24 minute read
Hang Me Out To Dry
Sober Curious
Liquor sales have spiked in recent years, but so has interest in creative nonalcoholic beverages (and bars) that bring the vibes without the buzz.
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BY ZOE PHARO
As a Midwest college town, Iowa City has historically been a heavy-drinking community within a heavy-drinking region.
“The University of Iowa has long been known as one of the top party schools,” said Dr. Paul Gilbert, a professor in the College of Public Health who studies alcohol-related disparities. “But it doesn’t have to dominate anymore. I think there are more options downtown and around the Ped Mall that don’t revolve around just going to the bar.”
This shift has been a concerted effort on behalf of the city and the Iowa City Downtown District. The Partnership for Alcohol Safety, a joint project of the university and the city, has been meeting for about 10 years, and Gilbert got involved when he moved to Iowa City in 2015.
Unimpaired Dry Bar is one of these options. The first dry bar in Iowa City has had great success since its grand opening in October 2021. They offer everything a traditional bar would— including a fun atmosphere and expansive drink menu—minus the alcohol, according to events and engagement manager Angie Chaplin.
“It has the energy, it has the music. People will often walk in not knowing we’re an alcohol-free establishment,” she said.
When Chaplin first found Unimpaired, she was looking for somewhere to socialize without the pressure to drink. “I’m two years sober and I’m very, very social, but the two don’t often go together,” she said.
Unimpaired has been embraced by student organizations through the Campus Activities Board at the University of Iowa— for karaoke nights, painting nights or other themed events. Underage students, as well as fraternities and sororities, “still want a social environment, but they want it to be safe and want it to be inclusive of health choices,” Chaplin noted.
This summer, Unimpaired will debut their first sober Hawkeye tailgating club, which Chaplin is particularly excited about as the mother of an Iowa football player.
Dr. Gilbert thinks the trend of embracing nonalcoholic drinking, which is moving from the recovery community to the mainstream, has some connection to the pandemic. He mentioned that early on, rates of drinking started going up, which is a common response to stress.
“We’ve seen that with other things like natural disasters, wars and humanitarian crises,” he added.
The quickest indicator of this trend is sales tax data released by the Iowa Alcoholic Beverages Division, which reported that Iowa reeled in $452,010,794 in total revenue in 2021, up around 13 percent from 2020. Johnson County ranked the second highest in profits from sales.
“But at the same time, I think after the initial uptick, a lot more people were starting to reflect on the role of alcohol in their lives and reevaluating how much they want to be drinking,” Gilbert said. The two often seem to go hand in hand; as drinking rates rise, people also become more curious about the effects of alcohol and what it does to their overall wellbeing.
Alternatives to alcoholic beverages tend to fall into three categories: nonalcoholic spirits that mimic alcohol, like Seedlip liquor and Monday Gin; low-ABV drinks like Haus Apéritifs, near-beer and kombucha; and, of course, nonalcoholic sodas, juices, teas or energy drinks.
Julia DeSpain / Little Village
they want to be drinking.” —Dr. Paul Gilbert, College of Public Health
Looking for a place you can socialize sans alcohol? These spots have dedicated non-alcoholic menus or their bartenders are happy to whip something up.
Wild Culture Kombucha 210 N Linn St, Iowa City, 319-351-3737, wildculturekombucha.com
Vue 328 S Clinton St Unit A, Iowa City, 319-519-4650, vuerooftop-ic.com
Zeppelin’s 5300 Edgewood Rd NE, Cedar Rapids, 319-393-3047, zeppelinscr.com
The Dandy Lion 111 S Dubuque St, Iowa City, 319-358-6400, thedandylionic.com
Goosetown 203 N Linn St, Iowa City, 319-351-1924, goosetownic.com
How about for your home bar? Many area liquor stores have already caught on to the nonalcoholic and sober-curious movement, and carry options ranging from NA spirits to wine and beer, as well as more unique options like aperitifs and CBD drinks.
