Christie Watson Trophy – Jimmy’s journal

Jimmy’s journal – on flotilla in the Ionian Sea

Kate Dufour 405 Crew John Bushfield, Mark Bushfield, Jason McKenzie and Gordon Stewart

Beijing Beneteau 373 Crew Duncan McLean, Hugh McLean, Uel Jimmy Watson Torbet and

Portia Beneteau 331 Crew Alice and Jock Robinson Dates 26 September – 2 October 2021

26 September 2021 – arrival

We were picked up at Preveza airport by coach, the transfer taking about an hour. We reached Vounaki at 23:00 to be met by Ozzy, our engineer and maintenance person for the week, driving a beat-up old pickup.

We loaded our bags on to the back and Christine, the charter company’s customer liaison, walked us down to the marina to get our bags and join our boats, Beijing, Kate, and Portia; we negotiated sleeping quarters and settled in with lights out at 01:45.

27 September 2021 – Vounaki towards Sivota

There was an early rise at 07:15 to shower in the excellent marina facilities followed by coffee and pastries onboard Beijing. Passport and ICC checks at 08:30 to ensure we are capable and good to go, followed at 09:30 by our introduction and first daily briefing by the lead crew – Lottie, who was lead skipper for our Rachel, one of the flotilla of seven boats, Christine and Ozzy. Afterwards we familiarised ourselves with Beijing, followed by safety and engine checks. With passage and pilotage plan prepared we cast off. I was to take her out – nothing beats jumping in at the deep end, and it was exactly the opportunity I wanted from this trip.

Once clear of the marina we hoisted the main and unfurled the headsail. Light winds, but it was a chance to get to know the boat. The wind dropped, so we furled the headsail at 13:30 and started the motor.

Our first objective was Port Atheni, a beautiful bay on the island of Meganisi. We arrived around 14:45 and joined the other CCC boats, Kate and Portia. After dropping anchor, with a line to shore and additional line to Kate, we had a late lunch before diving into the beautiful green sea for a swim.

We lifted anchor at 15:30 and motored to Sivota. We passed a reef to starboard, and Hugh took the helm, opting to go between Meganisi and N Thilia island. We continued down Stenon Meganisi, reaching Sivota at 17:00.

The lead crew met us at the 12 Gods pontoon and guided us into the berth Mediterranean-style. Showers at the restaurant were basic but did the job. The lead crew arranged an informal drinks reception at a nearby beach. We had our evening meal at the 12 Gods Restaurant, which got us free berthing at their pontoon. It was a wonderful evening and a lovely opportunity to mix with the other crews. 

Chrystal clear water at Atheni

28 September 2021 – Sivota towards Kioni

Morning briefing was at 09:00. Today’s destination is Kioni, a beautiful small harbour. We are advised to get there early to secure a berth on the pontoon, otherwise we will need to anchor and row ashore. Wind forecast is light winds, 2 to 3 knots and it looks like a day of motoring. Passage and pilotage plan prepared, and we are ready to slip lines at 10:00. Hugh took the helm, as we were packed in tightly with little space to manoeuvre. We passed a tow line to Ozzy on a tender, who towed us to a clear area, and we could motor out of the bay. With only two to three knots of wind, we motored straight for Kioni, arriving at approximately 12:30. Uel took the helm to berth astern.

Kioni lived up to its reputation, it is a stunning small harbour. We strolled along the waterfront and stopped for lunch in one of the small tavernas. Lots of cats and kittens running around, adding to the character of the place. We joined the other boats for a swim and a snorkel further around the bay. We dried off in the sunshine while watching other yachts race for the last spots at the harbour wall, with some shouting and general chaos. Instructive and entertaining.

On the way back we picked up some local produce – olives, feta cheese, humous, olive oil, bread, etc – which we ate back at Beijing as we watched the sun set. Gordon walked up to the old windmills on the headland. Showers onshore were again basic but did the job.

We had our evening meal with the other boats at 19:30. The lead crew arranged tables at a restaurant for the flotilla, another opportunity to meet others and socialise. A beautiful setting, not commercialised, with tables positioned at the water’s edge. We walked into the village for a few drinks in the local jazz bar, whose patrons were curious and intrigued when ten sailors walked through the door of their off-the-beatentrack bar. On his way back from the toilet, Hugh burst into dance, which started a trend; his dancing is now legendary.

