The Lexington Line - Spring 2022

THE LEXINGTON LINE

S/S 22 • vol 8 • no 2

The Lexington Line • S/S 22 • vol 8 • no 2

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the digital assistant that makes shopping seamless and safe

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Masthead Editors’ Letter Color Pages Beauty Buys Runway Report Editors' Picks Student Style

THE USUALS 29 70 74

Poetry Series Part 1 Breaking Into Records Poetry Series Part II

CULTURE 12 32 77 80

Against the Grain Indisposed High on Fantasy Stylist Spotlight

FASHION 07 18 24

Love Thy Nude Remembering Us Dishing the Dirt

LIFESTYLE 22 30 82

BEAUTY

Unnatural Woman A Place in the Sun Fleur Demure

TABLE of contents

03 05 06 16 20 90 94

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Evelyn Peralta Lara Kalajian Lauren Smelker Graphic Designers

Hannah Szwast Managing Editor Kally Compton Editorial & production Director Khayla Biscoe C r e at i v e D i r e c t o r Victoria Villano ART DIRECTOR Angelika Cwiklewski Marketing Director

Hannah Martin Sendy Medina SET Designers

Elara Montana Victoria Villano

Jameel Basit Destiny Follinsv Megan Kaba Amber Rosaly PROP DESIGNERS

Gemma Chambers Romy Jankelowitz Lara Kotb Victoria Villano

Landon Rice Nicalina Del Rosario Photographers

Sofia Naranjo FA S H I O N D i r e c t o r Emma DeFelice beaut y Director

Brianna Cacioppo Sohl Garibaldo Raquael Hines S T Y L I N G A S S I S TA N T S

Jenna Filingeri St yling Director

Emily White Web Director

Isabella Ortiz Andrea Neu Scout O’Donnell Sabrina Stott Ian Grafvonluxburg Elara Spangler Editors

Beauty News Music Culture Fashion Lifestyle

Lauren Smelker Raquael Hines Breia Crisden A s s i s ta n t E d i t o r S

Fashion News & Lifestyle Culture

Hannah Cox Abigail Hennessey Web Editor

Kaylyn Montgomery Dezire Pestano Bianca Schwinghammer

Courtney Mason Victoria Villano

Francesca Gori Marketing Coordinator Hannah Kroll Marketing Coordinator Ivanna Pompermaier Marketing Coordinator Eleonora Skomorovskaya Social Media Manager Jessica Serrano Social Media Manager Kendra Deangelis Social Media Manager Meghan Mattina Social Media Manager Marketing

Megan Kaba Sian Jackson A s s i s ta n t c r e at i v e D I R E C T O R s

Professor John Deming Professor Joseph P. Sgambati III Fa c u lt y A d v i s o r s

Jennifer Felder Julia "Lolo" Hererra A S S I S TA N T S T Y L I N G D I R E C T O R S

Dr. Daniel Chaskes A r t s & s c i e n c e s D e pa r t m e n t C h a i r

Michael Londrigan, Associate Professor & Advisor to the Provost Elizabeth Marcuse, President of LIM College Lisa Springer, Provost SPECIAL THANKS

The Lexington Line is a registered trademark of LIM College

masthead

Tessa Aldridge Editor in Chief

Sarah Albert • Caitlyn Mae Araña • Christopher Barto • Amie Blumberg Dani Brand • Laura Cioffi • Michael Donohue • Meredith Finnin Professor Timothy Foran • Erica Fouts • Tiffany Fuentes • Colt Hartman Laura Healy • Samantha James • Maranda Janky • Dr. Kenneth Kambara Professor Laurel Lueders • Eric Martin • Michael Meyer Maurice Morency • Gail Nardin • Kristina Ortiz • Pheanny Phen Professor Donna Pulese-Murphy • Olga Raganelli • Monica Rakocy Gilbert Stack • Travis Stephens • Professor Liz Sweibel • Dr. Alex Symons Sabrina Talbert • The LIM College Bookstore • All LIM College Faculty All contributors to The Lexington Line MANY THANKS

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Welcome to the 16th issue of The Lexington Line. We were back on campus this time and included two shoots completed at our new Fifth Avenue photo studio. We also developed our first ever set design team in partnership with the Visual Studies department to bring our sets to life.

Our fashion editorial confronts sustainability. Plastic sculptures and oil motifs suggest consequences of climate change. We wove in high fashion looks handpicked by our styling team, including an outfit made out of post consumer waste by a design student at North Carolina State University.

Our beauty editorial is a celebration of the environment. We’ve heard that florals aren’t groundbreaking for spring, but we hope you’ll find a unique perspective on our shoot with these vibrant flower-inspired makeup looks. We also have a piece addressing how “natural” beauty looks aren’t what they’re cracked up to be.

Yet again, poetry is ingrained in this issue, but this time, the focus is on relationships. To push the envelope a bit, there is an article about nudes, or what Euphoria calls our culture’s “currency of love”—and speaking of everyone’s favorite fashion-adjacent drama, we have a piece exploring Euphoria’s fun, ridiculous, and expensive costumes.

Our team has loved putting together this issue for you, and we’re thrilled that it’s finally in your hands.

editors’ Letter

Dear Readers,

Xoxo, The Editors

Tessa Aldridge

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Hannah Szwast

MANAGING EDITOR

Khayla Biscoe

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Kally Compton

EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

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Tom Ford Satin Utility Jacket $3,250

Saks Floral Nylon Jacket $8,490

Huishan Zheng Tulle Midi Skirt $2,025

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Bergdorf Goodman GIA x Pernille Calfskin Stiletto Mule Sandals $395

Wolf & Badger Iszara One Shoulder Scupltured Gown $1,243

Moda Operandi Heather Cotton-Blend Cropped Wrap Top by Cult Gaia $220

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Team Coco orange

Saks Fifth Ave Cult Gaia Eden Acrylic Crossbody Clutch $318

LOVE THY NUDE 8

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Nudes may be the currency of love, but be wary of what you’re buying into

By Tessa Aldridge

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B

ella says her soul left her body the day her nudes were leaked. The night before, numerous part of New Jersey had lost power. One of Bella’s friends still had the lights on, so she and a group of friends playfully decided to shower together. One friend snapped a few pics, thinking it was a funny moment. The next day, one of their male friends was browsing her friend’s phone and sent the pictures to himself—then shared them with the whole football team, which included Bella’s brother.

“One girl called me a homewrecker because her boyfriend had the photo saved in his phone and that caused issues for them,” Bella remembers. The release of the photos caused extreme anxiety.

“I was so insecure about everybody seeing my body, and I think it created a negative mindset because I was tearing apart the photo in my head like ‘omg I look terrible, I wish people didn’t see that,’” she says.

Even years later, Bella still has a lot of anxiety over the couple of nudes she has sent her boyfriend. She has a fear deep down that if they break up one day, he’ll leak them, even though she completely trusts him right now.

Nudes are no new concept to Gen Z. We’ve grown up with Snapchat and iPhones, and taking intimate photos has been a rite of passage in dating.

In Euphoria, Rue (Zendaya) calls nudes “the currency of love.”

And she’s not wrong. Nudes can be a way of connecting with a partner, or even connecting with yourself. But there is a darkness around nude culture, and it’s something to be aware of before sending personal photos. *** Leah’s ex-boyfriend Dylan leaked her nudes not long after they broke up. When they were together, he had expressed interest in taking videos and photos. “Even though he knew that I wasn’t that confident in my body, I did things to mainly make him happy,” she says.

She wasn’t quite comfortable with it, but they made a pact to never share photos if they broke up. They did break up, and a week later, Leah was on her way to her cousin’s house. While she was in the car, she got a snapchat from a familiar name from her ex’s town.

“It was one of my nudes,” she says. “It was sent without any context, but I knew my ex was the only one who had them.”

“A year ago, my best friend told me that her boyfriend got on her phone, sent them to himself, and claimed he was going to sell them to ‘buy her a birthday gift.’” The photos Ryan’s BFF had weren’t sexual; they were just pictures of friends making each other laugh. When Ryan found out her best friend’s boyfriend did this to her, she tried to go to the police. But since there wasn’t enough “evidence,” she was forced to live with his disgusting actions. It’s been years now, and the best friend never dumped the boyfriend, so it’s safe to understand that these two had a horrible falling out. *** All Clara remembers are the whispers and the threatening messages she received after her photos were leaked. It felt as if the worst thing that could ever happen to her became true, and she wasn’t quite sure how to live with it.

“When a private part of myself became very public in my adolescence, it felt like everyone around me knew my darkest secret,” she says. She told her mother she didn’t want to live anymore, was sent to an inpatient unit for over a week, and continued intensive therapy for a while after.

“I don’t believe that I genuinely wanted to end my life, but I saw that as a better option compared to the terror that had become my high school,” she says. “But, alas, I had to return.”

After a while, when she graduated from the school that hosted all of her trauma, she was able to move on.

The world can feel dark when your private photos are made public. It’s especially hard for women because of a double standard that exists. Kaleb is just one example of a man whose experience greatly differed from a woman’s. He had been talking to Maya for a couple weeks before Maya decided to release his photos. She claimed that she thought Kaleb was flirting with other girls, and her anger caused her to betray him.

