Patagonia & the Outdoor Apparel Industry

PRA 245 | RESEARCH AND STRATEGY FOR ADVERTISING | FALL 2018 A STRATEGIC PLANS BOOK BY LAURA CLAYPOOL

The Outdoor Industry The outdoor industry has been steadily growing throughout the past few decades. In 2017, sales from the U.S. outdoor industry, which includes outdoor equipment, apparel, footwear, and accessories, generated $18.9 billion. Even though fashion and outdoor sports sales have recently posted declines, the outerware category remains on the rise. Outerware is the highest-grossing category in the outdoor retail market, growing by 3 percent in the most recent 12 months and generating $3 billion in sales from brands like Canada Goose, The North Face, and Columbia Sportswear. Patagonia produced the three top highest-selling outerwear items between November 2016 and 2017, with the first being its women’s re-tool fleece pullover, which sold at an average price of $93.51.

About 40% of outdoor sales are generated in November and December, so a later winter can dramatically affect a year’s total sales.

With global warming creating harsher winters for North America, especially on the East Coast, outdoor companies will likely see surge in revenue in the coming years. People are craving experiences, a fundamental part of being outdoors, and we see this trend as national park attendance rises. Disposable incomes and total recreational expenditure are supposed to increase in the next five years, with people spending more and more of their free time outside. Twenty percent of Americans are active outdoors twice a week, with the most popular activities being running, fishing, biking, and hiking. The industry has also benefited from the athleisure trend and consumers wanting clothing that is comfortable yet technically advanced.

Outdoor apparel companies are often founded by outdoor enthusiasts and that tends to bring a level of authenticity to the industry and product lines, which customers trust. The outdoor market is heavily saturated, with many global corporations and small local companies offering a wide variety of recreational apparel and equipment. Brands can set themselves apart through their design and marketing communication strategies.

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Brand Perception Map More trendy

Less extreme activity

More extreme activity

Less trendy

Brand Positioning Statements PATAGONIA: To nature enthusiasts, Patagonia is the responsible outdoor hardware and apparel company that manufactures the highest quality of products in a way that does the least harm to people and the planet.

THE NORTH FACE: To hardcore explorers, The North Face is the innovative outdoor apparel company that produces durable and stylish products that will survive any adventure.

COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR: To tenacious adventurers, Columbia Sportswear is the practical outerware company that will protect you in the harshest climates.

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Competitor Snapshot: COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR

CEO: Timothy Boyle Founder: Paul Lamfrom Year founded: 1938 Headquarters: Portland, OR Number of Employees: 7,000 Mission Statement: At Columbia Sportswear, our mission is to design and deliver authentic, outdoor, high-value products for active consumers of all ages.

Tagline: Tested tough.

2016 Annual Sales: $2,380,000 Status: Publicly Traded Company (NASDAQ: COLM) Known for: rain jackets

www.columbia.com 3

Key Campaign: Tested Tough In the fall of 2015, Columbia Sportswear launched its largest advertising campaign, “Tested tough.” The $50 million global campaign was created by a Portland advertising agency, North, and featured broadcast, print, out of home, digital, retail and social components that reached 63 markets across Europe, Asia, South America and North America. Columbia Sportswear’s chairman, Gert Boyle, was the face of the campaign. Over 3,000 applied for two spots as Directors of Toughness who would travel the world for six months testing the durability of Columbia apparel and blogging their experiences. In 2017, celebrities such as Macklemore, Justin Hartley, and Zac and Dylan Efron starred in YouTube videos as gear testers, gaining over 5 million views.

1,771,906

122,878

307,517

Competitior Snapshot: THE NORTH FACE

CEO: Todd Spaletto Founder: Douglas Tompkins

Year founded: 1966

Headquarters: Alameda, CA Number of Employees: 859 Mission Statement: Provide the best gear for our athletes and the modern day explorer, support the preservation of the outdoors, and inspire a global movement of exploration.

