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LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

July 2013


The good news is, we will plant it for you. We have taken our commitment to the environment to a whole new level with our tree planting initiative, Forests for the Future. For every product purchased, we will plant a tree by joining forces with Trees for the Future. Visit for more information.

THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1958 Toll-Free 1-888-747-6342 | ENVI RON M ENTALLY R ESPON SI B LE P ROVI DER OF P R EM I U M SKI N C AR E Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card

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JULY 2 0 1 3

N U M BE R 7



Sub-Saharan Miracle 24 Product Differentials Across Borders28 The Allure of Machu Picchu 32 Face Time 36 Reform the Often Forgotten Parts During a Facial 40 International Beauty 43 Skin News 45

The Allure of Machu Picchu Inca-inspired facials page 32


90 93

Hot and Humid Beauty 107 Teaching and Training Abroad108 Summer Skin of Color Makeup 112 Exotic Nails 114 Enduring Beauty in Full Bloom 119 Image News 121

Exotic Nails

from around the world page 114

Thanda Spa page 67


Auricular Therapy 47 Magic and a Shaman48 LNE & Spa Best Awards 52 Traditional Chinese Medicine 58 Divine Alignment With Gemstones  64 Private Game Reserve Spa 67 The Sounds of Spa 70 Spa News 75

The Ancient Powers of Cardamom 97 Aligning the World?98 Exceeding the Expectations of Travelers 100 Organic & Wellness News 103

page 78

Poor Reception 77 Global Spa Operations78 Developing Your Career 82 Dealing With Disrespect 86 Technology Defined Skin Care Biz News

Private Game Reserve Spa

organic & wellness

Global Spa Operations



Exceeding the Expectations of Travelers page 100


From the Editor6 Spa of the Month: Cayenne Spa at Pepper Club Hotel, Cape Town, South Africa 10 Recap: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas, TX 22 Calendar of Events 124 Advertisers’ Index 130


courtesy of Camille Albane

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

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from the



Visit us in Vegas June 22-24 @ Booth 1031

HIS JULY, BE DIVINELY AND GLOBALLY inspired to expand your territories and increase the influence of your business with fresh ideas from the latest issue of LNE & Spa! Be transported to the spas and practices of faraway lands without the hassle of airports and packing this summer. Simply sit back, relax and take notes from our international edition as we travel across the globe to bring you the most innovative and interesting trends, treatments and therapies from around the world. More than ever before, spas today are making an effort to incorporate new ideas and concepts to stay on the cutting-edge to keep their clients intrigued. With the market expanding at such a rapid pace, continuing to evolve and maintaining an element of novelty is essential to client retention. Many spas are pushing the boundaries beyond traditional massages or salon services. When you take time off from your busy practice to travel, I encourage you to research and embrace the traditional customs, amazing local spas and unique services. Customs can vary drastically from one country to the next, and may involve a shaman, a blend of Traditional Chinese Medicine, gemstones, gong healing … you name it! You may also be interested in the spa operations practiced in another country, and how you can utilize aspects of their model in the management of your own business. Also included in the July edition are the LNE & Spa Awards for 2013, featuring the finest spas in our industry that exemplify true excellence. Congratulations to KurSpa of Canada, The Bathhouse at Calistoga Ranch of California, Si Spa of Florida, TriBeCa MedSpa of New York City and Vito Mazza Salon & Spa in New Jersey! Have a wonderful month of July! I hope that your professional life and business continue to flourish and serve as a wonderful representation of the skin care and spa industry. n —Denise R. Fuller,


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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 e-mail: Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand Editor in Chief Denise R. Fuller Art Director Sacha Smith Assistant Editor Amanda Winter Director of Sales Aché Fougere Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo Exhibitor Operations Manager Mayli Tenorio International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

Contributors Rhonda Allison Linda Bertaut Sherine Bichara Patti Biro Goldie Bonnell Ronel Corbin Stacey Graham Brenda K. Helps

Terry Herman Karen Hodges Camille Hoheb Lori Hutchinson Wendy Lewis Lake Louise Austine Mah Janet McCormick Christina Oldham Cristina Proano-Carrion

Serena Rogers Robert Sachs Pam Stellema David Suzuki Nadine Toriello Ivana Veljkovic, Ph.D. Anne C. Willis Amanda Winter Noreen Young

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #183 on reader service card

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

wanted: those seeking greatness

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Discover your unique potential and achieve your personal best. Become a PCA SKIN Certified Professional.

Greatness begins here.

Call PCA SKIN today at 877.PCA.PEEL [722.7335], visit or email

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Scan here to access a list of our upcoming classes.




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JUST LIKE THE SPA ITSELF, THE MENU IS SMALL BUT PACKED WITH UNIQUELY AFRICAN INSPIRED DELIGHTS. guests on the eighth floor. A wellness bar is also located on the upper level. Spa retail is provided on the eighth floor, and every inch is designed for maximum comfort and efficiency, from the locker rooms to the relaxation area. They have created the best of both worlds with this unique two level design. The winter months are the busy season, and the guest mix during this time is split evenly between locals and hotel guests. During the continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photos courtesy of Cayenne Spa at Pepper Club Hotel

W E A RY WO R L D T R AV E L E R S A N D residents of Cape Town, South Africa can escape the urban hustle and bustle in a tiny jewel of a spa just a few steps away from the active nightlife of Long Street. Located in the heart of Cape Town’s growing and prosperous city center, the spa is quietly tucked away on the seventh and eighth floors of the Pepper Club Luxury Hotel and Spa. Spa manager Devonica Brand describes Cayenne Spa as a “small wellness sanctuary.“ Designed by Klaus Neumann Design, MLB Architects of Cape Town, the spa was created to offer both travelers and locals a chance to relax and unwind. The unique design, featuring two levels, affords a quiet refuge for the four treatment rooms on the lower level (seventh floor), and spa and fitness amenities for hotel and spa

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spa of the month|cayenne spa at pepper club hotel

quote on wall by Audrey Hepburn

remainder of the year, the spa is supported 70 percent by locals and 30 percent by hotel guests. Open six days a week from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., the spa is a hub of activity for the hotel and neighborhood. The hotel and spa, opened in May of 2010, is a relative newcomer on the Cape Town spa scene. A big experience is packed into a relatively small space at slightly over 2,800 square feet. The spa manages to deliver an experience worthy of its grand location, facing the iconic Table Mountain—the most prominent feature of Cape Town. Great views from the pool deck, relaxation area and gym are just the icing on the cupcake at this urban retreat. My morning workout was enhanced by the sight of the twinkling lights of Cape Town, which transformed into a beautiful sunrise as I attempted to overcome jet lag on the treadmill. A small and cozy relaxation area was the perfect setting for my morning coffee after a visit to the sauna. In the descent from the beautiful views of the relaxation area to the treatment rooms, this quote

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by Audrey Hepburn is featured on the stairwell wall: “People even more than things, have to be restored, renewed, revived, reclaimed and redeemed.” Spa manager Devonica Brand shared the story behind selecting this quote as an intention, expressed as a desire that every guest entering the spa would immediately feel relaxed, knowing that they deserve to be well treated and restored. Every aspect of the spa visit is carefully orchestrated, not only to help soothe guests’ senses, but to address the physical, mental and spiritual aspects of achieving balance and harmony.

Small in size, rich in experience

The small staff, consisting of three therapists and the spa manager, brings a global perspective to the treatments, as they are recruited from locations across the globe. All therapists are dually licensed in massage as well as esthetics. The extensive training for the therapists focuses on building an intuitive sense of the guest’s needs, connecting with the individual’s energy level and continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

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PLEASE VISIT US AT THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS & SPA, LONG BEACH, CA, AT BOOTHS 129 AND 131 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #119 on reader service card

Visit our website:




Endorsed by:


1.800.471.0229 • LNEONLINE.COM 3929 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL 33134 USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664



SEPT 29 & 30, 2013 There is no better time than now to reinvent your business and the way you serve your clients. The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach, CA is the inspirational conference for spa and skin care professionals with the most informative educational sessions that encompass topics relevant to every sector of the industry. It is also the event where you can meet and network with many other like-minded professionals, and the place where you can find an exhibitors’ floor flooded with the best companies in the business showcasing the most cutting-edge products and equipment!



$75 when you register after 09/06/13

ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION INCLUDES: • All General Session Lectures and Demos • Medical facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track NEW • Salon/Spa Business Management Seminar • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Medical Spa Business Seminar • Image Seminar




• Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar

$50 when you register after 09/06/13

• AIA-Aesthetics International Association • Spa Business Lounge NEW • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Holistic & Wellness Village • Exhibit Hall flooded with hundreds of exhibitors

spa of the month|cayenne spa at pepper club hotel

delivering a truly personalized service focused on restoration. Exceeding expectations to ensure that every guest has a memorable experience is one of the guiding service principals of the spa. Brand draws from the inspiration of Napoleon Hill, an American author who was an early producer of works in the genre of personal success literature. Brand feels that an important principal of success in all walks of life and in all occupations is the willingness to go that “extra mile.”

or nuts of the marula tree, a beautiful tree that grows across South Africa. The resulting oil is rich in moisturizing and restorative qualities. Rooibos (pronounced “roy-boss”) is a bush whose needles or leaves are used for teas as well as medicinal purposes. In South Africa, you can do more than enjoy a cup of rooibos tea—you can have it in your spa treatments as well. The bush, which is chock full of antioxidants, only grows in the Western Cape section of South Africa.

African inspired treatments

Signature treatments

Just like the spa itself, the menu is small but packed with uniquely African inspired delights. It encompasses everything a traveler could desire, from body treatments to express manicures and pedicures. Featured products have an African story to tell. These include unique blends of marula oils and Ghana shea butter infused with healing African potato, aloe and rooibos.

Ever heard of an African potato? The Zulu word for this tuberous plant is inkomfe, commonly called the star flower. It has been used in African medicine and healing arts for centuries. Marula oil is created by pressing the kernels Page 16 •

One of the most popular and unique services at Cayenne Spa is the Intonga Amasatchi Stick Massage. A variety of wooden sticks are used in a ballet of skillful movements by the therapist. The result is a richly satisfying deep tissue massage. The philosophy of the treatment draws on the wisdom of ancient healing, using the natural properties of wood to draw out toxins, purify and release tension. Additionally, wood has a positive grounding effect on the individual. This 75-minute treatment is a special favorite of travelers. Having tried it myself, I can attest to its restorative benefits. continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

Dramatic Changes in Technology and Research

Satin Smooth® DermaRadiance developed with the most sophisticated

Satin Smooth® SmoothSculpt an innovative new method of skincare that

technology of mircodermabrasion. DermaRadiance provides a dual functioning feature for your clients' skin care. Pure Flower Grains help to exfoliate the skin. You can also flip a switch and begin using a non-crystal Diamond Tip either wet or dry. It’s that easy.

helps smooth, contour and tighten skin on all areas of the face and body. The system combines advanced aesthetic technology with a non-invasive approach to skin revitalization. SmoothSculpt respects the integrity of your skin and provides a simple approach to healthy youthful skin at every age. *Plastic Surgeon Recommended

Please visit us in Las Vegas IECSC Show Booth 1118A ©2013 Professional Products Division For more information about Satin Smooth® products, please visit 13SS143217

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A SPA OR WELLNESS TREATMENT IN AFRICA IS LIKELY TO INCLUDE SOME INGREDIENTS THAT ARE UNIQUE TO THE CONTINENT. Other popular treatments include the Cayenne Spa Body Wrap, a unique ritual that begins with a full body exfoliation in preparation for a body wrap and massage. Guests can select the type of wrap according to their needs, choosing from either an immune boosting or cellulite detox formulation, which each provide the guest with 120 minutes of tranquility! Treatments that utilize both hot and cold stones are as popular in Africa as they are in the U.S. Guests can select from stone manicures, pedicures and massage treatments. Facial services are popular as well, and are geared toward classic treatments.

In a hurry? No worries!

Time-strapped travelers and locals hoping to schedule a treatment can choose from a special express menu of options, ranging in duration from Page 18 •

10 to 30 minutes. Whether this is a lunch break spa visit or just a quick indulgence before a busy day of sightseeing, the treatments “open a window of relaxation” for the face and body. Options include a Hand Me Over 15-minute hand massage or a 20-minute Radiance Facial Treatment, designed to give skin a boost of freshness. Cayenne Spa also allows the guest to add these mini services to any longer scheduled service.

Men of the tribe

While most of the treatments at Cayenne Spa are gender neutral, men get special attention in the Male Indulgence Package, which includes a body and scalp massage combined with a facial and pedicure, all completely tailored to males. While South African men are just beginning to embrace the spa lifestyle, these treatments are a favorite among travelers.

Packages for couples

The couples’ treatment room at the Cayenne Spa is booked well in advance. Unique services include the two-hour “Parents-to Be” package, featuring couples’ treatments for expectant moms and dads. continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

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Can you say “ahhh” to indigenous ingredients?

A spa or wellness treatment in Africa is likely to include some ingredients that are unique to the continent. You may recognize an old favorite or two on this list as well! African black pepper is a less spicy version of common black pepper. It has been used in traditional medicine for its antioxidant properties, as it is rich in vitamin C and beta carotene. More than a food seasoning, it also makes an appearance in body wraps and skin treatments. African potato is a root, much like a turnip plant. Inedible as a vegetable, it has been used in traditional African medicine to balance the immune system and fight infections. It is used in spa treatments as an anti-inflammatory ingredient. Aloe vera is known all over the world for its benefits in treating sunburn as well as insect bites and other forms of dermatitis. Popular beyond the borders of the U.S., this succulent plant is used in many body treatments, and is a favorite of traditional African healers who use aloe juice to treat wounds and bug bites, as well as an internal “health tonic.” Cape Snowbush is a shrubby bush similar to the rosemary plant we know and love. In the spring, the shrub is blanketed with small white flowers, giving the impression it is covered in snow, hence the name “snow bush.” The history of the me-

dicinal use of Cape Snowbush dates back to 1667, when early settlers distilled it as an essential oil. It reportedly has mood enhancing and sedative powers, and is used in skin treatments and hair products, as well as a decongestant and a pain reliever. Kigella Africana extract is made from the flowers of the African sausage tree. The tree bears beautiful flowers and unusual looking fruits that look like sausages. If tsetse flies are bothering you or your skin needs hydration, this is the extract for you. Should you decide to plant a tree of your own, be warned that planting sites should be selected carefully, as the falling fruit can cause serious injury to people and damage vehicles parked under the trees. Marula oil is extracted from the nuts of the marula tree, and has been used for centuries as a skin moisturizer. Some tribal women reportedly used marula oil rather than water for cleansing. The oil has a lovely nutty scent and contains antioxidants and oleic acid, making it perfect for massage treatments. Neroli is derived from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, and is used as an essential oil in many spa treatments. Neroli is considered non-toxic and mild, and few people have a sensitivity to it. It is considered preferable to lavender for its relaxing effects, and has been used to treat insomnia. It makes for a delightful bath oil to enhance relaxation and reduce jet lag. Rooibos tea extract is known in South Africa for its soothing effect on the skin. It is anti-aging, anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory; it promotes healthy skin and relieves skin irritations such as acne and eczema. Rooibos is a very effective natural antioxidant, and contains a wide variety of minerals. Tamarind comes from a tree that produces a pod that resembles a peanut. Hiding inside this shell is a lovely sticky paste that can be mixed with other natural spa ingredients to create spa and beauty products. Its naturally high AHA content makes it an effective exfoliant. It is often used in face and body treatments to exfoliate, brighten and soften the skin. n

tamarind tree

Wrap it up

Whether one visits for a half hour or comes in for a full day of services, the Cayenne Spa is a tiny gem with truly exceptional treatments and service that guests will remember long after they have left South Africa. The Pepper Club Hotel and Spa is the first hotel in South Africa to have its very own beach club and restaurant on beautiful Camps Bay. After a visit to the spa, guests can hop across the Table Mountain Nature Reserve in time to watch an incredible sunset from the private deck of the Pepper Club on the beach. Those interested in a night on the town or sightseeing can top off their spa visit by having the Pepper Club’s concierge service arrange chauffeur-driven transportation with the hotel’s own Rolls Royce Phantom. No wonPage 20 •

der they were voted the best luxury hotel in South Africa by CNN in 2011! n Patti Biro is the founder and principal of Patti Biro and Associates, a consulting firm specializing in brand enrichment through creative special events, retail consulting and education in the spa and wellness industry. She is a frequent presenter on the national and international trade show circuit. Biro recently completed a Spa-fari in Africa and Dubai, where she visited unique spa venues. For more information, visit or email Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: Apiguide/

spa of the month|cayenne spa at pepper club hotel

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CONNECTING AND LEARNING ON MAY 5 AND MAY 6, THE AR­ lington Convention Center was packed with energetic spa, skin care and wellness professionals, coming together for The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas to learn from the best industry leaders and explore an exhibit floor packed with the latest product and equipment innovations on the market. Both days began for attendees with a special gift bag from sponsors PCA Skin® and HydroPeptide®, who each handed out premium products on one day of the General Session. The well-rounded educational curriculum of the two-day conference received great feedback from attendees. New speakers shared their

Convention Center lobby

busy registration area

DermaSwiss demonstration

WrinkleMD booth

Circadia by Dr. Pugliese demonstration

Maxi Lip Plumper booth

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expertise, and attendees had the chance to learn about the most cutting-edge, fast growing sectors of the spa industry. In addition to the General Session and returning seminars, three new features were introduced at the Dallas congress for the first time. At the Image Seminar, three speakers discussed different topics on the latest trends in makeup artistry. The Medical Facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track included two presentations targeted to professionals interested in learning about esthetic and wellness program management. The Spa Business Lounge, sponsored by InSPAration Management and The Spa Buzz, was an educational network-

ing program with discussions addressing topics focused on business and communication strategies. “I was excited to attend several classes at the Dallas International Congress of Esthetics and Spa,” says Karen Hodges, a licensed esthetician and owner of Morning Glory Nails & Skin Therapy, Grapevine, TX. “And I always love browsing the trade show floor looking for the latest trends in products and services.” “I have been coming to Arlington for the convention for a few years now, and every year I take new classes and love learning from so many industry leaders,” shares Eunice Williams of My Retreat Day Spa in Pearland, TX. “The congress always gives me fresh perspectives on how to run my business.”


Éminence Organic Skin Care gift bags

Will Strunk, congress host

GlyMed Plus

PCA Skin booth

Bio France Lab booth

Bella Schneider Beauty

congress floor

Clarisonic booth

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

On the exhibition floor, attendees appreciated the wide variety of companies and vendors were pleased with business. “What an amazing show!” Our sales went through the roof and the energy on the floor was vibrant,” raved Franck Lutz, sales manager of Equipro. The positive energy of the show extended beyond the Convention Center and into the night on Sunday, where attendees and vendors took the opportunity to enjoy a fun and relaxed barbecue party at the Sheraton Arlington Hotel, hosted by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines. Delicious authentic Texan barbecue and live band music provided a cheerful and upbeat setting for networking. More congress attendees came to the popular annual barbecue than ever before, making it an even greater platform to meet and mingle with their professional peers.

Pino Natural Spa Therapy booth

Sonya Dakar booth


Thank you to all of our amazing attendees, vendors and sponsors for being a part of The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas. We will see you again next year in Dallas on May 4 and May 5, 2014! n Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines cosponsor four International Congress of Esthetics and Spa educational conferences/trade shows annually in Miami Beach, FL, Dallas, TX, Long Beach, CA and Philadelphia, PA. Dates for remaining 2013 conferences: Long Beach, CA, September 29-30; Philadelphia, PA, October 27-28. Dates for 2014 conferences: Miami Beach,

FarmHouse Fresh booth

jane iredale booth

RA For Men

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

HydroPeptide booth

Light-Away booth

FL, April 6-7; Dallas, TX, May 4-5; Long Beach, CA September 7-8; Philadelphia, PA, October 19-20. Amanda Winter is the assistant editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Email her at FOLLOW THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA ON: TM

PFB Vanish

Methode Physiodermie booth

Bamboo-fusion booth

Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts booth

Act 5 Cosmetics booth

Bio-Therapeutic booth • Page 23


sub-saharan miracle

by Sherine Bichara

A remarkable resource The baobab tree provides shelter, water, food and medicinal remedies for humans. People have used the tree’s hollow stems for centuries for various purposes, including housing, storage and even shops. They use the clefts of the large branches to collect rainwater, and rely on this valuable source of water during the drought season. The pollen can be used as glue; the seeds are rich in protein, calcium, oil and phosphates. They can be roasted and ground like coffee beans.

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Recent studies in Europe have revealed a multitude of skin benefits of baobab. Leaf and bark extracts tighten and tone skin, while oil from the seeds moisturizes and encourages skin cell regeneration with vitamins A, D and E. Leaves are rich in vitamin C, sugars, potassium tartrate and calcium; they are cooked as a vegetable or dried and crushed for later use. The sprout of a young baobab tree can be eaten like asparagus; young leaves have high calcium content and can be eaten like spinach; the trunk is fibrous and can be woven into rope mats and paper; beer and tea can be made from the bark. Wild animals eat the fallen leaves, and fresh leaves are said to be good fodder for domestic animals; wild animals and cattle eat the fallen flowers.

Restorative properties Baobab is a rich source of antioxidants and essential fatty acids (such as linoleic acid) that may help improve the skin. Recent studies in Europe have revealed a multitude of skin benefits of bao-

helps improve skin firmness and strength by boosting the elastic quality of the skin, diminishes the look of facial lines, evens out skin tone, and refreshes and hydrates the skin. Seek out products formulated with baobab to enrich your treatments with this Sub-Saharan miracle. n

Sherine Bichara, cosmetic chemist and founder of L’Alchimiste, graduated from the Institut de Parfum, Aroma and Cosmetics in Montpellier, France. Her massage, bath and skin care products are all natural with organic extracts and other nutrient-enriched, anti-aging ingredients. Bichara is passionate about developing luxurious products that deliver results. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: Pierre-Yves Babelon/

BAOBAB TREES GROW IN SOUTH Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Mozam­bique and other tropical African countries where suitable habitat occurs. Carbon dating has been used to estimate the age of the oldest baobab trees. While most typically live for about five centuries, some have existed for 5,000 years. These massive trees can reach heights of 65 feet (20m) and trunks can stretch as long as 39 feet (12m) in diameter. The baobab tree, also known as the “tree of life,” and “the monkey bread tree,” is steeped in mystique and legend. Its massive trunk gives rise to thick tapering branches resembling a root system, and many indigenous people believe that the baobab tree grows upside-down because God planted it that way. In Africa, the baobab plays a significant role in the circle of life. Elephants, monkeys and baboons depend on its fruit (the vitamin C content of one fruit equals that of four oranges); bats pollinate them by colliding with flowers while chasing insects; and bush babies also spread the pollen.

bab. Leaf and bark extracts tighten and tone skin, while oil from the seeds moisturizes and encourages skin cell regeneration with vitamins A, D and E. Six studies carried out in the laboratory showed that doses between 400 and 800 mg/kg determine a marked anti-inflammatory effect. Their ability to reduce inflammation may be attributed to the presence of sterols, saponins and triterpenes in the aqueous extract. Clinical research has found that baobab fruit and oil combats skin aging,

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Endorsed by:


1.800.471.0229 • LNEONLINE.COM 3929 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL 33134 USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664



OCT 27 & 28, 2013 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia is about working together and sharing our knowledge, helping one another to reach new levels of success. The two-day event offers the unique opportunity to attend cutting-edge career-boosting lectures and demonstrations, interact with our platform of associations, mingle with your peers at networking events and walk an exhibit floor flooded with hundreds of the best new and well established companies showcasing the latest trends and products!



$75 when you register after 10/04/13

ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION INCLUDES: • All General Session Lectures and Demos • Medical Facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track NEW • Salon/Spa Business Management Seminar • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Medical Spa Business Seminar • Image Seminar




• Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar

$50 when you register after 10/04/13

• AIA-Aesthetics International Association • Spa Business Lounge NEW • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Holistic & Wellness Village • Exhibit Hall flooded with hundreds of exhibitors



by Ivana Veljkovic, Ph.D

across borders

GLOBAL TRADE HAS INCREASED steadily over the decades, and the Internet and social media have made us feel increasingly closer to people all over the world. Yet there are still real challenges and obstacles to successfully selling products across a global marketplace. With each country or group of countries answering to their own governing bodies, and each of these bodies requiring differing labeling, ingredient bans and restrictions, global trade can be a complicated proposition. Identifying the government bodies that dictate the requirements for each of the major players in global trade and highlighting some of their key regulatory differences can help lend clarity to this task. There is infinite minutia when it comes to successfully satisfying all the various global requirements. Depending on the size and scope of the market you wish to enter, it may be wise to consider consulting with a regulatory professional for assistance.

Who’s who in the global marketplace

The global trade arena is a patchwork made up of many individual nations and conglomerates that includes several countries. Some of the major players are the United States (US), the European

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Union (EU), the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), Canada, Japan and China. Each of these groups certainly has the best interests of their peoples top-of-mind when making regulations, although cultural and political motivations can unfortunately play a role in particular rulings. There are some efforts to harmonize the regulations, although full global harmonization is unlikely in the foreseeable future. Some countries do engage in talks with one another in an effort to bring regulations in line; the US has participated in talks with Canada, Japan and the EU. This effort toward international harmonization is known as the International Cooperation on Cosmetic Regulation (ICCR). The fifth meeting of the ICCR was held in July 2012, and focused primarily on “… ways to remove regulatory obstacles among regions, while maintaining the highest level of consumer protection.” There is much compromise still necessary if we are to change long-standing views and beliefs that guide many countries’ laws, but it is promising that major players in global cosmetics and cosmeceutical trade are opening a dialogue.

