airbrushtanning


by Valarie Hurst

Page 92 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

image: turtleteeth/


Hashtags on Facebook

photo: Warchi/

May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 93

business|how to use hashtags on facebook and twitter When you click on a hashtag, you will see a feed of posts, which includes that particular hashtag. You can search for a hashtag using the search bar at the top of any page. Note that you will only see posts that were shared with you. If you share a public post, like those shared by Pages, and allow people to follow you, anyone who clicks that hashtag can see your post in that feed. You can either use a hashtag within the sentence, as long as it flows naturally, or at the end of your post.

Hashtags on Twitter: Twitter is a completely different community, where a short and sweet message of 140 characters is posted in real time. People use Twitter to talk about your business and industry, so use your true authentic voice to build a relationship and culture. Here are some tips to keep in mind when using hashtags on Twitter to grow your brand: • Clicking on a hashtagged word in any message shows you all other Tweets marked with that keyword. • People use the hashtag symbol # before a relevant keyword or phrase (no spaces) in their Tweet to categorize the Tweets and help them show up more easily in Twitter Search. • Hashtags can occur anywhere in the Tweet—at the beginning, middle or end. • Hashtagged words that become very popular are often Trending Topics.

• If you Tweet with a hashtag on a public account, anyone who does a search for that hashtag may find your Tweet. • Do not #spam #with #hashtags. Do not over-tag a single Tweet. *Best practices on Twitter recommend using no more than two hashtags per Tweet. • Only use hashtags on Tweets relevant to the topic. *Note: To avoid account suspension, read Twitter’s “best practices” on hashtags. As a marketer for your beauty, spa or wellness business, you cannot ignore the benefits of using hashtags. You need to know how to strategically implement your tagged topics. Hashtags can expand your content reach, amplify your brand, target your market, get your content found, improve your SEO and more. n Valarie Hurst is an esthetician with more than 20 years of experience in both business management and the beauty, spa and wellness industry. She is the founder of Valarie Hurst & Company, in which she specializes in Internet marketing, social media and online business coaching to the spa industry. She is now using her business skills to teach her fellow colleagues how to grow and expand their business with today’s technology, using these tools to create a culture of loyal customers. For more information visit




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simplicity Page 96 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014


CLEAN UP YOUR ACT DO YOU EVER STOP AND WONDER HOW life became so complex? I used to think that the further we travel in life, the wiser we become. And with this wisdom, I thought, everything would become much easier, smoother and less stressful…

Life is complex The reality is that the more we learn, the more involved we become, and the more pathways we travel simultaneously. When the flow of good energy is with us, life can be amazing. When it is not, life can quickly become overwhelming and stressful, to the point where your productivity level can rapidly come to a screeching halt. We have all experienced this.

Human ambition

photo: Bowden Images/

Embracing human ambition is a must. We all have more items on our to do list than we can possibly accomplish in the time we have. In business, there is simply more that we want to do, need to do and should do than time permits. Truly accepting and embracing this fact should be our first priority. This gives us peace of mind, and initiates our thought process of priority and planning. We can then very quickly begin to clearly visualize those tasks and objectives that are absolutely necessary, and those that may possess a bit more flexibility with regard to completion. Using this line of thinking further in business allows us to quickly discern services, products and technology that are truly productive and successful, and those that should simply be cut from the team.

Sanity in simplicity Remember to keep things simple. Make observations founded on facts and measurements to establish a strong base of logic. If you already have two skin care product ranges, it does not make a lot of sense to take on a third line unless you


have an amount of foot traffic in your retail area that is well above that of your normal clientele. It does make sense to consider the annual sales numbers of your current product lines. If one is not performing, consider eliminating it. If it is an overwhelming line (as most are), consider eliminating the slow selling line altogether. Both of these simple ideas pave the way for you to consider a new product line, or a few rock star splash products that can be sold in a stand-alone model. This is a great way to test the market for a new brand in consideration of possibly carrying more of the line in the future, as well as ensuring that every product on your shelf is exciting, marketable and a strong player in your retail strategy. On this note, work with manufacturers that champion this retail agility and freedom and will support your unique objectives, regardless of whether it involves one of their products or an entire family of products.

The creation of complexity Many skin care menus are so complex that a client can read the description of a facial two or three times, and still have a hard time making heads or tails of what it involves. They can also be very lengthy, with so many similar options that it becomes more confusing than helpful. Direct and deliberate content is key for quick decision making. Understanding the concept is also essential. continues

BY DAVID SUZUKI May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 97

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Page 98 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

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When it comes to the overwhelming process of selecting technology for your business, the number one rule of thumb is to not overbuy. This is relative to quantity and very relative to price. To begin with, consider the cost of the technology, what it provides and how often the new technology can be used. In short, calculate your return on investment. The device must deliver results, and it must be marketable and reasonably priced. Anything with an excessive price tag simply does not give an equitable return on investment. Most skin therapists in the United States who own their own businesses work by themselves. This being said, there is a limit to how many tools we can use at one time and throughout the day. Therefore, every device that you choose and use must be well designed, dependable and deliver consistent results. Think about your technology strategy in the same way you think about your product strategy. It is prudent to begin your analysis by considering how your current technology is performing, how often it is being used and if it makes sense to keep it on the team. The fact that you own technology does not mean that it is effective. Making tough decisions with your existing technology holdings allows you to consider new, more productive technology that can have a significant impact on the success of your business. Working with a forward thinking technology manufacturer that has created a well thought out strategy for your unique business is key. This allows you to always have the best technology to work with at the present, while perpetually planning for new technology that can be added to the mix when the time is right for your business. Working with a competent technology partner is a great way to simplify your life! Ambition balanced with simplicity is a necessary attribute for every successful entrepreneur. At the end of the day, life is complex and busy—and it is awesome! Embrace your ambitions, prioritize your objectives, stay focused and keep it simple. Make decisions every day that champion your life and business, and use the amazing energy of simplicity to power your journey forward. n