Tagline: Never Stop Exploring.

2016 Annual Revenue: $2,300,000 Status: Subsidiary of VF Corporation Known for: insulated jackets

www.thenorthface.com

Key Campaign: Question Madness To celebrate its 50th anniversary and the opening of its new flagship store in New York City in October 2016, The North Face released a campaign called “Question Madness.” The digital-focused campaign launched on Facebook. It was created by The North Face’s agency of record, Sid Lee, and won bronze at the Cannes Lions for the main two minute spot that showed extreme athletes pursuing their passions in the rugged outdoors, synced to the song “Miles From Nowhere” by Yusuf Islam. There were also digital, social media and out of home elements, as well as a series of video shorts featuring athletes who push their bodies and boundaries, and their motivations for doing so. The global campaign targeted over 16 markets including the United Kingdom, Germany, France, China, Hong Kong, Australia and New Zealand.

5,533,565

449,595

3,404,801 4

The History of Patagonia Yvon Chouinard grew up in the San Fernando Valley, learning to rock climb and rappel with his friends as a member of Southern California Falconry Club.

A piton is a metal spike that is hammered into a rock so that a climber can hook a carabiner to it and safely ascend a mountain. In 1957, pitons were made of soft iron and for single-use only. Chouinard taught himself how to blacksmith and made more durable pitons out of steel. He tested them at Yosemite, word spread, and he was in business.

He made pitons in the winter, then traveled and climbed during the rest of the year, supporting himself by selling gear from the back of his car.

In 1965, he partnered with one of his friends, Tom Frost, an aeronautical engineer and fellow climber. Together, they formed Chouinard Equipment and improved and innovated climbing hardware.

Chouinard traveled to Scotland in 1970 to climb and bought a multi-colored rugby shirt.

The high collar protected against hardware slings cutting into his neck and he continued to wear it while rock climbing in the United States. Soon, he was importing shirts and other clothing from all over the world. In 1973, he named his apparel company Patagonia after the region in South America because of its mountains and rugged geography. The company’s logo is the outline of Mount Fitz Roy, a mountain on the border between Chile and Argentina.

Y V O N

C H O U I N A R D

In the 1980s, Patagonia worked with Malden Mills, a fleece manufacturer, to test and develop new fabrics for its outerware, creating Synchilla®, a soft, double-faced fabric that did not pill at all and a new Capilene® polyester. Patagonia also starting producing its apparel in bold colors to differentiate itself from other outdoor products that were mostly green or tan. The company’s popularity spread outside of the outdoor community to the fashion industry which did not care about the technical aspects of the products.

A period of rapid growth came to ended in 1991. To pay off debt, the company was forced to cut costs, laying off 20% of its employees, many of which were Chouinard’s friends or friends of friends. Fortunately, the market came back in the next 20 years and the outdoor industry grew tremendously. Patagonia’s sales increased even during the 2008-09 financial crisis.

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Today, Patagonia is still headquartered in Ventura, CA and has over 2,500 employees around the world, and is one of the top outdoor apparel brands. Rose Marcario was promoted from COO to President and CEO in 2014. Since then, profits have tripled, with sales approaching $1 billion in 2017. Chouinard, now 80 years old, is the chairman of the company and splits his time between his homes in Ventura and Jackson Hole, WY. He still owns 100% of the business and has no desire to ever take the company public.

Patagonia’s Mission “Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.” [ Build the best product ]

To Patagonia, “best” means of highest quality and made in the most ethical and sustainable way. Its products are made to last and are fabricated with environmentally friendly materials. In 1994, the company made it a goal to use only organic cotton for its cotton sportswear by 1996.

It made the switch for all 66 of its cotton products, and has used only organic cotton ever since.

