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CELINE’S TRIOMPHE CHAIN SHOULDER BAG

JOURNAL MILAN’ FINEST is a pubblication by LE GRAND MAG MEDIA - CEO Bruno Facchetti - Chief Financial Officer Robert Willcox Business Development Tom Scott - Chief Technology Officier Stephen Smith - Chief Administrative Officer William Bright. - CRO Hugh Coyle - Chief Data Officer Ben Thompson - Branded Content & Entertainment Projects Senior Advisor Anna Vitiello - Contents Manager Valeria Borghi - Head Of Communication Ben Thompson - Art Director William Boulton Brand Manager: Gianfilippo Versari - Fashion & Trends Paola Valpreda - Quality Control Davide Metozzi Writers: James Cadoghan, Patrick White, Matt Smith, Tom Bolton, Rita Brooke, Maggie Langwaltz, Marta Marcucci, Lauren Touley, Marlene Schultz, Julie Mulberry, Peggy Sloane, Adam Towler - LE GRAND MAG is a registered trademark. All rights reserved. Le Grand Mag takes not responsibility for claims made in advertisements featured in this magazine. The Publisher and the Management Team cannot guarantee that prices of products and services mentioned in the articles and advertising pages of this magazine are correct. For information on prices, please contact the brands commercialising these product or services.

Rolex’s pursuit of innovation, reliability and precision

Celine’s Spring/Summer 2022 Baie Des Anges Collection spotlighted the “Portrait Of A Musician” series captured by the brand’s creative director Hedi Slimane.

Kaia Gerber re-established her relationship with fashion label Celine for its Summer 2022 campaign. Hedi Slimane, the brand’s artistic director, pictured the brunette model on location in the South of France in Nice. The shots were taken in October of last year and featured Kaia in designs from the spring collection while modeling for a series of predominantly black and white photographs. In one photograph, the American model was shown sporting a leather jacket, a striped mini dress, and the Triomphe Chain Shoulder Bag (shown in a short film), among other things. First appeared during the Autumn/Winter 2021 runway show in Monaco, the bag was featured in the Summer 2022 campaign in a smooth lambskin with interlocking C’s, both in black. (This page, bottom, Model Kaia Gerber poses with Celine Chain Shoulder Bag Cuir Triomphe. Photo: Hedi Slimane)

On the Submariner’s dial, the Chromalight hour markers and hands are filled or coated with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting blue glow – for up to two times longer than traditional phosphorescent materials. On the bezel, the triangular ‘zero’ marker of the graduation is visible in the dark thanks to an embedded capsule containing the same luminescent material. The unidirectional rotatable bezel is equipped with a 60-minute graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert that allows divers to monitor their time underwater. This patented insert is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. The high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The graduations and the numerals are moulded into the ceramic and coloured with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process.

STRONG VISUAL IDENTITY Like all Rolex watches, the Submariner and Submariner Date are covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. These certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The status is

Blue Hors From Denmark Founded in 1991 and with more than 30 years of experience in both the world of sport and breeding of dressage horses, Blue Hors contributes to the improvement of the global breeding of dressage horses with top-quality bloodlines from the best stallion and damlines in the game. The development of the worldwide breeding of sports horses is one of its most important tasks, serving 2,000 mares both at home in Denmark and abroad in

SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED

symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international 5-year guarantee. The precision of every movement – officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – is tested a second time by

Rolex after being cased, to ensure that it meets criteria that are far stricter than those of the official certification: −2/+2 seconds per day. The Superlative Chronometer certification testing simulates the conditions in which a watch is actually worn and more closely represents re-

Every Rolex watch has undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its laboratories following the brand’s criteria. al-life experience. The entirely automated series of tests also checks the waterproofness, the self-winding capacity and the power reserve of 100 per cent of Rolex watches. These tests systematically complement the qualification testing during development and production, in order to ensure the watches’ reliability, robustness, and resistance to magnetic fields and shocks.

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IN-HOUSE PERPETUAL CALIBRES 3230 AND 3235 MANUFACTURED by Rolex The Submariner is equipped with calibre 3230, while the Submariner Date is fitted with calibre 3235, self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Consummate demonstrations of technology, these movements carry a number of patents. They offer outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks, convenience and reliability. The oscillator of calibres 3230 and 3235 has a large balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also fitted on patented, high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, designed by Rolex. Calibres 3230 and 3235 have an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Parachrom hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibres’ regularity in any position. Both calibres incorporate the patented Chronergy escapement, made of nickel-phosphorus, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability and is also insensitive to magnetic fields. Calibres 3230 and 3235 are fitted with a self-winding module featuring a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. The power reserve of both movements is approximately 70 hours. The movement of the Submariner and that of the Submariner Date will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet they are beautifully finished and decorated in keeping with the brand’s uncompromising quality standards.