Kaleb found out because he was in a group chat where the photo was being sent around. As opposed to the shaming that Clara or Leah faced, Kaleb was praised for it. They all were “surprised” by him and had very positive reactions.

Of course, there were a couple of hurtful replies, but they didn’t overpower the praise. “Honestly, I was obviously pretty hurt, and struggled with trust for a while,” Kaleb tells me.

“I stopped sending pictures for a year or so. Since then, I’ve stopped ever sending pictures but that was because of my faith. I’m now a minister.” ***

She tried to confront Dylan, she says, but this only made things worse. He continued to share her photos until he eventually grew tired of it. But Leah is still traumatized knowing her photos could still be out there.

This may sound surprising, but the leaking of one’s nudes can actually be a good thing. Even though these women have faced a lot of trouble around their nudes, it’s not like this for everyone.

Salty ex-boyfriends aren’t the only ones leaking nudes.

In Ryan’s case, her best friend’s boyfriend was the traitor.

Violet loves their body. And when I say love, I mean love.

They love being nude. They told me about “viewing the body

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as an art form itself” and how “it can be seen as the hand or a nipple, and it should both be seen the same, they can be used to convey different things.”

For Violet, who doesn’t like to focus on their gender, the hard part is when they feel they are being gendered. Violet is comfortable with their body, except when they feel they’re being labeled based on what they were born with.

Some women are able to empower themselves through the experience of having their nudes leaked. Some feel it’s easy to brush it off their shoulder and move on. Lydia was talking to a boy who thought it would be “cool” to leak her nudes. She found out when the boy’s friend told her she has a “nice ass” while she was walking to class. She immediately confronted the boy. She said that she “told the kid he was a loser and shouldn’t do that.” Now, a few years later, she has found that nudes can be a key to intimacy in relationships.

“They have helped me learn and grow to love my body and to see how beautiful it is,” she says. “So when I send [my boyfriend] nudes, it’s because I was feeling myself and in love with the way I looked.”

In 2020, novelist Diana Spechler published a New York Times article about the role nudes played in the pandemic.

“At the time, trading photos was all there was,” she told me in a phone interview. Sending photos actually helped people stay connected during the lockdown, not only with partners, but with themselves.

“It’s a way for some people to feel sexy, to feel connected to their sexuality,” she says.

Reagan loved taking nudes as a way to connect with herself.

She started sending them to please an older man she was talking to. But over time, she realized, “it made me come to terms with a lot of insecurities about my body and accept it for what it is.” “There were times I’d dress up in lingerie to take pictures, and it would lead to me making myself dinner and enjoying time with myself,” she says.

While taking nudes is typically seen as a way to connect with a partner, Reagan suggests nudity can really help us with body positivity.

“Now that I’m older, I’ve accepted my body for all the curves, scars, stretch marks, and hairs,” she says. Most men and women struggle with body image to some degree, so if we can take nudes to appreciate ourselves, what’s the harm?

The best advice, Spechler says, is to exercise caution— “but still live your life.”

against the grain For these five brands, gender neutral garments are not a c u r i o s i t y, t h e y a r e t h e p o i n t by sofia naranjo

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Gender neutral garments are nothing new, but until recently, brands haven’t made them their sole focus. This has meant the rise of a unique era in fashion: retail, not just runway, can dive in creatively without having to think about abiding by strict gender norms.

It is more than dressing like a man or a woman—it’s about dressing for you.

Fashion provides non-binary people the ability to express themselves to the world and feel like the clothing they wear fits who they are. It is deeper than fabric on your body; it is about feeling seen, heard, and cared for. Here are five brands helping fashion grow freer.

urb ody Urbody sees your body as a canvas. The brand was created by Mere Abrams, a non-binary social worker and gender researcher, and their best friend Anna Graham, who has experience in the fashion industry.

What makes Urbody so special is that they have a creator who understands the frustration of finding underwear that fits their body without the strict lines of masculine and feminine clothing. The brand’s underwear and bodywear is for everyone, but it concentrates on the confidence and comfort of trans, non-binary, and gender non-conforming people. The bodywear is very precise, as it is fit tested by community members that represent everyone on the gender spectrum.

The Urbody team expressed in an interview for Shondaland how their brand makes up for what is lacking in the fashion industry: “We felt a need to create a collection of garments that presented options to folks across the gender spectrum, as well as create a call to action for the fashion industry to realize its role in trans lives and trans liberation.”

Part of Urbody’s popularity comes from the fact that their models are everyday people with their own stories: “I’ve been in so many different fit sessions, but I’ve never experienced how emotional it could be for somebody to try on something and feel so affirmed in their gender and their identity. There was so much joy that it brought to them, knowing there was something that was made for them and made them feel comfortable.”

B a rr aga n When Victor Barragan was asked what beauty means to him, he said, “We endorse gender and ethnic diversity. We endorse the idea of unity around the world, which is pretty important for us these days.” His high-end genderless clothing brand thrives on the blurred line and has carved out a refreshing niche in the fashion industry.

Barragan is a Latin fashion designer from Mexico City that focuses on gender identity and art within fashion. His collections are more about an overall performance than individual garments. He produces collections comprising reconstructed designs that look like they were thrown on at the last minute, but that are still effortlessly fashionable and appropriate for a night out.

Barragan is heavy on community and sex positivity; he produces pieces without any gender normativity in mind. His A/W '17 collection consisted of the models eschewing self-exposure and placing emphasis on specific objects they were being photographed with. Barragan’s models are not only displays for the clothing but are also essential components of a broader artistic vision. As Barragan says in a Metal Magazine interview, “regardless of their gender, all the models wore individual looks that represent their own personality within the performance.”

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p hl uid p ro jec t “Gender euphoria”—that’s how Robert Garrett Smith characterizes launching The Phluid Project in 2018.

“There were certainly people who were overjoyed by the concept, and there are so many different stories of people coming to the city because they heard about it or read about it,” he said in a Zoom interview. “It was like a sense of exhilaration.”

Smith founded The Phluid Project as both a brand and a community whose mission is to advocate for self-expression and freedom in clothing. They also make sure to give a voice to those who reject gender normativity and simply wear whatever they want. The Phluid Project solely partners with brands that promote and recognize the non-binary and the LGBTQ+ community overall.

The brand sends strong messages on its clothing—phrases like “Protect Black Trans Women,” “They Power,” and “Gender Is A Social Construct.” The Phluid Project has a foundation that supports those at risk in the LGBTQIA+ community and assist trans-led organizations and the homeless queer youth. The team uplifts groups and organizations all over the country, including Marsha P Johnson Institute, Ali Forney Center, Brave Space Alliance, and BTFA Collective.

Fa ng FANG is one of the brands The Phluid Project partners with; the NYC-based brand has been under a spotlight in the fashion industry for the past year. FANG is a high-end menswear brand that is all about the modern man, which the designer Fang Guo sees as “the feeling of being masculine, feminine, and everything in between.” The brand is known for its sensual knitwear, which was featured in their first collection. FANG challenges the idea of masculinity and what it means to be masculine in life and through clothing. The brand reinvents men's clothing like basic tank tops with cutouts, a touch of pearls, open backs, and a simple bow for elegance.

FANG’s collections offer overall comfort with fit and design but also with self-expression and freedom from restrictions.

One Dn a One DNA is a small business that is gaining traction and becoming a familiar name. The brand is produced at ateliers in New York City but has recently moved a store to Ypsilanti, Michigan, where one of the co-founders is from. It is an independently managed, black- and queer-owned business. Co-founder Travis Weaver described One DNA to Out Magazine as “clothing without boundaries” and a brand that’s about “all genders, all ages, all shapes, all races.” The brand’s collections include basics like sweatshirts, sweatpants, knits, T-shirts, and tanks that are all labeled gender neutral.

The current collection includes “Women Are Powerful” text on the basics. 10% of profits from the Women Are Powerful collection are donated to the Women’s Law Center along with other non-profits that support women and girls. One DNA has made gender-neutral clothing that is comfortable and is easy to include in a wardrobe.

“It's important to me to make everyone feel included,” Weaver explained. “We’re carefully designing our core collection to be unisex, but still look great. We focus on a casual fit that accommodates most body types, [and] you can style items in multiple ways. It’s very universal.”

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Viori Shampoo Bar $16 Dieux Skin Forever Eye Mask $25

Pleasing Perfect Pearl Polish $20

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Merit Flush Balm $28

Ilia Beauty Limitless Lash Mascara $28

Lapis Blue Tansy Face Oil $72

Face Halo Reusable Makeup Remover $22

Rose Inc. Amplifying Lip Color $26

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Remembering us How to Deal With e xc e s s i v e N o s ta l g i a by emily White With shaky fingers, I open the small red notebook that has haunted me since the day I found it in a basement storage bin. I know what’s in there, and I know it’s going to hurt to read it. But without a pause, I open it and let in words my grandmother wrote more than twenty years ago.

Her sloppy script comes to life, creating a continuous flow with each turn of the page. My cheeks turn scorching hot, causing droplets to fall from my eyes. And suddenly, I am outside my own body, watching Annamarie Accardi go through life.