The governing bodies

The discussion of the intricacies surrounding global cosmetic regulations could be the topic of an entire book. For the purposes of this arLes Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: ra2studio /

ticle, the discussion has been dramatically shortened. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is the federal agency that issues rules and guidance documents in order to implement the laws enacted by Congress. The FDA provides the structure and definitions around the safe and appropriate manufacture and sale of cosmetics, over-the-counter (OTC) drugs and drug products. They set the rules around allowable and banned ingredients, and requirements for labeling to ensure full disclosure and consumer safety. In the EU, these types of rulings and regulations come out of the European Commission. This is a large institution, made up of 27 commissioners from a variety of EU member countries. This commission oversees a diverse group of industries, including consumer health and safety. This is where the regulation of cosmetics and drugs (as well as food) falls. In the EU, topical products fall into only two categories: drugs and cosmetics. They all have different types of requirements, and each drug has its own set of labeling rules. They also provide a directive on banned ingredients, colors and fragrances, and the ways in which cosmetic products must be labeled. Their requirements are different enough from those in the US that entirely different packaging and July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

labels are typically necessary for products sold in both the EU and the US. Additionally, some formulations that satisfy all FDA requirements may not be eligible to be sold in the EU due to potential differences in opinion about included ingredients. Conversely, there are ingredients that require OTC drug labeling in the US (e.g., sunscreen products) that are only considered cosmetics in the EU. These products, packaged for sale in the EU, could not be sold in the US; there are also some sunscreen ingredients approved for use in the EU that have yet to be approved by the FDA, therefore making them ineligible for sale in the US. Established in 1967, ASEAN was initially made up of Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Brunei. In recent decades it has grown to include Cambodia, Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam (this group is referred to as CMLV). The ASEAN definition of cosmetic products is the same as the EU Directive. In these member countries, as in the EU, there are two categories—pharmaceuticals and cosmetics— each of which is governed by a different set of regulations and requirements. Canada’s skin care industry is governed by Health Canada, which defines itself as “the continues

Some formulations that satisfy all FDA requirements may not be eligible to be sold in the EU due to potential differences in opinion about included ingredients. • Page 29

skin|product differentials across borders

The good, the bad and the ugly

Each of these organizations provides a list of ingredients that are either restricted (under a certain percentage, only in combination with certain other ingredients or available only by prescription), banned altogether or required to be listed Page 30 •

Global harmonization

Although it is unlikely that there will be a total global harmonization of regulations in the foreseeable future, continuing talks amongst the groups who are major players will keep the dialogue open. Global trade is most definitely part and parcel of our future marketplace, so being aware of changes in international regulations can help even small companies successfully navigate international selling. n

Ivana Veljkovic, Ph.D., works in product development and clinical trials for PCA Skin®. She has previously worked as a research scientist specializing in the synthesis and purification of organic compounds. She has worked directly with physicians, nurses and estheticians, educating them on skin physiology, ingredients and proper treatments for specific skin conditions. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: Graphic design/

Oftentimes it is stated that a particular ingredient is banned in a certain country, when really it may only be used in pharmaceuticals.

federal department responsible for helping the people of Canada maintain and improve their health.” Their regulations identify three categories: cosmetics, natural health products and drugs. These three categories are regulated differently and have individual requirements for labeling and sale. Drug products require what is called a DIN (drug identification number). In the past, Canada’s rulemaking was similar to the US, although more recently Canada has leaned in favor of following the EU Directive more closely. In Japan, cosmetics are regulated by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare. Regulations are guided by the Pharmaceutical Affairs Law that was established in 1960. They provide guidance on labeling, as well as identifying restricted ingredients and accepted UV filters and preservatives. Although they formerly based their system on heavy pre-market testing for safety and efficacy, in 2001 they adopted a system similar to the US and EU, where the burden of ensuring a product is safe prior to sale and the responsibility to monitor this once on the market is placed on the manufacturers rather than the government. One must still closely follow all required labeling rules, as well as honor the restrictions on ingredients. As the second largest economy in the world, China represents a country with great involvement in global trade. The regulation of cosmetic products in China falls on the State Food and Drug Administration (SFDA). This regulatory body closely mirrors that of the US FDA.

or called out in specific ways on a product label. The intricacies of these lists and their meanings can lead to confusion over ingredient safety. Oftentimes it is stated that a particular ingredient is banned in a certain country, when really it may only be used in pharmaceuticals. A country or group of countries may not be stating that a particular ingredient is in any way unsafe, but rather that it requires a prescription and guidance by a professional before being used. These differences in ingredient categorization can be the most daunting aspect of selling globally. It is difficult to outline the reasoning behind many of the “hot lists” of ingredients. Cultural differences and political climate often play a role, in addition to science. Some bans and restrictions make perfect sense, but others seem to be motivated by agendas other than merely science and consumer safety. Nonetheless, for successful introduction into the global marketplace, one must implement and follow all relevant regulations in the countries where they are sold.



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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

facial: Ersler Dmitryt/;background: Galyna Andrushko/


machu picchu Inca inspired facial THE ALLURE OF

MACHU PICCHU, THE ANCIENT INCAN CITADEL, IS A sight of mountain grandeur and spectacular beauty for all to experience. The mystical and magical pull lends wisdom to those who have the courage to take on the trek to the top. All others who want to be inspired from afar can incorporate elements of the journey into their spa services.

Machu Picchu Facial

60 minutes This treatment increases blood circulation, eliminates impurities, exfoliates, hydrates the skin and ultimately restores the guest. It is based on the ancient knowledge of Andean women who regarded natural, native ingredients as the most effective tools to keep their skin hydrated, nourished and invigorated. ANDEAN INGREDIENTS Quinoa: This ancient grain, native to the Andes, is known as the “gold of the Incas.” Quinoa contains all the essential amino acids, making it a complete protein. It is also loaded with minerals such as calcium, magnesium, manganese and phosphorus. For this treatment, quinoa flour is used to assist in the repair, protection and conditioning of the skin. Avocado oil: Packed with vitamins A, C and E, amino acids and linoenic acid, this all purpose oil is noncomedogenic and blends easily into the skin. Its healing qualities regenerate skin that has been damaged, soothe eczema and promote the regeneration of scarred skin. *Use only cold-pressed oil. Andean therapeutic herbs: Lemongrass, chamomile, spearmint and calendula. These herbs evoke a warming, comforting experience. They are known for their anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory properties, and are very effective at reducing inflammation and speeding tissue regeneration. Palo Santo essential oil: Loosely translated, Palo Santo means holy wood. This very calming and grounding essential oil is effective for stressed and mature skins. Palo Santo is a cousin of frankincense oil, with similar aromas and applications.

Unrefined whole cane sugar (also known as rapadura): This sugar is rich in essential minerals that nourish and feed the skin; these elements are also absorbed through the skin, where the nourishing properties bring even deeper benefit. Description/benefits: This cleansing and relaxing facial is performed with Andean ingredients that nourish the skin and assist the removal of waste material from the skin. It also provides thorough exfoliation, making the skin velvety soft. The herbs will balance, revitalize and leave the skin hydrated, protected and relaxed. ROOM SET UP • Head draping for hair • 1 large bowl filled with warm water • Small towels for compresses • Eye rest bag • 2 rubber mask bowls PRODUCTS USED • Natural cleansing lotion • Whole sugar exfoliating mixture: In a small rubber bowl, mix 1 tsp unrefined whole sugar mixed with 1 tsp avocado oil • Nourishing facial oil: 2 tbs avocado oil mixed with 2 drops of lavender essential oil and 1 drop Palo Santo essential oil • Rose hydrosol • Quinoa mask: In a small rubber bowl, mix together 1 tsp quinoa flour, 2 tsp avocado oil, 2 tsp rose hydrosol and 1 drop Palo Santo essential oil • A moisturizing gel • A moisturizing lotion • Lavender essential oil • Herbal compresses: Add 1 tea bag each of the following herbal teas: lemongrass, chamomile, spearmint and calendula with 5 drops of essential oils to a bowl or sink of warm water. continues

by Cristina Proano-Carrion

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 33


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Perform a deep cleanse with the whole sugar exfoliating mixture. Apply it all over the face and décolleté, using a “press and release” pumping action for at least one minute.

PROCEDURE 1. Do a consultation. 2. Give the client a gentle scalp massage to establish contact. 3. Cover hair with head wrap and wash hands. 4. Remove makeup with a natural cleansing lotion. 5. Do a skin analysis. 6. Submerge towels in a large bowl of warm herbal water. Remove towel, squeeze out excess liquid and press to the face 5 times. 7. Perform a deep cleanse with the whole sugar exfoliating mixture. Apply it all over the face and décolleté using a “press and release” pumping action for at least one minute. 8. Remove the whole sugar mixture with compress cloth. 9. Wipe face with damp cotton pads saturated with aromatic water in crock-pot. 10. Do extractions. 11. Dispense 2 sprays of rose hydrosol into palm of hand and “press and release” to tone the skin. 12. Perform a facial massage (including décolletage, shoulders and back of neck) using 1 1/2 tbs of the avocado oil mixture. 13. Apply quinoa mask to face and neck; let it sit for 10 minutes. 14. Add 1 drop lavender essential oil to a dry compress, and cover your client’s eyes. Cover the compress with an eye rest pillow. 15. Remove mask with a warm, damp cotton compress cloth. 16. Spray rose hydrosol into hands and press into skin. 17. Apply 1/4 pump of a nourishing eye gel around the eye area. 18. Apply moisturizer. 19. Remove head wrap and finish treatment with a brief scalp massage. n Cristina Proano-Carrion has 14 years of experience developing formulas for aromatherapy products for the health, spa and fitness industries. She is the owner and formulator of Aromandina, a complete line of essential oils and aromatherapy products. ProanoCarrion has been a featured speaker at workshops and seminars in North and South America, and has shared her expertise on television and radio.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #166 on reader service card

Page 34 •

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

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FOR OVER 20 YEARS, I HAVE BEEN involved in various aspects of the spa industry. I have experienced many treatments by highly skilled and trained professionals; some have been amazing, incredible experiences ... and a few have not been so stellar. What happens when a guest is bruised or injured by the treatment? Sometimes, they feel that fines should be issued or licenses revoked. We all know that unfortunate incidents occasionally happen, and sometimes it may even be out of the therapist’s control. In a couple of my experiences, however, my injuries may have been superficial, but they remain visible to this day. The incidents described in this article are my own true stories. For each of the three experiences, I asked a licensed esthetician to provide their professional input. I share my stories to serve as a learning tool to help you properly dialogue with a client when you are handling an unfortunate situation.

In the mid-1990s, I went to a day spa for a facial. The esthetician seemed to know what she was doing, but I ended up with a broken blood vessel on my left cheekbone. After noticing the mark when I returned home, I contacted the spa manager about it. They were disinterested in my issue, and did not offer any additional assistance or follow-up. The mark was nearly a quarter inch long, clearly visible and squared as if an implement with straight edges had been used on my face (although I don’t recall anything except a small spatula being used to apply the mask). A few years later, I went to see a derma­tologist for an unrelated issue. The doctor noticed the mark and asked me what had happened. After explaining how the damage occurred, the doctor confirmed the mark was due to a broken blood vessel, and advised me that laser surgery would be required to eliminate it. Page 36 •

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: wavebreakmedia/

Face story #1


Julie Ann Van Ameyde, licensed esthetician, spa owner Business: SpaTech Marketing LLC Business Location: Michigan Licensing state: Michigan I would have asked the guest to visit us immediately so we could view the area in question. I would have also compensated the guest for their time with a complimentary service. After seeing the area in question, we would also ask the client to see our dermatologist for after care if necessary, and consult the insurance company immediately. Any spa who does not take a client issue such as this seriously puts their business and reputation at risk. As a spa-goer I would have not waited for a visit to the dermatologist. I would immediately have gone for a diagnosis. Not going immediately gives you zero leverage to negotiate with the spa for compensation. Although I have never seen broken capillaries caused by a facial, I can tell you I have seen them caused by some sort of facial trauma where there is bruising, genetics, rosacea, menopause and high blood pressure. Also, such things as sun exposure, tanning, constant blowing of nose, alcohol and smoking will increase your risks of broken capillaries. Many times, broken capillaries will heal themselves after a few weeks; others will require a laser to fix the problem. In order for someone to cause broken capillaries during a facial, there must be some type of facial trauma, or a client who is very prone to broken capillaries. Based on the description here, it does not appear there was facial trauma but rather some other underlying issue that really caused the broken capillaries. During the initial consultation prior to performing a treatment, if a client tells me—or if I can see during initial inspection that they are prone to rosacea or broken capillaries—I will either not perform a facial on them and direct them to a dermatologist or I will perform a sensitive skin facial. During that facial limit the use of steam, implements, extractions and massage.

Face story #2

After going to another fancy day spa to review a skin care line in the early 2000s, it became clear to me that the owner, an esthetician, was quite interested in impressing me with her “abilities.” It took her some three hours to give me a facial—and with less than stellar results. For one thing, she insisted on using a lancet on me to remove what she adamantly insisted were blackheads. I tried telling her I did not have any, but she would not listen. She sliced into my lip area, and also clipped my thumb. Not only was there bleeding, but the lancet hurt. She was oblivious to my discomfort. After lodging a formal complaint with the Cook County Regulatory Board, I learned that lancets are deemed medical devices—and are prohibited for cosmetic use! July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Also, the owner was supposed to use one line of product and only that line, but she decided to use products from another. She ended up getting product in my eye, which caused severe irritation. As I explained to her the discomfort I was going through and asked her to remove the product, she went into a state of confusion. She said that she had no means of rinsing the product from my eye. She left the room to find water and additional toweling. I remained on the table groping for both my glasses and something to remove the product from my eye. By the time the owner got back to the room, I had sufficiently removed the product. She was not the least bit concerned about my discomfort and assured me that nothing like this had ever happened before. She then wanted to give me a chemical peel, which I politely yet firmly declined. After I got home, I noticed broken capillaries from her aggressive facial manipulation, and there were two small areas of scarring from the lancet cuts. I ended up having to visit a dermatologist regarding this matter. Mary Granger, licensed esthetician instructor Business: RD Management Business Location: Illinois Licensing state: Illinois The saying ‘Do no harm’ does not just apply to doctors. As estheticians, we are here to help facilitate the healing and regeneration of the skin. There is a fine line between helping and hurting that sometimes gets blurred. Sure we want to give our client ‘instant results,’ but we have to make sure we do not compromise the integrity of the skin. This is why FDA and state regulatory boards set guidelines for what an esthetician can and cannot do on a client. These regulations include how strong of a chemical exfoliant an esthetician can apply on the skin without the supervision of a doctor, what ingredients are safe to put around the eye area and the regulated use of lancets on the skin. This is a clear case of an esthetician not properly practicing within their scope of practice set by their state board. Very few states allow the use of lancets by estheticians because they are often misused and abused. Lancets are medical devices and need to be treated with care and respect. When lancets are not used properly, more damage will be done to the skin than if gentle manual extractions were utilized instead. The esthetician did not have the knowledge, skill set or legal guidelines to perform extractions using a lancet, and thus the client incurred damage to her skin that required medical attention. Once the situation was brought to the attention of the spa owner, it was her duty to consult with the client immediately, check the severity of the situation, follow up the next day to see how the client’s skin was feeling, and offer to pay for any medical expenses that were incurred due to the service. These medical expenses would have been covered by the spa’s malpractice insurance, and would not have been any trouble for the spa to cover. continues • Page 37

skin|face time

As a professional I believe the consultation with the client prior to the service must be very thorough. Spending time discussing expectations, concerns, results and skin conditions is a must. Subsequently, the esthetician at fault needs to be retrained by the owner of the facility on the state rules and regulations that govern their scope of practice to ensure the safety and well-being of future clients. Infractions of this nature not only put the license of the esthetician in jeopardy, it puts the facility’s license at risk as well.

Face story #3

About five years ago, I scheduled an oxygen facial at a facility that was not a medical spa. Even though it was not a medical spa, the esthetician kept referring to the treatment as something one would get at a medical spa; this issue would later be raised by me as being misleading and incorrect. After the lead esthetician inspected my face and asked me some cursory questions, I told her about my damaged cheek areas, even pointing them out. I also emphasized that I had very sensitive skin. Of course, an experienced esthetician would be able to discern these facts, provided they were listening and paying attention to what the client was telling them. During the cleansing and preparatory stage, I was given an overly aggressive facial manipulation, and the oxygen device nozzle was held too close to my skin. Once I returned home, I noticed that I had more broken capillaries on my cheeks and an imprint of the air flow from the nozzle on my left cheek. I tried calling the spa manager on several occasions, and each time I was advised that they were out of the office; I even followed up with an email. Eventually, I was contacted and I reiterated the situation. I was extended an opportunity to return for another facial, and they explained to me that this time the esthetician would use a different product line to calm my irritated skin. She was also going to thoroughly inspect my skin before proceeding to see the extent of the irritation and damage. The second facial, although enjoyable, did not eliminate the irritation or damage. I continued trying to communicate with the spa manager, and even sent him photos of the damages on my cheeks; in turn, he sent them to the skin care company. I had also previously contacted the company, who used the equipment and products in their medical spa. They spoke with their “medical” esthetician; she maintained that they had never had any complaints about skin irritation or damage as a result of this type of facial. Nearly two years prior to this oxygen facial, I had an oxygen facial at another Chicago spa, and didn’t experience any irritation, damage or negative Page 38 •

results, either from the equipment or the products used, which were from a different line than my previous spa experience. Fabienne Lindholm, licensed esthetician, executive director of education and company owner Businesses: BABOR Cosmetics, Beauty Ateliers Business location: Illinois Licensing state: Illinois As a professional, I believe the consultation with the client prior to the service must be very thorough. Spending time discussing expectations, concerns, results and skin conditions is a must. It seems that in this situation, the esthetician perhaps was not actively listening. She could have paid more attention to the clues the client was offering, and asked more questions to determine if this treatment was the right service at this time. Defining and choosing a treatment is also a step that both the client and esthetician should be involved in, and if the service the client booked is not the perfect treatment for her, we as professionals must explain and recommend what might be more appropriate. It is a decision that needs to be made together. As for the way management handled the situation, I think it was ok but too late. Situations like that must be handled on the spot, face to face, voice to voice. This is where management must have procedures that empower everyone in the businessplace to take care of an issue and be able to make decisions to resolve a situation now, and not let it linger. The client should never have to call back to see what the status is. The spa should be in constant contact with the guest until the issue is resolved. In conclusion, I have not returned to any of the spas discussed in these stories. Additionally, whenever I am approached by anyone for recommendations on area spas and treatments, I share my experiences and recommend other places to invest their treatment money. n Terry Herman is a recognized expert in the spa industry. As a writer and blogger, she covers business, management, operations, customer care, treatments and trends. Herman is also a management consultant and motivational speaker. She serves as group manager for The Spa Buzz LinkedIn group, and is a member of the EXPERIENCE | PREMCHIT Journeys in Retreat to Wellness advisory board. Herman can be reached via email at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

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This presents a unique opportunity for esthetic professionals to extend their knowledge and treatments beyond just the face and neck, providing clients a much-needed solution and adding value in the treatment room.

Bringing attention to exposed areas

Skin is the largest organ of the body, covering the entire skeletal system. With that in mind, think about all of the opportunities UV rays and environmental elements have to do potential damage. The décolleté and back of the hands, for instance, are among some of the first areas on the body to reveal the signs of aging. Why? They are constantly exposed, and the skin is typically thinner, making it more vulnerable to damage.

by Rhonda Allison Page 40 •

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: Svetlana Fedoseyeva/

THE IDEA OF WHOLE BODY HEALTH IS NOTHING NEW, but type those three words into an online search and the results yield pages upon pages of companies, products, news articles, blogs and health groups dedicated to this issue. Why? Consumers are more tuned in than ever before to the idea that whole body wellness is a lifestyle. What they eat and do impacts not only how they feel, but how they look, and now many are focused on achieving healthy, youthful, glowing skin the whole body over. This raises the question: As professionals who work in the industry of skin care, are we missing a big portion of it? Savvy consumers are seeking solutions for correcting skin damage or signs of aging on areas of the body that are often forgotten—décolleté, hands, arms and even the feet.

skin Hands are vulnerable to damaging elements with nearly every activity—even driving short distances or walking from the office to the car. For women, the décolleté is another commonly exposed area, as most clothing does not fully cover it. Particularly for those who sunbathe or previously spent too much time in the sun, chances are their décolleté reveals more signs of aging than other areas of the body because it is often subject to the most direct sunlight. Skin care professionals must begin to think beyond the face and neck when working with clients, for the simple fact that exposed skin—no matter where it is on the body—is susceptible to extreme photo damage. Bringing attention to the exposed areas of the body can easily be tied into the facial program, and provide a way to achieve whole body skin health and create happy, grateful clients.

In the treatment room

So how do you talk to clients about these services? There are a number of opportunities for a conversation to happen organically. For instance, conversations might start during the initial skin assessment by asking clients if they have any other areas of concern, such as the hands or décolleté. Alternatively, during a facial you might mention that you’ve created new mini treatments to help clients achieve youthful, rejuvenated skin all over. Treatments need not take long. In fact, they can be as simple and effective as quick add-ons during a facial. For example, the hands may be treated while the client is wearing a facial mask. This may include a brightening granular scrub to soften dead skin cells, followed by an application of a 20% L-lactic acid solution, at which point the hands may be wrapped in cellophane for five minutes. Following the acid treatment, apply an enriched hand cream that has tissue-softening ingredients such as shea butter and monk pepper that penetrate deep into skin so it remains for hours. Finish with an SPF 30 to cocoon the skin, keeping it protected throughout the day. This quick treatment will leave the skin feeling silky soft, firm and smooth. For the décolleté, cleanse the area with an enzymatic lactic acid wash enhanced with a granular scrub. Rinse and follow with an AHA. Leave this on for three to five minutes. Enhance the exfoliation with a malic and tartaric based peeling agent. Let it remain on the skin, but be sure to watch the skin closely during this step. Finish with a healing, nourishing topical and protection using a physical block like zinc. This treatment leaves the skin firmed, toned and rejuvenated. Though not sun damage related, many people suffer from keratosis pilaris, particularly on the arms, and oftentimes it is something they struggle with for years. The good news is that it can be treated with special peel solutions that are safe for the body. An active formula that contains L-lactic, salicylic and retinol can easily be applied while performing the facial treatment. Massage this into the skin wherever the kertosis pilaris is an issue, and leave it on to stimulate cell turnover. Send clients home with the treatment on the skin, but be sure to apply an SPF of 30 and remind them not to expose the skin to the sun. If July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

they are wearing a long-sleeved shirt, then the SPF is not necessary. The formula will just remain on the skin until they shower.

At home, between treatments

Home care will play a significant role in rejuvenating the body between treatments as well. Just as you provide clients with home care regimens as part of a rejuvenation program for the face, you can do the same for the body. In fact, this is a necessary step to help achieve and maintain results. A good home-care regimen should focus on: • Exfoliating and stimulating: Physical and acid/enzyme exfoliators will pave the way for other beneficial ingredients to penetrate skin cells. • Increasing circulation: An energizing formula containing ingredients like peptides, goji berry and coffee extracts will help retexture and oxygenate the skin. • Strengthening and building: Cosmeceuticals like epidermal growth factors, peptides, botanical phytochemicals, oleic and linoleic acids, retinols and vitamins will help repair skin tissue, hydrate, tone, renew and reform skin. • Protecting: Skin protection is a must. Use a natural physical block like zinc oxide with an SPF of 30 to limit exposure to damaging free radicals and UV rays. At the very least, talk to clients about the importance of protecting these forgotten areas. You might even consider adding a travel size SPF 30 product to your retail accessories. There are also a number of fashionable gloves made from lighter material that are created specifically to keep hands shielded from the sun while driving.

Exposing clients to body treatments

One challenge that may present itself is shifting the mindset of clients. Many have been allured by the promising results of pricey department store brands. These are often less active preparations that don’t produce real results. It’s important to talk to clients about the significance of having a program specifically guided by a professional that is customized for their needs. Rather than trying to sell clients on the idea of professional body care, educate them on its key differences from consumer products. You might provide information on specific ingredients and how each works, or tips for using products to ensure they are most effective and last longer. For instance, a multi-acid formula will work well as an elbow, knee and heel softener, while a skinbuilding formula can serve as a firming neck and throat cream. A peptide-infused spray will help detoxify and tone the thighs. Much like a corrective facial, when actively treating these forgotten areas on the body, you work beyond the surface to reduce course texture, diminish age spots and hyperpigmentation and help maintain healthier, more youthful looking skin. Treatments may also be adjusted and customized to address nearly any skin type or issue. This allows you to provide solutions to sun-damaged, photo-aged or sagging skin, as well as the appearance of cellulite. continues • Page 41

skin|reform the often forgotten parts during a facial


Rhonda Allison is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison® and RAW Skin Care for Men. She is an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of experience in esthetics. Allison is a pioneer in the skin care industry. Learn more at and

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #276 on reader service card

Page 42 •

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: Hacohob/

For these reasons, clients are typically receptive to corrective body treatments and the guidance of a professional as an alternative to pricey department store formulas or surgical procedures. As a bonus, integrating body treatments into the facial also deepens the relaxation and soothing effect. Trust me, your clients will thank you. n

by Wendy Lewis


international beauty

growth data for the beauty industry THE CONVERGENCE OF GLOBAL beauty trends continues, with Asia holding its position as the leader in innovation, and Latin America controlling the growing men’s grooming market. Water is the new specialized ingredient, nail polish takes on lipstick, and handheld gadgets rule the world! Let’s take a look at skin care and treatment mega trends that are consistently gaining traction.

