Ocean View Magazine - November 2014

OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...

Issue 9 Volume 14 2014

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It’s Time To Enjoy An Ocean View OCEAN VIEW 7

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Welcome

I would like to start this welcome note by issuing a special thank you to David Charles Manners (author of Limitless Sky and In The Shadow of Crows), who has kindly contributed an article to this magazine about his recent trip to Sicily. In his feature, published on page 46, David follows in the footsteps of his Great Uncle William and Great Aunt Annie, who were torn apart by ‘gun-wielding ruffians’ on their honeymoon in 1895.

Popular travel blogger Nellie Huang has also contributed to Ocean View, with a selection of her most adventurous hikes - from an active volcano in Guatemala, to the wildlife paradise of Antarctica.

I was lucky enough to enjoy a trip to Lisbon earlier this month, where I sampled a life of luxury at the Ritz Four Seasons. You can find out what I got up to in this fascinating city on page 24.

Elsewhere in this issue, Ocean View’s publisher Lee Mansfield takes his wife and two young daughters on a family holiday to the luxury Hillside Beach Club in Turkey, where they try scuba diving, spa treatments and top-class entertainment in the Mediterranean sunshine.

With cold weather on the way in the UK this December, what better time to pack your summer clothes and jet off to warmer climes? We’ve researched some of the best winter warmer destinations, from unseen Tenerife, to the breathtaking Maldive Islands.

As 2014 draws to a close, let us reflect on the wonderful places we have all been fortunate enough to visit this year – as we raise an exotic beach-side cocktail to brand new adventures in 2015.

Winter Warmers , page 32

Enjoy your read!

Zoe Thomas Editor

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ISSUE 14, Volume 9 2014

OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...

Issue 9 Volume 14 2014

FREE

Contents

It’S tIme to enjoy An oCeAn VIew OCEAN VIEW 7

Cover Image: Hillside Beach Club www.hillsidebeachclub.com

Ocean View Magazine Managing Director/Publisher: Lee Mansfield lee@lifemediagroup.co.uk Commercial Director: Simon Skinner simon@lifemediagroup.co.uk Operations Director Clare Fermor clare@lifemediagroup.co.uk Advertising Sales Lottie Dowdeswell lottie@oceanviewuk.co.uk Editor: Zoe Thomas zoe@lifemediagroup.co.uk Production Manager: Harriet Weston harriet@lifemediagroup.co.uk Design Assistant Amy Watson amy@lifemediagroup.co.uk Accounts: Amelia Wellings: amelia@lifemediagroup.co.uk Subscriptions: Linda Grace linda@lifemediagroup.co.uk Published by: LMG SE LTD Park View House 19 The Avenue, Eastbourne, East Sussex, BN21 3YD 01323 411601 Printed by: Gemini Press Unit A1 Dolphin Way, Shoreham-by-Sea, West Sussex, BN43 6NZ 01273 464884 All material in this publication is strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The views expressed in Ocean View Magazine do not necessarily represent the view of Life Media Group LTD. Every care is taken in compiling the contents but the publishers of Ocean View Magazine assume no reponsibilty for any damage, loss or injury arising from the participation in any offers, competitions or advertisment contained within Ocean View Magazine. All prices featured in Ocean View Magazine are correct at the time of going to press.

Copyright Life Media Group 2014 ©

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Hiking: Nellie Huang reveals some of her most memorable adventures…

Spending It: We select clothing that will keep you feeling warm and looking cool Cotswolds: Escape to rolling English countryside and honey-coloured villages for a weekend of walking in the Cotswolds Recipes: Mouthwatering dishes from India Lisbon: Zoe Thomas reviews her latest travels around Portugal Tuscany: Searching for art, wine and beauty in Tuscany Winter Warmers: Escape the British winter for warmer climes Book Extract: We take a look at 50 water adventures to do before you die David Charles Manners: Crossing Sicily in ancestral footsteps Turkey: Lee Mansfield reviews his stay at the Hillside Beach Club

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Hiking in the Wilderness WildJunket founder Nellie Huang has hiked all over the world, from the arctic tundra in Norway, to the Galapagos Islands in the Pacific Ocean. Here, we ask her to reveal some of her most memorable adventures…

W

e Brits love a vigorous walk up a steep hill, especially if it culminates in a pub lunch.

Nellie Huang, founder of popular adventure travel blog WildJunket, enjoys hiking on a whole other level. You’ll need more than your long-johns, best pub guide and a bar of Kendle mint cake to survive these wild trails…

Nellie, originally from Singapore, packed to go travelling the day after she graduated from University. Having always dreamt of 6 OCEAN VIEW

exploring the world, she spent the next few years of her life teaching and translating abroad while working up to a career in travel writing.

Today, she runs an adventure travel blog called WildJunket with her Spanish husband Alberto Molero, and the pair travel to far-flung destinations all over the world, photographing and blogging as they go.

WildJunket has since earned an impressive list of accolades, reaching third in Google US Top 100 Travel Sites, and number 16 on the UK version. It also ranked

fifth in the Top Online Travel Influencers list and featured on Huffington Post as one of the Top Travel Twitterers.

Harnessing their worldwide audience, the couple have been able to fund some extraordinary travel experiences and live most of their lives as nomads journeying from country to country.

What do you love most about hiking?

I love the freedom that hiking gives, and I really enjoy how close you can get to nature when you’re out on a hike. Hiking

means being able to immerse deeply in the backcountry.

What are your packing essentials when setting out for a hike?

My iPhone (for GPS or taking photos), a bottle with water and dissolved hydration pills, small first-aid kit, a hat, snacks or a banana.

You’ve hiked in some pretty wild conditions - what’s the most extreme route you’ve taken?

There are a few that come to mind. Climbing the active Volcan Pacaya in Guatemala was quite an exciting experience. There was hot, molten lava right beneath our feet and my husband Alberto almost slipped and fell in!

We also did a hike up the Eyjafjakkajull Volcano in Iceland, shortly after it erupted, and we ended up getting stuck in a snowstorm and having to turn around and run down the slope to our safety. In Arctic Norway, all the hikes we did had some form of risks involved, as we were either walking on slippery glaciers or trekking on tundra

where polar bears roamed. Thankfully the expedition crew were armed with weapons in case of a polar bear attacks.

Can you recommend any adventurous hikes?

Yes - lots!

Annapurna travel info - The Annapurna region is in western Nepal, where some of the most popular treks are located. The Annapurna mountains themselves are a subrange of the Himalaya, among the most dangerous mountains to climb. The range extends east from a huge gorge in the Himalaya, carved by the Kaligandaki River.

A permit is required to enter the Annapurna Conservation Area Project, which covers most of the region. These can be issued in Kathmandu and Pokhara and will be needed to show at police stations along the trail.

You can reach the region either by bus from Pokhara, or by plane - several daily flights operate between Pokhara and Jomsom but these are always dependent on weather conditions.

1. Annapurna mountains - I did a trek in the Annapurna foothills, Nepal, and even though we were just in the foothills, the view of the Himalayas along the trek was just spectacular. They were definitely some of the most spectacular sights I’ve seen.

2. Gorillas in Uganda - By far the most memorable wildlife experience I’ve had was gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. I’ll never forget how intimate the experience was, watching gorillas just lounging around and having fun. Locking

Have you ever had to put your survival skills to the test?

Most of time I’m accompanied by a local guide for safety reasons so thankfully I haven’t had to use any survival skills. Even when I’d ventured out on my own, I’d never gotten lost or stuck in the wilderness.

I think the essential thing is to practice common sense, not wander off too far on your own and be prepared with safety equipment.

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HIKING

eyes with the silverback and seeing it almost charge at it made the experience all the more exciting.

Bwindi travel info - Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is located in Southwestern Uganda, in the Kanungu District. It earns the name ‘impenetrable’ from the extensive jungle of bamboo, vines and ferns that grow between hardwood trees making it difficult to access by foot. The forest is one of the most biologically diverse areas on Earth, and it is home to half the world’s population of Mountain Gorillas.

To get there you can drive for two to three hours from Queen Elizabeth National park to the north, or take a six to eight hour drive from Mbarara. You could also choose to fly from Entebbe or Kampala to Kisoro.

3.Tiger’s Nest in Bhutan - The hike up to Bhutan’s most famous and sacred site, Tiger’s Nest, is quite short and easy, but definitely a must-do when visiting the

country. It starts from the pine forests in the foothills and winds its way up a steep mountain. Once you round a bend, you’ll see the magnificent monastery in its full glory.

Tiger’s Nest travel info - Tiger’s Nest, the name for Takstsang Palphug Monastery, is a Himalayan Buddhist temple located in the cliffs of the upper Paro valley, in Bhutan. The route to Tiger’s Nest is famously beautiful, passing a large waterfall, numerous temples and a sacred pool.

You can fly into Paro from Bangkok, but flights are dependant on the weather.

4. Antarctica - Antarctica is literally paradise for wildlife lovers. On our zodiac excursions, we would whizz by humpback whales and leopard seals; while hiking on land, we would stare at hundreds if not thousands of penguins soaking up the sun.

Antarctica travel info - Antarctica is the southernmost continent and the driest,

Nellie and Alberto are raising money for charity by taking part in a Rickshaw Run in January 2015. If you would like to support the couple as they race a tuktuk across India to fundraise for environmental charities Cool Earth and Planeterra, head to their charity page: www.pozible.com/project/188126 coldest, windiest of them all. There are no human residents and the coldest temperature ever recorded is -89ºC. Antarctic life includes emperor penguins, blue whales, albatross, orcas, colossal squids and fur seals.

There are a number of cruises operating around Antarctica, usually offering land excursions such as hiking, mountaineering and skiing.

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Baby It’s Cold Outside!

There’s no bad weather, only bad clothing – this selection will keep you feeling warm and looking cool 7

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18 1. Apricot, Grey Red Riding Hood Faux Fur Cape, £35, www.apricotonline.co.uk 2.M&S Collection Active Puffa Jacket, £99, www.marksandspencer.com 3. Basket Weave Scarf, £75, simoncarter.net 4. Kelly Simpkin, Two tone Mittens, from £80, www.kellysimpkin.com 5. Kelly Simpkin, Two tone Scarf, £100, www.kellysimpkin.com 6. JD Williams, Faux Fur Coat, £120, www.jdwilliams.co.uk 7. Dc Mega Snowboard, £192, www.snowandrock.com 8. COLUMBIA W BUGABOOT ORIGINAL TALL OMNI HEAT, £110, www.snowandrock.com 9. Debenhams, Hammond & Co. by Patrick Grant, Red Beanie Hat, £25, www.debenhams.com 10. New Look, Cream cable knit jumper , £19.99, www.newlook.com 11. M&S Collection Knitted Glove with Thinsulate, £9.50, www.marksandspencer.com 12. X-Max Red 13/14 Goggles, £150, www.ellis-brigham.com 13. LINE FUTURESPIN (SKI ONLY) 2014, £360, www. snowandrock.com 14. Superdry, Herders Snood, £24.99, www.superdry.com 15. George at Asda, Faux fur lined gloves, £6, www.asda.com/George 16. Emerald 14/15 Snowboard Boots, £200, www.ellisbrigham.com 17. The North Face, Bones Beanie, £19.99, www.ellis-brigham.com 18. Eden Park, Woolen coat, £444, uk.eden-park.com, 19. Oak Leaf & Acorn Bracelet, £16, www.ladymuck.org.uk & Oak leaf & acorn necklace, £23, www.ladymuck.org.uk

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A Walking Weekend in the Cotswolds Escape to rolling English countryside and honey-coloured villages for a weekend of walking in the Cotswolds

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COTSWOLDS

The beautiful Cotsworld Hills rise from the upper Thames to an escarpment above the Severn Valley and Evesham Vale.

