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MORE THAN NATURE
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Meet
the world’s
Smallest church Gipir & Labong
“A spear in the elephant”, splits brothers for good
BIRDING
OUR RICH CULTURE
TRAVEL
10 most sought birds of Uganda
The royal transport glamour
Queens and Presidential suites in untamed wilderness
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Sights and Jingles
SmallesteetChurch the world s
smallest Apart from its jaw-dropping beauty, the hill boasts of what could be the smallest chapel in the world, standing at a height of 8ft and a width of about
By Solomon Oleny There are times when you visit a place and it turns out to be a disappointment. Biku Recreation Centre, situated on Biku Hill, 18km from Nebbi town, is not even close to such place. Apart from its jaw-dropping beauty, the hill boasts of what could be the smallest chapel in the world, standing at a height of 8ft and a width of about 2.5metres. The place of worship can only accommodate three people, including the preacher. I will always remember the way I sweated behind the steering wheel as I carefully drove through the bumpy narrow road leading to Biku from Nebbi. Together with Mubiru, a colleague and Godfrey, a friend, we were on a UN Programme-mission to rediscover Biku. The damp and heat of February 28th 2015 seeped through my suede jacket, causing my pores to unleash rivers of sweat that soaked my T-shirt. But I was grateful for the fresh air. It was cooler inside the car. Every progress of the journey drove us to more scenic sights and sounds of the valley rivers along the corridors of Nebbi’s rolling hills. Sylvester Ochopi, the caretaker, walked to the parking lot to welcome us to rest in the shade surrounded by lush flowers. He told us that the centre’s history dates back to 1996, when Pastor Song, a Korean, together with his Lordship Henry Luke Orombi, the retired Archbishop of Church of the Uganda, founded it. “The centre’s ministry is focused on spiritual healing for individuals and church groups. It is hoped that those who come here will be able to meet with God in a special way, receive a vision for their future and to become bold soldiers for the gospel,” Ochopi explained.
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Arguably the worlds smallest church
“Africans like to be on the move, so it was felt that providing nine prayer points would create a comfortable setting for people to pray, praise and meditate on God’s word,” he added.
The hike to prayer points ho n ed us o he rs climbing challenge destined for prayer point one, which sits on the highest peak of the hill. None of us had climbing gear, but the hiking challenge turned out to be only half sd ul ho h d exaggerated a bit. We made it to the peak within 15 minutes. At the top, we found a big cross at whose feet four pilgrims were meditating on the Lord’s Prayer. Opposite was Prayer point two, a Lilliputian building constructed in remembrance of Jesus Christ. To its eastern and western walls are 12 windows reminiscent of the 12 disciples.
grims in of two pil n o ti a g a congre nt leads A celebra church. e mass at th
a holy
Ochopi said it is at this prayer point that pilgrims pray for Uganda’s neighbouring countries namely Congo, Rwanda, Sudan, Tanzania and Kenya, for spiritual revival and peace. We got a splendid panoramic view of the roaring Namrwodho Falls, which is home to rear bird species such as the shoebill.
Overlooking the falls are the rolling hills in the Democratic Republic of Congo, whose border is w h n w l n d s n e ro u. o n o r yer o n hree w s l le d ul be use he slope was steeper. Many a time, we literally sprang from one spot to another downwards, only to step on fresh dung of baboons or step on sharp pointed rocks. This point was built in the shape of Africa and has two entrances. The building has 10 windows symbolic of the 10 commandments, on which people can meditate while here. It is purposed for praying for all African countries, especially Islamic countries.
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Wild ue
Tracing
Kanye West’s
Ugandan foot steps hree spacious terraces, fashioned into outdoor sitting arenas make for an enthralling invite. ach designed to help guests e plore refreshment, health and also, satisfac tory spiritual rela ation. y Caroline Ariba
U
ntil pictures started sauntering in, instantly sending a wave of e hilaration across the country, rapper, Kanye est s visit was but a rumour. ot even a video of the rapper naming ganda among the countries he would be visiting was believable. ot in the wake of fake news, no ir. ut alas e came. e saw. e e plored and it was surreal. illiam lwoch alobo, proprietor of eritage oliday afaris provided the ground transport, and he was Kanye s tour guide for the day. e gladly re traced Kanye s ourney through the wild, step by step.