Patagonia continues to test its products and create better fabrics. It kept working to improve its revolutionary 1980s Synchilla material. Regulator® insulation is lighter, warmer, more efficient to wick moisture, and compresses to a pack more easily. From this, a new kind of shell was developed that are also lighter, stretchier, and more supple than before. In 2008, Marcario worked with one of their suppliers, PrimaLoft to create a new recycled insulation. Patagonia was number six on Fast Company’s 2018 World’s Most Innovative Companies.

The company is known for its apparel and equipment, but Chouinard and Marcario have recently turned their focus to food, starting a line called Patagonia Provisions. They opened a salmon plant in British Columbia and produce salmon jerky, purchasing the fish from natives who fish with lines exclusively, allowing them to release endangered species of fish. The line also includes fruit and almond bars, smoked mussels, soups, and a variety of grains. “It’s the same approach we have taken with our clothing--full disclosure about where and how the product is sourced,” said Chouinard for a story with Inc.

[ Cause no unnecessary harm ]

Most of Patagonia’s business decisions are based around sustainability. How can we use more eco-friendly materials? How can we eliminate waste? If the answer is not buying Patagonia products, then that’s fine by Patagonia. “You hear ‘reuse, recycle,’ stuff like that. You also have to consider refuse. Refuse to buy something. If you don’t need it, don’t buy it,” said Yvon Chouinard in an interview with the Today Show.

Patagonia takes full responsibility for its garments from production to disposal. In 2012, all Patagonia flagship stores started accepting used products and once there was enough merchandise, a Worn Wear section was created at each retail store and now has its own dedicated page on the company’s website. In 2013, Patagonia discovered that many of its Tawainese textile mills participated in human trafficking, so it worked to reform them. Patagonia would rather take its products back than have them end up in a landfill so, it has a free return policy and will repair, re-sell, or recycle any item brought back into the store.

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Patagonia’s Mission [ Use business to inspire ]

Patagonia works tirelessly to ensure that its business practices are environmentally friendly, but it also encourages other companies to do the same. In 2002, Chouinard partnered with Craig Mathews, the founder of Blue Ribbon Flies, to create 1% For the Planet, an international coalition of businesses who give at least 1% of their annual sales to environmental causes. The organization now includes over 1200 companies from 48 countries. Chouinard has also advised big business owners like Rob Walton, CEO of Walmart, to greenify their supply chains. In 2012, Patagonia became the first California business to become a B Corp. Applications are reviewed by a nonprofit organization called B Lab. To receive a B Corp certification, Patagonia had to earn 80 out of 200 points across areas regarding labor practices, energy efficiency, corporate transparency, social and environmental impact.

Chouinard’s philosophy of “let my people go surfing,” which is also the title of the book he published in 2005, has molded the company’s culture.

Patagonia’s first employees were Chouinard’s friends who were all passionate about the outdoors. The company has a very low employee turnover rate and does its best to provide its workers with a great work environment. Employees at the headquarters are allowed to dress how they want, served subsidized healthy lunches, encouraged to spend their breaks outside.

With almost 50% of employees being female, childcare has always been important to Patagonia. Malinda, Yvon’s wife, is credited with establishing the Great Pacific Child Development Center at Patagonia’s headquarters in 1985. “We’ve raised fifteen hundred kids so far,” said Chouinard in an interview with The New Yorker. “None of them have been in prison—that I know of, anyway.” The company spends about $1 million per year to subsidize childcare for its employees and offers 16 weeks of maternity leave and 12 weeks of paternity leave. Patagonia receives dozens of calls each month from companies interested in constructing their own on-site childcare centers, so it developed informational kits that include sample budgets, job descriptions, and employee surveys to understand childcare needs.

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Patagonia’s Mission

Bear Ears National Monument

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

[ Implement solutions to the environmental crisis ]

Patagonia’s environmentalist ideals aren’t just words on its website. The company actively supports conservation efforts and its upper management are truly devoted to saving the environment. In 2016, all of the company’s $10 million in Black Friday profits was given to grassroots environmental organizations. Patagonia partnered with Walmart in 2009 to launch the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, an alliance of retailers, manufacturers, and political organizations, that developed the Higg Index, measuring environmental, social, and labor impacts of supply chains.

