Lennon Wall - Fall 2016

LENNON

WALL Fa l l ‘1 6

POPULIST UPRISING REACHES THE CZECH REPUBLIC WENCESLAS SQUARE RENOVATION WILL HELP REVITALIZE CITY CENTER

TRAVESTI SHOW STAR TELLS ABOUT LIFE AS A DRAG QUEEN

RETRO DRESS: BOHEMIAN RETRO SKIRT & HOODIE: MP COLLECTION 2017 MODEL: NELA TOMCZYK PHOTOGRAPHER: ANASTASIA MEZENINA Every care has been taken to trace copyright holders for images and text in this issue.

However, if we have ommitted anyone we apologize and will, if informed, make corrections.

FROM THE EDITOR We are lost. A lot of us felt betrayed, misled and disoriented many times this year: on June 23, when Britain voted to leave the European Union, on July 14, when 87 people were killed and hundreds wounded in the Nice terrorist attack, and on November 9, when despite all odds and predictions Donald Trump was elected as the 45th president of the United States.

We are entering an era of uncertainty. What does the future hold for us? In just a few years we, the millennial generation, will have to face this cruel yet beautiful world that’s been handed to us and we’ll have the chance to shape it. We are its hope and future.

That is why Lennon Wall Fall 2016 print issue is dedicated to future in its different manifestations: the future of Europe and its minorities, political and gender equality, architecture and cinematography, arts and music. We present a mixture of issues, often calling to the past for the plurality of perspectives.

The Lennon Wall team hopes that you will enjoy the issue we’ve put together for you, learning something new and becoming inspired.

Karina Verigina, Editor-in-Chief EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Karina Verigina ASSISTANT EDITOR | Elizaveta Khodarinova PRODUCTION DIRECTOR | Lindsay McGowan MANAGING EDITORS | Chau Nguyen, Svetlana Kirichenko PHOTO EDITOR | Anastasia Mezenina Social Media Editor Benjamin Goings Photographer Georgi Shillington

Copy Editors Olivia Fish Christy Freitag lennonwall.aauni.edu lennonwall@aauni.edu

Marketing Valentina Pšenickova Kseniya Sitnik Carolina Soldati

Julia Nowak Contributors Tom Donohue Elizabeth Hwang

@lennonwallmag

Anna Kindyakova Leila Mekhdiyeva

Faculty Advisor Frank Kuznik

Michelle Robins Arevik Zadoyan

SPOTLIGHT STUDENT LIFE ARTS FOCUS LIFESTYLE TRAVEL

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#CZECH POPULISM GAINS GROUND #IDENTITY PERPLEXITY #RENOVATING THE HEART OF PRAGUE

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#WHAT BRINGS US HERE?

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#PULLING STRINGS #SLAV EPIC FACES COURT #PRAGUE’S K-POP MONSTERS

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#AUSCHWITZ:NEVER AGAIN #MY AFGHANISTAN

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#THE SMART GIRLS’ STYLE GUIDE #THE QUEEN OF NIGHTLIFE

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#PRAGUE:A BOOK NERD’S PARADISE

CZECH POPULISM GAINS GROUND

STORY & PHOTOS: BENJAMIN GOINGS

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tunning the world, the election of Donald Trump as president of the United States has given right-wing populists in Europe a mandate for their ongoing effort to disintegrate the European Union.

Emboldened by the June 23 Brexit vote in the UK, and fueled by the refugee crisis and terror attacks, right-wing populist parties have exploded in Europe. In Slovakia, the March 2016 election saw the far-right, anti-Jewish and openly neo-fascist People’s Party – Our Slovakia gain seats in the Slovak Parliament for the first time. In France, the far-right National Front gained seats from the traditional socialist left, appealing to fear of immigrants and campaigning for French exit of the European Union.

This wave of populism has also reached the Czech Republic.

Czechs are rallying for “Czexit,” the Czech Republic’s exit from the European Union. Soon after the Brexit vote, Czech President Miloš Zeman called for a referendum. “I disagree with those who are for leaving the European Union,” 6 | Fall 2016

Zeman told Czech Radio, as reported by Reuters. “But I will do everything for them to have a referendum and be able to express themselves. And the same goes for a NATO exit too.”

Rallying support for a Czexit referendum, a demonstration was held on October 28, Czechoslovak Independence Day, on Wenceslas Square in Prague. Organized through a Czexit Facebook page, the rally attracted attention as organizers positioned a truck, a Christian cross and large portraits of famous Czechs under the statue of St. Wenceslas. A portrait of Tomáš Masaryk, the first President of Czechoslovakia, sat in the center as demonstrators crowded around, eager to hear the pronunciations of their leadership.

Many of the protesters knew each other well, having organized numerous protests in the past under the name Bloc Against Islam, a group that dissolved last May. Prearranged speakers climbed up to the makeshift podium in the back of the parked truck, and spoke passionately to the crowd of around 100 people.

Among their anti-Islam and anti-EU stances, the group

campaigns for stronger immigration control, particularly

portrayed the EU as infringing on the Czech people’s right

for Muslims. “We reject multicultural ideology, which is an

to self-determination. “The European Union is a system of

instrument of Islamization,” reads Dawn’s party platform.

dictatorship, and the same fascism as during the Second

“Islamization” of Europe is seen as a major policy failure of

World War,” one of the lead rally organizers said. “We don’t

the European Union, and is common rhetoric among right-

want to live in a Europe where one country – Germany or

wing Eurosceptics.

the USA – tells other countries what we can and cannot do.”

Realistically, the chance of a “Czexit” is low, but not

Jana Yngland Hrušková, a singer, actress, activist and

impossible. In a recent survey by Czech TV, Dawn’s

candidate for the 2018 Presidential elections, spoke at the

popularity rose 2.5 percent, the support projected for

event, leading the crowd to sing the Czech national anthem.

the 2017 parliamentary elections rising to 6.5 percent.

Hrušková excitedly made clear her animosity towards

This is still far from ANO’s 35 percent, ČSSD’s 15 percent

the European Union and her intention to lead the Czech

and ODS’s 8.5 percent. If trends continue, ANO and

Republic out.

ČSSD could continue their coalition to block Dawn from

“They only steal or destroy,” she said. “They give us some money for our roads and big factories like Škoda. But it’s only three or four factories. What are they doing for small villages? We will build our structures in small villages!”

Hrušková isn’t worried about economic damage to the Czech Republic after a leave vote. “Our people are eating from garbage! Factories are closed, people have no work.

After we leave the European Union we will be completely independent, and because we have capability, trade will be

gaining ground in the EU debate, and will likely prevent a referendum from reversing the status quo. Czech citizens passionate about exit from the European Union would have to siphon considerable support from the two major parties into votes for Dawn to carry a referendum.

Hrušková summed up their feelings when she said, “I want our factories where we sell our products, not globalization.

The Czech Republic was special, and it must be special again!”

good again. Glass, cars, we used to be number one!”

Presidential approval alone cannot lead the Czech Republic out of the European Union. If an overwhelming majority of the Czech people voted “leave” in a referendum, the decision would still require parliamentary ratification. This means the two largest parties, ČSSD (center-left) and ANO (centerright), would have to reverse their long-standing policies.