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The Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics’ (CCIC) Leaping Bunny Program has certified jane iredale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP as cruelty free. CCIC is the leading internationally respected coalition responsible for cruelty-free certification of personal care and household products. The Leaping Bunny Logo is to be displayed on product packaging for jane iredale— THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP in 2014. The logo, renowned worldwide for integrity and trustworthiness, symbolizes the continued commitment of the jane iredale brand to innovate within the cosmetics industry and produce safe, healthy and effective products. 800.762.1132


SIX PACKS ON SET South Seas® Skin Care, the official spray tan sponsor for Dancing With The Stars, worked with the cast of 300: The Rise of an Empire. Owner Julie Nostrand spent a day on the set assisting the makeup team for the epic prequel. Actors were sprayed with the renowned Tahitian Tan Solution, and the character Xexes looked fabulous in the Island Glow Body Bronzer. 866.961.9903

EXCLUSIVE SNEAK PREVIEW The 2014 IMAGE Skincare Worldwide Launch Party took place in March all over the world, giving licensed estheticians, physicians and skin care professionals an exclusive sneak peek at new IMAGE Skincare products. “We are truly realizing our mission of becoming the most innovative brand in the industry,” said Janna Ronert, CEO and founder of IMAGE Skincare. Participating cities included New York, Dubai, Beverly Hills, Chicago, Berlin, London, Las Vegas, Hong Kong, Miami, Milan, Sydney and many others. 800.796.SKIN

NEW LEADERSHIP Performance Health, the manufacturer and marketer of Biofreeze®, Bon Vital’® and TheraBand™ branded products, promoted Lynda Solien-Wolfe to vice president of massage and spa. “Lynda’s broad experience and relationship base within the massage therapy and spa professions will help us realize the tremendous revenue synergies that are possible from our recent acquisition of Bon Vital’,” states Marshall Dahneke, president and CEO of Performance Health. SolienWolfe has more than 20 years of experience in the massage therapy and spa markets. 800.321.2135

Page 100 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

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organic & wellness stress therapy by Oyvind Berg

Conscientiousness and time

STRESS IS A MORE PERVASIVE symptom now than ever in our society, due to the accelerated pace of modern day life. The American Institute of Stress reports that 70 to 90 percent of visits to primary care physicians involve stress-related complaints. This is likely because people tend to focus on the ailments they are suffering due to continuously excessive levels of stress. Spa treatments do more than relieve immediate symptoms of stress; they also provide your clients with long-term tools for managing stress in their lives. The spa experience can help stressed out clients to live a life of greater health, energy and happiness. The spa can provide immense psychological benefits for improved overall well-being.

Purpose and expectation Visiting a spa provides benefits because it is done intentionally by spa-goers. Taking deliberate steps to improve their own wellbeing can have positive effects for your clients. The “power of intention” has been popularized by modern day healers such as Wayne Dyer and Deepak Chopra. In fact, it is a highly researched healing method in science—the placebo effect, which is

A spa session generally involves being in a quiet space for a specific amount of time, indulging in the experience or enjoying uninterrupted time to focus on one’s thoughts. Often, the time your client spends in a spa treatment is the only waking hour in which they are disconnected from technology and all the demands of

Visiting a spa makes guests feel good. Spa professionals can easily tap into this market by creating unique stress relief treatments. a fast-paced world. In the spa setting, clients benefit from the presence of another person, whose role is to nurture and care for them through touch, sound and aroma. Many spas are helping to alleviate clients’ symptoms by offering services that specifically address stress. Several facilities offer approaches to healing that fight stress faced by modern clients. The Monix Clinical Skincare & Spa Retreat in Gillette, WY offers stressed out patients a technology that combines color, sound and aroma for an outstanding customized rejuvenation experience. It is based on vibration and synchronization (being in sync), where the right color is matched with the corresponding musical

note, as well as the best aroma to stimulate the appropriate chakra. The Raj Ayurveda Health Spa in Fairfield, IA offers guests a haven to indulge in deep rest and relaxation, recover from stress and anxiety, rejuvenate and learn natural, effective stress management techniques for their daily lives. The Raj offers Ayurvedic treatments that address stress disorders and burnout. Services are designed to help clients recover from stress and anxiety. At the Life in Balance Spa at Miraval in Tuscon, AZ, guests can create a customized experience designed around de-stressing. There are four types of programs offered: Circles, Diamonds, Pentagons and Rectangles. The Circle program is designed to help the guest manage stress and embrace transition. The Diamond program is intended for those who are seeking rejuvenation and a fresh outlook. The Pentagon program is focused on living a healthy life in mind, body and spirit. The Rectangle program is for those who want to reconnect with oneself and others. Each program offers a variety of classes and lectures tailored to the intention of that program. Visiting a spa makes guests feel good. Spa professionals can easily tap into this market by creating unique stress relief treatments. n Oyvind Berg, the founder and president of Harmonial Corporation, has been in the spa industry for over 15 years. He is currently involved in the Harmonial project, which synergistically brings together the therapeutic effects of color, sound and aroma. Harmonial is an effective modality to reduce stress and sleeplessness. For more information, contact Berg at 561.447.7170 or visit

Page 102 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photo courtesy of Harmonial Corporation

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the pitta dosha KEEPING COOL UNDER FIRE!

