Auric Air – Explorer – Issue 3

Explorer ISSUE 3

Inflight magazine I www.auricair.com

Mafia Island MARINE PARK PARADISE

Serengeti's Small Five Size isn't everything

A Brush with Africa

The accidental artist

CONTENTS

14

11

Explorer Inflight magazine

20

28

FEATURES

REGULARS

8

3

Serengeti’s Small Five

Size isn’t everything

11

Mafia Island

The isle less travelled…

14 A brush with Africa

The accidental artist

16 Solar Power

Is solar energy a dim idea?

18 Judo in Tanzania

Ki o tsuke!

20 Rubondo Island

Magical green island is a ‘must visit’

22 Tilapia

INSIDE:

Great island, great lake, great eating and more

5 Foreword

From Deepesh Gupta

7

Explorer News

26 STAY: African Tulip Hotel 28 DRIVE: Hyundai Tucson 30 EAT: La Véranda 31 Travel information 32 Pilot’s eye view 33 Auric Air route map

Big idea from a small pond

24 Five reasons to visit Zanzibar

Beaches and spice and all things nice…

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INSIDE

Explorer Inflight magazine

Auric Air Services Ltd Mwanza Office PO Box 336, Mwanza Cell: +255 783 233 334; 255 736 200 849 Email: reservations@auricair.com Website: auric@auricair.com Explorer is published on behalf of Auric Air Services by: Land & Marine Publications Ltd

1 Kings Court, Newcomen Way Severalls Business Park, Colchester Essex CO4 9RA, United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com No part of the contents of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishers.

The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in accordance with existing legislation.

All advertisements and non-commissioned text are taken in good faith.

The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication.

No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions.

Printed by Jamana Printers Ltd. ©2016 Land & Marine Publications Ltd.

Great island, great lake, great eating and more

BY GARY GIMSON, PUBLISHER

W

elcome to the latest issue of ‘Explorer’, the in-flight magazine of Auric Air. In this issue, for our cover story, we travel to the delightfully unspoilt island of Mafia (to which Auric Air operates three times weekly) and find out what’s to see and do. We also find reasons to visit its larger sister, Zanzibar (or, more strictly speaking, Unguja).

Auric Air is renowned for flying its guests to some of Tanzania’s best game-rich wildlife reserves. So, as a change, we thought we would take a look at the Serengeti’s ‘small five’ – something to look for once you have ticked off the better-known big quintet.

We visit the water wonderland of Rubondo Island National Park in the south-west corner of Lake Victoria (a destination served three times a day by Auric Air). Home to the rare and semi-aquatic sitatunga antelope, the national park also contains a plentiful and tasty supply of tilapia fish – supplying the diet of the frisky yellow-spotted otters. And while on the subject of tilapia, ‘Explorer’ investigates the farming of this popular fish.

Cover

Mafia Island

IN THIS ISSUE:

The small five

Size isn't everything in the Serengeti

Meanwhile, we highlight the merits of solar power and its apparent advantages for East Africa. And for those interested in self-defence, we look at the growing popularity of judo – Japan’s gift to the world of sport.

We stay at the highly recommended African Tulip in Arusha.

And if you like tapas, then we dine out at La Véranda in Dar. The subject of our car review is the fabulous new Hyundai Tuscan – small sibling to the marque’s Santa Fe – providing off-road capability at an affordable price.

Solar power

Is solar energy a dim idea?

We hope you enjoy reading ‘Explorer’. Please write to me if you have any comments about the magazine.

Gary Gimson Publisher, Land & Marine Publications Ltd

Zanzibar

Beaches and spice and all things nice…

Email: publishing@landmarine.com ■

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FOREWORD

Welcome to the third issue of Explorer

BY DEEPESH GUPTA, COMMERCIAL MANAGER, AURIC AIR

I

t gives me great pleasure to welcome passengers to the third issue of our regular in-flight magazine, ‘Explorer’. I hope that you find our magazine of interest and that it makes your flight with Auric Air more enjoyable.

In addition, earlier this year we were honoured to receive the award for Tanzania’s Leading Domestic Safari Carrier at the prestigious World Travel Awards. This wouldn’t be possible without the excellent Auric Air team and each and every one of our passengers.

Auric Air continues to develop as an airline as we buy additional aircraft, launch new routes and increase the frequencies of others.

I hope you enjoy your flight with Auric Air. If you have any comments to make about our in-flight magazine or our service, please write to me at the email address right.

In fact, we now fly to over 30 destinations across Tanzania and beyond, utilising our fleet of 12 Cessna Grand Caravans.

Email: dgupta@auricair.com ■

Deepesh Gupta Commercial Manager Auric Air Services Ltd

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AURIC AIR NEWS

News AURIC AIR WIN AT WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS

Tanzania's Leading Domestic Safari Carrier

WATCH VIDEO

Auric Air was crowned Tanzania’s Leading Domestic Safari Carrier at the World Travel Awards Africa & Indian Ocean Gala Ceremony in Zanzibar in April, beating off stiff competition from four other airlines. Accepting the award, Deepesh Gupta, the airline’s business development manager, said: “We want to be the best safari and corporate airline and this is a huge stand-up of our approach to transform our product and services. I’d like to thank every member of the Auric Air team and each of our passengers. You have had a huge part to play in winning this award.” The World Travel Awards are annual ceremonies held to celebrate the best in travel and tourism across the world.