Prime Minister Bohuslav Sobotka’s spokesperson called EU membership a “guarantee of stability and security,” adding “the government is not considering taking any steps which would question in any way our membership and the longterm orientation of the Czech Republic’s foreign policy,” Reuters reported.

The only party in Czech Parliament openly calling for an exit referendum is Dawn – National Coalition (SPD), founded by Japanese-Czech Tomio Okamura. Dawn also

ANTI-MERKEL AND ANTI-NATO FEELINGS ARE ON THE RISE IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC Spotlight | 7

IDENTITY PERPLEXITY

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STORY & PHOTOS: CHAU NGUYEN

iding behind her big leather purse, Thu Vu, a Vietnamese student at Anglo-American University, starts to sob while recalling her early experiences in the Czech Republic. It’s been 14 years since she first set foot in this country, but the painful memories still haunt her like nightmares.

“I couldn’t get used to my new life in the Czech Republic,” Vu admits. “Meanwhile, my friends in Vietnam had already forgotten me. I didn’t know who I was, or where I belonged.”

Vu’s identity crisis is common and almost inevitable among the new generation of Vietnamese. Some, like Vu, came to the Czech Republic at an early age. Many others were born and raised here, the children of parents who came to Czechoslovakia on a labor exchange program that ran from 1967 to 1989. During this time, thousands of Vietnamese were put to work in factories, and many of them stayed.

After they were recognized by the Czech government as “adaptive, hard-working people,” other Vietnamese were drawn to the Czech Republic in search of a better future.

For many of their children, life has been a struggle. Vu was just six years old when she came here, and had to learn Czech on her own, in the process forgetting her mother tongue.

Nhi Phamová, a Vietnamese-Czech student also studying at AAU, faced a language barrier of a different sort. Unlike Vu, 20-year-old Phamová was born in the Czech Republic, but her parents were too busy with their business to take proper care of her. So they hired a Czech nanny. When Phamová’s parents finally visited their daughter, she was already a few years old and spoke only Czech.

“I did not know who my parents were,” Phamová says. “One day, they dropped by and introduced themselves to me. It was really strange. After they declared their ‘ownership’ over me, and took me home, they only spoke Vietnamese to me. Gradually, I forgot how to speak Czech.”

Some Vietnamese of the younger generation find it a 14-YEAR-OLD HUYEN TRAN STUDYING IN HER ROOM 8 | Fall 2016

challenge to communicate with their parents even in their native language.

“I consider Vietnamese my second language,” says Huyen Tran, a Vietnamese-Czech student born and raised in the Czech Republic, who now attends Masarykova school in Krupka. “When you speak Vietnamese, you have to mind the pronouns and etiquette. I often forget that. More likely, I don’t see the difference, so I don’t understand the importance. Sometimes it’s not what I said, but how I said it that offends and upsets people.”

Another problem facing young Vietnamese living in the Czech Republic is bullying and racism at school, making them wonder if their ethnicity and identity are the same thing.

TRAN AND HER PARENTS HAVING A TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE DINNER TOGETHER

Vu was often ridiculed by her classmates for her Asian appearance and accent. After the initial struggle with the language, she became fluent in Czech, and her academic performance spiked. But that only made her situation worse. Vu then realized she was the subject of envy.

“The girls provoked me to fight them after school,” she recalls. “They spread terrible rumors about me. The situation got out of hand, and the police arrived at school to question me. I didn’t want to go to school anymore.”

fear and humiliation to herself sometimes. It’s tough being Vietnamese in the Czech Republic. But our family’s income depends on my shop. Handling it drained all my energy.

I wish I had more time for her, but we all knew it was impossible.” (Nguyen has no relation to the author, or to the student Lam, quoted below) Family conversation was mostly simple and brief. This lack of communication is common between Vietnamese parents and their children, leading to misunderstandings that heighten the differences in thinking and lifestyles.

This becomes another wedge driving the two generations apart, making the children feel even further removed not just from their parents, but from their Vietnamese heritage and identity.

“IT’S TOUGH BEING VIETNAMESE IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC’’

Unfortunately, Vu wasn’t the only Vietnamese student to suffer from bullying. Phamová had her hair pulled and cut by her classmates. When she was 14, Tran had soda water poured on her head by a senior. Her mother, Hoa Nguyen, is 60 years old. She knew about this, but decided to do nothing.

“I know because I experienced the same thing as well,” says Nguyen, whose face is covered in wrinkles of worry and exhaustion. “I know Tran had to keep the loneliness,

“The only thing they ask about is my grades,” says Phamová.

“They try to understand the rules of school, but no matter how many times I tell them about it, they just don’t understand. That’s our weekly conversation, and it’s getting repetitive.”

Spotlight | 9

LIKE MANY YOUNG VIETNAMESE LIVING IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC, TRAN WONDERS TO WHICH CULTURE SHE TRULY BELONGS

“As a teenager, I saw how my friends were able to hang out much later than me,” says Lam Nguyen, a student in AAU’s School of Humanities. “When my parents gave me the reason that it’s culturally unacceptable for us to do the same thing, I couldn’t understand it at all.”

“My mom told me that’s not what Vietnamese girls do,” adds Nguyen. “I have no power of negotiation in my family.

When I snap at them, they come back and say that I’m too Westernized.”

Like most parents, Vietnamese parents want to be in control.

But they justify their strictness as means of preventing Western culture from corrupting their children.

“Spare the rod, spoil the child,” says Hoa Nguyen. “There are many cases when unattended Vietnamese teenagers start smoking, drinking, doing drugs, all these criminal activities just to fit in with their peers.”

Looking from the other side, Vu can sympathize with the “lost” teenagers. She understands why many Vietnamese feel isolated and scared during their teenage years, and will 10 | Fall 2016

try anything to feel a sense of belonging, even if it means adopting questionable habits and an artificial identity.

Language barriers, social discrimination and cultural clashes with their parents still hinder many young CzechVietnamese in their struggle to find their place in the world.

Left unanswered, the identity question may fade over time, or grow into trauma like that experienced by Vu, whose painful childhood memories still make her burst into tears.

For now, this much is certain: the identity crisis, though not universal, is common among the younger generation of Vietnamese in the Czech Republic. Hopefully, future Czech-born Vietnamese and incoming young Vietnamese will be able to adjust their perspective, and blend the two cultures with more confidence and success.

As Czech-Vietnamese Lam Nguyen says, “I’m a mix of Vietnamese and Czech cultures. You don’t have to be one.

Why can’t you combine multiple origins and be fine with it?”

BETWEEN TRAN AND HER MOTHER, HOA NGUYEN, EXISTS AN INEVITABLE INVISIBLE BARRIER OF AGE, LANGUAGE AND CULTURE

Spotlight | 11

RENOVATING THE HEART OF PRAGUE STORY: CAROLINA SOLDATI

12 | Fall 2016

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mong European cities, Prague’s landscape is unique with its Castle, Old Town Square, towers and one of the biggest squares in the world: Wenceslas Square. Early in the city’s history, Wenceslas Square was a horse market, but in more modern times it transformed into an epicenter for protests and revolutions, where hundreds gathered to launch and later celebrate the Velvet Revolution. Taking its name from Saint Wenceslas, Duke of Bohemia, it is the heart and soul of the city.