The beginning
At 11am, on aturday, 1 th ctober, the guards at akuba Airport in the heart of ganda s urchison alls a tional ark, would receive news of the arrival of eminent guests. 0 minutes later, four planes would touch ground, one of which was a presidential et. Kanye est, his socialite and reality star of a wife, Kim Kardashian and their daughter orth est, emerged out of the presidential et. ith them came a 50 man entourage and a vitality that could only be e pressed in the gan dan wild. o this day, if you ask, alobo will main tain that Kanye was definitely seeking inspiration. e didn t even have any
sort of plan, he ust wanted to connect with nature, alobo begins uite empathically. ut the lions, the buffalos, the cats really, these were definitely a must see. hat would define the game drive, or as they call it in the wild the trucking route. alobo would take the esus alks rapper through ueen trucking route, a path bursting with variety. o see the lion, had to take the route which has mating kobs, he e plains. Chances that you will see a lion here are very high. hese grounds, also known as koblets, often attract many kobs, a specie known to be easy to be prey for the lion.
ut before the kobs, Kanye and team would spot the ackson Arch beast, which the Acholi people the tribe that hosts the park , call Apura. t was the very first animal they would see, as a matter of fact, and uickly, the shy animal would run off into the wild, as if to alert the others. omething wasn t uite right, not for the controversial rapper, at least. e needed ust the right music to set the gear in motion. n the middle of his game drive, he re uested that stop and that a member of his entou rage oin him, alobo narrates. e wanted his ob arley music he specifically want ed to draw inspiration from the song, uffalo
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soldiers. nce they brought the ob arley music, alobo recalls Kanye insist ing that the bravery and fighting spirit line, be replayed several times. e loved that part so much, and coupled with the energies from the wild, he seemed to get really energi ed, he recalls.
Emotions run wild t wasn t the buffalo that set pace for the most emotional stop of the day, albeit very essential to the trip. t was the elegant giraffe that did. According to alobo, in the heart of the game drive, they would come across a tower of at least 25 giraffes. A beaming Kanye would uickly ump out of the truck, drunk in the wonders of the gandan wild, and run towards the tower of giraffes. is face was filled with emotions
and he was ust full of energy alobo recalls. e hoisted the daughter shoulder high, alobo re counts e pressively. A fa ther daughter bond oo ing through every second was displayed for the wild to see. e started running, actually sprinting, so he would touch the giraffe. es, Kanye wanted to touch a giraffe, and he wanted that for the little est as well. oon the entire crew, made up of not ust family, but security and producers too, were running along. e wanted to touch it. e wanted his daughter to also feel it. Kanye had definitely come to bond with nature, alobo adds. And the giraffes, elegant as always, scam pered away making for what looked like an animal print runway.