AURIC AIR CONTACT DETAILS

GET CONNECTED

MWANZA OFFICE

You can keep in contact with Auric Air online at:

Auric Air Services Ltd PO Box 336, Mwanza Cell: +255 783 233 334; 255 736 200 849 Email: reservations@auricair.com; auric@auricair.com

DAR ES SALAAM OFFICE

Auric Air Services Ltd Office 17, 2nd Floor, Viva Towers 294/295 Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, Dar es Salaam Tel: (Dar Airport) +255 (0)688 937 165 Tel: (Town Office) +255 (0)688 937 166 Cell: +255 (0)784 749 769 Email: auric@auricair.com

www.auricair.com www.facebook.com/auricair www.instagram.com/auricair www.twitter.com/auricair

ARUSHA OFFICE

Auric Air Services Ltd TFA Arusha Shopping Centre (Nakumatt) Opposite Kilombero Market Office No 19, West Wing, Arusha Cell: +255 (0)688 723 274 Email: arusha@auricair.com

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SERENGETI'S SMALL FIVE

Serengeti’s Small Five

Size isn’t everything S

potting the Big Five on a game drive is a thrill for

Antlion Not quite as majestic or pretty as its larger namesake, the antlion is a small brown-grey insect that inhabits the Serengeti. The name is said to refer to the antlion’s predatory nature, as it preys on ants. It is also known as the doodlebug because of the patterns it makes in the sand while looking for a suitable place to dig a pit. Before they reach adulthood, the antlion larvae are small creatures with oversized

Elephant shrew

any safari enthusiast and

Serengeti National Park is the perfect place to see all five – elephant, rhino, leopard, lion and buffalo.

In addition, though, the national park is home to a lesser-known heads. When mature, they resem-

collection: the Small Five. They may be harder to spot than their larger namesakes, but it’s definitely worth taking a closer look at these small (and in some cases tiny) inhabitants of the Serengeti.

The elephant shrew and the African elephant have little in common except, perhaps their distinguishing facial feature. Elephants have a trunk and the elephant shrew has a long nose, which is presumably where it got its name.

Interestingly, though, research has shown that elephant shrews are actually more closely related to elephants than ordinary shrews, despite seeming to have little in common.

These tiny inhabitants of the Serengeti are only about 150 mm long, but can run at speeds of up to 29 km per hour, making them one of the fastest small mammals on the planet.

Elephant shrews tend to hide in undergrowth, making them hard to spot, but all the more rewarding when you find one. They eat mainly insects, spiders and worms, using their noses to find food in their local surroundings.

8

ble dragonflies. Adult antlions tend to be active in the evenings, while the younger ones are easier to spot during the day.

The type of antlions found in the Serengeti (genus Palpares) are larger than their American counterparts, with the adult wingspan reaching up to 16 cm. Antlion larvae use their pits to catch prey by creating a sloped pit in which passing creatures will fall when the sand is disturbed. They fall into the pit and are soon devoured by the antlions.

They may be harder to spot than their larger namesakes, but it’s definitely worth taking a closer look Leopard tortoise

Buffalo weaver The last of our Small Five is, in fact, a bird – the buffalo weaver. There are two main types, the white-headed and the red-billed, both of which can be seen in the Serengeti. The whiteheaded buffalo weaver appears to be

Rhinoceros beetle The rhinoceros beetle shares one obvi-

The largest of our Small Five is the

ous feature with its namesake: a horn.

leopard tortoise, so-called because

The male rhino beetle has a horn on

of the leopard-like spots on its shell.

its head that it uses to fight off other

Leopard turtles are the world’s fourth-

males and also for digging. There are

largest species of tortoise, measuring

various types of rhinoceros (or horned)

up to 460 mm in length and weigh-

beetle, including the Hercules and

ing about 18 kg. There have been

Atlas. Both male and female rhino

reports of leopard tortoises measuring

beetles are protected by tough body

as much as 700 mm in length. They

armour to deter predators as well as

can live up to 100 years and they

having thick wings that allow them to

are commonly found in eastern and

fly with relative ease.

southern Africa, including Serengeti National Park.

Leopard tortoises are herbivorous,

selves from predators.

Their domed shells offer protection

Rhino beetles have

from predators and environmental

become popular as pets

threats. These tortoises can move

because they are

relatively quickly on their trunk-like

small and easy

legs and even navigate tricky terrain as

to care for.

to survive well in the wild, with large populations reported across eastern and southern Africa.

It also has an orange-red rump and a conical black beak. These birds follow buffalo around, picking up the insects disturbed by them, which is presumably where the bird’s name comes from.

Buffalo weavers forage for insects, fruit and seeds in the undergrowth of

their home among fallen leaves

fallen fruit from the trees high above.

are also bred in captivity, they tend

white face and body and black wings.

on fruit, nectar and sap. They make and in logs to protect them-

underwater. While leopard tortoises

easier to spot because of its striking

The beetles are herbivorous, living

feeding on grass and scrub as well as

well as climbing vertically and moving

more common, however, and much

the Serengeti, usually in small groups with other weavers or starlings. Male and female buffalo weavers build nests together when mating by pushing materials together to form a large oval nest where the chicks are born. Another giveaway characteristic of the buffalo weaver is its parrot-like call, often loud and repetitive.

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MAFIA ISLAND

Mafia Island

The isle less travelled…

I

n the Zanzibar archipelago, off the coast of Tanzania, lies Mafia Island.

Before images of gun-toting,

cigar-smoking gangsters come to mind, Mafia Island has nothing to do with the actual Mafia; its name is said to be derived from either a Swahili phrase meaning ‘healthy dwelling place’ or the Arabic word for ‘archipelago’. Mafia is an island idyll with one of the best marine parks in Africa.

Get away from it all with a trip to Mafia Island

›

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MAFIA ISLAND

Just a boat or plane ride away from mainland Tanzania, the island is set in its own archipelago of islands, some of which are inhabited and some not. Mafia is the biggest of these islands, 49 km long and 17 km wide. It is known for its outstanding marine life, while its landward features are equally exotic, with tropical mango and cashew trees as well as monkeys, lemurs, dwarf hippos and wild pigs.

Unlike neighbouring Zanzibar – and, to an extent, Pemba Island –Mafia sees a relatively low number of tourists. Many people, local residents and visitors alike, see this as a positive thing. The island is still rather unknown, yet offers so much to those who do visit. The low number of tourists ensures that Mafia remains as ISLAND LIFE

From baby turtles to bright blue waters to endless beaches

unchanged as possible, offering a true piece of paradise for visitors and leaving residents happy that their island is not being spoilt by tourism.