In recent years, however, the square has degenerated, losing its symbolic value and charm and instead becoming a place of sleazy nightlife, where elegant retail shops are being replaced by casinos and girlie bars. To preserve this cultural landmark, the city for years has been discussing solutions to clean up and improve the square.

In 2005, the city announced a competition to revitalize the square, won by Cigler and Marani Architects. In 2017, after the reconstruction of the MĹŻstek subway station and other improvements, the project will finally become a reality.

Photo by Raevenn Breen Spotlight | 13

“If you look at it, you won’t see such a massive change,” promises Jiří Brož, chief architect for GBA, one of the competing firms. “In fact, this project is rather simple, focused on the functionality for a more pedestrian city.”

The general trend of contemporary urbanism is to favor pedestrians and cycles instead of cars. In Cigler and Marani’s plan, Wenceslas Square sidewalks will be enlarged to 17 meters and an additional row of trees along with fountains and water jets will be added. The space will exclude architectural barriers in order to facilitate mobility for wheelchairs and strollers coupled with more specific guides for the blind at the square. Parking spaces will be reduced, and asphalt will be replaced with granite tiles along the entire square.

“The small details make this project appreciable,” continues Brož. “For example, granite can be found in the Czech WENCESLAS SQUARE IS REALLY A BOULEVARD, MEASURING 750M LONG BY 60M WIDE. IT WAS ORIGINALLY LAID OUT AS A HORSE MARKET 650 YEARS AGO. PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

Republic and will give the square a more ‘familiar’ look.”

There will be more space for events and markets, and, Brož promises, “we’ll get rid of the bad-looking kiosks selling ‘Wenceslas sausages.’ Instead, Cigler and Marani suggested mobile selling points in glass, more elegant and themed with the general project.”

What about the longitudinal cross-street that bisects the square? “Cigler and Marani had to present two versions of the project,” explains Brož. “One involved the use of the central space for public transport already crossing the square from Jindřišská and Vodičková streets. However, the city hasn’t made an official decision yet. It is more likely that we are going to see statues or art installations.”

Security is another major concern of the city for Wenceslas Square. Cigler and Marani’s plan does not change the conformation of the square, which remains open and easy to control in the event of a terrorist attack. “I don’t see this as a possibility, even if it’s true that the square held major

ON OCTOBER 28, 1918, THE CZECHOSLOVAK STATE INDEPENDENCE WAS DECLARED IN FRONT OF THE MYSLBEK´S ST. WENCESLAS MONUMENT IN THE WORDING OF A DEED READ BY ALOIS JIRÁSEK. PHOTO COURTESY OF FLICKR USER MARTIN SCHMIDT 14 | Fall 2016

events, and still does, being one of the main meeting points for demonstrations and protests,” says Brož. “One is never too cautious, but I’m more concerned about other current activities happening in the square.”

The revitalization of the square will cost an estimated 200 million CZK. So far, it has not run into any major problems and should be completed relatively quickly. However, this is only a partial solution for improving the city center. The reconstruction of the National Museum and State Opera at the top of the square, both currently underway, will also make a big difference. Although a prevailing concern is the highway that runs in front of both buildings, which divides the square into constant streams of traffic, pollution and noise.

“The most problematic part is not the square itself,” says Brož. “It’s the connection between Wenceslas Square and the National Museum which has been cut off by ‘Magistrála,’ the highway.” The National Museum renovation is expected to improve the connection to the square, and Brož would like to see further improvements that include neighboring buildings. “We can’t forget about the State Opera and the Central Train Station, beautiful historical buildings that could only benefit from a pedestrianization of the area.”

CIGLER AND MARANI’S VISUALIZED VIEW OF THE SQUARE, WHICH SHOWS A PEDESTRIANIZATION OF THE AREA, MAKING IT MORE HUMAN AND LESS MOTORIZED. THE RENOVATION SHOULD START IN 2017. PHOTO COURTESY OF CIGLER&MARANI ARCHITECTS

There are many ideas to solve the problem of the highway.

Some architects have suggested reducing the number of lanes from three to two; others have proposed enlarging the surrounding pavement and decreasing the number of architectural barriers. But the most ambitious plan calls for changing the highway into a tunnel. All would pose significant challenges, but Brož is optimistic.

“It is not impossible,” he says. “The general trend in this field calls for more livable and movable cities, where the measures are man-sized, not car-sized. I’ve recently been to a conference held by Jan Gehl, a famous Danish architect and urbanist who worked with many capital cities such as London, New York and Moscow, to help the ‘rehumanization’ of their urban centers. He has been hired

by Prague’s Institute for Planning and Development, so I’m curious about his vision for our beautiful city.”

ART INSTALLATIONS AND MORE ELEGANT SELLING POINTS ARE GOING TO REPLACE THE CURRENT CENTER OF THE SQUARE. PHOTO COURTESY OF CIGLER&MARANI ARCHITECTS

Spotlight | 15

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4 WHAT BRINGS US HERE?

STORY: CHAU NGUYEN | PHOTOS: ANASTASIA MEZENINA

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ook around you. You are sitting in a room with eight other people from all over the world. How blessed are we to exist in such a globalized era, with the opportunity to meet and get to know all these intriguing souls? Look around you. Eight journeys, all of which led to AAU. Of all the places we could be, why here? What brings us here? This moment. This classroom. Why us?

16 | Fall 2016

1. Maika Angela Antonio, Filipino, School of International Relations & Diplomacy

2. Robert Horvitz, American, Adjunct Lecturer, School of Humanities & Social Sciences “During the ‘80s I met a group

“I thought it was time to find out more about myself. I

of TV producers, who had the idea of using modern

wanted to move out of my family home and be on my own,

communication technology to bring global peace. When the

but not too far from my parents, who live in Austria. Prague,

situation in Eastern Europe started to unravel in ‘88, they

and the university itself, are also cheaper than Vienna or the

asked if I would join them to help rebuild broadcasting after

US. It’s an American system, too. I get to know people from

the revolutions. We came to Prague, and I fell in love with it.

all over the world here, which is a big thumbs-up for me.”

I never knew it was so beautiful. My suggestion to the group was that if you really want to help new broadcasters, you have to open an office in the region, and I’ll be happy to do it in Prague. In 1999, I started teaching at AAU. I thought the university was seriously involved in education from the very beginning and has a traditional ideal of liberal arts.”

3. Lindsay Jewel Salvati, American, School of International Relations & Diplomacy

4. Tamara Grabovac, Bosnian-Czech, Library Assistant “I was working for an embassy before. It was a very interesting job,

“An exchange program that brought me to the Czech

I met many fascinating people. It was a dynamic, moving

Republic two years ago sparked an interest in traveling and

place in which everything happened at once, and you had

exploring cultures, and I really wanted to come back to

to work 150 percent and be focused all day. But it was a

Europe for my university studies. I knew it would be a great

stressful, horrible environment, and I felt exhausted and

way to learn about myself, while developing independence

needed a change. Plus, I wanted to have a full-time job in

and just being on my own in a foreign country. When I

an English-speaking environment, because I was getting

was looking for opportunities to come back to Prague, I

headaches from ‘Czenglish’ already. A friend of mine

saw AAU’s IR major and it clicked that this seemed like

suggested AAU.”

something right up my alley after all the experiences I’ve had.”

