The pros and cons of using pre-made fans and hand made fans

The difference between a lash stylist making their own fans or using pre made fans has been a controversial topic for lash artists. Volume lashes offer clientele a fuller and fluffy look. Unlike classic lash extensions, which are applied 1:1 on the natural lash, volume lashes use 2 and even up to 8 of very thin and lightweight eyelash extensions to create a fan by hand to attach to a single natural lash.

Now, due to the rising interest and popularity of the volume look premade fans have become more popular. Pre-made fans are machine cut and come in a tray similar to individual lash extension trays. A note, do not confuse pre-made fans with clusters. Clusters have a larger knot at the base and are meant to be used for 1 night only, taken off and used with temporary glue.

Handmade fans are made in real time during the appointment. Mastering the volume lashing technique takes dedication and a lot of practice. The lash stylist has full control of the lashing process from start to finish and it can create a volume fan that is the right length, diameter, and weight for the client’s natural lash. The lash stylists can take eye shape, brow shape, facial features and the client’s desired look into consideration.

However, learning proper volume pick-up techniques, “fanning” and adhesive control takes time, effort and lots of practice. In general, we recommend a 2–3-day course for the volume lashing technique and depending on how many practice hours and clients it can take up to a full year to master the volume lashing technique. Due to the personalized look, mastery of a difficult technique lash stylists can have a higher pricing on their lash menu.

Pre-made fans are machine cut and come in a tray similar to the classic/ volume lash extension trays. The bases of the lashes are sealed together to make the fan either using adhesive or heat i.e., glue-bonded or heat-bonded. In turn, you need a permanent adhesive to attach the fan to the natural lash. Pre-made fans come in all sizes, shapes and can range from 2D to 15D and .03 to .07 in thickness!

A great use of pre-made fans is to bridge the gap between classic and learning handmade volume fans. Many lash stylists also use a mixture of hand-made fans and pre-made fans to cut down on appointment time. Pre-made fans, however, have flat bases which means it will not wrap around

the natural lash and it will be difficult to have a seamless connection. Stylists must be vigilant of getting a seamless connection so pop off does not occur. You can also have clumping at the base, particularly with glue-bonded fans, as well as sticking to surrounding lashes. Glue-bonded pre-made fans also are heavier which can cause breakage, pop off and will not give a client a “natural” feel. Ultimately, a client’s lashes have a higher risk of damage from gluebonded pre-made fans. We recommend using a heat-bonded pre-made fan.

Of the two positions that pre-made fans are secured in their tray we recommend that they are secured at their base, the same way classic extensions are, but to be handled with volume tweezers. This allows maximum flexibility in wetting and applying the fan particularly in the shorter lengths. For the hand-made fans, if your used to a thicker adhesive, we recommend a thinner adhesive but not watery! This will help the fan to form, keep open and wrap around the natural lash seamlessly.

Ultimately, the lash artists skill level and clientele preference will dictate the choice between handmade or pre-made fans.

Nicole Flevaris is the founder and president of The Lashe, an eyelash extension products company. She later founded Salon Lashe in 2011, a premier salon for eyelash extensions in the heart of Chicago’s gold coast. Flevaris graduated from the University of Illinois with a bachelor’s degree in marketing and international business and with a master’s in business administration, with specialty in finance and entrepreneurship. She also has a background in biology, chemistry, medicinal chemistry, and pharmacognosy. Flevaris founded The Lashe in 2007 and completed the line in 2009. The cornerstone is the much-acclaimed adhesive she formulated especially for eyelash extensions.

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