Stretching southwest across England for 90 miles, the Cotswolds area is graced with some of the prettiest scenery in the country.

The walking here is world-famous, with routes passing meadows lush with rare species of flora and fauna, villages built with golden-coloured limestone carved straight from the ground, enchanting beech woodlands and breathtaking viewpoints overlooking the surrounding valleys towards Wales.

The Cotswold Way traverses approximately 102 miles of this designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), passing pretty villages, interesting market towns and historical sites along the way.

Getting There From London, you can reach the Cotswolds within an hour, with direct trains from Paddington. There are main lines to some of the main towns and villages, including 14 OCEAN VIEW

Kemble (for Cirencester, the ‘Capital of the Cotswolds’), Bath in the south, Cheltenham to the north, and Chippenham to the west.

This makes the Cotswolds an ideal destination for a weekend getaway - it’s far enough away to feel remote but close enough to avoid too much travelling time.

The Route The Cotswolds Way stretches from Chipping Campden to Bath. Because it is a National Trail (one of 15 in England and Wales), it is well signposted throughout its length so the way should be clear. You can join it at any point and walk in either direction.

Historical Landmarks Depending on where you join the route, you will find a number of fascinating historical sites along the way, including the Neolithic burial chamber at Belas Knap, and nearby Sudeley Castle near Winchcome. Belas Knap Long Barrow is a burial ground dug high up on a hilltop near Winchcombe. It dates from over 5,500

“You will find a number of fascinating historical sites along the way, including the Neolithic burial chamber at Belas Knap, and nearby Sudeley Castle near Winchcome” years ago and is one of the best preserved chambers in the country. Skeletons of 38 ancient people were found when its four chambers were excavated in the 1800s. The name comes from the Latin word bellas for beautiful, and the Old English word Knap for summit.

Take a step forward in history by including nearby Sudeley Castle in your weekend itinerary. This magnificent 15th century castle stands in notable gardens

COTSWOLDS

Walking Essentials Walking boots Make sure they are half a size bigger than you would normally wear to leave room for cosy walking socks and inevitable swollen feet.

Map Never leave without a map of the local area. While the route may be well signposted, what if you want to stray away from the path and explore further afield?

Travel first aid kit Pack a small tupperware box with first aid essentials such as plasters, antiseptic, painkillers and insect bite spray. Vaseline can also be useful on long walks to prevent chafing on the feet.

Water Even in cold weather, you will become dehydrated if you don’t regularly drink water. When it’s warm, you could require up to 3 litres of water a day.

Snacks Top up your energy levels with healthy, high-energy snacks such as a banana, a bag of nuts, dried fruit, or a breakfast bar.

Waterproofs Let’s face it, there’s always a chance of rain in England.

Avoid feeling cold, damp and comfortable by packing waterproof coats and trousers.

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maintained to a very high standard.

Because it is in fact a private residence, one of the few castles in England to be so, visiting hours are limited and you are advised to check the website before your visit at www.sudeleycastle.co.uk.

Other historic sites along the way include the Roman Baths in Bath, which has recently undergone a £5.5m redevelopment to improve accessibility and preserve the beautiful stone architecture for another 100 years.

Located below street level, the Roman Baths features four main features: the Sacred Spring, the Roman Temple, the Roman Bath House and ancient artefacts excavated from the city itself.

Also set against the picturesque Cotswold landscape tucked away in a beautiful valley, is the Painswick Rococo Garden, famous for its stunning snowdrop display and historic 99 yew trees.

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Towns and Villages If you’re looking to escape the bustle of the city to find an countryside enclave, there are plenty of unspoilt Cotswold villages with the relaxed pace of life you’re looking for. Enjoy brisk walks, pub lunches and crackling log fires, and explore boutique shops, ancient churches and colourful market stalls in towns like Cirencester, Stroud and Tewkesbury.

In Roman times, Cirencester was second only in importance to London.

The town’s market square is dominated by the Parish Church of St. John Baptist, which is as large as a Cathedral and build from the beautiful cream Cotswold stone. Today, you can visit the Corinium Museum and experience life as a Roman, and even take a short walk out of town to the Roman Amphitheatre, one on the best preserved in Britain.

If you’re looking for that chocolate-

box-perfect village, head to Lower Slaughter, a place much prettier than its name, built on the banks of the River Eye and featuring a 19th century water mill and Grade II listed manor house, Lower Slaughter Manor. For a classic cream tea, head to Chipping Campden at the head of the trail, one of the most popular villages in the Cotswolds. Here you will find a great variety of B&Bs, hotels and holiday cottages, as well as tea rooms for an indulgent Cotswold cream tea complete with cakes, sandwiches and even a glass of Champagne if you’re feeling extravagant.

The Cotswolds offers some of the most beautiful, peaceful scenery in the country.

Whether you’re after a relaxing weekend in a spa or a cosy inn, or a vigorous walking holiday with plenty of fresh air and challenging hills, you are sure to find the perfect mini-break in the Cotswolds.

Self-guided luxury short breaks Cotswold Walks specialises in luxury breaks in the Cotswolds. The company offers several options for two night breaks, alternatively offering bespoke tours, tailormade according to the guest’s personal preferences. The owners live, work and walk everyday in the Cotswolds, putting them in the perfect position to select the best accommodation, sights and tours on offer.

Every hotel is handpicked for luxury and comfort, while detailed routes, notes and maps are provided in a portable A5 booklet to enhance each walk and point out useful recommendations such as pubs, restaurants and views.

Selected tours include:

Cotswolds and the quintessential English accommodation offered by the Lamb Inn. Duration: 2 nights, 2 days Walking distance: 28.8km Grade: Easy to moderate Accommodation: The Lamb Inn Contact Cotswold Walks info@cotswoldwalks.com Telephone (UK): 01386 833799 (from outside the United Kingdom +44-1386833799) Telephone (US/Canada): 1-323-544-5519 Skype: CotswoldWalksMailing Address: Address: Forge House, 6 School St, Honeybourne, Worcestershire, WR11 7PJ United Kingdom cotswalks-ocean-quarter-2015.pdf

Chipping Campden Chipping Campden is considered one of the most beautiful villages in England.

Strong connections with the Arts and Crafts movements make this an ideal short break for those looking for walks combined with history and art.

Duration: 2 nights, 2 days Walking distance: 18.8km Grade: East to moderate Accommodation: Cotswold House Hotel and Spa

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Upper and Lower Slaughter Upper and Lower Slaughter offer an idyllic setting and combined with wonderful walks and pub lunches makes this the perfect country retreat.

Duration: 2 nights, 2 days Walking distance: 37km Grade: Easy to moderate Accommodation: Lords of the Manor Hotel

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Burford The picturesque wool town of Burford situated on the river Windrush makes this an ideal base to enjoy walking in the OCEAN VIEW 17

ESSENTIAL RECIPES

Made in India

Real Indian food is fresh, simple and packed with flavour and in this book, Meera Sodha introduces Britain to the food she grew up eating here every day. Unlike the stuff you get at your local curry house, her food is fresh, vibrant and surprisingly quick and easy to make

I left Lincolnshire at the age of 18 to go to university in London. Secretly homesick, I would stop in Indian-owned newsagents on the way back from class, lingering over the magazines and quietly listening to the owners speaking in Gujarati, just for comfort.

When it came to food, I was at the mercy of the halls chef, a Jamaican with an adventurous streak who would create delights such as sweetcorn and strawberry salad, indiscriminately seasoning everything with pepper. With every bite, I’d be thinking about home and my ultimate comfort food, my mum’s chicken curry.

MUM’S CHICKEN CURRY SERVES 4 2 tablespoons ghee or unsalted butter 1 tablespoon rapeseed oil 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 2 x 4cm cinnamon sticks 2 large onions, finely chopped 6cm ginger, peeled and grated 6 cloves of garlic, crushed 2 fresh green chillies (or 1 teaspoon chilli powder) salt 200g tomato passata 2 tablespoons tomato purée 11⁄2 teaspoons ground cumin 1⁄2 teaspoon ground turmeric 3 tablespoons whole-milk yoghurt (plus extra to serve) 1.2kg skinless chicken legs, or 800g skinless, boneless chicken thighs 3 tablespoons ground almonds 1 teaspoon garam masala Put the ghee and oil into a wide-bottomed, lidded frying pan on a medium heat and, when it’s hot, add the cumin seeds and cinnamon sticks. Let them infuse in the oil for a minute, and then add the onions. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden brown.

Meanwhile, put the ginger, garlic and green chillies into a pestle and mortar with a pinch of salt and bash to a coarse paste.

Add the paste to the pan and cook gently for 2 minutes, then pour in the passata and stir. Cook the passata for a few minutes until it resembles a thick paste, then add the tomato purée, ground cumin, turmeric and 1⁄2 teaspoon of salt (or to taste).

Whisk the yoghurt and add it slowly to the curry. Cook it through until it starts to bubble, then add the chicken. Pop the lid on the pan and continue to cook on a gentle heat for around 30 minutes. Add the ground almonds and the garam masala and cook for another 5 minutes.

OPPOSITE: Mum’s Chicken Curry

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Serve with a tower of chapattis (see page 196), hot fluffy naan bread (see page 199) or rice, and offer yoghurt at the table.

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ESSENTIAL RECIPES

Every now and then, when we were growing up, Mum would find me and my sister wherever we were hiding in the house, whip us into the car and take us to Leicester on a sari shopping expedition.

Our only consolation (aside from secretly unravelling beautifully folded saris in the shops) was a dish of freshly prepared chilli paneer from one of the nearby food stalls or cafés afterwards.

This dish is as popular with kids as it is with grandparents. Here’s Mum’s recipe for this spectacular street food.