STALLIONS & CHAMPIONS BLUE HORS, TRAINING AND COMPETITION STABLE, PLAYS A MAJOR ROLE IN INTERNATIONAL DRESSAGE SPORT, TAKING PART IN TOP COMPETITIONS AND SELLING MANY TALENTED DRESSAGE HORSES TO RIDERS WORLDWIDE. all parts of the world every season. With the experienced team and high-quality offspring, Blue Hors offers sales horses educated, administrated and developed by the Blue Hors riders, grooms, giving buyers access to all relevant information around the horse’s wellbeing. When the breeders want to sell their offspring by Blue Hors stallions, a professional advertisement can be created in the database and on the website. Here, their offspring will be shown to potential buyers looking for their next top horse. Thus, Blue Hors is one of the world’s leading stallion stations today. Its horses, riders and offspring have won medals at national championships, European championships, World Cups and Olympic Games. Its stallions have made their mark in big finals and shows, and several offspring sired by Blue Hors stallions are to be found in the top of the FEI dressage rankings.

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THE ETERNAL TWINS The Karowe mine in Botswana has produced some of the most exceptional stones of the last century, and when it brought a 269-carat rough into the hands of Graff’s gemologists, it created the opportunity to turn it into something truly remarkable. It could have produced dozens of spectacular stones, but Graff saw the potential for two immaculate, identical 50 carat stones of astonishing colour and clarity: The Eternal Twins, a mirror-matching set of diamonds, each of an astonishing 50 carats. Obtaining two identical emerald cut diamonds from the same stone had never before been attempted on such a scale. Thus, Graff gem-cutters embarked on a complex and potentially risky operation: meticulously lasering the rough to extract a pair of perfectly proportioned Flawless gems. The long, smooth facets of the emerald cut leave no room for error, especially at this magnitude. Any flaws become more visible, and achieving the optimal play of light between the facets requires mathematical precision on the part of the cutters and polishers. The polishing team worked meticulously, alternating between the stones to ensure they were indistinguishable. When the twins were set into a magnificent pair of earrings, the historic feat was achieved, two D Flawless 50.23 carat diamonds of perfect symmetry, both alive with fire and radiance. The Karowe Mine has been in production since 2012 and is 100% owned by Lucara, a leading independent producer of large exceptional quality Type IIa diamonds. In summer 2022, Lucara moved towards the main shaft sinking phase at the underground expansion project of its Karowe mine, which will extend the operation’s life until 2040. Lucara estimates that shaft sinking will be completed in 2024, with ramp-up beginning in the first quarter of 2026. Full production from the underground mine is scheduled for the second half of that year. Karowe remains one of the highest-margin diamond mines in the world, producing an average of 300,000 carats each year, according to Lucara. Since the beginning of its operations, the Karowe mine has already become the only one in recorded history to have yielded two 1,000+ carat diamonds — the 1,758 carat Sewelô in 2019 and the 1,109 carat Lesedi La Rona in 2015, which sold for $53 million. Gemological Institute of America pioneered the grading of diamonds, including the development of the 4Cs of Diamond Quality. Diamond’s characteristic chemical composition and

crystal structure make it a unique member of the mineral kingdom. It is the only gem made of a single element: It is typically about 99.95 percent carbon. The other 0.05 percent can include one or more trace elements, which are atoms that are not part of the diamond’s essential chemistry. Some trace elements can influence its colour or crystal shape. The way a mineral forms helps determine its identity. Diamond forms under high temperature and pressure conditions that exist only within a specific depth range (about 100 miles) beneath the earth’s surface. Diamond’s crystal structure is isometric, which means the carbon atoms are bonded in essentially the same way in all directions. Another mineral, graphite, also contains only carbon, but its formation process and crystal structure are very different. The result is that graphite is so soft that you can write with it, while diamond is so hard that you can only scratch it with another diamond. Without any one of these factors, diamond might be just another mineral. Fortunately, though, this special combination of chemical composition, crystal structure, and formation process gives diamonds the qualities that make them extraordinary. GIA also outlines diamond history and lore. Diamonds have a long history as beauWhen the Karowe mine in Botswana brought a 269 carat rough into the hands of Graff’s gemologists, it created the possibility of something truly remarkable, a mirror- matching set of diamonds, each of an astonishing 50 carats.

tiful objects of desire. In the first century A.D., the Roman naturalist Pliny stated: “Diamond is the most valuable, not only of precious stones, but of all things in this world.” A diamond has to go through a lot before it reaches the jeweller’s display case. It forms deep in the earth under extreme heat and pressure. It is ejected violently upward until it arrives at or near the earth’s surface. It is forced from its hiding place by nature or by man. Then it is cleaved and cut and polished until its natural beauty shines through. The world’s love of diamonds had its start in India, where diamonds were gathered from the country’s rivers and streams. Some historians estimate that India was trading in diamonds as early as the fourth century B.C. The country’s resources yielded limited quantities