Benz Beverage Depot 501 7th Ave SE, Cedar Rapids, 319-365-2556, wine.benzbeveragedepot.com
Westside Spirits 3330 16th Ave SW, Cedar Rapids, 319-249-3401, westsidespiritsia.com
Basic Goods 125 S Dubuque St, Iowa City, bscgoods.co
John’s Grocery 401 E Market St, Iowa City, 319-337-2183
Aerin Black, the front-of-house manager and beverage director at The Dandy Lion in Iowa City, says they had originally designed a nonalcoholic menu two years ago, and at that time there wasn’t much of an appeal for it. But recently, they’re seeing an increased demand, “so we’re getting excited to plan to offer a formal nonalcoholic beverages section again, with cocktails in mind.”
Black looks forward to the innovations in mixology these drinks will represent, moving away from “the idea of a mocktail, which in the past has usually been just a Shirley Temple or a virgin Bloody Mary,” they said.
Beyond nonalcoholic cocktails, we may even see completely new options in the area, predicts Jenny McMillen, a home mixology enthusiast. She moved from Hawaii to Iowa City and already makes her own mocktails at home, using local tonic syrups from Joanna’s Premium Tonic Syrups mixed with coconut water or ginger ale. She also brews kombucha and jun, a fermented drink similar to kombucha which substitutes green tea and honey for the typical black tea and sugar.
She’s noticed kava—a drink that promotes relaxation and is considered sacred in Hawaii (and other Pacific Island cultures)— beginning to catch on in the Midwest.
“Kava, in Hawaii, has gotten so many people to stop drinking alcohol, or to help people who are already trying to resist alcohol,” McMillen said. This is because it’s an adaptogen, so it balances your nervous system, with none of the downsides of alcohol. “Kava and kombucha—it doesn’t have addictive qualities, but it has those aspects of bringing people together. It calms you down, lets you relax,” she said.
Joe Reilly, Iowa City’s nighttime mayor, agrees that locals’ tastes have evolved.
Where Everybody Knows Your Name
They’ve outlasted recessions, floods and indoor smoking bans. Every other customer through the doors is a regular. Longtime employees dispense beer, life advice and local legends in equal measure. Some are nestled into neighborhoods, aging alongside generations of residents who find it hard to imagine their hometown without “the bar.” Every nicked table, specific smell and tchochke nailed to the wall speaks to the good old days. Rediscover some of the CRANDIC’s most historic pubs, taverns, lounges and bars.
Hilltop Tavern Ltd.
1100 N Dodge St, Iowa City, 319-338-3063, hilltoptavernnorthside.com The end of Prohibition in 1933 was celebrated across the country. Here in Iowa City, in the historic Northside neighborhood, part of that celebration was the opening of the Hilltop Tavern. Many decades would go by until September of 1981, when Linda Kuncl took over, and she’s been the main barkeep since. Many Iowa City locals and visitors know how great the food is at the Hilltop, but the beloved spot didn’t start out with a full menu. “There were three regulars, called the Three Musketeers, that ate frozen pizza for lunch everyday because that was all we had,” Kunci recalled. “We used John Nidey’s recipe for barbecue pork sandwiches. Next we added what we called Maid-Rites, and I then got a nice letter saying we couldn’t call them that anymore, so the Buckshot Burger started in
Linda Kuncl at Hilltop Tavern Ltd., Iowa City Zak Neumann / Little Village
1981. My customers named it. Kenny Parrot came up with the Buckshot Burger! ” Kuncl has now owned Hilltop for over 40 years, and she calls herself a saloon girl at heart. “I love my job 90 percent of the time. The regular customers, a.k.a. our bread and butter, has been what’s supporting us all these years. The most rewarding part is our interactions with all the customers and the hundreds of stories they’ve told—some of which I’ll take to the grave.”
The Shack Tavern
2545 Old River Rd SW, Cedar Rapids 319-366-3629 A local bar is like a watering hole. And when that bar is located right off a river, it can also be a handy place to dry off. Cedar Rapids and the banks of the Cedar River wouldn’t be the same without the Shack Tavern. Bikers and cyclists alike have made this a regular pitstop and a long list of decades-old customers continue to frequent The Shack for a unique Cedar Rapids experience. Their classic stick-to-your-ribs cooking, river views and summers busy with outdoor get-togethers at their grain bin bar are just a few of the things to love about The Shack. But this old-school tavern also helps local charities by hosting an old-school meat raffle on occasion. Show up to The Shack, buy a ticket, stay for the drawing and you may
Zak Neumann come home with a bundle of quality meat! And how’s this sound for the winter months: beers and bald eagles? There’s a little something at The Shack for all you bird watchers who like to party, too.
