Atalaya – Ardfern to Troon

A short windless passage: Ardfern to Troon

Atalaya of Argyll Nauticat 40 LOA 12.0 metres Crew Gordon Paterson, skipper, George Ennis and Hugh McLean Dates 15 to 20 July 2021

Sunday 15 July

The 09:00 bus from Buchanan Street bus station is our start and escape from Covid isolation, all meeting up to travel to Ardrishaig, then on to Ardfern. Our trip on the bus is in glorious sunshine. Arriving at Ardfern, we make a quick trip into the local store to get ‘must have’ ingredients of tonic and ice, then out onto the pontoon to Atalaya, a very welcome sight. On board provisions are stored and lines taken in and off we go.

As we motor out into Loch Craignish, there are many boats coming into Ardfern for the CCC gathering at Ardfern over that weekend. With the sun beating down we pass Garbha Reisa to port. We motor into the Dorus Mhor, where we see the overfalls and the dancing fairies as the water rises up due to the turbulence.

The water is fairly flat and after a mile or so we enter where many go in trepidation of the reputation of the Gulf of Corryvreckan, the large whirlpool between Jura and Scarba, It looks fairly calm as we enter, the power, the dips and troughs, the sound, the small short standing waves. Then we’re hit by what looks like a wall, we bounce around in no particular direction until we get to the Atlantic side, large waves seem to build up and then we are out into the calm. What an experience. We are soon motoring towards a very misty Colonsay.

Our intended anchor spot is Loch Staosnaig on the south-east side of Colonsay. Whilst at anchor the rolling mist hides all the boats that are around us. We only see the flicker of anchor lights.

Monday 16 July

We have an early breakfast and are away. It is cool and windless. We motor into the Sound of Islay, then midmorning some wind comes along and the sails are out, but not for long. We continue, arriving at Ardminish Bay on Gigha. We get the tender out and set off to shore for a walk and lunch at the local hostelry.

Gordon recognises Skerryvore II, a fellow CCC member, Ewan Buchanan, en route to Oban and asks him over for dinner and drinks. A great time was had by all.

Tuesday 17 July

Our weather has been great, glorious sunshine, and we are now on our way to Ballycastle, Northern Ireland. We pass Rathlin to port and, as we see the cathedral-high caves, the many birds flying around, it makes for a great sight. There’s lots of activity when we eventually tie up at Ballycastle. A walk into town and some sight-seeing, and back to the boat with the famous Morton’s fish and chips.

The morning starts a bit cooler, and a post-breakfast walk is a must, along the shore line, over the golf course, and back to the boat. We are hopeful of some wind in the forecast, but as it turns out our luck is out, so we resort to motoring to Campbeltown, arriving mid-afternoon. We have a bite of lunch and a visit to the local museum; the fishing fleet is gone but the town is still a great whisky maker.

Dinner over, we have a night cap, and then it’s next morning, and now to Lamlash. Surprise, no wind, no clouds, few boats around, and then we hear of a yacht in trouble south of Davaar, aground. We are too far away to assist, but AIS showed the Campbeltown lifeboat going to assist. Then we hear the yacht is off on the rising tide and the incident is sorted.

Arriving in Lamlash, we pick up a mooring buoy, and make ready the tender to go ashore. The day is very hot, and we head for shelter in the Drift Inn, for a drink to cool us down. We stroll along the promenade and sit down as it’s just too hot. Dinner beckons and it’s back to Atalaya, where we are greeted by a family of swans, two adults and eight cygnets. Pictures taken, dinner and the rest of the evening is spent enjoying the vista, the peace and, as the sun goes down, the music wafting across the bay.

West Rathlin – Clive Reeves

Thursday 19 July

There being no rush, breakfast is sorted and we are away. Again, there is no wind and we motor all the way to Troon, tidying as we go, sorting the few things that need doing, removing this and oiling that. We tie up, wash her down, and leave Atalaya of Argyll to rest. She has done all the work.