Photo © Graff Diamonds for an equally limited market. Gradually, though, this changed. Indian diamonds found their way, along with other exotic merchandise, to Western Europe in the caravans that travelled to Venice’s medieval markets. By the 1400s, diamonds were becoming fashionable accessories for Europe’s elite. In the early 1700s, as India’s diamond supplies began to decline, Brazil emerged as an important source. Diamonds were discovered in the pans of gold miners as they sifted through the gravels of local rivers. Once it reached its full potential, Brazil dominated the diamond market for more than 150 years. While sources changed, the diamond market experienced its own evolution. The old ruling classes— diamonds’ biggest consumers—were in decline by the late 1700s. Political uphea-

The Eternal Twins, two completely identical 50.23-carat gems cut from a 269-carat rough discovered in Botswana’s Karowe mine, have been set in a pair of earrings incorporating a total of 132.53 carats of exceptional diamonds. Graff ’s master craftsmen and design team have combined true artistry with luminosity of astronomical proportions in the creation of these beautiful jewels. The first jeweller to receive the Queen’s Award to Industry and Export in 1973, Graff is synonymous with the ‘all-diamond’ jewel, involved with every stage of a diamond’s life, from mining and cutting to designing and manufacturing.

vals like the French Revolution led to changes in the distribution of wealth. The 1800s brought increasing affluence to Western Europe and the United States. In the 1870s, annual production of rough diamond was well under a million carats. By the 1920s, the figure was around three million carats. Fifty years later, annual production approached 50 million carats, and in the 1990s it surpassed 100 million carats per year. Since the 20th century, diamond knowledge has grown steadily with research by chemists, physicists, geologists, mineralogists, and oceanographers. In the past 50 years alone, scientists have learned a lot about how diamonds form and how they are transported to the earth’s surface. That knowledge has made it easier to predict locations for new diamond discoveries.

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LISA, GLOBAL AMBASSADOR FOR CELINE www.celine.com Born as Pranpriya Manobal on March 27, 1997, in Buriram Province, Thailand, she later legally changed her name to Lalisa, meaning the one being praised, on the advice of a fortune teller in order to bring in prosperity. As an only child, she was raised by her Thai mother and Swiss stepfather. Lisa’s mother Chitthip Brüschweiler and her stepfather Marco Brüschweiler, a renowned chef, are active in Thailand. Lisa completed secondary education at Praphamontree School I and II. Having started dance classes at the age of four, she competed regularly in dance contests throughout her childhood, including in “To Be Number One”,and joined the 11-member dance crew We Zaa Cool alongside BamBam of Got7. In September 2009, the group entered the competition LG Entertainment Million Dream Sanan World broadcast on Channel 9 and won the “Special Team” Award. Lisa also participated in a singing contest as a school representative for “Top 3 Good Morals of Thailand”, hosted by the Moral Promotion Center in early 2009, where she finished as a runner-up. In 2010, 13-year-old Lisa auditioned to join South Korean record label YG Entertainment in Thailand. From a young age, Lisa was interested in K-pop idols, namely admiring artists Big Bang and 2NE1, and wished to someday follow a similar path. Among the 4,000 applicants, she was the only individual to qualify, which prompted then-CEO Yang Hyun-suk into offering Lisa a chance to become a YG Entertainment trainee. Lisa also impressed one of the judges, Danny Im of 1TYM, at the auditions, with him later praising her on-stage confidence and her off-stage attitude. In 2011, Lisa moved to South Korea to begin her formal training as a trainee, which lasted five years. She officially joined the label as their first non-Korean trainee on April 11, 2011. In November 2013, she appeared in Taeyang’s music video for the single “Ringa Linga” as a background dancer, alongside members of iKon and Winner. In March 2015, Lisa undertook her first modelling job for street-wear brand Nona9on, following South Korean cosmetics brand Moonshot in 2016. In January 2019, Lisa became the muse of Hedi Slimane, the artistic, creative and image director for Celine. In September 2020, she was announced as their global ambassador. She was featured in the brand’s Essentials

campaign in June 2020, shot by the creative director himself and has been widely photographed in Celine outfits and accessories. In a statement, the brand said, “We are pleased to announce the continued collaboration of Celine with Lisa, who will represent the house as Global Ambassador”. The same year, in November, Penshoppe revealed Lisa had joined the Penshoppe family as their newest ambassador. Furthermore, on July 24, 2020, Lisa was officially selected as the newest brand ambassador representing Bulgari. She participated in the digital campaigns for the “Serpenti” and “Bzero One” collections. On February 16, 2021, Lisa joined the guest jury for the French fashion award ANDAM. Through YG Entertainment, Lisa released a limited edition photobook entitled “0327” composed entirely with self-taken photographs through a film camera. The photobook was released on her birthday in 2020. The second volume was released the following year on March 27, 2021. On November 13, 2021, it was revealed that Lisa would be releasing her own collection with MAC Cosmetics, titled “MAC x L”. Her collection includes powder blushes, eyeliner, an eyeshadow palette, and a face powder. Lisa’s announcement as

Blackpink’s Lisa and V from BTS caused pandemonium as they attended the Celine spring 2023 men’s show in Paris.