Baxa’s Sutliff Store & Tavern
5546 130th St NE, Lisbon, 319-624-2204 sutliffstoreandtavern.com Baxa’s Sutliff Store & Tavern is dripping with money. Seriously! Upon entering, your eyes are immediately drawn to the thousands of dollar bills that are attached to the ceiling. Layered over one another, every single George Washington tells the story of a past visit. Tyler Light is the current owner and has family ties to Baxa’s and its past owners all the way back to the 1930s.
“It’s a rite of passage, Baxa’s. I hung out here as a kid just like many other regulars and customers,” he said. “It’s a family-first setting here. It’s the one place where it’s OK to have your kids wander around. If you don’t like it then you’re the one that has to get out.” Baxa’s is known for a family reunion-esque atmosphere. Regular customers inquire about the family of the employees, and the staff reciprocates. Customers also play catch-up with each other, boasting about accomplishments and commiserating over losses over some suds. “Stop and people-watch for awhile when you’re here,” Light recommends. “It doesn’t matter if you’re in a suit and tie or have hog shit on your boots, you’ll see ’em here. And they’re all welcomed. It’s a safezone for beer lovers!” The view of the Cedar River is spectacular from the bridge. You’re welcome to take your food and drink out on the wooden planks while you gawk. Baxa’s is known for their burgers, breaded pork tenderloins and fried bologna sandwiches, all wonderful. The beer is cold and the ambiance is legendary, including the cash décor—a visual reminder of the many locals and travelers who adore this institution.
George’s Buffet
312 E Market St, Iowa City, 319-351-9614 facebook.com/georgesbuffet.iowacity A lot has changed around the Linn Street and Market Street area in Iowa City over the years. Tuck’s became Hanrahan’s, then IC Ugly’s and now Wild Culture Kombucha. Hamburg Inn remains, but the Chill & Grill, Pearson’s Drug Store, Linn Street Cafe, Paul Revere’s Pizza, Frame House & Gallery and Gilpin Paint have all been lost to the ages. Some of the properties turned into different businesses while some have been replaced by modern condos and retail shops. George’s Buffet has watched this corner of the Iowa City galaxy change with a classic cheeseburger in one hand and a beer-back in the other. Its early 20th century feel has never faded, and its hold on the Northside—where it meets downtown Iowa City—hasn’t either. Currently flanked by a five-story mixed-use development on one side and precious Iowa City public parking on the other, George’s still brings in the crowds that pour into the booths and belly up to the bar everyday. The aroma of Americana is all around you, coming off a double bourbon neat, the hoppiness of a cold draught beer and the meaty haze lingering from the small hamburger cooker in the back. George’s is the ultimate trip into Iowa City’s history and hits the nostalgic sensory angle hard.
Green Gable Inn
1227 J Ave NE, Cedar Rapids, 319-366-4640 facebook.com/Green-GableInn-100886129956265 According to owner Steve Bray, Green Gable Inn has been continuously operating as a tavern, legally or illegally, since 1912. The bar takes its name from the days when a trolley turnaround was located right outside the front doors, and rooms were available for rent for weary travelers. The bar continued to operate as a speakeasy during Prohibition. The windows were covered to block light from the bar, and patrons would embark on a journey before imbibing—entering through apartment 1229 upstairs, traveling down a
Steve Bray at Green Gable Inn Zak Neumann / Little Village
flight of stairs into the basement of the main house, and then up a flight of stairs to the bar located in the extension off the farm house. The constancy of service—regardless of what’s happening outside the walls of the bar—is something of a feather in the Gable’s cap. In April 1996, there was a significant fire in the bar after the boiler exploded, but the inn closed just long enough for firefighters to extinguish the flames. The bar reopened shortly after, noting that customers wouldn’t mind the smokiness since people smoked so much in bars anyway. On a recent visit to Green Gable, longtime bartender Brian Marconi also spoke to the longevity of the tavern. “The most rewarding part and the piece that keeps the place running are the people, the longtime regular customers. There are some families where I’ve served three generations. I served his dad”—he gestures to a young man across the bar—“and now I’m serving him, and his little nephew comes in here for soda.” Keeping the interior relatively the same generation after generation is something Bray takes great pride in. “It didn’t look like anything was redesigned since the ’70s and when we took over, we modernized it and brought it up to code, but it’s not obvious,” he said. “For the people who have always come here, it still looks like the same place they’ve always come.”
