care

Clean all cabinet surfaces with a clean, soft, damp cloth and dry immediately with a clean, soft, dry cloth.

To maintain the beauty of your wood cabinets, simply care for them as you would any fine furniture. Lanz Cabinets uses state of the art ultraviolet-cured finishes and quality lacquers, which do not require wax. But, should you decide to wax your cabinets, use a wax that does not contains cleaners. Apply with a clean soft cloth and buff with a clean dry cloth.

Light cleaning Wipe the cabinet surfaces with a clean, soft, damp cloth and dry with a clean, dry cloth.

Heavier cleaning Mild soap and water may be used to clean oil, grease, or other material from wood surfaces. All soap residues should be rinsed by using a clean damp cloth. Immediately dry with a clean dry cloth.

Importance of drying Failure to dry your cabinet may result in finish damage and possible damage to the underlying wood.

Doors and cabinets with laminate or PET plastic surfaces are manufactured using materials that are designed for easy care. Years of service and beauty can be maintained by the following easy-care suggestions.

Light cleaning Clean all spills immediately using a clean soft cloth dampened with clean water, dry immediately.

Heavier cleaning Oils, grease and other soils that do not clean with water may be removed using a solution of mild soap and water. The surface should be rinsed immediately with a clean, damp cloth and dried thoroughly.

As with any working part, our hinges or drawer guides may become loose over time and therefore should be checked periodically and tightened as necessary.

These may be hidden using a touch-up furniture polish or marker on shallow scratches, or by using a color matching wood tone putty on deeper scratches or nicks. Buffing with a light coat of wax will aid in blending into the surrounding area.

Excessive moisture Quality furniture such as these cabinets cannot withstand constant washing or exposure to water. Avoid hanging dishtowels over doors or placing coffee makers where steam vents directly onto cabinet surfaces. Constant dampness next to dishwashers, sinks, and toe-kick areas can cause finish damage and possibly damage the underlying wood if not dried as it occurs. Immediately dry off any areas where water has spilled. Keep all surfaces dry.

Harsh Cleaning Agents Nitrogen-containing compounds, such as ammonia, can damage the finish of your cabinets. Avoid exposing your cabinets to these and other potential sources of nitrogencontaining agents: ammonia-based cleaners, polishes, and floor waxes. Do not wipe your cabinets with a dishcloth as it may contain soap, detergent, grease, or other household chemicals that may damage the cabinet finish. Avoid using detergents, strong soaps, or abrasive cleaners and pads, as they may be harmful to the finish.

Wax While spray waxes may temporarily increase the sheen of your cabinets, the build-up will eventually need to be removed. Removal may damage the finish. Do not use any wax on thermofoil doors or laminate surfaces.

Shelving When our cabinets are mounted by a Lanz Cabinet installer or mounted according to our instructions, each square foot of shelf will safely hold up to 25 pounds but not to exceed 450 pounds total weight per cabinet, when applied slowly, over five minutes.

Drawers The Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA) tests drawers and drawer guides with 15 pounds per square foot of drawer load and operates the drawer repeatedly (25,000 cycles) to test for durability and load handling capabilities. The drawers and guides we offer at Lanz Cabinets are designed to meet or exceed these specifications. Please see your chosen guide for actual details and limitations.

Concealed white plastic breadboards are non-porous which makes them safe for food handling. Designed to be washed in the dishwasher for cleaning and sanitizing. We recommend that you remove the breadboard from the dishwasher before the drying cycle to prevent the board from warping. Stand the board on end to dry. To avoid trapping moisture in the cabinet, make sure it is completely dry. For deeper cleaning, deodorizing, and whitening, make a paste made from equal parts of baking soda, salt, and water, and scrub.

For general cleaning of fresh spills use dish soap and a soft cloth, e.g., microfiber. Use glass or surface cleaner, along with a nonabrasive sponge, to remove stains.

Though quartz will resist permanent staining when exposed to liquids like wine, vinegar, tea, lemon juice, and soda, or fruits and vegetables, it’s important to wipe up spills immediately— before they have a chance to dry. Take care of fresh messes with mild dishwashing detergent and a soft cloth.

For dried spills or heavy stains, your best bet is a glass or surface cleaner, a nonabrasive sponge (sponges designed for nonstick pans are safe and effective), and a little elbow grease. Keep a plastic putty knife handy to gently scrape off gum, food, nail polish, paint, or other messes that harden as they dry.

Degreasing Removing cooking grease by using a degreasing product. Kitchen degreasers loosen and remove the grease from the quartz countertop surface. Follow the degreaser manufacturer’s instructions for use.

Permanent marker Marker stains can be removed by moistening a cloth with Goo Gone or a comparable product and rubbing it into the stain. Rinse thoroughly with warm water to remove any cleanser residue.

For best results, spray a generous amount of a nonabrasive surface cleaner over your countertop and let it sit for 10 minutes. Wipe away with a non-scratch sponge.