MAC Cosmetics’ first female K-pop idol to be appointed as a Global Brand Ambassador generated $1.83M in MIV®, with MAC’s announcement post generating $506K in MIV® – representing their top branded post of 2020 and making them one of the top beauty collaborations of the year. Her announcement post on Instagram as a Global Ambassador for MAC Cosmetics received more than 5.6 million likes and 74,000 comments. Her partnerships have been noted to feel genuine as she frequently features the same brands across her social media channels. The success of her endorsements and partnerships has been partially attributed to this authenticity. In April 2019, she became the most followed K-pop idol on Instagram, with 17.4 million followers at the time. While Lisa landed her first solo magazine cover for Har-

per’s Bazaar Thailand’s May 2019 issue, MEI, a distributor of Harper’s Bazaar, reported that all 120,000 printed copies in stock were sold out. It was also reported that, on average, 30,000 copies are normally printed, and well-known celebrities have an average of 60,000 copies printed. So, despite selling 120,000 copies, the public’s demand was still not met. Following Lisa’s attendance at the Celine Men’s spring/sum-

LISA, READY FOR 2023

Lisa prepared for Celine’s spring/summer 2023 show at the Lutetia Hotel in the heart of Paris. Dressed head-totoe in black, she interpreted the show’s theme. Her outfit consisted of a black sequin halter neck, tailored shorts and heeled boots, paired with gold rings, bracelets and a skinny black belt. She went rock n’ roll with her makeup and hair, with blonde bangs and smokey eyes capturing Hedi Slimane’s combination of masculine and feminine stylistic notes, something Lisa herself loves about Celine.

mer 2020 fashion show in Paris, Lyst reported that global searches for Celine’s Triomphe bag leapt 66% on June 28, 2019, after she published an image of the style on her social media, in result garnering the attention of many among the general public. As of September 2022, she has amassed over 81 million followers, as she continues to set engagement and follower count records on the platform.

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1957 PORSCHE 356A 1600 SUPER ‘SUNROOF’ COUPE BY REUTTER 75 bhp, 1,582 cc horizontally-opposed OHV fourcylinder engine, four-speed manual transmission, torsion bar independent front suspension, swing axle independent rear suspension, and four-wheel hydraulic drum brakes. Wheelbase: 82.7 in.

RM Auctions’ sale of the Don Davis Collection in Fort Worth, Texas took place onsite at Mr. Davis’s estate. The single-day auction of the esteemed “collector’s collection” saw 64 prized automobiles sell for more than $21.2 million before a packed house. The quality of the collection was reflected in the strong global interest in the sale, with bidders hailing from 14 countries around the world. Top sale honours went to a rare, matching-numbers 1967 Ferrari 330 GTS. Representing the epitome of mid-1960s Italian GT styling, and in Blu Scuro, the example on offer attracted great interest from collectors, selling for $1,936,000, which set a new world record

for a Ferrari 330 GTS sold at auction. Taking the number two spot was another dream car, the 1973 Ferrari 365 GTB/4 Daytona Spider, which garnered a remarkable $1,650,000. In total, five lots achieved individual million-dollar-plus results, while spirited bidding saw a number of automobiles well-exceed pre-sale estimates to set no less than eight new world records. This 356A T1 Reutter Coupe, built on May 3, 1957, sat untouched in a Southern California garage from the 1980s until its recent restoration. A transition T1/T2 chassis, it is one built in a three month period, from March to May 1957. These transition cars had some T2

Porsche and Reutter

After the Second World War, Reutter entered into a partnership with Porsche for the production of the Porsche 356 sports car bodies. From 1950 to 1963, Reutter built coupe and convertible bodies for more than 60,000 vehicles of the legendary sports car. Reutter repeatedly built prototypes and models for Porsche based on the 356.

The Don Davis Collection

As a lifelong expert automotive enthusiast, it is no surprise that Don Davis assembled the outstanding collection of classic cars of the 2013 RM Sotheby’s auction, when this 1957 Porsche 356A 1600 Super ‘Sunroof ’ Coupe by Reutter was sold for $ 176,000 in Fort Worth, TX. Davis started collected cars in the late 1970s, and truly began building his dynamic collection in the early 1980s.

characteristics. This car retains the T1 high door striker but with the T2 teardrop taillights. These unique production characteristics, along with its rare colour combination, sunroof, and 1600S, make it extremely rare, perhaps unique. A matching-numbers car, with factory stamps on the hood hinge, engine cover, driver and passenger doors, sunroof panel, and transmission, it received a bare-metal, concours-quality restoration at Paras Autos, the Westminster, California, shop of 356 expert and concours judge Louis Paras. Paras rebuilt the engine, while the transmission was done by Jacques Le Friant. The concours-quality chrome

is the work of craftsman Victor Miles. Painted in the original silver metallic, it has a green leather interior, in place of the original green leatherette. In addition to the sunroof, it is equipped as originally delivered, with a Blaupunkt Bremen dual-band radio, Lemmerz chrome ventilated wheels, side spears, and an electric antenna. It also has the rare and desirable 80-liter Carrera fuel tank. The restoration was completed in 2011. No detail was overlooked in the restoration. Driven test miles only since completion, it is in exceptional condition. It comes with a Porsche Certificate of Authenticity and photographs documenting the restoration.