Determine your clients’ dosha See sidebar to determine your client’s dosha. Questionnaires that help identify clients’ Ayurvedic skin type are used in many spas that offer Ayurvedic treatments. The Rancho La Puerta in Mexico, Raj in Fairfield, IA and BodiScience Holistic Spa in Beverly, MA are just a few facilities that utilize this questionnaire as a tool. Everyone has all three of these energies in varying proportions, which in turn determine the body’s strengths, challenges and appearance. The various Ayurvedic constitutions, known

BY ROBERT SACHS Page 104 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photos: Rolphot/

THE AYURVEDIC APPROACH TO SKIN CARE IS VERY different than that of modern medicine. Ayurveda addresses the underlying issues that create skin problems rather than rely on topical products. The theory behind the ancient medical system of India is that skin conditions are due to an imbalance in the client’s dosha. A dosha is the mind-body type. Once you identify your client’s dosha, you can help them take steps to prevent skin problems before they even begin. The three dosha types in Ayurveda are Vata, Pitta and Kapha. Each dosha has a unique set of characteristics.

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Pitta is expressed to the outside world through the eyes. When Pittas are balanced, their skin is clear and radiant, and their eyes are bright. as prakruti, are found in these combinations. There are seven basic constitutional types, and each possesses its own beauty. However, the dosha that catches our eye is Pitta. Why? Because Pitta is about radiance and charisma—and the Pitta dosha determines how much radiance and charisma we naturally project. This article specifically focuses on recommendations for your Pitta clients.

Typically, the initial Ayurvedic consultation takes about an hour and a half. Ask your client to complete a detailed survey to assess their metabolic body type; this will help you determine which dosha your client is. Based on the results, write up an individualized healing plan for your client, including diet and lifestyle recommendations. You will make recommendations on many aspects of his or her lifestyle, including dietary adjustments or restrictions and changes in sleeping patterns. You may also recommend certain yoga, breathing or meditation exercises, as well as herbs that may be beneficial for his or her dosha type. This first Ayurveda consultation lasts anywhere from 45 to 90 minutes, and costs between $65 and $300. This consultation is usually followed up by one or two brief checkups within six weeks. continues

ayurvedic skin assessment MY SKIN...

photo: tschitscherin /

VATA q is dry—especially when I travel, and in winter or windy weather q is fine—I can easily feel my bone structure q is cold and rough or flaky q tans deeply and easily—I love the sun q enjoys oils and rich creams q has many fine lines, especially around my eyes q on my lips cracks easily q looks gray and lifeless when I’m stressed or tired q rarely has breakouts PITTA q is sensitive—soaps and cosmetics easily give me itchiness or rash q is medium thickness— I can feel muscles when I touch my face q is warm and soft to the touch q burns easily—gets freckles; heat can make me irritable q prefers light lotions or gels q has visible blood vessels, especially on my nose and cheeks

May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

q on my lips is prone to bleed or get sores q looks sallow or flushed when I’m stressed or tired q is prone to inflamed and yellow breakouts KAPHA q is prone to congestion q is thicker—I feel full flesh when I touch my face q is cool and moist to the touch q tans slowly—heat makes me feel clammy quickly q hates heavy or oily cosmetic preparations q has enlarged pores, especially on my nose and chin q on my lips gets sticky q looks pale or puffy when I’m stressed or tired q is prone to blackheads, whiteheads or deep cysts

A questionnaire about your client’s skin type is necessary to help guide product selection. Do you help them select their skin care products based on skin condition or general dosha balance? When working with the skin, focus on the skin condition that presents itself, and keep the general dosha balance in mind as well.

TOTALS FOR: Vata: ___ Pitta: ___ Kapha: ___ • Page 105

Healing plan for Pitta clients Pitta is often referred to as the dosha of fire. It is made up of the fire and water elements in Indian Ayurveda. In the Tibetan tradition, air is also included. The Pitta dosha controls metabolic processes and digestion. Pitta is expressed to the outside world through the eyes. When Pittas are balanced, their skin is clear and radiant, and their eyes are bright. A subtle force in Pitta known as Tejas stems from healthy glands, which results in exuding sensuality and magnetism.

Turmeric powder is packed with anti-inflammatory properties. It can be included in cooking.

Pitta skin It is necessary for Pitta skin types to stay cool. They are sensitive to sun exposure, and their skin tends to burn easily. A Pitta imbalance can result in inflammatory skin conditions, including rashes, acne and psoriasis.

Ideal foods and herbs Cooling foods with a high water content help keep Pittas in balance. Sweet, watery fruits make great snacks for Pittas. The following three herbs are ideal for balancing Pitta skin: • Turmeric powder is packed with anti-inflammatory properties. It can be included in cooking. • Amla berry is a cooling herb available in the form of jam and a supplement. Pittas can take up to 250 mg of amla berry a day. • Fennel seeds are ideal for digestion. Recommend that your clients nibble on a small portion of fennel seeds following meals.