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The royal transport glamour Occasionally they carried it by hand especially if the king in question had a fright for landing hard on the ground
By View Uganda
T
oday, transportation is no longer ust about getting from point A . Comfort takes center stage. or that, the means one uses matters. sually, Kings use the best there is by virtue of their status. istory has it that the case wasn t different in ganda prior to colonialism. hen, itters were the in thing for kings. or those who have been living under a rock, a litter is a class of human powered transport operated the same way as stretchers. ypically, most took the shape of an open chair or bed sheltered by single
doored umbrellas made of plant fiber or leaves. hey were supported by two parallel handles made of hardwood that don t break easily, like mahogany. pon these ends, the king would be ferried by two or more sub ects depending on his weight. hough most sub ects preferred placing the carrying poles upon their shoulders as it was effective. ccasionally they carried it by hand especially if the king in uestion had a fright for landing hard on the ground in situations where porters miscalculated their strides or slid. ainly used among the ima, ru, Kiga and unyoro Kingdoms, litters were in two types. ne for the rainy seasons and one
The king using litter transport
for the dry. hile the shelter of the former was usually thatched tightly to prevent easy penetration of water. he latter was made of colourful hand woven reeds. o ensure that the King got the best litter there was. owerhouse artists in the kingdom were usually tasked with designing the most durable and colourful samples. rom their collection, the best was picked. n appreciation, its maker was awarded with cattle if from a pastoral tribe. f from a farming tribe, they were usually awarded with chunks of land upon which till. n comparison to the kings, the ueen s litters were more airy with small compartments where their snacks and necessities would be kept. All said, the culture of using litters was legendary. t deserved to be preserved for eternity. adly, things didn t work in its favour when the wind of change
swept through ganda following its coloni ation in late 1 th century. he influ of ritish colonialists ushered in automobiles which could travel at blinding speeds. his wasn t the case with litters as it was powered by human labour, and thus wasn t time saving when it came to travelling far and fast. or that, many Kings left it in the past and moved on. eferences ribal crafts of ganda by argaret trowel and K. raunholt ango i kara acon ango before colonialism , ather Angelo arantino
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“A spear in the lue elephant”, splits brothers for good Legend has it that around the 15th Century, each Luo family had an ancestral spear it held a very strong attachment to. It was a symbol of leadership and authority.
By Solomon Oleny
S
hortly after driving past akwach ridge, a giant channel that serves as the gateway into the est ile region, the first thing one sees to their left side is a concentration of dilapidated buildings. hese are workers uarters of the now defunct ganda ailways Corporation. ight behind them is ang lee , a bushy spot at the uiet banks of the Albert ile. t is here that the uo brothers ipir and abong separated around 15th century after blood thirsty hatred shattered their once harmonious relationship. nsight into the eparation egend has it that around the 15th Century, each uo family had an ancestral spear it held a very strong attachment to. t was a symbol of leadership and authority. As culture demanded, it used to be passed from by the head of one
The g ipir le ge
ing sw eads be b l a y o The r hter. ’s daug Labong
e d by th allowe
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spear
being
throw n tow ard
s the
eleph ant
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lue falls as you paint its beauty. Each of these is angled in a way that will blow you away or rather leave your head bustling with ideas. And then there is the statue. It’s a four dimension statue designed to illustrate how the execution used to happen. Standing at its North, you’ll see how the victim was dragged to the edge by her brother at the orders of bitter elders. In her brother’s eyes, you would see someone struggling on the inside as he is emotionally attached to the beloved soul begging for mercy before him. All this while, she would be h n o se hersel ree wh le cursing the pleasure that left her heavy with the baby. From the East, you would see her plummet through the air before landing on the rocky bottom of the falls. The force with which she would land was always so strong for her to survive. From the West you see the arrival of the missionaries who came preaching positive change and further ushering the turning point of Kisisizi by putting up a hospital for the community. Where locals and would be victims of the practice would be nursed and attended to as they gave birth. What particularly moves most visitors about this statue is how it embodies distinctive
the attraction. The curb is likely to cost you at least 40,000sh. Be sure to carry with you clothing for cold weather, Kisiizi’s weather can mean to be so nerve wrecking sometimes. One that boasts of infrastructure that grace tourism sites. That can only be Kisiizi falls. A history about it being one of the execution arenas where
qualities a statue stands for. WOW-factor, durability, ability o e or lessly ell s ory. The project was primarily sponsored by three parties who initiated it in a bid to heighten s ro le n b d o ener e funds from the hospital. The Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities, South Korean Government and well-wishers of the hospital. Ooh, I almost forgot to mention that there are community visits too and medical tourism at the hospital. Travel tips At the moment, there are not so many facilities at the site as it is a newly emerging destination. However, the few that are there do not disappoint. Accommodation costs roughly 20,000sh. In other words, if you wants to invest in Tourism, you can’t go wrong with this attraction. The big news is that our s r o he l e s increasing as it is among the key projects Government is marketing. For the budget traveler, bus fares to Kisiizi costs roughly 30,000. At the moment, there is only one bus that makes direct trips to the site. If you miss this one, don’t panic. You can still make it by boarding a bus that will drop you at …., the last main trading center from which one can pick a curb leading to
Bakiiga girls who got pregnant before marriage breathed their last. It is structured in a way that one can carry out a self-guided tour. Right from the main roads, here re s n os s o o er direction all the way to the site. Better still, most of the game have instructions at their feet.