29 September 2021 – Kioni towards Eufimia

After a briefing at 09:30, when a passage and pilotage plan was prepared, we cast off at 10:20. We sailed for an hour and stopped for lunch at Filatrou Bay, east of Vathi Ithaca. We dropped anchor and had lunch onboard, followed by another opportunity for a swim and a snorkel. I snorkelled along the north of the bay. The number and variety of fish is spectacular. Small parrot fish swam past, curious to see who was in their patch. Hugh, Uel and Duncan were enjoying the lazy afternoon sunshine. Time suddenly caught up with us, we lifted anchor and picked up the pace as we needed to be into Euphemia by 17:00. There was next to no wind, so we motored.

We experienced swell as we rounded the southern tip of Ithaca. As we passed Andreas, which was the original planned stop-off, we agreed that in the circumstances our amended stop-off spot was better. We arrived at Eufimia at 16:30 pm. It was my turn on the helm, with Duncan on anchor, Hugh and Uel on lines. It was my first-time berthing Med-style. To add to the challenge, Lottie was directing us into a space between two boats which really did not look wide enough. I took my time, which gave them time to manoeuvre the other boats and increase the space. It was tight, with fenders squeezed to within an inch of their stretchable plastic. In all, we were happy with how it went.

We then joined the others and went for a snorkel at a beach just past the harbour wall. Showers, followed by drinks and a quiz, followed by a meal in a local taverna. We were beginning to think we may need a wee holiday to unwind after this holiday. After dinner, we walked along the front and up the hill that overlooks the bay. Incredibly special, looking across the harbour at night with the stars in the sky, picture perfect. Gordon treated us all to some lovely local ice cream. A saunter back to our boats and lights out at 24:00.

30 September 2021 – Eufimia to Nidri

Overcast in morning to clear midday, light south-east wind in morning, 13 knots veering to southwest midday, late afternoon no wind.

Morning briefing at 09:00, little wind today and 27 nautical miles; it is going to be a long day motoring. The unofficial suggested itinerary stop includes the option to jump off a cliff along the way: there were no takers. Passage and pilotage plan prepared, we lifted anchor and slipped lines at 10:00.

Hugh on helm, Jimmy on anchor, Duncan and Uel on lines. The original plan was to stop for lunch at Polis Bay but there was good wind which we wanted to enjoy. Excellent sailing up the Stenon Ithakis. As we rounded the Nisos headland the wind direction veered from southwest to southeast. The wind dropped as we passed Nisos Arkoudhi on our starboard side. Motor back on, headsail away and main in tight. Hugh’s skip hat blew off and into the water. After some hilarity and protestations, we turn around to retrieve it, using it as an opportunity for man overboard drill. Unfortunately, we lost our man overboard. In fairness it was a black hat and almost invisible in the water. 

Kate at Nydri

The CCC DS group

At 14:30 we decided to motor over to Papanikolis Cave (Meganisi). Kate and Portia were already anchored and having lunch. We tied up beside Kate. Uel, myself and a few others swam into the cave which had a beach at the far end. We didn’t know, as we swam over, that this experience was to be the highlight of the week. We found rock stacks on the beach. The peace and serenity we experienced will stay with me for a long time. So much so, that we were to return the following day for Hugh and Duncan to share the experience. We slipped lines at 15:50 and motored to Nidri.

According to the pilotage book, Nidri is more commercial than our previous stop-offs. Hugh took the helm and brought us in safely. We took advantage of a hotel opposite the pontoons where we could shower and use their pool for a swim. A wonderful couple of hours were spent playing a silly keep-the-ball-up game in the pool which brought much laughter and hilarity.

At some point we headed back to the boats to change and go for our meal. We were reminded there was a competition the following night. We went T-shirt hunting after dinner to find the worst T-shirts we could find. To our surprise, we couldn’t find any English tops anywhere, but we did manage to find a couple of English flags; job done, back to the boat, lights out 24:00.

1 October 2021 – Nidri towards Abelike

Morning briefing at 09:30; we decided to head south and navigate round Meganisi and revisit Papanikolis Cave along the way. Found some good wind and tacked our way south down through the Stenon Meganisi. We arrived at the cave about 13:00, got the tender out and pumped it up.