“I loved to go to Woodstock with my friends, even though we never made it past the parking lot,” the diary reads. She lived a whole life before we knew each other, I realized.

We all live whole lives that, even if they are recorded, at some point are gone for good.

I find myself dwelling on my past more than I should. I could be listening to a song, scrolling through my camera roll, or finding a stuffed animal I used to cherish. It doesn’t make me happy, but I willingly throw myself into the past to try and feel a few things twice.

Maybe you do this too. We all have moments that we wish to forget or that we could relive because they made us so happy. The best we get is a simulation of that feeling.

I’ve never truly gotten over the loss of my grandmother. I can still hear 18

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the ambulances scream down my block. The red and blue flashing lights haunt me when I close my eyes, and I am left with nothing but knick-knacks around my house to remember her by.

In the 1600s, a physician named Johannes Hofer coined the term “nostalgia.” The British Psychological Society says that he associated the term with anxiety, homesickness, and disordered eating.

Keeping objects or images from one’s childhood can make you nostalgic. But there are no rules to this feeling; you can be nostalgic about something that happened only yesterday.

This can be extremely harmful to your mental health, as it has been to mine Just like a drug addict chases their first high, I chase and chase the feelings I experienced at different points in my life, knowing it won’t fulfill me.

In an episode of the podcast “Speaking of Psychology,” Dr. Krystine Batcho, a professor of psychology at Syracuse University, calls this conflict “bittersweet.”

“It’s sweet because we’re remembering the best times, the good times of our life. The bitterness comes from the sense that we know for sure that we can never really regain them, they’re gone forever,” she says.

This longing for the past is nothing new. The ancient Greek poet Sappho shared these ideas in her work in the 6th century BCE. Through her words, she is able to encapsulate the immensity of this feeling.

I was so happy Believe me, I prayed that that night might be doubled for us Sappho gives the impression that she is pleading with the addressee or a higher power to go back in time—knowing that cannot happen.

By capitalizing the word “Believe,” she tries to convince the audience, and herself, that she was truly happy at that point in her life.

This creates the bittersweet feeling Dr. Batcho describes.

Our memories are ours after all— and they are not always happy. But even if they are, our memories serve as a reminder that we might never feel those exact emotions again.

Though experts today do not consider nostalgia to be a mental illness, it does not always come with a positive connotation.

“Longing for the past (something you can’t reclaim) can fuel dissatisfaction with the present,” Crystal Raypole says in a Healthline article. “Nostalgic depression, then, can describe a yearning colored with deeper tones of hopelessness or despair.” *** At ten years old, I lost the love of my life. The moment I lost her, I didn’t realize how much her absence would affect me into my adulthood.

The one thing I’m able to fill the void with is objects. Have you ever looked at something that reminds you of someone, and somehow there

you are, watching yourself with this person, kind of like a ghost?

Whenever I see a teacup of any size or design, I’m transported to Sunday mornings sitting around my grandmother’s coffee table.

We’re either watching I Love Lucy on repeat or singing Michael Buble' very underrated single “Home” around the kitchen.

The sunlight hits whatever hair color she was sporting that week, and the soft glow illuminates her porcelain skin. I am happy. She makes me laugh.

Then I realize I’m not there and never will be again.

A red Volkswagen bug probably means nothing to you—but that small car means the world to me.

My grandmother was a woman of a particular taste, to say the least.

She also loved wearing brooches, specifically ladybug ones to match her car.

The life of a fifth-grader is not easy, and once after a long day, my grandmother and I decided it was necessary to blow off some steam, with a view of course. We headed to the beach five minutes from our house and let the saltwater stench tickle our nostrils, instantly making us laugh.

Tears roll down my cheek, and they aren’t from giggling. She’s not actually laughing, and I’m in a Ford Escape, not her Volkswagen.

Reliving these memories doesn’t make the pain of her loss any easier, but it is the closest I can get to feeling her presence without actually being in it. I know there has to be a way to deal with it in a healthy way.

Jordyn Kruse, a 21-year-old LIM student, has kept every birthday card she’s ever received in a box since she was in fifth grade.

“It doesn’t matter if the person is still in my life, we naturally drifted apart," she says. or it’s someone that I had a major falling out with, they were important to me at one point and loved me enough to celebrate me, which feels important.”

Instead of painting black nail polish over the faces of her ex-friend's pictures (fine, I’ve done that), Jordyn has found a way to honor these relationships—even though some of them no longer exist.

“The box is hidden in the back of my closet, so it doesn’t get too much attention. But when I do go through the collection of cards, it’s nice to remember the details about that time in my life I had otherwise forgotten,” she says, “It is definitely more sweet than bitter to return to.”

In a 2012 New York Times article called “What is Nostalgia Good For?,” John Tierney quotes Dr. Clay Routledge, a social psychologist at North Dakota State University.

“We see nostalgia as a psychological resource that people can dip into to conjure up the evidence that they need to assure themselves that they're valued,” he says.

To Jordyn’s point, nostalgia can be a reminder of how loved you are.

It doesn’t matter if that person is in your life anymore because there is no denying that those emotions existed, that you had them to lose in the first place.

Whether we want to accept it or not, life does go on. I find that I try to hide in the past, and you might too, but this can actually prevent you from establishing new connections.

“Managers can take advantage of nostalgia’s social nature to promote strong relationships and teams,” Routledge says. “Encouraging employees to share nostalgic stories with team members may help them build deeper connections because

nostalgia orients people toward social goals.”

Sometimes blasting your radio, looking through pictures, or sifting through memorabilia is tempting— but in some cases, it might actually be holding you back from life.

“Instead of thinking about how amazing that career triumph was, think about how it got you to where you are today. Thorin Klosowski, an editor at Wirecutter, says in an article from LifeHacker. “Instead of saying, ‘those were the days,’ and leaving it at that, think about it from a more existential perspective with a question like, ‘what has my life meant since then?’”

Sometimes I feel like I cannot express this longing for the past to the people around me, but that is why there is therapy. Going to therapy has given me an outlet.

Nostalgia can be harmful when it’s dealt with in an unhealthy way.

This is not to say that you cannot honor the past, but relying too much on objects and images or anything that makes you nostalgic can be harmful. Trust me, I would rather take any memorabilia from my grandmother's life than have nothing at all. However, it is important to make sure it does not become an addiction.

Personally, I feel that one of the fears that stem from my excessive nostalgia is that I will forget about my grandma. But, that's not true.

There are so many more things to be nostalgic about, like watching my baby cousins be born and grow up right after she passed.

That is to say: if possible, take a wide view and achieve something like nostalgia for something as it happens. Then let it live there.

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runway report speed style This past fashion month, designers told us to strap in. On the catwalk, it was all about luxury aesthetics coming together with edgy biker styling choices.

In celebration of International Women’s History Month, Dior showed styles adorned with padded vests and leather opera gloves, closely resembling a BMX uniform. Hermés dialed back the message just a tad by showing looks composed of different leather layers.

Houses like Balmain dove fully into the theme, showcasing looks that could only be described as protective. Leather harnesses and vests were presented next to gold-shielded armor, while biker jackets made out of denim with padded inserts were also spotted. Whether it be an abundance of leather, or straps and belts all around a garment, it seems like the hottest accessory for next season might be a motorcycle.

chic wrapped The low-key look of a hood is appearing on the runway as an undercover fall staple. Hoods have become fashion forward as an elegant component to a Coperni little black dress that adds just the right amount of drama. Tom Ford also included casual yet chic hoods with knit, satin, leather, and velour. Dion Lee showcases a modern look for winter wear with puffer and knit hoods, adding a flexible nylon fabric for mobility. Richard Quinn took care of all the drama with the brand’s whimsical collection this season as the designer presented avant garde hoods with vibrant floral prints that wrap around or lay over the head. The house of Alaia showcased several hooded styles throughout their collection, but this time with “tightly wrapped” face covers—so chic!

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dressed for fluff The winter coat aesthetic is being taken down to our feet. Rick Owens demonstrates this perfectly with thighhigh sherpa heels with cutouts along the back of the leg. Off-White walks the same path, showing sherpa boots with a more relaxed look that pools around the ankles. Others decided to remove the fluff, no pun intended, and go with simple furry heels and flats. Ottolinger’s take involves a pair of dramatic black faux-fur slip ons. We also saw a white faux fur heel from the new Bottega Veneta by Matthieu Blazy. Loewe brings us full circle with a pair of gray faux fur sneakers–because style and comfort are not mutually exclusive.

HiGh Rise The miniskirt trend has been all the rage since Miu Miu released an ultra mini khaki skirt for their Spring 2022 collection. And apparently, that silhouette is going nowhere. Several designers have now contributed to the conversation with their own iterations.

Diesel brought out ultra mini leather and denim skirts to their first runway showcase in several years. Laquan Smith also showcased leather skirts in addition to a sherpa fabric perfect for fall, cementing the idea that regardless of the weather, this trend is here to stay. At Courreges, ultra miniskirts came in multiple different materials like mirrored, patent, and matte leather. No matter what fabric you decide your miniskirt should be made of, just make sure it’s ultra mini!