Front vie wo the backg f the statue with K round isiizi falls in
t –Front pper righ the U , e tu a of the st zi falls in Side view statue with Kisii e th view of
The muse um
constructi on in Late
2016
e site ring th lo p x e s ist tic tour Domes
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excursions not miss when in Destination
Uganda
t s perhaps because of these gifts that we are labeled the earl of Africa. y olomon
U
leny
ganda is a gifted country across all fronts from our diverse culture, our delicious gourmet foods to our creative yet entertaining traditional dances. ur welcoming, warm, receptive people make ganda stand out of the lot. ganda s uni ue, unpredictable, great weather makes us the best place to find yourself on this rock we call earth. t s perhaps because of these gifts that we are labeled the earl of Africa. owever, among the gifts we possess, our holy trinity food people dance makes ganda the most ideal country to visit. ganda is renowned for its diverse food species that sit on tables daily. estau rants knit these food species on their menus because they are hugely de manded by many people. hat makes these foods special hey vary with different cultures. ach part of ganda seems to have its special foods that
which, furthermore, makes the country the place to be especially if you love treating your palate right. rom the central region, astern region, orthern region, estern region to the outhern region, food varies by geography and culture. hese are a mi ture of nglish, Arabic and ndian influences. n the other hand, the dances and traditions too vary with different backgrounds and regions. Central Uganda he central region of ganda which is predominantly uganda is synony mous with foods like uwombo. t s an indigenous stew that is made of chick en, mushrooms, fish, beef, g nuts, and well wrapped in banana leaves. ou will love it. ow do you eat uwombo on t sweat it uwombo is best eaten with bare hands. imply wash your hands and sit through this dish which is e pertly wrapped hence forming a bow el like form. or a yummier taste, it is accompanied with atooke, a starchy
type of banana which is harvested green and mashed into a meal. t s a delicious combo that goes beyond turning on your appetite it gives the tongue a tickling sensation. As culture demands, you will see aganda women kneel down while serving it or any other food. Kneeling in this part of the country is considered an act of respect for people and submission. t is partly for this reason that women greet anyone senior to them on bent knees. he only time their men kneel is when they are greeting the King, locally known as Kabaka. uwenda utebi is the incumbent Kabaka. uwombo is served in most restaurants in the central region. o downtown of Kam pala and ask for uwombo from one of the restaurants and you will have it for an average of 2 . hey also serve it in the upscale restaurants of Kampala for an aver age of 8. herever you chose to have it, tag along with an e uivalent of the men tioned money in gandan shillings. ost restaurants only transact in local currency. he payment mode is cash, the culture of
transacting using credit cards hasn t yet picked up. ust as food is music to the palate, music is food to the soul. n the central region, the commonest dances are called aakisiimba, ankasa and uwogola. All of these entail wiggling one s waists vigorously like they are possessed by spirits. hese traditional folk dances originated from the palace of the Kabaka over 200 years back. he key in strument used to fire them up is a long drum made of tough skin, of python snakes. hile grooving to them, dancers drape co lourful ra as around their waists to flirter the movement of the waists. ately, such danc es are being revolutioni ed by mainstream artistes like ebe Cool, avio, A i A ion, et al, who have created songs to appeal to the youthful populace of ganda. Eastern part of Uganda he eastern part of ganda is famous of alewa. f you are looking for a fantastic lunch food that will keep you going till the ne t breakfast, you ll be sorry to miss this meal. t is made from smoked bamboo shoots and always served with matooke or
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Wild Quest
most sought BIRds of
uganda
T
hanks to its location along the e uator tropics, ganda is one of the top countries in the world that o er birdwatching excursions of a lifetime. xcursions that make travellers come alive, leaving them with sweet memories. xcursions that will ush stress out of your system and put a smile upon your face. Solomon leny brings you the top most sought birds of this beautiful birding paradise, ganda, that boasts of recorded bird species.