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HARADS TREEHOTEL The Seventh Room pictured here was built by Norwegian architecture firm Snöhetta in 2016, accommodating five people. This is the newest addition to Treehotel, is also the largest and most luxurious, where the shower and running water that constantly recycles and cleans itself.

HARADS TREEHOTEL www.treehotel.se

Swedish Lapland locals Kent Lindvall and Britta Jonsson-Lindvall wanted to stay close to their roots and create a livelihood in their home village. “We live here, we love our village, we wanted to earn a living and we looked at what

we could do with what we have here.” Kent had built a company providing international fishing trips. Britta had worked with a number of development projects, local, regional and international. One of them led to their restora-

Design First Swedish architects Bertil Harström, Thomas Sandell and Mårten Cyrén’s collaboration was key for the Treehotel project.

tion and transformation of an old retirement home into a guesthouse in their home village, Britta’s Pensionat. One day, filmmaker Jonas Selberg Augustsén came to the guesthouse to work on “The Tree Lover” film. When the movie was completed, Britta and Jonas made the treehouse an integral part of what the guesthouse had to offer and it instantly became popular. They thoughts, “What if design and tree rooms could be combined?” Kent mentioned the idea of designer hotel rooms to his fishing friends who happened to be Sweden’s foremost architects - Bertil Harström, Thomas Sandell and Mårten Cyrén. Their collaboration turned out to be very important for the Treehotel. Besides the Seventh Room pictured here, other structures include the Microcube, characterized by the mirror-windows that reflect the surrounding nature and camouflages the treehouse. It is an ideal getaway in the forest, with a rooftop terrace where you have views over the pine trees and surrounding landscape, great for an adventurous couple who wants to get a unique experience. Inside, there is plenty of space to relax as well as a double bed with a large window. All walls on the outside are covered by mirror glass and, on the inside, the walls are light plywood. There is also a tree trunk that

grows through the middle of the room, which is a cool aspect of the Mirrorcube. It was constructed in 2010 and the architects behind Mirrorcube are Tham & Videgård, Bolle Tham & Martin Videgård. Dragonfly, with futuristic designs and large windows from the bedrooms, was designed by the Finnish architect firm Rintala Eggertsson. It’s the second largest room at Treehotel with 52 square metres in total and two bedrooms, one master bedroom with a double bed, and one bedroom with twin beds. From the master bedroom, you can wake up to the most beautiful view, especially when the light shines through the window and the trees outside. From every area in the Dragonfly, you will have windows where you can enjoy a nice and calm view of tall pines. The Dragonfly can also be used as a conference room, although it is mostly rented out for private purposes. It features a big seating area with a nice window view as well as a foldable TV, which is attached to the ceiling. The Bird’s Nest was built in 2014 and designed by Bertil Harström. It fits four people and blends in with the surrounding nature with an unusual design that resembles a giant bird’s nest. It is accessed via a ladder and hatch in the floor. And although it’s a relatively compact room, there is one double bed and two single beds, which

makes it a great choice for families. The Cabin is the most classic at Treehotel in Harads. It was designed by Mårten and Gustav Cyrén in built in 2010, one of the most popular choices among couples, and it is easy to understand since it is situated amongst the tree tops with a wonderful view of the Lule River valley. In addition to a double bed and a spacious room of 24 square metres, The Cabin also features a balcony with seating. The entrance is pretty cool too, with a long bridge leading you up to a door that is situated in the middle of the trees. The UFO is one of the most famous treehouses at Treehotel, and it is a longtime favourite among guests. The UFO has room for up to five people with three single beds and one double bed. It’s a popular choice for families, but its alien-like design attracts visitors of all ages, from kids to seniors. This treehouse has the same architect as Bird’s Nest, namely Bertil Harström. Inside, one will find a space-inspired interior with a starry sky in the ceiling. The UFO is accessible via an electric ladder that is collapsible. The Blue Cone is actually not blue at all, but instead, it is a red wooden construction built around simplicity. There is a double bed and a large window with a view of the surrounding trees and nature. The architect behind this treehouse is Thomas Sandell.