CHILLI PANEER SERVES 4 11⁄2 teaspoons cumin seeds 400g paneer rapeseed oil 4 cloves of garlic, crushed 1 fresh green chilli, very finely sliced 3⁄4 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon tomato purée 1⁄2 teaspoon sugar 4 spring onions, finely sliced into rings lemon wedges, to serve Throw the cumin seeds into a pestle and mortar and roughly grind them to a coarse powder. Next cut the paneer into 2cm cubes. Pour a thin coating of oil (2mm) into a large frying pan and bring it to a high heat. Fry the paneer in batches, turning the pieces until golden brown on each side, and transfer them to a paper-towelled dish. Watch out, as the paneer may spit; if so, half cover the pan with a lid.

Put 2 tablespoons of oil into the pan, followed by the garlic, green chilli, cumin, black pepper and salt. Sauté for around 3 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally. Add the tomato purée and sugar and stir, then put the paneer back into the pan along with a splash of water. Cover the pan and simmer for a further 5 minutes.

Take the lid off the pan, add the spring onions and simmer until there is no water left. Serve fresh and hot with a squeeze of lemon.

Made In India, by Made in India Published by Fig Tree, £20. www.penguin.co.uk

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OPPOSITE: Chilli Paneer

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KITCHEN GOODIES

Yolk Fish Egg Separator £8.95. www.prezzybox.com iKettle, £99.99. www.firebox.com

Candy Floss Machine £29.95. www.prezzybox.com

Garlic Zoom, £10. www.chefn.com

Foodie Gadgets

MUST HAVES Samurai Kitchen Knives £29.95. www.prezzybox.com

Peanut Butter Maker £44.95. www.prezzybox.com

Skull Kitchen Knife Block, £89.95. www.prezzybox.com

Citrus Zinger, £15. www.sciencemuseumshop.co.uk

Rollie Egg Master, £29.99 www.kalorik.com

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From Ship to Shore, Experience More Cruise & Walk is a unique way of experiencing the freedom of a walking holiday with all the relaxed pleasures of cruising on world-renowned Fred. Olsen Cruise Liners

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n 2015 Ramblers Cruise & Walk offer even more adventures by crossing more of the world’s oceans than ever before.

Voyage to the distant shores of the Java and South China Seas with the promise of far-flung adventure. Alternatively, cruise closer to home with destinations such as the Norwegian fjords, the Canary Islands and the British Isles.

Fly – Cruise – Caribbean and South East Asia - In January and February two fly-cruises to the Caribbean take us to rain forests, tropical beaches, salsa and colonial cities. On the other side of the world, we

have three cruises through South East Asia.

Sail across the South China Sea to Java and beyond to get up close to Komodo Dragons, Japanese temples and Chinese markets.

Beautiful Baltic.- In the Baltic we mix the sights of St Petersburg and Stockholm with visits to lesser known ports such as the Danish Island of Ronne or the Swedish island of Visby.

Majestic Fjords - In August we head north for a month of fjords, glaciers and geysers as we take in the natural wonders of Iceland, Greenland and Norway.

Through the summer months we cruise the

Norwegian Fjords, from the apple blossom of May, through the midnight sun and on to the start of a Scandinavian Autumn.

British Isles & Europe - Closer to home, we have more cruises around the British Isles, many visiting Scottish Islands. For the first time we sail some of Europe’s great rivers, up the Seine to Rouen and the Guadalquivir in Andalucía to Seville. In the winter, you can escape the inclement weather with sun – splashed cruises to the Canaries, Madeira or West Africa.

Contact us on: 01707 386772 or www.ramblersholidays.co.uk

SHIP TO

SHORE EXPERIENCE

MORE Combine expert led walking holidays with the pleasures of cruising

01707 386772 www.cruiseandwalk.co.uk

NEW 2015 Cruise & Walk holidays out now

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Luxury in Lisbon Zoe Thomas travels to mainland Europe’s westernmost capital to sample the luxuries of the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon

B

efore last week, I never imagined I’d find myself on a rooftop runningtrack watching the sun rise over Lisbon. Especially not after a wild night drinking Caipirinhas by the pint. I could see the tops of buildings and the towers of the 25 de Abril Bridge peaking out from beneath a shroud of thick fog. Everything was bathed in salmon-pink; ethereal. It was like jogging in the sky.

Even at that ungodly hour the conditions were hot and sticky, and after twenty minutes of circumnavigating the Ritz Four Seasons roof in running gear designed for a chilly morning in England, I was even

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hotter and stickier. I decided to complete my workout in the hotel’s air-conditioned rooftop gym with the same breathtaking views. If there was ever a reason to spend your morning running nowhere on a treadmill, this was it.

On my way out of the gym I noticed a ‘refreshments corner’ in the foyer and helped myself to a glass of chilled water and an immaculately shiny apple from the fruit bowl, hoping I hadn’t just eaten one of the hotel’s contemporary art installations. Then I made my way down to the spa in the lift.

The ladies changing room in the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon is a destination

in its own right. I could quite happily have spent a day in there. The air was fragrant with a mix of calming aromatherapy oils, while soothing pan flutes breathed through a surround sound system concealed in the teak panelled walls. Floor-length mirrors produced the illusion I was wandering around a labyrinth – I found myself lost in a maze of steam rooms, saunas and ‘grooming stations’ with shelves and draws crammed with all the products a woman could possibly need, from cotton buds and wipes, to hair mousse and deodorant.

I even stumbled upon a purple-lit cubby hole housing an ice fountain, next to a dark

Monastery of St. Vincent in Lisbon, Portugal.

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LISBON

‘relaxation room’ where guests could go to close their eyes and meditate. And the best thing about it? I had the whole place to myself. I wandered around in my oversized robe, helping myself to a bit of ice (apparently it helps with circulation) before padding out into the pool area. The pool was a cyan square, perfectly still and smooth and surrounded by cream padded recliners. After a quick dip, I decided I’d done enough exercise that morning to warrant a big breakfast.

Squeaky clean and emanating a potent scent of rose, lavender and tea-tree oil, I entered the Veranda Restaurant where some of the hotel’s well-healed guests were already tucking into the American buffet breakfast and basking with freshlysqueezed orange juice on the sundrenched terrace outside.

I helped myself to the banquet tables laden with cold meats, exotic fruits, pastries, cakes, cereals and yoghurts, before choosing a seat on the terrace.

Immediately a waiter took my order for a cup of tea (despite admonitions from a local resident that Portuguese tea wasn’t

worth drinking), before leaving me in peace to tuck into my croissant and plan a day of sightseeing around the city. (It turned out the local was right about the tea.)

Things to see in Lisbon Tram 28 One of Lisbon’s many quirks is its vintage tram network, transporting tourists and commuters across the ancient Alfama

Romanesque style. It is dedicated to Saint Vincent of Saragossa, the patron saint of Lisbon. Inside you can view the incredible baroque altarpiece constructed by one of the best Portuguese sculptors, Jaoquim Machado de Castro.

Arco da Rua Augusta The Rua Augusta Arch, also known as The Triumphal Arch, is one of Lisbon’s most recognisable historic monuments. It was designed by architect Santos do Comercio in the 19th century to celebrate the reconstruction of the city after the infamous 1755 earthquake. With its dramatic roof adorned with figures representing Glory, Genius and Bravery, this breathtaking monument is certainly worth a visit. It also provides visitors with panoramic views across the square and river from the belvedere.

“I found myself lost in a maze of steam rooms, saunas and ‘grooming stations’ with shelves and draws crammed with all the products a woman could possibly need”

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district in yellow pre-war Remodelado style carriages. The Tram 28 route includes some hairy climbs up steep and narrow streets offering glorious views and great photo opportunities.

Monastery of Sao Vicente de Fora You can hop off Tram 28 to explore the beautiful Monastery of Sao Vicente de Fora, a 17th century monastery built in the

Castelo se Sao Jorgo (Castle of St George) The castle is built on the site of an ancient fortress that has been used by many settlers over the centuries, including the Romans, Visigoths and Moors. In 1147 it was conquered by Portugal’s first king

“Lisbon is a vast and beautiful city sprawled across seven hills and multiple districts”

and remained a royal residence until the 1700s. Like many buildings in Lisbon, it was severely damaged in the earthquake of 1755. Today you can visit the castle’s beautiful courtyards, battlements and gardens alongside a multimedia exhibition that brings Lisbon’s history to life.

Lisbon is a vast and beautiful city sprawled across seven hills and multiple districts, from the modern financial district, to ancient Alfama with its cobbled streets and steep alleys.

The best way to explore is to go by ear. Take the tram, talk to locals, pop into cafes and above all - take it easy.

Like with all big cities, there is a lot to see and often the best sites aren’t in the guide books. The best sites are unexpected.

For me, the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz offered a luxurious sanctuary after a long day of exploring. With faultless service and unbelievable indulgences, the hotel soars to the top of my list of favourites. It might be a little inelegant on the outside, as any 11-storey concrete building built in the ‘60s would be, but it’s the inside that counts.

And inside you can find the perfect vantage point over a complex city with a million stories to tell.

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Sanguine Sunsets

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Pank Seelen Š

Searching for art, wine and beauty in Tuscany

Art

You don’t have to travel far in Tuscany to stumble across a masterpiece. Even beyond the major museums in Florence an Siena you will discover unexpected churches, abbeys, castles and palaces sporting sculptures, paintings, murals and frescoes by the great names of the Renaissance.

Florence is world-renowned for its artistic heritage; it’s been awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status for good reason. This surprisingly small, river-side city is a stunning example of human creativity at its pinnacle.

The skyline is studded with domed roofs, spires, Romanesque towers and castellated battlements. Elegant bridges arc over the glassy Arno river, which flows from the mountains and through Florence, Empoli and Pisa before it meets the Tyrrhenian Sea at Marina di Pisa.

The city’s main destination for art is the Uffizi Gallery, which displays Botticelli’s famous paintings ‘The Birth of Venus’ and ‘La Primavera’ alongside other famous masterpieces such as Raphael’s ‘Madonna of the Goldfinch’ and ‘Doni Tondo’ by Michelangelo.

But art is on the streets too: from the Florence

Must visit in Florence...

Duomo - Designed by Sienese architect Arnolfo di Cambio, this neo-Gothic cathedral is Florence’s most iconic landmark. It took 150 years to build thanks to the complexity of its features, which includes a domineering white and green marble facade, breathtaking octagonal domes and incredible frescos depicting the Last Judgement.

At one point Leondardo da Vinci was draughted in to engineer a crane that could help mount the giant ‘golden ball’ on the top of the dome.

Palazzo Medici-Riccardi - What started out as a commission for a townhouse in 1444 is now one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture in the city, built on the principals of simplicity, neatness and symmetry. Inside, the rooms are decorated in baroque style with marble and gold and adorned with carvings, tapestries, ornaments, silverware and ornate furniture - pure opulence in every respect.