In recent years, saving the environment has become a political affair. When President Donald Trump signed two presidential proclamations at the end of 2017 that shrunk the size of two national monuments in Utah, Bears Ears National Monument and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, reducing the protected land by about 2 million acres, Chouinard sued him. In 2018, Patagonia endorsed two candidates during the midterm elections for the first time because of their platforms to protect public land. Both Democrats, Representative Jacky Rosen in Nevada and Senator Jon Tester in Montana, won their elections.

New 2018 tax cuts reduced Patagonia’s tax payments by 14 percent, or $10 million. In November, Patagonia announced it would donate the $10 million, in addition to 1% of sales it already commits to donating, to the regnerative organic agriculture movement and groups working to protect the air, water and land. “Our home planet needs it more than we do,” said Patagonia’s CEO Rose Marcario in a LinkedIn post.

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Research: Outdoor Clothing Survey 130 respondents AGE GROUP RESPONDENTS under 18 1 18-24 106 25-35 10 36-50 2 51-65 10 over 65 1

Have you heard of Patagonia’s mission statement?

“Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.”

quality

price

brand

70% female

What brands of outdoor clothing do you wear?

Mark all that apply.

71.5%

60.8%

57.7%

Top 5 Outdoor Activities

walking

hiking camping

21.5%

Yes 69.2%

What is the most important to you when buying outdoor clothing?

9

30% male

novelty

No 30.8%

21.5%

10.8%

kayaking/canoeing

running

What are your perceptions of the Patagonia brand?

Research: Interviews I went to outdoor stores in Santa Monica to do my in-person interviews. I interviewed two employees at the Patagonia store, but the rest of the employees were pretty busy with customers, so I went across the street and talked with wo employees from the REI store.

PATAGONIA EMPLOYEE #1

PATAGONIA EMPLOYEE #2

The first employee was a woman who has worked at Patagonia since April 2018. She said that typical Patagonia shoppers were sportsmen and outdoors people ages 2040. She said that what makes Patagonia really special is that it “stands behind its products” and it is willing and able to repair almost anything. She said that the company culture trickles down to the retail level. The environment is easygoing and there are company field days with activities.

She also mentioned that there was daycare for the kids at the headquarters. Three words she said encapsulated Patagonia’s brand were “activists, caring, and athletic.”

The second employee was a man who has worked at Patagonia for 13 years. He said Patagonia consumers were hardcore athletes and travelers ages 18-40. In his opinion, Patagonia was unique because of its environmental consciousness. He said the company culture manifests itself at the retail stores because employees are encouraged to do outdoor activities. The three adjectives he used to describe Patagonia’s brand were “environmentally friendly, high quality, and inspiring.”

REI EMPLOYEE #1

REI EMPLOYEE #2

The first employee was a woman and she had worked at REI since 2011. She couldn’t narrow down the typical REI shopper and just said the customer base was “pretty wide.”

When asked what she knew about the Patagonia brand, she said it was “environmentally conscientious, expensive because of the high quality,” and the company encourages people to “stick to what they have, not create more waste.”

She herself was a skiier and a cyclist and she liked to wear Patagonia, Artc’teryx, and prAna.

The second employee was a man who had been working at REI for five years. He said that REI customers were anyone because they sold such a wide variety of products for every activity from hiking to camping to running, etc.

He said he knew that Patagonia had a “small environmental footprint, a great return policy, and recycles and reuses every part of their products.” He enjoys camping and hiking and preferred to wear REI apparel because it made comparable clothing at a lower price.