Water from the source The thirst for hydrated skin reflects the Western world’s love of uniquely sourced water. According to Mintel Beauty & Personal Care, 66 percent of all new skin care products that launched globally in 2012 had a moisturizing or hydrating benefit. Furthermore, water as a source in skin care has become important. More and more products boast the inclusion of water from specific oceans, lagoons, seas, glaciers, spring or space. Mintel cites the growing number of skin care products with specialized sources of water.

photo: Photobac/

Nail polish is the new lipstick Boosted by the global nail art trend, nail color may overcome lipstick as the go-to product for a reasonably priced beauty pick-me-up. “Topping global growth for the second consecutive year, nail polish is expected to continue to be the best performer, as consumers look to enjoy July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

a bit of luxury in their lives,” says Nicole Tyrimou, analyst in beauty and personal care for Euromonitor. Europe has traditionally been a gel market, but as the nail art trend moves from Asia to the U.S. to Europe, nail polish sales are exploding. The Gen Y gen-

treatments, as a potent two-step system that addresses dandruff, scalp psoriasis, eczema and seborrhea.

Boosted by the global nail art trend, nail color may overcome lipstick as the go-to product for a reasonably priced beauty pick-me-up.

eration is using eye-catching nails in wild colors, textures and patterns as a way to distinguish their look in a very personalized way, and they are spending big money to achieve it.

Multi-step hair care In an effort to minimize the frequency of visits to the hair salon, consumers are seeking to nourish and treat their hair at home. This led to strong growth in the hair care category in 2012, second only to skin care. Solid sales of conditioners opened the door for companies to move beyond the traditional two-step shampoo and conditioner strategy and introduce multi-step hair routines, similar to skin care regimens. Make way for more oil, leave-in and overnight treatments, masks, anti-agers and damage control solutions. New launches for 2013 include targeted

Skin care goes double duty All-in-one skin care solutions rank high with beauty buyers who are eager to save time and money. The explosion of beauty balm (BB) and color correction (CC) creams is making way for daily defense (DD) creams, which target the body as well as the face. Women today do not have the time to layer on a dozen products to get ready every morning. They want formulations that perform well and do double or triple duty. The most sought after benefits are SPF protection, hydration, oil control, brightening, anti-redness and anti-wrinkle. A natural consequence of this trend is the blurring of the lines between skin care and makeup, body care, hand care and nail care. continues • Page 43

Brighten up The Asia-Pacific region has been credited with the huge growth in lightening and brightening products, but the desire for brighter and more radiant skin is also strong across Europe, the Middle East, Africa and North America.

In China, Asia and Korea, getting older is revered as an accomplishment that includes the accumulation of wisdom and mind-body balance. Aging is a valued process, and Asia does it with grace, boosted by targeted skin care solutions. Look East Asia, the origin of the BB and CC craze and brightening/lightening products, continues to be the incubator for new trends sweeping the world. Another trend from the region could have us changing our attitude toward aging. In China, Asia and Korea, getting older is revered as an accomplishment that includes the accumulation of wisdom and mindbody balance. Beauty products reflect this attitude with skin care that promotes a positive and active approach to aging. Aging is a valued process, and Asia does it with grace, boosted by targeted skin care solutions.

The personal touch As consumers clamor to personalize their world, the demand for customized beauty products and treatments is growing. We already have store shelves filled with skin care and makeup that targets specific age groups and specialized concerns. The next step will be customized skin care formulated with ingredients based on personal genetics that could delay cellular aging. The SpaFinder® Wellness 2013 Trend report highlighted genomic testing as a new Page 44 •

The Cosmetic Executive Women’s trend analysis of the 2013 Beauty Insider’s Choice Awards makes the following assertion: “Brands have been creating a myriad of products that immediately target dark spots and prevent future spots from developing. Although hydroquinone remains the gold standard ingredient for brightening among many dermatologists, new alternatives based on novel enzymes and peptides have been launched into the professional skin care arena.”

Smart gadgets Consumers are empowered today to take beauty treatments into their homes, resulting in the growth of at-home devices. From cleaning, exfoliating and pore cleaning gadgets to energy-based hair removal and teeth whitening, more and more devices are appearing on the market. The next generation of home devices will be able to resurface skin so patients can help maintain their results after inoffice laser and light-based procedures. “The market for at-home skin care devices is definitely growing at an unparalleled speed,” says Robb Akridge, Ph.D., cofounder and vice president of

clinical affairs for Clarisonic. “Consumers are motivated by the convenience and efficacy provided by at-home skin care devices, and use devices to enhance or extend the beauty experience provided by estheticians or physicians. Right now, cleansing and anti-aging are two key benefits offered.“

Boys will be boys Between “Brotox,” dermal fillers, cosmetic surgery, skin care, mani-pedis and laser hair removal, the men’s grooming market is exploding—fueled in large part by the pressure on them to appear young and vital in the workplace. In France, Germany, Italy, Spain and Great Britain, men’s skin care sales have been skyrocketing, according to the 2013 SpaFinder Wellness Trend Report. However, it is Latin America that will lead future growth in the sector, particularly for Brazil, which is expected to represent one third of the men’s market by 2016. Another reason for the spurt is that younger men today are so much more comfortable with a grooming routine. They are even going for bikini waxing, known as the “boy-zilian.”

Futuristic vision In the coming decade, look for accepted skin care beliefs to be re-examined. Skin rejuvenation may go deeper to target the fat layer, and neurotransmitters may be used to calm skin and reduce irritation. The future is looking very bright for the beauty industry! n

Wendy Lewis is the president of Wendy Lewis & Co Ltd., Global Aesthetics Con­­sultancy, founder and editor-in-chief of and author of numerous books. Find her online at, on Twitter @WLCO, on Facebook under WendyLewisNYC and LinkedIn under Wendy Lewis. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: PT Images/

science-based foundation for more precise preventative medicine that offers a genetically grounded roadmap for living better. The report indicated that this could be adopted by the beauty and spa industries.


SESHA Skin Therapy offers a delivery system that enables active ingredients to penetrate the skin’s protective outer layers and nourish new growing skin layers. Using the clinically proven delivery system, Permeation Enhancement Technology (P.E.T.®), SESHA enables deep, controlled penetration. By making the active ingredients more soluble and temporarily modifying the permeability of the skin, large-molecule active ingredients are combined with P.E.T., and are able to pass through the skin cell barrier to reach the dermal layer, says the company. 888.977.3742


Swiss skin care company Corena Therapeutics® breaks new ground in the dermatology industry with safe alternatives to popular treatments. With five steroid-free, high-efficiency treatments for difficult skin conditions, Corena Therapeutics is providing lifechanging therapeutic performance without commonly associated side effects, says the company. Coresatin, the latest brand of five steroid-free creams, recently launched in Europe. 41.32.721.29.01

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

The LUNA™ Pro from new Swedish brand FOREO is an anti-aging and facial-cleansing device with a unique cleansing surface of soft silicone touchpoints. This delivers a deep, gentle cleaning, with Dual T-Sonic™ pulsations reaching beneath the skin’s surface to increase blood flow by up to 450 percent, says the company. The relaxing waves of the antiaging mode ease away facial tension, diminishing expression lines and dynamic wrinkles.




Le Mieux debuts EGF-DNA to turn back the clock on sagging, aging, flaky skin and restore it to a more youthful state. It is formulated with epidermal growth factor to repair wounds and recover a healthy, luminous glow. Le Mieux EGF-DNA relies on DNA technology to increase the skin’s mitosis and the synthesis of proteins, as well as increase circulation and help collagen accumulate, says the company. 888.327.8188




The Even Out Brightening Pigment Corrector from HydroPeptide™ blocks melanin pathways and safely fades age spots, sun damage, acne scars and pregnancy mask with five corrective skin brighteners. The patented Beta White peptide and Chromabright are included as safe and effective alternatives to hydroquinone in this serum, designed to break up sun spots and other types of hyperpigmentation. The formula fades imperfections and supports a more uniform skin tone by exfoliating, reducing inflammation and extending the life span of cells, says the company. A healthy dose of antioxidants wards off future dermal damage. 800.932.9873

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CALM AWAKENING Lady Burd’s ultra-creamy Calming Night-Time Moisturizer comforts and calms the skin during sleep for a more radiant appearance. The pomegranate and algae extract provide instant hydration to the skin, helping it maintain vital moisture, says the company. Grapeseed and green tea extract provide relief from redness and irritation, while turmeric root extract assists in the relief of dry skin, and treats skin conditions such as eczema and acne. 800.345.3448


Kerstin Florian International’s Beach Bag Essentials Kit contains the perfect necessities for any summer voyage. A nourishing Multi-Vitamin Day Crème in the package allows users the ability to soak up some sun rays with SPF 30 protection. The Sun Protection SPF 30 contains antioxidants and calming extracts. Antioxidants, vitamins and botanicals support skin structure. Neroli Water is a unique and natural floral water with bitter orange blossom that soothes, hydrates and freshens the skin. A refreshing Lavender Body Spray is also included in the package to soothe sunburns and dry skin. FuB Balm protects feet and legs to help stimulate and balance the senses, says the company. 888.537.7846

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013


auricular therapy

top to bottom: Antonio Diaz/; Mark Yuill/

by Robert Sachs

ALL EASTERN HEALTH CARE systems extol the benefits of massaging the ears. In Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), this is known as auricular therapy. There are detailed maps of acupuncture points that reflect organs and structures throughout the body. When someone goes to a Chinese medical practitioner to receive acupuncture, there are little needles left in the ears to address any number of issues—from sciatica to helping one stop smoking. Similarly, in Ayurveda there are marma points that also reflect other parts of the body. At the same time, they are said to be of benefit for mental clarity and working with awakening psycho-spiritual energy. Both systems also teach how massage and stimulating the ears in general is good for the ears and the sense that they are associated with: hearing. At the same time, whilst our healing systems may not have a systematized understanding of the benefits of ear massage, the common sense of our mothers teaches us that if we cover our ears when we go outside in the cold and wind, we shall stay warmer, feel more comfortable and avoid risking ear infection from inclement conditions. And while we may think that it is just a superstition to pull on your earlobes when you are feeling angry, this affect is corroborated in Ayurveda. There is a marma on the earlobe called Karnapali, which is treated for ADHD, vertigo, tinnitus, stress and anxiety. In the East, the healing science of visual diagnosis teaches us that the shape of our ears is the same as the shape of a baby in the womb, and that the locations of all the organs and the skeletal structure are proportionately in the same places we would find them in a curled July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

up baby. Thus the folds of the outside pinna (ridge) and the one slightly inside the outer edge represent the spine, with the base of the spine being at the apex of the ears and the head being in the lobe. Furthermore, the whole structure is the same shape and roughly the same size

A part of the body as small as the ear can yield such positive, stress releasing results. as our kidneys. Not surprisingly, there is a strong correlation between our hearing and the strength of our kidneys. Although this all sounds so remarkable, you do not need to have a background in TCM or Ayurveda. A simple and effective ear massage will be very relaxing for your client. Standing at the head of the table behind your client’s head, take a small amount of oil and gently coat the entire surface of the ears. Although most people massage on both sides of the head simultaneously with identical strokes, such an action is slightly weakening. For that reason I recommend doing one ear at a time in alternating motions. Starting at the top of the ear, use your thumbs, index fingers and middle fingers to roll the pinna. Notice where the pinna feels thickened; notice where it feels thinned. These will be areas of tension and stress in the body, which tend to be the spine and neck. Do this three to five times, from the apex of the ears right down to the lobes. Next, turn the head first to the left, and fan your right hand over

the ear, bending it gently back and forth on itself. This will be felt down the back and generate heat. Repeat on the other side, fanning the ear five to ten times. Then ask your client to close their eyes while you rest your palms gently over both ears and hold. Allow your client to rest in silence for 30 seconds, then slowly move your hands away. This entire sequence will take no more than three to five minutes. It is incredible that a part of the body as small as the ear can yield such positive, stress releasing results. If you are still not convinced of the powers of ear massage, try it on yourself to see what it can do for you. n

Robert Sachs is a counselor, licensed massage therapist and educator. He is the author of Tibetan Ayurveda: Health Secrets From the Roof of the World and coauthor with Melanie Sachs of Ayurvedic Spa. Visit Sachs’ website at, email him at, call him at 866.303.3321 or phone/fax him at 805.543.9291.

at left: acupuncture points on ear • Page 47


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and a shaman

LA MIRAGE SPA AND RESORT, COTACACHI, ECUADOR ON MY AMAZING VISIT TO LA MIRAGE Spa and Resort in Cotacachi, Ecuador, I was part of a group of seven women on a two-hour minibus ride through green mountains covered with patchwork quilt potato and corn fields from Quito, Ecuador to Cotacachi. This trip began in a noisy city and ended up at the aptly named La Mirage Garden Hotel and Spa, which appeared out of nowhere like an oasis on a rough cobblestone road. As soon as the wrought iron gates of La Mirage slid silently open to a lush tangle of bougainvillea, hibiscus and old-fashioned pink roses, we breathed a collective sigh of appreciation. The resort, the first spa to open in Ecuador, has 24 individually decorated suites, most of them with a small pocket of a garden where one can sit and watch the hummingbirds flit from flower to flower. Built on an old working hacienda that can only be reached by horse, La Mirage was established 22 years ago, with only two cabins and one treatment room. Yet despite its growth, La Mirage has remained true to its roots. “A sense of place is our philosophy,” says owner Jorge Espinosa. “Whenever possible, we use local ingredients in our treatments, such as clay and indigenous herbs. We also engage and train local women, often single or widowed with children.” Every day followed a lovely routine, starting with a breakfast buffet of local cheeses, sausage, yogurt, fruit and fresh-squeezed exotic juices, in addition to heavenly menu items. We all indulged and laughed off any diet concerns. La Mirage is a place for indulgence, not Spartan regimes.

Between the seven of us, we probably sampled all of the 22 treatments available. Charmingly, each of the 10 treatment rooms is decorated in a different style, from an Egyptian palace with columns and hieroglyphs to an underwater grotto, its blue walls studded with drifts of shells. “We look at our treatment choices as the restaurant does its menu,” explains Espinosa. “We have small, short treatments such as foot reflexology as appetizers, the long treatments are the entrée, and facials are always the dessert as they come at the very end.” Espinosa is always trying out new treatments and eliminating older, less popular ones. Currently, he is perfecting a treatment using materials and ideas from the ancient Inca and Mayan civilizations. The menu favorite is the 90-minute Puri­fication Treatment performed by a female shaman named Sofia. Not knowing what to expect, I was prepared to be surprised. I step into the dark room and face a fire snapping in the fireplace. A bowl with smoldering cinders sits in the middle of a woven mat. In each corner lies a bundle of herbs, which I later learn are ruda and marco—both local, as well as the more familiar rosemary. There is just a moment’s pause as Sofia takes my robe and directs me to stand in front of the bowl. Yes, I’m standing there naked in front of a stranger, vulnerable with all of my faults— imagined or otherwise—exposed. Then I look at the shaman and realize she is a holy person, nonjudgmental and kind. She is younger than I would have imagined a shaman to be, clothed in continues


spa|magic and a shaman

a white skirt and white embroidered blouse with a bright red woven belt and matching headband. Her face is round and smooth, her eyes warm. She picks up the bundles of herbs, sprays them with alcohol and the ceremony begins. The shock of being gently struck with the herb bundles to drive out the evil spirits is instinctual, and I shiver even in the warmth of the fireplace. Sofia chants and even I—with my very limited mastery of the language—realize that there are Christian words mingled with the others, just as the mantle holds a primitive statue as well as Catholic ones. This is very much a mix of the old and new religion. The ceremony proceeds with a candle, two eggs, smoke and carnation petals sprayed with a signature scent called “amor,” each step meant to rid you of negative energy and protect you with an invisible shield of positive energy. At last I am led to a sunken bath with red rose petals floating. After I sink into the tub, the recorded sound of Gregorian chants sifts into the room as Sofia exfoliates my face and arms, then gently washes me. Suddenly the shaman morphs into a mother. During this process I have abandoned any useless self-consciousness, realizing that I am perfect just as I am. The treatment culminates in what may be the best massage ever. Sofia projects an unbelievable amount of strength from her small body through her hands and arms. I don’t want this experience to ever end. Alas, it does, and I am given a protective bracelet of red beads as a gift before Sophia clasps my hands and says a prayer. I practically stagger into the lounge to sip a cup of herbal tea, again in front of a fire. Two of the other women in my group are also relaxing on the long sofa, and we begin to share our very

personal stories, each one of us opened by our individualized treatments. The evenings always start in the Pandora Lounge, with either wine or the La Mirage signature cocktail of Campari and grapefruit juice, followed by dinner in the resort’s restaurant. Each course is a celebration. One night, the appetizer arrives in front of each of us in a music box. Entrées are presented under silver covers that are quickly whipped off by the servers. Describing the amazing food itself would take up an entire article. Suffice it to say that La Mirage also offers a package with cooking lessons and local excursions. None of us ever skipped dessert on this trip—it was just that kind of vacation. Returning to my room, a fire was already lit in the fireplace, and a hot water bottle greeted me as I finally slid under the covers. I drifted off, knowing that there was another treatment to try tomorrow. Perhaps the Cofan Treatment that uses oiled bamboo sticks and ends with its very own hot tea of Amazonian herbs? Ahhhhhh ... n

Christina Oldham was born in Berlin, Germany. Due to her cultural background, she is steeped in the tradition of “spa cures” and “taking the waters.” Since moving to the United States at the age of 17, Oldham has worked in publishing. Writing and visiting spas is the perfect marriage of two of her passions. Oldham is currently a vice president at Pearson Education, the world’s largest learning company.

Page 50 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photos courtesy of Christina Oldham


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #285 on reader service card


Our industry’s finest!

The annual LNE & Spa Awards honor the best spas in our industry for the third year in a row! This distinction was created to honor spas that exemplify true excellence. This year, LNE & Spa recognizes one incredible spa in each of the following categories: International Spa, Wellness & Organic Spa, Day Spa, Medical Spa and Luxury Spa. Spas from all over the world were evaluated based on a variety of key elements, from the specialized treatments offered to the quality of customer service, menu design, functionality of the facility, guest evaluations and ambiance. After candidate applications were screened and reviewed, editor-in-chief Denise R. Fuller selected the winners. By recognizing standout spas from around the world, the LNE & Spa Awards create benchmarks for high standards. To be considered for the 2014 LNE & Spa Awards, nominate your spa at Congratulations to all the winners for 2013!

WELLNESS & ORGANIC SPA Winner: The Bathhouse at Calistoga Ranch 580 Lommel Road Calistoga, CA 94515 Phone: 855.942.4220

INTERNATIONAL SPA Winner: KurSpa at Sparkling Hill Resort 888 Sparkling Place Vernon, BC V1H 2K7 Canada Phone: 877.275.1556

DAY SPA Winner: Vito Mazza Salon & Spa 114 Main Street Woodbridge Township, NJ 07095 Phone: 732.636.0119

LUXURY SPA Winner: Si Spa 3800 North Ocean Drive Singer Island, FL 33404 Phone: 561.340.1755 MEDICAL SPA Winner: TriBeCa MedSpa 114 Hudson Street New York, NY 10013 Phone: 212.925.9500

Page 52 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013



photos courtesy of The Sparkling Hill Resort


Three and a half million Swarovski crystals are incorporated into the Sparkling Hill Resort in British Columbia, home of the renowned KurSpa. Gernot Langes-Swarovski, patriarch of the Swarovski family, is the principle owner of the modern oasis. Nestled away in the mountains near Vernon, it overlooks Lake Okanagan. Swarovski’s vision for this extravagant establishment was to share the European approach to whole body wellness and transformative therapies at a magnificent destination. The extensive range of health and wellness programs offered at KurSpa target cleansing, weight loss, detoxification, fitness and much more. Naturopathic medicine, nutritional counseling, acupuncture, traditional massage, water therapies, facials and salon services are all on the menu. Some of the many extravagant amenties at KurSpa include three hot saunas (herbal, panorama and classic), a cold sauna, three pools where guests can enjoy therapeutic water experiences and three steam rooms (rose, salt and crystal). n




photos courtesy of The Bath House at Calistoga Ranch

The Bathhouse at Calistoga Ranch is tucked away in a private canyon of the upper Napa Valley, set on a 157-acre site marked by lush oaks, majestic hills and a private lake. It is designed to be a place of complete relaxation, delivering the ultimate experience in curative healing. The rejuvenating natural Napa sanctuary allows guests to wash their cares away in soaking pools with a healing water massage or regenerate with yoga in a private mineral water pool. Here, a holistic approach is taken with facials, using aromatherapy and natural skin care. The Bathhouse Spa prides itself on their exceptional team of therapists, who have been carefully selected for their healing talents. Other resort amenities and perks include a state-of-the-art fitness center, a yoga deck, a pool featuring dramatic views of the resort’s private vineyard and oak groves, and 140 acres of land dedicated to hiking for outdoor enthusiasts who want to connect with Mother Nature. n

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photos courtesy of Si Spa


From the therapeutic qualities of the seawater to the mesmerizing rhythm of waves breaking on the beach, the Si Spa is a sanctuary for the body, mind and soul on Florida's Gold Coast. Relaxation and indulgence are available in a selection of spa services that redefine luxury. Si Spa blends modern technology with ancient arts in a fresh approach to well-being. The spa features eight treatment suites named after magestic seas from around the world. Each treatment is inspired by indigenous elements and customs of the area it represents, and is delivered by highly experienced spa professionals. Guests enjoy the Sargasso Si-weed and Chakra experience, which incorporates the benefits of spirulina algae and sea kelp to tone, lift and rejuvenate the body. The Four if by Si is another popular choice; this four-handed massage provides an especially unique relaxing and blissful experience. n



Since its grand opening in 2006, the mission at TriBeCa MedSpa has been to make guests look and feel beautiful. The worlds of beauty and spa meet advanced medical technology in this facility, offering world class treatments and a tranquil atmosphere. As a neurotology/otolaryngology specialist, owner Dr. Camille Meyer was determined to create a state of the art medical spa. She has collaborated with New York’s top plastic surgeons, physician assistants, nurse practitioners and experienced medical estheticians, and has brought a few to Tribeca! The medical director at TriBeCa is Gerald D. Ginsberg, M.D., a renowned plastic surgeon. TriBeCa MedSpa offers the most effective medical skin and body treatments. With a lineup of service offerings that includes injectables, chemical peels, laser treatments and hair removal, clients are never rushed to make a decision, and complimentary consultations are provided. Treatments and procedures are customized to each individual’s needs, and educating the clients on the optimal service to choose for the health of their skin is a top priority. n


114 HUDSON STREET NEW YORK, NEW YORK 10013 212.925.9500 WWW.TRIBECAMEDSPA.COM Page 56 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photos courtesy TriBeCa Med Spa




photos courtesy of Vitomazza Salon & Spa

For more than 45 years, Vito Mazza Salon & Spa has been providing outstanding services in a warm, friendly and upbeat atmosphere. The beautiful 5,500 square foot facility boasts over 85 amazing employees, technicians and therapists delivering the very best in services. Owner Vito Mazza is a dynamic leader, passionate about supporting the community through various charitable organizations. Guests at Vito Mazza experience a sanctuary of relaxation, where they can unwind in total comfort and escape their daily stresses. Full and half day packages are available with service offerings that include massage, facials, manicures, exfoliating pedicures, makeup artistry and so much more. It is easy to see why Vito Mazza Salon & Spa has generated customer loyalty that spans multiple generations! n

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 57

traditional Chinese medicine TRADITIONAL CHINESE MEDICINE (TCM) IS THE oldest healing system on the planet; it has been in continuous practice for thousands of years. The philosophical origin of TCM has grown out of observing nature and how it operates. TCM has the power to help us discover our own true potential, and unlock our natural talents and unique gifts that make us who we are. It gives each individual the wisdom and understanding to unite the body, mind and spirit. TCM teaches an individual to create balance, wellness and harmony, and ultimately total body wellness. In the Western world, we view the body as similar to a machine, and when it is broken or not functioning properly, we simply try to repair it or replace it with new parts. We have doctors that specialize in every part of the body, which can replace a part (hip or knee replacement) or organ (heart, kidneys, liver), or even remove them (tonsils, spleen, appendix, hysterectomy) without even understanding the consequences on the body. The body is viewed completely differently in TCM; it is seen as whole, and everything is believed to be interconnected. When one organ is not functioning normally, it produces an imbalance in the body, thus creating a domino effect on the rest of the body. Imagine the body as an orchestra in which one instrument is out of tune. Would it not sound awful?

by Goldie Bonnell

TCM treats the body as a whole; maintaining balance in the body is health. If the body is out of balance it will result in some kind of ailment, thus creating stress on the body. Traditional Chinese Medicine is based on a broad range of medicinal practices that were developed in China more than 2,000 years ago. These ancient traditions include herbal medicine, acupuncture, tui na (massage), Qigong (exercise) and nutritional and dietary therapy. TCM principles are in synergy with nature and harmonize with it. Yellow Emperor’s Classic of Internal Medicine is a book that dates as far back as 2600 BC in the doctrines of Chinese medicine. This book showed that practitioners were already using the deep rooted philosophy of Yin and Yang. In order to understand how the universe and human life balanced each other, Chinese men went on a quest to find this puzzling answer in ancient times. How do the seasons follow each other in a pattern? The fact is, there is an obvious state of high energy and low energy; there is an opposite like night and day. The theories of Yin and Yang were the creation of ancient Chinese observing the cycles and changes in nature. They also realized that the material world was in a constant state of fluctuation, and these oppositions and interdependence led to the Yin and Yang theory. The ancient Chinese applied these two theories in the medical arena, and this is how it became an important contribution to TCM. These early observations form the foundation for

Page 58 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: Chinaview/

for total body wellness

spa how Chinese medicine works. As human beings we mimic the workings of the universe, thus creating harmony, happiness and longevity. Man is part of the universe and cannot be separated from the universal progress of change. In TCM, health is a harmonious functioning body (sleeping patterns, digestion and breathing are all connected), and illness/disease is caused by disharmony in the body. In TCM a diagnosis is determined by palpating the pulse, inspecting the tongue and tracing a pattern in one’s lifestyle. It is a philosophy that has many documented success stories through the centuries. With our Western perspective and scientific approach, it is hard to understand and grasp the concept of TCM. Regardless, it is having a huge resurgence in our world today, and many people are steering away from the negative side effects of drugs, medication and surgery. Even though we do not fully understand this philosophy, we are trying to accept it, as we have experienced the negative side effects of the Western world in our bodies for far too long! Optimum health should result from living as harmoniously as possible within the progress of change tending toward balance. If there is no change (stagnation), or too much change (catastrophism), balance is increasingly lost, and illness and death can occur. The underlying principles have remained unchanged over the centuries, and the real aim of Chinese healing is to encourage the prevention of disease and keep the body harmonious, balanced and in perfect health.