What to avoid

Robert Sachs is a counselor, licensed massage therapist and educator. He is the author of Tibetan Ayurveda: Health Secrets From the Roof of the World and coauthor with Melanie Sachs of Ayurvedic Spa. Visit Sachs’ website at, email him at, call him at 866.303.3321 or phone/fax him at 805.543.9291. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #317 on reader service card

Page 106 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photo: Ekaterina Lin/

Spicy foods aggravate Pitta skin, so advise your Pitta clients to avoid foods like garlic, chilis, shellfish and eggs. The heat in spicy foods increases the intensity of Pitta clients’ own natural heat. A modest portion of white wine or beer may help cool down their heat, but they should stay away from hard alcohol. Smoking is not recommended in Ayurveda in general, but its harsh effects are especially noticed in the Pitta dosha. Let the natural passion and fire that your Pitta clients possess radiate warmth and compassion into the world. If they pay attention to the simple guidelines outlined here, particularly regarding their behavior and mindfulness, their being will shine, regardless of their age and body type. n

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Detoxifying facial with balancing cucumber lemon juice


The high water content in cucumbers makes them perfect for replenishing stressed out cells that may be lacking the water essential for proper function and filtering of waste. Despite the acidity of the lemon juice outside the body, lemon is highly alkaline and helps restore proper mineral balance to the body for optimal function when ingested. Since many popular foods today are highly acidic (red meat, processed foods), the incorporation of alkaline foods and juices can help repair the damage done by a busy, convenience based lifestyle. 1 Offer this juice with any detoxifying, deep cleansing or anti-stress facial to fight pollutants, acidity, inflammation and imbalance in the skin and body.

DETOXIFYING CUCUMBER LEMON JUICE RECIPE 1 bunch kale ½ bunch celery ½ bunch parsley 1 cucumber with ends removed 1 lemon with peel removed 2 inches fresh ginger root 1 green apple (optional) Wash and juice these vegetables for a detoxifying green drink your clients are sure to love.

Anti-aging facial with ruby red tomato basil juice One of the most prevalent causes of age damage is unprotected exposure to the sun. While proper sun protection products are still required, some studies suggest that tomatoes make the skin more resistant to sun damage. A 2008 study

Page 108 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photo: Evgeny Karandaev/

holistic approach to wellness has become less of a fad and more of a mainstay in the beauty world. As a result, savvy spas are finding creative ways to incorporate practices that encourage clients to achieve both an inner and an outer glow. Juicing offers the perfect combination of powerful nutrition and endless potential for enticing spa themes. Juice bars are popping up in spas across the country, and some teams are taking it to the next level by offering a superfood juice as part of the spa treatment package. Clients are sure to love these nutritional boosts as an enhancement to their facial treatments. You might even find that you already offer a facial treatment that could be spiced up by the addition of a superfood cocktail add-on.

photo: Gilles Lougassi/

found that, due to a compound called lycopene, tomatoes have the remarkable ability to help the skin protect itself against UV induced damage. This study asked half of the participants to consume five tablespoons of standard tomato paste in two tablespoons of olive oil per day, while the control group of participants consumed just the olive oil. The skin of participants in both groups was exposed to UV light before the study began and again after 12 weeks. The skin of participants who had consumed the tomato paste was significantly more capable of protecting itself against the UV exposure than those who consumed only olive oil. 2 This refreshing juice makes the perfect addition to any anti-aging facial, regardless of the theme or ingredients. The simple fact that both the facial and the juice are fighting the signs of aging makes this a perfect partnership. May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

RUBY RED TOMATO BASIL JUICE RECIPE 4-5 large red tomatoes 1 handful of basil Wash tomatoes and basil. Juice basil followed by tomatoes.

Botanical stem cell facial with antioxidant-rich grape, apple and orange juice Botanical stem cells are a potent, non-controversial way to provide superior antioxidant protection to the skin while creating the healthiest environment possible for cells to thrive and reproduce optimally. Grape stem cells are particularly adept at providing a filtering effect in order to protect vital cells from incurring UV induced damage. Apple stem cells have long continues • Page 109

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Apple stem cells have long been touted as the mother of all stem cells, helping to protect the longevity of the skin’s own stem cells.

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been touted as the mother of all stem cells, helping to protect the longevity of the skin’s own stem cells. Finally, orange stem cells give the gift of increased collagen, which leads to better hydration and skin elasticity. Combining a facial infused with these ingredients with the antioxidant benefits of grape, apple and orange juice creates a beautiful blend of antioxidant protection and skin health.

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Offer this powerful free radical fighting juice with any stem cell, antioxidant or vitamin C themed facial for a double dose of protection for the skin and body. GRAPE, APPLE AND ORANGE JUICE RECIPE 2 apples 1 cup of grapes (red) 1 orange Peel the orange, wash the grapes and apples. Juice the apples, grapes and orange together for a sensational botanical stem cell inspired beverage. Try advertising a juice blend as part of a facial package. Simply add $5-$10 onto the facial price, depending on the cost of produce in your area. Whether juices are included as an add-on to a spa treatment or are simply available to guests at a nearby juice bar, today’s convenience driven clients are sure to appreciate the accessibility of this powerful boost of nutrition. n References 1. Wolfe, D. (2002). Eating for beauty. (1st ed.). San Diego, CA: Maul Brothers Publishing. 2.Tomatoes found to fight sun damage. Newcastle University (2008, April 28). Retrieved from http://www. item/1209390017

Erin Ferrill is a licensed esthetician and the national training and development manager for HydroPeptide®. She prepares, coordinates and conducts on-site and web-based education. Ferrill is also honored to serve as a Look Good… Feel Better program volunteer for the American Cancer Society, helping cancer patients deal with the appearance related side effects of treatment. She can be reached at