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Target Personas PRIMARY MARKET: upper class nature lovers, ages 25-40 Whitney is 25 years old and lives in an apartment in Seattle, WA with a few friends from college. She works in HR at Microsoft during the week, but spends her weekends outside the office. She has been skiing and snowboarding her whole life and goes to the mountain pass frequently in the winter. She usually hits the gym a couple times a week, sometimes mixing in a yoga or barre class. Whitney loves listening to podcasts, grabbing drinks with her friends and watching action movies. She shops online and relies on reviews and recommendations from friends and family when purchasing new products.

Bryan is 34 years old and has a master’s degree in aerospace engineering and works at Northrop Grumman. He and his wife just bought a house in Santa Monica because they’re looking to start a family soon. He is adventurous and loves to explore California with his wife and their dog. He was an athlete in college and is now an active trail runner and competes in races for fun. When Bryan isn’t running, he’s checking out new craft breweries, playing basketball with friends, or reading about the future of energy. Bryan doesn’t like to shop and only buys things if he needs them from companies he knows and trusts. He has a Facebook account but doesn’t check it very often.

SECONDARY MARKET: college explorers ages 18-24

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Cole is 20 years old and attends University of Southern California. He is a finance major and lives in an apartment with roommates. He is originally from Arizona and loves warmer climates. Cole has a part-time internship at a financial services company and spends his disposable income on experiences like music festivals and sports games. His purchasing decisions are largely swayed by social media influencers that he follows and what is popular among his peers at school. He likes to camp, surf, hike, and make YouTube videos with his fraternity brothers. Cole is very active on social media platforms and posts content weekly.

Patagonia SWOT Analysis WEAKNESSES

STRENGTHS

• distinct brand personality • positive brand perception • high quality products • environmentally friendly • strong company culture • high brand loyalty • integrates new technology • social activism •

OPPORTUNITIES

• less middlemen sports stores • lifestyle marketing and branding is important and attractive to younger generation • people are spending more time outside • global warming means harsher winters and more need for outerware • online shopping is on the rise • expand sales to new countries • going public •

S

W

O

T

• becoming too mainstream • high price • not as fashionable or trendy as other more millennial-focused brands • products focused on few outdoor activities • limited advertising •

THREATS

• aging consumers • market saturation • people are opting for smaller, niche brands • economic uncertainties in manufacturers’ countries •

Brand Personality Statement Patagonia is your environmentally conscious uncle who is interested in politics, spends all his free time exploring national parks, and tells you stories about simpler times.

www.patagonia.com

1,441,970

423,409

3,713,460 12

Creative Brief WHAT IS THE MOST COMPELLING IDEA If you don’t need more Patagonia products, then don’t buy more Patagonia products.

PROJECT Anti-Consumerism Black Friday Campaign WHY WE ARE ADVERTISING Black Friday is known for its massive retail sales. With every unecessary purchase, consumers are increasing waste and their environmental footprint on the planet.

WHAT IS THE ADVERTISING TRYING TO ACHIEVE We are raising awareness for our Common Threads Initiative and encouraging people to think twice before they purchase products from Patagonia or any other company that they don’t really need.

WHO ARE WE TALKING TO Patagonia customers are upper class males and females ages 18-40 years old who love the outdoors and care about the environment.

WHAT DO WE KNOW ABOUT THEM -They are willing to pay for high quality products.

-They share the company’s values of protecting the environment and doing the least harm.

-American consumers spent $45 billion during Thanksgiving weekend in 2010.

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WHY THEY SHOULD BELIEVE IT Patagonia makes its products as sustainably and ethically as it can, but any kind of manufacturing creates waste. One R2 fleece jacket takes 135 litres of water to make and 20 pounds of carbon dioxide to transport.

Patagonia products are built to last a long time so you don’t need to buy multiple jackets.

GUIDELINES We are advertising our products to customers by saying not to buy them and we must do it in the most genuine and honest way possible. We want to educate consumers on the Common Threads Initiative and make them understand the gravity of their purchasing decisions.

Campaign: Don’t Buy This Jacket THE RESULTS Patagonia placed this full page ad in the New York Times on Black Friday, November 25, 2011 and repeated the messaging online for Cyber Monday.