Student Life | 17

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18 | Fall 2016

5. Thu Vu, Vietnamese, School of International Relations & Diplomacy

6. Gabriel McDonald, American, School of International Relations & Diplomacy

“No more Czech schools. They

“I really want to potentially move

frightened me. I was bullied a lot and I didn’t really belong

to Europe long-term, and eventually travel to the Middle

there. AAU is an international community, where students

East. This is the first step of that process. I knew I wanted

come from different places. They are foreigners, just like

an English-speaking college in a metropolis with a big

me. Thus, being Vietnamese here is totally normal. For the

young population. AAU is just super-central and great

first time, I was happy to go to school.”

for traveling. I also lived in Canada for two years, where I found God and my purpose, which is partially the reason I’m here.”

7. Mariana Gaitán Rojas, Colombian, School of Humanities & Social Sciences

8. Iveta Morávková, Czech, Student Life Specialist/Career Center Advisor “When I found out about AAU, I

“I’m a writer, but I don’t feel like you

was like: ‘Wow, there are going to be

need to necessarily study creative writing to be one. I feel

people from all around the world and the official language

that you need to learn more about different fields, so you

is English. This is where I want to work.’ I constantly hear

can apply that knowledge to what you do. Humanities &

different kinds of languages and meet folks from different

Social Sciences was perfect for me because you can take

cultures. When you hear their stories, it feels like traveling

classes in history, philosophy, psychology, everything in

around the world every day. I just enjoy working with young

the field of humanities. Plus, the classes are small, so you

people and it makes me happy if I can be helpful. Plus, as

can talk to your professors and classmates, and engage

a young student you want to have some unforgettable

in discussions. That’s awesome. Also, the international

memories, so that’s something that I hope I’ll help people

community at AAU is very interesting, especially when you

achieve as a Student Life Specialist. Last but not least, who

are in classes like history, because everyone has a different

gets the chance to work in a palace right below Prague

perspective depending on the country they are from.”

Castle?”

Student Life | 19

20 | Fall 2016

PULLING STRINGS

STORY: SVETLANA KIRICHENKO | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF FILM CREW

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he films open and end with puppets on the screen. Acting just like humans and encouraging viewers’ imagination and playful fantasies, they bring ordinary stories to life.

The film is based on Czech writer Bohumil Hrabal’s

This is the work of director Genevieve Anderson.

I really needed to make a short version first to figure

Her films do not feature actors; instead, she works exclusively with puppets. Their facial expressions and gestures, all shown in detail, add a little bit of magic to every story that Anderson tells. And they will be in the spotlight once again in her new feature film, “Too Loud a Solitude.”

1976 novel of the same name. Anderson already made a short (17-minute) film version in 2007, which she is now expanding to full feature length.

“We always wanted to make a feature,” she says. “But out what has to be changed for the feature version.”

“Too Loud a Solitude” is a special story for Anderson.

She received a copy of the book from a friend years ago and was amazed by Hrabal’s sensual language.

“He is able to express what it feels like to read a

Arts | 21

sentence in a book, the way that it feels in your body, and what a beautiful sentence can do to ignite your imagination, passion and soulfire,” she says. “It just made me feel like he was able to visualize the beauty of ideas themselves.”

Hrabal, we really felt it was Hrabal himself welcoming us.”

Anderson has done three previous films with puppets, which have won a number of awards. She came to her profession almost by accident. “I studied theater, I wasn’t in

Anderson also sees a natural connection between her work

film ever,” she says. Anderson became fascinated by puppets

and Hrabal’s. “It’s about memory, it’s about hallucination:

after a friend took her to see a performance of Japanese

all these different time periods join together in this man’s

bunraku (traditional puppet theater). This was just after she

mind, which is really difficult to do with live action,” she

returned from Mexico, where she had been studying theater

says. “Different layers of materiality and time are woven in

and had a terrible experience with a stalker, in which she

such a way that I don’t know how it could be done with

could have been killed.

people.”

“I thought I should do something with puppets to express

In preparing for the short version of the film, Anderson

what happened,” she says. “With the help of a friend I was

came to Prague in 2004 in search of inspiration. “I feel like

able to make a film about it called ‘Boxed.’”

in some ways the book was abstract to me until I went to Prague,” she says. “It was one of the most magical places I’ve ever been. And we were so embraced by the people in Prague who had some relationship to or appreciation of

The experience made Anderson realize that puppets can convey things that live actors cannot. In her opinion, they offer a unique and direct link to people’s emotions and

GENEVIEVE ANDERSON DIRECTING A SCENE FROM “TOO LOUD A SOLITUDE”

22 | Fall 2016

can draw dark or light energies, which is how she uses them. “They are mysterious,” she says. “They have a way of plugging into really primordial instincts that we have about our own being, about sensation, and about how we communicate.”

Anderson also has a practical side, as any successful filmmaker must. “You have to be the person saying, ‘I’m gonna make this movie’ and you have to prove to people why you need to do it, and you have to prove it over and over and over again,” she says. “Then you put together the money, and you do it, and hopefully you were right – hopefully it was worth it. But you never know. It’s a crazy profession.”

HANTA, THE MAIN CHARACTER OF “TOO LOUD A SOLITUDE”

Anderson is sure that the full-length version of “Too Loud

imagination. They also provide viewers with a blank slate.

a Solitude” is worth it. When the film is released in 2018,

“The puppet can be absolutely anything, so for me they have a lot of power in that way,” Anderson says. “Human

she will have the opportunity to convince the world that she was right.

actors are wonderful, but the puppets can communicate something that people can’t, and that’s what I’m interested in.”

On another level, Anderson perceives puppets as a sort of conduit for energies from a spiritual realm. To her, they are not just inanimate silicone objects, but magnets that

“TOO LOUD A SOLITUDE” IS A STORY OF A BOOK CRUSHER WHOSE JOB IS TO DESTROY THE PRECIOUS WORKS OF LITERATURE HE LOVES

Arts | 23

THE SLAV EPIC FACES COURT

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STORY & PHOTOS: BENJAMIN GOINGS

nside a dimly lit, vast exhibition hall in the Trade Fair Palace in Prague 7, the 20 towering canvases of the Slav Epic series capture visitors’ attention. Representing a monumental depiction of Slavic history, the Slav Epic (Slovanská epopej) inspires imagination of the complex and distant past of the Slavic people. The canvases dominate attention, drawing one into an artist’s constructed vision of the past. Viewed from afar, the paintings’ stories appear three-dimensional, the depth of the canvas made up by layers of historical interpretation and mythology.