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #288 on reader service card

Page 110 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

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Black Currant C Serum from Nature Pure Labs is an ultra potent serum composed of densely concentrated Vitamin C globules spread throughout a professional strength complex. It is enhanced with organic black currant, pomegranate, vitamin E and resveratrol extract— derived from the skin of grapes and berries and infused with certified organic botanicals. This serum provides superior antioxidants and is ideal for changes that affect the skin during environmental and seasonal transitions, says the company. 866.640.SKIN

ANTI-AGING POWER The Nourishing Serum from Apothederm® provides a combination of copper peptides, antioxidants and vitamins to help restore vibrancy to the skin while protecting it against free radicals, says the company. Botanicals help calm and soothe, while sodium hyaluronate deeply hydrates and revives tired skin. 877.496.0038

SMOOTHING SUGAR The Raw Sugar Body Scrub by Kat Burki gets rid of dry, dead skin cells for smooth, radiant and polished skin, says the company. Raw sugar saturated with organic coconut and kukui oils exfoliate, while the oils restore moisture and soften skin, leaving it with a clean and fresh natural scent that is irresistible to the touch! 888.881.7677

May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

FRUIT-TASTIC FACIAL Sothys’ new Raspberry & Litchi Seasonal Facial is a refreshing treatment formulated with a cocktail of vitamins to revitalize and protect the skin from sun damage. Raspberry extract acts as a radiance booster while litchi extract hydrates and protects, and white clay purifies and detoxifies the skin, says the company. The complexion is left soft, radiant and refreshed. The products used in the facial include a Raspberry & Litchi 2-in-1 Mask Scrub and a Raspberry & Litchi Oxy-Vitamin Treatment. 800.325.0503







POTENT PEPTIDES Featuring hibiscus seed botanical peptides, yellow plum and gardenia stem cells, the new Arctic Berry Peptide Radiance Cream from Éminence Organic Skin Care is formulated to target collagen loss, dehydration and inflammation. Acting as an anti-aging powerhouse, these peptides gently relax muscles, diminish wrinkle size to provide a Botox-like effect, and naturally boost collagen production, says the company. 888.747.6342

NATURALLY EFFECTIVE Rubber Ducky® 100% Natural Sunscreen Broad Spectrum UVA/UVB fills the accelerating demand for a natural product that goes on clean, clear and dry. At the same time, it achieves the highest rating possible in the United States for the eight-hour water resistance test, using proprietary Certified Ducks-Back™ Water Repellent System, says the company. 480.247.7773

Restore Topical by Osmosis Skincare is a revolutionary product that combines modern technology with an ancient Chinese medicinal herb to help remove toxins, reduce inflammation and repair protein damage to the skin. Restore Topical significantly improves pores, acne, hyperpigmentation, roscaea and many other conditions. It allows the skin to increase its own immune system and helps it heal, offering overall enhanced health for beautiful, even skin, says the company. 877.777.2305

FLOWER POWERED The Intensive Eye Cream from Caviar of Switzerland is enriched with organic floral water, precious caviar extract, vitamins and peptides. It tightens the collagen fiber network to prevent muscles in the eyes from creating wrinkles and fine lines. Dark circles are diminished and the skin around the eyes looks visibly firmer and younger, says the company. 855.587.8781

Page 112 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014


royal toe treatment

by Josie Feria

CRYSTALS ARE A BRIDAL CLIENT’S best friend with this show-stopping pedicure! Add jewels to pedicures and make clients’ toes twinkle on their big day. This pedicure works especially well for destination weddings in warm climates. Bring the bling to teen clients as well as fancy feet, and make them popular at school. The Swarovski Crystal Pedicure is a unique new treatment offered at Lapis Spa in Fontainebleau, Miami Beach, FL. The pedicure involves a trained nail technician individually applying colored Swarovski crystals to guests’ toes for a sparkly new alternative to the traditional pedicure. Perfect for a special occasion or right before your next vacation, client toes will surely make a statement. At $200, the new pedicure offering has generated national awareness for the salon. Vacationers at the hotel are immediately intrigued at the thought of having their toes glitter with Swarovski crystals. The pedicure has also garnered media attention from news outlets across the country.

photo: Mr. Lightman/

Swarovski crystal pedicure SET UP • File • Yellow buffer • Instruments: Nail clipper, cuticle nipper/pusher • Cuticle remover • Dry oil spray • Callus eliminator • Foot scrub • Foot cream • Foot file • 2 hot towels • 2 floor mats • 4 towels • Neck pillow • Polish color selected by client • Top coat May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

• Nail glue • Swarovski crystals to be used Prior to starting pedicure, the client should choose a polish and crystal color. Foot # 1 • Remove foot from water. • Remove polish. • Cut and shape nails to the guest’s preference. • Apply cuticle remover. • Apply callus eliminator if needed. • Place foot back in water. Repeat process on Foot # 2. Foot # 1 • Push back cuticles and ask the guest if they would like to have cuticles trimmed before proceeding to do so. • Spray dry oil on the toenails and buff gently. Repeat process on Foot # 2. Foot #1 • Buff and smooth any callus on heels, toes and base of feet. • Exfoliate foot and leg with foot scrub and wrap with a hot towel. Repeat process on Foot # 2. • Leave hot towels on for one to two minutes. Remove before they cool off. • Wipe feet clean. • Place feet in water and rinse thoroughly. • Remove first foot from water and dry. • Massage foot and leg with foot cream. • Spray dry oil on legs and feet for hydration and shine. • Wipe off excess product with a dry towel as needed.