Museo del Bargello - This 13th century building safeguards some of Michelangelo’s best early works, including the drunken grape-adorned Bacchus (god of wine) and the marble bust of Brutus. Also displayed here are famous works by Donatello including the St George sculpture that shifted the Italian sculpture movement at the time.

neo-Gothic ‘Duomo’ (one of Italy’s ‘big three’ alongside Pisa’s Leaning Tower and Rome’s Colluseum), to the extraordinary Ponte Vecchio - a Medieval ‘closedspandrel segmental arch bridge’ that still has shops built across it, as was common in the Middle Ages.

Wine

Photo by Adam Smok ©

Some of the world’s best wine regions are located in Tuscany, including Chianti, di Montalcino and Brunello. The gentle Tuscan hills protect the vines from the summertime heat, and most vineyards are found at altitudes of 500-1,600ft to increase what is known as the ‘diurnal temperature variation’ (variation of high and low temperatures throughout the day), which helps the fruit maintain a perfect balance of sugar and acidity.

There are plenty of vineyards to visit across Tuscany, including: Val delle Corti At Val dell Corti, Roberto Bianchi 30 OCEAN VIEW

produces three wines from his six-hectare organic vineyard: vino di tavola, chianti classic and riserva.

Localita La Croce, Radda in Chianti, +39 0577 738215, valdellecorti.it Fontodi Owner Giovanni Manetti offers free wine tours on his organic, 80-hectare vineyard.

He also plants 30 hectares of olive trees. He is experimental in his wine making methods, and uses Greco-Roman terracotta vats instead of wooden barrels.

Panzano in Chianti, +39 055 852005, fontodi.com Le Boncle Giovanna Morganti’s modest five-hectare estate produces a high quality chianti classic, using little-known varieties mammal, colorino and foglia tonda to the classic sangiovese. She is part of the Vini Veri group that led the influential natural wine movement across Europe.

Localita San Felice, Castelnuova Berardenga, +39 0577 359383, leboncie.it

TUSCANY

Beauty

Beyond the art and architecture of the ancient cities lies an undulating landscape that stretches from the jagged Apennine mountains, to the dark blue Tyrrhenian Sea. From crystal clear bays and treecovered valleys, to cyprus-lined avenues leading to ancient hill towns, explorers are guaranteed to stumble upon a glorious view wherever they are in Tuscany.

Saturnia, Tuscany, Italy

Top Beauty Spots in Tuscany Barga Situated in the mountainous area of northern Tuscany, the medieval town of Barga (Lucca) offers breathtaking views of the snow-peaked Pania dell a Croce.

Navigate the narrow, winding alleyways and flights of stone steps that cut through

Tuscany Wine Facts After the regions of Apulia and Sicily, Tuscany is the third most planted region in Italy. However, it is eighth in production volume because the quality of soil produces low yields but high quality.

Over 80% of the wine produced in Tuscany is red.

Tuscany’s most prominent grape is The Sangiovese grape.

Viticulture in Tuscany can be traced back to the Etruscan settlements of the 8th century BC. Tuscany is famous for its passito dessert wine Vin Santo, meaning ‘holy wine’.

Chianti is Tuscany’s largest classified wine region, producing over 8m cases a year.

Photo by Jarle Refsnes ©

the ancient town, leading up to the broad terrace in front of the cathedral. From here, you can gaze down at the jumble of terracotta roofs and the dramatic Apuan valley below.

Saturnia Better known for its gentle agricultural landscapes, Tuscany’s geothermal springs might come as a surprise to some. For centuries, people have come to Saturnia in the Province of Grosseto for a little R&R in the hot, natural springs. Away from the neat farmland of Chianti and deep in the thick wooded valleys, you will find milky pools steaming under the branches. The 37ºC water is said to soothe muscles and alleviate aches and pains and, if you don’t mind the smell of eggs (from the sulphur), then you can

wile away a whole day relaxing here, before cooling off in the nearby river Albenga.

Monte Argentario Two strips of sand connect Monte Argentario from mainland Italy, enclosing a tranquil blue lagoon. The jagged shoreline hides secret inlets, while olive groves and woods of pine and oak grow on the slopes above. There are two towns here - Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole - both with bustling harbour-fronts lined with cafes, bars and restaurants attracting wealthy visitors.

The main road winds around the island, offering stunning panoramic views of the sea and mountains.

Whatever you search for in Tuscany - be it art, wine, classic Italian food or simple, rustic beauty – you will find it all here in abundance. This is Italy amplified.

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Winter Warmers Escape the British winter for warmer climes

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s the days get colder and the world beyond the cosy confines of your bed starts to look increasingly unappealing, it’s time to pack up. Gather your sandals, your shades, a good book and that old bottle of suncream – and escape. Get on a plane and chase the summer sun around the globe. Find your own tropical beach and sunbathe the winter blues away. Who needs snow-storms, train delays, traffic jams and drizzle when you can be in paradise in just a few hours?

There are plenty of beautiful destinations around the world where daily sunshine is guaranteed throughout November, December and January. We invite you to bask in some of these winter warmers…

Tenerife Av. winter temp: 21ºC Flight time: 4.5 hours from London Contrary to popular belief, there is far more to the Spanish island of Tenerife than 32 OCEAN VIEW

all-night bars, cheap-as-chips cocktails and dodgy street vendors. Away from the neon lights and thumping music of some of the more frequented tourist resorts, the real beauty of the Canary Islands unfolds.

Tenerife is dominated by the world’s third highest volcano: Mount Teide, which soars out of the Atlantic ocean to a peak of 7,500m from the seabed. The steep landscape around the volcano is often described as ‘lunar’ due to the bizarre natural rock formations that jut out from the ground, made from ancient rivers of lava that once flowed here.

As the land drops away towards the sea, the landscape changes from desert to lush green fields and jagged rock along the coast, punctuated by the island’s signature black sand beaches.

You can follow hiking trails along the coastline on the north side of the island, where the Atlantic surf crashes into the cliffs, mirror-still rock pools glitter invitingly and local fishermen catch bass out at sea. This area is known as Buenavista, which translates aptly as ‘great view’. If you

venture further south to La Caldera del Rey you can ride a horse through lush meadows with a stunning mountain backdrop, or explore the ancient Canarian cuisine and architecture in the small mountain villages.

If you crave the salty breeze of the sea, you can always head down to the coast and charter your own luxury speedboat for the day. Pilot whales and dolphins are frequently spotted in this part of the Atlantic, along with other larger whales passing on their migratory routes - so while you’re sipping champagne don’t forget to look out for those tell-tale water spouts.

There are a number of luxury resorts in Tenerife, each offering a range of premium facilities for the perfect winter retreat.

Here’s a handful to start you off: Costa Adeje Grand Hotel This resort hotel is located in the popular Costa Adeje area and offers views over the ocean and surrounding mountains, as well as a rooftop swimming pool and adult-only open-air terrace.

Maldives

Ritz-Carlton Abama This is widely thought to be the best hotel in Tenerife, with a championship golf course, private golden sand beach, spa and two Michelin-starred restaurants.

Sheraton La Caleta Resort & Spa The Sheraton is also located in the popular Adeje resort, with a host of facilities including tennis courts, spa, vitality pools and 18,000 square metres of subtropical gardens.

Maldives Average winter temp: (Dry season) 28ºC Flight time: 11 hours from London

life for a couple of weeks, jump on a jet and find out what life is like on a coral island in the middle of the Indian Ocean?

The Maldive Islands offer an incredible aerial view, consisting of a chain of 1,192 coral islands (atolls) spread over a distance of 90,000 square km. Maldive is the flattest country in the world with a maximum ground level of only 1.8m (6ft) above sea

providing education programmes for tourists to help them enjoy their stay while contributing to the protection of the beautiful landscapes and marine environments. The government too is investing in renewable energy and improving environmental awareness to reach its target of becoming a carbon-neutral country by 2019.

“Why not escape ‘real’ life for a couple of weeks, jump on a jet and find out what life is like on a coral island in the middle of the Indian Ocean?”

We all know that image of pristine white beaches fringed with palm trees and stilt huts in turquoise shallows. It’s the sort of image that floats through your mind as you sit in your office at 3pm watching the rain pelt down outside. This winter, why not make that dream a reality? Why not escape ‘real’

level. While this contributes to the area’s unique natural beauty, it also means rising sea levels caused by global warming could wipe out the whole country by the end of the century. Because of this, ecotourism is abundant in the Maldives, with multiple holiday resorts pumping money into conservation projects and

Some of the best ecofriendly resorts include:

Four Seasons Maldives There are two luxurious Four Seasons resorts in the Maldives, offering a true winter retreat in five star palm-thatched beach bungalows and poolside villas on two private islands. The hotel offers exciting excursions including surfing and scuba diving to see giant whale sharks, manta rays and tropical fish in this UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve.

Baros Maldives The Baros Maldives resort is the place to go OCEAN VIEW 33

Monastery of St. Vincent Outside the Walls, or Iglesia de Sao Vicente de Fora in Lisbon, Portugal.

come back new For 2014 and beyond, our promise to you is that after one of our cruises, you will come back new.

We offer you the chance to discover new places, experience new cultures, try new foods from the places you are visiting and learn more about the world you don’t see every day. You’ll return from your Princess Cruises holiday with new friendships, fresh perspectives and the best souvenirs of all – new stories to tell and new memories to share.

Princess Cruises takes you to more amazing destinations than any other cruise line…

Mediterranean • Northern Europe • Alaska • Canada & New England Far East • Australia & New Zealand • Tahiti • Caribbean • Hawaii Panama Canal • South America • Mexico • World Cruise

beST cRUISe LIne ITIneRaRIeS 9 CONSECUTIVE YEARS RECOMMEND MAGAZINE

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To book or requesT a brochure contact your travel agent

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for luxurious over-water stilt huts. Complete with private verandas and teak-floor sundecks, the huts offer an exclusive feel where guests can relax while looking out over the beautiful shallow lagoon. Numerous restaurants offer unique dining experiences, including al fresco dining on the beach, and the spa offers yoga and treatments in the seclusion of a tropical garden.

Looking toward Nevis, St. Kitts, Caribbean

Huvanafen Fushi If you have ever wanted to unwind in an underwater spa, Huvanafen Fushi is the place to go. With windows looking out over real coral reefs, and a swimming pool underlit with hundreds of star-like spotlights, this is the ultimate indulgence. During the day there are excursions to spot dolphins, snorkel and cruise between the stunning atolls.

St Kitts, Caribbean Average temp: 25ÂşC Flight time: 5 hours

Creative Commons. Carolyn Sugg Š

Wild grasses and lush green forest cover the hilly Caribbean island of St Kitts, while white sand beaches and sapphire-blue waters encircle the coast, providing that perfect mix of relaxation and adventure on any winter holiday. Peak season for the island is December, due to the warm weather and annual carnival held throughout the month.