Yin and Yang

In Chinese culture, YIN (black or moon) and YANG (white or sun) represent the two opposite principles in nature. All things in nature have a Yin and Yang aspect of opposing energies. Yin represents the feminine or negative character in nature, and Yang represents the masculine or positive in nature. Each contains some of the other, but Yin is predominant in females and Yang is predominant in males. Yin essentially is a female, as the personality tends to be more nurturing, passive, introverted, calm, intuitive and soft. Yang essentially is male, as the personality tends to be more active, outgoing, focused, aggressive, logical and impatient. Yin and Yang are always in pairs: moon and sun, female and male, dark and bright, hot and cold, moist and dry, slow and fast, indecisive and decisive, emotionally driven and detail oriented. The concept of Yin and Yang has a long and documented history, dating as far back as the Yin Dynasty between 1400 to 1100 BC. The earliest Chinese medical book, Huangdi Neijing (Yellow Emperor’s Classic of Medicine), written about 2,000 years ago, is based on the Yin and Yang principle. To this day, it is still an important and vital concept in Traditional Chinese Medicine. In TCM, the water element and kidneys are viewed as among the most important, because they are the root of yin and yang energy. July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Understanding why everything is based on energy

The energy or life force (Chi or Qi) is the foundation for TCM. The basic “building block” of everything in nature, the universe and our bodies is energy. It is all around us; everything is energy. With thousands of years of deep knowledge of Chi/Qi, it is a profoundly accurate and effective healing system. This holistic medicine has complete understanding of how energy moves, and how to move it to create balance and a sense of well-being. The energy flows in channels known as meridians—our energy pathways. Think of each meridian as a river of energy that starts at a specific point and flows either upward or downward and ends at a specific point. There are 12 energy pathways in the body. When there are no blockages or stagnation, the energy can reach all our vital organs and nourish them. When there are blockages or stagnation, we will feel sick and have aches and pains within our body. Imbalances can impact us emotionally and physically, and it can affect how we think and rationalize everything. Yin meridians flow upward from the Earth, and Yang meridians flow downward from the heavens. We have 12 main meridians, and each is connected to one of the 12 organs and travels along them. We also have eight extraordinary meridians, making a total of 20 meridians. The 12 principle meridians correspond to the yin and yang organs and the pericardium. The Yin organs include the pericardium, liver, heart, spleen, lung and kidneys. The Yang organs include the gall bladder, stomach, bladder, small and large intestines. The circulation pathway flows from the face to the feet, from the feet to the chest, from the chest to the hands and from the hands back to the face. The Yang energy flows along the lateral side of the body and Yin flows along the medial side. We have 365 tsubo points which are located along the meridians systems, and these points are affected when a constriction or stagnation occurs. Tsubo points/acupoints will alert the body that an imbalance has occurred with numbness, pain, stiffness, increased or decreased sensitivity. There are also additional internal tsubo points in the body; it is believed we have a total of about 400 tsubo points within the body. Tsubo points can be stimulated or sedated to ensure proper energy flow along the affected meridian. Tsubo points are referred to by the name of the meridian where they are located, and followed by a number that indicates what order the point is on. They can be located by feeling a subtle difference in the temperature and tension of the skin. In TCM, emotions play a major part in gauging one’s health, as an emotional state is also related to a function of an organ. By balancing the function of the organ or organs, there will be a balancing of the emotions. How is this possible? Let’s say a person has suffered a broken heart from a difficult situation; if it is not addressed, it will eventually cause an organ function disorder, and the heart will fall out of balance. Heart issues will create imbalances in other organs, and the emotional state of the entire body will be affected. continues • Page 59

spa|traditional chinese medicine

Prevention is the best cure. Our body continually gives us signs and symptoms about it’s state of health, yet we simply choose to ignore it at first.

The understanding with TCM is that the body functions as a whole, and the mind, spirit and emotions are completely connected. Therefore, any excess emotion can impact the normal function and balance of the corresponding organ. The opposite is also true—an imbalance of an organ function can lead to an emotional imbalance.

The basics of TCM: Components of a medical diagnosis

Blood: Blood is recognized in TCM, but Qi has a higher importance. Blood is yin in nature and nourishes the body, and Shen maintains the body. Jing: Translates into “essence,” and is referred to as “prenatal Qi.” It is the essence of the body, the foundation for reproduction and continuous growth and development. Jing promotes kidney Qi and helps protect the body from external factors. Jing is re-energized by nutrition and is passed onto you during conception. Think of it as DNA in the Western world. If we have a strong and healthy constitution, we have strong Jing. It is believed that when our Jing is weak or we have too little of it, the result can be childhood learning difficulties. Further down the road it can lead to infertility, poor memory, allergies and a chronic tendency to be ill. In TCM, our reproduction, growth and determination is stored in the kidneys; therefore it is vital to keep the kidneys healthy. Shen: Translates into “spirit.” Our thoughts, decisions, psyche of the mind, creative plans and desire to live life are all characterized by Shen. Shen is Yang in nature and our heart stores it. It is our personality and who we are. Signs of a weak Shen are slow thinking, muddled thoughts, insomnia, restlessness, depression and an inability to think properly. It can lead to simply giving up and even suicide. Fluids: They are created by the food we eat and regulated by Qi. Their function is to moisten and lubricate our skin, hair and membranes; they are responsible for maintaining hydration balance in our joints, bones and brain. Fluids are considered to be Yin in nature. When we are weak from lack of fluids, we experience constipation, dehydration, dry skin, eye irritation, headaches and an overall sense of not feeling well.

The four key traditional Chinese medicine principles

1. The body is an integrated whole. The physical body has an interrelated system that is powered by Qi—our life force or energy. Our ability to heal ourselves exists within us. 2. We are completely connected to nature—any changes in nature always affect our body. Our health issues are related to the season, geographical location, time of day, age, gender and genetics. 3. We were born with a natural self-healing ability—nature has a way to regenerate itself and so do we. TCM helps us to recharge our body’s self-healing mechanism. 4. Prevention is the best cure. Our body continually gives us signs and symptoms about it’s state of health, yet we simply choose to ignore it at first. TCM teaches you how to communicate with your body and be proactive about your health. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #189

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spa|traditional chinese medicine

TCM healing modalities

Every TCM modality is based on the vital energy life force of Qi. We are all born with the ability to heal ourselves, and TCM practitioners recharge that function within us. These modalities balance and increase our Qi, giving our body the boost it needs to create total body wellness. Acupuncture: How long has acupuncture been used to heal? Nobody really knows for sure. We know this ancient therapy has been helping many for at least 3,000 years, dating back to 1,000 BC. In modern excavation sites in China, they discovered ancient “bone and stone needles” believed to be as old as 5,000 years! It is one of the oldest and most commonly used healing therapies in the world. Acupuncture circulates energy between the surface and internal organs by balancing yin and yang energy. Moxibustion: There are two methods used in moxibustion and various grades of moxa. The main dried herb used is moxa, which is derived from the mug wart. When lit, it has a very musky odor, burns slowly and creates a large amount of smoke. Direct moxibustion: The loose moxa is formed into small cones and then placed on specific tsubo points on the body. Then the cones are lit on fire and allowed to burn down to the skin. The heat will aid in the stimulation of Qi and blood flow. Not only will the heat stimulate stagnant Qi and blood flow, it will also form a blister and aid in the healing process. Upon completion of the burning moxa, the skin will be ready, and the ash left behind will be removed. Depending on how many treatments are necessary, this process can be repeated. Indirect moxibustion: The practitioner uses long, rolled sticks of moxa (six to eight inches) and lights them over the blocked tsubo point. Loose moxa can also be burned on the handle of the needle that has been inserted into the tsubo point to create extra heat and help with Qi flow. Another method is to place the moxa on a medium such as ginger (a thin slice), garlic or salt and allow it to burn. Moxibustion can be used as a stand alone treatment or combined with acupuncture. Acupressure: TCM acupressure is called tuina. This therapy uses specific hand techniques or tools to stimulate Qi. Acupressure stimulates stagnant Qi and allows it to flow freely once again. This therapy is believed to be even older than

acupuncture. It is sometimes referred to as a needle-free acupuncture. By stimulating tsubo points, it increases the circulation of blood and Qi to help with healing. Acupressure is a medical treatment that helps the body heal itself using its own energy. Acupressure is very beneficial for treating external problems such as sprains or injury. TCM doctors sometimes combine acupuncture and acupressure in order to accelerate the healing benefits. TCM herbology: The use of herbs has formed the foundation for Chinese medicine. Herbology is practiced throughout China in medical clinics and hospitals. It is the number one choice to treat patients with minimal side effects and cures for many health conditions that the Western world has no cure for. Chinese rhubarb: This vegetable has been used in TCM for over 2,200 years. Originally it had been used as a natural laxative to assist with digestion issues. In TCM it is used to treat jaundice and hepatitis. It has also been used to treat endometriosis, appendicitis, shingles, hypertension, conjunctivitis, tooth aches and sores around the mouth, on the tongue and gum irritations. Ginseng: For over 5,000 years, ginseng has been used to improve muscle tone, decrease blood sugar levels, balance metabolism and hormone levels, prevent headaches, boost the immune system and aid with insomnia and fatigue. It has been recognized for improving memory and increasing vitality. Licorice root (great detoxifier): It can remove over 1,200 various toxins from the body, including drugs, medication and alcohol. Licorice is anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant and antispasmodic. It is used to treat muscle cramps, enlarged prostate, dandruff and arthritis. TCM developed the first formulation system, which was closely documented. Herbal therapy has been used for thousands of years with unchanged recipes. Chinese herbs are a daily part of life in China. An extremely wide range of objects fall into the category of TCM herbs (about 6,000), including a diverse selection of animal parts, dirt, stones, minerals, bones, insects, well known plants, leaves, blossoms, stems and roots. Everything in TCM is energy, and combining unique energies can impact the human body and energy in an amazing way. TCM herbs are truly a unique holistic healing system, and they are part of the Chinese medical health care system.

Eating for healing

photo: Jutamas/

In TCM the majority of diet is comprised of the right food for the season and one’s personality type. Nutrition is considered a medicine, and in order to achieve body harmony, one’s diet must consist of a balance of Yin and Yang foods. TCM understands the “special healing essence” of every food and how it works in the body as energy. In TCM, food is not calculated by calories, minerals, vitamins, carbohydrates, protein and overall nutritional value. TCM practitioners prescribe food as an continues July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 61

spa|traditional chinese medicine essence that heals from within by working on the energy levels. Food is utilized as an essence to balance specific organs that are in need of balance and support.

Qigong works with our meridian system to stimulate and nourish our internal organs. Yin foods: This category includes bland, cool foods and foods that are chopped or liquidized (boiled, poached or steamed). They lower metabolism and have higher water content. Yin foods should be eaten in the summer. Examples of Yin foods: Apples, bananas, berries, carrots, eggplant, fruit juices, grapes, lemon, melons, mushrooms, pears, oranges, raw foods, spinach and strawberries. Yang foods: This group includes rich, spicy and hot foods, as well as foods that are left whole (deep fried, roasted or stir fried). They raise the metabolism and give us energy from fat. Yang foods should be eaten in the winter. Examples of Yang foods: Butter, cheese, cherries, coconut, dates, eggs, garlic, hot and spicy foods, onions, peanuts, smoked fish, squash, tomatoes and vinegar.

Qigong or Qi Gong

The life force—the energy that makes up the universe and our bodies, is the very essence of Qigong. Qigong (consisting of about 7,000 exercises) is not a physical exercise; it uses movements and posture that create many physical healing benefits by increasing and moving our body’s Qi or level of energy. Qigong literally translates into “energy exercises or breath work.“ It breaks down energy blockages, aids in the continuous flow of Qi and helps conserve it. Qigong works with our meridian system to stimulate and nourish our internal organs, and increases the effectiveness of all body systems. n Goldie Bonnell has more than 20 years of experience in the skin care and wellness industries. She has designed programs and client treatments for many spas. Bonnell has been involved in the building of training centers for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica. Teaching is Bonnell’s passion, and she has been a featured speaker on numerous topics at industry trade shows throughout the U.S. and Germany.

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Divine alignment cascade

Our relationship to gems and crystals is more synergistic than you might think. We are actually made of the same universal elements. In a cosmic wink, celestial elements came to Earth from the explosion of stars. So, literally, we are all made of stardust! Earth, animals and humans are connected by this element, which creates a union for divine alignment. Our world is part of a complex yet simple energy matrix, an interconnected web of all forms of life. You are able to


connect to this universal ethernet through your subtle energy body or chakra system. Stress, anxiety and mental chatter run interference from you, receiving conscious information. However, when you are clear of these things, you are able to intuit information to guide you along your path. I like to use the analogy of a television ... without a cable connection you only have static. Once you connect the cable you have access to many channels. Intuitive thought creates a sensation in your body, a feeling like an ‘Aha!’ moment. In an instant, this thought triggers the sensory nervous system, sometimes sending a chill through your body, activating a call to pay attention. It also resonates with your heart—your center of feeling—to validate the message you have received. This resonance creates a sense of excitement at the prospect of a new possibility or solution to a problem. Your mind starts generating ideas to bring this to fruition. It is up to you to follow through and take action.

Why crystals?

Crystals are highly organized structures that store, amplify, focus, transmit and transform energy. They capture the waves of cosmic energy and split this energy into specific frequencies that are reflected in their color and composition. We resonate with their crystalline structure, and are drawn to the stones that will supplement our subtle body of energy. This is why crystals are so useful in treatments, meditation and healing.

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treatment photo by Karen Maze Photography

WHEN I WAS A LITTLE GIRL, I HAD THE GREAT FORTUNE of living in different states as well as overseas while growing up. My love of nature started early in Hawaii, when I would collect seashells on Waikiki and string leis from flowers in my backyard. But it was in Denver, CO where my lifelong attraction to beautiful stones truly began. We lived in a new community surrounded by fields. A little creek in one of these fields held a bounty of treasures, including agates, and some of the best petrified wood I have ever collected. From that day forward, the rock hunt was on! As I grew older, I gradually let go of many things, but never my rock collection. My beautiful childhood rocks now line our garden in the backyard. The plant and mineral worlds love to hang out together looking beautiful for us.


Gemstone photos courtesy of Bertaut Beauty/Chakralicious

Gems around the world

Ancient texts reveal practices that are still in use today. In Sumerian, Greek, Roman and Indian cultures, gemstone healing was combined with the knowledge of astronomy, astrology, the five elements, herbs and gemstones. Some gems were crushed into a fine powder, burnt to ash or made into a paste before being consumed as a form of energy medicine. The practice of Ayurveda still incorporates these connections into treatments for clients. Carnelian was a talisman of good luck for the ancient Bab­ ylonians and Greeks. It was widely used in ancient Rome to make signet or seal rings for imprinting a seal on letters or important documents (hot wax does not stick to carnelian). Roman men wore rings of carnelian to instill strength, courage, honor and success. The emperor Napoleon jealously guarded a carnelian seal, which he found in an Egyptian campaign and often wore as a watch charm. The most important carnelian deposits are found in Brazil, Uruguay, India and Madagascar. Carnelian’s colors of red and orange stimulate the first and second chakras providing passion, creativity and the vigor to pursue desires. A carnelian from Madagascar is pictured above. Amethyst has a colorful history in many cultures. The He­brew word, ahlamah, means “dream stone.” It is an excellent stone July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

for meditation, dreaming and past life work, and it can help you see your path. The name amethyst comes from the Greek word amethustos, meaning “not drunken.” It was believed that goblets made of amethyst prevented intoxication. The color purple or violet is associated with royalty and the crown or seventh chakra, your connection to the divine. Members of the royal family felt it was their God given right to rule, and only members of the royal family were allowed to wear the color purple. Pictured above is an amesthyst from Brazil. Tourmaline’s name is derived from Sri Lanka’s Sinhalese word “toramalli,” which means “mixed stones.” In Sri Lanka folklore, it was believed that tourmaline was found in all colors because it traveled along the rainbow, gathering all of the rainbow’s colors. In China, tourmaline first appeared during the Tang Dynasty in 644 CE, when royal seals were carved out of tourmaline. In the early 20th century, the Empress Dowager purchased several tons of colored tourmaline from the Tourmaline Queen Mine in San Diego County, CA. Black tourmaline, associated with the root or base chakra, is continues • Page 65


Beauty in harmony with nature.

excellent for grounding. It provides psychic self-defense and protection against bad vibes. Therefore it is an ideal stone for anyone working in the beauty industry. Black tourmaline from China is pictured on the previous page. Turquoise has been revered in past civilizations around the world. In the Americas, turquoise was a sacred stone having mystical powers, bringing happiness, good health and fortune to the person wearing it. It was used in masks for ceremonies, and as an important trading commodity and friendship exchange between the different Native American societies. The Turquoise Trail of Cerrillos Hills in New Mexico was an important source of gold, silver, lead and turquoise for many years. It is now a state park preserving their mining history. At the spa, you can make gemstone elixirs using the whole stone without destroying it. See the recipe below.

Making your gem elixir before treatment wrinkle formation

after treatment skin after third peeling

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Gather an assortment of crystals and polished stones. Sit for a few moments to connect with the colors and attributes of the stones. Select the ones that call out to you. Wash them thoroughly with dish soap and warm water. Place your gem selection into a clean bowl and fill it with enough water to cover the stones. Let it sit for one hour. You may place the bowl in the light of the sun for vitality or the light of the moon for introspection. Serve the infused water with mint sprigs and fruit slices for your clients to enjoy.

In closing after treatment regeneration of tissue after fourth peel

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Gemstones contribute their wisdom when we are ready to receive it. They come out of the Earth to travel with us. Your ideal gemstones will find you. Align yourself with their energy, and you will have an ally for healing and bringing your vision to fruition. n

Author, esthetician, Reiki master teacher, and award-winning inner & outer beauty expert, Linda Bertaut specializes in bringing inner beauty to the surface, and inspiring others to do the same. She founded Bertaut Beauty and Chakralicious to help professionals add wellness therapies to their menu of services. Join Bertaut at her blog for more ways to feed your inner rainbow. Contact her at 626.405.0424.

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thanda spa

private game reserve spa


photos courtesy of Thanda Private Game Reserve

The product line used in the treatment rooms utilizes uniquely African plant and herbal remedies created with indigenous ingredients.

DEEP IN THE INTERIOR BUSH LANDS OF the South African province of KwaZulu-Natal, approximately three hours by car from the Durban airport, is the Thanda (pronounced tanda) Private Game Reserve. In the Zulu language, Thanda means “love.” The name is well chosen, as there is an abundance of love for nature, guests and the environment at this award winning, five star reserve. Thanda is the recipient of numerous travel awards, including a World Travel Award for 2012 as the Leading Luxury Lodge. Thanda’s motto is: “For the love of nature, wildlife and dear ones.” The entire experience at Thanda, particularly the spa, is designed to make you feel the love. Thanda Private Game Reserve is located near the tiny hamlet of Hluhluwe (pronounced shush-louie). It is the perfect blend of Zulu culture, wildlife, adventure and comfort. Game drives in the early morning and late afternoon are conducted in open air safari style Range Rovers, which roam the reserve’s 14,000 hectare (about 34,000 acres) spread. Traveling in open vehicles over dirt paths and bush land leaves one feeling jumbled, anxious and in need of a

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

soothing session at the spa. Seeing cheetahs, lions, giraffes, elephants, wildebeest, Cape buffalo and zebras left my senses in a whirl after the first morning! In a private game reserve, the animals are protected, respected and provided with eco-conscious wildlife management. You have the opportunity to see and be close to a great number of species in a short amount of time. Open air vehicles and dirt trails do, however, take a toll on the body, and I was ready for the next adventure on my spa-fari.

Bush spa-ing

The Thanda Wellness Centre aims to create an atmosphere of peace and tranquility in a natural, relaxed environment. The center includes not only the spa but a fully equipped gym, an outdoor heated Jacuzzi, an outdoor pool with a lovely sala (private deck) and gorgeous views. The spa is very small by most standards, with only two treatment rooms, a steam room and a post treatment relaxation room. Treatments are also offered in the privacy of your villa, and a new massage boma continues • Page 67


The philosophy regarding the youngest spa goers is to create a spa experience that sets the foundation for the adults they will become.

(tent) is scheduled to open in the more rustic environment of the tented safari camp. The reception/relaxation area at Thanda is completely open to the environment, with sweeping views of the reserve’s hills and terrain. A bubbling stream surrounding my natural stone provides the perfect accompaniment to the view, and the thoughtful décor is highlighted with African artwork and handcrafts. The water element is a signature feature of the spa, and it attracts both guests and animals. It is a relaxing place to enjoy a cup of bush tea as you complete your personal consultation and spa intake. The Spa at Thanda Private Game Reserve strives to create an experience unique to the flavor of the Zulu nation and the spirit of Thanda. Spa director and therapist Niru Singh promptly assessed my need for restoration and quickly set me up in a beautiful hydrotherapy bath, complete with rose petals and the sound of soothing African drums. After soaking away the morning’s game drive, bumps and jangles, I was treated to a full body scrub, shower, steam room and massage. A short three hours later I emerged, moving as slowly as the rhinoceros I had seen that morning. Aromatherapy, combined with the completely natural ingredients in the spa’s products, produces a delightful experience for the senses. The product line used in the treatment rooms utilizes uniquely African plant and herbal remedies created with indigenous ingredients. Ancient wisdom is combined with modern formulations to create products, which use ingredients such as shea butter, marula oil and 100 percent natural essential oils. In the hands of an expert therapist like

Niru, the products selected for each treatment are customized to the guest’s personal needs. The spa menu includes a full range of options including hand and foot treatments, facials, body services and massages. The African Goddess Facial is one of the most popular among the safari set, and begins with a prelude to the ritual with a brief series of notes using a Tibetan singing bowl. The treatment begins on the face rather than the back. Only after the back and neck are fully scrubbed, massaged and restored does the facial portion of the treatment begin. A sacred journey for the senses is created with a unique ritual that incorporates cleansing, massage and sound therapy, in addition to the products designed to restore and refresh the skin.

Love for couples and honeymooners

Because of the large number of couples who seek out Thanda for honeymoons or romantic getaways, the spa offers three popular packages designed to nurture the romance of Africa. The Royal Thanda Spirit includes a hydrotherapy bath for two followed by a Romancing the Stone massage. The Spirit of Love is a private aromatherapy journey prepared for the lucky couple. A customized two and a half hour Thanda Honeymoon Retreat is also offered to indulge happy twosomes.

Thanda loves kids too!

The Spa at Thanda Private Game Reserve shares the love of spa-ing with all members of the family, and offers a children’s spa menu. The philosophy regarding the youngest spa goers is to create a spa experience that sets the foundation for the adults they will become. The theme of the menu is “Care-Love-Pamper.” Active children on safari will leave the spa feeling refreshed, informed and healthful. The specially designed menu options include treatments that any young spa goer will find tempting. In the Choco Boo treatment, hands and feet indulge in a chocolate soak, followed by a gentle exfoliation and topped off with a coconut and honey massage. Other options include a Fairy Stone Massage or a Coconut Cocoon massage with a choice of strawberry, bubble gum or vanilla flavor. Oh, to be a kid at Thanda! As I relaxed and chatted with Niru after my treatment, she shared a story about the nearness of the bush to the lodge and spa.