Marine park Mafia Island Marine Park is Tanzania’s first marine park, embracing the Rufiji River Delta and Mafia Channel and covering a total area of about 1,500 sq km. The park’s marine ecosystem is exceptional, with prime examples of estuarine, mangrove and coral reef. The park is home to two endangered species: the dugong and the sea turtle. Whale sharks are common in the waters off Kilindoni, in the west of

KILINDONI The island capital, Kilindoni, is more bustling than the laid-back beach resorts. A key feature of the town is the market, where local people sell their produce, including fresh fish, spices and vegetables. The island’s airstrip and harbour are located at Kilindoni as well as a handful of small hotels and cafés.

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the island between October and March,

WHERE TO STAY

and visitors can experience swimming with these, the world’s largest fish, or just observe them from a boat. Visitors will find an abundance of fish, including blue, black and striped marlin, barracuda, red snapper and kingfish.

Diving The large reef system of the marine park has made it a paradise for diving and snorkelling enthusiasts. The Chole Bay area takes centre stage, with over 50 sq km of marine life. Thanks to its location, Chole

Kinasi Lodge

Chole Mjini Lodge

Located at Chole Bay in the south of the island, Kinasi Lodge is the place to stay for those looking to explore the marine park. It has 14 en-suite rooms and a range of amenities and facilities including spa services, a pool, child care services and a business centre. Each room is distinctive, offering either beautiful sea views or a view over the lush gardens.

Over on Chole Island is the renowned Chole Mjini Lodge, built

by Anne and Jean de Villiers and consisting of seven tree houses.

Guests can relax in rustic luxury and experience barefoot bliss.

Suitable for divers and non-divers alike, it offers plenty of activities and excursions. Hosts Anne and Jean are on hand to ensure an unforgettable time for guests.

Lua Cheia

Pole Pole

In the north of the island is Lua Cheia, an eco-friendly beach camp on a large stretch of private beach.

Its six large tents can accommodate up to 12 people, adding to the intimate feel of the camp. A 3 km stretch of beautiful beach lies in front of the camp, with crystal-clear waters suitable for swimming all year round.

Often considered one of the world’s most exclusive eco-resorts, Pole Pole has seven bungalows in a serene environment. The resort prides itself on its low environmental impact, without compromising on luxury, comfort and style. An excellent choice for those looking to explore the nearby marine life.

Bay avoids the annual monsoon winds, so diving can take place all year round, in contrast with equivalent destinations in Kenya and Zanzibar.

The shallow waters allow beginners to practise diving or snorkelling before heading out further into the deeper waters, where octopus, dolphin, shark and other species can be found.

Island activities If you don’t like getting your feet wet, Mafia Island also caters for those who prefer to stay put. The island is great for walking or cycling or for ‘road safaris’ to other parts of the island. Many of the island’s lodges and camps offer day trips in the local area, including nearby villages, with opportunities to view the magnificent bird and animal life.

Excursions to other islands in the archipelago are worthwhile, too, with Chole Island a popular choice. Visitors can enjoy a secluded picnic or barbecue at various places on Mafia and the surrounding islands, including Mange Island, a pristine sandbank surrounded by wonderful coral reefs.

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A BRUSH WITH AFRICA

Wildlife painter discovered a new style when he spilt his tea

artist The accidental

BY KIRSTEN ALEXANDER

Tanzanian-born artist Simon Stevenson is known for his beautiful depiction of some of Africa’s most iconic creatures, from magnificent elephants to curious gorillas to sleek cheetahs. Simon spoke to ‘Explorer’ about growing up on the slopes of Kilimanjaro, teaching himself to draw and evolving as an artist.

B

orn near Moshi, on

he had never formally trained as an

that ‘accident’ I experimented with

the slopes of Mount

artist. “I am totally self-taught,” says

tea mixed with ochre and charcoal.

Kilimanjaro, Simon

Simon. “In 2000 I decided to take a

The colour of the stain on the paper,

Stevenson had an idyllic child-

sabbatical and bought a book on

mixed with ochre, was to me the

hood, waking up to views of the

how to paint. That was the start of a

colour of Africa.”

mountain each morning.

new career. I am still learning.”

His interest in the landscape and

Recently, however, Simon began

Stylistically, Simon began using

to experiment with style and

wildlife of Africa began as a child.

a combination of tea and dry ochre

introduced the medium of chalk and

“From the age of four I would look

to evoke the colours of Africa in his

charcoal – a contrast to his earlier

beyond the boundaries of the

work. He found that a wide range of

garden at the bush animals from a

warm hues could be achieved using

large mango tree,” he says. “Here, at

the two materials, creating depth

the age of six, I spotted my first leop-

and nostalgia. This unusual combina-

ard, which had come to drink at the

tion has proved highly successful for

river boundary. Little did I know at

Simon, leading to some outstand-

that stage that I was actually sitting

ing works of art. He first uses tea

in its larder.”

to ‘wash’ the canvas and build a

Simon began exploring the

background, then layers on ochre

national reserves close to his home

paste to add detail and create the

in Tanzania and these subjects later

desired effect.

became the basis of his pictures.

He moved to England in 1979 but

This unusual method came about completely by accident, says Simon.

it wasn’t until many years later that

“Using tea as a medium was the

his childhood nostalgia began to

result of an overbalanced mug of tea

manifest itself on paper – although

that spilt on my first picture. From

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DRAGON'S TAIL

Simon perfecting one of his chalk and charcoal works

works, but dealing with the same subject, the African landscape and its wildlife. In a similar way to his

tea-and-ochre work, the chalk and

Simon’s work is so popular

charcoal technique was not exactly

that many lodges across Tanzania

planned, says Simon.

and even in Rwanda have begun displaying his finished pieces. They

Chalk and charcoal

include Sanctuary Saadani Safari

“The development in 2012 of my chalk

in Tanzania, and Sabyinyo Silverback

and charcoal images came from my

Lodge in Rwanda.

impatience one day whilst waiting for

AFRICA

The main influence for Simon's works of art

Lodge and Sanctuary Swala Lodge www.abrushwithafrica.com ■

Even if you have not been

a painting to dry. I started to sketch

lucky enough

using chalk on black paper to play

to visit one of

with back light on an animal sketch

these excellent

and found that I liked the effect.”

lodges, you can

This change in technique and

always view and

materials created a whole new style

purchase examples

for Simon, enabling him to portray

of Simon’s work at his

the same animals in a different way

website, above right.

from his tea-and-ochre pictures.

