Rouge Fall 2018

Fall 2018

Fashion & Economics

Letter from the Editor

Fashion and economics are undoubtedly connected. Over $250 billion is spent annually on fashion in the United States alone, with the global industry valued at $1.2 trillion at least. Not only is the fashion world a source of great wealth, it is an opportunity for expression. Many musicians, like Kanye West and BeyoncĂŠ, have tried their hand at designing. Their involvement in the fashion industry has had varying effects on both their popularity and reputation, partly due to the pricing of their lines. Their brands raise both the question of how much people will pay and why they will pay. Do they love the design or the designer?

Fashion always comes at a price, though some are higher than others. Debate has risen about the ethics, or lack thereof, behind some successful brands. We are all familiar with stories of mistreated workers, but how deep does this mistreatment go and how can you as a shopper avoid supporting it?

This issue of Rouge will explore how fashion and economics are intertwined and how that affects you.

Annika Suderburg, Editor Input: Mia Dooley, Galilea Garcia, and Madeline Laun

ROUGE 1 Shift to Thrift How and where to buy your clothes without breaking the bank 2 Made in Metallics A variety of looks designed to accent the eyes with shimmering shadows 3 Musicians in Fashion The effect of artists’ brands on their income and reputation 4 To All the Purses I’ve Loved Before A guide to when to splurge, when to save, and when to show 5 Service How clothes production negatively impacts the environment and its inhabitants 6 Featured Artist: Mia Dooley A selection of works and a written statement from AP Art student, Mia Dooley 7 Ev’ryone Wishes for Silver and Gold Why jewelry is important and how to utilize it in your everyday wardrobe 8 Resources List of sources cited

Cover Look Makeup by Daniella Gersh Modeled by Sophie Chiara Photographed by Madeline Laun Fall 2018 Contributors Sophie Chiara, Mia Dooley, Galilea Garcia, Daniella Gersh, Madeline Laun, Kate Mena, Katie Nuzzi, Gabriela Rizzi, Lilly Sayenga, Annika Suderburg, Sophie Todd, and Gianna Vazira

Where to Thrift

By Daniella Gersh

Thrift shopping is a perfect way to get fashionable, high-quality clothing pieces at a discounted price. This is a guide to some of my personal favorite spots to find cute used clothes.

Goodwill Pros -Chain with many locations -Wide selection -Relatively cheap prices -Sales Cons -Have raised prices since thrift stores have gained popularity -Often disorganized -The sales are usually pretty limited Overall Rating: 6/10 Location Closest to La Salle: 340 S Fair Oaks Ave, Pasadena, CA 91105 Favorite Item I’ve Found: Light blue windbreaker ($15)

Buffalo Exchange

Pros -Great items (only accept certain used items) -Well organized stores -Easily navigated, even when crowded Cons -More expensive Overall Rating: 9/10 Location Closest to La Salle: 131 N La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036 Favorite Item I’ve Found: Camouflage pants ($20)

American Way

Pros -Great prices -Sales often -Large store Cons -Disorganized -Isles are narrow and hard to navigate when it’s crowded -Only one location Overall Rating: 7/10 Location Closest to La Salle: 3226 W Magnolia Blvd, Burbank, CA 91505 Favorite Items I’ve Found: Jelly sandals ($5), brown suede jacket ($5)

Crossroads Trading Company

Pros -Only accept select used items -Chain with many locations -Organized Cons -Selection is very hit or miss -Discounts are rare -More expensive Overall Rating: 7/10 Location Closest to La Salle: 104 E Colorado Blvd, Pasadena, CA 91105 Favorite Item I’ve Found: Graphic tee by Madewell ($10)

Made in Metallics Aspiring MUA, Gabriela Rizzi, and her take on the makeup trend of metallics Modeled by Kate Mena (Above), Katie Nuzzi (Far Right), and Sophie Todd (Right)

Metallics have been very fashionable in the makeup world for some time now.

For these looks, I went for some of the metals that I think go underappreciated.

I skipped out on the ever so popular gold and instead

opted for silver, gunmetal, and bronze. For all the looks, I used NYX foil play cream pigments to achieve the metallic look.