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spa|private game reserve spa

One night after closing the spa, Niru was the last to leave. She had just stepped out of her office when—just in front of her—she spotted a lioness relaxing on the boulders of the water feature. Not a small cub, but a fully grown lioness— perhaps with young ones nearby. Knowing better than to turn her back on another female, Niru slowly stepped backwards into the reception area, managing to reach her office without disturbing the lioness. She quickly called the main lodge and requested an escort from the porters. When they arrived, the lioness departed, but Niru was so rattled by the experience that she had the porter carry her to the lodge on piggyback. Upon hearing this story, it crossed my mind that the lioness was probably simply checking out the ambiance at Thanda and decided it was a good place for a little rejuvenation. If you have ever fantasized about going on an African Safari, having a romantic interlude under an Acacia tree, or imagined yourself dressing like Meryl Streep in Out of Africa, then a visit to Thanda Private Game Reserve should be added to your bucket list. Or maybe you are drawn to the concept of indigenious African ingredients and treatments to implement into your spa. My love for this resort is deeply ingrained in my heart and soul. Sometimes, I imagine the animals and the spa, and whisper “Thanda Thanda Thanda” when I am trying to put myself to sleep. I am transported in my dreams to the heart of Africa and a spa that shares the love of nature and all precious things. n

Patti Biro is the founder and principal of Patti Biro and Associates, a consulting firm specializing in brand enrichment through creative special events, retail consulting and education in the spa and wellness industry. She is a frequent presenter on the national and international trade show circuit. Biro recently completed a Spa-fari in Africa and Dubai, where she visited unique spa venues. For more information, visit or email

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photo: Blend Images/

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the sounds of spa promote healing and reduce stress

MODERN MEDICINE CAN NOW MEASURE and thus confirm the practice of sound therapy as a means to promote healing and stress reduction benefits. This has been shown over the course of many years through numerous research projects in hospitals, universities and private clinical practices on the effects of listening to relaxing music. Every cell within our bodies has their own vibrations, rhythms or cycles, ranging from the nerves that transmit information at a frequency of 1,000 cycles per second to the heart beating 70 times per minute. These natural internal rhythms allow our bodies to respond to musical vibrations. Incorporating sound into spa treatments is a form of energy medicine based on the vibration of sound. When we are awake, the normal frequency of our brain waves is that of beta. Sound tools can train the brain to move into the deeper alpha and theta brain wave frequencies, which induce deep meditative and peaceful states, clarity of mind and intuition. Thus, sound is a type of energy medicine that creates the sacred space where people can heal from stress disorders, pain, depression, emotional roller coasters and more.

The science of sound

Jeffrey D. Thompson, D.C., is a pioneer in the research and clinical use of sound in healing. Through his Center for Neuroacoustic Research in California, he has established a method for using modulated sound pulses for changing states of consciousness for optimal “mind-body” healing. Advanced research equipment such as EEG brain-mapping, heart rate variability,

stress monitors and others are making it possible to precisely measure the effects of sound frequency and vibration healing. Sound chair and table systems and the audio/visual modulator are able to enhance the benefits of uniquely engineered CDs that make it possible to affect states of consciousness for deep stress-reduction, emotional release, advanced healing, mega learning, peak performance, ecstatic states of consciousness, expanded meditation and personal transformation. A zero gravity chair can be offered as a 20-minute stand-alone service, an add-on to a reflexology session or even provided in a group relaxation lounge setting, where guests can unwind before their spa treatment. Facial, massage or specialized healing treatments may be offered on the spa table. This ultra deluxe treatment allows the recipient to hear, feel and even see the same vibrations of musical energy that they are listening to.

Are you playing the right music?

The number one complaint that is so often heard from spa guests is that they disliked the music that was playing during their treatment—or that the music changed from a faster jazz sound to a tropical rainstorm sound halfway through a treatment. Spas often play different types of music in different parts of the spa, as well as a variety of styles of music in each treatment room. Spa owners often don’t consider how the music they play is part of continues

below: a singing bowl is used in services; courtesy of Acqualina Spa by ESPA

by Ronel Corbin

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 71

spa|the sounds of spa The use of tuning forks is based on a system of vibrational sound healing rooted in Oriental medicine and philosophy.

the therapeutic experience and not just ambient sound. The music tempo and selection should be carefully choreographed; this is so that as a guest journeys from the spa reception area, locker room and lounges before they finally end up in the treatment room, the music gets slower and calmer to encourage their mind and body to decompress. In the treatment room, the therapist should be able to select music to suit the guest’s mood or match the style of treatment they are about to perform, whether it is a Thai, Ayurvedic or indigenous local treatment. For example, if your therapists offer reiki treatments, they can actually provide healing reiki music that will play for hours on end without repeating itself. As a spa owner, do not undersestimate the importance of sending your guests home with reminders of their spa visit. Create customized CDs of your spa sounds, which make beautiful gifts for guests who wish to recreate that element of their spa experience at home.

Acupressure sound therapy

at right: acutonics, photo courtesy of Kairos Institute of Sound Healing below: crystal bowls; photo courtesy of Emma Mitchell

The use of tuning forks is based on a system of vibrational sound healing rooted in Oriental medicine and philosophy, which utilizes tuning forks that vibrate at different sound frequencies. Massage therapists and estheticians are able to use the frequencies of these healing tools to apply di-

rectly to acupressure points, chakras, points of pain or trigger points to access the body’s core energetic systems in a noninvasive way. The human body is approximately 70 percent water; our bones and marrow contain nearly 25 percent water, and sound travels four times faster in water than in air. Thus, the human body becomes a natural resonator for sound. It is also a system that can be taught to spa guests to use in their homes for self-healing, and can be received by guests of all ages and health conditions. continues

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #162 on reader service card

spa|the sounds of spa Crystal singing bowls

below: Earth Gong Bath; photo courtesy of Marco Dolce

Listeners typically experience a sense of connectedness and peace as the sound of the gong clears blockages and restores the free flow of vital energy throughout the body.

Crystal singing bowls are made of quartz crystal, making them incredibly resonant. The tones produced by crystal bowls are not just heard by the ear; you feel them in your body, with certain tones affecting your energy centers (chakras) for healing, balancing and meditation. They too are excellent tools for creating natural binaural beat tones, which is an effective way to train the brain in order to treat anxiety and similar disorders, as well as achieve a meditative mental state. The sound is natural, more complex, and some say more pleasant to listen to than electronically synthesized sounds.

Emma Mitchell founded Healing for the Healers Soul in Oahu, HI, where she provides training for practitioners wishing to incorporate singing bowls into their spa treatments. One of the most profound ways to use these bowls in a spa is to work them into a signature service, whether it is a facial or body treatment. Perform the first part of the treatment as you normally would. After the application of a facial or body mask, use the collection of crystal singing bowls set up around the table to allow the guest to slip into the deepest level of relaxation. Singing bowls can also be used for group meditation sessions.

Earth gong bath

Gongmaster Marco Dolce has developed the Earth Gong Bath. It consists of a one-hour immersion in sacred and healing sound, wherein the gong bathes the listener with waves of primordial sound.

During a gong bath, listeners typically experience a sense of connectedness and peace as the sound of the gong clears blockages and restores the free flow of vital energy throughout the body. Some listeners have also described out of body experiences, seeing beautiful colors behind their eyes, along with symbols, images and impressions of past lives. With its ability to induce a spontaneous meditative state, the gong offers listeners access to parts of the mind that are usually closed, resulting in a sense of expanded awareness and higher consciousness.

A touch of sound

A newbie spa guest often lies awake, not knowing when the treatment actually begins or comes to an end. The easiest way to indicate this without making a verbal statement is to make a relaxing sound at the beginning and end of a treatment. Spas around the world do this in a very clever way by sounding a small Tibetan singing bowl or tingsha chime. Spas in the Caribbean and Mexico sound a rain stick. It is quite blissful for a guest be woken up from a treatment slumber with the sound of gentle rain marking the end of the treatment, rather than having a therapist nudge them awake. The use of sound in the spa is endless. The relaxing effect has been proven time and again, and its power to heal and transform should not be underestimated. Besides the use of sound in a private setting in the treatment room, there are countless ways to incorporate the sounds of live drumming, didgeridoos, harps, Native American flutes, Sitars and other indigenous instruments into group mediation sessions or spa group parties to promote or launch a spa. Guests’ faces light up with joy as they are seated around a circle of African drums and led through a drumming session, leaving them with a memory of your spa that will last. n

Ronel Corbin is a Cidesco and Babtac Diplomat, and has been involved in the design, development, pre-opening and operations of countless prestigious luxury spas around the world. She has a true passion for wellness and the ways spas can make a difference in one’s quality of life. Corbin has trained hundreds of therapists and spa employees. She can be reached at

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Guinot’s new Epil Fresh is a post-hair removal product formulated with soothing, purifying active ingredients. The post-depilatory product cools and calms skin, eases irritations, removes wax residue and leaves skin softer and silkier, says the company. It contains antimicrobial properties, and key ingredients include alpha bisabolol and various esters. 212.532.1030


I.P.S. s.r.l. International Products & Services owns an international patent and is a leader in contact thermography, a fast, simple method that can satisfy the diagnostic needs of physicians, beauticians and anyone who performs cellulite treatments. The system detects cellulite in the earliest stages to propose preventive treatments, identify the stage of cellulite, intervene with personalized and focused treatments, monitor progress and check the response to the treatments, says the company. All this can be achieved in a harmless, painless, non-invasive and rapid manner (the thermographic plates need to be applied for just a few seconds). A range of thermographic instruments is available in different configurations according to the type of user: esthetic doctors, beauticians and spa therapists. July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa



Body Armour Skincare is a range of high performance moisturizing creams formulated as a post-treatment regime. Products in the line are ideal for use after an intensive facial, waxing or exfoliation service, says the company. Body Armour Skincare’s gentle, yet effective formulation is ultraabsorbent and boasts a plethora of natural moisturizing ingredients. These include babassu oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, avocado oil and vitamin E to protect, hydrate and nourish the skin.


The latest innovation in face and body exfoliation comes from the land down under! Exfolimate™ is a natural, nonabrasive tool to lift and remove dead skin cells. It can be used before shaving for a smoother finish and to lift ingrown hairs; it also prepares skin for better spray tan results and provides a cleaner base for applying cosmetics, says the company. Exfolimate increases circulation to the capillaries for younger looking skin and easily removes lingering sun creams and oils in the shower.




Address your clients’ most common body imperfections with the new Body Cellular System from BABOR. Women looking to banish stretch marks and cellulite can get closer to achieving the smooth, toned body they aspire to with the three amazing products in the collection. They are formulated with an exclusive 3D Active Complex comprised of hexapeptide-39, forskolin and caffeine to significantly improve firmness and diminish the appearance of cellulite and stretch marks, says the company. The line includes an Ultimate 3D Cellulite Fluid, Ultimate 3D Cellulite Lotion and Ultimate Firming Body Cream. 561.802.6160


Control Shape from Provence Cosmetics helps smooth the skin for a more contoured appearance and youthful look, says the company. Rich in theobromine, it limits fat storage by acting on lipolysis stimulation. Control Shape improves the appearance of skin’s firmness and has a long lasting effect. 877.700.7775


Isola Body is a new line of body scrubs inspired by Jamaica. Infused with a mix of authentic Jamaican coffee and vanilla bean accents, this exfoliation therapy weaves warm aromas as it gently exfoliates the skin in just one use, says the company. Isola Body Scrubs are available in Vanilla Latte and Lemongrass Island blends. They are made with 100 percent natural ingredients and are free of parabens, sulfates, synthetic dyes and petrochemicals. 866.576.4111


Gharieni´s new MO1 Evo relaxation area lounger is equipped with four actuators that can be operated individually to adjust the headrest, backrest, leg and foot support. The lounger offers clients premium comfort with two pull-out shelves, a reading lamp and soft cushioning upholstery with memory foam.

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poor reception

by Nadine Toriello

IN SPITE OF OUR FAST PACED, high tech world of 140 character messages that allow us to instantly share everything from today’s lunch choice to breaking world news, many of us have lost the ability to communicate. This is especially apparent to clients when they call a spa to make an appointment. When asked if there are any facial appointments available, a poorly trained receptionist may simply say no before promptly hanging up. This happens

their way to meet the client’s needs gives the impression that the client’s patronage is not important. Once you have hired the right person for the job, how do you ensure that their cheerful disposition will be an asset to the company? Initially, sit down with the new hire and explain that they are the nerve center of the business, and that their position is an important piece of the “success puzzle.” Unfortunately, other staff tend to disrespect or look down

photo: Andrey Popov/

A script for phone conversations might be helpful to a new hire, so they know exactly what is expected of them when a client calls. more than you may believe, and if you want to build and maintain a successful business, you have to make sure it does not happen at your front desk. First impressions are lasting impressions, so the first impression of the reception center will be a lasting impression of the entire facility in the client’s mind. The most important thing you can do here is hire the right person for the job. You may think that having a gorgeous supermodel look-alike at the front desk is good for the spa’s image, but if she has poor phone skills and is not pleasant, polite and helpful, she is not the right fit. The reception desk is the heart of the business, and the person in charge of it should reflect that. Someone who is neat, upbeat, articulate and ready to accommodate the client’s needs will set the stage for the entire spa experience. On the other hand, someone who is messy, surly, mumbles and refuses to go out of July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

on the person this position. Therefore it is important to let the entire team know that without reception, appointments may not be booked, clients may not be greeted or checked out and retail items will sit on the shelf collecting dust. Creating a script for phone conversations might be helpful to a new hire, so they know exactly what is expected of them when a client calls. Your facility might be breezy and relaxed, while another might take more of a medical approach. Both booking agents should be neat, pleasant, well spoken and accommodating, but each will have a different script based on the environment. Management should occasionally monitor phone calls. Does that mean you should spy on someone? No. Call the front desk and role play as a client. Did the person answering the phone sound happy and ready to serve you? Walk in the front door as a client would and see

it through their eyes. Do you get a welcoming vibe? If you don’t, what makes you think an actual client would? In our fast paced world, guests should encounter someone who is articulate, polite and extends a sincere welcome when they walk into your spa. n Nadine Toriello is the owner of All About You Day Spa in Key West, FL. She is also an esthetician, licensed body wrap specialist and a CEU provider in Florida. All About You Day Spa recently ranked #3 by TripAdvisor as one of the “Best Places to Visit in Key West.” • Page 77

global spa


photo: Phil Date /


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photo: Phil Date /

A change in culture can change everything EVERYONE WHO TRAVELS ABROAD WOULD likely agree that the experience is life changing. We all tend to take our local culture for granted, and we don’t really have any reason to challenge the way we view the world. Until, that is, we are exposed to different societies that move us to question how we conduct ourselves and interact with others. In early 2007, while managing Montreal’s largest urban day spa, I remember feeling eager to explore the spa scene from a global perspective. So I decided to begin my search for a job as a spa director somewhere new and outside of North America. I was not far into my quest when I realized that candidates with recognized credentials are in high demand. All around the world, high-end hotel and spa chains are looking for experienced and established senior spa managers to develop and preserve their interests. After a variety of interviews and offers from a range of different brands, I accepted the role of pre-opening spa director for a facility in Trinidad, located in the West Indies of the Caribbean. Two years later, I was offered the position of pre-opening spa director in Macau SAR, China. Both of these projects consisted of building— from scratch—a spa brand and full team that would be reputable and relevant on a local level as well as internationally. There are specific but similar operational challenges to resolve for each distinct international region in terms of operating permits, construction, transportation, shipping, import requirements and the like. Though important, these issues are expected. Once resolved, they are more or less standard. For me, what stood out most was the importance of understanding subtle but meaningful cultural nuances and being sensitive to customs and traditions. In locations where language is a barrier, it is even more important to be aware of social practices and cultural beliefs. This aware-

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

ness and empathy is essential to understanding your new team, as well as the local target markets and trends. In North America, directors and operators are accustomed to standardized government certification and uniform training for any new applicants. Without certification from a reputable institution, most candidates would not be considered for employment. Yet, in many international locations, training and certification for therapists and service providers varies greatly. Quite often, therapists have no formal education, but have been trained in local healing traditions and customs by family or knowledgeable persons in their communities. In some locations, learning centers exist and offer a variety of apprenticeships in different healing disciplines. Making the shift to areas where this is the case requires immense flexibility and a back-to-basics approach to training and recruitment. A broad understanding of the principles and philosophies behind some of the indigenous therapies is important. It is essential for the management team to properly assess the abilities and growth potential of their technical candidates. While recruiting for our Macau opening, we made day trips to Zuhai, a small city just across the border in mainland China. I met some absolutely incredible therapists who had been taught by a senior staff at their spa or massage center. Even without recognized training, they were very technically proficient. In China specifically, therapists are often well versed in traditional healing therapies such as tui na and gua sha. In tui na massage, the service provider uses range of motion, traction and massage with the stimulation of acupressure points between each of the joints to get the energy moving in the meridians and the muscles. Gua sha is a slightly more aggressive form of treatment. Gua sha treatments typically consist of scraping the back and other parts of continues


business|global spa operations

the body with a wooden scraper or section of cow horn to release blocked energy fields. Gua means “to scrape,” and sha means “red skin rash.” The rash is the result of the gua. You can see why it is a bit shocking to a guest who is not prepared. Bringing therapists with these innate and informally trained skills on board is a wonderful experience. From there, the challenge becomes communicating the importance of essentials like contraindications and what not to do, especially within the setting of a globally established brand. Training needs to be focused on understanding and consistently executing detailed protocols on both customer service standards and treatment guidelines. Here is another interesting example of how essential an awareness and sensitivity toward cultural customs and traditions is to international success. In China, numbers hold special significance. There are lucky and auspicious numbers, as well as unlucky or ominous ones. For instance, numbers six, eight and nine are thought to have positive connotations because their names sound similar

Making the transition to operations management anywhere outside your local environment is an interesting, exciting and enriching experience on so many levels. In order to succeed— both personally and professionally—one must be open to seeing and accepting the world from new angles and perspectives. n

Serena Rogers is the founder and managing director of Nika Consulting, Inc., a global consulting firm specializing in spa projects, concept and brand development. She has developed and managed boutique and luxury operations in North American, Asia and the Caribbean. Contact her at serena@nikaconsulting. ca or 866.833.6452. Visit for more information.

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photo: Phil Date /


to words that have optimistic meanings. When developing the menu, I had not yet been made aware of this, and thus unintentionally included some unlucky numbers for treatment pricing. Our spa manager, who was from the region, quickly explained the importance of revising all pricing to include only optimistic digits, reasoning that “otherwise no one will come to the spa.”

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card

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photo: Yuri Arcurs/



IN PREVIOUS ARTICLES WE DISCUSSED THE IMPORTANCE of three Ps. PERSON. Being responsible for your career and thinking in the long term. PERSPECTIVE. Self reflection and self assessment as a means of establishing direction in the development of your career. PLACE. A company’s culture will make or break your work experience, so you’ll want to do your very best when you find a workplace with the right culture for you. This article highlights the importance of POSSIBILITIES— what you want to do as a next step in your career. We believe that the strategies for managing careers have changed in the last few years. To discover or create career possibilities, you might consider: • MULTIPLE OPTIONS. Moving up is not the only way— perhaps there is a move you can make now that would expose you to a different side of the business. This could help you gain a better position in the future. • ENRICHMENT. Pursue actions that make your job more satisfying. IF YOU ARE SEEKING A NEW SITUATION IN YOUR CAREER, REVIEW YOUR OPTIONS: VERTICAL: Seeking promotion and more responsibility on your current path. LATERAL: Moving to new duties and areas of responsibility, but on the same level. FULFILLMENT: Enhancing present skills and duties by adding new challenges and creative outlets. REALIGNMENT: Starting over or moving to a position with less status. EXPLORATORY: Testing the waters by taking on temporary assignments or projects. RELOCATION: Looking outside of the organization for a better career fit or schooling. Don’t think that career development can only mean promotion. Meeting your own potential and your idea of success for yourself is more important than being promoted to a position where you’ll always be out of your comfort zone, unhappy and ineffective. Fulfillment at work means challenging yourself and your team to get better results in tough times. Spend more time with your most accomplished and engaged staff. Start focus groups of cross department staff to solve problems. Cross train yourself in different departments. Be a more strategic thinker, rather than a task oriented doer. Measure whatever results can be measured, and increase/decrease that number appropriately. We are judged based on what we accomplish. In these times, people are judged on their “objective matrix” (dollars,

numbers and percentages). Hence, the number of workers’ comp claims, staff turnover, guest service scores, staff satisfaction scores, revenue and expenses can all be evaluated. The “bottom line” outcome of the responsibilities you handle becomes even more critical. Being fulfilled and doing your best at work may also mean aligning what you do with the company’s mission, vision and values. Do the job that is needed without the actual title. This can be tricky if you have to jump over others in your department, but if you do your best to improve the most important aspects of your department’s output, you will be noticed eventually. The bottom line is that you must make sure you are accomplishment oriented, rather than just responsibilities oriented. Absolutely know the answer to these typical interview questions: WHY do you do an excellent job at work? WHAT are your specific accomplishments?”

Some successful spa managers, directors and corporate leaders take college courses in addition to working a full-time job. Consider committing yourself to lifelong learning, taking regular college level classes and reading top rated business books and business oriented magazines like Fast Company and Harvard Business Review.

Being fulfilled in your position may also mean becoming a mentor to more people, getting involved with outside professional activities in your community representing your company, volunteering on a spa association committee or for the local non-profit your company has adopted. Figure out what will renew your own energy level at work, and go after those growth aspects. Realignment may mean taking off your golden handcuffs and working at a place or position where you are happier. “Golden handcuffs” is a term defined by Wikipedia as “a system of financial incentives designed to keep an employee from leaving the company.” Perhaps you have to lose your wonderful bonus or 401(k) plan and work for a company with fewer benefits and perks, where you are more aligned with their culture and/or are in a position that will give you the experience you seek for the next step in your career. continues

by Brenda K. Helps and Lori Hutchinson July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 83

business|developing your career to work whenever and wherever they want, as long as the work gets done. The system works because it is a “win-win.” The company ensures that business objectives are met while staff improves their productivity and ability to achieve a satisfying work-life balance. In a ROWE environment, the employer does not make judgments about how people spend their time; instead they focus on the work and what needs to get done. n

Let’s not forget the power of education. Some successful spa managers, directors and corporate leaders take college courses in addition to working a full-time job. Consider committing yourself to lifelong learning, taking regular college level classes and reading top rated business books and business oriented magazines like Fast Company and Harvard Business Review. Push yourself to find the time to include management reading in your normal workweek. Consider the potential value of working with a spa leader who you respect and would like to learn from. Perhaps you would like to align yourself with them? Sometimes it is worthwhile for your career to work with someone you can learn from and go to the next level of management understanding. This is especially true if you determine that you are weak in areas where this mentor could help you achieve a higher level of understanding. If you work full time, you spend more awake time on the job than you do with your family and friends. However your personal life is so important! If you are thinking of making a job switch, you should also spend meditative time considering what type of job commitment you can make, depending on your personal desires of balance between your work and home life. We are seeing a movement toward people choosing an employer based on their philosophy of that very balance. We are aware of a program that some larger companies are adopting called ROWE, which stands for Results Only Work Environment. This is an innovative corporate culture designed to “significantly improve employee productivity, accountability, and engagement.” Under a ROWE employer, employees are empowered

“Man often becomes what he believes himself to be. If I keep on saying to myself that I cannot do a certain thing, it is possible that I may end by really becoming incapable of doing it. On the contrary, if I have the belief that I can do it, I shall surely acquire the capacity to do it even if I may not have it at the beginning.” —Mahatma Gandhi “Without leaps of imagination or dreaming, we lose the excitement of possibilities. Dreaming, after all, is a form of planning.” —Gloria Steinem

Lori Hutchinson worked for 15 years in hospitality human resources management at three properties in California prior to founding Hutch­inson Consulting in 1993. Hutchinson Consulting is a hospitality management recruitment firm. In 2012, Hutchinson founded

Brenda K. Helps has more than 20 years of experience in human resources in the hospitality and spa industries. She has held senior positions in human resources for Miraval, Rosewood Resorts and Fairmont Hotels & Resorts. Throughout her career, Helps has focused on recruitment and training, with an emphasis on career development for all levels of staff. She currently serves as an executive recruiter for Ventikos Associates.

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photo: Yuri Arcurs/

Consider the potential value of working with a spa leader who you respect and would like to learn from. Perhaps you would like to align yourself with them?

WISE WORDS TO CONSIDER: “Never say that you can’t do something, or that something seems impossible, or that something can’t be done, no matter how discouraging or harrowing it may be; human beings are limited only by what we allow ourselves to be limited by: our own minds. We are each the masters of our own reality; when we become self-aware to this, absolutely anything in the world is possible. Master yourself, and become king of the world around you. Let no odds, chastisement, exile, doubt, fear, or ANY mental virii prevent you from accomplishing your dreams. Never be a victim of life; be its conqueror.” —Mike Norton

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #316


Page 86 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013


disrespect DEALING WITH


FEW THINGS IN THE WORKPLACE ARE more stressful than having a disrespectful and disruptive employee, especially when that employee is a valuable contributor to the spa’s revenue. It can present a very difficult dilemma. Do you simply put up with the disrespectful behavior for the sake of the money she brings into the spa? Or do you bite the bullet and do something about it? Whatever you decide, it’s not an easy choice! The good news is that you can do something about disrespectful behavior that hopefully will not only eliminate the problem, but also keep the employee. Here are the steps you need to follow to take back control.