The result is a collection of simple but thoughtful images that capture a moment of beauty. One of his most recent chalk and charcoal images, ‘The Dragon’s Tail’, shows a cheetah looking down tenderly at a dragonfly.

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SOLAR POWER

Is solar energy

a dim idea You would think that with lots of sunshine, intermittent electrical supplies and high energy charges, East Africa would be clamouring for solar energy. But you would be wrong. So why is there a reluctance across the region to use solar energy on any meaningful scale? Gary Gimson reports.

T

here is something

excess energy into their respective

policy-makers. The only exception

of a mystery about the

national grids. At these northern lati-

is South Africa. The 96 megawatt

near-absence of solar

tudes, the pure economics of these

Jasper solar farm near Kimberley is

panels is often open to question.

Africa’s largest solar power project to

few fancy camps that trade on

But certain areas of Africa have

date. It is claimed to provide enough

their eco-credentials, a smat-

three times the sunshine of northern

power (only when the sun shines, of

tering of green-tinged consum-

Europe. In fact, parts of Tanzania

course) for some 80,000 homes.

ers and some NGO-funded

have some of the world’s highest

micro schemes, it has yet to be

levels of solar irradiance, with over

harnessed on a continent-wide

2,400 kilowatt-hours per square

basis. Instead, its use is small-

metre per year compared with

By contrast, East African govern-

scale and nearly always off-grid.

cloudy northern Europe, where 700

ments have been slow to encour-

to 800 kWh per square metre is more

age solar power and Kenya has

usual.

tentatively backed wind energy. It

power in Africa. Apart from a

By contrast, in many parts of notso-sunny northern Europe there is a proliferation of often ugly – and

16

For the time being, the African

Future needs

is argued that state-owned energy

subsidy-hungry – rooftop solar

solar energy market is consumer-led

companies tend to favour big

panels, all (in theory) feeding back

rather than being driven by national

power projects with big solutions

on polluting diesel generators.

Solar panels can be expensive to install and interest rates on any loans to buy panels can be eye-wateringly high. Both can reduce any cost

‘…parts of Tanzania have over 2,400 kilowatt-hours per square metre per year’

advantages associated with ‘free’ solar energy.

But the Williamson Tea scheme,

renewables adopters require back-up

and others like it, are not on-grid

by more conventional generator

projects that will benefit mwananchi.

systems: a duplication that can prove

In Tanzania, for example, only about

too costly for many.

10 per cent of the population has access to mains electricity, so finding

Renewable

a cost-effective method of providing energy to the masses is vital; and

What’s more, not everyone thinks

solar power may, indeed, provide an

that solar power – and renewable

answer.

energy in general – is such a great

Some solar developers are looking

idea. “Why is renewable energy

to set up large solar photovoltaics

such a total fail?” asks the UK-based

for a nation’s future needs. And up

(PV) projects in East Africa; but so far,

super-sceptic writer James Deling-

until now solar has been too small,

according to a recent report, it is not

pole. “Because,” he goes on “it’s so

too individual and seen as a purely

clear whether this can be a cost-

ludicrously inefficient and impossibly

consumer-driven, off-grid option.

efficient solution.

expensive that if ever we were so

It’s something more than

As in the case of wind energy, the

this, though. Solar power is also

sun doesn’t always shine and is obvi-

supported by business. Companies,

ously not available at night, so these

often in the agricultural sector, are investing in solar power for reasons

BRIGHT IDEA

Could solar energy be an option for Africa?

foolish as to try rolling it out on a scale beyond its current boutique levels, it would necessitate bankrupting the global economy.”

In Africa, however, there are differ-

of self-interest and to improve conti-

ent arguments for and against. It’s

nuity of supply. For example, William-

not just about cost. It’s more about

son Tea, a family-owned business

regularity of supply; and in remote

for over 140 years, has built its own

rural areas it is also about gaining at

1 MW solar farm in Tinderet, western

least some access to electrical power.

Kenya. The company believed its

It sure beats sitting in the dark.

solar panels would cut its electricity bills while reducing its heavy reliance ■

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JUDO IN TANZANIA

! e k u s t Ki o Tanzania’s judo fans go to the mat

Everyone knows that soccer is the world’s most popular sport. But which sport is ranked number two globally? Well, in terms of the sheer number of participants, the answer is – perhaps surprisingly – judo. And one of the nations where the sport has made huge strides in recent years is Tanzania.

Kate Wingar reports.

A

fter an erratic history, judo has

skill that had arguably the biggest impact.

secured its place as a major

Judoka found employment with the military

for judo in Tanzania. Since 1995

Tanzanian sport. So what has

and this, in turn, attracted many young men

we have strived to promote the sport

to the sport. As soldiers began to practise

in this country and lead the national team

judo in the army clubs, others followed and

to compete and win in international tourna-

after independence in the early 1960s, judo

the nation as a whole was eager to take up

ments. It’s through providing adequate

went from strength to strength and judoka

judo.

training environments, developing teaching

changed to make Tanzanians ‘judo mad’?

As one of the first sports established

“JATA is the main organisation

(practisers of judo) began to enter interna-

The Judo Association of Tanzania (JATA)

systems and improving the quality of train-

tional tournaments. The national team won

has played a key role in the sport’s popular-

ing that we hope judo will continue to grow

medals, leading to ever more publicity and

ity, as general secretary Innocent J. Mallya

in Tanzania.”

media support.

explains:

By using local trainers and coaches, JATA has helped integrate judo

International teachers As a major sport, judo drew senior Black Belt trainers and international teachers to Tanzania. Their knowledge encouraged many to try something new, leading to an upsurge of new judoka.