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BORNAGAIN HAUTE COUTURE www.schiaparelli.com For Schiaparelli’s fall/winter 2022 haute couture collection, Daniel Roseberry writes, “All of us who work in fashion know that much of the rest of the world thinks that what we do is silly. It’s a boring criticism, and we all argue otherwise, but if you think about it, fashion is silly at times. It’s also provocative, upending, challenging, and meaningful. It’s breathtaking. It’s beautiful. In recent years, though, it’s felt like fashion has tried its hardest to prove it actually isn’t silly. The pressure designers feel to make a statement about the current political situation, our ongoing climatic disaster, the inequalities among people of different races and genders, and an age of war has in fact led to some extraordinary work, not to mention a reengagement of our industry with the broader culture. But it’s also led to a sometimes dreary self-seriousness, one that foregrounds fashion with sloganeering. It’s easy to be self-serious. The more difficult path is remaining an engaged member of society while also, in one’s work, daring to return to a kind of creative innocence, to the state of wonder and awe we all felt when we saw our first transcendent show. I always talk about trying to achieve that state of creative innocence, of fighting to stay close to that person who fell in love with fashion and its possibilities, of not succumbing to cynicism or world-weariness. I hope that spirit comes through in this collection: I hope people who see it can tell what fun the team and I had making it. I hope the joy we felt, of creating things, of getting to make beautiful objects that people will always remember, is evident in every coat, dress, and accessory. I think we sometimes get defensive when our critics accuse us of just wanting to make beautiful things. But what’s wrong with wanting to make beautiful things? It’s not the only important part of life, of course, but it is a part of life. And to make truly beautiful things isn’t actually that easy. But it is a privilege — and I’m grateful for it every day.” From 2022 to 2026, the House of Schiaparelli is thrilled to reveal “Shocking! The surreal world of Elsa Schiaparelli”, a defining art and fashion retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Conceived and realised as an exploration that bridges past and present, the exhibition presents the golden years of a visionary female designer within the larger context of her inspiring relationships to leading artists of the time, while also highlighting how the Maison upholds and embodies her legacy today. The opening and reception, held on July 4, 2022, coin-

cided with the fall/winter 2022 Haute Couture runway show from Schiaparelli artistic director, Daniel Roseberry, whose creations are showcased among over 520 works on display. This marks the museum’s first exhibition dedicated to the Italian couturière since the reopening of the House of Schiaparelli, which had closed in 1954. In 2006, Diego Della Valle, the founder of Tod’s, purchased the Maison, restoring it to the original Paris address at 21 Place Vendôme seven years later. While discussions for “Shocking! The surreal world of Elsa Schiaparelli” began before Roseberry’s arrival in 2019, his exceptional reimagining of Schiaparelli’s artistry and innovation have added momentum and further interest to her unique story. “The exhibition is based on the intention to discover Elsa Schiaparelli – a woman of today who lived in another era – through her rapport with the art and artists at the heart of the retrospective. But it also speaks to the brilliant influence that her work and her heritage had on several generations of couturiers and designers. We have given this cultural dimension to our project as a means of transmission – a desire to share both knowledge and emotion,” says Dephine Bellini, CEO of Schiaparelli. Within the Christine & Stephen A. Schwarzman fashion galleries, the universe of

Elsa Schiaparelli instilled a creative spirit in 20th-century fashion with her inventive imagination and revolutionary vision on sportswear, Haute Couture, art, fragrance, and ordinary elements. Elsa Schiaparelli is enriched with a striking cultural focus that includes artworks, photographs, illustrations, jewellery, objets d’art and furniture that support her expansive and bold ideas about fashion between the 1920s and 1940s. At the exact moment she was redefining the modern woman’s wardrobe, she drew inspiration from a constellation of avant-garde talents and friends. From her association with the Surrealists – including Man Ray, Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dalí and Meret Oppenheim – to her collaborations with Alberto Giacometti and Jean Schlumberger, the exhibition celebrates the people and movements that influenced her avant-garde style. The exhibition also spotlights iconic designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Azzedine Alaïa, John Galliano and Christian Lacroix who have paid tribute to her through their own creations. Amidst enchanting

scenography by Nathalie Crinière, visitors will discover Schiaparelli’s wildly successful fragrances and step into reconstructions of her couture salons from 1935. The final rooms are dedicated to Roseberry’s evolution of the Maison’s heritage, which echoes across the collections. Interpretations of the emblematic codes – the padlock, the measuring tape, the Shocking pink, the surreal jewellery – are proposed as daring and desirable contemporary designs that invite women to reveal their personality or become the person they wish to be. Having dressed Lady Gaga in custom Schiaparelli for President Joe Biden’s inauguration ceremony; Beyoncé for the 63rd Grammy Awards ceremony; and Bella Hadid for the Cannes Film Festival, Roseberry has established a new generation of muses who not only shape the culture but the conversation around it.

In 2014, the first haute couture runway show was held since 1954, at Paris Fashion Week. In 2017, Schiaparelli is awarded the official Haute Couture label by the French Ministry of Industry and the French Couture Federation. The Schiaparelli signature appears in none other than Shocking Pink. In 2019, Maison Schiaparelli announces the appointment of Daniel Roseberry as artistic director for all collections, projects and for the image of the house. The 33-year-old Texan had spent more than 10 years alongside Thom Browne at the head of its men’s and women’s collections. In 2021, Lady Gaga wears Schiaparelli Haute Couture to sing the national anthem at the inauguration of President-Elect Joe Biden. On her chest is a gilded brass dove holding an olive branch as a symbol of harmony and peace.

