Travel

Africa. Each region of the massive continent has its own intrigue and pull. The southern tip has been dominated by the country of South Africa—these days better known for its fine wine and “first world accommodations” than for the apartheid state many of us vowed to dismantle many moons ago. Which is a good thing. Yet, there is a lesser known country in Southern Africa that promises its own wonder—the burgeoning country of Namibia, which gained its independence from South Africa in 1990. Namibia is a country of 2.3 million, but it is one of the least populated territories in the world – you may not see people, but you’d be hard pressed not to find a gaggle of baboons in the middle of the highway, or a pea-brained ostrich running in front of your car, cracking you up. Namibia is new but it is imprinted with the ancient, from the Etosha salt pan formed around 1000 million years ago to the nomadic tribes who to this day maintain the same way of life as their ancestors. It is a hodgepodge of peoples who mostly speak English: colonial German, British and Afrikaners mixed with the 12 distinct African tribes there.

By driving through the country, I truly was able to experience Namibia on my (and its) own terms, commandeering expansive, mostly paved roads, and quickly figuring out metric distances and the “wrong” side of the road (turns are weird at first.) As with any road trip, and especially this one, there are some absolute rules. One: Have lots of snacks. Two: Ditto on toilet paper and hand sanitizer. Three: Always have a camera at the ready. Four: Bring tunes (I was partial to Nina Simone, though Kanye drifted in quite a few times.) Five: Roll with an open heart. Cost: For 2 people in a 4x4 double cab automatic including first rate accommodations, meals, and activities, including safari and day trips: (N$49,848.00/US$4,156 in total). Prices vary during season. Average airfare between the US and Namibia is $1,900.

We began our sojourn in Windhoek, the country’s largest city, where we stayed at Rivendell, a compound of guest homes in a residential area of the capital. It was here that we met with David Cartwright, president of ATI Holidays (infotour-africa. com), who delivered the cars and maps the morning after our arrival for our planned self-drive itinerary. After about an hour-long orientation including detailed instructions on how to change a flat tire (which we actually needed!), it was time to hit the road! Facilities at Rivendell include satellite TV lounge, swimming pool, self-catering kitchen, honesty bar, free WiFi and rich continental breakfast. (rivendellnamibia.com)

Opposite Page: The majestic African bush elephants of Namibia on safari; Above: The rare desert-adapted elephants of Namibia are similar to the African bush elephant, but smaller, and with larger feet and longer legs.

The next morning we drove out of the city to Etosha Safari Lodge, with accommodations actually set in the 6,200 acre Etosha National Park. I was never a National Geographic kind of girl, but Etosha Park was beyond. On safari, we were sometimes feet away from elephants, majestic giraffe, scores of springbok, impala, and gorgeous bird species. We even spotted a rare black rhino, and happened upon the weirdest creature ever, a baby pangolin, a small scaled mammal with a tongue that runs longer than its body. Etosha is large enough that you can be alone with the animals (in the comfort of your own car) and not see more tourists than wildlife. Your photos will be the envy of all. (etoshanationalpark.co.za)

Gira es on safari at Etosha.

Huab is an off-the-beaten-path accommodation run by a gregarious Dutchman named Jan and his wife Suzi. Our first night there, Suzi gave us a fabulous laser light show, backed by a cold glass of champagne, fresh popcorn and antelope sausage. Under an inky African sky, mine eyes did see Scorpio, the Southern Cross (only visible in the Southern hemisphere) and the Milky Way. Jan also gave us an early morning walk, tracking animal prints, and identifying various flora and fauna. Add to that a real hot springs (and cool plunge) and the best olive cheese bread served at our communal dining table, and it’s obvious why Huab remains one of my favorites. (huab.com)

Perched on the lip of the Grootberg Plateau, with an infinite view down the Klip River Valley, Grootberg’s vista is so vast and old, that you literally expect a dinosaur to peek from beyond a mountain. The lodge consists of 16 thatched chalets, with hardwood verandas that project onto the view. One of the best offerings at Grootberg is a guided day trip to visit the Himba, a nomadic people who today still live without a semblance of modernity. Most fascinating is the Himba women, who still practice rituals like rubbing brightly-hued red cow fat on themselves for both sun protection and as a beauty ritual; their hair styles are as elaborate as any you’d find in Detroit or Kingston; their dances reminiscent of ciphers on any dance floor this side of the world. (grootberg.com)

Doro Nawas, in the area of Namibia commonly referred to as Damaraland, is one of the most rugged and uninhabited areas on the African continent. On the way there, we passed a roadside table brimming with all sorts of geodes: hollow rocks with beautiful amethyst and other colorful gemstones inside. Unbelievably, you purchased these gems by honor system and so we left our money in a can and kept it moving. Doro Nawas is a camp with 16 chalets, each with a large bedroom and double bed. On warmer evenings, one has the option of wheeling your bed out of the room, to enjoy a night under the stars (I passed on that both because of the cold and because I’m not so keen on animals being anywhere near me while I sleep.) It was at Doro Nawas that we were able to track the rare desert-adapted elephants of Namibia, where we left at about 5 a.m. driving through cold mist to look for this rare species. We found them! And were able to observe from feet away dozens of these majestic, matrilineal creatures living life. (wilderness-safaris.com/camps/doro-nawas-camp)

Himba women.

Our last night was at Erongo Wilderness, which for lack of a better word, are the most fancy treehouses imaginable. The bathrooms are actually built into boulders blending into the landscape. The rooms are all linked by walkways meandering between the boulders, overlooked by the main lodge building perched above. Dinner is served in the partially open, thatched dining room with a central fireplace for cooler evenings, complete with magnificent views, well-stocked bar and good wine cellar. (erongowilderness-namibia.com)