These pigments give the shiny, metallic look that was desired without a chunky shimmer to them. For Kate, I used the shade

Dagger, a warm bronze color. Her look is a warm halo eye with the metallic in the center of the lid; I reflected that metallic on her lower lash line. For

Katie and Sophie, both their looks are pretty simple and smoked out. Sophie’s look uses the shade Malice all over the lid and is smoked out with matte black shadow. Katie’s look is a bit lighter than the others as it is centered

around silver. I used the shade Polished all over the lid and smoked it out with a soft gray shadow. On the inner orner, I used one of the Stila glitters in Diamond Dust.

Musicians and Fashion: Income and Exclusivity

By Galilea Garcia

In the past few decades, the fashion industry has taken up a new trend using recording artists as the faces of their campaigns.

Numerous musicians have made deals or partnerships with fashion brands where they label themselves the creative director. In the past, it was common to see an actress or well-known supermodel as the face of a high-end brand.

Now, we see recording artists like Selena Gomez sponsoring Coach on her Instagram or Harry Styles in a Gucci promotion.

With Hip Hop becoming the number one listened to genre in the United States, finally permeating mainstream culture completely, we see the faces of recording artists in fashion advertisements even more often. Metro Boomin

and SZA both appeared in Gap commercials recently. Two other artists, A$AP Rocky and Lil Yachty, both have their very own capsule collection with Guess and Nautica. Travis Scott released a special edition Air Jordan shoe this year. These collaborations have become customary in both the music and fashion worlds, andare extremely rewarding to both parties. Artists are usually loosely involved in the production or design of the clothes they’re advertising; they are solely there to strengthen the brand with their cultural influence. There are only a few musicians who have the guts to establish their own brand and receive regular attention for their attempts.

Perhaps the most controversial music

Kanye West in The Life of Pablo merchandise

success. Kanye is definitely not the single highest-paid person in footwear as he has claimed via Twitter, but he manages to sell his shoes out in hours due to his exclusivity and limited production. This is exactly the idea fashion gurus think he’s poking fun at with his Season 6 campaign. The fact that the celebrities he chose for the campaign are affiliated with Kim Kardashian and sport her platinum hair sends a message. Many have theorized he’s mocking the exclusivity of his own brand. People want to have a life like Kanye and Kim’s, thus they buy his clothing and become part of their success. So, are his clothes actually worth it? Or is the increase in his wealth simply due to his

Kim Kardashian in Yeezy

artist and designer at the moment is Kanye West, who first signed a 10 million dollar contract with adidas in 2013. This signing was followed by the debut of his brand’s, Yeezy, Season 1 apparel and footwear in October of 2015.

This signing was followed by the debut of his brand’s, Yeezy, Season 1 apparel and footwear in October of 2015. Although his sneakers have had major success, his clothing is quite unremarkable, and his fashion shows have been characterized by their bombasteness and pretentiousness. The New York Times has pronounced his clothing as not being original or alluring enough on their own to match their serious presentation. There is a newfound interest in the Yeezy Season 6 line due to its new campaign. The campaign showcases celebrities clad in the new Yeezy line, each with a platinum blonde wig resembling Kim Kardashion. Despite this new humorous approach in advertising Kanye’s line, it is strange that his brand has been an overall

Life of Pablo merchandise

his musical fan base bankrupting themselves to own yet another part of Kanye West? Most would go with the latter. Yeezy is not the first time Kanye was able to profit substantially from a clothing line. During his Life Of Pablo tour, fans were outraged that he had used Gildan as a supplier for his tour merchandise. The anger especially arises from the fact that he had turned a simple $2 tee into $55 I Feel Like Pablo merch; however, his fans’ annoyance with his supplier did not in anyway halt his sales. He made

upwards of $1 million when he opened a pop- all the promotion about Ivy Park wanting up shop for 2 days in SoHo, New York. This to empower women seemed to fall apart unwas only one of the 21 pop-up shops in August der the revelation that the women sewing Ivy Park sport bras are anything but autonomous.

