Auric Air – Explorer – Issue 1

Explorer ISSUE 1: APRIL-JUNE 2015

Inflight magazine I www.auricair.com

Arusha

Top five things to do Page 28

Kiligolf

Buying into the dream

Pemba Island DISCOVER PARADISE What to wear on safari Style do’s and don’ts

CONTENTS

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24

Explorer Inflight magazine

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32

FEATURES

REGULARS

8 A-Z of Auric Air 15 Pemba Island

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20 What to wear on safari: Men

Welcome to our first issue

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Explorer News

‘the island less visited’ It’s just not cool to be flashy

22 What to wear on safari: Women

Just add lightness and think beige…

26 Kiligolf

Dream estate for lovers of wildlife – and golf

28 A-Town

Don’t rush Arusha

INSIDE:

Gear up for gnus, golf and great food

5 Foreword

24 STAY: Jongomero 40 EAT: Six Degrees South 42 DRIVE: Land Rover Discovery Sport 45 Auric Air route map

30 Investing in Tanzania

46 Travel information

32 Wildebeest whimsy

48 Pilot’s eye view

Let the boom times roll

What a gnu will do when he’s blue

34 Cessna Caravan

Reliable workhorse

36 Wine in Tanzania

Why makutupora is pure magic

38 Mrembo Spa

Holistic or high tech?

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INSIDE

Explorer Inflight magazine

Auric Air Services Ltd Mwanza Office PO Box 336 Mwanza Tanzania.

Cell: +255 783 233 334; 255 736 200 849 Email : reservations@auricair.com Website: auric@auricair.com Explorer is published on behalf of Auric Air Services Ltd by:

Land & Marine Publications Ltd. 1 Kings Court, Newcomen Way Severalls Business Park, Colchester Essex CO4 9RA, United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com

ADVERTISING

Sales Manager Catherine O’Callaghan Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Cell: +44 (0)7769 110343 Email: auricair@landmarine.org No part of the contents of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishers.

The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in accordance with existing legislation.

All advertisements and non-commissioned texts are taken in good faith.

Gear up for gnus, golf and great food

BY GARY GIMSON, PUBLISHER

W

elcome to the first issue of Explorer – Auric Air’s new in-flight magazine.

Auric Air operates a dense network of flights across Tanzania. It also connects airstrips in Kenya’s Masai Mara and more recently has launched services between Mwanza and Entebbe. The airline has ambitious plans for further new routes, both domestic and international.

COVER

Pemba Island

So this new in-flight magazine is launched at a propitious moment for Auric Air. Many of our passengers are on their way to remote destinations throughout Tanzania and in all likelihood are heading out on safari. We have taken the liberty of offering some advice about what men and women should wear on safari.

IN THIS ISSUE:

While on safari, you will probably encounter a wildebeest or two, especially if you’re visiting the Serengeti or the Mara. We take a light-hearted look at the savannah’s much-maligned gnu.

Jongomero Experience the beauty of Africa in pure luxury

Today you are flying in a Cessna Caravan. Explorer takes a look at this truly remarkable aircraft.

Then we visit Pemba, experience holistic healing in Zanzibar, travel to Arusha, stay at Jongomero, play golf and sample Tanzania’s remarkably fine wines.

Wildebeest Migration Anything goes when its time for the gnu to move

I hope you enjoy your flight with Auric Air. If you have any comments about this magazine, please feel free to contact me at publishing@landmarine.com.

The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions.

Pemba Island The unlikely destination that will leave you wanting more

©2015 Land & Marine Publications Ltd ■

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FOREWORD

Welcome to our first issue

BY DEEPESH GUPTA, COMMERCIAL MANAGER, AURIC AIR

I

Today, Auric Air flies to over 30 destinations across Tanzania and beyond.

I hope that you find our new magazine of interest and that it makes your flight more enjoyable.

Enjoy your flight with Auric Air. If you have any comments to make about our new in-flight magazine or our service, please write to me at the email address below.

t gives me great pleasure to welcome our passengers to the first issue of our quarterly magazine, ‘Explorer’.

I am delighted to say that Auric Air has come a long way in a short time and has ambitious plans to continue its development as a regional airline.

Deepesh Gupta Commercial Manager Auric Air Services Ltd Email: dgupta@auricair.com

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News MORE FLIGHTS TO ZANZIBAR Auric Air has increased frequencies between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar to five flights each day from 15 February. The additional flight departs Dar es Salaam at 09.00 and returns from Zanzibar at 09.30. The extra flight is in response to passenger demand on this route.