Abrasive, acid or alkaline cleaners, and scouring pads Avoid using cleaning products with any kind of acid or abrasive; they may cause discolorations or scratches and can dull the surface. If you need a stronger cleanser, make sure it is specifically designed for use on quartz. Avoid harsh cleaning solutions that are highly acidic or highly alkaline such as nail polish remover, turpentine, drain cleaner, and dishwasher rinsing agents. These chemicals can disintegrate the bonds between quartz and resin. Quartz will tolerate casual exposure to milder alkaline solutions, such as diluted bleach, but high-pH substances, such as oven cleaners and concentrated bleach, will damage the surface. If any of the substances mentioned above come into contact with your quartz countertop, rinse the exposed surface immediately and thoroughly with water.

Extreme heat Though quartz is heat- and scorch-resistant, the resin used in manufacturing quartz countertops is a plastic and therefore prone to melting in heat above 300° F. A sudden change in temperature or prolonged exposure to heat from a pan left on the countertop may even cause the quartz to crack. Always use a trivet or hot pad.

Slicing or dicing without a cutting board. Quartz is a hard surface, but not hard enough to withstand the effects of sharp objects like knives. So, slice and dice to your heart’s content, but make sure to do it on a cutting board to avoid ugly scratches on your quartz countertops.

Do not stand, kneel down on, or sit on your countertops, as they could crack or break.

A well-sealed granite countertop is relatively impervious to bacteria. Hot water and dish soap should be adequate for daily sanitizing. However, if a disinfectant is desired, reach for a bottle of 70% isopropyl alcohol. Spray it onto the granite, allow to sit for three to five minutes, and then rinse with water and dry with a clean microfiber or soft terry cloth towel to avoid streaking.

Soap Scum Dish soap won’t permanently damage your granite, but repeated use of soapy water will cause build-up and dull your countertop’s shine. Rinse with hot clean water on a regular basis and use a paper towel to dry. To remove soap residue and restore shine, spray 70% isopropyl alcohol onto your counters. Allow it to sit for three to five minutes, then rinse with water and dry with a clean microfiber cloth. Do not use lime removal products or cleaning products that contain ammonia, as this will affect the seal on the stone.

Stains Granite countertops are surprisingly resilient to stains like citric acid, coffee tea, alcohol, or wine, and virtually impossible to scratch. However, as a preventive measure, wipe up any spills quickly and do not let the liquid sit on the countertop overnight. For stubborn stains use dry steel wool grade 00, or a no-scratch Scotch Brite pad to try to remove them.

Oils Granite is most prone to staining by oil. Be careful not to place any pots or frying pans with oil traces on the bottom of the countertop surface. Blot oil and acid spills as soon as they happen, and clean with mild soap and warm water to avoid any harm to your countertops.

If the oil stains remain, a general poultice with baking soda and water is the best remedy. First, moisten the surface of the granite with the same liquid that made the paste. Then apply the poultice paste to the granite surface about ½" thick. Tape plastic sheeting over the poultice area, and allow it to sit for 48 hours. Remove the poultice with a spatula, rinse the cleaned area with clean water, wipe off excess water, and allow the surface to dry.

Chips Chips in granite are not a common occurrence. When they do happen, chips are most often caused by banging something into the edge of the countertop. Take care when you handle heavy pots and pans around your granite profiles as these are the most prone to cause chipping. If a chip does occur and you find the piece that chipped out, hold on to it. Most of the time it can be epoxied back into place. Do not stand, kneel down on, or sit on your countertops, as they could crack or break.

Extreme Heat Do not place hot pans or other objects directly on your countertops. This may cause discoloration (mainly in dark granites) and/or cracking. Always use a protective barrier between any hot object and granite such as trivet or mat.

Bleach and Ammonia-based cleaners High-pH substances, such as oven cleaners and concentrated bleach will affect the seal. If any of the substances mentioned above come into contact with your granite countertop, rinse the exposed surface immediately and thoroughly with water.

Many granites never need sealing. Perform the paper towel test to determine whether your granite needs to be sealed. Some types of granite never need sealing and adding sealer to these types will just make a mess. Soak an unprinted paper towel or a white cotton towel. Place the water-soaked towel on the counter and wait about 5 minutes. Is the area under the paper towel dark from the water soaking into the granite? If it is discolored, your granite needs to be sealed to resist waterbased spills and stains.

Try the solvent test to see if an oil stain will enter the granite. Simply dab some paint thinner on the countertop and leave for 5-l0 minutes. If, after you remove the stain, it doesn’t darken the stone, neither will an oily staining agent such as cooking oil. If it does go dark, you should use a solvent-based sealer to protect against oil-based stains.

If the granite goes dark with either water or paint thinner, then seal. If there is no color change alter testing with these two liquids, you do not really need a sealer on your granite countertop.