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unnatural woman

why the no-makeup trend did more harm than good By isabella ortiz Social media has promoted unrealistic beauty standards for young women. Since 2020, showing a more natural look has become popular—wearing little-to-no makeup with the skin appearing clean and fresh. Celebrities and influencers like Alicia Keys and Lady Gaga began flaunting their blemish and pore-free skin. The goal was to promote all skin types and help girls to feel more confident; the idea was to encourage an inclusive society that diminishes the toxic beauty standards young women have become accustomed to with filters and Photoshop.

Unfortunately, the idea has severely backfired; many young women have instead felt alienated by the notion that if their skin is not naturally clear, they are not beautiful.

“Social media is about posting your ‘best’ moments—when you look and feel the most confident,” says Abby, an 18-year-old LIM student. “I would never post myself without makeup unless it was for my close friends.”

For many women, shifting to no makeup does not diminish their insecurities; it causes more panic and stress.

“Women...employ cosmetics to manipulate their appearance, and in so doing, may also benefit from a boost in positive self perception and well-being that appears to be associated with wearing makeup,” reports a 2006 study published in the Journal of Applied Social Psychology titled “Cosmetics: They Influence More than Caucasian Female Facial Attractiveness.”

The no makeup trend was a shock to women because they have been programmed to believe makeup is a necessity. The shift towards lighter coverage or no makeup at all causes more self consciousness due to the fact they are not used to embracing their natural skin.

Women have felt this association so strongly for so long that it makes sense for them to feel insecure about the “natural” push. To many, this started to feel like just another impossible beauty standard like those that have been reinforced in the media for many decades, most recently in social media.

In many ways, the natural movement was seen as an antidote to a social media

Inclusivity in beauty is a goal our society is working towards, but it needs to come with honesty culture that routinely made women feel bad about how they looked. In March 2020, The Intercept revealed an internal document from TikTok that discouraged promoting content from viewers with “ugly facial looks.” TikTok told its moderators that videos of people with “abnormal body shape,” “too many wrinkles,” “obvious facial scars” and “facial deformities (not limited to: eye disorders, crooked mouth disease and other “disabilities” are “less attractive”, not worthy to be recommended to new users.” TikTok is purposefully creating an algorithm that revolves around unachievable beauty standards.

“There are times where I feel the need to take breaks from TikTok,” says Sarah, an 18-year-old FIT student from New York. “It can be toxic, and I find myself nitpicking things about myself that I wasn’t insecure about before.”

The internal TikTok document dismissing “ugly” looks appeared about a year into the natural trend and resulted in makeup-free

looks that also happened to be flawless.

The selective content TikTok pushed had the effect of creating a less inclusive space as part of a movement whose intention was inclusivity.

Self-esteem and comparison is not a new concept; women have felt compelled to uphold and abide by societal standards for centuries. Beauty trends change very quickly, and keeping up can become overwhelming. A new trend specifically on TikTok that has gained traction is “glowy skin.” The trend promotes having clear, moisturized, and blemish-free skin—a near impossible overlap with the natural trend.

Many young women wish to have clear skin, but it is not attainable for most.

Hormonal acne is very common in women; breakouts can be due to stress, menstrual cycle, diet, or even the fact that sometimes you got a pimple, and that’s okay. The problem is creators on TikTok will post a video of their skin care routine where their tip for clear skin is “just wash your face.” Social media favors women with no blemishes, scars, texture or even discoloration, couched as “natural.”

The reality is that most TikTok content creators use the beauty filter, a fact which ought to put a consumer’s anxieties into perspective. The feature blurs, smooths and lessens the appearance of texture and acne, which gives a false reality of how someone’s skin truly looks.

“Finding a balance is key when on social media. Constantly scrolling on Instagram or TikTok—it is inevitable, you will feel insecure,” says Briana, a 20-year-old LIM student. “I am aware of the beauty trends but I only participate in the one’s I feel most confident in.”

Inclusivity in beauty is a goal our society is working towards, but it needs to come with honesty. Glorified beauty trends like the natural movement are being pushed, but the photos continue to have filters; in some cases, the women have some makeup on but portray as if they don’t.

Unfortunately, this means the “natural” trend can be added to the long list of beauty standards that become standardized because they are unattainable—not the other way around.

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DISHING T H E DI RT E M B R AC I N G T H E D I R T Y V EG A N L I F E S T Y L E I N N YC

BY E L A R A M O N TA N A When you think of veganism, what comes to mind? Bland tofu?

Boring salads? What about chili cheese fries, tacos, and pizza?

As veganism grows in popularity, many people have begun to challenge what it truly means to be vegan, resulting in the concept of dirty veganism: that is, eating junk food that is free of animal products.

In New York City, more and more restaurants are surfacing whose menus exclusively serve delectably dirty vegan dishes. As a meat eater, I decided to go out and see just what the dirty vegan lifestyle is all about.

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Spicy Moon The first restaurant on our roster is Spicy Moon Szechuan, a vegetarian restaurant with locations in both the West and East Villages. Spicy Moon serves up classic Szechuan cuisine with very limited use of animal products.

When I first entered the neon pink dining room, I was warmly welcomed by the staff and seated promptly.

The restaurant’s overall ambiance was youthful and eclectic, with fun art on the walls and modern pop songs playing. The walls feature numerous collages possessing their own whimsical themes—my personal favorite was the disco-themed nook with reflective streamers and strobe lights.

The menu offers everything from a Spicy Tofu Bao Bun to your classic Veggie Fried Rice with Beyond Meat. I opted for the Kung Pao Style—which comes with either tofu or fried mixed vegetables—as well as Cold Sesame Noodles and Fried Vegetable Dumplings.

As they brought out the Kung Pao Style plate, I couldn’t help but notice its enticingly tangy scent. When I dug in, I was struck by the crispiness of the fried breading.

The sauce had a subtle kick that complemented the fried food nicely without making the dish soggy.

Each bite had me coming back for more and made me forget that I wasn’t eating meat.

The Fried Vegetable Dumplings—with a kale-based filling—were light, refreshing, and flavorful. A zesty aftertaste made it the perfect palette cleanser despite being greasy and fried. The overall combination of greasiness and zestiness combined to encapsulate a perfect dirty vegan dish.

The dish that ended up being a disappointment, however, was the Cold Sesame Noodles, which were bland and rather dry. The sauce used for the noodles had a rather peculiar and scratchy texture that had me reaching for my water. Skip this one.

Spicy Moon is fairly affordable, with prices ranging from $3.50 for a quick bite to $19.95 for a full-sized dish.

The portion sizes are also perfect for sharing.

Overall, Spicy Moon’s indulgent menu is the perfect introduction to dirty veganism and will make any meat-eater forget that they’re eating a plant-based meal.

M a r t y ’s V B u r g e r s Next up, we have the small yet illustrious Marty’s VBurgers, a fast food spot in Midtown East that is home to a variety of greasy all-American classics that are 100% vegan. If you are wondering, Marty is actually a real person who’s dedicated his life to making veganism more accessible.

MartyV’s is quaint with fairly simplistic theming.

The only place to sit is a cozy two-seat table just outside.

The staff was very kind and quite accommodating towards customers.

With tons of mouth-watering options like animal style fries, drumsticks, and chick’n sandwiches, I had plenty of deliciousness to choose from. In the end, I had to go with their World Famous Burger as well as their Cajun Mac. The highly anticipated burger lived up to its name, with a rich smoky flavor and a subtle sweetness. The patty itself is an in-house made Beyond burger—which you can also purchase in-store to make at home—that has a smooth texture that many veggie patties often lack. The slight char of the patty in combination with the gooey vegan cheese and crispy lettuce made for an overall fantastic burger.

When it came to the Mac & “Cheese,” the flavor was quite unexpected. At first, the intoxicating aroma of cajun spices piqued my interest, but something was amiss when I dug in. Though the overall flavor was tasty—reminiscent of Knorr’s Herb and Butter Rice—it had no resemblance to the classic Mac and Cheese taste.

This burger joint is worth a visit. With an incredibly smoky burger and a price that won’t break the bank, Marty’s will win you over and have you craving a v-burger rather than a real one.

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S c r e a m e r ’s Pi z z a

Va n Le e u w e n

This Greenpoint pizza place opened in 2016 and serves up all-vegan slices as well as other pizzeria staples like garlic knots and calzones.

The final stop on my dirty vegan tour is Van Leeuwen Ice Cream. Though not entirely vegan, this ice creamery carries over 20 different vegan flavors. With locations spanning across all cities, it has quickly become every vegan’s go-to scoop.

When you walk into Screamer’s Pizzeria, you’ll get the vibe of any typical NY pizza joint, with the aroma of fresh pizza dough baking in the back. The staff was generally pleasant as well, offering their own recommendations.

The menu—written on a mirror wall—has a nice variety of all the classics as well as pies unique to the place, such as their Screamer slice. I decided on a slice of classic cheese and a slice of their Clean Slide Pizza—a regular base slice with long hot pepper, pesto, broccolini, and seitan sausage.