Step 2

Step 1

Step 3

photo: Monkey Business Images/

You must deal with a disrespectful incident as soon as possible after it occurs. It is a mistake to turn the other cheek, grind your teeth and hope it doesn’t happen again. If you do nothing about it, it most certainly will happen again. When left unchecked, it will not only make your life miserable, but also influence the attitudes of your other employees, which can then affect clients. Ignoring insolence from any staff member also sends the powerful message to your other employees that it’s okay to treat the boss badly without any consequences, and it could quickly turn into a “them versus you” dynamic. The longer this continues, the harder it will be to resolve, and you will then have a crisis on your hands.

When time permits, take your problem employee to a private place where there will be no interruptions so you can discuss her unacceptable behavior. Talking to her in the back room where the other staff can hear you or having a quick chat in between clients won’t cut it. This is a very important conversation, and the last thing you want to do is to rush through it or make your valuable employee feel belittled by allowing other employees to listen in. Allow at least 30 minutes, preferably at the end of the day, so that you have sufficient time to talk through the problem and find a solution.

Prepare yourself before the meeting. If this behavior has happened many times in the past but has never been dealt with, make sure to have a list of specific past incidents you can refer to. Avoid general or vague statements. Simply telling them they are “always disrespectful” will not convey your point effectively. Instead, refer to specific incidents where you have felt disrespected. She cannot argue with specific facts.

Step 4

During your discussion, you must address the impact that the employee’s behavior is having not only on you, their teammates, the clients and the salon as a whole, but also how it’s affecting continues


business|dealing with disrespect

The main purpose of the discussion with the problem employee is to find a solution. To achieve this, she must acknowledge that her behavior is sometimes unacceptable.

her), then try to mention these before and after your discussion regarding her poor behavior. As an example, you might want to begin the discussion by thanking her for being such a valuable member of your team and acknowledge her positive contributions to the spa. Once this is said and she knows that you are not going to rant and rave at her, you can go on to calmly discuss the issue at hand. Never raise your voice, and resist the temptation to get into an argument. Simply state the facts of the matter, and don’t allow her to talk over you. Remember that the main purpose of the discussion with the problem employee is to find a solution. To achieve this, she must acknowledge that her behavior is sometimes unacceptable. Ask her how she thinks she could be more supportive and friendly. If you can get her to suggest ways that she can improve, you have almost won the battle. Make every effort not to end the discussion until you have found a solution that works for both of you, and tell her you would like to meet again in a week’s time to discuss how things are progressing. Make sure you follow through with the meeting, and continue to keep the communication channels open by scheduling them regularly. Continue this until the problem is resolved ... or until you find that nothing is improving and you have to let her go. If this eventuates, it is important that you have documented each of your discussions and provided formal warnings to her in writing. Remember, no matter how valuable you believe an employee is to your business, eventually you will find that a disrespectful attitude from them can cause more devastation than it is worth if left unchecked. n

Pam Stellema is the principal coach and founder of SalonSavy, where she provides specialized industry-based coaching to clients through telephone conversations. Stellema has previously owned and operated several highly successful salons, and specializes in maximizing salon productivity and profits. She can be contacted via telephone at 011.617.55296467. Page 88 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: Monkey Business Images/

their position within the business. They must understand what repercussions there may be if it continues. Put aside your emotions and approach the problem calmly. Angry confrontations will achieve nothing, and most likely will make matters even worse. Instead, make sure you tackle the matter in a composed, professional way. This will increase your chances of a positive outcome. After all, the last thing you want to do is to send her home simmering about what you have said, and determined to cause even more trouble when she comes back to work. To avoid this, try to sandwich the “constructive criticism” between some genuine and positive statements. If your employee has other great skills (and she must have if you still want to keep

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #245 on reader service card


skin care

getting optimal results in the treatment room communicate by video conference via our hand held smartphones. Skin care is no different. While the basic objectives in our lives have not changed much over the past century, the way that we achieve our objectives has improved and changed dramatically with the use of technology.

Technology and ambiance

There was a time when the more traditional skin therapist was apprehensive to integrate technology into their business, as they feared that it would change or disturb the ambiance and natural environment of their model. This apprehension existed for good reason, as much of the technology early on was big, bulky and marketed to take the place of the skin therapist’s hands, often with the mentality that “anybody can operate the machine.” As evolution has moved forward, so has the technology available to the skin therapist. Forward thinking skin care tech-

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photo: Dean Bertoncelj/

EACH YEAR I VISIT A MULTITUDE OF PROFESSIONAL skin care shows and events all over the world, making stops in Asia, South Africa, Europe and of course the United States. Each show is unique in its own way, as is each country; however as skin therapists, we have more similarities with one another than differences. Regardless of where you are from or where you currently reside, the life of a skin therapist creates a culture within itself! One of the most profound unified movements that has consistently and contagiously been integrated into the world’s skin care culture is technology driven skin care. What this boils down to is that the traditional “steam and cream” facials are a thing of the past. Today, forward thinking skin care will always include the use of intelligent and efficacious results-oriented technology. Our clients expect it, and for good reason. We use technology to enhance every part of our lives, from the way we cook our food to the way we

business nology manufacturers understand and embrace the fact that nothing will ever take the place of the skin therapist; rather there will be technology that enhances their touch. They also understand that although technology is the way forward, it must be technology that respects the human body at a cellular level, protecting and enhancing the environment of the mitochondria.

low us to communicate on our smartphones. Although the frequencies are all extremely similar, they are unique enough to ensure that a phone call or text message intended for a specific receiver is delivered, and delivered in an exclusive nature. This is exactly how our cells respond to the correct frequencies of microcurrent; they either connect or they don’t!

Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and cellular aging


Adenosine triphosphate is described as the energy of life, as it is responsible for all cellular activity that defines what we refer to as life itself. This includes DNA replication, muscle tonicity, membrane transport, protein synthesis, collagen synthesis, elastin synthesis, blood circulation and repair. The skin, being the largest organ of the human body, requires the highest level of ATP to survive, thrive, regenerate and renew itself. Having said this, the more ATP that we can feed and/or synthesize, the better and younger our skin will feel and look. As with all functions of life, everything works better when we are young. ATP synthesis is no different, allowing us an ample supply of cellular energy in our early years. By the time we reach the age of 60, our ability to synthesize ATP will be cut in half. Without an adequate supply of this vital cellular energy, our body simply cannot keep up with the necessary maintenance required on a daily basis. As a result, the damage and deterioration collectively builds up and presents in the form of aging. In short, the lack of available ATP represents the process of aging itself.

Technology and ATP

Technology that respects the human body is technology that respects the mitochondria and helps to accentuate its activity, as 90 percent of the ATP synthesized by the human body is manufactured in the mitochondria. One of the most profound technologies available to the skin therapist in this category is microcurrent. Specific patented sequences of frequencies used at less than 400 Ua have been proven to permeate the cell membrane and create a proton gradient across the mitochondria, effectively “plugging it in” to an outside source of friendly and usable energy. The result of this patented frequency is an increase of ATP, to the tune of 500 percent! This massive uptake in ATP synthesis allows the body to expedite all cellular functions including muscle tonicity, collagen production, elastin production, glycosaminoglycans and blood circulation. Each one of these functions helps us as skin therapists to achieve our objectives in creating younger and healthier looking skin. However, keep in mind that gaining results with microcurrent is not as simple as applying a low level of electrical current to the human body. The human body is very frequency specific, and as such it only responds to specific frequencies that are delivered in the correct pattern, and combined with the correct energy intensity in the form of micro amps and wave shape. Think of the frequency of cellular waves that alJuly 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LED is another ATP stimulator when the frequency, nanometer, and energy levels are correct. LED has been greatly overlooked in the past, as there are many variations of the technology that do not do it justice and actually dilute its efficacy. Red light and yellow light (590 – 640 nm range) concentrate efforts in the dermal-epidermal junction. Added cellular energy in this area expedites the synthesis of collagen, elastin and blood circulation having a profound effect on the surface, texture and consistency of the skin. Although microcurrent and LED are similar in that they both energize the mitochondria, their mechanisms of action are very unique from one another, such that they make a great partnership when used together. LED has a tendency to have a more rapid result on the outer surface of the skin, while microcurrent is more well known for facial sculpting and deeper cellular improvements that support the “core” of the skin.

Oxygen and ATP

ATP synthesis is an aerobic process. The mitochondria require an ample supply of oxygen that is readily available to enable the “factory” to produce ATP at peak levels. Oxygen infusion technology for the skin therapist, therefore, is very necessary. The ambient air around us is approximately 18 percent oxygen and 80 percent nitrogen. Well manufactured oxygen infusion devices use a technology known as zeolite molecular sieves. Zeolite has a natural property that attracts nitrogen, which in turn allows the collection of purified oxygen. Forward thinking manufacturers have been able to establish a purity level as high as 94 percent, nearly five times more potent than the ambient air. When the mitochondria are exposed to this hybrid supply of oxygen, they react (go to work making higher levels of ATP) instantly, creating an immediate improvement in skin texture, refinement of pores and a consistency in the color of the skin that is second to none. Because of this nearly instant change, oxygen facials are a favorite for skin therapists working with high profile clients prior to being filmed or photographed!

Traditonal and aqueous microdermbrasion and ATP

Although microdermabrasion does not have a direct effect on the mitochondria, it does have a profound effect in assisting microcurrent, LED and oxygen to do what they do best. Both the traditional microdermabrasion and wet microdermabrasion are technologies that safely and effectively remove continues • Page 91

business|technology defined skin care

At the end of the day, every one of us has accepted the remote control, the computer and the smartphone. We have also accepted technology driven skin care.

The stratum corneum is the protector of the skin, and does a fantastic job of absorbing anything that comes in contact with the skin, including vital and efficacious active ingredients. Most studies indicate that topically applied products have a 10 to 15 percent penetration capability. With the use of both applications of microdermabrasion, combined with microcurrent specific iontophoresis, the penetration capabilities jump to 70 to 80 percent. This in itself will make a profound difference in the results obtained with well manufactured products.

Topicals and ATP

New advances in technology have allowed peak ATP to be stabilized in a live form that can be used in oral supplements, and now in topical cosmetic products. Peak ATP is, in short, instant food for the skin. Just as oxygen has a near instant effect in the texture, pore size and consistency of the skin, when applied topically Peak ATP can be used as an outside energy source by the skin, and has an instant effect on its appearance. Peak ATP is an amazing breakthrough for the skin care industry and all consumers who are interested in better, younger looking skin! With the same objective as oxygen infusion technology, Vitacell and Mitostime are two cutting-edge, topical ingredients that have profound efficacy studies on the upregulation of cellular respiration. Increasing the level of available oxygen to the mitochondria increases the productivity rate of the “factory,” which in turn churns out much higher levels of ATP to the

LED facial treatments

tune of a 70 percent increase. This higher level of ATP allows all cellular activities to flourish, including collagen synthesis and protein synthesis that were both noted in their clinical studies. Another near miracle ingredient is ergothioneine. Ergothioneine comes from mushrooms and wheat germ, and has a unique characteristic to penetrate the cell membrane and work its way into the mitochondria. Ergothioniene, unlike ATP, is not produced in the human body, yet it is vital to it, as it acts as a delivery system for essential fatty acids (EFAs) into the mitochondria. EFAs are among the three vital components that the mitochondria require to create ATP, which include an energy source, oxygen and EFAs. In addition to its delivery mechanism, Ergothioneiene is amongst the strongest antioxidants available in the marketplace today. Because of its ability to reside in the mitochondria, it can effectively take care of any cleanup needed from the “factory.” At the end of the day, every one of us has accepted the remote control, the computer and the smartphone. We have also accepted technology driven skin care. In American culture, technology has been more than just accepted; it defines our culture, and has allowed us to meet our objectives more precisely and accurately than ever before. There will never be a replacement for the skin therapist— her touch, her intelligence, her experience and her intuition. At the same time, there is an evolution of natural, intelligent technology that has been created to champion her potential. As a wise man once told me, time only moves in one direction—forward. Technology driven skin care is skin care today. n

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Thera­ peutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. E-mail him at or visit

Page 92 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo courtesy of Bio-Therapeuic

as much of the stratum corneum as possible by simultaneously using the combination of aspiration (vacuum), topically applied hydrating fluids and a range of diamond encrusted abrasive tips. The result is perfectly exfoliated, hydrated and conductive skin. Wet/dry microdermabrasion is a fabulous and effective service used by itself, and also serves as the ultimate preparation when layering other technologies within a service including microcurrent, LED or oxygen. The stratum corneum is non living, dehydrated and minimally conductive, which is not ideal for microcurrent services. In its natural state under magnification, the stratum corneum looks similar to very old shingles on the roof of a house; peeling on the corners and buckling. This uneven surface does a fantastic job of deflecting the damaging rays of the sun, while also deflecting the positive energy of well manufactured LED technology.



Indigena is an Atlantic Canadian skin care company that produces local, rare and indigenous antioxidantrich products. The first Indigena flagship store opened May 4, 2013 in Newfoundland, Canada. Indigena’s most recent collaboration with the National Research Council has given the company a leading edge in the global cosmetic market. “Indigena’s philosophy embraces protecting the environment in all aspects of its operations,” says company founder Lisa Walsh. “Our new store reflects our strong connection to the provincial landscape and its people.” 709.834.4772

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa


PCA SKIN® announced new executive leadership to augment the company’s explosive growth. Doug Abel, who brings 20 years of esthetics, dermatology, specialty pharmaceuticals and medical device experience to the company, is now chief executive officer for PCA SKIN. Chris McCrory, PCA SKIN’s chief operating officer, will remain in the same position and maintain responsibility for the company’s day-to-day operations. A board of directors has also been assembled to augment the new senior leadership. This board of directors includes: • Richard Linder, formerly PCA SKIN’s CEO, is now chairman of the board. • Steve R. Carlson, director. Currently serving as the chief executive officer and president of Apnicure, Inc., Carlson has a 25-year record of building successful pharmaceutical companies, leading brands and creating new products. • Christy Taylor, director. Former chief operating officer of Dey, L.P and chief executive officer of Nelson Professional Sales. With a track record of building businesses, Taylor has delivered substantial sales and profitable growth for numerous large and small companies globally. 877.PCA.SKIN


Wellness Tourism Worldwide, a leading wellness travel business, has launched its new initiative, Wellness Travel Journal (WTJ) — Travel Happy. Travel Well. WTJ is an online platform providing monthly news on wellness travel experiences, vacations and retreats; showcasing destinations, insightful interviews, trends and travel tips for consumers, travel professionals and wellness providers. Wellness Travel Journal editor Camille Hoheb remarks, “We believe the Wellness Travel Journal brand provides consumers and businesses with a great way to connect and engage in wellness travel. Wellness Tourism Worldwide is constantly seeking ways to improve wellbeing and economic growth through travel by helping others achieve their personal wellness goals and professional success.”




NovaLash® Eyelash Extensions introduces the first fully certified lash studio in Hong Kong with the opening of NovaLash Signature Studios. Located in the heart of central Hong Kong, NovaLash Signature Studios provides a variety of lash extension services by specialized stylists using the award winning, physiciandeveloped, medical grade NovaLash extension adhesives and products. “I am thrilled for Hong Kong consumers to experience the NovaLash guarantee: long-lasting, beautiful lashes applied with the utmost safety, all set in a tranquil, upscale environment,” says NovaLash CEO Sophy Merszei. “Our signature studios set industry standards and raise consumer expectations for eyelash extension services, and with the opening of our newest studio we will continue to reach new consumers in Hong Kong and beyond.” 866.430.1261



The products and implements for the very first manicuring course taught in the Kingdom of Jordan were provided by Nailite Inc. of Sunrise, FL. Janet McCormick, an American educator and co-owner of Medinail Learning Center of Chattanooga, TN, taught the course to Jordanians who would not have had the opportunity to learn manicuring and pedicuring without the supplies sent by Nailite. The course was conducted at the Princess Taghrid Institute in Amman, Jordan. This is a non-profit organization established to provide free education in marketable skills for its adult students; it will continue to be offered by the Institute to future students.


The International Dermal Institute (IDI), a global “gold standard” in educational excellence for professional skin therapists worldwide, announces a collaboration with Pivot Point International. For more than five decades, Pivot Point International has been a leader in cosmetology education, training premier industry professionals around the world. Pivot Point International is highly respected for its all-inclusive cosmetology curriculum. This innovative collaboration brings together IDI postgraduate education for licensed skin therapists, and Pivot Point for undergraduate training. The alliance defines a new level of leadership in the education and training of skin therapists worldwide, and includes production and sharing of educational webisodes, booklets, articles and treatment videos through Pivot Point’s online learning system.

Page 94 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

BIOSLIMMING REDEFINES YOUR CURVES SLIM, FIRM AND TONE An Absolute Revolution in Body Wraps! BIOSLIMMING WRAP Helps to reduce 1-4cm (1-2.5 inches) per measured area in only 60 mins*! Dramatically decreases the appearance of fat deposits and cellulite by 47% and helps decrease the appearance of stretch marks.


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98% of women saw improvement of “orange peel” skin with a reduction of cellulite in just two weeks. 98% of women observed a decrease of 1 to 2.5 inches per measured area after one treatment. 100% found the treatment pleasant to have. 97% felt a draining sensation. 93% found that their skin was smoother* (*Clinical Study France, Lyon 2012)

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Jurlique is pleased to announce the appointment of Connie Lim as technical manager of global product development. Lim will drive innovative formula development, provide technical support and monitor performance and key milestones in new global product development efforts. “We are thrilled to welcome Connie and to continue building the strongest team possible under the guidance of Richard Pietz, our global director of product development,” says Mary Beth Peterson, president for Americas and Europe at Jurlique. “By expanding the talent pool within our team, we are investing in the brand’s future, which assures us of achieving our ongoing goal of providing the consumer with the most modern and luxurious skincare formulas that deliver noticeable results, naturally.” Lim holds a Bachelor of Science degree in Chemical Engineering from the University of Santo Tomas in Manila, Philippines, and an MBA from Pepperdine University. Jurlique was founded in Australia. 800.854.1110



Bio-Therapeutic continues to set industry standards, receiving yet another award from Hong Kong this past spring. The bt-nano™ received the Grand Prix de la Beaute for professional anti-aging equipment. The bt-nano mini microcurrent device is smaller than a standard size postcard. It features five facial programs and provides an opportunity for mobile and add-on services. 800.971.6438

Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP) announces the launch of the SkinPro Education Series, an advanced education program for ASCP members. The program is designed to be product-neutral, and is tailored to licensed professionals in four typical career paths, with targeted training and resources for independent contractors, employed estheticians, spa owners and esthetics instructors. “The SkinPro Education Series is a practical way for any esthetician to improve technical and business skills for a successful career,” says Susanne Schmaling, ASCP’s director of education. “We are all very excited about launching this new benefit for our members. It’s all about practical advice based on proven best practices, and all the information can be used no matter what product line or equipment the esthetician has available.” All classes, workshops, and other resources in the series are available to ASCP members at no cost. Online classes are taken at the member’s own pace, with certificates granted on completion of key classes. 800.789.0411

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ancient powers organic & wellness the of cardamom

photo: Gayvoronskaya Yana/

by Lake Louise

C A R DA M O M H A S REESTAB­ lished its standing as my all time favor­ ite spice. I remember tasting it for the first time years ago in a homemade chai tea and instantly falling in love with it. I recently reconnected with this long lost love of mine when I purchased some rooibos chai tea. Now I am drinking it almost daily. Cardamom has such a unique taste and scent that stands apart from its other warming spice counterparts: cinnamon, nutmeg and clove. On occasion I will sprin­ kle a little bit of the powdered version on top of my coffee. I have added the tiny seeds to smoothies and drops of the es­ sential oil into a relaxing bath blend. I have even indulged in cardamom ice cream and baked my own cardamom cupcakes. The uses and benefits seem endless. Native to Sri Lanka and southern India, cardamom is now also cultivated in many parts of Asia and Guatemala. The carda­ mom plant grows in abundance in forests 5,000 feet above sea level. Cardamom is one of the oldest spices in the world, and it is valued for its aroma, pungent taste and healing properties. The seeds and dried, ripe fruits (pods) or cardamom are hand-picked just before they open in the autumn season, and steam-distilled to yield a powerful essential oil. When cardamom essential oil is used in a bath, massage or diffuser, the over­ all scent is pleasing—warm and spicy! Although cardamom can overpower other scents, it blends well with clover, lemon, rosemary, patchouli, ylang-ylang and jasmine.

Cardamom recipes

For menstrual cramps: Due to its anti­ spasmodic action, cardamom can help min­ imize menstrual pain by relieving cramps. To make an effective cramp relief massage July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

blend, mix two drops of cardamom and Roman chamomile with two teaspoons of carrier oil. Gently rub the entire lower abdomen with the oil blend; then cover with a hot compress for relief. For sore muscles: A therapeutic mas­ sage using aromatic oils is a great way to combat muscle soreness. Cardamom oil is known to promote blood flow, which makes it an excellent remedy for stiff and aching muscles. Blend two drops of cardamom with three drops of rosemary essential oil, which also has stimulating properties. Add two tablespoons of carrier oil such as jojoba or fractionated coconut oil. For romance: I call this recipe the Love­ time Elixir bath blend. Certain oils have a long-standing reputation for increasing sexual desire. Both cardamom and ylangylang are among those that can help cre­ ate a spirit of romance. They also have the added benefit of stimulating blood flow. • 15 drops of cardamom oil • 8 drops of ylang ylang oil • 10 drops of patchouli oil Run a bath to a comfortable tempera­ ture. When the tub is nearly full, add the oils. Agitate the water to combine the oils completely. The essences create the perfect environment to surrender one’s senses and feel sexy all over. For nutrition: This delicious carda­ mom and papaya smoothie will transport your clients to the tropical paradise of their dreams. • 4 cardamon pods • 1 medium sized papaya, peeled and seeded • 2 1/2 cups homemade sesame seed milk (may substitute almond milk) • 1 tsp maple syrup or raw honey Directions: Split the cardamon pods

open and scoop the black seeds into the blender. Add the papaya and sesame seed milk, and blend until all ingredients are smooth. Drink and enjoy! Cardamom has been used through­ out history, particularly in the Ayurvedic tra­ dition, to treat asthma, digestive upset, anorexia and kidney stones. Today, car­ damom oil is used to relieve cramps and coughs, alleviate tension, stimulate diges­ tion and romance the spirit. Please note: When using cardamom oil externally, always dilute it first in a car­ rier oil, such as grapeseed or fractionated coconut oil, as it can irritate skin. Also be aware that those who are pregnant or have high blood pressure should avoid using cardamom oil in any form. n Lake Louise is the chief eco-beauty officer (CEO) of Skin, Mind, Body Essentials, a beauty and wellness company that develops brands formulated with active, natural and organic ingredients. These brands include Lotus Moon, Detox Rx, Plain Jane Beauty and SON. Louise applies the principles of sustainability, a passion for whole body wellness and vast ingredient knowledge in all aspects of her business operations. • Page 97

comes with a huge responsibility to communicate informa­ tion that is globally useful and beneficial. The economic downturn hit many spas hard, with overall revenues falling 20 percent. Despite this setback, consumer interest in spas continues, and not just with the affluent baby boomers (those born between 1946-64), who fueled the industry’s initial success and remain committed spa-goers. The industry also now has a following among the younger generation, for whom spas, fitness and well-being are inte­ gral parts of their busy lifestyles. Surveys show that 81 percent of consumers have a strong interest in improving their personal wellness, rather than luxury services that provide pampering experiences. In addition, the spa industry needs to take consumer demand for wellness products and services very seriously. With the shortcomings in the global healthcare system, a shift toward wellness and prevention will accelerate—and it must. There is a rise in sustainable treatments that provide reju­ venation, rest and relaxation. The participation of the preven­ tive/anti-aging industry is also having a decidedly prominent impact on the wellness industry. As the world becomes more globalized, there is an enormous need to educate people about the universe we live in, and how we can thrive with health and longevity. The sharing of knowledge with people around the world is very significant, since this is how we ex­ pand boundaries and unite to improve the quality of life for all.

expanding our boundaries

RAPID GLOBALIZATION, THE DIGITAL REVOLUTION and the largest economic collapse in a generation have served as a wake-up call for the spa industry to redefine it­ self and become more relevant to what people are seeking from spa services. Easy to use digital publishing tools and social networking have enabled the spa industry to reach a global audience across a number of platforms. This storm of technology has turned the spa industry upside down, laying a fertile ground of fascinating new topics to explore. We have been given a unique opportunity to share ideas and experiences in how we are living and perceiving our world. This opportunity


Wellness is a vast industry—and very real, with an extraor­ dinary ancient and modern history on a global level. Little research has been done on this two-trillion dollar market, and there is no consensus on key definitions and benchmarks. Therefore, building a bridge to wellness begins with providing answers and new ways to address questions sur­ rounding an astonishing decrease in health and well-being. A good starting point is to simply acknowledge that most in­ dividuals are focused on productivity, and are pushing them­ selves to physical and mental exhaustion in order to achieve. Establishing a sound platform for how we should begin to redefine products and protocols should be based on the fact that spa-goers are depleted emotionally and physically. As I have traveled all over the world during the past 12 years teaching and learning, I find that most people are looking for a few simple acts of healing that can soften and transform the stress of everyday life into feelings of comfort and hope. Providing a spa experience that allows the consumer to leave feeling restored is paramount.