Carnival events include fetes, calypso dance competitions, live band nights, parades and talent competitions.

Away from the lively towns and villages, the countryside offers a myriad of complex ecosystems home to diverse wildlife. St Kitts is a top destination for birdwatching, offering a huge range of spectacular sightings, including the American Kestrel, Brown Pelican, Bananaquit, and Blackwhiskered Vire. Take your camera and tripod out to the Northern, Central and Southern mountain ranges and watch the birds fly, feed and interact in their natural habitat.

For those hoping to swap damp England for a sun-drenched beach, St Kitts has OCEAN VIEW 35

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Creative Commons, Terri Needham ©

plenty to offer. From the black sand, palm lined Dieppe Bay Beach, to the secluded surfing paradise of Half Moon Bay, there are enough beaches fringing the island for everyone to enjoy a day of relaxation in the sun and surf.

Above the shallows of Pump Bay, you can find the UNESCO World Heritage site of Brimstone Hill Fortress, looming magnificently on the hill with wonderful panoramic views over the western coastline.

Enjoy the natural laid-back rhythms of the Caribbean with a glass of rum and a plate of ‘goat water’ stew (made with goat stock and meat), or sample some of the island’s native fish cooked in the traditional creole style.

Caribbean Sea Maldives

Luxury hotels on St Kitts include: Ottleys Plantation Inn Ottleys is a peaceful, historic sugar plantation-turned luxury hotel. Enjoy onsite rainforest trails, tennis courts, croquet, cottages with private pools and jacuzzi, not to mention panoramic ocean views and a spring-fed swimming pool.

Tenerife

We hope these winter warmer ideas have inspired you to haul your suitcase back out of the roof, rescue your summer clothes from storage and get booking that perfect beach holiday. While the rest of England shivers - all you have to do is take another sip of that giant fruity cocktail, feel the sun on your skin and feel smug.

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Creative Commons, Santiago P.A. ©

Montpelier Plantation Inn Relax in a secluded sixty-acre estate 750 feet up in the hills of sister island Nevis.

All 19 hotel rooms have a sea view, with a private beach a short walk away. Enjoy hiking, biking, fishing, horse riding and sailing in this exclusive resort.

Creative Commons, Nattu ©

Four Seasons St Kitts Experience the classic Four Seasons service at this beach-front resort offering all of the mod-cons in a beautiful tropical environment. Tennis, windsurfing, volleyball, diving, sailing and golf are just some of the activities on offer on-site.

Three Generations of Art at Best of Barbados Made with love in Barbados - a story of arts, crafts and success in the Caribbean sunshine

F

rom small beginnings in November 1975, family owned business Best of Barbados Gift Shops has grown into a successful enterprise on the sunny Caribbean island of Barbados. It was founded by artist, Jill Walker and her architect husband, Jimmy, who set out to encourage local craft by selling only things made or designed in Barbados. On the island at that time local handicraft was very limited and unemployment high, so their shop encouraged local craft by selling only things made in Barbados. Today, 39 years on, the family tradition is proudly continued by the Walker’s youngest daughter, Sue Trew and her husband, Chris.

Since settling in Barbados in the 1950s, Jill has been painting her colourful 38 OCEAN VIEW

surroundings, becoming best known for her local scenes and her attractive giftware designs. Although now retired, she still paints and is delighted to have been joined by her daughter, Sue, and Sue’s daughter Holly, both of whom now sell their art and designs in the family gift shops. Their five locations - including one in the Bridgetown Cruise Terminal and another in the Airport Departure Lounge - provide customers with the largest variety of attractive and imaginative craft, quality giftware and art on the island, in a happy shopping environment with a warm, friendly Bajan smile.

To celebrate their unique three generations of art, the family exhibited together in March 2012 in a vibrant and colourful ‘Three Generation Art Show’ in Barbados.

The show was a huge success and a happy family event. Jill, a very private person, was delighted at the appreciation so many visitors to the exhibition showed for her art and her historical record of what is fast becoming a disappearing way of life.

Jill knew she wanted to be an artist from a very early age and pursued her passion tirelessly. Born in England in 1927, she was determined to break away from the hard post-war years and borrowed money from her father for a one-way ticket on a freighter to visit a friend in South America.

Travelling simply, with an atlas under one arm and her paints under the other, she set off to make her fortune as an artist and happily, on her very first night, fate would have it that she was introduced to a young

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bachelor, Jimmy Walker. The Caribbean in the 1950s was an idyllic place for this young couple setting out together, she the gifted artist, he the ambitious architect. Jill soon fell in love with the people and the culture and has been recording life in the Caribbean ever since.

With her daughters now grown up, Sue is able to spend more time painting – and what began as a tentative hobby in October 2008, is today a full blown passion. Her love of turtles in particular has inspired a beautiful line of merchandise now featured in their gift shops, including trays, beach towels, placemats, coasters, t-shirts, napkins and chopping boards. Most recently Sue has written and illustrated two beautiful children’s books on turtles – ‘Turtle Tracks’ and ‘Happy Hatchlings’ which, sold along with a cute line of hatchling plush toys, are hugely popular with children.

Holly, growing up in Barbados, developed a great passion for the sea and her love for everything oceanic is reflected in her paintings. Inspiration also came from her exciting nine months aboard a Norwegian tall ship. Now aged 22, Holly is a graduate in Marine Biology from Dalhousie University in Halifax, Nova Scotia. She continues to demonstrate she’s a remarkable

young lady with a strong vision and zest for life which shines from her bold art.

It is a thrill for Jill to see the continuation of her life’s passion in the work of her daughter and granddaughter and they, in turn, are happy to be able to offer encouragement to a grand master whose hand isn’t always quite so steady, but whose love and talent for painting is as strong as ever.

Each year Jill and Sue still work together to create new lines for their many repeat customers. This year it’s ‘Dream Barbados’ pillowcases … so you can visit paradise every night when you fall asleep! They are all hand screen printed at their head office in the renovated sugar boiling house at Welches Plantation. Opened in the 1980s, their screen printing studio demonstrates a very ancient art and curious visitors are always amazed at how each design takes months to prepare - each stage being completed by hand.

We invite you to visit a Best of Barbados Gift Shop when you’re in Barbados and see for yourself the extensive selection they offer or browse on their website www.bestof-barbados.com. You’ll be sure to discover that this chain of Barbadian gift shops is a truly family affair!

“Since settling in Barbados in the 1950s, Jill has been painting her colourful surroundings, becoming best known for her local scenes and her attractive giftware designs” OCEAN VIEW 39

50 40 OCEAN VIEW

Water Adventures to do Before you Die We pick our favourite two adventures from the new book published by Adlard Coles

BOOK EXTRACT

06

Stay at the Ice Hotel in Sweden Sleep in a palace built entirely from blocks of frozen water. Lie back on a bed of ice, in a room made from ice and snow. The bedside table, the chairs, the floor, the walls – everything is familiar but not quite normal. Carved to mimic the texture of fabric, function as pieces of furniture or just for the sheer artistic joy of it, the ice has been manipulated into something mindblowingly other. A stay at the ICEHOTEL is a water adventure of the frozen kind.

From the outside the ICEHOTEL appears unimposing, a giant single-storey igloo of modern design. You step inside to discover a warren of intriguing spaces, of fabulous arched passageways and snow-walled corridors. You recognise the material as ice, but this is ice transformed, water sculpted into fantastic three-dimensional shapes.

Outside temperatures range from -20oC to

-40oC, but inside the temperature is only just below freezing. Kitted out in a special ICEHOTEL suit with insulated boots and mittens, you will not be cold.

On the guided tour you will learn that the building is constructed from high-density ‘snice’, a hybrid of the words ‘snow’ and ‘ice’, which is carefully packed to reflect the sun’s rays and protect the hotel from melting. The décor, fixtures and fittings are all made from 3000 tonnes of ice blocks harvested from the Torne River and it is back to this same artery that the meltwater from the hotel eventually flows.

Art museum by day, novelty hotel by night, spend the afternoon strolling around the 65 suites of this magical space. Marvel at the ice chandelier in the hallway, translucent and sharp like cut glass. Wander into the sanctuary of the chapel, which is frequently

used for weddings. Designed and sculpted by different artists from around the world, no two spaces in the building are the same.

There are ‘snow rooms’ and ‘snow features’, where the medium is white and opaque, giving the appearance of softness and warmth. Then there are whole crystal caverns with transparent walls and seethrough sofas and armchairs. Each room is artfully lit, the light reflected, absorbed and dispersed by the interior furnishings – furnishings being an understatement for the features fashioned inside.

The bed frames may be blocks of ice, but with luxurious soft mattresses on top covered in reindeer skin you will hardly be able to wait to go to bed.

After a colourful nightcap, drinking from a glass made of ice, head to the reception desk to collect your thermal polar-tested sleeping bag. Earlier you will have stored your other clothes and personal items in a locked luggage room in the warm building, to prevent them from freezing in your room overnight. The bed is remarkably comfortable and once zipped up in your sleeping bag, you may be too excited to sleep! While there are no doors per se, only privacy curtains, the bed is tucked away and the ‘snice’ walls absorb all sound. Warm and cosy, expect to drift off cocooned inside the set of a futuristic galaxy.

Fly via Stockholm to Kiruna airport, which is about 20 minutes by car from the hotel. Spend a single night in a cold suite and a couple more in the ‘warm accommodation’, the chalet-style complex next door. While the ICEHOTEL is one of six located in Scandinavia alone, the Jukkasjärvi ICEHOTEL was a world first in 1990 and remains the largest. Situated 200 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle, the Jukkasjärvi ICEHOTEL is nestled in the heart of Lapland. Built anew every year, the hotel opens room by room until the building is fully operational by mid-January.

Daytime excursions include reindeer sleigh rides and husky sledding across frozen lakes towards distant hills and through forests of white-coated fir trees. Icesculpting classes are an option, but an outing OCEAN VIEW 41

BOOK EXTRACT by snowmobile to see the Northern Lights is a must.

Bring plenty of warm layers to insulate your body and remember to avoid using water-based facial moisturisers as these can cause frostbite. Double occupancy sleeping bags are available, although sleeping in thermal underwear, long johns and a longsleeved vest is still recommended.

Seemingly frozen in time, yet obviously ephemeral, your visit is a special moment in the finite existence of the hotel. A place of stark contrasts, of brief sunshine and long hours of night, of temperature and of striking colour, you may wake up wondering if the ICEHOTEL was just a dream. But however otherworldly your experience, the ICEHOTEL will definitely still be there in the morning – at least until the end of March!

07

Wild swim in France Stretch out your arms and launch into the lush turquoise blue. Feel your body cool off as you glide through clear mountain spring water in the summer heat. Follow the ripples emanating in ever-widening circles as you move. When you’ve swum a distance, stop and float, allowing the water to draw in around your face. Absorb the stillness of your surroundings until you feel revitalised.