Similar to Kanye, the disappointment with a supplier didn’t reflect in the Ivy Park sales. At least not at the beginning. The start of the Ivy Park launch in 2016 excited Beyoncé’s fan base, eager to get the clothing online, but the main supplier of the brand, Topshop, had a website crash. Fans lamented how difficult it was to get their hands on a sweatshirt online, yet few fans actually showed up in stores for the launch. Topshop’s main base in London was significantly more packed than any of their other stores. News outlets were left stunned when the fans in lines vanished, many empty-handed, within a couple hours. Although Ivy Park wanted to be inclusive and accessible, this might have been the factor that made her in-store sales low compared to those online. In 2016, the most searched for brand in Nordstrom was Ivy Park, Beyoncé in an Ivy Park sports bra

alone. At his concerts he sold $780,000 in merch, also made with Gildan, at a single show in Madison Square Garden. West profited heavily from his deal with Gildan and his fans’ disappointment didn’t seem to reflect in his sales. The criticism Kanye received for partnering with Gildan is nothing compared to the constant judgment of Beyoncé, whose Ivy Park athleisure line is made by underpaid and exploited Sri Lanken garment makers. An expose

by The Sun goes into detail about the harsh conditions these garment makers work under. They call attention to how the $6 they make a day is not anywhere near the amount those workers need to survive. In reaction to this article, fans have called her fashion line and message hypocritical. When first introducing the line, the anticipation for something accessible and inspiring to a diverse mix of women created a widespread excitement on many platforms. Unfortunately,

Jordyn Woods in Yeezy

but when actually walking into a store that year, the Ivy Park section was mostly intact.

Perhaps if Beyoncé had made Ivy Park available in stores for a shorter time, her sales would have been more successful. In order to be a music mogul, artists seem to try their hand at fashion design, but it’s always more of an add-on to their long list of accomplishments than an actual passion. This is clear in Beyoncé’s case, whose moderate success in the fashion industry did not affect her success in the music industry.

Fashion for recording artists just seems to be another place where someone like Beyoncé or Kanye West can build their brand awayfrom music. It isn’t very often that both the music and fashion worlds are intertwined, and compliment each other.

“

The main problem with recording artists in the fashion world is that their designs are never as great as their music. There are few recording artists who put the energy they use for their music into other pursuits.

Perhaps the most recent would be Tyler, the Creator, who has extended his creativity into multiple outlet from the beginning of his career. His designs seem authentic because they weren’t created after his music was popular enough for his success

Fashion for recording artists just seems to be another place where someone like Beyoncé or Kanye West can build their brand away from music.

to be guaranteed. Artists like Kanye and Beyoncé will always prioritize their music career, and only go into different realms when they have a stable group of worshippers. Their attempts at creating clothing seem more like an expansion of their empire, not an authentic desire to create art.

Kanye West with his Yeezy line

On a Golden Platform Sophie wears a vintage black bodysuit with Michael Kors heels and a Chanel purse

To All the Purses I’ve Loved Before

By Sophie Chiara

What makes something special? The designer? The price? The people who wear it? Or maybe you think the answer is all three? Well, you’d be wrong because it’s all about the presentation, the trick of the eye.

In this age of Instagram models and media fame, it’s more than likely to see celebrities bombarding your feed with new purchases and high-end fashion trends you’ll probably never get your hands on. But ask yourself, what really makes the difference between a $10,000 handbag and a knock off?

It’s simply your outlook. I actually find it quite disturbing when I see public figures throwing hundreds of thousands of dollars away on things like purses, when I can match the look for almost nothing.

When styling any kind of look, the focus should be on one major component, like the color or theme. For my first look I based everything on the color orange, an attention grabber. Even before purchasing this dress I knew the color would be a perfect match for my style and the other items in my closet. That’s something to always ask before purchasing: how many different outfits could this make with my pre-existing wardrobe? If the answer is none than either try finding something similar that works better for existing outfits or maybe you do just want experiment and try something new. If that’s the case, make sure

the piece isn’t overpriced, since trials shouldn’t break the bank. This orangelined Louis Vuitton handbag completes the look. Now you tell me, is it real or fake?

Orange Dream With orange-lined duffel bag

When choosing a handbag for an outfit first decide whether you’re trying to dress it up or down. If you’re going for a fancier look, try using a small, sleek bag and wear heels like in the photo. The purse I selected for

this look is a vintage mahogany alligator skin handbag, purchased for only $40. The dress I chose isn’t inherently fancy, so I was able to make the look more casual with with a pair of sneakers and a blush backpack.