Zak Neumann / Little Village
A Seat at the Big Kids’ Table
What started as a simple ploy to banish weekday morning grumbles became a way for these burgeoning foodies to have their voices heard.
Is it just us or is it harder to get out of bed at the end of the week? Our parents have tried a bunch of ways to try to get us up. By Friday morning, nothing but a guarantee of unlimited screen time could get us moving. That is until they started holding a special breakfast over our heads: a genius parenting move. It forces us to try to behave all week in order to cash in on this coupon. It’s interesting that during meals at home our parents refuse to cook us separate meals, forcing us to “try new things” that are usually green or red. Ugh. But when they take us out to eat they want us to order from the “Everything for Kids is the Color Beige” box? Um, no thanks! They trained us better than that. Why do adults get an entire page but us kids get a tiny box in the corner with all the usual suspects—chicken fingers, mac and cheese, quesadillas? It’s kind of insulting. Maybe that’s why we don’t always love going out for dinner. And school lunch? Don’t even get us started.
But breakfast! Now that’s a meal that makes us feel like equals. We get to order from the full menu, not just from a few boring things down below. So, the first time they whispered to us, “Let’s go out for breakfast before school today,” we were up and dressed, backpacks loaded, helping each other out the door and in the car with seatbelts on before our parents had on their coats. Now, we look forward to this special morning event all week. For other parents looking for tips on how to get your kids out of bed or if you just want to take your family out for a meal with a truly kid-friendly menu: Go out for breakfast.
If we had cars and could drive ourselves around, here’s a list of our top picks:
IOWA CITY Cortado Mediterranean Cafe 26 S Clinton St, Iowa City, 319-519-2340, cortadoic.com Try their chocolate croissant. See if you can find the U.S. flag on the wall while you wait for your parents to finish their coffees. It was also really satisfying to watch homemade pitas being made into perfectly puffed piles. Educational, as our parents would say.
Pullman Bar & Diner 17 S Dubuque St, Iowa City, 319-338-1808, pullmandiner.com Grab a seat in one of the booths and order the coffee cake. It’s as close as kids can get to caffeine without anyone noticing. It was fun to pretend we were on a real train car. It was also pretty hard not to shout “All Aboard!” whenever the waiter came to our table. Pro-tip: Use the big mirrors to spy on your neighbors and watch while the kitchen works its magic.
Deluxe Cakes & Pastries 812 S Summit St, Iowa City, 319-338-5000, deluxeiowa.com Get the quiche. Hands down. It’s awesome to eyeball the fancy desserts in their pretty display case, but the quiche crust alone is worth the trip. How do they get so many layers in one crust? Tastebuds blown! Also, it’s really clean in there. Like, it made us want to clean up our own crumbs kind of clean.
Goosetown 203 N Linn St, Iowa City, 319-351-1924, goosetownic.com Skip straight to the pop-tarts. It doesn’t matter which; they are all good. But good things take time, we’ve heard our parents say. So trust us, you’re going to want to bring a game of some kind. The parents are going to order a lot of things before the pop-tarts come.
The Encounter Cafe 376 S Clinton St, Iowa City, 3 19-519-2044, the-encounter-cafe.square.site Go for the blueberry streusel muffin. The breakfast sandwiches are also worth it. Pretend you own the place and sit in the secret cove near the fireplace. Be sure to serve yourself some lemon spa water like a boss while you wait for the order number to light up.