Then touch down on the smooth pebbles and step out to bask on a warm, flat rock, letting your body dry off naturally in the breeze.

For the cleanest, most tantalising waters in Europe, pack your swimsuit and head to the south of France. Kick back for a few days and soak up some superb swimming in the great outdoors. Less than two hours’ drive inland from the crowded beaches of the Mediterranean lies a forgotten gem, an oasis of water divided between the Var and Alpes-

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de-Hautes-Provence regions of France.

The second-largest man-made reservoir in France, the Lac de Sainte-Croix is a mountain pool framed by the Haut-Var and Valensole hills. Through the combination of white limestone bedrock and glacial flour (glacial silt that becomes suspended in the water), the lake appears iridescent. The colours on the surface of the water range from intense azure blue, emerald and jade through to soft pastel hues.

Base yourself in the south-eastern corner of the lake in the medieval village of Bauduen, with its pretty terracottatiled roofs. A rural mountain village, Bauduen was run-down and derelict prior to 1974, when the lake was formed and the hydroelectric dam was commissioned.

Now situated at the lake’s side, the village boasts a gorgeous beach and clear water for

snorkelling. Enjoy a cool glass of Sauvignon Blanc as the sun melts over the hills to the west. At very low water, look out for thespire of the old church of Sainte-Croixde-Verdon, the village that was submerged when the Lac de Sainte-Croix was created.

Further along the southern edge of the lake from Bauduen lies ‘La Défens’, a scrubby forested headland several kilometres long and one of the wildest sections of landscape in the area. Climb up the sheer cliffs to take in the view and take a plunge into the deep pool glistening below. Long white stretches of sand outline the mid-section of the lake and there are a number of busy campsites set back from the shore. Hike a short distance and find an inlet with a secluded beach. If there’s nobody else around, be bold! Strip off and take a refreshing dip ‘au naturel’. Gliding into the

lake, you can take sips of pure alpine spring water as you swim along.

At the north-eastern neck of the lake, don’t miss the opportunity to swim down the Verdon Gorge. An almost invisible slot in the mountain wall hides the wild and deep chasm where the rushing green waters of the Verdon River enter the lake. Smaller but with geology similar to the Grand Canyon in Arizona, the Verdon Gorge formed as a result of earth movements when the Alps were ‘growing’ upwards, and from erosion of the Jurassic limestone by the Verdon River. Before you leave, take a scenic drive along the road that follows the river. Stop to explore the three distinct sections: the Prégorges (‘pre-gorge’) which goes from Castellane to Pont de Soleils; the gorge itself, from Pont de Soleils to l’Imbut; and the Verdon Gorge, which flows from l’Imbut down into the lake. Swim through the winding passage of ‘The Styx’, at l’Imbut, the part of the gorge that gets progressively narrower, until it is just metres across. Shady and deliciously cool, follow the river until it disappears underground in breathtaking fashion, beneath vast rock structures.

Situated 475 metres above sea level on the open Plateau de Valensole, the Lac de Sainte-Croix has a feeling of endless space and light. From inlets to deserted coves, from rocky cliff promontories to white pebbly beaches and the spectacular Verdon Gorge, the lake has abundant natural bathing spots and atmospheric plunge pools. Whether you swim or clamber along the glacial rocks, prepare to marvel at the incredible geology and gorgeous turquoisecoloured water. Delightfully off the tourist trail, look beyond the busy French Riviera and swim free – in the wild.

50 Water Adventures To Do Before You Die by Lia Ditton Published by Adlard Coles £16.99 www.bloomsbury.com

“Gigantes Barcelona” by larry&flo ©

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Amberley House Cottages If you are one of the many travellers about to embark from the port at Southampton, Portsmouth or Dover, or flying from Gatwick Airport to somewhere exotic, then chances are you have just skirted past one of the most beautiful counties in the country!

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PALERMO Cathedral view

Travelling light:

Crossing Sicily in ancestral footsteps

By David Charles Manners

M

y Great Uncle William was kidnapped on his honeymoon.

He and his new bride, my Great Aunt Annie, had been travelling through Sicily and Southern Italy in the spring of 1865 with so many trunks and cases that a rumour circulated they were aristocrats laden with a fortune in gold and silver.

When William was dragged away by gun-wielding ruffians, Annie locked herself in her hotel room. She remained behind her barricade for weeks, pacing the carpet and muffling her sobs with a cushion. Only when she realised that if she were to see William again she would have to fight for him herself did she finally dry her tears, fasten her corset and step back into the sunlight.

Annie’s first task was to raise the enormous ransom, courtesy of her relations and an obliging Indian Maharaja. She then rode into the mountains of Campania, determined to track down the brigands and insist they return her husband safely to her 46 OCEAN VIEW

arms. Three long months later, they were finally reunited.

The adventures of William and Annie were often recounted by my grandmother.

Even as a young boy, I determined to one day pursue their route as recorded in a treasury of surviving letters, diaries and maps.

When the opportunity eventually arrived, I took careful note of what Charles Dickens had considered to be ‘the moral’ of their story: ‘namely, do not travel with much luggage’! I therefore arrived in Sicily with nothing more than a one-way ticket, a portfolio of unidentified photographs taken

by William on their fateful journey – and a very modest rucksack.

On first sight the island’s capital, Palermo is a wonderland of palaces, domes, campaniles and terracotta roofs that rises from a sweeping bay hemmed by craggy peaks. Its promenade of aristocratic houses, fortress walls and city gates extends from the harbour to a paradise of ornamental

parks and botanical gardens. Behind them lies a maze of lava-paved streets bursting with noise, colour, fabulous food and a rich history reflected in exuberant architecture.

This is, after all, an island that has been ruled by Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Goths, Saracens, Normans, the French, Spanish, Neapolitan Bourbons and, since unification, Italians. Even the British took command for nine years during their battles with Napoleon; still today, Nelson’s apartments above the arsenal survive beside the city’s docks.

Annie and William spent their months in Palermo at the Hotel Trinacria, where Garibaldi – ‘Mr. Biscuit’, as my grandmother called him – had declared his celebrated war-cry, ‘Rome or Death!’, as he prepared to march his men against the Papal States. The building they knew still stands, but is now converted into flats. I therefore chose to rent a serviced apartment above the old Arab market, which proved very much cheaper and larger than anything the city’s

SYRACUSE

hotels offered. One of the many delights of my accommodation was being woken each morning by a chorus of fishermen as they laid out their night’s catch. They would soon be joined by traders piling stalls with fruit and vegetables, cheese, oils, homemade pastries, preserves and puddings. Even village bakers drew up daily in vintage Fiats, selling oven-warm loaves directly from their rusty boots. The resulting scents and sounds rising from the streets below ensured I always threw back my sheets ravenous for breakfast.

In the evenings, once the market had been cleared away, I was lullabied by a wheezy organ in the Baroque church opposite my balcony. On the steps below, groups of men in black suits gathered to exchange cigarettes, kisses and – it appeared by all the fervent whispering – dangerous secrets.

Just a short walk away, Uncle William had once set up his giant box camera and laid out his chemistry-set to photograph the exterior of the cathedral. And no wonder.

I found myself so captivated by the riot of bell-towers, cupolas and Islamic-inspired decoration that I made sure I passed it at least once a day.

Nearby stands the Norman Palace with its jewel-like Palatine Chapel and the observatory that had intrigued Annie with

PIAZZA ARMERINA

its state-of-the-art Prussian telescope.

Across the road lie the remains of Medieval cloisters, only discovered when surrounding buildings collapsed. William’s response to the news had been to order ladders to descend into the ruins. He left Annie to attempt a conversation with the custodian’s wife – only for her to discover, with some despair, that for all the months of Italian lessons she not could understand a word of the island’s impenetrable Siculu language.

A stroll beyond the city wall and through a poor quarter, where children cluster round

grisly grins troubled my sleep for days to come, just as they had hers.

Back out in sunlight, I sought distraction in the Villa Malfitano, once home to the Whitakers: friends of Uncle William who had made their fortune in the trade of Marsala wine. Their Liberty-style mansion is now open to be explored at leisure, its plush parlours, bedrooms, studies and ballroom left as though the family has just stepped out for the afternoon, enabling all the servants to take a sneaky nap. Beyond the windows lie acres of lush gardens, brimming with botanical specimens – and a banyan tree just begging to be climbed.

A short bus ride through scented groves of oranges and almonds, leads to the Benedictine monastery of Monreale, where the vast interior of the cathedral is a paradise of Byzantine glass mosaics. Even so, I could not help but think of poor Aunt Annie, who, as a woman, had been made to wait outside whilst William had photographed the cloisters. He had then stayed on to feast with the monks, all of whom, she later crossly reported, lived far from secluded lives, not only running about in private carriages and taking in the newspapers, but building steam-engines and inventing flyingmachines.

On return to Palermo I found Santo Ciro, where in caverns behind the abandoned

communal pumps and elderly men ride pony traps, leads to a place that had long left its mark on Annie: the Capuchin catacombs.

She had clung to William in horror as he led her with an oil lamp between the press of 8,000 mummified corpses, feral cats scurrying around their feet giving Annie palpitations. Even today, the ‘dried and shrunken forms of men, women, and children, richly arrayed in ball-dresses … the ghastly rows of priests, in full canonicals, with their servants by their sides’ that so traumatised Annie are all still there.

And sure enough, their empty eyes and

OCEAN VIEW 47 River View - London Bridge, London

Photography by David Charles Manners ©

“One of the many delights of my accommodation was being woken each morning by a chorus of fishermen”

neys and in ur.”

TAORMINA Greek Theatre

church William had dug for dinosaurs. His enthusiasm to raise a giant shoulder blade caused part of it to break, slicing through his finger; a wound that festered so severely even his ardour was briefly damped for collecting fossil bones. Perhaps, then, it was in familial sympathy that I suffered my own mishap at these bone caves: a tumble down a cliff face that left me sore and limping for the coming days.

However, mere bruises could not diminish my desire for new adventures. I was therefore soon hiking up Monte Catalfamo to find the sun-baked ruins of Solunto, a city founded by Phoenicians. Then on through abandoned Baroque mansions to the beaches of Bagheria, where Annie and William had ignored the threat of bandits to gather prehistoric shells.

Back in the heart of the city I paid respects to Garibaldi’s Thousand, who stared back – both in life and death – from fading photographs in the museum of the Risorgimento. I took tea in the Art Nouveau splendours of Villa Igiea, before wincing at the chinoiserie madness of the Favorita Palace. I talked my way past surly guards to wander the mansion of Coco Chanel’s jewellery designer, Fulco di Verdura. And I laughed aloud at the mistranslated restaurant menus offering ‘grated horse’, ‘fish full of 48 OCEAN VIEW

fog’ and – most tempting of all – ‘flakes of nuisance’.