The crust was the perfect amount of golden brown, with a crispy exterior and fluffy interior.

The cheese was also a big hit, retaining an authentic taste rarely found in vegan cheese. The sweetness of the tomato sauce was perhaps my favorite part of both slices.

The Clean Slide Slice had a very unique taste, with all of the toppings’ flavors melting together perfectly. Not to mention the little kick that comes from the pepper. My main quip with both slices, however, was that you could tell that the single slice pies had been sitting out for a while; I could taste the aging in the brittleness of the cheese.

No matter where you go, the atmosphere is clean and colorful with pastels. Whimsical motifs adorn the parlor. The sweet scent of vanilla from the waffle cones filled the space and set the mood. And the staff was accommodating when it came to taste-testing myriad flavors.

While Van Leeuwen offers a wide variety of flavors, the vegan options were limited, and most were sold out, which I suppose is a good sign. Four flavors were available, and bases included oat milk, coconut milk, or cashew milk.

I chose the Churro and Fudge flavor made with oat milk and the Cookie Crumble Strawberry Jam made with cashew milk. Both were incredibly creamy and had a smooth, rich consistency. You can sense the ice cream is made with high quality ingredients.

Of the two I ate, the standout was the vegan Cookie Crumble Strawberry Jam scoop. This flavor is on the sweeter side but is balanced by refreshing strawberry clusters. This in combination with the crunch of the cookie chunks created an excellent texture.

Screamer’s is somewhat expensive at five dollars for a single slice. But the pricing is reflected in their food, as the high quality ingredients and the impressive slice size are undeniable.

The Churro and Fudge scoop, on the other hand, was a miss for me. The mixture of the super sweet fudge swirl and the cinnamon ice cream was overbearing. It was super heavy, and I was only able to take a few bites.

Ultimately, I left Screamer’s Pizzeria with a sense of indifference. This is a fantastic spot for vegans looking for a slice, but pales in comparison to a regular pizza place.

As expected, the price points were high: around $6 for a single scoop. However, the high quality ingredients as well as the creamy and delicious flavors—rare for vegan ice cream—makes for a great option.

Unsurprisingly, Van Leeuwen lives up to its reputation, serving as a wonderful plant-based alternative for a sweet treat.

Will I turn to veganism now that it can be dirty? To be frank, no. But this has definitely opened my eyes to the vastness of plant-based eating. I will undoubtedly seek vegan options again.

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By Kally compton

Poems & Illustrations Part I

menthol Like vines suffocate brick they’re growing—beautiful, our mothers’ hair, my father’s beard, lost teeth, treasure under the sink, shattered from hot you’re-a-brat tension, stuck together with nail glue and Lisa Frank stickers, tucked, cinched, like your air being stolen, swept from cold breath, wrench in your gut, tightly tucked static sweeping your ears, “I hate you” scribbled 23 times, a locked diary, a fuzzy sequined notebook and three half-finished compositions, stained by Starbucks, hugged by chewed gum and Dum-Dums, glitter gel love letters melting gushing Tumblr oil spills down my back, run through me, pour out of me, unravel me, click rewind tapes tangled ten times till they say: enough.

No more water bottle whiskey, stolen Virginia Slims, sweat stains sticky, only vodka sours, Camel Crushes, kiss me.

chapped lips stained shut Sucking on gemstones, sipping on rose quartz to make them love me.

It’s like when Dorothy gets to Oz. New year, same thing.

I feel sepia most days, and I choke on crystals now.

Could she always speak in rainbows or is that just what I wanted to be loud.

Soft whispers of Jazz Club gracing my nostrils rubbed off on borrowed satin that once caught dreams or thoughts when they couldn’t sleep.

Interrupting rest for a Girl, never interrupted.

If I play the villain you’ll be the sweet pea.

Melting rocket pops, freezer burnt veggies, to keep company.

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A place in the sun H o l ly T h a g g a r d o f S u p e r g o o p ! by emma defelice

Holly Thaggard was studying education at Louisiana State University when she received the news that one of her close friends was diagnosed with skin cancer.

She discussed it with her roommate, who was in her dermatology residency.

“SPF is not all about beaches and bikinis,” she remembers her roommate saying. “It’s about that little bit of exposure every day to UVA and UVB that is cumulative.”

That is when the wheels started turning for Thaggard.

She became obsessed with SPF, and years later would create Supergoop!, a skincare brand that emphasizes UV protection in its wide array of health and beauty products.

Holly began her career as a third-grade teacher. After going out for recess every day and watching her students participate in sports, she noticed there was never a tube of sunscreen in sight.

“It was just mind boggling that we were not teaching this healthy habit,” she says. “We were telling kids to wash their hands and wear helmets on their bikes and buckle their seatbelts, but we weren’t teaching them to protect their skin.”

Both of Holly’s parents were entrepreneurs and told her that if she wanted to do something bigger, she should “look for the white space and do something that has never been done before.”

One in every five people will be diagnosed with skin cancer in their lifetime, but it is also one of the most preventable forms of cancer: one needs only to wear sunscreen daily, and not just when planning to be in direct sunlight. Holly considered this and decided it was important to introduce SPF to a broader market.

“If we were going to get people to wear SPF every single day, it was only going to be through product innovation, creating game changing solutions that address every skin type,” Holly says. “There is no one size fits all with SPF.” When developing a new product, Holly works closely with the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, which is the largest specialty organization in the United States exclusively representing dermatologic surgeons who have unique training and experience to treat the health, function, and beauty of skin throughout every stage of life.

Holly has an innovative and interesting marketing strategy; rather than instilling fear, she makes her ideas fun and presentable. Some of the most popular products from Supergoop! include their Glowscreen, Glow Stick, and Unseen Sunscreen. These products protect skin from the sun, and they also act as a great base for makeup and will help it last all day.

Holly and her team are currently working on the launch of their Defense Refresh Setting Mist, which should be hitting the shelves later this year.

In addition to developing new products, Holly has watched her career come full circle: she works with the program Ounce by Ounce, which donates sun care products to schools and classrooms in order to teach them to make a habit of protecting their skin.

Since then, Supergoop! has now donated more than 4,300 bottles of SPF to more than 1,600 classrooms and youth organizations.

“Since sun exposure is cumulative throughout our lifetime, it is super important to keep our little ones protected,” she says.

Supergoop! was launched in 2004, a time when SPF was largely lacking in the beauty industry, only becoming prevalent during the spring and summer months.

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Indisposed Nicalina Del Rosario Landon Rice

Khayla Biscoe

photography

creative director

Jenna Filingeri

Sofia Naranjo

styling director

fashion director

Sohl Garibaldo Jennifer Felder Bianca Schwinghammer

Aubrey Hepner Emily White

stylists

Bianca Agnes Isabella Casale Ethan Douglas Essence Mills Aaron Wigfall Tianai Zhou

hair & Makeup Kally Compton

production director

Kally Compton

production coordinator

Models

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MODEL ABOVE WEARS: Pier Antonio Gaspari—Crop Top; Showroom 7—Skirt; Showroom 7—Earrings MODEL RIGHT WEARS: Iris Van Herpen FW’15—Top; Zara—Skirt; & Other Stories—Underpinning

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MODEL LEFT WEARS: Iris Van Herpen FW’15—Top; Zara—Skirt; & Other Stories—Underpinning MODEL RIGHT WEARS: Florence Canonoy—Pearl Harness; Pier Antonio Gaspari—Top; Pier Antonio Gaspari—Bottom 36 The Lexington Line • S/S 22 • vol 8 • no 2

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MODEL LEFT WEARS: Florence Canonoy—Pearl Harness; Pier Antonio Gaspari—Top; Pier Antonio Gaspari—Bottom MODEL RIGHT WEARS: Showroom 7—Two Piece Dress

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MODEL LEFT WEARS: Dolce and Gabanna—Dress; Zara—Underpinning; Florence Canonoy—Pearl Corset MODEL RIGHT WEARS: Pier Antonio Gaspari—Top

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MODEL WEARS: Pier Antonio Gaspari—Top

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MODEL LEFT WEARS: Caroline Forsyth—Top; Caroline Forsyth—Skirt; Showroom 7—Earrings MODEL RIGHT WEARS: Pier Antonio Gaspari—Top

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MODEL LEFT WEARS: Showroom 7—Two Piece Set MODEL RIGHT WEARS: Marc Jacobs—Dress

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MODEL LEFT WEARS: Caroline Forsyth—Top MODEL RIGHT WEARS: Amen—Top; Les Copains—Shorts

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MODEL LEFT WEARS: Rich Fashion—Two Piece; Showroom 7—Chain Necklace MODEL RIGHT WEARS: Jean Paul Gaultier—Dress; Zara—Underpinning; Showroom 7—Earrings

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MODEL LEFT WEARS: Shuxuan Li—Dress MODEL RIGHT WEARS: Shuxuan Li—Jumpsuit

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MODEL WEARS: Shuxuan Li—Jumpsuit

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MODEL WEARS: Dolls Kill—Dress 62

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Breaking into Records Vinyl is Back. Here’s What To Do.