Another way to incorporate bags and purses into your style is to pair them with outfits meant for more casual occasions.

Street style is the perfect example of the

combination between athleisure, clothing designed for workouts but worn alternatively, and more high fashion trends. For this beige look, I’ve chosen to highlight both active apparel and posh garments to create a more well rounded outfit. With the combination of track pants and Air Force 1’s, along with a low-cut shirt and fur coat, I’ve constructed an all around baller outfit, drip. The addition of a Louis Vuitton backpack blurs the line between what could’ve been an overdone look with its now more comprehensive layers of both street and lavish wear.

Pretty in Pink Above Left: With a vintage mahogany alligator skin purse Above Right: Clutching a blush backpack

Lastly, I’ve assembled an outfit designed for city life or late nights on the town. This well put together look is simple and only requires one staple piece, either a LBD, little black dress, or bodysuit.

You can dress up the look with accessories such as jewelry, heels and a belt. I chose my Chanel purse and chain-link belt, along with gold platform Michael Kors heels. I finished

to yourself. And if they do say something, just know you’re looking fly and they’re most likely jealous of your new found confidence and style.

Born in Beige Holding a Louis Vuitton backpack

off the look with a classic, black, and glossy Chanel handbag. This is a more expensive look but this variety in pieces is essential to any growing wardrobe. With time comes quality and over the years it will become obvious which pieces will remain in your closet.

In conclusion wear what you want, do what you want, be what you want and no one will say anything if you are always true

Back in Black Top: Showing a Louis Vuitton backpack Bottom: Carrying a Chanel purse

The Negative Effects of the Fashion Industry

By Madeline Laun

Everyone loves good deals! On Black Friday, stores are packed with people trying to save money. In the clothing industry, cheap clothes are a reality everyday; people do not have to wait until Black Friday to get deals. With companies like Forever 21 and H&M, anyone can frequently update their wardrobe because so much clothing is available for cheap. These low prices seem great for the consumer, but they have very negative effects on the environment and people.

The production of clothes releases a lot of pollution. Many clothes, especially cheaply made clothes, contain materials such as petrochemicals, polyester and nylon that are not biodegradable. Because of fast fashion, people cycle through clothes much faster, and the clothes end up in landfills a lot of the time. People go through clothes very quickly because companies are constantly releasing new lines of cheap clothing. Approximately half of fast fashion clothes will be discarded within a year. Many clothing items are donated, but a lot of these clothes still end up in landfills. Thrift shops only take the best items, and the rest, including clothes that do not sell, are sent to third world countries. If they still are not used there, they are sent to landfills where they will not degrade. In addition to the clothes not being biodegradable, the carbon footprint left by the production of a shirt made with polyester is double that of a shirt made of cotton. The production of clothes made of polyester released 706 billion kiograms of greenhouse gases in just 2015 alone.

Polluted landscape outside Dhaka, Bangladesh

Clothes made of cotton are not much better than those made of polyester. The cotton grown for clothing is covered in pesticides which is detrimental to the environment and the health of the people around the farms. In India, a large number of districts face heavy contamination from pesticides that are used on cotton farms. They pollute the air, water, and soil. People who work with or around these pesticides are at a high risk of health issues; many fall ill even when they follow the safety precautions when using pesticides, and others fall ill because of exposure to pesticides through food or water.

The dying of clothing is also very harmful to

Man boating on the Ciatrum River

the environment. In Indonesia, the Citarum River has become one of the most polluted rivers in the world mostly due to the textile factories that are on its shores.

Dying clothing requires water, and after the clothes are dyed, textile factories dump chemical infested water into the river, treating it as a sewage system. This kills the ecosystem living in the river, and later ecosystems in the sea, as the rivers leads to the sea. Dyes do not only affect the water, but also the health of the people living around the contaminated water. More than 15

million people depend on this river for water, and they face serious health risks because of the contamination.