SPA AT FOUNTAINEBLEAU Bling for the Feet $200 • Spray nail prep product on nails. • Clean nails very well with acetone ensuring all oil is removed. • Remove any loose non-living tissue and hang nails. • Apply foot spray. • Apply nail polish and top coat (wait a couple of minutes before starting to work with the crystals, the polish and top coat need to be dry). • Apply nail glue on one toe, and start applying the crystals one by one, covering the entire nail or partial nail, based on the guest’s preference. • Repeat the same process with each toenail. After all crystals are applied: • Apply another very light coat of nail glue. • Wait a couple of minutes. • Apply a coat of top coat polish. n

Josie Feria, director of spa operations at Fontainebleau’s Lapis Spa, draws from her 30 years of industry experience to create a sanctuary within the iconic Miami Beach hotel. Prior to joining Fontainebleau, Feria worked for some of the most luxurious spas throughout the country, including Elizabeth Arden Red Door Salon and Spa in New York City and The Spa Palazzo at Boca Raton Resort and Club in Boca Raton, FL. • Page 113

by Lydia Sarfati


bridal beauty timeline

SPAS THAT OFFER BRIDAL COUNTDOWN RECOMMENDATIONS AND SPA PACKAGES BEAUTY KLINIEK AROMATHERAPY DAY SPA AND WELLNESS CENTER SAN DIEGO, CA BEAUTYKLINIEK.COM Recommended Countdown to the Wedding bridal services Six months to a year before: Skin evaluation, facial series planning, corrective product recommendations Three months: Microdermabrasion, hair consultation and trial run, makeup trial run, slimming treatment, laser hair removal Two to three weeks: Aromatherapy facial, haircut and color One week: Salt glow for skin, rejuvenating facial, waxing services for body, airbrush tan, lash extensions One day before: Anti-stress aromatherapy massage, mani-pedi, lash tint, eyebrow wax/shape, airbrush tan Wedding day: Makeup application, hair styling ABELLA SALON & SPA OCEAN CITY, NJ ABELLASALON.COM Recommended Bridal Beauty Countdown One to three weeks before: Glowing facial treatment and hair touch-up One to five days before: Leg, bikini and facial waxing; pedicure, paraffin manicure, stress relief body massage Wedding day: Professional hair styling and makeup application

THE WEDDING INDUSTRY IN THE United States is a $51 billion industry that employs nearly 800,000 people, according to market-research firm IBISWorld. With all of the money couples put into their big day, they want to look good in their pictures. As beauty professionals, we have an incredible opportunity to help our clients accomplish this goal, and in the process help relieve them of some of the stress that goes along with planning a wedding. It starts with newly engaged clients who will need classic manicures to complement their shiny rings. Those looking to slip into a smaller dress size need to begin a series of body contouring treatments right away. As the big day draws closer and the planning goes into full swing, the soon-to-be-wed will be in serious need of relaxing massage services. I have created the following beauty timeline for the two weeks prior to the wedding to make your bridal business boom.

The two-week countdown Day 14: The stress is starting to truly sink in at this time. A hot stone massage is perfect for stressed out brides and grooms. Utilize pressure points and variations in temperature to relax muscles and melt away tension. Day 12 and 13: Advise your client to de-stress at a yoga or Pilates class. It will be a nice distraction and help them to relax. Day 11: Help your client shed any dead skin that could get in the way of a radiant complexion on their big day. A gentle granular scrub with humectant

honey will help remove dead skin and create a hydrated glow. A honey polish also works well for the body. Day 10: Now is the time for a spray tan trial. You do not want to risk any unpleasant surprises on the big day. Have your client come in and test out their spray tan. Use this experience to judge the way the color looks on their skin. This leaves enough time for fading before the wedding, in case they prefer a lighter shade. Day 9: Let the de-puffing begin! Make sure that your clients take home soothing and de-puffing eye pads so they can start using them each morning and night. This keeps them looking bright-eyed and fresh! Day 5: Time for the second to last facial before the big day! Choose a facial that does not include extractions. Hydration is all they need now! Day 4 or 3: Apply the final spray tan. Since you have already had a trial run with this tan, application should be a breeze. Day 2: Today is mani-pedi day! Provide a classic manicure and encourage your client to upgrade with a leg treatment that makes her look red carpet ready! She has a lot on her mind, so make sure you are especially sensitive to her needs. All of her services should be flawless. Day 1: Before your client goes into a full face of makeup, administer a hydrating sheet mask to help make her skin glow. As she relaxes and allows the mask to do its work, treat her to a nice hand massage. Throughout this countdown, do not neglect to provide your bridal clients with a plan for their home care! Preparing continues

Page 114 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

photo: iofoto/

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image|bridal beauty timeline brides for the big day provides a huge opportunity to boost retail revenue as well as service revenue. Make sure they are well stocked with all the products you have recommended for their skin type. It is the best way to expedite and enhance the results of their treatments, and make sure that they are happy with their skin for the most important photographs of their lives. There are so many ways that we can help our clients have an enjoyable wedding experience. This is a time of their life when they are really willing to go the extra mile to look and feel their best. Implement this countdown system and have a beautiful and profitable bridal season! n Lydia Sarfati is the president and founder of Repêchage. She is an internationally recognized skin care expert with more than 30 years of experience in the industry, and has been quoted in multiple highly respected publications and appeared on television for her expertise. Sarfati is the honorary chair of EstheticsAmerica, CIDESCO USA and the Skin Care & Spa Council Director of Intercoiffure North America. She is the recipient of numerous prestigious industry awards, including LNE & Spa’s Crystal Award. Email her at Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #177 on reader service card

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Page 116 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

Soft Spoken A FRESH AND PURE WHISPER OF COLOR FOR SPRING PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAREN THOMAS May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 117