But it was the introduction of judo to the Tanzanian army as a self-defence

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into schools, regional youth centres and district clubs nationwide. This has developed young

How it began The first organised venture was in 1970 when a judo club inspired by a German businessman was opened at the Kilimanjaro Hotel in Dar es Salaam. In 1980 a new club was launched in Dar’s Mnazi Mmoja by a Japanese visitor.

In 1990 the nation’s first Black Belt, Dudley Mawala, opened a judo and karate club at the YMCA in Dar. Teachers from all over the world joined the club and encouraged new judokas.

The Kariakoo Judo Club was founded in Zanzibar by Japanese

Hajime!

Judo is one of the world's top sports

mats) throughout the country, there is a desperate need for more permanent dojo (judo halls) and financial support. Tanzanian athletes still have a long way to go before

winning medals at international

A milestone was reached in 1995 with the setting up of the Judo Association of Tanzania.

Over subsequent years, Tanzanian judoka have competed in major competitions in Africa and around the world and won several gold, silver and bronze medals.

JUDO PHRASES Atemi waza: Striking techniques

they can truly make a mark on the world of

Dan: Black Belt ranking

judo.

Goshin jutsu: Art of self-defence Hajime: Begin

athletes with a talent into national judo champions,

enthusiast Shimaoka Tsuyoshi in 1993. That same year, a silver and two bronze medals were won by Tanzanian judoka at the Eastern and Southern Judo Championship in Harare.

So what next?

Hiza: Knee Judogi: Judo practice uniform

games such as the All-Africa Games, the

Despite a lack of financial stability, one

Commonwealth Games and the Olympics.

thing is certain – interest in the sport is

At the 2014 Glasgow Commonwealth

keener than ever. As long as the passion

Ki o tsuke: Attention

Games, Tanzania had a record seven

is there, Tanzania will go on producing

Kyoshi: Instructor

athletes competing for the title of judo

talented home-grown judo athletes.

Mate: Stop, wait

champion.

So if you have a secret yearning to

It’s not all roses, however. A lack of funding for judo in Tanzania has made it hard to develop talent and organise events.

With just eight active clubs and 58 tatami (judo

become a Black Belt, why not register at your local club, find your nearest dojo, pick up a judogi (uniform) and tatami, and start practising.

Judoka: One who studies judo

Nage: Throw Obi: Judo belt Sensei: Teacher, instructor Shiai: Contest Sore made: Finished, time up Tatami: Mat

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RUBONDO ISLAND

Magical green island is a ‘must visit’ T

ucked away in the

to explore the green island of Lake

ing area for travellers. Otherwise,

south-west corner

Victoria?

it is more or less untouched, with

of Lake Victoria, the world’s

Largely uninhabited by people –

about 80 per cent of the island

second-largest lake, Rubondo

apart from researchers, wardens and

covered in thick forest. Its shores

Island National Park is a hidden

staff and guests at the island’s only

are fringed by beaches, swamps

gem featuring dense forest,

lodge – the national park is a haven

and rocky areas, providing a diver-

wildlife, birdlife and more.

of untouched forest dominated by

sity of habitats for wildlife. While

its wildlife and birdlife. In the course

the beaches look lovely, visitors

offer daily scheduled flights from

of the year, few visitors set foot on

are not allowed to swim in the lake

Mwanza to the Rubondo airstrip.

the island compared with other

because of the danger from croco-

So why not take the opportunity

wildlife hot spots across Tanzania.

diles and hippos.

Auric Air is the only airline to

So the national park remains largely exciting for those who make the

Famous

effort to explore one of Tanzania’s

Rubondo Island is famous for

best-kept secrets.

its population of chimpanzees,

how nature intended – all the more

The island is about 28 km long

20

which were introduced to the

and 10 km across at its widest

island between 1966 and 1969 by

point. It is Tanzania’s only national

Prof Bernhard Grzimek, a German

park in the 67,000 sq km lake. The

zoologist. Originally, 16 chimps

island has a small airstrip, served

were introduced to four areas of

daily by Auric Air, and a small wait-

the island and were studied over

Images courtesy of Asilia Africa

birdlife is particularly impressive, too, with hundreds of species including the African grey parrot and African fish eagle.

Beautiful The island’s only lodge is the Asilia Africa Rubondo Island Camp, which opened in June 2013. This, however, is a camp like no other, with a beautiful lakeside location, eco-friendly design and, of course, the only

In the course of the year, few visitors set foot on the island compared with other wildlife hot spots

time to see how they adapted from

accommodation for miles around.

their previous lives in captivity

There are just eight rooms on site,

to their new environment. The

helping to keep the island in as much

project was a success and numbers

of a natural state as possible. From

have increased to about 40 wild

here, guests can embark on forest

chimps across the island. The

walks, game drives, fishing (includ-

chimps are still getting used to

ing for Nile Perch) and boat trips – or

human encounters, however, so

simply enjoy the peace and quiet of

the chances of seeing them while

this intimate location.

visiting is low until they get used to human company and can be integrated better into the island’s forests.

Other inhabitants of interest

AURIC AIR SCHEDULE MWANZA TO RUBONDO

are the spotted-neck otters that

Depart 08.45 and arrive 09.15

laze around the shores as well as

Depart 13.00 and arrive 13.30

bushbuck, vervet monkey, giraffe,

Depart 17.30 and arrive 18.00

hippo, elephant and more. The rare swamp-dwelling sitatunga is

RUBONDO TO MWANZA

an exciting sight on the shoreline,

Depart 10.20 and arrive 10.50

while many types of butterfly

Depart 14.15 and arrive 14.45

inhabit the forest. The island’s ■

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21

TILAPIA

Big idea from a small pond Thousands of farmers across Tanzania are involved in smallscale farming of tilapia fish. It benefits not only farmers but also local communities, as in the Babati project in northern Tanzania.

But aquaculture has a long way to go before it can impact the national economy.