The collection had been repeatedly clutched by controversies

The Slav Epic is the work of Alphonse Mucha, the Czech

descendants, but Czech courts.

artist whose beautifully intricate drawings and paintings captured the spirit and style of art nouveau in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Mucha continues to be a dominant presence in Prague: at the Municipal House, the Mucha Museum and in every souvenir shop lined with his various works. The crowning work of his career, the Slav Epic, is ensconced as one of the nation’s cultural treasures.

in recent years, ranging from transportation risks and proper display, to exhibition environment. Now, a scandal around the Slav Epic has once again erupted. The reason for it is the Prague City Council’s plan to transport the paintings to Asia: to be toured in Japan, China and South Korea, with no date set for its return. The decision is under heavy scrutiny by descendants of Mucha and conservators, who fear damage to an irreplaceable work. The family is determined to stop the City Council’s plans, launching a lawsuit against the city. At this moment, the fate of the work rests not just in the hands of curators or the artist’s

Southern Moravian born Mucha began his work on the Slav Epic in 1911, envisioning it as his masterwork, an eventual 18-year project, and a gift to the Slavic people as a representation of their heritage. Mucha agreed to donate the Slav Epic to the city of Prague on the condition that the works would be settled in a special, permanent exhibition hall.

ALPHONSE MUCHA SITTING WITH THE SLAV EPIC

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“THE SLAVS IN THEIR ORIGINAL HOMELAND”

“SLAVS FOR HUMANITY”

Mucha’s first piece of the Slav Epic, “The Slavs in Their

The Mucha Foundation, founded in 1992 by the artist’s

Original Homeland,” was completed in 1912, measuring as

family, was given the mission to preserve and conserve the

much as 610x810cm. Mucha’s intention with his premiere

collection and to promote the work of Alphonse Mucha to

work was to create an origin story: the Adam and Eve of

as broad an audience as possible, as reads the foreword to

the Slavs. He envisioned them in what appears as a state

“Alphonse Mucha: In Quest of Beauty,” a book published by

of nature, crouched into a defenseless position below the

the foundation. Today, the future of the exhibition remains

twilight of a starry night sky. Over the primitive landscape,

controversial among the artist’s descendants. John Mucha,

armies of a faceless enemy begin to crowd the helpless

the grandson of the artist, is president of the foundation.

farmers in the foreground, a sickle placed at their feet. A

“If he was alive, he would say that [The Slav Epic] is one

man resembling a pagan deity, armed with a sword, is placed

of the crowning achievements of his artistic life,” he says.

to the right, depicting the Slav’s commitment to peace, the

The painter was targeted and interrogated by the Nazis, and

kind of passivity that makes their freedom vulnerable and

died in 1939.

weak.

First displayed in the Trade Fair Palace in 1928, the Slav

The Slav Epic depicts a broad range of history, including

Epic was moved back there in 2010, previously part of the

the “Coronation of the Serbian Tsar Stefan Uroš,” “Master

permanent exhibition at a chateau in Moravský Krumlov.

Jan Hus Preaching at Bethlehem Chapel,” “After the Battle

The paintings were placed there in 1963 as a measure of

of Vitkov Hill” and “The Abolition of Serfdom in Russia.”

protection from the new regime, as the Communists were

His final masterwork “Slavs for Humanity” summarizes

not interested in following Mucha’s conditions. The artist’s

Mucha’s humanistic approach to history, Christ rendered at

grandson doesn’t feel the years the Slav Epic spent in

the helm, showering the painting in rainbows.

Moravský Krumlov were wasted. “The people [of Moravský Arts | 25

FROM THE LEFT: “JAN MILÍČ OF KROMĚŘÍŽ,” “MASTER JAN HUS PREACHING AT THE BETHLEHEM CHAPEL” AND “THE MEETING AT KŘÍŽKY”

Krumlov] basically saved it,” he says. However, he firmly

“I think certain segments of the people who are involved

believes that the final resting place for the Slav Epic should

with the Epic have realized – and this may be rather cynical

be Prague. “My grandfather gave [Prague] the Slav Epic

– that this actually represents a wonderful money making

under a specific condition, that it be exhibited in suitable

opportunity,” Mucha says.

surroundings approved by him or his descendants,” he says.

“He didn’t just give it to Prague. Through Prague, he gave it to the nation.”

Mucha started legal action against the city in April this year to prevent the paintings from leaving Prague, feeling the risk of damage is too great. The Czech section of the

Defying agreement with the artist and 1936 City Council

International Council of Museums supported him, writing

recommendation, the current City Council voted to send

a formal letter to the Czech minister of culture, advising

the Slav Epic on a tour in Asia, likely to produce considerable

against the transport of the Slav Epic. According to Mucha,

profit for the city. According to published reports, the first

even simply rolling and unrolling the canvases is dangerous.

three months of the tour will start at the National Art

“The association of restorers and conservators in the Czech

Center in Tokyo, Japan, from March 8 to June 5, 2017. The

Republic, completely out of their own initiative, … have

paintings are then to be shown at the Nanjing Museum

written a formal letter to the Ministry of Culture, saying on

in China, from July 14 to October 8, and will remain in

no account should the Epic be allowed to go out,” he says.

China until January 2018. From there the paintings may be

“Because if it does go out, at best it will be damaged, and at

exhibited in South Korea.

worst destroyed.”

26 | Fall 2016

Mucha intends on appealing his case if he loses. Ultimately, he thinks the case could finish at the Constitutional Court, the highest court in the Czech Republic. “In our archive, which will come out in court, we have his [Alphonse Mucha’s] words and thoughts,” Mucha says. “And he certainly did not intend, in any way, that the Epic be turned into some sort of exhibition circus. Which is what is now being proposed.”

What will ultimately happen to the Slav Epic is unknown.

Even those closest to it are uncertain, considering the potential destruction of the paintings during its pilgrimage through Asia. “A very large question mark,” says Mucha, with a solemn chuckle.

MUCHA’S ENORMOUS TRIPTYCH

“THE ABOLITION OF SERFDOM IN RUSSIA”

Arts | 27

PRAGUE’S K-POP MONSTERS

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STORY: ANNA KINDYAKOVA | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF MONSTER CREW

-pop is a cultural phenomenon that has taken the world by storm over the past decade. A music genre that originated in South Korea with flashy choreography and fun, upbeat melodies has now garnered millions of fans all over the world, and Prague is no exception.

More than 2,000 people follow the official “Czech Hallyu Wave” Facebook page.

The most significant event in Prague’s K-pop community

The encouraging looks and hugs that they give each other serve to show the close bond the members of Monster Crew share.

Monster Crew is also special in its mix of nationalities and cultures. With four of the members being from Vietnam and three from the Czech Republic, the girls serve as ambassadors and a symbol of K-pop’s ability to unite cultures and bring together people from all over the world.

is the annual K-pop contest, where aspiring dancers and

How did these girls find each other and become a

singers compete for a chance to fly to Korea and perform on

recognized name among all K-pop fans in Prague? The

a grand stage in front of thousands of people in the city of

origin of Monster Crew is perhaps as romantic as today’s

Changwon. The last K-pop contest, held on July 24, saw the

dating among the younger generation – they met through

group Monster Crew come out as victors with their dashing

Facebook. It began with a shared passion for Korean music

performance of “Catch Me If You Can” and “Fire” by K-pop

and dancing between two friends who decided they wanted

groups SNSD and BTS, respectively.

to participate in the K-pop contest. Through the social

“We were actually really surprised, because there were many amazing groups,” Hayley, the main vocalist, says of the group’s reaction to winning first place.

a short while later five more girls joined to form a group.

