Mulligans

Discovering Serenity

The Unexpected Wonders of the Maldives and Qatar

Words and Photos by Cheryl L. Dieter

Floating in a cocoon of luxuriously warm water on the Indian Ocean off Raa Atoll in the Maldives, I found myself staring at a deep lapis sky with a single white cloud in the distance. I silently asked for a sign, and random soft raindrops fell around me, small diamonds dropping from the heavens— there and gone. This gentle magic in the air made me feel deeply connected to the universe; this is the allure of the Maldives, where the unexpected arrives on a subtle breeze if you just ask.

Getting to the Maldives is arduous. From San Francisco, it’s a fifteen-hour flight to Doha, Qatar, followed by another five hours to Male. An eight-hour layover in Doha allows you to take the city tour from the airport, which lasts over three hours. The tour introduced me to the city’s Arabian Gulf seaport, modern architecture, historical and religious buildings, the Kings

palace, and Souq Waqif. The souq, an ancient Bedouin marketplace, is one of the best places to experience a bygone era in this modern city. Here, you can taste Middle Eastern delicacies, experience falconry, and buy glassware, diamonds, and rugs. Colorful sacks of teas, turmeric, and other aromatic spices dot the landscape with the sweet tang of dried lemons wafting in the air. Watching men in traditional thobe and ghutra smoking from water pipes outside small cafes gives a taste of local customs. Nearby, you can see the King’s camels being groomed for races. This $75 city tour was one of the best I’ve taken. A gentle reminder: dress respectfully, as this is not the place for skimpy or see-through clothing.

From Doha, I flew to Male, the capital city of the Maldives. Most visitors take a seaplane or speed boat to their island resort, but I recommend staying overnight in Male. The

Gentle magic in the air made me feel deeply connected to the universe.

Old Friday Mosque, once a Buddhist royal building, is one of the most ornate coral mosques on the island. You need permission to enter, but if dressed conservatively, permission is likely. The intricate lacquer work and wood carvings, especially the 13th-century depiction of Islam’s arrival to the islands, are remarkable. The National Museum, situated in Sultan Park, is also worth a visit, showcasing ancient artifacts, furniture, jewelry, and clothing.

After a day of sightseeing, I boarded a sea plane to Furaveri Maldives Resort, a 40-minute flight away. Flying over the Indian Ocean and white coral beaches, I could see hundreds of blue and humpback whales swimming below. (Whale-watching excursions are available from Male.)

Upon landing, the attentive staff welcomed me, and my personal Furaveri guru, Ayu, gave me a tour before escorting me to my luxurious abode. I immediately headed to the warm turquoise waters, where a harmless fruit bat observed me from a tree and a nurse shark swam beneath my toes. Renting a standup paddle board, I explored the crystal-clear waters, observing various colored corals and numerous fish species. Snorkeling is another great way to explore this underwater world. For those preferring to stay dry, shark feeding occurs at 5pm daily.

One of the benefits of a resort is the Kid’s Club, offering programs for all ages. Evening entertainment includes singers, dancers, and karaoke. The resort features a large pool, an impressive bar, tennis courts, and outdoor water equipment.

The next morning, I indulged in the first of four different massages, my favorite being the Indian Abhyanga. The spa experience was exceptional, with Moii, the masseuse, treating me like a cherished guest. A variety of spa treatments are available daily.

Post-spa, I inquired about PADI certification at the dive club, which offers all services and certifications needed to explore scuba diving. I then strolled through paths lined with stunning orchids and massive outdoor gardens cultivating fresh produce for the buffet. While the food was good, it wasn’t gourmet. For stays longer than four days, I recommend booking multiple resorts to avoid island fatigue and renting an overwater bungalow for a luxurious experience with private pools and ocean access.

Despite the relaxation and fun, I’m mindful that the Maldives, consisting of 1,190 coral islands, sits only about twelve feet above sea level. With rising sea levels, this paradise could be submerged within thirty years. So, if you plan to visit, do so soon.

Combining the Maldives and Qatar offers a perfect mix of relaxation and sightseeing for a memorable vacation. Recently, a major travel site had airfare and hotel for 8 days for $1600, making it a relatively affordable trip to the other side of the world. Get packing—and with a bit of magic from the universe, it will be a trip of a lifetime.