T

he aquaculture industry

in Tanzania, says the FAO, but there

is dominated by freshwater

are widespread concerns about its

fish farming. And Tanzania

potential environmental and socio-

– according to the United Nations

economic impact.

Food and Agriculture Organiza-

In recent years seaweed farming

tion (FAO) – has a vast but as yet

has become popular in some coastal

untapped potential in this sector.

areas as a source of income. Small-

Typically, it involves small-scale

scale seaweed farms –some of them

farmers working fish ponds with an

run by groups of women and young

average size of 150 square metres.

people – can be found all along the

The fish farming is integrated with

coast of Tanzania. Seaweed is now

other agricultural activities such

a serious cash crop in Tanga and

as gardening and animal and bird

Zanzibar, generating enough income

production on small pieces of land.

to cover household costs.

Tanzania is currently estimated to

The government’s Fisheries

have a total of 14,100 freshwater fish

Division has studied the viability of

ponds scattered across the mainland.

expanding aquaculture by diversify-

In addition, there is a large rainbow

ing production into other species

trout farm in Arusha.

and developing the export market.

TILAPIA

Farming fish in Tanzania

The distribution of fish ponds is determined by availability of water, suitable land for fish farming and awareness and motivation within the community of the economic potential of fish farming.

IMPORTANT FISH Tilapia is the common name for nearly 100 species of cichlid fish.

of the world – is still in the experi-

This mainly freshwater species has become the third most important fish in aquaculture after carp and salmon worldwide.

mental phase in Tanzania. It has the

Tilapia has been farmed in Tanzania since 1949.

Shrimp farming – which has proved very profitable in other parts

potential to be a profitable activity

22

GRASSROOTS CHARITY The Livingstone Tanzania Trust is a grassroots charity that supports community and education-focused projects. It works with communities in the Babati District of the Manyara Region of northern Tanzania.

LTT helps members of the local community by sponsoring their enterprise initiatives, providing skills training and resources.

The charity works closely with schools development committees and other stakeholders to target the specific needs of each school.

Exports of seaweed are on an

LTT has fish ponds at three

upward trend, but the vast potential

locations. Two of the ponds are at

for mariculture is largely untapped,

Waangwaray Primary School, on the

according to the FAO. There has

slopes of Mount Kwaraa, and now

not yet been any move to integrate

provide the school with an income.

aquaculture with other sectors such

Sustainable fish farming on the

as the environment because the

side of a mountain? Yet, for those

industry is still at subsistence level.

with access to local springs, it has proved a viable source of income. In

Project on a mountain

fact, one young man is supporting

A project run by the Livingstone

sale of fish.

Tanzania Trust (LTT) in the Babati

himself through college from the Early experimental designs proved

District in the north of the country is

that brick and cement ponds are the

a good example of how tilapia farm-

most cost-effective because they

ing can benefit a local community.

retain the water and last longer than plastic sheeting.

Once built, the ponds fill with algae, which keep the water cool, inject oxygen into the water and hide the fish from the watchful eyes of passing birds of prey. The algae are good for the fish’s diet and increase their levels of fatty acid, which is good for us when we eat them.

People in the community rarely get to eat meat and this source of protein is in great demand.

At the end of each year, the ponds can be emptied and the mud, fish waste, dead baby fish and rich water are used to enrich the local soil, which has proved ideal for growing tomatoes.

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VISIT ZANZIBAR

Five reasons to visit Zanzibar

Beaches and spice

and all things nice…

Z

anzibar has it all: an exciting

the most popular beaches on the

culture, miles of beautiful

island, and it’s not hard to see why.

beaches, fabulous food and

Although it is a popular tourist spot,

stunning scenery.

2

Superb Stone Town

For a real taste of Zanzibar’s herit-

with a number of hotels nearby, the

age, navigate your way through the

This enchanting island, known

beach remains in excellent condi-

labyrinthine streets of Stone Town,

locally as Unguja, is a favourite desti-

tion, while the calm waters of the

the old part of Zanzibar City, which

nation for many. And with Auric Air

azure-coloured ocean are irresistibly

gives an insight into the lives of local

operating regular flights to Zanzibar,

enticing. A little way down the east

people. You may well get lost (in a

why wouldn’t you want to visit East

coast is Matemwe. Until recently

Africa’s spice island?

it was virtually unpopulated, but

In case you need any more persua-

people are starting to discover the

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

No trip to Zanzibar is complete without visiting the markets

good way) among the narrow alleys with their fascinating architecture and intricately carved doors like

sion, here are our top five reasons for

potential of this beautiful spot.

visiting Zanzibar.

Further south there is Pongwe,

1

a small fee if you prefer. There are

where the popular Pongwe Beach

lots of things to see in Stone Town,

Brilliant beaches

Hotel offers good accommodation

including the Old Fort and the Palace

next to the beach. In the south of

Museum. The Anglican Cathedral,

Zanzibar is lined with great beaches,

the island, the sleepy fishing village

on the site of the old slave market, is

and you won’t have to travel far to

of Kizimkazi is one of the best places

a poignant reminder of an impor-

find one to suit you. Starting from

if you’re looking for a secluded,

tant part of the island’s history. The

the north, there is Nungwi, one of

untouched stretch of beach.

Darajani Bazaar is a large market

24

no other. Guides are available for

5

a salad or with cassava. The Zanzibar pizza is legendary, although not your typical pizza. You will find vendors

As an East African centre of culture,

at Forodhani Gardens offering this

Zanzibar is home to one of the

delicacy, made from fried dough and

region’s largest cultural events, the

filled with basically anything you like

Zanzibar International Film Festival.

– meat, vegetables, fish etc – then

Attended by thousands of people

folded into a rectangle and served.

Naturally, spices play a big part in Zanzibari cuisine. Dishes such as biryani and pilau are a ‘must try’ with authentic Indian-influenced flavours.

For more formal dining, the famous Rock Restaurant has a unique location with unforgettable views.