May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 119



May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 121


HAIR: TODOR, BUMBLE AND BUMBLE NEW YORK Page 122 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014




PAGE 1: Julie’s skin is prepared using a pre-base cream. Next, an application of water base foundation is applied to parts of the chin, sides of the nose and wherever coverage is desired. A custom blended mix of pure orange pigments and a light/ medium tone concealer are applied to erase the discoloration beneath the inner third of the eyes. Cheeks are enhanced with a sheer ripened peach face glaze, which is applied to the high points of the bone structure and blended. Skin is powdered with a talc free neutral powder to set. Eyes: Following an application of neutral beige shadow base, a coffee shadow is applied to the outer third of eyes. Next, a vintage blue matte liner is applied to the base of the lid. Lashes are coated in a cocoa colored, lash building mascara. On the lips, following an application of highlight around the natural lip shape, a sheer pink lip color is applied to enhance the natural lip shape. PAGE 2: On the eyes, a sheer wash of butter cream is applied as a shadow base over the entire lid. Next, wet custom blended eyeliner is mixed using matte black, pure yellow and blue pigments, resulting in an olive colored liner. Choosing a fine liner brush, the color is laid along the base of the lid from the inner corner and swept to the outer edge of the eyes. Applications of pomegranate cheek tint and lip stains are applied to add color to the features. The use of two opposite shades helps to naturally enhance and brighten the color. Brows are brushed upward and outward, then set to shape.


the nose to highlight and strengthen the feature. A simple wash of sheer shimmer shadow is applied to the eyelid and brushed upward through the brows. Beneath the eyes, a soft white liner is applied inside the lower lid, and the sheer shimmer is applied to the lower outer third of the lower lid. Lips are stained in a matte fresh berry shade.

PAGE 4: Fresh face. Freckles are always a plus, and when combined with the correct products, they can look great in photos. It is always important to choose the proper foundation formula to let the skin shine through. Skin is lightly touched up where needed, using a sheer pigment water base foundation and then powdered to set. Cheeks are accentuated with a candy pink powdered blush at the apple, and back toward the ear. Eyes are color washed in a matching vintage blue shadow. Brows are darkened and shaped using an angled eyebrow brush. A pure oyster white pencil liner is applied inside the lower lid. Lashes are brushed and a coat of matte black mascara is applied. A sheer lip-gloss in candy pink enhances the color of the lips. n Products courtesy of Makeup, Inc. Pamela Taylor is an internationally recognized makeup artist and educator based in New York City. Call 212.620.5792 or visit for more information.

PAGE 3: Taking a cue from the natural wheat tones in the beach grass, a customized foundation several shades deeper than the model’s natural skin tone is created. The foundation is applied to the face and neck. The face is then powdered and set using a disposable powder puff. Next, a quality sable angled powder brush is dipped in a bronzer and applied to the skin to deepen. The face is shaded at the sides of the nose and natural contours, including the jaw line, neck and cheekbones. Pure white matte powder is applied to the bridge of


3 May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 123




RevitaLash Advanced is a breakthrough eyelash conditioner that features a high-impact proprietary technology for dramatic looking eyelashes. It conditions and protects the eyelashes and helps improve flexibility, moisture and shine, says the company. It defends eyelashes from daily aggressors and enhances the appearance of beautiful, younger-looking, more luxurious eyelashes. High impact BioPeptin Complex™ peptides and botanicals keep the eyes soft, sumptuous and healthy-looking. 877.909.5274

It is time to kiss the bride! Irresistible lips are guaranteed with the Stem Cell 3D Lip Enhancer from DermaQuest. It is imbued with firming Maxi-Lip™ peptide and botanical stem cells, which repair and prevent DNA damage, says the company. Instantly plumping and hydrating, this gloss magnifies the lips’ natural color, adding a salacious finish for a beautiful bridal glow. 800.213.8100


PARISIAN CHIC MAQUILLAGE Sothys’ new makeup line is a glamorous collection with professional skin care formulas and high-end packaging with an ultra chic Parisian look. This complete range of foundations, lipsticks and eye products combines the benefits of skin care products and a large choice of textures and shades to adapt to all skin tones and types. 800.325.0503

The Eye & Lip Cream by Le Mieux is an intensely hydrating treatment that provides the ultimate in moisture and repair for silky, smooth skin around the eyes and lips, says the company. The cream features kukui nut oil, ceramides and a rich, peptide-infused concentrate that increases firmness, improves elasticity and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 888.327.8188

Page 124 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

Keep lips sexy and soft with sassy sheer color with Vitamin E Lip Quenchers by Mineralogie. Loaded with nourishing and sun protecting vitamin E, the collection comes in the colors of a summer sunset: Impulse, a shimmering red cranberry; Moxie, a bright iridescent fuchsia; Gilded, a honey bronze with a gold luster; Mango Tango, a sheer peachy coral. 972.620.2818

Pore Minimizer by UltraLuxe is a unique, lightweight liquid powder that doubles as a primer to regulate oil production, while silica tightens and minimizes pore size for a beautiful airbrushed, flawless and shine-free finish, says the company. It also helps conceal imperfections and promotes an acne-free complexion. 855.366.8102


GOLDEN GLOW The new limited edition Golden Shimmer Face and Body Lotion by jane iredale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP® is a lightweight moisturizer that gives off an irresistible caramel brilliance. The face and body lotion creates a subtle veil of sheen designed to warm the complexion, says the company. Worn alone or paired with makeup, the natural botanical formula leaves the skin soft and hydrated. 800.762.1132

May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa




The Perfect Match Gel Polish Lacquer set from LeChat’s new Mermaid Treasures Collection comes in six summery colors: majestic wonders, pearl rose, heart of gold, precious coral, sea trinket and royal crystal. Every Perfect Match gel polish comes with a complimentary Matching Dare to Wear Nail Lacquer, great for matching manicures and pedicures. 800.553.2428






MAY 13

MAY 19

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Boise, ID. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 18 MAY 4 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 4-5 2-day “Skin-Tensive” Training: Advanced Skin Histology, Analysis and Treatments by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.