By Scout O’Donnell

Let’s set the record straight—listening to vinyl has never gone completely out of style, but it is making a major comeback. In only one year, vinyl sales doubled, with twice as many units sold in 2021 compared to 2020, and for the first time since 1991, vinyl records are outselling CDs. Now more than ever, our world needs to take a step back in our music consumption and remember what it’s like to truly listen to an album. Here’s everything you need to know if you’re interested in going analog: a compilation of the best record players for easy listening in spaces big or small and a specially-curated starter pack for vinyl listeners.

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Find the right Turntable for You For the beginners: Crosley Cruiser Deluxe with Bluetooth $75 This turntable is perfect for easy listening in small spaces.

A favorite pick for beginners looking to dip their toe in vinyl, the Cruiser Deluxe is a bestseller and one of the easiest record players to find. With three speeds, built-in Bluetooth receiver, and full range built-in speakers, this turntable gives you everything you need to branch into vinyl without breaking the bank. Bonus: it is designed to look like a suitcase and comes in a variety of colors and materials, such as mustard-colored velvet, white-washed wood, or even blue denim!

For the aesthetes: Victrola Cambridge 4-in-1 Farmhouse Turntable $120 (often on sale for ~$75) If you want a record player that will give excellent sound while adding character to any room, this one’s for you.

As an elevated version of the Crosley Cruiser, this 4-in1 turntable from Victrola is a step up for a beginners’ turntable and designed to look vintage. It includes Bluetooth and a radio controlled by a vintage-style knob.

Got your own sound system? This machine comes with an RCA line out for connecting to external speakers.

For the expert listeners: Audio-Technica AT-LP60X-BT Fully Automatic Belt Drive Stereo Turntable $199 This option from Audio-Technica is an elevated—but still affordable—option for more experienced listeners.

While this turntable is for people who already have a speaker system, you can also listen with headphones or any device that has Bluetooth connectivity. But don’t be afraid of losing sound quality by using the Bluetooth feature; this turntable works with devices that support aptX codec, which offers superior sound quality using a wireless connection. Important note: the other turntables mentioned can play records at three speeds, 33 ⅓, 45, and 78 RPM, but this player is only compatible with 33 ⅓ or 45 RPM discs. RPM stands for rotations per minute, and most standard 12-inch vinyl records spin at 33 ⅓ RPM.

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The Starter Pack for Vinyl Listeners If you’ve ever heard a vinyl record, you know listening to an album the good ol’ fashioned way is very different from simply downloading an album on Spotify. All in all, a vinyl record feels like you’re hearing a story come to life with each rotation, and the build-up of this story lies in the dramatic pauses in between—particularly in the interlude between side 1 and side 2. In order to immerse yourself in a vinyl record, you have to be fully present, listening and ready to flip the disc whenever

you hear a pause. In today’s world, where most skip through 20+ songs to find the one they want to listen to, vinyl gently reminds us that albums were meant to be listened to as an experience from beginning to end.

Truly excellent records take advantage of this magic.

With this in mind, I pooled together my top 10 vinyl records that everybody needs to have in their collection, each one sharing a story completely different from the next.

Kendrick Lamar - good kid, m.A.A.d city Label: TDE/Aftermath/Interscope Genre: Hip-Hop � Year: 2012 The album is visceral and proceeds with the intensity of a novel; it also features some of the best rapping we’ve heard this century.

Or ever.

Nick Drake - Pink Moon?

Label: Island Genre: Folk � Year: 1972 Drake’s authentic, gentle voice mixed with the hues of a warm evening envelop you in a sense of serenity.

ODESZA - In Return Label: Counter/Ninja Tune Genre: Electronic/Synth-Pop � Year: 2014 This is an excellent album to put on while doing everything from deep cleaning the house to getting “in the zone” before a night out.

Miles Davis - Kind of Blue Label: Columbia Records Genre: Jazz � Year: 1959 Miles’s modal jazz masterpiece might be the most important buy on this list. His genius resounds 63 years later.

Pink Floyd - The Dark Side of the Moon Label: Harvest/Capitol Genre: Progressive Rock/Psychedelia � Year: 1973 For an album that touches on myriad subjects like good vs. evil, war, mental health, and corporate greed, the whole listening experience is surprisingly easy.

Billie Eilish - When We All Fall Asleep Where Do We Go? Label: Darkroom/Interscope Genre: Pop � Year: 2019 With a perfect mix of upbeat energy and slower cry-in-your-car songs, you can put this record on no matter how you’re feeling.

Bob Marley - Legend Label: Island/Tuff Gong Genre: Reggae � Year: 1984 (recorded 1972-1983) Bob Marley can make you feel good, but he also has an unparalleled ability to share deep messages about politics and sociocultural issues in a tone that is approachable but impactful.

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The Smiths - The Queen is Dead Label: Rough Trade Genre: Post-Punk/Alternative Rock � Year: 1984 I still can’t help myself from singing every word whenever I put it on my turntable.

Chance the Rapper - Coloring Book Label: Self-Released Mixtape Genre: Hip-Hop � Year: 2016 As the ultimate feel-good record, it is filled with anthems for a top-down summer.

The War on Drugs - A Deeper Understanding Label: Atlantic Genre: Rock � Year: 2017 Each song tells a story of its own, with songs like “Pain,” whose catchy chorus was influenced by the Buddhist principle relating to suffering and desire.

Where to Start Building Your Collection Your Local Record Store

Newbury Comics

In the age of Spotify, Apple Music, and YouTube, brickand-mortar record stores need our business more than ever, and shopping local makes a difference. Record Store Day is one of the many reasons people love to shop independent music stores—twice a year, record stores across the nation put out exclusive, limited edition vinyl records that you can’t get anywhere else.

This day attracts music fanatics of all kinds, and many of the die-hard fans wait outside their record store hours before opening. Even if the next record store day is far away, you can visit recordstoreday.com/stores to locate your closest independent record store.

If you’ve lived in New England before or have walked Newbury Street in Boston, you’ve probably passed by a Newbury Comics once or twice. While this was originally an independent record store, since their founding in 1978, Newbury Comics has expanded across the New England area and now holds 28 stores in five different states. For a top-notch selection, shop Newbury Comics in-person or online to find all your favorite records in one place.

Rough Trade Rough Trade NYC is a record store owned by the well-known London-based record label Rough Trade, known for signing some of rock’s best artists like The Smiths and The Strokes. Rough Trade only has one store outside of England, its new location in Rockefeller Center. As both a record label and a store, you are guaranteed to find an album or new artist you can’t believe you didn’t discover earlier. For a perfect Sunday in the city, make the trip to midtown and grab a coffee next door at Café Grumpy before spending the afternoon sifting through Rough Trade’s collection of over 10,000 records.

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Stuck together sweet cakes" “You’re golden,” butter Cookies, kisses, and savory dishes like “You’re my person.”

I can’t cook anymore, look through the cabinets for anything.

Talking tastes sour.

Swallowing is barbed wire.

Yet, I have crumbs in my bed they left behind.

I’ll pack them in a ziplock, tuck them in my pocket.

They’re not gone—just misplaced.

I’m not lost, just making space for new kitchen cabinets.

Mix-matched mugs, spoons bent in, chipped cups topped with paper towels to wipe up spills from our kin.

for rent The house was a passing place. I extended the lease two years too long. No room for growing vines or brown paper bouquets. No room for clothing racks, sequins, or all-black silks.

No room for boxes that never get put away.

That I wanted a big closet to pretend in. A dishwasher that washes the chapstick off green glasses. A washer to clean the mud from my creased Jordans.

A big window. So I can see the world that sits before them. So the gold can watch over me. An invitation to dance.

Or to watch the rainfall, carry me.

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if lust were long walks on the beach We took breaths of sunsets and choked on butterflies to feel alive.

Neon gushed through our insides, inflaming ultraviolets. A forest fire.

But only the flowers burn.

Sweet desire, I’m tired.

By Kally compton

Poems & Illustrations Part II

why cooking is more fun than cleaning

no audio Sometimes silence sounds like children playing on a playground. The sweet laughter and creaky swing sets, the sand in your shoes and your hair.

You fell a lot. But who the hell cares.

Sometimes silence sounds like the ocean. The Atlantic at 6 a.m. in the month of June. Right at the edge of the water where the waves kiss your toes and you inhale the burst of first light orange.

april It’s 2 a.m.

They can only see with their fingertips.

Stipples of streetlight drip through the blinds like falling stars.

They’re tangled in blankets belonging to someone else. Their only concern is whispering the language they shared. No one else.

The crickets chirp in the April night. Humming, humming.

They slept beside each other entangled, erotic. But now, estranged, out of sight.

Their language is dead.

Only faded scenes and the pieces of past promises scotch-taped together.

But 2 a.m., then, felt like forever.

Sometimes silence sounds like a heartbeat. But not your own. The one that made a tune with you. The bump electrifies your skin and deepens your lungs. But no more heavy breathing, only waiting, wanting, and leaving. Back then it was self-loved someone symphony.

Sometimes silence sounds like you. How you talk behind your back. How you speak you’re not hungry but you say you want to spend your last $10 for the week on a burger.