4

Great hotels

Centre of culture

from all over the world, this hugely STONE TOWN

Get lost in the labyrinthine streets of Zanzibar's capital

popular event features screenings of the best local and international films as well as musical concerts, workshops and more. Now in its 19th year, the festival is expanding year on year to bring more and more people together to celebrate the arts. Zanzibar is also home to

From high-end splendour to backpacker retreats, Zanzibar offers an impressively wide range of accommodation. As a popular place for luxury getaways, it naturally offers a whole range of five-star beach resorts including the Zanzi Resort, The Palms and The Z Hotel. Many of

‘…the narrow alleys with their fascinating architecture and intricately carved doors like no other’

the best resorts are on the coast, but frequented by local people and tourists alike, where you can find everything from fresh meat to clothing to fruit and vegetables. Our top tip is to buy some spices while you’re here, because they are often cheaper and of better quality than elsewhere on the island.

3

there is also an impressive selection of lodgings in Stone Town. Check in at the Emerson Spice for a magical night in a boutique setting, or try the Jafferji House and Spa for elegant luxury and a fascinating heritage. For the more cash-conscious, Pumzika Beach Resort is a low-cost but highly praised lodging in Makunduchi, while the Warere Town House in

Good food

It’s no surprise that an island with such a name for spice production should have a reputation for excellent food. The combination of Zanzibar’s heritage and with the availability of excellent fresh ingredients has let to an exciting local cuisine.

A firm favourite here is octopus,

Stone Town is a central hotel with budget-friendly prices. the Sauti za Busara music festival, which unfortunately did not go ahead in 2015 due to a shortage of funding. The festival is looking set to return in 2017 however, which will be welcomed by music fans across Africa and the world.

which you will find served in a curry, ■

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25

STAY: AFRICAN TULIP HOTEL

Old-world comfort in an ideal city location I t’s rare to find a boutique hotel

that offers a genuine and authentic

BY KATE WINGAR

African experience. Combine this

with passionate staff, a quiet location

a wonder they fit through the door. But at

and a relaxed atmosphere and you have

least you can’t argue about who takes up

the African Tulip hotel.

the most space or who wanders over to the

Located in the calm suburbs of Arusha, yet just five minutes’ drive from the city centre with its shops and restaurants, the African Tulip opened in 2008. Since then, the word has spread about its comfortable rooms, (extremely) large beds and courtyard pool. Despite the hype, it doesn’t disappoint.

Rustic A sense of ‘old Africa’ merged with modern personal touches makes this hotel an Arusha favourite. With its dark beams, old wood and rustic shades of orange and brown, the African Tulip is wonderfully decorated to create a home away from home. Guests can choose from a variety of Indian food in the hotel restaurant, or unwind with a drink (or two) in the Zanzibar Lounge.

With just a few rooms, travellers really do gain a personal experience. Each room comes with modern en-suite facilities and a beautiful bay window, so there’s no excuse for not finishing that book that has now gathered dust. However, the most striking aspect of the rooms are the beds; for such a small hotel, they are incredibly large. It’s

26

other’s side.

The African Tulip is the perfect base for those brave enough to take on the mighty

STAY: AFRICAN TULIP

A sense of ‘old Africa’ merged with modern personal touches AFRICAN TULIP

Personal touches make this boutique hotel a winner

Mount Kilimanjaro. But it’s also an excellent retreat for business guests who want to put their feet up in a cosy environment after a long day of meetings. Whether you’re by the pool or in the bar, you’re guaranteed a peaceful stay with top-notch service while surrounded by African culture.

INFORMATION For more information about African Tulip Hotel and a full list of the accommodation and tours that they offer, head to their website: www.theafricantulip.com ■

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DRIVE: HYUNDAI TUCSON

Classy new SUV

will broaden your horizons

BY GARY GIMSON

T

here are any number of

three different diesels form part of

sub-compact SUVs on the

the line-up. The car comes in both

expensive Premium SE. So if you are already driving a

market and many of them, while

2x4 and 4x4 variants, with Hyundai

Toyota RAV4, Nissan Qashqai or

worthy, are much of a muchness.

expecting to shift many more two-

Honda CR-V then you might like

But this one really caught my eye.

wheel-drive vehicles locally than

to broaden your horizons when it

the more expensive all-wheel-drive

comes to replacing your existing

examples.

wheels. And the classy Hyundai

It went on sale in East Africa in January and it’s a welcome replacement for an existing model while neatly recycling an old name. This, then, is the Tucson – and I believe

Tucson might just catch your eye

Trim levels

the South Korean automaker Hyun-

The Tucson is offered in no less

dai has come up with an absolute

than five trim levels and even the

cracker.

entry-level cabin generally looks

Hyundai’s new Tucson super-

and feels reassuringly expensive

sedes the manufacturer’s old ix35

and is carefully screwed together.

crossover model – a nice enough

Elsewhere there is a choice of gear-

car, I suppose, but not exactly a

boxes: manual six-speed, automatic

head-turner. Like the ix35, the

six-speed and automatic seven-

Tucson is still a crossover, but it

speed dual clutch transmission

has everything the old model

(DCT). Only the six-speed auto will

seemed to lack: razor-sharp styling,

be available in East Africa.

fiendishly clever engineering and a

Twin LED lights, eight-inch

commodious 513 litres of space in

touchscreen satnav, a panoramic

the rear (and that’s before the seats

sunroof, rear-view camera, elec-

are even folded).

tronic tailgate release and heated/

Hyundai in Dar es Salaam told

ventilated seats are all options

Explorer magazine that only 2.0

on less expensive models and

litre petrol versions will be sold

progressively standard across the

locally; although in other markets

trim levels all the way up to the

28

in the same way it caught mine.