One morning, after a traditional Palermitan breakfast of gelato in a brioche bun, I mounted Monte Pellegrino: the rocky promontory pierced by holm oaks and spiny acacias that rises 2,000 feet above the harbour. Annie had climbed its slopes on her thirty-eighth birthday, holding fast to William’s umbrella for support. Whilst he had searched for fossil teeth in cliff caverns, she had boldly cast aside her crinoline to picnic on ‘rough bread and ricotta cheese’ amongst violets, spurge and cacti. In their honour, therefore, I threw off my shoes, ate an identical picnic and even explored the very same caves.

My final night in Palermo was spent in the company of an elegant, erudite aristocrat.

He guided me through the rooms of his palace with an avuncular hand resting on my shoulder, regaling me with tales of the city’s cultural life before the war and his childhood memories of such tricky houseguests as the Woolfs and Sitwells. However, it was the paintings of his ancestors, glaring down at us from gilded frames with dark, reproachful eyes, that made the most impression. None more so than the portrait of an obstinate ancestral aunt, whose glassy stare and drooping chin were the result of her sitting

for the artist only after she had expired.

Sicily’s moderate size permits bus journeys to be an easy means of navigating the island – so long as you have patience, no trust in timetables and a hardy sense of humour. There had been no choice for William and Annie but to take a steamboat to Agrigento on the southern coast; the few passable inland roads were then under constant threat of marauding robber gangs.

In contrast, I could reach the hill town on a comfortable coach in little more than two hours, unmolested through a rugged landscape dried to dust by summer sun.

First impressions were not favourable.

Unchecked post-war development has turned historic Agrigento into Croydon on a hill. It took determination through a warren of narrow alleys and steep stairways to reveal an older, grander heart. The town was further redeemed by my new lodgings: a splendid room in a handsome house, with flower-filled terraces overlooking the single reason for William and Annie’s sea journey: the ruins of the Ancient Greek city of Akragas.

On my first morning, I showed William’s photographs to my host, a delightful man who plays Chopin on his grand-piano every evening to soothe his guests for sleep. My hope was that he might tell me whether he recognised any sites as being local.

‘Ask our professor!’ he replied, pointing to a smartly dressed gentleman overeating pastries in the corner. ‘Prefers my breakfasts to his wife’s. Also happens to be District Director of Archaeology.’

Dr. Giovanni was so astonished when I laid the pictures across his tablecloth that he coughed an icing-sugar cloud. It was the first time he had seen these monuments before full excavation. It was therefore entirely courtesy of Uncle William’s passion for photography that I found myself escorted on a private tour of the seven temples of the Acropolis, the forgotten sanctuary of Demeter, and shrines once dedicated to gods of Fire and Medicine now lost amongst the orchards.

As the recipient of such generous hospitality, I did not like to mention that

MONREALE

SYRACUSE Latomia dei Cappuccini

that I found myself gasping with delight as I rounded corners. Especially striking was the surviving Temple of Athena, its Doric columns defiantly pressing through the Christian cathedral later set within its walls.

With effort, I traced the so-called Baths of Daphne: secret Jewish ritual fonts, in which a flushed William had observed the local washerwomen wallowing in a surf of suds.

Even the local fishermen selling sea-urchins and octopuses on the portside still have the bare legs, sun-blackened skin and intense far-seeing eyes that Annie had described.

I descended steps beneath the ruined

basilica of San Giovanni to study exquisite frescoes in the crypt, where early Christians fed wine and milk to their dead through copper pipes inserted into tombs, anticipating an imminent resurrection. Then down into the vault-lined streets and gravefilled piazzas of the catacombs, emptied of their 10,000 corpses when the city’s entire population made them their home during the Allied Blitz.

It had been the extensive ruins of Neapolis, once a country suburb of the Ancient Greek city, that had drawn William and Annie here. I therefore followed them OCEAN VIEW 49

Photography by David Charles Manners ©

William and Annie had despised Agrigento and its population. Not only had they endured ‘dirty and miserable’ rooms, but violence, extortion and robbery. The blame for this William had, perhaps rather unfairly, put upon a single individual: the town’s British Consul, Alfred Oates. When I then found at the door of my hotel a queue of this very man’s descendants, who had been informed of my arrival and wished to embrace me as though I were some long-lost cousin, I responded warmly, smiled for their cameras – and kept quiet that my great-uncle had dismissed their honoured forebear as an ‘Englishman in name only, when at heart he is a corrupt and shameless knave’!

I journeyed on by buses through a Sicilian Arcadia: a magical landscape of mountains inhabited only by shepherds in country dress – shin-length trousers, short jackets and floppy caps – wandering with their woolly charges. The impression of a mythical geography was further enhanced when I skirted Lake Pergusa, where distant generations believed Persephone had once been snatched into the underworld by Hades, thereby drawing winter to their world.

I paused at Piazza Armerina to visit an astonishing 3,500 square metres of the finest Roman mosaic floors I have ever seen, preserved intact for centuries beneath a landslide. With a head full of Hercules and a stomach full of chocolate-dipped cannoli, I then pushed on to the island’s eastern coast.

Annie had been especially taken by Syracuse, a city once greater in size and grandeur than ancient Athens. As I crossed the bridge to the original island settlement of Ortygia, I understood her enthusiasm. The buildings are elegant and well-kept, whilst across the bay lies the papyrus-filled Plain of Anapus and the legendary mountains of Hybla, long famed for their precious, thymescented honey.

I rented a rooftop flat in a Renaissance mansion in the old Jewish quarter – and on stepping into its spacious, light-filled rooms, with terrace views of church facades, antique roofs and azure Mediterranean, felt certain I could easily settle there for good.

Syracuse is so filled with historic beauty

DAVID MANNERS

Photography by David Charles Manners ©

TAORMINA view to Etna

through pomegranates, cypresses and wild pears to stand in the very theatre where Aeschylus’s plays had been premiered in his presence.

I wandered alone through the Capuchin Latomia: an ancient limestone quarry, thirty metres deep, where the victorious Spartans had held their slaves during the Peloponnesian War. Friars had later transformed the vast pits into an enchanted, perfumed garden of plumbago, jessamine, camellia and myrtle. I sat beneath the zigzag twigs of a Judas tree for my picnic of smoked mozzarella, crusty bread and peaches – and found myself as entranced by this hidden Eden as had been Aunt Annie.

When I finally pulled myself away to board another bus, it was to follow a coast coloured by geraniums until I reached Taormina: a cliff-top town made fashionable when Florence Trevelyan, a ward of Queen Victoria banished from Britain for her affair with Prince Edward, settled here on a royal pension and began creating gardens. She had soon been followed by a remarkably creative set, including Von Gloeden, Wilde, Nietzsche, Waugh, Capote and Krishnamurti – some of whom came to indulge in pastimes that would have had them arrested anywhere else in Europe.

‘You’re English,’ my landlord discerned as he handed me my key. ‘So was Mr. Lawrence.’

‘Quite possibly,’ I replied, disappointed 50 OCEAN VIEW

ETNA lower slopes

my budget lodgings promised no hint of the decadence for which the town had gained its reputation.

‘Never heard of Mrs. Chatterley?’ he asked.

‘Ah, D. H. Lawrence.’

‘As I said. Well, he used to live on the hill behind us – and pay my grandfather to seduce his wife every Tuesday afternoon.’

Of course William and Annie’s attraction to Taormina had been purely archaeological.

They had come to record the grandeur of the Greco-Roman theatre, an impressive ruin that boasts by far the most dramatic backdrop on the island: Mount Etna.

The volcano is an astonishing sight and one that held me captivated, both day and night, throughout my stay. Its brooding bulk dominates the landscape, either billowing in angry threat or gently puffing like a steam train. William and Annie braved an expedition up its flanks on mules to photograph a particularly spectacular eruption. They were fascinated by the heat and smells that made them faint, and that coins laid on molten lava were soon reduced to ‘nothing more than fumes’.

I began my own ascent of Etna by jeep, first through orange and olive groves, then higher into pistachio and cactus. As the road came to its end, I continued by foot through yellow broom, oak and chestnut forests, until I found myself in another world entirely: a cold and treeless desert of

looming cinder dunes dotted with mouldlike blooms of lichen.

I climbed as high as my footing in the shifting ash would allow to look back across a shimmering panorama far below. Then out to a gleaming sea, over which William and Annie had sailed with no inkling of the dangers awaiting them in the mountains of Calabria that define the distant horizon.

I would pursue the final stage of their ill-fated route another day. For now, I would continue on through this beautiful, savage landscape pierced by ancient temples; its handsome, historic towns inhabited by welcoming, friendly people. And then, of course, there was their food.

My instinct to arrive on a one-way ticket might have been impulsive. But now with Sicily spread before me, its promise and all its wonder alight with sunshine, my heart began to speed with new excitement: the realisation that however hard I looked and however much I thought, I really could find no reason to ever want to leave.

David Charles Manners’ latest book, Limitless Sky, describes his years of training with a Nepalese shaman in the Himalayan foothills of North Bengal. His first book, In the Shadow of Crows, recounts a journey across India that led to a friendship in a leprosy colony and the founding of Sarvashubhamkara, a charity working with ostracised individuals and communities. www.davidcharlesmanners.com

www.carbisbayholidays.co.uk/ov 01736 630 015

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A History of Romance The Shelleys Hotel in Lewes Lottie Dowdeswell reviews her experience of this historic hotel

Christmas Package Enjoy a 2 night stay with us over the Festive Season for £460.00. This price is inclusive of 3 course Dinner on 24th December, Breakfast on 25th December and a 7 course Christmas Day Lunch, breakfast on Boxing Day before your departure. This is based on a Standard bedroom for 2 adults.

Add an additional £30.00 per night for Superior Rooms.

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The Medieval town of Lewes, East Sussex, is home to many beautiful old buildings.

One such building is a country house hotel known as The Shelleys. With its immaculate lawns, enchanting ‘secret garden’ and close proximity to the ancient castle, this really is a true hidden gem of the South East – and I can’t wait to explore it.

A House with a Story

The now family-run hotel has a long and fascinating history that dates back to the 1520s, when the original inn, known then as ‘The Vine’, was first built. Since then, the building has undergone a number of renovations and extensions, the first of which was carried out by the 4th Earl of Dorset who converted the inn into a fine manor house in 1590. The house was then sold to Henry Shelley in 1661, a relation of the famous romantic poet Percy Bysshe

Shelley. The Shelleys lived there until the 19th century, when the house was bought by lawyer John Hodgkin, who lived there happily with his family for many years, keeping pigs and chickens in a small farm at the back. Interestingly, guests today can still see where all the Hodgkin children’s heights were recorded on the lounge door.

The beautiful gardens were first landscaped by a young Alfred Waterhouse – the very same Alfred Waterhouse who later became famous for designing the Natural History Museum in London.