No matter what happened, Patagonia would be victorious. Sales could increase because the company was top of mind and consumers had a positive reaction to this message, or sales could decline because customers decided not to purchase Patagonia products and did what the ad wanted them to do.

In 2012, Patagonia saw around a 30% increase in sales. The Common Threads Initiative repaired over 30,000 items in 18 months and started a new project called Worn Wear. Patagonia flagship stores began accepting used Patagonia products. Once there was enough merchandise, a Worn Wear section was created at each retail store. Used products are now available to purchase online through the Worn Wear page on the company’s website. As a reward for donating used items, customers receive Patagonia gift cards for 20-50% of the product’s value that they can apply to future purchases of new or used gear.

This campaign shows that consumers appreciate transparency and companies whose marketing efforts and business practices align with their missions and values.

VIEW NOW You can view this ad on Patagonia’s blog here.

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Patagonia’s First Commercial THE SITUATION Although Patagonia was founded in 1973, it did not produce a single television commercial until August 2017. This commercial does not even advertise Patagonia products. It’s a video encouraging environmental activism.

President Trump requested to review 28 of America’s national monuments, from the Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument in Arizona to the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument in Hawai’i, threatening to sell the land to private companies.

Ryan Zinke, the Secretary of the Interior, is in charge of 500 million acres of land, about 20% of the United States. He once stated that “our greatest treasures are public lands,” and Yvon Chouinard took that as a promise to protect them.

THE SPOT: “WHY PATAGONIA IS FIGHTING FOR PUBLIC LANDS” The 60-second spot shows Patagonia founder, Yvon Chouinard out in nature. He speaks to the camera for some parts and the rest is voiceover played over beautiful shots of American landscapes. Chouinard talks about how the outdoors have impacted his life and business. He then goes on to say that politicians are trying to take public lands away from the public. He wants his descendants to experience nature the way that he was able to growing up, and he wants Secretary Zinke to preserve the land. The spot ends with a call to action to text a number to remind Zinke of his word.

MEDIA SPEND Patagonia spent close to $700,000 on television and radio time in Montana, Secretary Zinke’s home state, as well as in Utah and Nevada whose monuments are in danger of being reduced.

VIEW NOW Watch the spot on Patagonia’s YouTube channel here.

NATIONAL MONUMENTS UNDER REVIEW 1. Rose Atoll Marine National Monument, American Samoa 2. Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, Arizona 3. Ironwood Forest National Monument, Arizona 4. Sonoran Desert National Monument, Arizona 5. Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, Arizona 6. Berryessa Snow Mountain National Monument, California 7. Carrizo Plain National Monument, California 8. Giant Sequoia National Monument, California 9. Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument, California 10. San Gabriel Mountains National Monument, California 11. Mojave Trails National Monument, California 12. Sand to Snow National Monument, California 13. Canyons of the Ancients National Monument, Colorado 14. Pacific Remote Islands Marine National Monument, Hawai’i 15. Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument, Hawai’i 16. Craters of the Moon National Monument, Idaho 17. Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, Maine 18. Northeast Canyons and Seamounts Marine National Monument, Massachusettes 19. Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, Montana 20. Basin and Range National Monument, Nevada 21. Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada 22. Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument, New Mexico 23. Río Grande del Norte National Monument, New Mexico 24. Marianas Trench Marine National Monument, Northern Mariana Islands & Guam 25. Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument, Oregon 26. Bears Ears National Monument, Utah 27. Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah 28. Hanford Reach National Monument, Washington

Storyboard

Our business was built on having wild places

Public lands have never been more threatened

Behind a politician are the energy companies and the big corporations that want to use up those natural resources

I hope my kids and grandkids will have the same experiences that I had

Zinke has said he believes in public lands

Let’s not let him back down on that

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“You learn that how you got there was what’s important.

Not what you accomplished.”

- Y V O N

C H O U I N A R D ( 2 0 1 0 )