Translate wellness to the spa

Media technology has connected us to the vastness of the world. We can be plugged in 24/7, which leaves very little time to connect with ourselves. But media experiences impact our well-being beyond personal connection. Advancements

Page 98 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: Blend Images/


Wellness and spa awakening

organic & wellness

The sedative effects of pressure point allow clients to journey to a place of inner quiet and awaken restored and renewed. in medical technology have provided a greater understanding of the human body and how it functions when exposed to media technology. The findings indicate that media stimuli engage the autonomic nervous system, triggering the release of endogenous chemicals such as hormones and neurotrans­ mitters (e.g., dopamine, adrenaline) into the bloodstream. The impact to human physiology leaves the body fatigued, and its systems lacking regulation. Exploring services and products that can reduce stimulation to the autonomic nervous system should be at the forefront. Changing the duration of the treatment, reducing exposure to equipment and utilizing products and manipulations that deactivate overstimulated systems is a good start. Most spa services are scheduled for one hour. It is generally impossible to achieve everything dictated by the standard spa protocol during this duration of time without rushing through the treatment in order to get ready for the next client. This approach focuses on productivity, but does not provide well­ ness for the client or for the service provider! Greater success can be achieved when you offer a variety of select services that are targeted at restoring the body, and provide these services during a shorter amount of time. The goal of a treat­ ment should not be to apply a certain number of products or accomplishing something in particular, but rather to affect the body so that the individual has the experience of feeling well. The other phase of transforming your spa to wellness is to reduce the effects of non-ionizing radiation by reducing the use of equipment. Research is showing that the effects of ionizing radiation (such as far-ultraviolet, X-rays and gamma rays) and nonionizing radiation (including visible light, mi­ crowave and radio) may be undesirable because they can cause DNA damage and mutations—thus we should all limit our exposure to its sources. Extremely low frequency electromagnetic fields (EMF) surround home and spa appli­ ances. Evidence of health effects from EMF, including their influence on the brain, could pose genuine health hazards. Exposure to high levels of nonionizing energy, such as radio wave frequencies, can damage the structure and function of the nervous system. Creating protocols that are more hands on and utilizing products that energize the skin/body is far more effective at supporting the health of the body. Reducing exposure to harmful ingredients is key. Skin care product formulations are currently under revision due to their long-term affects. Omitting ingredients like parabens, propylene glycol, acrylamide, sodium laureth sulfate, poly­ sorbates, etc., all of which have been determined to cause July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

high health risk, would be a proper move as we strive for wellness. There are over 500 ingredients that are currently used in the U.S. that are banned in Asia and European coun­ tries. Adopting the same standard as our global community in banning these ingredients would certainly align our worlds in an effort to be well. As a final point, changing manipulation techniques so they too are focused on reducing stimulation is essential. Each technique of skin manipulation addresses various sys­ tems in the body. The standard effleurage “activates” the circulatory system and “stimulates” the nervous system. In some conditions this technique may be necessary; for in­ stance skin that is pallid due to lack of oxygen, detoxifica­ tion and slack muscle tone. However, if we were to consider that most individuals’ systems are already overstimulated, incorporating techniques that deactivate would be more wellness oriented. An example of one such technique would be pressure point, which deactivates the nervous system, allows the body to go into rest mode and therefore repair. Pressure point is highly effective for reducing inflammation, regulating lymph movement, and reducing facial tension. The sedative effects of pressure point allow clients to journey to a place of inner quiet and awaken restored and renewed. Transforming an industry to be relevant takes time and education. Many spas are becoming a canvas, which allows the consumers to experience an inner retreat where they re­ connect with what the body needs. Services and products should be the inkwells that transform consumers into the best versions of themselves. My own life experiences and learning continues to trans­ late into a healing benefit to others. It is my fervent wish to make these offerings available to all who need them through education. The spirit of my work ensures that we align the world by exchanging ideas, debating and strategizing for the good of our industry, the consumers we serve and the planet we share.
The possibilities are endless. By expanding the boundaries of our consciousness, we can all be healthier, and live more productive lives. n

Anne C. Willis, a licensed esthetician and worldwide leader in holistic and medical skin therapies, is the founder of De la Terre Skincare. She is an accredited skin care instructor and the director of Oncology Skin Therapeutics™, bringing more than 30 years of experience and knowledge to the new generation of skin therapists. Willis is a contributor to The Esthetician’s Guide to Working With Physicians, and has been featured in numerous publications. For more information, contact her at info@ or visit • Page 99

EXCEEDING THE EXPECTATIONS REVIVE AND RENEW IN SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA COMFORT, ELEGANCE AND SERVICE ARE THREE WORDS that come to mind to describe the Westin Chosun in Seoul, South Korea. The hallmark of this property is the level of detail that transforms an average overnight stay into one of discovery, simple pleasures and unexpected experiences. What matters most when traveling for business varies from person to person, but more often than not their priorities include a solid night’s rest, good food, opportunities to in­ corporate health and fitness, ambiance and location. This article speaks to these four key elements in traveling well.

of travelers


Sleep is a universal challenge for travelers, especially on long-haul trips that involve time zone changes that confuse one’s circadian rhythms. The Westin brand takes sleep seri­ ously. While blackout curtains and luxurious beds are com­ mon in reputable full service hotels, the discovery of a welldesigned pillow menu came as a delightful surprise. With a call to Service Express, guests can select traditional pillows from seven different countries. The pillow brochure itself was interesting, and I took delight in reading the descriptions and characteristics of pillows from Korea, Japan, Germany, England, Sweden, Australia and the United States. Because pillows are such a personal item, this service is a gracious ad­ dition to the Westin’s Chosun’s long list of special touches.

Page 100 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photos courtesy of Westin Chosun


organic & wellness

traditional pillows from seven countries

KOREA: Royal pillows JAPAN: Soba (buckwheat) pillows GERMANY: Feather and down pillows with a traditional German pattern ENGLAND: Pure latex pillow (allergy and bacteria resistant) or down pillow with Tartan pattern SWEDEN: Apollo molded pillows that mold to body contours AUSTRALIA: Wool pillows UNITED STATES: Full-length body pillows provide extra support

beyond, exuding an affect that was both surreal and relaxing. On the side of the pool were two large hot tubs, one hotter than the other. The perimeter of the window side was lined with cabanas with flowy white material, chaise lounges and tables. Visually satisfied, I left the pool area with great anticipa­ tion to discover the Korean spa experience. Korean baths are an important part of the Korean culture, and Koreans indulge in these bath amenities often. Soaking or relaxing in a sauna or steam room for 10 to 15 minutes softens skin and prepares it for a scrub. The Westin Chosun has three types of Korean style bath­ tubs: very hot (42 degrees), moderately hot (39-40 degrees) and cold (18-20 degrees). It also offers whirlpools and steam and dry saunas. “There is no specific regimen or order to use them, but typically Koreans like to take a Western shower first and then soak their body in a hot or very hot tub for full-body

An evening tuck-in service at bedtime included a “Good Night” bookmark with a quote from Shakespeare on one side and the following quote on the other: “Sleeping on your right side is the best, your left side is next and then your back.” There were other sleeping tips included as well, such as: “If you work through the night and do not sleep, skip break­ fast and try to catch up on at least half your sleep during the day.” There was also a separate card to help you plan for the day ahead, including details about the weather. The Westin brand was the first hotel chain to introduce the concept of sleeping well to “meet the challenges of the day” through the Heavenly Bed in 1999. With layers of down comforters, a pillowtop mattress and sheets with a thread count of 2,000, the Westin has long since recognized how important a comfortable bed is for a good night’s sleep.

Health and fitness

The Westin Chosun makes it easy to renew and vitalize, to stay fit and focused. While the weather outside was snowy and unin­ viting, I took full advantage of the opulent indoor heated pool and hot tubs. Entering the pool area from the spa and fitness locker area is like stepping onto the deck of luxury cruise ship. A white metal spiral staircase is the lead-in to an architecturally in­ triguing blue-tiled swimming pool, and the water shimmers from a hammered silver wall. An oblong glass ceil­ ing running the length of the pool and splen­ did city views from ev­ ery window give guests the impression of sail­ ing on lovely waters. As I looked skyward from a slow paced backstroke, I noticed frost and melt­ ing snow on the ceiling pane and blue clouds

or lower-body bathing,” explains public relations manager Jooyeon Ahn. “After hot bathing, some people prefer to fin­ ish their bathing in a cold tub.” Walking around and bathing naked is typical and expected.” There were both Western showers and Asian inspired show­ ers, with small stools and handheld showers. I was intrigued by the Korean brand of skin care products named “Beyond,” and a large pile of natural salt for bathers to use. My guess that salt was used as an exfoliator was correct. Some say that it opens the pores for deep cleaning and improves circulation for healthier skin. I grabbed handfuls that I used in the shower to rub on my calloused feet and other areas that were dry from the cold weather, and I found that it left my skin softer and shinier. Clean as a whistle, balanced and revitalized, I almost felt guilty for not using the gym. It’s worth mentioning, however, since it is not your typical ho-hum hotel gym. Newly refur­ continues • Page 101

yogurt, cheeses and a variety of breads. Happy hour in the executive lounge was another treat, and the social setting is designed to encourage guests to come together. With an abundance of hot and cold appetizers, a large selection of fine wines and spirits, evening views of the city and a selection of international newspapers, guests can stop by to unwind, mingle or settle in. After a week of compressed schedules, I found the executive lounge to be a godsend, not only for offering the opportunity to revitalize in style, but also for its multilingual staff, ready and eager to assist with business sup­ port, transportation and travel needs.

Ambiance and location bished with a sleek modern and airy feel, it is designed with three zones for stretching, aerobics and weights. Top-of-the-line treadmills and spinning cycles provide a satisfying workout, but if a guest prefers sun salutations or bicep curls, there is something for everyone. Headphones, magazines, local area maps and bottled water are all at the ready.


Traveling to faraway lands also presents an adventure in food! Under one roof, The Westin Chosen offers six distinct restaurants and dining outlets, including a bustling lobby lounge and bistro featuring European pastries and cakes. The sleekly designed Sushi Cho serves Japanese cuisine, and a very lavishly decorated Chinese restaurant features high-end Cantonese delicacies. There is also a grill with wood-fired ovens for meat and seafood, with the décor of leather high back chairs and dark wood tables, and a buffet featuring a selection of 10 international food stations. It is a great thing to have choices. I found the breakfast served in the executive lounge on the 20th floor to be par­ ticularly well executed. With a stellar view of the bustling streets of Seoul, there was a bountiful spread to suit every taste. Eastern and Western selections included fruit, cereals,

Location and ambiance mean everything when selecting a hotel. Ideally situated in the business center of a thriving downtown Seoul, The Westin Chosun is within walking distance to trendy neighborhoods and renowned historic landmarks including City Hall, Cheonggyecheon River, palaces and Gangnam, the Beverly Hills of Korea made famous by pop singer Psy. In the hotel lobby, a Christmas tree welcomed me, and spar­ kling holiday decorations throughout the property created a festive holiday spirit (this was early December). A permanent installation of a monumental sculpture in the main lobby sets the tone for the ultra modern, sophisticated design and décor of the hotel. With 462 guest rooms, 40 of which are suites, I was delighted to have a suite on the 17th floor with a large window looking out into the winter wonderland of Seoul. With only minutes to check in and freshen up before a business ap­ pointment, I was relieved to see a coffee machine, and made myself a quick pick-me-up cup. Quite satisfying! Later I was able to take in all the room features that offered a peaceful retreat from a busy schedule. A large, well-outfitted bathroom with Westin’s signature Heavenly Bath products, a fluffy bathrobe and large towels were details to soothe, comfort and calm. As day turned into night, I felt quite tranquil and happy. I’ve come to appreciate the personal and thoughtful touch­ es that make traveling easier, more comfortable and enjoyable. The Westin Chosun is a place for pleasurable experiences and good memories. n

Camille Hoheb is the founder of Wellness Tourism Worldwide and editor of the Wellness Travel Journal. She is a speaker, researcher and expert in wellness travel. Hoheb is widely quoted as an industry leader and lectures worldwide. She received her master’s degree in health care administration and holds several certifications in complementary medicine from the National Institutes of Health. Hoheb writes about adventure travel for the mind, body and spirit. For more information visit, or Page 102 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

Lily Herbceuticals™ is an exquisitely crafted skin care product line that detoxifies the skin and makes it look younger. Lily Herbceuticals stays on top of the newest technology developments and uses an exclusive patent pending 3D Tensor Technology™, a delivery system featuring the most advanced new nano-technology that allows products to deeply penetrate the skin, says the company. The complete product line nourishes, hydrates and keeps skin looking polished. 732.738.5550


Ilike Organic Skin Care’s new Grape Stem Cell SolutionsTM line is formulated with free radical neutralizing grape stem cells that restore volume, improve firmness of the skin and speed production of new skin cells for visibly younger, healthier looking skin, says the company. The new line includes a cleansing milk, hydrating mist, polishing scrub, gel mask, serum moisturizer, rich moisturizer, body wrap and body lotion. Products are made with a proprietary blend of grape oil, grape pulp and red grape stem cells, harnessing the power of the plant stem cells for maximum efficacy. 888.290.6238


The Bright Eye Gel Cream from Nature Pure Labs® is the ultimate brightening and anti-aging eye treatment! It promotes healthy cell renewal, improves skin elasticity and diminishes the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and dark under-eye circles, says the company. The formula of kojic acid, green tea, hippophae berries, gotu kola and horse chestnut firms, smoothes and lifts skin to reveal radiant eyes! 866.640.SKIN

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The professional products from the Termale line by Domina® Skin Care originate from the vibrant Mediterranean and are designed to provide an experience of complete body well-being. Natural oils and butters are expertly mixed with precious essential oils to make each treatment a relaxing and rejuvenating experience that creates the perfect balance between body and mind, says the company. The line consists of massage oils, scrubs, butter creams and Dead Sea muds. 888.998.0722




Ascenta Skin is a new oral beauty supplement that nourishes, repairs and rejuvenates the skin’s deep dermal layers from the inside out to reveal a more even, healthy complexion. The ingestible oil has a natural pomegranate flavor, and is formulated with EPA, DHA, GLA, zeaxanthin, lutein and vitamin D3. Combined, the ingredients work to repair and rebalance the inner layers of skin to boost elasticity, increase firmness, restore skin, reduce roughness and even skin tone, says the company. 866.224.1775


The Hydra Floral MultiProtection Collection is the latest from Parisian skin care and aromatherapy powerhouse, DECLÉOR. The three newly reformulated products are dedicated to protecting and moisturizing the skin for up to 24 hours. Each cream features hydrating and protecting active ingredients. The new products include the 24-Hour Moisture Activator Light Cream, 24Hour Moisture Activator Rich Cream Ultra-Moisturizing and Plumping Expert Mask. 888.414.4471


The Monoi Age Corrective Night Body Cream from Éminence Organic Skin Care is a rich body moisturizer for normal to dry skin types, particularly mature skin. This night body cream delivers youthful skin all over with an exclusive anti-aging stem cell complex and plant-derived hyaluronic acid. Skin appears denser, firmer and smoother from head to toe, says the company. 888.747.6342


Africology, the leading luxury skin care line in South Africa, is now available to select spas and retail outlets in the United States. The eco-friendly products are blended with pure essential oils and indigenous medicinal herbs—free of parabens, petroleum and artificial fragrance. Key ingredients are South Africa’s indigenous healing plants, including rooibos, aloe ferox, marula and African potato to maintain a truly authentic African offering, says the company. Africology prides itself in being committed to fair-trade, respecting the planet and supporting local communities. 573.826.9577

Page 104 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

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YOGiiZA, Organic Clothing for Organic People™ is a new liflestyle brand of eco-friendly exercise apparel for men and women. The collection includes two styles of yoga bras and panties as well as fashionable skinny leggings, hot shorts and tops for women. For men, there is a martial arts inspired yoga pant, performance briefs and organic cotton yoga inversion shirt. YOGiiZA continues to expand its brand presence through partnerships with luxury hotels, customized yoga programs, retreats and wellness consulting, says the company. 305.397.8930


EpiCalmnin TCM is a star ingredient in BIAO Skincare, as it combines three plants used in traditional Chinese medicine. The herbs found in EpiCalmnin TCM can produce extraordinary changes in the skin, says the company. Effects of these herbal remedies include reduced inflammation and increased protection against bacteria. They are believed to be capable of strengthening the natural defenses within the skin. 800.775.9079


Glycolight Night Contouring Bi-Gel by Phytomer is designed to limit excess fat storage at night and promote better fat elimination upon awakening. This nighttimespecific product targets fat cells while you sleep, says the company. Key ingredient sea absinthium slows down the formation of new fat and enhances the elimination of existing fat. 800.227.8051


Bio-Logical Cosmétiques, a marketer of natural beauty products based in France, has announced the launch of their brand, Bio-Logical. Bio-Logical fills a void in the marketplace by offering affordable, French-manufactured certified organic skin care solutions based on ancient botanically-derived remedies, says the company. The products are formulated with high-tech ingredients presented in modern, luxurious, high-quality and conscientious packaging.

Page 106 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013


hot and humid beauty

by Noreen Young

LOOKING GOOD ON A BALMY, drizzling day of rain or humid weather takes work. While we love to give our clients makeovers, retailing is an important component to the success of a business as well. Clients need us to share our tools and tips with them. Do you offer a collection of glamour and beautification tools? At my business, we love helping our guests look good everywhere, from the head, face, hands

derful brands that offer an SPF lotion with a touch of minerals. They keep the skin protected and looking awesome. For lasting eye makeup and foundation, eye and face primer do work! They give the makeup staying power. Asian rice powder is an ancient beauty secret that works well as a lasting tinted moisturizer or to set makeup in humid weather. It gives the complexion a pretty, longer lasting matte finish in

4 5

Teach your clients that lip stains and lipsticks last longer on the mouth in sticky, rainy weather than glosses or lip balms. Lip liner really does make lip color last and stay in place better in hot, humid or rainy weather. and toes. Here are my top 10 beauty secrets to share with your clients. For limp hair in humid weather, recommend a strong hold hairspray, and retail volumizing shampoos and smoothing serums to address frizzy ends. Also, suggest refreshing hair with dry shampoo. This works wonders for humid weather hair. Suggest a D.I.Y. recipe for your clients, telling them to sprinkle their hair with baby powder and brush through. This method also addresses excess scalp oil. In cloudy, rainy weather or gloomy days, we all could use a pick-me-up of color. Color your client’s world with a bright new lipstick and blush, or add a touch of shimmer to her complexion. This gives the skin an instant glow, and the addition of color makes people feel good. Remind your clients that even on cloudy or rainy days, they need to wear a sunscreen. There are some won-


photo courtesy of Noreen Young

2 3

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

seconds. I use it for television and photo shoots, both indoors and outdoors. Men appreciate the benefits of this ingredient as well. Blotting papers are excellent for taking away that shiny or rain drenched face. They can come with powder on them, or sometimes plain blotting papers have aromatherapy infused. I love that I can take care of shine with just one blot and a hint of citrus or lavender scent. Teach your clients that lip stains and lipsticks last longer on the mouth in sticky, rainy weather than glosses or lip balms. Lip liner really does make lip color last and stay in place better in hot, humid or rainy weather. Cream based eye shadows and blushers do not last as long as powders. Recommend mascara that “tubes” the lashes instead of paints them. This type of mascara does not run, clump or

6 7 8 9

smudge. It is a big hit in inclement weather, but it is also great for everyday makeup, ladies who “hot flash” and bridal parties. This summer season is all about color and colored mascaras. Rock her eyes gorgeous with a green, purple or blue hue. Nail lacquers are center stage now; however they take longer to dry and can smudge easily in humid weather. Show your client how she can brush some jojoba over the nail bed on fingers and toes for setting after you have allowed the polish to dry. My manicurist taught me this trick and it works. Rub jojoba into and around the cuticle area after the nails dry; nails will dry faster and skin will look healthier. Your clients want to look good even in bad weather. Have them singing in the rain with these beauty tips and tools! n


Noreen Young is a makeup artist and sought-after speaker in the salon/spa beauty industry. She has worked with designer Diane Von Furstenberg, actor Martin Short and many sports professionals and other celebrities. Her experience includes work on Larry King Live and several television networks. Young released a makeup and skin care DVD entitled, Diamonds Aren’t a Girl’s Best Friend … Makeup Is! For more information call 904.739.2560. • Page 107

teaching and training abroad empowering the world through professional volunteerism


begin to resource three months prior to leaving, and companies were generous and helpful, even enthusiastic, about sending everything I needed, even implements and paraffin baths. This made my training easier, and the students went home with better experiences and everything they needed to start basic salons. It was awesome to train with this support, and I enjoyed it through 2004 for every class (nails, skin care, massage). I was grateful, as were the students, and I thanked the companies in articles I wrote about these experiences. The classes changed the lives of many of these students, and I still hear from them.

Help—I need (free) products!

Unfortunately, the recession hit, and, understandably, companies had to reconsider expenditures. I could no longer provide free training outside the U.S. for lack of products and equipment—I couldn’t afford to provide them myself. Then, last summer the Princess Taghrid Institute in Amman, Jordan, contacted me to teach a class, and I was hoping things had changed. After some thought and research, I said yes, and began resourcing products. I called product and implement companies, but unlike before, I could not get past the phone rooms, and people did not call me back. One week before I was scheduled to leave, I began to feel like I must cancel, but I called Lisa Rillo, owner of Nailite in Fort Lauderdale, FL. Alas, she came to the telephone immediately. I didn’t think she would be interested because her company is a supply company, not a product company, but I was wrong. One

Page 108 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo courtesy of Janet McCormick

TRAINING ABROAD IS NOT A NEW PRACTICE. The United States is the innovation center for artificial nails, skin peels and many other products, and other countries have looked to us to purchase them. The companies who sell these products send trainers to other countries, and that is a great job to have. These trainers are employed by the company, so they receive a salary in addition to having all their expenses paid—and they usually stay in nice hotels. These perks are well deserved, as the work they do is difficult and exhausting. But what about when a professional is training abroad to help people? This “give back” training is usually offered free of charge by those who wish to improve the lives of others in impoverished areas of the world. The giving-back training scenario is very different than foreign training for a company. First, in give-back situations, there is usually no pay, although sometimes a sponsor does provide compensation. Usually, in charitable training scenarios, everything for the class must be resourced by the trainer. Companies are researched and called for the supplies and whatever is needed for the classes, with many wanting the opportunity to help make a difference and give back. That was true in the late 1990s and early 2000s, when I trained many times at a mission in St. Vincent and the Grenadines of the Caribbean. I would


minute into the call she enthusiastically told me to get back to her the very next day. When I called her the following day, she said, “Nailite wants to do this! Send me a list of what you need and I will get it to you.” Because of Nailite’s generosity, I had everything I needed in three days. “Nailite is proud to support the training and to aid in empowering women around the world. It is vital that women have every opportunity to succeed and provide for themselves and their families in this ever changing world,” says Rillo. Nailite has been in business for 25 years and supports the education of their product to all nail technicians. Lisa Rillo understands empowerment. She is a nail technician who reached out where she knew there was a need and built Nailite Inc. She is one of us, and I would assert that she understands our profession.

Princess Taghrid Institute, Amman, Jordan

The story about this Institute is unique, starting with the donation of a palace in Amman by His Royal Highness King Hussein in Amman before his death for the support and education of abandoned infants and youngsters. They are taken into the palace, where their needs are met until they are grown and ready to leave, usually in their early 20s. Then several years ago, Her Royal Highness Princess Tagrid (the wife of King Hussein’s brother and aunt to the present monarch, King Abdullah II) established a non-profit school, the Princess Taghrid Institute, to assist these young people in starting a productive life in the local community after leaving the palace. The Institute trains them in many skills, and one of them is hair design. At present, 16 are in the class, ages 15-23. These were my students.

Why train in Jordan?

Presently, all manicurists are brought into Jordan from the Philippines by salon and spa owners. The owners must pay for the manicurists’ application, visa and transportation to Jordan, and then pay for their apartment and expenses while they live there. Then after two years (the length of their visa), they must pay for the manicurists’ return to their country; and the spiral begins again. Not having manicurists is not an option; hand and foot care is very popular in Jordan. But no manicuring schools exist there, so the hassle of bringing foreign manicurists over is what they have had to do until now. However a new nail school is now starting at the Institute. I went to Jordan for five weeks to aid the Institute in training their current beauty students in manicuring and pedicuring, and to support them in starting a nail school. The salon and spa owners are excited, as are the Institute and its students. The Institute’s manicure graduates will have jobs when they complete school, and the salons and spas who hire them will not have the huge outlay of fees to bring manicurists from other countries and then pay for their departure later. The nail school will also be a source of income for the Institute by attracting outside students to the course. As a non-profit facility that always needs more income to meet its mission, this will be a great help! How is that for a five week trip? I was exhausted! July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa


Know what you are getting into

One of the most important points on training in other countries is that you must know what you are getting into. You must investigate the culture, where you will stay … everything. How do you greet a person in the country? Male, female, anyone of the opposite gender? How do you dress? In Jordan, most women cover their legs, either with slacks or skirts. Some countries require more coverage. What about transportation? The Institute provided a car and driver to and from the school, and palace guards transported us in a black Mercedes between the Dead Sea and the airport, and pretty much wherever we went after school hours. That was pretty cool! Before you go abroad to train, you must verify that Americans are safe in the country you are planning to go. We continually hear horror stories about bizarre crimes that happen to Americans in other countries. Always check the State Department websites for useful safety and other information. See sidebar above. Take heed of all tips and any precautions. If you look on the map, Jordan is surrounded by Syria, Iran, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Israel, Palestine and Lebanon. So initially, I wasn’t really confident about our safety in that location. My sister, who travels with me and plays a crucial role in my training, had friends who lived in Amman. They were Americans who had been there for five years full time and five more part time. We talked to them about safety. Our friends assured us the Jordanians are U.S. friendly, and that safety is not an issue. We trusted their recommendations and accepted the opportunity. I still had some trepidation—I always do whenever I go out of the U.S. But after arriving in Jordan, the advice of our friends was easily confirmed, and we quickly learned to love Jordan and Jordanians.