You say sweet nothings, you shout slurs about you, you whisper, “you look good today” faintly so that God can’t even hear you.

Sometimes silence sounds like everything all at once. Can you have that by tonight? When can you hang out? Have you paid for this? Did you schedule that? Cars, planes, people in the street existing and functioning, fulfilling their economic corporate needs.

Sometimes silence sounds like an old phone the one that hangs on the wall. Like getting a call from someone you weren’t expecting. You answer because you think it’s them but it’s not. You’re not rude so you stay and chat.

Sometimes silence is the wind whispering through your hair. The holes in your sleeves snagged from the fences.

Walls you put up painted pink with each stained sheet.

Strangled from cotton each thread sinks deep.

Sometimes silence is the buzzing of the lights on the walls, tucked on shelves and behind the window. It creeps in from the street. Comes in the door without invitation. It’s a pleasant unwelcome guest.

Sometimes silence is vacant. Rooms filled with dust.

Neighbors to welcome you home. Old lovers with not much love at all. You put up your sign no vacancy no more.

Sometimes silence is a sunset. so bright and blissful you close your eyes and breathe in the now, push over the later and breathe out the before.

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The Candles that Change Everything

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The fashion on Euphoria is insane… literally.

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If

there is one thing that Euphoria is known for, it’s fashion. It’s charming, if also a little ridiculous, to see Maddy wearing custom Dior pieces on her way home from her babysitting job.

When I was in high school, I never had the freedom that the students of Euphoria High have. Granted, I attended a charter school where uniforms were implemented, but there are certain choices we would’ve been in serious trouble for making. There were no rhinestone-dramatic eye looks at 7 a.m. AP classes, and heels for school were without a doubt a no-no—no matter whose play we were set to star in.

But if I had to re-costume my high school experience, I would without a doubt throw some designer pieces into the mix. And when you dive deep into the costuming for Euphoria, season two specifically, you get the sense that this is exactly the fantasy the show’s stylist, Heidi Bivens, is out to achieve.

Bivens has been the costume designer for Euphoria since the show first aired in 2019.

After getting her start in the ‘90s, first as a journalist and then as a stylist for magazines like Paper and W, she made her entrance into the world of costume design as an assistant on the set of Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind—the film that introduced the fashion world to the manic pixie dream girl.

Bivens also earned her reputation dressing young kids on the sets of Mid90s and Spring Breakers—the latter a cult classic filled with neon balaclava-and-bikini looks.

“In terms of style, I played it safe the first season,” Bivens recently told Interview Magazine. “I really tried to be conscious of making it realistic, so that the audience couldn’t really pick the story apart.”

But in season two, “that went out the window, because I just wanted to have fun. Maude Apatow’s character, for example, is wearing Miu Miu. Like, she can’t afford Miu Miu, her parents aren’t buying her Miu Miu, but I said, ‘Fuck it. She looks great in it.’”

And Lexi is far from the only character that Bivens transforms through fashion. Even the characters that are designed to look normal, like Rue and Elliot, are all dripped down in designer. Overall, outrageousness is

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the point, so let’s look at some of her more outrageous choices.

Maddy Perez, portrayed by actor and fashion insider Alexa Demie, is the show’s unofficial fashion correspondent, turning looks since season one. She quickly became the it-girl of the series, and thousands of fans have been recreating her looks on social media.

In season two, she has taken it further, with looks that belong on a red carpet, not in the hallways of a public high school.

In episode one alone, she wore a dress and matching gloves by designer Aiden Euan, which retails for $230, styled with a pair of Amina Muaddi heels which go for—wait for it—$2,274. While high schoolers may splurge

A show like Euphoria offers fashionistas as many noteworthy moments as a magazine spread on items here and there, this is certainly not Gossip Girl. The designer also created a lavender terry cloth set for Maddy, which we can only assume retails for around the same as the dress.

But one of her boldest choices this season was actually a custom Dior Saddle Bag—a purse that retails anywhere between $3K and $5K, an amount that could be used for Maddy’s college fund, or possibly as the downpayment for a really nice car. I can selfishly say, I am happy she went with the bag instead.

Accessories seem to be Maddy’s soft spot, as she was spotted in episode five wearing Balenciaga black stretch heeled sandals, a calm $975 pair of heels, just to hang out at her friend’s house.

The girls of Euphoria love brand names, especially Marc Jacobs. In episode three, amidst a montage of looks, Cassie, played by Sydney Sweeney, wears a Marc Jacobs The Prom Dress ($300) for a regular day at school.

Casual. For her birthday, and in an effort to avoid being outshined, Maddy wore a Marc Jacobs x Devon Lee Carlson Devon Slip Dress

for $225. We’ll give her that one, it was her birthday after all.

Bivens’s ability to keep her thumb firmly placed on the industry’s pulse is probably the most realistic aspect of these teenagers’ fashion. Although they might not be able to afford them, the kids of Euphoria are definitely fashion informed, and the brands they are wearing are brands that interest real teenagers in real high schools across America. Perhaps what they wear represents a teenager’s imagined version of themselves, not the real thing.

There are dozens of other Easter egg fashion moments throughout the season. Kat, played

by Barbie Ferreira, in the Mimi Wade Liquid Fairy Baby Doll dress ($2,165) she wore to a New Year’s Eve house party; Elliot, portrayed

by Dominick Fike, in the Telfar hoodie ($280) he wore to school; Jules, Hunter Schafer, in KNWLS Spring 2020, designs that can retail anywhere from $500 to $700; and Maddy, once again showing her dominance, in Blumarine Spring 2018. The girls that get it, get it, and the girls that don’t, don't.

The reality, or lack thereof, of Euphoria’s costumes isn’t stopping anyone from partaking in the fangirling, even big time designers. During episode seven, Maddy watched Lexi’s high school theater production in head-to-toe Jacquemus, also wearing the brand casually in between classes.

The audience was gagged to say the least, including Simon Porte Jacquemus himself, who posted screen grabs from the episode on his official Instagram account.

One of my personal favorite fashion moments came from a character that isn’t even associated with fashion. In the season premiere, Rue Bennett, played by Zendaya, wore a vintage Jean Paul Gaultier vest paired with vintage Roberto Cavalli pants. Now, vintage implies that the pieces are rather dated, and they could have somehow ended up at a thrift store, but the fact that Rue, a struggling drug addict, was able to spot these two pieces on a rack, or that they would be at a price range affordable to her, has to be the most camp idea presented in season two.

“The second picture is my reaction,” the designer wrote about an image of Maddy clapping and cheering.

But sometimes, camp is what’s necessary.

The “high schoolers doing high schooler things” trope is nothing new to television.

But what Euphoria offers is much different.

Taking a mundane experience and filtering it through a fashion lens could be the secret to Euphoria’s success.

For fashion die-hards, Euphoria has served as a two-season-long game of Where’s Waldo?

After each episode, the internet runs to credit all the designer pieces used. Twitter is almost instantly inundated, since most fans live tweet each Sunday, with threads about who wore what. And it’s usually somebody wearing something really, really good.

I also believe that the show’s fashion has resonated so well with audiences because Bivens has a talent for combining high and low. Sometimes, it’s a Steve Madden pump, accessible to most and easily recreated by fans. Other times, the garments pulled are from an up-and-coming designer that the online fashion community is dying to see in the limelight.

The show’s fashion credibility, and the stars it has created, have also begun to leak out into the real world. Actors like Hunter Schafer and Chloe Cherry recently walked fashion shows during Milan Fashion Week in February, for Prada and Blumarine, respectively. Even Angus Cloud, who plays Fezco on the show and isn’t known for his fashion at all, sat front row at Coach’s Fall 2022 show during New York Fashion Week.

Sometimes, fantasy is what an audience is looking for in a show. An escape from the everyday, especially in a show with such heavy themes, is what keeps the audience coming back for more. A show like Euphoria offers fashionistas as many noteworthy moments as a magazine spread, so it’s no wonder that the show has had this level of impact. Is it realistic? Maybe not. But the fashion is so good that we don’t really care. In the words of Chaz Michael Michaels, “no one knows what it means. But it’s provocative. It gets the people going!”

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Stylist spotlight: ashley afriyie

by Ashanty Rivera

I know I am not the only one who loves to take my style to the next level at any given opportunity. I might be biased, but accessorizing is the easiest way to do this, whether that be adding a few extra necklaces, throwing on a chunky ring, or switching out your boring old crossbody bag for a bold statement shoulder bag. Accessories are undoubtedly the glue to creating a successful outfit, and if you need anything or anyone else to convince you, here is a celebrity stylist to give you some insight on how and why accessories are important to her and her work.

I love accessories because they are the one thing that will always fit, no matter what size you are.

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Ashley Afriyie assists many celebrity stylists like her close friend and fellow stylist Molly Dickson. Other celebrity stylists that she has worked with include Erin Walsh, Micaela Erlanger, and the duo Jill Lincoln & Jordan Johnson (known as Jill and Jordan). The celebrities she has styled include Euphoria’s Sydney Sweeney, Scarlett Johansson, Kelsea Ballerini, Lupita Nyong’o, Addison Rae, and many more. She has also worked for companies and designers like Gucci and Saks Fifth Avenue, and fashion publications such as Marie Claire. Accessories play a big part in her everyday role as a stylist.