DRIVE: HYUNDAI TUCSON

‘Even the entry-level cabin generally looks and feels reassuringly expensive’

CLASSY

Broaden your horizons with the Hyundai Tucson

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EAT: LA VÉRANDA

Sharing is caring at La Véranda

BY KIRSTEN ALEXANDER

L

tapas and dishes with a global influence, which means you can enjoy

a Véranda is not just a

Chinese, Indian and Spanish cuisine

tapas restaurant; it is Dar es

side by side, creating a wonder-

Salaam’s first and only tapas

ful fusion of flavours. As the dishes

restaurant, serving up an exciting

are meant to be shared among a

menu of small dishes designed to

group, you can try as many as you

be enjoyed by a group of people.

like without feeling guilty. Trust me,

The idea of tapas is to share and

it would be hard to stick to just one

socialize; and where better to enjoy the experience than at La Véranda,

dish anyway.

There truly is something for every

are wonderful, as are the sesame soy chicken and lamb souvlaki. The

FUSION

La Véranda brings together flavours from around the world

seafood at La Véranda also shines, with Asian flavours found in the Thai ginger fish and tempura calamari.

with its excellent location and

taste at La Véranda. Vegetarians

There are side dishes, too, and tempt-

friendly, attentive staff.

are well catered for with a selec-

ing desserts to complete your meal.

tion of tasty vegetable and cheese

To accompany the delicious tapas,

in Kivukoni, the restaurant is ideally

dishes, including falafel and mint

La Véranda offers a good selection

situated between the city centre and

yoghurt and paprika paneer. For the

of drinks, from champagne to soft

the peninsula, just a stone’s throw

more carnivorous, the beef tacos

drinks and truly excellent Long Island

Located at the Alliance Française

from the coast. The restaurant itself has a lovely open feel, with excellent views over the golf course and a restful, Mediterranean-inspired decor.

The menu contains a huge variety of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes, including both traditional Spanish

iced tea.

The dishes are meant to be shared among a group, try as many as you like…

The flavoursome food, views over the golf course and homely ambience make for an excellent lunch or dinner in Dar es Salaam. The only problem is resisting the temptation to order everything…

OUR VERDICT Atmosphere: Service: Food: La Véranda Restaurant Alliance Française Kivukoni Dar es Salaam Reservations: +255 763 491 212 Email: info@veranda-tz.com

LOCATION INFORMATION La Véranda will soon be relocating to the Peninsula, so check out their website for up-to-date information www.veranda-tz.com ■

30

TRAVEL INFORMATION VISA INFORMATION Most people will require a visa to enter Tanzania. Usually a tourist visa is issued, unless you are travelling on business, in which case you require a different visa.

Any traveller into Tanzania who is from a non-Commonwealth country – unless there is an agreement between the traveller’s country and Tanzania, in which case the visa is waived – will require a valid visa to gain entry.

Citizens from the following Commonwealth countries will, however, require a visa to enter Tanzania: United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, New Zealand and Australia.

Tanzania visas can be obtained from the following: › Entry points into the United Republic of Tanzania such as Dar es Salaam

TRAVEL TIPS To ensure you have the smoothest possible flight, here are some of our top tips for a top trip.

Make sure you arrive in good time, as the check-in desks close 20 minutes before the scheduled departure time. Passengers arriving after this time may not be accepted for travel, and liable for a no-show fee.

Auric Air does not provide alcohol on its aircraft, and passengers are not allowed to bring their own – or any food items – on board. Please bear this in mind before boarding.

All flights are also non-smoking.

Electronic equipment is allowed on board, including mobile telephones, laptops, radios, CD players and handheld games consoles, however for safety reasons, the use of these items may be limited, or forbidden during flying.

ANIMALS Animals and pets may travel on our aircraft, subject to criteria such as size and quantity. For more information, please contact our call centre on +255 783 233334.

Auric Air’s Call Centre is open 09:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 17:00 daily.

International Airport and Zanzibar Airport.

› The office of the Director of Immigration Services, Dar es Salaam, and the

office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar.

› Tanzania High Commissions or embassies abroad.

KENYAN VISAS All visitors entering Kenya – except those who are citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay – require a visa.

From September 1st 2015, all visas must be purchased online in advance of travel to Kenya from evisa.go.ke/evisa. E-visas are valid for 90 days.

A single entry visa costs US$ 51, which includes a US$ 1 service charge.

BAGGAGE Every passenger travelling with Auric Air gets a free baggage allowance as follows: › Adults and children: Checked

baggage of 15 kg, hand baggage of 5 kg

› Infants: Combined checked

CHILDREN Children are welcome on board Auric Air after their 11th birthday.

Unfortunately, before this age, we cannot accept unaccompanied minors. Infants under the age of two weeks will also not be accepted for travel.

baggage and hand baggage of 3 kg.

Excess baggage will be charged per kilogram. Owing to the size and weight restrictions of the aircraft, we cannot guarantee to transport excess baggage on the same flight.

Because of the nature of the aircraft, your baggage must consist of small, soft bags. Metal suitcases with sharp, pointed edges are prohibited.

MORE INFORMATION Head to www.auricair.com/ General/terms for more information on travelling with Auric Air.

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PILOT’S EYE VIEW NGORONGORO WILDLIFE View down inside the Ngorongoro Caldera, Tanzania

32

AURIC AIR ROUTE MAP

Scheduled Airstrips

Inducement Airstrips

Buboka Masai Mara

Rubondo

Mwanza

Serengeti

Arusha Kahama

Kigoma

Mahale

Tabora

Lake Manyara

TANZANI A

Zanzibar

Dodoma

Mpanda

Pemba

Tanga

Morogoro Katavi

DAR ES SALAAM

Ruaha

Sumbawanga

Iringa

Mafia

N

Songea

auricair.com

TANZANIA

Arusha Buboka Dar es Salaam Dodoma Iringa Kahama Katavi Kigoma Lake Manyara Mahale Morogoro Mpanda Mwanza Ruaha Rubondo Serengeti Shinyanga Songea Sumbawanga Tabora Tanga

UGANDA Entebbe

KENYA Masai Mara

SPICE ISLANDS Pemba Mafia Zanzibar

A-Z, from Arusha to Zanzibar RESERVATIONS

+255 783 233334 www.auricair.com

reservations@auricair.com