The transportation of clothes is also harmful to the environment. Clothes can be cheaply made in places such as Bangladesh and Vietnam, so many big companies produce clothes in those countries. This requires materials to be sent to the countries, and after, the finished product needs to be sent back. This transportation is done by ships that use large amounts of fossil fuels that are extremely harmful to the environment.

One study showed that in one year, a single ship can proShipment of clothes duce equivalent to 50 million cars worth of pollutants.

The production of clothes takes a lot of water. In 2015, the fashion industry used 79 billion cubic meters of water towards the production of clothes. It takes approximately 2,720 liters of water just to make a shirt, and even more water to make a pair of jeans. It also takes more water to produce cotton, which is prominent in most articles of clothing. This is a lot of water, and the usage of water is only predicted to go up. The world already is in need of water, and this water cannot go to people that need it. Rivers and lakes where companies take water to make clothes are drying out. This lack of water has made the climate of those areas much hotter in the summer and colder in the winter. This also ruins the ecosystems that lived in these lakes and rivers.

Many fast fashion companies make their clothes using sweatshops. A sweatshop is a factory in which goods are made by workers who work for very low wages in poor conditions. This is how big corporations are able to sell clothes for such low prices. These workers, which include many children, work in grueling conditions from dusk until dawn almost everyday. They get a wage that is far too small for the amount of work they are doing in a day; it can range from cents to one to two dollars per hour of work. The conditions of the factory are in most cases very dangerous, and they do not meet safety codes. For example, factory fires have killed many people workSweatshop in Bangladesh ing in sweatshops because the factories are not up to fire safety codes and people are not able to safely evacuate. In just one factory fire in Bangladesh, 1,100 people died. The rooms that people work in are usually quite dirty and do not have proper air conditioning or heating either, making work uncomfortable and dangerous.

A good way to stop supporting fast fashion, but still buy clothes for cheap, is to shop at thrift shops. You, as a shopper, will be able to buy clothes for cheap without negatively affecting the environment or supporting companies that use sweatshops. Moreover, I think that thrifting helps individuals develop their looks and own personal style as every find is completely unique! I hope that next time you shop, you first take into account the effects the fashion industry has socially and environmentally.

Featured Artist Mia Dooley

Every portrait that is painted with feeling is a portrait of the artist, not of the sitter.

— Oscar Wilde —

For all those who have encouraged me in my artistic endeavors, thank you. For all those who have told me that my art made them feel something, thank you. But with all due respect, none of it was for you.

My art is just that: mine. I promise my goal is not to be selfish or pretentious. To me, art is simply just meant to be about the artist. It’s about every brush stroke, every shade of white or red, every layer of paint on top of paint on top of dried tears spilled out of frustration caused by an oddly shaped leaf in the corner of a piece. These are all things I, as an artist, experience during the process of painting. They are for me to work out my thoughts and emotions in a comprehensible (or, admittedly, incomprehensible) way when words are no longer enough.

But how is a teapot or a bridge a rendering of my emotions? Well, that’s for me to decide. Talking about art and trying to analyze it, to me, automatically devalues the piece.

A picture is a secret about a secret, the more it tells you the less you know.”

— Diane Arbus —

Elevensies

In Bloom

Sunset on Sacred Shape

Unearthed

Blurring the Concept

Silver and Gold: The Importance of Jewlery

By Lilly Sayenga

Silver and gold, Silver and gold, ev’ryone wishes for silver and gold. How do you measure its worth?

Just by the pleasure it gives here on Earth.

-Burl Ives’ Silver and Gold

Why do we wear jewelry? Something draws us to the glittering charm or the simple chain, a certain need to adorn ourselves. Jewelry uses designs that are pleasing to the eye to tell a story about the person wearing it. Who are you, and how can jewelry help convey that to others? Perhaps the necklace that you’ve had since kindergarten or the ring that was once your grandmother’s can help answer that question. But jewelry doesn’t have to be an heirloom to be special- there can be a piece that is entirely your own, so representative of your character, that it can be the most treasured thing you own. It can help you define or redefine your character as tastes change over time.

What you like now may not be what you like later, and jewelry can channel that development.