MAY 5 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 12 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Boise, ID. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Summer Treatments With Acids and Enzymes by Rhonda Allison. Santa Ana, CA. 619.298.7401.

MAY 20 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Central MAY 4 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Oklahoma City, OK. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Page 126 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014

West Central East International

MAY 4-5 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines. Arlington, TX. 800.471.0229

MAY 5 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 6 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 18 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN. May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

East MAY 4 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Charleston, SC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Cleveland, OH. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Jacksonville, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. West Palm Beach, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 5 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Cleveland, OH. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Jacksonville, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. West Palm Beach, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues • Page 127


CALENDAR OF EVENTS MAY 12-17 Permanaent Makeup Course by Beau Institute. Mount Laurel, NJ. 888.763.2328.


MAY 18 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Philadelphia, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 19 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Philadelphia, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

A Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients by PCA Skin. Online Course. Addressing Adolescent Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. Alternate Therapies by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. An In-Depth Look at Melasma by PCA Skin. Online Course. Customizing Daily Care Regimens by PCA Skin. Online Course. Diminishing Deep Wrinkling by PCA Skin. Online Course. Evening Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course.

CORRECTION: On page 76 of the April 2014 edition in “Online Retailing” by Diane Buccola, the second sentence of the following text was mistakenly deleted: “Include a client shopping page on your company‘s website so clients can easily replenish their home care supplies. However, to protect your esthetician’s license and consumer safety, this should be a password protected page so that only those who have been properly evaluated will have access to the products.” On page 99 of the April 2014 edition in “Wellness Supplements” by Daniel Clary, naturopathic doctor Christine Schaffner was mistakenly identified as an M.D., rather than an N.D.

Exploring Intrinsic & Extrinsic Aging by PCA Skin. Online Course. HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST., 12 p.m. CST, 10 a.m. PST. Identifying & Treating Papulopustular Rosacea by PCA Skin. Online Course. Investigating Impaired Barrier Function by PCA Skin. Online Course. Laser and Light Therapy by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. Medical Esthetics by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. Product Formulations as a Whole by PCA Skin. Online Course. Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100.

Page 128 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2014


Scleroderma by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. Shedding Light on UV-induced Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. Simple Steps to a Booming Business by PCA Skin. Online Course. Targeting Adult Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. The Daily Care Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course.

National Esthetic Teacher Training Sponsored by NCEA

The Professional Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. Treating Acne in Skin of Color by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100.

TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2014 May 4-5 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2014 September 7-8 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2014 October 19-20 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

NCEA Certified Prep Class

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2015 March 1-2 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) Saturday, May 3, 2014 Arlington, TX • 1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress NCEA Certified Prep Class Saturday, May 3, 2014 Arlington, TX • 1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2015 April 26-27 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) Saturday, September 6, 2014 Long Beach, CA • 1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress NCEA Certified Prep Class Saturday, September 6, 2014 Long Beach, CA • 1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2015 September 20-21 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) Saturday, October 18, 2014 Philadelphia, PA • 1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress NCEA Certified Prep Class Saturday, October 18, 2014 Philadelphia, PA • 1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2015 October 25-26 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

May 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 129

advertisers’ index Page Number

Reader Service No.

110............. Aesthetics Unique/Reviva.......................................... 288 77............... Athena..................................................................... 162 116............. Beau Institute.......................................................... 167 95............... Bella Schneider Beauty ............................................ 180 70............... Bio 331 41............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... 140 6,79............ Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... 139 84............... Biomani................................................................... 276 75............... Bioslimming............................................................ 335 99............... 226 39............... Christina.................................................................. 107 101............. Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... 101 132............. Darphin................................................................... .159 20............... DermAware............................................................. 256 19............... DermaQuest........................................................... .261 51............... DermaSwiss............................................................. .245 9................. Dr. Grandel.............................................................. 109 85............... Dr. Jeff..................................................................... .248 91............... Edge Systems......................................................... .201 2-3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. 157 18................Enspri...................................................................... 318 131............. Equipro................................................................... 242 103............. Fallene Skin 305 89............... GlymedPlus............................................................. 303 115............. GrandeLASH-MD.................................................... 286 90............... Hale Cosmeceuticals................................................. 133 71............... 281 27............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... 278 34-35......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa.......... ...... 66............... 270 13............... Lady 119 33............... Le 294 11............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic .263 81............... 111 53............... PCA 110 45............... PFB 229 116............. PostQuam 177 107............. Premiere Show Group............................................... 194 65............... Rapidlash.................................................................. 224 49............... Rejuvi 149 32............... Rena 105 7................. 346 31............... Rhonda Allison.......................................................... 190 106............. Rubber Ducky 317 88............... 165 16-17......... Satin Smooth............................................................ 304 98............... Select Spa 253 44............... Sesha Skin Therapy................................................... 271 8................. SilcSkin..................................................................... 185 55............... Skin Care Consultants................................................ 230 15............... Sothys...................................................................... 306 5................. 116

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LNE & Spa - May 2014  

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