1.Shoebill-picture by Archilles Byaruhanga It is not served well by good looks. or that, you wouldn t expect this prehistoric bird to be on this list. uess wha !!!! It is not only on featuring but actually topping it. amed a er its massive bill which takes on the shape of a shoe, it has an unmatched perfection at fishing. his is thanks the sharp edges of its mandibles which help in decapitating prey. Its life expectancy is years, just like the average gandan. hat makes this specie distinctive? It has been around for over , years now. Imagine a bird that has been around since the times of King Pharaoh of gypt. Sadly, this birds population is being wiped to extinction by fishermen. hey associate it to being a bad omen to their fishing expeditions. ccording to ature ganda, there are less than , of them le in ganda.
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4.African Green Broadbillpicture by Johnnie Kamugisha
Wild Quest
Where it is found Swampy areas and shallow lakes like abamba Swamp, ugogo Swamp in iwa Rhino Reserve, ake lbert, the lower ile in urchison alls Park and ake buro.
2.Black-breasted Barbet o tourist in their sound mind state is comfortable visiting war torn countries. mong the few countries that have this species, ganda stands out as the most peaceful. he other countries that have it is Central frican Republic and South Sudan. It s plumage is mostly glossy black, with a red belly and a white patch on lower back. here to n
t
Kidepo alley ational Park
reen re ste Johnnie Kamugisha
cture y
hough this species is not endangered, it takes more than luck to find it. It has a broad golden bu supercillum. ccording to erbert yaruhanga, a veteran birdwatching guide, what makes it so had to come by is that it is uiet for much of the day. In instances when it wants to communicate, it whistles so ly, sometime so so ly for its own ears to hear. s such, one has to scan every inch of the forest canopies before finding them. ven with this maximum concentration, you might still not find them as they have black and green plumage that facilitates their carmou age. ou have to pay extreme a ention to detail before finding it. It is one of the fewer pi a species found on the continent. here t s oun It strictly lives at an altitude between , and , meters. Kibale ational Park is the only reliable site where you ll find it.
amed a er Rudolf rauer, a erman zoologist who collected natural history specimens in the elgian Congo, the reen roadbill is largely bright green with a blue throat and a small bill. It is threatened by deforestation and habitat degradation. It feeds on seeds, fruit, ower buds, and some insects. he species which
was first discovered in , was never to be seen until . he broadbill also ranks among the five most sought a er species on the continent, especially because it is rare. any birders are a racted to it because of its cheerful character. It has no room for boredom. It shivers and trembles in excitement for much of the day while twi ering s ueakily. here t s oun It is endemic to the lbertine Ri ountains of ganda and emocratic Republic of Congo, like Rwenzori.
5.Great Blue Turaco- picture by Johnnie Kamugisha It is the only bird with some of their feathers colored by pigments found in no other creature in the nimal Kingdom. hat was the answer I got upon asking ill homson why seeing the great blue turaco was one of his top three moments during a birdwatching tour around ganda in .