Their name too came about by accident, as many great

Consisting of seven members (Saba, Jana, Chi, Hayley, Niky, Yvon, An), the group first came together in August of 2015 to participate in the K-pop

media platform, they reached out to other K-pop fans, and

things do. “When we were thinking about what we should name our group, one of us suddenly said M.C.,” says Hayley.

“I was deeply thinking what could begin with those letters.

contest. The girls showed their hard work and determination by moving up from receiving a sympathy vote in 2015 to winning first place just a year later.

Despite their young age, with the oldest member being only 18, the girls have shown an ability to cooperate and work together as a team to achieve success.

When asked about the dynamic of the group, Hayley says, “Sometimes it’s kind of difficult to decide on something because we have seven members. But we always try to make a compromise, so we don’t argue much.”

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MONSTER CREW TAKING A BREAK FROM A FORMAL PHOTOSHOOT

MONSTER CREW AT THE 2016 K-POP CONTEST

I just thought of Monster Crew, so we decided to let it be.”

Seeing just one of their performances is enough to see the tremendous amount of effort and dedication the members put into their routines. Everything from the costumes to the polished, sharp movements and intricate details serves to show the determination they have for their craft. “The costumes were tailor-made,” explains Jana, referring to the eye-catching neon orange jumpsuits the members showed off at the contest finals this year. The members also put in an incredible amount of time for rehearsal for the competition.

“We were training three times a week, for two to three hours each time,” says Saba, the group leader.

In addition to preparing for the contest and despite being busy students, the girls stay active throughout the entire year performing at various K-pop parties, events and festivals, which helps them stay relevant and garner more fans and supporters.

Monster Crew’s favorite K-pop group, BTS, currently one

of the most popular boy groups in Korea, has always been a big motivator for the members. Hayley lets her inner fangirl out when she says, “Our ultimate goal is still to meet BTS. We want to be recognized by them [so we can] die happily.”

Achieving first place at the Prague competition certainly brought the girls closer to this aspiration, though not quite close enough. The Korean panel of judges did not choose Monster Crew as one of the 15 performers for the finals in Changwon. Still, the girls describe their victory as an experience “we won’t forget for the rest of our lives,” and are feeling very hopeful for the future.

Perhaps the most touching part about Monster Crew’s story is that at the end of the day, they are simply a group of friends working to achieve a shared dream. Out of their costumes and away from the practice room, the girls are just a group of teenagers going about their everyday lives. Yet what they have managed to achieve together in the past two years shows that nothing is impossible, and hard work and determination beat all odds.

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30 | Fall 2016

AUSCHWITZ: NEVER AGAIN

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STORY & PHOTOS: TOM DONOHUE

uschwitz Concentration Camp may be the most sombering place on Earth to visit. I have never felt more moved by a single experience. Evil radiates through the air and the blistering cold pierces my winter jacket making me feel as if I’m standing with the camp’s prisoners who worked and died here. Auschwitz remains a reminder to the world that no person’s life is worth more than another’s.

“Anger was the overpowering emotion felt at Auschwitz.

How could a group of people be so evil and live with their actions?” says Kyle Stewart, a study abroad student from Palo Alto, California. “The Holocaust serves as a constant reminder that we, the people, have to unite so that something of this magnitude will never happen again.

Every human is born to serve a purpose. Let’s ensure every human has the opportunity to live out that purpose by coming together as one human family.”

Auschwitz I, Birkenau and Auschwitz-Monowitz near the Polish city of Oświęcim form the single most effective Nazi extermination camp, where over 1.1 million people, mostly Jews, were murdered in the four and a half years of its operation. Prisoners were forced to do hard labor and sent to their deaths when they were deemed unfit to work any longer.

The sinister cruelty of the SS guards and meaningless

LEFT: THE MAIN RAILWAY INTO AUSCHWITZ II-BIRKENAU WITH THE MAIN CAMP GATES IN THE BACKGROUND. THIS RAILWAY RUNS ALL THE WAY TO THE MAIN GAS CHAMBER SITE, WHERE OVER 1 MILLION PEOPLE WERE KILLED BELOW: A LOOK AT THE LONG LINE OF GUARD TOWERS RUNNING ALONGSIDE THE PRISONERS’ AREA OF BIRKENAU

humiliation and psychological torture towards these prisoners is shocking enough for someone who’s only ever known the Holocaust through textbooks. Public hangings, tauntingly-joyful music and the most inhumane living conditions imaginable are just a few of the daily experiences the prisoners at Auschwitz underwent.

“It’s frightening to think about how people who endured and promoted something as horrific as Auschwitz are still alive today,” says Maggie McCabe, a CEA study abroad student from Chicago, Illinois. “The grounds almost feel untouched; it was a chilling visualization of what the lifestyles that people experienced there were like.”

The realization that human beings like us were stripped of their lives and murdered so quickly is frightening. People with their own hopes, dreams and goals suddenly saw them slip away. The visualizations that they had created in their heads of what their lives might be were blacked-out, and they had no way of getting them back.

FOCUS | 31

ABOVE: A VIEW OF THE ELECTRIC FENCES AND A GUARD TOWER TO KEEP PRISONERS LOCKED INSIDE AUSCHWITZ I BELOW: THE ENTIRE PERIMETER OF BOTH AUSCHWITZ I AND II ARE COMPLETELY COVERED BY MULTIPLE LAYERS OF ELECTRIFIED BARBWIRE FENCING

32 | Fall 2016

ABOVE: THE WALL INSIDE OF THE ORIGINAL AUSCHWITZ GAS CHAMBER, WHERE SO MANY PEOPLE MET THEIR UNTIMELY DEATHS LEFT: THE CHIMNEY IN AUSCHWITZ I OVER THE CAMP’S MAIN CREMATORIUM BELOW: ONE OF THE ORIGINAL TRAM CARS USED TO TAKE PRISONERS INTO BIRKENAU. TO THE RIGHT, YOU CAN SEE THE PLATFORM WHERE SOME PRISONERS WERE JUDGED BY DOCTORS TO SEE IF THEY WERE SUITABLE FOR WORK. OTHER PRISONERS UNLOADED THE TRAIN DIRECTLY OUTSIDE THE GAS CHAMBERS

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MY AFGHANISTAN

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STORY & PHOTOS: ELIZABETH HWANG

t is no surprise that the media has presented the world with a skewed image of Afghanistan, displaying only brokenness and pain. Indeed, the country has been experiencing war and strife for far too long.

However, Afghanistan continues to endure the hardships with unbelievable strength and resilience, and remains the land of stunning nature, captivating culture and the most incredible people. I am beyond blessed to have spent a part of my life in Afghanistan and am grateful for the relationships I've maintained with my Afghan friends. Here is Afghanistan through my eyes.