Sidekick Coffee and Books 1310 1/2 Melrose Ave, Iowa City, 319-569-1010, sidekickonline.shopsettings.com Get the cruffin. You heard that right: croissant meets muffin with a surprise in the middle. Yum! We tell our parents we want to go for the books. Yeah, sure…the books. —Brynn Buhmeyer, age 8 and Timothy Buhmeyer, age 11, siblings, Kids Menu Advocates and co-contributors to The Buhmeyer Times
CEDAR RAPIDS
Feedwell Kitchen and Bakery
560 Boyson Rd NE, Ste A, Cedar Rapids 319-409-6905, feedwellkitchenandbakery.com I t is a treat to have breakfast at Feedwell Kitchen and Bakery. The room is full of natural light and decorated in a simple, elegant style. It’s a nice place to sit, and as it wasn’t too busy, we hung out for a while after breakfast, drawing and talking. There was another family there, as well as folks having business meetings and morning coffee. Orders are placed at the counter and the food is brought out to the tables. The menu offers standards with a twist as well as healthy choices and salads. We opted for a pastry board so we could sample more than one of the enticing selection of pastries and cakes. I love a good breakfast sandwich and their Standard does not disappoint: egg and cheese on a perfect cheddar-chive biscuit. I added bacon. My daughter Ruth and I shared the sandwich and a breakfast quinoa bowl served with almond milk, raisins and roasted berries. She chose the quinoa bowl because she “wanted to try something new.” We also shared a special drink—a vanilla steamed milk colored pink with beetroot powder. When asked for her review, Ruth, 6 ½ years old, said: “I like the breakfast sandwich; I like the biscuit and the bacon. I like the drink and I’m so-so on the quinoa.” We will definitely return for more special breakfasts and highly recommend Feedwell Kitchen and Bakery. —Zoe and Ruth Mossman
SOLON
Bluebird Cafe
112 E Main St, Solon, 319-624-2031, bluebird.cafe B reakfast at the new Bluebird Cafe in Solon was something special for my hungry 3-year-old son George. One side of the restaurant has cozy wooden booths—a holdover from the previous occupant, Salt Fork Kitchen (RIP!)—but the other side of the restaurant has undergone a bit of a transformation. The space has been outfitted with a smattering of blond wood tables, lengthy bright blue vinyl banquettes (perfect for racing Hot Wheels, in case you were wondering) and minimal, yet thematic decor. It’s a cheery and bright, open space with huge street-facing windows flooding the space with natural light even on a cloudy morning. These windows were the highlight of breakfast for my aforementioned 3-year-old. They allowed for long uninterrupted views of big trucks passing—an activity that could entertain him for hours it seems. The menu at the cafe offers all the classics: breakfast sandwiches, eggs Benedict and omelets as well as some sweet treats: pancakes, waffles and Cinnamon Roll French toast. George is a sucker for pancakes, but at home they’re prepared sans sugar and bulked up with fiber, so the pancakes here were something of a treat. We ordered ours with whipped cream and strawberries, and though the giant pillows of cream and the generous knob of butter were the first bits to be consumed, George ate most of the pancake which was honestly as big as the plate itself. I tried the Steel Cut Oatmeal, which is admittedly not a particularly exciting choice on paper, but I was pleasantly surprised when it arrived with all the accouterments to dress it up and it was much tastier and quicker than what I make at home. When asked for his review, George had very little to say about the food. Instead, his appreciation was focused on the ambiance and scenery the cafe provided: “I like the trucks. I saw a cement mixer and a tanker truck and a grain truck.” He may not have had much to say about the food, but a mostly clean plate at the end of a meal tells me all I need to know. It’s a comfortable and easy spot for breakfast. We’ll be back again. —Frankie Schneckloth and George Davies
We All Scream
Nothing soothes the soul quite like a scoop, cone or mixture named after a weather event.
The Brass Fountain
122 E Main St, Solon, 319-624-6122, brassfountain.com An ode to the soda fountains and malt shops of a bygone era, The Brass Fountain tastes like a trip to the past. And since it’s run by Brix owner Nick Craig, you know it’s not sacrificing style or substance. The sundaes, shakes, egg creams and floats served with housemade sodas come in the classic tall glass cups, and scoops of hard-packed ice cream are served in stemmed glass bowls. The classic plating matches the restaurant’s sharp, bright, retro decor. But come on, if the ice cream weren’t great, who’d care? The mint chocolate chip-based Cookie Monster sundae is delightfully over the top, served with cookie crumbles, hot fudge and blue sprinkles.
The Fountain even has an impressive list of alcohol-infused ice cream dishes like the Bananas Foster Shake: vanilla ice cream and flambéed bananas spiked with rum and caramel. Try saying no to that.