Jewelry’s origins are traceable back to 1600 BC or even earlier as ancient Greeks began manipulating gold and gems to adorn themselves. By the mid 17th century, global trade had expanded jewelry into a common symbol of wealth and beauty. Jewelry is a staple in the modern woman’s arsenal of accessories- it’s what we use to feel powerful, increase our self esteem, or cling onto an important memory. In these three looks, I manipulate my own collection of jewelry to showcase three different dimensions of my personality.

Look 1 Necklace: Handmade by me, Earrings: Target, Bracelet: Gift from one of my friends These are the pieces that I wear almost daily. They’ve become my trademarks; so easily traceable to me that even my friends have noticed! Although the most simple of the three looks, this is the basis of my own personal connection to jewelry: gold hoops just big enough to be noticeable but not so big that they’re distracting, a black choker that’s elegant yet dramatic, and a bracelet with my initial, L, on it. Here, I am reading my favorite book, Bleak Expectations by Mark Evans. Just as books are an integral part of developing one’s identity, jewelry helps one. find themselves: it shows not only what a person likes but also what they find important enough to display to the world.These pieces are my choice. How will you use jewelry to show yours?

Look 2 Necklace: Anthropologie (old), Earrings: J.Crew Factory, Bracelet: Boutique in Ann Arbor, MI In this look, warm copper and brass metals are complemented by the similar shades of tortoiseshell and gold. The necklace I am wearing was a gift from my mom- I picked out the charms myself from Anthropologie’s custom necklace bar a few years ago. The antique appearance of these charms reminds me of my love for the past- an era I will never know but never forget. The whistle on it actually works, too! The bracelet was a gift from my dad on my family’s annual trip to Michigan, which I always wear whenever my band performs. These pieces are my own personal heirlooms with memories that I wish to preserve and pass on.

Look 3 Necklace: Sugarfix by Baublebar at Target, Earrings: Target, Ring: Vintage from Etsy This look reminds me of a combination of Audrey Hepburn and Sandy from Grease- an odd but interesting mix! These are more classic pieces, though the multiple strands of pearls plus bow closure add texture to an otherwise traditional (and dare I say matronly) pairing. The necklace is also reminiscent of the necklace worn by Hepburn in the opening scene of the iconic film, Breakfast At Tiffany’s. I thought the ring tied in well with the pink of my scrunchie and lipstick as well as the persona of the character I was portraying. I wished to create my own youthful take of stand-by accessories as well as channel the classic elegance of one of my very favorite actresses.

Sources Cited Letter from the Editor

By Annika Suderburg Maloney, Carolyn B. “The Economic Impact of the Fashion Industry.” Joint Economic Committee- United States Congress.

Where to Thrift

By Daniella Gersh “Buffalo Exchange San Diego, California | New and Recycled Clothing.” Buffalo Exchange New & Recycled Fashion®.

Edna. “Crossroads Trading Co. Los Angeles.” Citysearch, 20 Aug. 2015.

File:Magnolia Park American Way Thrift Store.jpg. Wikipedia. www.yourgoodwill.org. “Goodwill Store & Donation Center.” 2365 E Lincoln Hwy Langhorne, PA 19047.

Musicians and Fashion: Income and Exclusivity

By Galilea Garcia Friedman, Vanessa. “Kanye West Finally Gets His Fashion Right.” The New York Times, The New York Times, 1 Feb. 2018.

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“What Effect Has Kanye's Pablo Merch Had on Supplier Gildan?” The Fashion Law, 7 Dec. Williams, Janice. “Rihanna's Fenty Beauty Made How Much in One Month?!” Newsweek, 28 Oct. 2017.

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Mohan, Vishwa. “Across India, High Levels of Toxins in Groundwater - Times of India.” The Times of India, India, 31 July 2018.

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Gonzalez, Sebastian. “The Fashion Industry Is Seriously Damaging the Environment.” Guestlist, 2 Dec. 2015.

“Unravel the Health Effects of The World's Dirtiest River-Citarum River, Indonesia – INDOHUN.” INDOHUN. Silver and Gold: The Importance of Jewelry

By Lilly Sayenga “V&A · A History of Jewellery.” Introduction to 20th-Century Fashion, Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, South Kensington, London SW7 2RL. Telephone +44 (0)20 7942 2000. Email Vanda@Vam.ac.uk.

ROUGE Fall 2018