Today, The Shelleys is a grade II* listed property. As soon as you enter the comfortable lobby, you get the sensation that you’ve slipped back in time, what with its imposing sweeping staircase, understated elegance and sophisticated decor. In total there are nineteen luxury boutique rooms, all en-suite and each designed

“As soon as you enter the comfortable lobby, you get the sensation that you’ve slipped back in time, what with its imposing sweeping staircase, understated elegance and sophisticated decor” and decorated in keeping with the lavish Georgian style.

Upon our arrival, a kind receptionist welcomed us in and showed us to our rooms. The feeling of slipping back in time heightened as we climbed the stairs, passing beautiful paintings and guilt mirrors as we went. The bedroom was beautiful and everything you’d expect from a country house hotel: large, with an enormous fireplace, heavy curtains and antique furniture demanding attention.

Refined afternoon tea

For afternoon tea we were lead out to the brick-paved terrace overlooking the lawn – and as it was such a beautiful day, it seemed silly not to enjoy a glass of bubbles in the sunshine as we perused the afternoon tea menu. We were spoilt for choice on the sandwich front, with offerings including smoked salmon, eggs, chicken and avocado and of course the traditional cucumber filling. We went for the egg and smoked salmon sandwiches on white bread and ordered Earl Grey tea to wash it down.

There was even a choice between fruit or vanilla scones, ensuring that our every whim was taken care of. The afternoon tea was served on a three tiered cake stand with raspberry jam and clotted cream in individual pots and each decorated with fresh fruit on the top tier, followed by large warm scones and bite sized squares of gooey chocolate and zingy lemon cake –

not forgetting the tier of sandwiches which was served with bowls of salad and juicy tomberries.

As we walked back to our rooms we walked through the stylish and award-winning Apostrophe Restaurant, which was every bit as opulent as expected with floor length white tablecloths and perfectly polished glasswear, marrying well with the imposing chandeliers that lit the room atmospherically from the ceilings high above. We were pleased to note that the a la carte lunch and dinner menu was available within the restaurant through out the day.

All in all, The Shelleys offers a discreet service, with impeccable standards and with staff who anticipate your every need, placing The Shelleys at the very top of my list of favourite places to stay in East Sussex!

New Years Eve Package The Shelleys is the perfect setting for a Murder Mystery Dinner. We are offering you Bed and Breakfast, a 3 Course Dinner, your Murder Mystery entertainment over dinner, a fabulous Cabaret Act taking you up to midnight, when we will serve you a glass of Prosecco and serve Canapés to see in the New Year, Limited availability. Standard Package £280.00 Superior Package £310.00 Suite Package £370.00 based on 2 adults sharing

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A Turkish Delight For All The Family

Ocean View’s Publisher Lee Mansfield took his wife Emmah and two children, Evie, 6 and Amelie, 8 to Hillside Beach Resort near Fethiye

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t’s not often that I get to enjoy a whole week away with my family, since a great deal of my time at home is spent juggling numerous businesses. For me, the ideal holiday is one where I can kick my feet back and relax; where my kids can run off on their own adventures while we lounge by the pool. No stress, no worries and certainly no business calls.

Our first thought was the Caribbean - but with an average flight time of nine hours, 54 OCEAN VIEW

we decided we didn’t want to waste two of our precious eight days on a plane so we narrowed our search down. We wanted somewhere sunny, somewhere exclusive and somewhere truly luxurious that would enable us to escape and unwind while providing enough fun and entertainment for the children.

It took just under four hours to fly from London to Dalaman in Turkey, and another hour to drive to Hillside Beach Club. We

entered through the secure, gated driveway and 30 minutes later found ourselves by the giant aqua-blue pool overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, with the chaos of London well and truly behind us.

Some people hate the idea of an allinclusive holiday resort. It conjures images of cringe-worthy cabaret, garish cocktails and British teenagers celebrating end of exams. But there was nothing tacky about Hillside. From the fresh, light decor

Monastery of St. Vincent Outside the Walls, or Iglesia de Sao Vicente de Fora in Lisbon, Portugal.

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A haven for people and wildlife www.sark.co.uk

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inside the hotel to the netted hammocks and romantic lanterns at Serenity Beach (one of three private beaches), it was clear that Hillside had been designed with sophistication in mind.

Although the resort was part of the mainland, the secluded bay and surrounding forest-covered hills gave us the impression that we were on our own little island. The whole resort was gated and secure, offering peace of mind for parents with adventurous children like ours.

The staff too went to great lengths to understand all of our needs - not just mine and Emmah’s, but the girls’ too.

There was always someone looking out for them so we didn’t have to worry constantly about where they were.

incredible experiences is so important to me, and it was a great relief knowing that all of the activities at Hillside were overseen by trained experts in a safe and secure environment.

For active types of all ages there were plenty of outdoor, land-based sports on offer, including beach volleyball, football, archery, table tennis, darts and water polo in the pool. A number of fitness classes

distance and the sunshine beating down, I could understand why so many guests liked to wile away their afternoons there.

Entertainment

In the evenings we were treated to spectacular entertainment shows led by professional performers. There wasn’t an overweight Freddy Mercury tribute act in sight - it was all quality entertainment with a wide variety of themes, including all-night Beach Parties for the young at heart, Broadway-style shows, fireworks and even special surprise evenings such as Zumba Fitness Parties, Full Moon Parties and Classical Music Over the Sea. We were also impressed with how friendly and warm the performers themselves were - we met them on numerous occasions during the day and they always remembered our names.

It was easy to socialise with other families and make new friends at Hillside because the mood was light: everybody was relaxed and having fun. There was a spirit of Joie de vivre here that you just don’t find in England.

“It was easy to socialise with other families and make new friends at Hillside because the mood was light: everybody was relaxed and having fun.”

Activities

There was no need to worry about the children getting bored. We were only at Hillside for eight days but we could easily have stayed another week without exhausting all of the opportunities and activities on offer. Amelie was just old enough to have a scuba diving lesson and Evie absolutely loved the waterskiing.

Being able to give my children these

were also available (to burn off the buffet breakfast), including Zumba, pilates, yoga, aqua fitness and even Latin dance lessons.

If you, like me, prefer to stay away from any unnecessary exercise while on holiday, there is always the option of ‘ArtSide’ - a series of arts and crafts workshops where you can learn skills such as silk painting, jewellery design, mosaic design, wood decoration and oil painting (to name just a few). With the ocean glimmering in the

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“There were also 140 varieties of dessert to choose from and a series of ‘light’ options for anybody mad enough to be watching their weight on holiday. ” Dining

I’m not usually a big fan of buffets - I prefer to be served at table - but despite this minor setback, the food at Hillside was exceptional. There were three restaurants to choose from. The Main Restaurant was the biggest, offering the option to sit inside or out. It had something called a ‘Magic Oven’ which offered daily surprises such as Turkish pizza and warm chocolate souffles.

There were also 140 varieties of dessert to choose from and a series of ‘light’ options for anybody mad enough to be watching their weight on holiday.

The two quieter dining options included Pasha on The Bay Restaurant, with the beautiful private bay serving as a back-drop, and Beach Bar & Restaurant (great for daytime BBQs). On one night Emmah and I asked the hotel to arrange a babysitter for the children so we could have a romantic evening out together at the Italian restaurant watching the sun set over the bay, before partying the night away at Pasha, which transformed into a nightclub after dark.

Guest Rooms

Our Superior Family Room had large terrace with a fantastic view over the bay. The girls’ bedroom was slightly smaller than ours and to get to it you had to walk across the terrace - something we weren’t too keen on for security reasons. Other than that, it was

wonderful. The decor was light and modern and the amenities included air conditioning, an LCD TV, complimentary WiFi, and a mini bar .

Relaxation

While the kids were kept entertained at Kids Club, Emmah and I sloped off to the Sanda Nature Spa, set in tranquil tropical gardens.

We opted for a couples massage and the calming scents, sound of trickling water and incredibly relaxing massage sent us both to sleep. There are loads of spa packages to choose from, including lemon and honey facials, aloe lavender wraps and a Balinese Boreh - a traditional scrub made from herbs and spices.

Back at the centre of the Club was the Sanda Spa, a cosmopolitan concept spa (like the luxury spas you find in London) with a jacuzzi, sauna and a traditional Turkish Hamam (which involves lying on a warm marble slab for a scrub down and massage, before getting into a giant steam bath and, if you’re feeling brave, finishing up with an ice massage).

Once we were scrubbed, sanded down and smelling of roses, we went back to Silent Beach - a private cove reserved exclusively for adults. Here we could lounge on the sand with nothing but the sound of the waves lapping the shore and the scent of pine trees drifting from the surrounding hills.

There were two other beaches at Hillside: Serenity Beach (another child-free enclave) and the Main Beach, a lively blue-flag beach with white sand, bars, cafes and sun loungers.

When it came to our last day, I felt relaxed, rejuvenated and - dare I say it ready to get back into the swing of real life back home. Many couples we spoke to return to Hillside every year. Their children love to come back and meet up with the friends they made last year - while the grown ups just can’t resist the lure of the Mediterranean sea and the fact that at Hillside, your every need is catered for. It just isn’t a place for stress. We’ll certainly be back again.

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R A V E L W I T H U S TO T H E W O R L D ’ S M O S T E X OT I C D E S T I N AT I O N S

Captain’s Choice is the acknowledged leader in luxury to remote and exotic destinations. Travelling with us you will stay in the finest available accommodation, dine on superb locally-inspired cuisine, and be taken care of throughout by a dedicated, experienced team which even includes a doctor.

THE WONDERS OF INDOCHINA Explore the bustling streets of Hanoi · Cruise on the stunning World-Heritage listed Ha Long Bay · Visit Saigon and the Chu Chi Tunnels · Enjoy a 7 night cruise along the Mekong · Visit the Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh · Watch the sun rise over the temple site of Angkor Wat. Prices from £9,055pp

THE HEART OF ANCIENT JAPAN Visit vibrant Tokyo · Enjoy a scenic drive up tMt Fuji · Discover the alpine town of Takayama and the Samurai centre of Kanazawa. Take part in a tea ceremony in ancient Kyoto · Ride the bullet train to Hiroshima and see the Itsukushima Shrine, and the Torii Gate · Visit Nagasaki.

Prices from £11,790pp

CALL 0800 012 6627 60 OCEAN VIEW

BURMA: A STEP BACK IN TIME Experience the magic of Mandalay · Discover the incomparable city of Bagan with its 2,000 temples · Visit the monastery of Mt Popa built atop an extinct volcano · Cruise the Irrawaddy · See the legendary leg-rowing fishermen and stilt houses of Inle Lake.

Prices from £11,830pp

C A P TA I N S C H O I C E . C O. U K

S I M P LY T H E F I N E S T WAY TO S E E T H E W O R L D

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