In this way, his work emerges as a metamorphosis of their visions coming together – in the exhibition and beyond – to write the future of a Maison that was incomparably shocking for its time. Roseberry once said, “Schiaparelli was a master of the modern; her work reflected the chaos and hope of the turbulent era in which she lived. Today, we find ourselves asking similarly big, identity-shaping questions of our own: What does art look like? What is identity? How do we dress for the end of the world? Schiaparelli answered these questions with candor and humor, but one of her greatest legacies may be her commitment to fantasy, her understanding that we need fantasy in complicated times. I want to offer my own answers to these questions, and offer a fantasy—a dream—that feels relevant, and necessary, for today.”

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The prestige of Brera attracts companies large and small, which support teaching projects. The Accademia di Brera is a source of inspiration for many famous names in culture who have worked unstintingly with students, providing a hands-on approach through workshops, keynote addresses, and seminars.

THE COUNTLESS ARTISTS HAVE PASSED THROUGH BRERA OVER THE CENTURIES. LINKING ACCADEMIA THE FINE DI BRERA ARTS AND

TEACHING

Some may be born “artists”, but many have become artists at Brera. Palazzao Brera houses several institutions. Accademia di Brera, one of the oldest such schools in Italy, is a living emblem of the history and the artists that have forged Italian art, making their mark on Italy’s history and contributing to interaction between science, literature and the arts since 1776. The school continues today to play a leading role in the world of cultural creativity with unflagging enthusiasm. Istituto Lombardo Accademia di Scienze e Lettere, founded by Napoleon in 1797, modelling it on the Institut de France, for the purpose of collecting and cataloguing discoveries and of perfecting the arts and sciences. The Orto Botanico di Brera or Brera Botanical Garden, created under Empress Maria Theresa of Austria in 1774, offers visitors a small haven of peace in the heart of the bustling city. It hosts two of the oldest examples of the ginko biloba tree in Europe, a 40-metre lime tree and a Caucasian walnut tree. The Museo Astronomico, or Astronomical Museum, is located here, with a collection of old scientific instruments belonging to the Osservatorio Astronomico. The palazzo is also home to one of the oldest associations in Milan the Amici di Brera, or Friends of Brera, which promotes the conservation and enhancement of the historic Palazzo di Brera. The Accademia di Brera was founded in 1776 by the empress Maria Theresa of Austria, during the Age of Enlightenment that saw the interweaving of the sciences, literature and the arts as the foundation for the humanistic culture of the modern age. It stood out right from its very unique conception in Palazzo di Brera sharing the building with the Gymnasium, the Scuole Palatine for law and philosophy, the astronomical observatory, the laboratories of physics and chemistry, the botanical gardens, the Teresiana Library, the Academy of Sciences, and the Picture Ga-

A look at Empire clock “Nymphe à la Coquille” The 8-day movement with a wire suspension pendulum strikes the hour and half hour on a bell. The clock is in excellent and perfect working condition, and has recently been serviced by a professional clock maker. 51 cm high, 52 cm wide, 16 cm deep, weighing 17.1 kg, the clock comes complete with its pendulum, key and bell. This spectacular and large gilt bronze Empire clock “Nymphe à la Coquille”, attributed to Claude Galle, has a bastion-shaped case which holds the movement of this clock. On

During the Romantic Age, the historical painting triumphed thanks to Francesco Hayez, the landscape school by Giuseppe Bisi was set up, and the teaching post of aesthetics was transformed into the history of art.. Today, the prestige of Brera attracts many private sponsors who fund events, projects, and scholarships. Among these, the following have given their generous support: Baccarat, Bosch, Bulthaup, Cimbali and others.

“Accademia aperta” llery that formed the nucleus of what is today the Pinacoteca. The Accademia owes its initial strong momentum to Giuseppe Bossi, its administrator between 1802 and 1807, who rekindled links with the rest of Europe, also thanks to the nomination of top of this case we see a scene of a young woman sitting on a meadow full with flowers. She is holding a shell in her right hand which she is using to take water from a small pond. This scene is clearly inspired by the marble sculpture “Nymphe à la Coquille”. This sculpture, which was previously owned by Camille Borghèse, is currently in the collection of the Louvre Museum in Paris. The movement of this clock has a white enameled dial with black enameled Roman numerals. Beside it are figurative plaques of Tritons blowing their horns. And to the side of the clock case we see two dolphins. The base of this Empire clock “Nymphe á la Coquille” has a beautifully chiseled bas-relief showing us a classic processional scene with Amor on his chariot, and groups of women.