Hugh and Duncan rowed into the cave and disappeared round the turn. They were gone for a period then reemerged. We all agreed it was a special place and well worth revisiting. Anchor lifted, we headed south-east through the gap between Kithros and South Meganisi. Wind dropped on our way back up the east side of Meganisi, engine on and motored all the way to Abelike. Uel took the helm to bring us into our berth. We showered on board as there was only one shower at the taverna.

Cave exploring the unapproved way

We had a busy night ahead of us as we had an egg challenge before dinner. Lottie was hoisted up the mast in the bosun’s chair to launch each boat’s eggs to see who could devise a means of stopping the egg from breaking when dropped from the top of the mast.

Various engineering wonders were presented. We believed, as did many other boats, that we had solved the problem, however there was only one survivor which was in a cage made of straws that looked incredibly vulnerable but proved to be the most successful.

A lot of fun and laughter was had at the expense of each other’s failings. But it was all in good jest. It was then time to get our dodgy T-shirts on. As we looked out the hatch, we saw the English lads were wearing their improvised Scottish tops. We put on our T-shirts with the English flags pinned on and joined in the fun. Lights out at 23:00.

2 October 2021 – Abelike toward Vounaki

Up at 07:00 to go for a walk with Jason, Jock, Alice and Christine, over to Kapali. A small kitten followed us halfway there before jumping off into the bushes at the side of the road. Coffee and breakfast at Pasas, a nice little restaurant overlooking the bay.

Back for the 09:30 briefing, followed by form-filling for lateral flow tests and passenger locator forms to reenter the UK. We had the anchor up and slipped lines at 12:00, heading for Varko Bay, where we anchored beside Kate and Portia. Hugh, Gordon, Mark, Jason, John and I dived into the lovely blue-green waters and spent time snorkelling. Mark, Gordon and I swam to the beach. As we looked back and commented on how beautiful it was to see the boats all anchored in the bay, we reflected on our week and how wonderful it had been. We eventually swam back and lifted anchors at 15:00. Vounaki was only an hour away.

It was my turn again to helm and sail us in. It was a tight spot Lottie was directing me into, the first berth in the marina, between a concrete pier and Kate. It took a couple of attempts, much shouting and laughing, but some useful learning points and we got there safely. So ended our journey. Our last meal was a barbecue for the whole flotilla, where awards and certificates were handed out. Words of appreciation and thanks were said to Lottie, Christine, and Ozzy for making it a most memorable and enjoyable week. Lights out on Beijing at 23:00.

Form filling at Abeliki

Travelling back to UK

We were all up at 07:00 to pack and be off the boat by 09:00. We left our bags at the marina office, before heading up the steep incline for what was to be a superb buffet breakfast. It’s been a long time since any of us have had such an indulgence, and we sat for an hour or so to make the most of it. Hugh, Duncan, Uel and I headed into the small village port to stretch our legs and buy some trinkets for those back home. We skipped lunch as we had eaten so much only a short time before at breakfast.

We joined the others at the beach beside the marina which has free access to dinghies, kayaks and windsurfers. Most of us took advantage of the dinghies on offer, GPRs, Wayfarers, Laser 1s, Hobby catamarans, although Alice was quite happy reading on the beach. A number of us went out on Laser 1s for an hour and informal racing took place. It was lovely to be able to sail in just a T-shirt and shorts as the water is so warm.

Hugh and I went out on one of the Hobby catamarans, which took a bit of getting used to. It was my first time sailing one, but Hugh had experience of the class and it was fantastic to spend some time with him learning the ropes. After a while Hugh went back in and he and Duncan took out a Wayfarer. I spent a couple of hours on the catamaran on my own, finally coming in at 17:00. We had quick showers as time was moving on and we were planning a final meal in the local village – Hugh, Uel, Duncan, Jason, John, Mark (John’s brother), Gordon, Jock, Alice, and myself.

An authentic Greek taverna on the seafront looked promising. Our orders were taken by the owner, who seemed to have enjoyed a few glasses of wine, or something stronger, and turned out to be quite a character. We were treated to a final beautiful sunset as we sat and reflected on our week. A short walk back and Lottie, Ozzy, and Christine met us at the coach. After a quick group photo, we exchanged final farewells and thanked them for what was a truly wonderful Ionian sailing adventure.