Dan and Debbie’s Creamery
1600 Main St, Ely, 319-848-6455, dananddebbies.com Dan and Debbie’s Creamery gets their dairy straight from the owners’ milk cows. That is as local an ice cream product as you can get, and you can taste it. The richness in just the basic vanilla bean ice cream is worth experiencing alone. Their Coffee Oreo brings two flavors you never knew you needed together in one scoop. The Peaches and Cream is sharp and sweet like a good peach should be. All of these flavors are made in small batches; you’ll rarely see some of the limited flavors in consecutive visits. It’s right near a bike trail that goes to Cedar Rapids’ Czech Village, so
burn some calories on the bike to make room for Dan and Debbie’s. Just don’t forget to buy some of their classic cream-topped milk for home!
Zak Neumann / Little Village
Korner Kremery
202 E Washington St, Washington, 319-653-2096 This klassic ice kream joint is open seasonally, spring through fall. There’s something simple but magic about small-town ice cream stores like Korner Kremery, the kind of place where older couples come to remember past dates, and high school students go after class. Korner Kremery earns its multigenerational fanbase with a laundry list of dramatic hardpack ice creams. The bright swirl of bold colors in the Superman ice cream tastes like cereal on a Saturday morning, while their Birthday Cake flavor with chunks of batter may actually beat a slice of cake.
Get any scoop served in a big waffle cone. Try their twist on the Dairy Queen Blizzard, the Cyclone, or sip a cereal milkshake. Conveniently kitty-corner from the world’s oldest continuously running movie theater, the Fridley State Theater, take a drive and see why Washington has one of the best downtowns in the state.
Frydae
743 10th St, Marion, 319-200-4550, finallyfrydae.com Do it for the ‘gram! Head to Frydae for a treat and photo shoot, that is. The cups and cones are piled high here—just look at their already-iconic Glampfire sundae with vanilla ice cream, hot fudge, graham cracker crumbs and lightly charred marshmallows on top. The Cake Shake has a cake pop sticking out of it, and the Everything But the Cookie Jar shake has full chocolate-chip cookies on top.
But their aggressively fun presentations give way to hugely sweet and bold flavors. Frydae’s strawberry purée-infused Strawberry Short Shake could trick you into thinking it’s spring in February. With a wide variety of loaded French fries on the menu as well, we won’t blame you if Frydae becomes your favorite indulgent dinner spot.
Dane’s Dairy
1430 Willow Creek Ct, Iowa City, 319-354-7400, facebook.com/DanesDairy How do Iowa Citians know that summer
is coming? The hot temperatures? The UI students leaving? The mosquitoes? Nope, it’s the opening of Dane’s Dairy, which usually opens in late April and closes for the season in early October.
In business since 1960, this veritable snack shack has become a townie favorite due to its classic flavors and inexpensive prices. Soft serve here is king, and prices are partially why: $1 kid cones, $2 regular cones. Their $3.50 waffle cone is packed with so much soft serve it could probably sedate a bear, but it’s exactly what you want soft serve to be. With no indoor dining space, Dane’s becomes a community lawn where families, couples and friend groups mill around, dripping ice cream on grass and picnic tables. That may sound messy, but it’s also peak summer in Iowa City.
Don’t Miss These Spots!
FOR AN ICE CREAM AFTER A
DAY’S ADVENTURE AT FW KENT PARK
Jon’s Ice Cream Store & Restaurant
231 W Marengo Rd, Tiffin, 319-545-2558, facebook.com/jonsicecreamtiffin Open seasonally, spring through fall. The blackberry hand-dipped ice cream (a specialty flavor that rotates in) is a standout on a packed menu. When it shows up, clear your calendar. If it’s not on offer just yet, never fear—Jon’s soft serve is great, as are their other specialty ice creams and sundaes.
FOR THE CLASSIC SCOOP SHOP FEEL
Heyn’s Ice Cream
811 S 1st Ave, Iowa City, 319-354-1981 25 E Cherry St, North Liberty, 319-665-2249, heynsicecream.com Their housemade ice cream packs a creamy flavorful punch and the charming hand-drawn flavor signs at the Iowa City shop are the cherry on top of the sundae that is Heyn’s.
FOR A TRULY CLASSIC MILKSHAKE
Parlor City Ice Cream
1936 42nd St NE, Cedar Rapids, 319-393-4867, parlorcityicecream.com Open seasonally, spring through fall. It takes some work to narrow down your choice from the dizzying array of flavors, but the shakes are damn good and worth the order-induced anxiety.