HIGH-CALIBER STUDENTS MEET RENOWNED ARTISTS honorary partners such as David, Canova, Thorvaldsen and many others. It was Bossi who introduced the annual exhibitions from 1805 that

were to become the biggest contemporary art event in Italy during the 19th century. Countless artists have passed through the Accademia

Open Academy presents its 10 artistic faculties in the summer months. doors over time. During the Romantic Age, the historical painting triumphed thanks to Francesco Hayez, the landscape school by Giuseppe Bisi was set up, and the teaching post of aesthetics was transformed into the history of art. In the second half of the 19th

century, with the emergence of photography and the growing rebellion of young artists towards the conservatism of teaching, (Medardo Rosso was just one of the famously “expelled”), academic life merged and clashed with an artistic world in ferment as it transformed, from the Scapigliati to the Futurists. During the Avant-garde period, painting lessons were given by Cesare Tallone, who was Carrà and Funi’s maestro. In 1923, with the school reform by Giovanni Gentile, the Artistic Lyceum was set up next to the Accademia and in the same years, the school of sculpture was run by Adolfo Wildt, who was then succeeded by Francesco Messina and Marino Marini, the latter’s students including Lucio Fontana and Fausto Melotti. The need to respond to changing cultural conditions (advertising was already being taught at the School of Craftsmen before the Second World War) became increasingly evident after the war when the Accademia reopened its courses under the direction of Aldo Carpi. In the sixties, this was an area in the city where great artistic debate took place, with lively discussion among artists at the nearby Giamaica café. Today, the Accademia di Brera is renowned worldwide, still today chosen by those wanting to follow a career in art. So many famous names have passed through Brera, some as students, others as teachers. Adolfo Wildt, Arturo Martini, Lucio Fontana, Fausto Melotti, Luciano Fabro, and Alberto Garutti are just some of the artists who testify to the close relationship between art and teaching. Liliana Moro, Mario Airò, Gianni Caravaggio, Bernhard Rüdigher, and Marcello Maloberti all studied under Luciano Fabro. And Alberto Garutti taught Vanessa Beecroft, Lara Favaretto, Giuseppe Gabellone, Paola Pivi, Patrick Tuttofuoco, Roberto Cuoghi, and Petrit Halilaj, the last two also showing at the Venice Biennale in 2017. Some may be born “artists”, but many have become artists at Brera.

A SCENE FROM OVID’S “METAMORPHOSES” THIS EMPIRE CLOCK, CIRCA 1810, HAS GILT BRONZE ORNAMENTATION, AND THE SCULPTURE OF THE WOMAN HAS CLEARLY BEEN SCULPTED AND CHISELED BY A GREAT MASTER, LIKE CLAUDE GALLE. The “Nymphe À La Coquille”, who some sources refer to as Venus, can be Latona, a daughter of Titans in Greco-Roman mythology. Zeus conceived her with the divine twins Artemis and Apollo. Hera, Zeus’ jealous wife, wanted to prevent Latona’s delivery. Even after Latona’s delivery she was thwarted, as by the Lycian farmers who did not want Latona to stay and scoop water from a shallow pool with a conch to quench her thirst, as told in the “Metamorphoses” by Roman poet Ovid. The clock is powered by 8-day movement with a wire suspension pendulum that strikes the hour and half hour on a bell. 51 cm high, 52 cm wide, 16 cm deep, weighing 17.1 kg, the clock has recently been serviced by a professional clock maker, and comes complete with its pendulum, key and bell.

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A lot happened in 1897: Queen Victoria celebrated her diamond jubilee; the Blackwall Tunnel opened; and the novel Dracula was published. It was also when Harrods Estates opened. Since then, we’ve assisted the residents of Knightsbridge and surrounding areas with luxury properties – always providing the highest level of service. Here’s to the next 125 years.

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The CHI Royal Windsor Horse Show returned to the private grounds of Windsor Castle in Berkshire, England, from 12 to 15 May, 2022, for four days of elite equestrian competition. The event included the Platinum Jubilee Celebration with 90 minutes of arena theatre featuring more than 500 horses and 1,000 performers. The 5-day CHI Royal Windsor Horse Show takes place in May on the private grounds of Windsor castle. Some 55,000 spectators will watch the action unfold, an opportunity available just once a year, when the gates open to the public for this uniquely majestic event. Royal Windsor attracts the world’s leading equestrian riders and remains the only show in the United Kingdom to host international competitions in show jumping, dressage, driving and endurance. First staged in 1943, Royal Windsor’s enduring commitment to tradition and excellence reflects Rolex’s own defining values. The brand has been an Official Partner of the show since 2016 as part of its relationship with the sport that dates back to 1957 when pioneering British show jumper Pat Smythe became the brand’s first equestrian Testimonee. In the ensuing 65 years, Rolex has forged lasting bonds with key individuals and organizations

who set the highest standards of performance, helping to foster the excellence and elegance inherent in equestrianism. German rider Daniel Deusser, ranked World No. 10, took his place among a distinguished field that included fellow Rolex Testimonee Steve Guerdat, winner in 2018 and placed second in 2021. Martin Fuchs, who finished third behind Guerdat last year, will look to continue the rich vein of form that has elevated him to the World No. 2 ranking. The Swiss pair travelled to England with a fresh sense of the skill, accuracy and athleticism required to win a Rolex Grand Prix, having both won Majors in 2021; Guerdat at the Spruce Meadows ‘Masters’ Tournament, Fuchs at the CHI Geneva. Kent Farrington of the United States won back-to-back Grand Prix at this event in 2016 and 2017, while another Testimonee to have enjoyed success at the venue is France’s Kevin Staut.

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