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Wild Quest ccording to the K based author of ird atcher s igest, an internationally famed birding book, the beauty of the turaco cuts across to its call as well. t dawn or dusk, you will hear it give loud series of deep, ringing, throaty kok kok kok or a bubbling so er tweet. e spoke with so much passion before adding it is agile at jumping from one branch to another. he only times you ll find it on ground is when it wants to bathe or uench its thirst. engthwise, it is cm in and , g in mass. his makes it a biggest in the turaco family of birds, a reason it is highly poached in frica for its meat here t s oun It is mainly found in pristine tropical forests and swamps inclusive of igodi wetland, abira and udongo.
he ey s r
son n
cture y The or
r n s tion
t close range, this bird can easily be identified by its fascinating black, yellow red plumages, a reason it was among the candidates selected to be the national emblem. espite having lost the race to the grey crown crane, it has a special place in the hearts of gandan birders. hy? It is virtually impossible to come by as it is very shy and elusive. here are only two known photographs of this montane forest. hile one was taken in , the la er was taken in both in Congo . his makes it a trophy bird. here t s oun ainly found in Ruhija, one of the wings of windi Impenetrable ational Park
7.Standard-winged Nightjar It is one of the few birds that lay their eggs on bare ground, and this is what makes the standard winged nightjar a must see. It places its elongated and elliptical eggs in bare ground of bushed grasslands and marshy lakeshores from m.
hen roosting, this medium sized cm long bird turns to variegated grey, with a browner collar. yaruhanga notes that in breeding season, the male develops a bizarre wing ornament consisting of a broad central ight feather on each wing elongated to cm. In non breeding seasons, there are no plumage distinctions between the male and female. he best time to see them is September to pril, a time in which the weather is not at extremes. here t s oun Standard winged ightjars are resident in orth estern ganda.
8.Short-tailed Warbler lso known as the eumann s warbler, this angel is as small as cm and . g. Small as it is, it sings loud songs tee tiyoo tee , tee tyer tyii , tyoowi tyee , tee teeyoo tyoowi or tay tiyoo tay intermixing with almost inaudible lipsing notes. he result of this spiced mixture is a soothing call that relaxes the mind. he most noticeable feature on its body is a large head with a uni ue striped pa ern. It also has a very short tail and breeds in shrubby thickets especially along watercourses in swamps. rom a far, it is grey brown, and dull greenish from an up close. here t s oun windi
9.Doherty’s Bushshrike-picture by Mike Gaudaur ike our ag, its plumage has black, yellow and red colours. It also holds strong a achment to family and can t imagine life without the sun, a reason it is mainly vibrant on sunny days. In terms of size, it has cm lengthwise and a body
mass of g. ale ones have a forehead with a forecrown. ther uni ue features include lower cheek, chin and a throat with bright crimson. here t s oun Rwenzori mountains
10.Bar-tailed Trogon-Picture by Steve Garvie rom behind, this particular rogon has a narrow tail with strips of black and white edges. nderneath the tail is entirely stripy. hat s where it gets its name from, bar tailed trogon. hile its bill and feet are yellow, its tail is long and broad. If you asked many birders to describe it, you hear something along these lines. the male s head is blue black with bronze iridescence below the eye are two yellow or orange patches of bare skin above the eye is a yellow or grey patch. he upper breast is iridescent from violet to blue green the rest of the underparts are red. Simply put, it s has a fascinating beauty. here t s oun windi especially in a forestry area called uhoma. ou can track them by their call yaow yaow if they are high up in the canopy.
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Mountain Rwenzori
Wild Quest
mountain
of debate
Choose between two mountain giants: Rwenzori and Kilimanjaro! I know, right? Now that’s a debate every mountaineer might wanna indulge in. Not that it is the first it is showing face, this debate has been brewing for a whole five years now, and both mountain giants make quite the mark. Today however, after pursuing both mountains during the dry and wet seasons, our Travel and Conservation journalist Solomon Oleny and View Uganda editor Andrew Kisamba will weigh in.
The hike et s put it this way, while many a tourist will con uer Kilimanjaro in just five days, Rwenzori takes up to eight days. So first: is time of the essence? If it is a huge factor in your expedition, you might wanna keep that in mind. See, Kilimanjaro is formed as a result of volcanic eruptions and therefore boasts of a free standing mountain with miniature ranges. Paths snaking to its summit make for a gently rising around the slopes of these ranges.
Mountain Kilimanjaro