CHAMPIONS OF A GIRLS TAEKWONDO TOURNAMENT. HERAT, AFGHANISTAN (2014) ORPHAN GIRLS ENJOYING THEIR WEEKLY DANCE CLASS. KABUL, AFGHANISTAN (2012)

34 | Fall 2016

BIBI JAN. HERAT, AFGHANISTAN (2014)

FOCUS | 35

SULTAN HAMIDI. HERAT, AFGHANISTAN (2010) A YOUNG TEACHER AND HER STUDENTS. KABUL, AFGHANISTAN (2013)

36 | Fall 2016

A HARD DAY’S WORK. KABUL, AFGHANISTAN (2012)

A YOUNG MAN SELLING NAAN (BREAD). KABUL, AFGHANISTAN (2013) A TYPICAL AFTERNOON IN THE DISTRICT OF DASHTE BARCHI. KABUL, AFGHANISTAN (2013)

FOCUS | 37

THE SMART GIRLS’ STYLE GUIDE

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STORY: LEILA MEKHDIYEVA | PHOTOS: ANASTASIA MEZENINA

t is every girl’s dream to wake up in the morning knowing exactly what to wear that day. But sometimes one outfit a day is not enough. Whether studying, working, meeting friends or going out on Friday night after a long, hard week, a 21st century girl should know how to dress appropriately for all occasions. To help, Lennon Wall in collaboration with Attrattivo store has prepared a style guide to inspire our readers and show how to always look your best.

University When it comes to choosing an outfit for school, it is important to look stylish while feeling comfortable. What could be better than an oversized knit sweater combined with boyfriend jeans and boots? Add some accessories and you are ready to go!

MODEL: Laura Seifulla 38 | Fall 2016

Work Whether you have a dress code at work or not, we encourage you to always look as classy as possible.

Remember that your outfit represents you and tells the world about you, even before you speak. Neutral colors and one essential detail – here, a scarf – will make you look chic yet professional.

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Meeting Friends Going to see your friends after a hard, busy day at university or work? Then definitely feel free to mix different styles and fabrics. This is the perfect occasion to let go and be whoever you want, to experiment and play with your personal style. Here we decided to mix heels with skinny jeans and a fancy red poncho, because why not?

40 | Fall 2016

Theater This outfit is not exclusively for theater. It is also perfect for an exhibition of your favorite artist, a concert by your favorite band or any other cultural event. It is important to look elegant yet styled with some trends of this year, so you will not look too boring. This total black look mixed with a pink fluffy coat is exactly what you will need.

Lifestyle | 41

Date Night For date night you want to look as perfect and special as you can, and we understand that. However, let’s not forget that there is only one special person you want to impress that night. And when it comes to what guys think about girls’ closets, it turns out they prefer a look as minimalistic, feminine and cute as possible. So while creating a perfect outfit, do not forget to just be yourself, because your personality matters more than the clothes you are wearing.

42 | Fall 2016

Night Out They say, “A little party never killed nobody� and we certainly agree with that. It is important to study, work, go on dates and meet your friends. But it is also important to relax and have a great time once in awhile. That is why the outfit we created for a night out is so fierce and grungy. We simply want to encourage you to put your favorite dress on, add high heels and a trendy choker, and have some fun!

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THE QUEEN OF NIGHTLIFE STORY: AREVIK ZADOYAN | PHOTOS: SULLY SUNDKVIST

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t’s another Thursday evening at the Friend’s club in Prague 1. A beautiful woman in a dreamy blue dress appears from the wings, swinging across the stage, slow dancing with the audience and singing. A second more and the performer is walking through a cheering crowd, fondling and kissing some, and teasing and grinding on others.

The Crazy Goddess Travesti Show has begun, and drag queen Julia Landis is one of its stars.

Performing under the aforementioned pseudonym (his identity anonymous to the public), Landis embodies a vibrant part of the life of transvestites – drag shows: where exaggerated femininity and extravagant looks are incorporated into a form of entertainment.

The Crazy Goddess Travesti Show is about fun, shocking and grotesque beauty. The themes change weekly, as do the costumes. Landis uses different outfits for every performance and, as each show has a different theme, they never repeat. Varying from beautiful evening gowns to risque colorful dresses, these outfits are not for everyday use.

“Outside the stage I’m a man that lives a completely normal life,” says Landis with a hint of shyness, contrary to her onstage behavior. “For me this is work.” Such an attitude helps her to be more open during the shows, easily transforming into her “other” self, hidden behind the façade of makeup and costumes. Performing, Landis enters a new reality, where self-consciousness, hindrances and daily concerns don’t exist.

“A work of art is a scream of freedom,” Landis quotes Christo, a famous Bulgarian artist. For Landis, crossdressing is not about experiencing the life of the other gender, it is a chance to express herself artistically; travesti shows are simply a type of performing art, where Landis is comfortable to transform into a character opposite to her own self. “My art 44 | Fall 2016

allows me to run away,” she says. “I like my surreal reality.”

Reality is subjective in travesti shows. Performers sometimes use prosthetics as part of their costumes. Some outfits require a “bust,” Landis explains, while others “work fine with a flat chest.” She goes on to show her collection of fake breasts – chicken cutlets and blow-up boobs – and finishes with showing off her own chest: “This one is all natural.”

Usually, Landis tries to refrain from using realistic-looking breast-prosthetics, because the main point of the show is comedy, not provocation.

VLASTA WILD, CO-STAR OF JULIA LANDIS

JULIA LANDIS GIVES AN INCREDIBLE PERFORMANCE

“Just like in theater, I’m playing a role and it’s important to

came from these cabaret shows, which usually include

remain an actor, rather than a provocateur,” Landis says,

more than just a dress-up,” she says.

clarifying that there is no relation between her performance and transvestic fetishism. She tells that transvestites refuse to attend shows that trigger their sexual affections.

Landis tours in Slovakia, Poland and Germany, in addition to the regular performances in the Czech Republic.

Although the existing language barrier hinders her from

The audiences at Crazy Goddess Travesti Show varies greatly:

going international, she doesn’t give up. “I will do these

from couples of different genders and sexualities to small

shows as long as people enjoy them,” says Landis. “Only

groups of all generations. “We never have a shortage of

after that I will retire.”

visitors,” says Landis, “and people always come back.”

Luckily, the Czech Republic, one of the most liberal European

LANDIS’ CONNECTION WITH THE AUDIENCE MAKES HER A CROWD FAVORITE

countries, does not impose any difficulties to travesti shows, like the Crazy Goddess. “LGBTQ life is mostly concentrated in Prague,” Landis says. “Here there’s a higher demand for such drag shows.”

Landis’ interest in travesti shows began with joining a theater group, where she was given an opportunity to participate in various acts, including cabaret. “The inspiration to do drag Lifestyle | 45

PRAGUE: A BOOK NERD’S PARADISE

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STORY: MICHELLE ROBINS | PHOTOS: GEORGI SHILLINGTON

ook nerds rejoice – thanks to Europe’s rich intellectual history, dozens of places across the continent are marked with famous writers from the distant and more recent past: cafés frequented by authors, monuments to classical writers, and intimidating yet inviting multilingual bookstores. But if your carryon space is limited, bringing books home from your vacation might prove to be a problem (okay, maybe just one or two – who am I kidding?). Luckily, you can find places to enjoy your greatest passion without breaking your self-imposed book buying ban, running out of room in your suitcase or hurting your wallet.