Go early

To those who travel overseas, I suggest training. Get to the destination a few days early to recover from jet lag as much as possible. Jet lag is real, and it can drag you down if your metabolic body clock is changed by moving through time zones.

The first 10 minutes

The scenario is pretty much the same in all countries when an American trainer first walks into the room. The students are very quiet; they stare at you as if you have four eyes. There continues • Page 109

image|teaching and training abroad

is no shuffling, giggling, texting or whispering. Just silence ... and staring. That soon changes, but those first 10 minutes are tense. They have no idea who you are—most have had no exposure to Americans, and have heard stories about us that may or may not reflect poorly on the trainer. Sadly, they look at you initially more as “an American” than a teacher. But after the class starts, they soon begin to respond to whoever you are as a person or trainer and become friendly and pleasant. On several occasions I have had the amazing experience of having a student or person walk up to me and shyly say, “I love the USA,” then turn around and walk off. That choked me up. Most foreign students prize certificates from an American trainer and treat you with special respect. I always present certificates of completion to the students from my training company, Spa Techniques.

The biggest problem: language barrier

You may not have a common language with your students. Even if the language is supposedly English, you may not understand their dialect, and they may sound like they are speaking another language. Everything takes much more time when you don’t speak their language, even with an excellent interpreter, which I had in Jordan. You smile and try sign language; that’s just a part of teaching in another

country, but it can become frustrating. There were several occasions every day in Jordan that I wished I could speak Arabic, and the students wished they could speak English! Going to other countries to improve lives through training is one of the most rewarding things I have done as a beauty professional. This humaniarian effort is needed throughout the world to offer professional skills and services to women facing horrific poverty. Look to community services and churches, and organize a missions trip that will not only enourage individuals overseas, but provide them with employment opportunities in our wonderful industry. n

Janet McCormick is a CIDESCO Diplomat, certified medical nail technician, trainer and a former spa director and salon owner. She has written more than 400 articles for beauty industry magazines and books. McCormick is the co-owner of Medinail Learning Center, a provider of modular online and school courses about safe techniques for nail technicians. She can be reached at or 863.273.9134.

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Page 110 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

Before & After


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What brings you in today? What do you want to enhance? What are your areas of concern? These three questions are the foundation for Dallas based makeup artist La Tonya Pinon’s guide for creating a dialogue with a client and understanding what she wants. Pinon discovers what type of makeup goals would be most helpful to her client. For a client with skin of color, you can stay true to her ethnicity as you accentuate positive features or conceal the imperfections she wants to mask. For example, the almond eye shape of Asians or the under eye darkness of Indians are features that can be enhanced or masked with makeup. Clients with skin of color need an excellent color match for their foundation, the base layer of makeup. From brown, red, orange, yellow, olive and grey, your client’s skin tones may vary (they may have a darker forehead and a lighter cheek area). The undertones are not always what you would expect in our ethnically blended society. Working with skin of color provides the artistic opportunity to blend and use multiple colors. Pamela Springer, founder and executive director of The Skin & Makeup Institute of Arizona, emphasizes the importance of blending between one and three colors to achieve a seamless color match.


1. Begin by identifying the intensity of the skin tone. Is your client’s skin light, medium, dark or deeper in color? 2. Determine the undertone of the skin. Look at the veins on the underside of your client’s forearm for clues. If the veins appear more blue, your client likely has a pink, cool undertone. If the veins appear more green, your client likely has a yellow or golden warm undertone.


Page 112 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

photo: Blend Images/

1-2-3 color matching for skin of color

image 3. Blend your colors using a brush or sponge to apply them down the side of your client’s face, between the ear and chin and along the jawline. The color that best matches is the best fit for your client.

COLORFUL EYELINERS AND COLORED MASCARAS ARE GREAT TOOLS FOR QUICKLY AND EASILY UPDATING A LOOK. THE BEST WORD TO DESCRIBE THE MAKEUP TREND TODAY IS VIBRANT! Practice, practice, practice. The more you start color matching your clients and seeing which foundation color works best, the better you will be at this art. Eventually you will be able to look at your client and know exactly what color to blend for a perfect match.

Pops of color

photo: Africa Studio/

Once you have found the foundation, the fashion of the season comes into play. Summer 2013 is all about great color and being playful. Colorful eyeliners and colored mascaras are great tools for quickly and easily updating a look. The best word to describe the makeup trend today is vibrant! BLUSH: Provide a hint of color with a clear base. Highlight your client’s bone structure with a bronzer, offering a light shimmer that blends into the skin. EYES: Line with a contrasting color, drawing attention to the eyes. Blue, pink and green work well. Use a neutral eye shadow like bronze, gold or mocha. Dark brown eye makeup can give dark eyes a more sunken look. LIPS: The palette is open. The darker the skin tone, the darker you can go for lip colors. Neutral lip colors that match the skin tone blend the facial features into one. Use a different tone to avoid matching the skin exactly. For clients with a lighter lower lip, apply a darker lipstick to the lower lip and cover both lips with the same color gloss. Enjoy the variety of colors and help your clients discover the best products to achieve their makeup goals. n

10 makeup pointers for skin of color from a pro

Alejandro Falcon, artistic director for Osmosis Skincare shares his top tips 1. Use good skin care to keep the skin hydrated; it will help prevent an ashy or gray appearance. 2. Use a sun protection product, especially on the forehead area so that it does not become darker than the rest of the face. 3. Reiterate the importance of not picking at acne breakouts. They can scar and become difficult to camouflage. 4. Encourage the use of eye creams to keep the area under the eyes from becoming dryer or darker. There will be less to conceal when applying makeup. 5. Select a foundation that will work well with the skin type. 6. Find foundation with warm undertones for those skins with a bronze or terracotta tone. 7. Use bright colors for eye shadows to make the eyes stand out. 8. Fill in brows to frame the eye shape. 9. Find blushes with deep, rich colors. These colors blend better and appear more natural on skin of color. 10. Bright or deep lip colors with some rich or metallic glosses can help make skin of color look fresh and pretty, especially if natural makeup is used on the eyes.

Austine Mah is a licensed esthetician, NCEA certified professional and ITEC beauty specialist. She serves as managing editor of PCI Journal and is a regular contributor to a variety of publications. Mah is president of Austine Inc., a consulting firm for the beauty industry. Contact her at 310.926.9266 or visit July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 113

Exotic NAILS

from around the world

Nail designs: (clockwise from top left) Cleopatra design by Bojana Kostka; snakeskin design by Catherine Wong; design by Bojana Kostka; design by Oksana Bilous


nail artists from around the world are pushing the boundaries of traditional nail enhancements. Come journey with us as we explore exotic new lands …


Our first hop is to southern England in Gilling­ ham, Dorset, where we catch Sam Biddle between classes. She has been doing nails since 1999 when, she shares, “I ended up in the industry by accident. I loved wearing nail art and I needed models to practice who became clients in the end.” Biddle spends her time traveling internationally, teaching her Be Inspired class series. She innovated “Velveteen Nails” when she became intrigued by a crafty friend who was doing embossing. After much research, she came up with the qualities needed to apply this concept to nails, and a new product line was born. The nail is etched lightly where the velveteen will be adhered if gel is to be used to apply the fiber. If topcoat is to be used, this step would not be necessary. Biddle suggests that her Velveteen nail embellishment would be a 5£ (about $7.75 USD) additional charge, and she would book an additional 15 minutes. In addition to traveling the world teaching her Be Inspired class offerings, Biddle has gathered nail art supplies for her Be Creative line, including a nail art pen, foils, Swarovski crystals, her Velveteen fibers and her private label acrylic paints.

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa


Next we travel to Italy, where Oksana Bilous owns Vanity Nail Art School in Rome. After 10 years in the nail industry, she has taken her amazing talent as an artist and created a business teaching others. She also has formulated her own nail art paints called Morocolor, and has trademarked the term “micropiturra,” which means miniature portrait, to describe her incredible serigraphic

art on nails. Bilous shared with us her sketch of a form she designed to create elongated and uniquely shaped nail extensions. In July 2010, she launched her squared-off nail design on Facebook and a Russian nail forum. Several other artists have since been inspired create their own versions of the shape. “I entered the nail world because of my passion to paint on small areas, but I have always thought a beautiful shape and a nice presentation are necessary as well,” Bilous explains. “My search to maximize the impact of the overall design led me to exploring shapes, and imagination did the rest.” continues

“I entered the nail world because of my passion to paint on small areas, but I have always thought a beautiful shape and a nice presentation are necessary as well.”


Amazing, innovative and imaginative • Page 115

image|exotic nails

As a busy academy director, Bilous no longer books individual appointments. If she did, she would charge 30€ per hour (about $40 USD per hour) for a set of nails.


A set of extraordinary nails like these butterfly “blades” takes about two days, and costs 100€ (about $132 USD).

Meet Bojana Kostka from Kruševac, Serbia. She owns a beauty salon named Harizma, which translates to “charisma.” Kostka provides a number of beauty treatments in her salon but loves doing nails the most because it leaves her the space to be creative. “I am the first person to start doing nails in my city, among the first in Serbia. It was a difficult time for me and for my country. There were no material distributors. There was no one who could show me how to do nails. There was no Internet!” With the help of friends and clients who traveled abroad and brought her back supplies and ideas, Kostka has taught herself and now posts her amazing nail creations on her Facebook page. A set of extraordinary nails like these butterfly “blades” takes about two days, and costs 100€ (about $132 USD). Kostka’s usual specialty nails take between five and seven hours, and she charges 30€ (about $40 USD). Sometimes the appointment is done in two sessions. In Serbia, the usual rate for a simple set of nails is 3€ (about $4 USD).


Next we visit Chisinau, Moldova, where Tatiana Litvinov has spent more than seven years honing her talents as a nail artist. She originally studied economics at a university, and pursued a career in the nail industry against the advice of everyone she knew. Although all the naysayers argued that the nail industry would be no career for her, Litvinov has become a sought after international educator,

competitor and nail technician at her own nail salon, Nails by Tatiana Litvinov. One of her innovations is something she calls “embroidered nails,” created by applying tiny bullion beads in precise arrangements on acrylic nails. “My inspiration was the Fall-Winter 2012 collection of Dolce & Gabbana, which was full of embroidery on clothes,” she explains. “I was watching the collection and thought that would be awesome if I could make this on nails. One day I found the way by using those tiny beads! These nails would take about one and a half hours to do stiletto sculpts and about one and a half hours to do the design.” Litvinov would charge 800 lei (about $70 USD). 

Republic of Singapore

At our next stop, we meet Catherine Wong, found­er and director of education for the Ecsalonce Inter­national Nail Aca­demy in Singapore. An international champion competitor and educator, Wong is passionate about helping her students Page 116 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

image|exotic nails

build dreams and empowering them in their nail careers. “I became a nail tech­ nician over 16 years ago by default because I wanted beautiful nails to wear. I became fascinated with the idea of wearable art.” One of Wong’s innovations is using actual snakeskin that has been processed and dyed as an embellishment for nails. “Since this is the lunar Year of the Snake, I was inspired to use snakes in some way,” she explains. “Being a nail tech and mentor has given me the opportunity to travel the world and experience the joy

her passion with her when she moved back home, and has since been a pioneer in the Australian nail industry. One of Markakis’ innovations is a service she created over a dozen years ago that she called Bling Nails. She regularly attends trade shows in the U.S., and came across pots of holographic glitter on one of her trips. Her love of all things “bling” led to embedding these brightly reflective pieces under gel on fingers and toes. Markakis’ new service swept through Melbourne and across Australia, and it is still popular today. Markakis spends most of her time training her students at the school she founded. “My students always look forward to the days we learn bling techniques,” she says. “They know they have to have the basics of proper nail structure in place before the bling begins!” Markakis would book an hour and 15 minutes for a full set of gel bling nails and charge $95 AU and $60 AU for “bling toes.” AU is approximately equal in value to U.S. dollars.

One of Wong’s innovations is using actual snakeskin that has been processed and dyed as an embellishment for nails. “Since this is the lunar Year of the Snake, I was inspired to use snakes in some way,” she explains.

United States

of learning, teaching and sharing my skills.” Although Wong no longer takes clients, she explains that in Singapore, it is very popular for brides to “spend a fortune on their nails for their special day and photo shoot … upwards of 400 SGD.” SGD stands for Singapore Dollars, which is approximately $300 USD. An appointment would last about three hours.


Heading down to the Southern Hemisphere, we encounter Jenny Markakis, owner of Fantastic Nails & Beauty Training Academy in Melbourne, Australia, who first learned to do nails in New York City in the mid-1980s. She took

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

We complete our trip around the globe in Thou­ sand Oaks, CA, where we find Lucien Henderson, founder and CEO of Em­ power Nail Art, just back from a training event for nail techs who are learning to use his “solid film nail coatings” to create stunning art effects on nails. Henderson, who is not a nail tech, came from the semi-conductor industry. During rehabilitation from the loss of a leg when hit by a car, a friend introduced him to the nail industry and told him to start doing homework because she needed him. “I got hooked on nails,” he shares. Henderson’s keenly honed marketing, social media and salesmanship skills led to international branding, but “along the way I got frustrated by the limitations of the product—I hated saying no to nail techs all the time and I wanted to find a product that would let me say yes! So I went looking.” continues • Page 117

image|exotic nails

“As an expert in solid film nail coatings and as a business person, I wanted a film that could do anything I wanted. I systematically searched to find a material which was specifically made for nails.” -Lucien Henderson, founder and CEO of Empower Nail Art

This completes our trip around the world, exploring amazing work by truly gifted artisans who have a passion to share their skills not only with their clients, but their fellow nail technicians as well. n *Photos courtesy of the respective artists. “As an expert in solid film nail coatings and as a business person, I wanted a film that could do anything I wanted,” Henderson explains. “I systematically searched to find a material which was specifically made for nails—that had the same limitless creativity that polish offers, which required no special tools and an application method that is intuitive. I couldn’t find one, but eventually I got one made.” Henderson says nail techs can embellish nails using his Empower Nail Art fabric in as little as a few short minutes. He recommends an added charge, according to the complexity. He used scraps of leftover material to make this graphic design.

Karen Hodges is a licensed esthetician and manicurist with more than 15 years of experience. She is a freelance writer, and has spoken around the globe as an industry educator and public speaker. Hodges does consulting and training in salons as well as on a one-on-one basis with individuals. Arrangements for classes, speaking engagements, web-based or personal training can be made by contacting her at

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #225 on reader service card

Page 118 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

by Stacey Graham


enduring beauty in full bloom

Blossom Beauty Lounge, Redondo Beach, CA IF THE SELECTION OF NEARLY 1,000 nail polish colors and over 800 gel polish colors aren’t enough to make a girl swoon over the unique Blossom Beauty Lounge in Redondo Beach, CA, perhaps the eco-friendly polish, intricate fixtures of the salon and utmost attention to detail and cleanliness will. Cammy Nguyen, the dynamic owner of Blossom, left no stone unturned when she designed her dream salon. She came up with the idea when she realized that while there were nail salons on every corner in her town, they were all

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lacking the “newest” colors—and forget about fast service! As a trained nail artist and esthetician, Nguyen spent months seeking out the exact light fixtures, pedicure chairs and nail stations to make her very first salon perfect. Ultimately, Cammy created the “ultimate experience for nail art and cleanliness.” Specializing in permanent makeup application, eyelash extensions and nail services, the goal at this elegant salon is to let every client feel as if they “blossomed” as they leave the beauty lounge. From the second a client arrives and is

greeted with a sweet treat or beverage, the salon provides a sense of relaxation. With an extensive selection of makeup services and nail treatments, there is a treatment perfect for every client and every budget. At Blossom, all nail technicians are trained professionals who practice the most intensive sanitation and disinfection procedures. Using new, disposable liners in every foot spa tub and new, disposable files and buffers with every client, no corners are cut when it comes continues • Page 119

image|enduring beauty in full bloom

to cleanliness. All metal instruments are sanitized between clients as well. Professional makeup artists are onsite to guide clients through the latest tips, trends, techniques and color recommendations designed to enhance an individual’s sense of style and beauty.

Nail therapies are designed to relax and revive tired hands and feet as well. Eyelash extensions are one of the hottest new crazes in makeup services. They are putting this salon a “length” ahead of everyone else. Women can now achieve beautiful eyelashes with a personalized custom service, applied by professionals in the comfort of the salon’s relaxing treatment room or exclusive massage chair. Perfectly designed eyebrows, gorgeously enhanced eyes and sensual looking lips last for several years rather than merely a day. They are now a reality thanks to Nguyen’s vision and expertise. Permanent cosmetics allow busy people to look their best at all times. n Blossom Beauty Lounge was first established in 2000, and opened the doors

of its current location in April of 2012.

Photography by Dom Greco Photo Stacey Graham is the owner of SGPR Group. With well over a decade of experience in the public relations industry behind her, she has successfully represented brands, professional athletes and businesses. Graham’s passion for maximizing every opportunity to expand the knowledge of a product, person or service drives her to reach for the ultimate outcome for her clients everyday.

Page 120 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013


Custom Nail Solutions has launched a custom nail product that truly innovates. The removable, resusable and indestructible nail system is completely personalized for all women. Women value their hand and nail beauty on a personal emotional level, says the company. Become one of the facilities that offers women an exclusive customized nail system that has been unavailable to them until the creation of patented nail beauty! 817.416.7788

AU NATUREL AUSSIE Encourage your clients to go au naturel the Aussie way with makeup from NVEY ECO, enriched with nourishing properties that use organic and plant ingredients, infused with natural botanical extracts, antioxidants and vitamins A, C and E.

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa



The Eye Pencils from Osmosis Skincare feature a creamy, quick drying formula, with a soft-gliding application that goes on smoothly without any drag or skipping, says the company. The water resistant formula has long lasting wearability, and can define a lash line or create a smudge for a smoky look. 877.777.2305

TWO-STEP PROCESS The all natural Raw Mascara from Earth Lab Cosmetics is produced in a two-step process that helps key ingredients retain their nutritional value, says the company. The waxes are melted down separately from other key ingredients. Once soluble, components such as aloe, cucumber and rosemary are added in without being cooked at high temperatures. This process creates a mascara with a silky smooth application that easily separates lashes without clumping, flaking, smudging or running. 888.245.0024





The ultrathin liquid eyeliner pen from blinc boasts a brush of only 0.01 mm, the most precise brush available in the cosmetics industry, says the company. This enables it to provide the thinnest, most exact line possible, allowing for unparalleled versatility. The blinc ultrathin liquid eyeliner pen cannot fade, smudge or run, even if tears are shed or eyes are rubbed. The ultra fine brush provides for extreme accuracy, and can create virtually any look, from a thin classic line to dramatic, winged looks. The thin brush also makes it possible to add intense black color as close to the upper and lower lash line as possible! 877.454.7763

Tricoci University of Beauty Culture (TUBC), a beauty school with campuses in Illinois and Indiana, is expanding their cosmetology and esthetics courses to include the Kryolan Professional Make-up line in kits for advanced training in theater, film and special effects professional makeup. Kryolan Professional Make-up is a threegeneration manufacturer for film, television, photo, fashion, video and special effects that originated in Berlin. “There is such a big opportunity for theater makeup and hair artistry and we wanted to give our students the opportunity to gain some fundamental knowledge of stage and special effects makeup,” said Brian Weed, CEO of TUBC. “The need for special effects artists is in high demand and this is a growing field for our graduates.”


Volumize lips with the four new shimmering colors of the anti-aging XXX Lip Plump SWELL BLISS from Rouge Bunny Rouge. Hues ranging from invisible rose to pretty pink, peach or heather create an outstanding shiny brilliance with an immediate and prolonged “bee stung” effect, says the company. Lips look super glossy and feel incredibly comfortable!

Page 122 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013



Massachusettsbased lash artist Katie Kapoutsos is so talented at bringing lush lashes to the masses that she was selected as the NovaLash fan favorite lash artist in 2012. Now, Kapoutsos has another accolade under her beauty belt: a pick from renowned wedding website,, in their “Best of Weddings 2013” bracket. Kapoutsos’ application of individual eyelash extensions brings the luxurious look of longer lashes to beautiful brides all over the Boston area. Every bride loves the weightless, feathery lashes and the way that wearing them eliminates the problem of mascara mess on her wedding day. Even better, the lashes stay luscious throughout the honeymoon. “We are incredibly proud of all Katie has accomplished in her career,” attests NovaLash CEO Sophy Merszei. “She is a true talent, and any woman—bride or otherwise—would be lucky to have her as their lash artist.” 866.430.1261

July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa


The Ecocert® certified Makeup Removing Cream from Fleur’s cleanses the skin and removes makeup while preserving comfort. Formulated with gorse water, shea butter, cocoa butter and sunflower oil, it gently soothes and softens the skin, says the company. It removes traces of makeup and impurities easily without harmful ingredients. 877.353.8777


The Just Kissed Lip and Cheek Stain in Forever Pink from jane iredale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP® creates dewy, long lasting color for lips and cheekbones. The nondrying, natural stain adjusts to an individual’s chemistry with an irresistible pink shade that flatters every unique undertone, says the company. Wild rose wax, olive butter and avocado butter nourish, soothe and soften lips and cheeks with each use. 800.762.1132 • Page 123




Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Alternate Therapies by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities.

Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. Distance learning available. Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424. HydroPeptide Product Training Seminar by HydroPeptide.Webinars held Mondays at 10 a.m. PST. Laser and Light Therapy by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. Medical Esthetics by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities.

Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Scleroderma by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities.

Page 124 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013

West Central East International

Treating Acne in Skin of Color by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities.


Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Anchorage, AK. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Anchorage, AK. 877.PCA.SKIN. July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.



Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Anchorage, AK. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN. • Page 125


CALENDAR OF EVENTS Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Discovering Bio-Therapeutic Hand-Held, Accent and LED Technologies (Webinar) by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.


Bio-Ultimate Platinum Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.


Bio-Brasion Trinity Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.


Bio-Oxygen Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.







Bio-Synthesis Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Riverside, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Riverside, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Walnut Creek, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Walnut Creek, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150. Alternate Therapies by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 12 p.m. C.S.T. Laser and Light Therapy by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities.

Page 126 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013


Medical Esthetics by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. Scleroderma by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. Treating Acne in Skin of Color by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities.


Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN. July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa


Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. St. Louis, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. St. Louis, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Advanced Chemical Peels With Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150. Alternate Therapies by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. continues • Page 127


CALENDAR OF EVENTS Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4.

Scleroderma by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities.

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.

Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference Skincare. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150. Laser and Light Therapy by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. Medical Esthetics by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150. Treating Acne in Skin of Color by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education.

201.670.4100. online-ce-activities. Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities.


Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Page 128 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • July 2013



Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Buffalo, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Buffalo, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.



Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. July 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

National Esthetic Teacher Training Sponsored by NCEA Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) September 28, 2013 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) October 26, 2013 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2013 September 29-30 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013 October 27-28 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2014 April 6-7 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2014 May 4-5 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2014 September 7-8 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2014 October 19-20 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229 • Page 129

advertisers’ index Page Number

Reader Service No.

5................. A Natural Difference................................................. 232 73............... Athena Beauty Inc................................................... 162 8................. Beautiful Image....................................................... 183 69............... Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... 180 60............... Bellaire Industry...................................................... 189 21............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... 140 6,39............ Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... 139 19............... BioBliss.................................................................... 173 42............... Biomani................................................................... 276 95............... Bioslimming............................................................ 335 63............... Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... 101 132............. Darphin................................................................... .159 89............... DermaSwiss............................................................. 245 110............. Dr. Jeff..................................................................... .248 34,66.......... Dr. Schrammek........................................................ .166 25............... Edge Systems........................................................... 201 2-3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. 157 131............. Equipro................................................................... 242 51............... Hairmax.................................................................... 285 31............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... 278 7................. Innovative Skincare................................................. 240 14-15......... International Congress of Esthetics and 26-27......... International Congress of Esthetics and 13............... Lady 119 11............... Le 294 105............. Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic .263 35............... Meg 21/ 344 85............... Nature Pure Labs.................................................... 316 118............. Palacia Beauy............................................................ 225 9................. PCA 110 81............... Rejuvi 149 17............... Satin Smooth........................................................... 304 110............. Skin 283 62............... Sranrom................................................................... 207 111............. Wishpro................................................................... 339

*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242

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