Tell me a bit more about your work. I know you are a part-time stylist, but what do you do in between?

What are some of your favorite moments when working with celebrity clients? Tell me everything!

Currently, I am not at any sort of corporate job.

Previously I was part of Gucci’s PR team, Marie Claire magazine, Saks Fifth Avenue’s corporate events team, and at IMG. After Covid, I had to pivot from these jobs since events were canceled, and that’s when the idea to help as a styling assistant landed on my lap. Now I have an LLC and act as a Brand Consultant. I do a lot of freelancing, so my specialties range from PR to styling to event planning. These were all roles I had prior to me going out on my own. At the moment, I have no plans to become a full-time stylist, but I enjoy working with the stylists I have been lucky to collaborate with!

I’ve had the opportunity to attend events that the everyday person doesn’t get to attend, for example, The Academy Awards red carpet—I got to hold an actual Oscar statue. I have frequently been backstage at shows and concerts, received invitations to some of the most coveted fashion shows, and gotten to meet other celebrities because of their celebrity friend.

What does a typical day of styling look like for you?

Very cliché answer, but with our job, there is no typical day. Depending on the project, e.g. preparing a client for a red carpet/premiere press event or a campaign/ magazine photoshoot, it really varies. However, I typically start off emailing my PR contacts to make sure the looks we are requesting for the events I listed are confirmed. I spend a lot of time following up with designer brands’ PR teams to make sure we get the special pieces we need. I’m usually always browsing Vogue Runway making sure I’m up to date with all the designer shows and have knowledge of the latest collections. Lastly, I stay in constant contact with the talents team to make sure nothing has changed on their event. Especially with Covid, things get canceled at the very last minute or dates will shift.

Is this something you planned on doing when you were young?

Of course, as a child, I wanted to go into a career path that everyone considers “respectable,” i.e. a doctor, lawyer, or politician. I actually thought I wanted to be a lawyer. However, during my freshman year in high school, a fashion merchandising course was introduced, and it was the first time anything remotely fashionrelated was available, so I signed up immediately! After that course, I knew I had to go into fashion and decided to drop the lawyer act. I never looked back.

What are some of the most memorable looks that you have pulled pieces for?

Definitely MERYL STREEP! I got the opportunity to lend a big hand in assisting her stylist, Micaela Erlanger, dressing her in Marc Jacobs for her Don’t Look Up press.

Why do you believe accessories are truly important?

How do you think they can elevate any look and take one’s style to the next level?

I love accessories because they are the one thing that will always fit—no matter what size you are. Accessories enhance looks. You can be wearing something as simple as a basic white T-shirt and jeans, but throw on crazy heel booties or some cool colorful Nike sneakers mixed in with a statement handbag, some jewelry, and voila!

Now the outfit is deemed street-style cool.

Of course, I have to know, what is your absolute favorite way to accessorize, and what is one accessory you simply cannot live without?

All of my friends call me the “bag lady.” I am proud of my designer handbag collection, but to be honest, I do have a slight problem. I bought a bookshelf and turned it into a “bag shelf” because I needed extra space for my bags. It took me years of attending crazy sample sales to get some of the rare designer bags I have, e.g. my Gucci stud bag from the Tom Ford era, or my Chanel bags from when Karl Lagerfeld (RIP) was around. I love my bags and probably would NEVER sell any!

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Fleur demure Tessa Aldridge Khayla Biscoe Kally Compton

Cecilia Beslity Gemma Chambers Elisandra Morales

Creative direction

Models

Emma DeFelice

Beauty Director & MUA Kally Compton Nicalina Del Rosario

Brianna Cacioppo Jenna Filingeri

Photographers

styling

Kally Compton

hair Khayla Biscoe

nails

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Diamond Bomb in shade “How Many Carats?!”

Hands down this glitter highlighter from Fenty Beauty is my favorite. Rihanna really knew what she was doing with this one by making all the girlies glow like fairies. I would wear this glitter every day, and I’ve been through so many containers of it.

It's so easy to apply, and you can use it as more than just a highlighter.

Kally Compton

ector

ion Dir Editorial & Product

Editors’ Picks

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2022 Collection

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This collection, from start to finish, is stunning. I love the mix of colors and neutrals with elegant textures and the nuanced take on classic corsets and chiffon draping.

Glenn Martens is truly a visionary; he stayed true to Haute couture and the JPG brand but was able to create something modern and exciting.

My “Witch’s Lair” Pinterest Board

For years, I have been collecting images of decor that I want to have in my dream home. I am truly a maximalist and my eclectic taste in decor represents that. From foodinspired furniture to lava lamp Christmas trees this Pinterest board is filled with all the weird things I love.

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Slouching Towards Bethlehem

by Joan Didion

This book is my favorite that I have read so far. As a writer, I am heavily inspired by Didion’s work, especially this collection of articles and essays from her late '60s era. I have read her personal essays at the end of the book a million times.

She made me the writer that I am today and her work will continue to inspire so many even after her recent passing.

Labyrinth

Who doesn’t love David Bowie as an actor?! I grew up watching this film with my sisters, and I hold it close to my heart. I have always had an affinity for the odd and magical when it comes to films. The plot, the creatures, and the score of this film are unmatched. It is a classic that I will always return to.

“Trilogy” by The Weeknd

As one of the top 2% of The Weeknd’s Spotify listeners, I can proudly say this is one of my favorite albums. I have been listening to The Weeknd since I was 13 and I go back to this album every year.

My favorite tracks are “The Morning,” “House Of Balloons/ Glass Table Girls,” and "D.D." (a cover of Michael Jackson’s “Dirty Diana.”)

This book includes fiction and nonfiction pieces about culture, art, and fashion in New York City. It’s perfect if you don’t want to commit to a full-length book because it’s a collection of essays and stories.

Kyoto by Phoebe Bridgers

Although I love everything Phoebe Bridgers releases, this song has been on repeat.

Jennifer’s Body

This may seem like a typical horror movie on the surface, but in the past few years, it’s gained a feminist cult following for good reason. I always recommend this for a movie night because it has the right balance of horror and comedy.

Editors’ Picks

Sleeveless by Natasha Stagg

Dior-Eau Sauvage

I make sure to spritz a little on every morning.

Cartier Panthère Watch

This watch has quite literally been glued to my wrist since I got it. A simple silver or gold watch is the perfect little touch for any outfit.

Chunky Black Loafers

Whether they’re from Gucci or ASOS, you can never go wrong with a chunky black loafer. When I don’t feel like putting together a cute outfit, they dress up my look with minimal effort.

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Bath & Body Works Champagne Toast

This is my all-time favorite scent from Bath & Body Works. The scent of champagne, berries, and tangerine will never get old. There is definitely a reason why it’s a bestseller!

Khalid

Khalid has been my favorite artist since I first fell in love with his storytelling. I can almost guarantee if my airpods are in, Khalid is playing.

Victoria Villano Art Director

Editors’ Picks

Kate Spade Chelsea Large Tote, Cranberry Cocktail

I am definitely a self-proclaimed purse lover, especially when it comes to Kate Spade. This is my goto weekend tote bag. I love adding a pop of color to my outfits, and Cranberry Cocktail does just that.

Survivor

I am an unapologetic lover of competition reality TV. Even after 42 seasons, I still get excited. Strategy, backstabbing, and adventure… there’s nothing better on Wednesday nights.

Harlan Coben Novels

I have never been an avid reader, but that changed once I discovered Harlan Coben. His stories are full of twists, turns, and unpredictable endings. Some of his books have also been adapted into limited series on Netflix.

Christian Siriano

He has been my favorite designer since he won Project Runway in 2007.

I even have a sketch of his on my bedroom wall. His designs embrace femininity and creativity—which I love. Wearing a custom Siriano will forever be a dream.

Red Hot Chili Peppers

RHCP has been my go-to band since middle school. Indie and alt-rock are my most listened to genres, and The Peppers were my introduction to this type of music.

Seanik LUSH Shampoo

Sustainable beauty products are very important to me. I always consider the testing policies, packaging, and ingredients. LUSH checks off all of those for me.

Siddhartha

This book was introduced to me by my 8th grade teacher. I gravitate to it every time I reach a new chapter in my life.

Vintage Levis

Editors’ Picks

Upcycled Spoon Ring

My spoon ring is so special to me. It was gifted to me for my 21st by one of my best friends. I love it because it is one of a kind.

These are an absolute staple in my closet. I own quite a few pair of vintage Levis. The worn-in and baggy fit is my favorite style.

Breaking Bad

A visual masterpiece. Vince Gilligan, the director, does an incredible job of slowly building the characters and plot, ultimately turning Walter White, Chemistry Professor and Drug Lord, into the most cynical protagonist.

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student style

Jesly Cruz class of 2022

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student style Diamond Aurora class of 2025 The Lexington Line • S/S 22 • vol 8 • no 2

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student style

Sydnie Brady class of 2023

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student style

Ashley Olivera class of 2025 The Lexington Line • S/S 22 • vol 8 • no 2

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