In December 2014, Prague became one of 20 UNESCO Cities of Literature. Chosen for its “outstanding literary heritage” and “vibrant contemporary scene,” the city is home to literary festivals with a huge grassroots scene for arts and the world’s densest network of libraries. Sprawling with independent bookstores and publishers, it deserves its rank among Europe’s top literary locales.

This short list features iconic and hidden surprises to round out your travel to-do list.

Bookstores Dozens of bookstores in Prague attract visitors for their atmosphere, famous former frequenters, book selection or all of the above. Apologies for the tempting strain on your wallet, but these are too good to pass up: Globe Bookstore Café Globe Bookstore is Prague’s first English language bookstore and home to some quality American food. It hosts quiz nights, film screenings and karaoke, as well as special events like wine tastings and author readings. Come here for an American breakfast or macaroni and cheese if you’ve been long away from the States. Globe’s book selection is reasonable, offering mostly books about Prague, local authors and classical fiction. Make sure to scour the used bookshelves for good deals. Although the shop is not big, the selection is wide; the shelves seem to go on forever and the smell of ink and paper permeates the air. Come for a new book or just to feel at home.

Pštrossova 6, 110 00 Praha 1; Tram 10, 16, 22, Metro B: Karlovo Naměstí 10.00 – 00.00 Monday – Friday; 09.30 – 01.00 Saturday-Sunday. Kitchen open daily until 11 p.m.

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Palác Knih Neo Luxor Václavské nám. 820/41, 110 00 Praha 1; Tram 3, 9, 14, 24: Václavské náměstí, Metro A,B: Mustek 8.00 – 20.00 Monday – Friday; 9.00 – 19.00 Saturday; 10.00 – 19.00 Sunday This is the largest bookstore in the Czech Republic, and perhaps for that fact alone merits a spot on this list. Neo Luxor has become a chain store in this country, offering many new releases in the Czech language only. Their section of English books is small but mighty, and it’s a good place to buy guidebooks in English. If you’re willing to get your feet wet in the language, then have fun with your favorite book and a dictionary by your side. If not, they also offer cute notebooks, stationery and other bookish delights.

This elegant café with a billiard hall is over 100 years old,

Cafés

and it was a long-time haunt of Karel Čapek, Franz Kafka

Café culture is big here; throughout Prague’s history, they

of Prague’s café culture, “the Louvre” offers a traditional

have been the meeting places for important political and artistic figures. These are some of the best-known cafés: Café Louvre Národní 22, 110 00 Praha 1; Tram 6, 9, 18, 22, Metro B: Národní třída 8.00 – 23.30 Monday – Friday; 9.00 – 23.30 Saturday – Sunday

and Albert Einstein. Often called the crowning jewel Czech breakfast and great coffee. Since famous Czech icons often dine there, it’s best to make a reservation. All these things make Café Louvre a little pricey, but the Czech crown is kind to little wallets. Besides, it’s common for old cafés to have very nice interiors, making them seem much more expensive than they actually are, so never fear.

Because smoking isn’t prohibited here, the area does get a little hard to abide, so if that’s not your scene, make sure to request a smoke-free seat upon entry.

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Café Slavia Smetanovo nábř. 1012/2, 110 00 Praha 1; Tram 6, 9, 17, 18, 22: Národní divadlo 8.00 – 00.00 Monday – Friday; 9.00 – 00.00 Saturday – Sunday This café has an even longer history, dating to 1884 and popular with the dissident community during the Communist era.

Václav Havel, the first post-Communist president, and other important figures from the Czech history frequented it. Often considered Prague’s best known café, it has seen notable poets, writers and intellectuals meet and discuss ideas within its walls. See the city’s sights from the window and have a glass of wine as you listen to a professional pianist playing on the stage after 5 p.m.

Týnská Literary Café Týnská 6, 110 00 Praha 1; Tram 17, 18, Metro A: Staroměstská + walking 10.00 – 23.00 Monday – Friday; 12.00 – 23.00 Saturday - Sunday This café is a secret to most – the entrance is partially hidden among unremarkable doors along the street – and very nondescript in comparison to nearby landmarks. Doubling as a publishing house for local writers, it is popular among artists, students and aspiring authors. The inside snakes around different-looking hallways with many comfortable places to sit.Try the hard cider or browse the book selection to buy something or just for fun.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF FLICKR USER ALDO_MX

Sites Add these to your tourist trail, you’ve probably passed them on your way to more famous sites.

Clementinum Library – Baroque Library Hall Mariánské nám. 5, 110 00 Praha 1; Tram 17, 18, Metro A: Staroměstská; right off the Charles Bridge 10.00 – 16.30 Monday – Tuesday; 10.00 – 19.00 Wednesday – Friday; 10.00 – 18.00 Saturday – Sunday Guided tours: every 30 minutes/220 czk for adults, 140 czk for students This must be the most beautiful library in the world. There’s just no way around it. Unfortunately, to see it, you have to pay for a guided tour. Baroque Library Hall is part of a bigger complex, one of the largest in Europe, with university buildings and a public library, which are free to enter. Other parts of the tour include the astronomical tower, offering breathtaking views of the whole city, Meridian Hall, housing the unique device previously used to determine noon, and the Mirror Chapel if you’re lucky and there isn’t another event taking place there. But everyone’s really there to see the Baroque Library Hall, which goes through a dramatic unveiling as the doors open and the lights are turned on. Before you even see the books, the smell of old paper dominates the room. Take as many breaths as you can, because you can’t find this smell anywhere else. It’s really a hug.

People cry; probably because you can’t take pictures or touch any of the books.

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Kafka’s Head Charvátova 41/6, 110 00 Praha 1; Tram 6, 9, 18, 22, Metro B: Národní třída Kafka’s Head is a startling addition to Prague’s cityscape; you turn a corner and suddenly it’s there. Situated across from the City Hall and next to a building where Kafka used to work in an insurance company, this mirrored sculpture is supposedly meant to distract people from the frustrations of dealing with government employees. Its rotating sections also reflect upon Kafka’s tortured personality. The Head was built by the famous Czech artist David Černý, whose art and sculptures – including crawling babies, the Communist memorial on Újezd and St. Wenceslas riding a dead horse (weird, but cool) – are scattered around the city. It is divided into 42 sections along the width, all turning at different paces, so the full sculpture isn’t distinguishable as a head (let alone Kafka’s) until after a few minutes of puzzlement. But hey, it’s Kafka. And if you watch it for long enough, it’s actually super cool.

Books with a Prague Flair Here is a bonus list for those wanting a taste of Prague before going home. These books have either been written by notable Czech authors or residents, are old tales originating from the area, or take place in Prague. They all offer you glimpses into its literary culture, history and spirit.

The Unbearable Lightness of Being by Milan Kundera

The Golem by Gustav Meyrink

The Metamorphosis by Franz Kafka

Prague Tales by Jan Neruda

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SKIRT & HOODIE: MP COLLECTION 2017 FB & INSTAGRAM: @WEARMP MARTIN-PAVLIK.COM

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