NEW ADDITION TO FLEET Auric Air has taken delivery of its 10th Cessna Caravan 208 aircraft. This model is specifically the C208B EX, and the third one of the kind in Auric’s fleet. Like the rest of the Auric Air fleet, the Caravan was delivered new directly from the United States, entering service in March. This new addition will enable Auric Air to expand capacity on existing routes and to launch new services (see separate item about Tabora and Kahama).

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NEW DESTINATIONS Auric Air has added Tabora and Kahama to its route network. As of the first week of May, the new service will operate three times a week from Mwanza. The routing is: Mwanza –Kahama – Tabora – Kahama – Mwanza. For those unfamiliar with the new destinations, Tabora is a major tobacco centre and Kahama is a mining town.

AURIC AIR NEWS

Three reasons to visit:

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World-class diving destination with exquisite coral reefs

Mafia Island

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3

One of the safest and friendliest places in the Indian Ocean

Miles and miles of pure white unspoilt sand

US ROAD SHOW Auric Air joined a road show to the United States in January. The road show was organised by the Tanzanian Tourist Board. The airline’s sales and marketing team visited new and existing clients on the US west coast in Los Angeles, San Francisco and Seattle.

The Tanzanian delegation was led by Dr Adelhelm James Meru, permanent secretary of Tanzania’s Ministry of Natural Resources and Tourism. Leading travel agents and tour operators in the three cities were invited to the event, which featured presentations to promote Tanzanian tourism. Private stakeholders from Tanzania took part along with Tanzanian government representatives.

TRADE SHOW VISIT At the beginning of February, Auric Air visited the Shooting, Hunting and Outdoor Trade Show 2015 at the Mandalay Bay Convention Centre in Las Vegas.

AURIC AIR ONLINE www.auricair.com www.facebook.com/auricair www.twitter.com/auricair www.instagram.com/auricair

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A-Z OF AURIC AIR A is for Auric Air

C is for Cessna Caravan

Starting from humble beginnings in 2001, our airline now serves some of the most exciting and remote destinations across Tanzania and East Africa.

It is Tanzania’s preferred corporate and safari airline, flying 7,500 passengers to 30 destinations each month. Welcome aboard.

If you’re in the air with Auric right now, you will be travelling in one of our Cessna C208B Caravan aircraft. Head to Page 34 for an in-depth look at Auric Air’s chosen workhorse.

B is for Bukoba Located on the western shore of Lake Victoria, Bukoba is the capital of Kagera and home to Kagera Sugar Football Club, who play at the top level of professional football in Tanzania. Auric Air flies there on a regular basis.

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D is for Dodoma Translating into English from Gogo (a Bantu language), Dodoma literally means ‘it has sunk’. This is quite the opposite however, for the national capital of Tanzania and capital of Dodoma region, where much of the country’s wine is produced. On Page 36 we propose a toast to celebrate Tanzania’s tipples.

A-Z OF AURIC AIR

E is for Eat

F is for Forodhani Gardens

The cuisine of Tanzania is quite varied, but the most popular dish is ugali (maize porridge), a staple of many meals. At the coast, the seafood is fresh and delicious. Zanzibar offers an abundance of spices, creating a wonderful mix of flavours. Nyama choma (grilled meat), mandazi (fried dough) and samosas are all worth trying, too.

Located in Stone Town, Zanzibar, Forodhani Gardens is by day a beautiful park, and by night a lively street food market, filled with local people and tourists alike.

One of the few places where you can enjoy a true Zanzibar pizza, it’s a ‘must see’ for visitors to the island.

G is for Golf It’s ‘tee’ time in Tanzania, with a selection of golf courses to satisfy any enthusiast. There’s the recently opened Sea Cliff Golf Course, the first course in Zanzibar, with nine holes and 18 tees; and the Kilimanjaro Golf & Wildlife Estate (Kiligolf), which we explore on Page 26.

FORODHANI

See these beautiful gardens come to life at the nightly market

H is for Hippopotamus One of Africa’s greatest animals cannot always be found on safari; so if you want to be sure of sighting a hippo, take a trip with Auric Air to Rubondo Island, where they reside along with crocodiles and others. ›

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A-Z OF AURIC AIR

I is for Islands Auric Air flies to some wonderful islands in the Zanzibar archipelago, including the main island of Unguja (Spice Island) as well as Pemba (Green Island) and Mafia, home to some of the most amazing marine life in East Africa.

J is for Jongomero For the first issue of ‘Explorer’ we head to breathtaking Jongomero Camp in Ruaha National Park to experience the secluded wilderness. This luxury camp on the bank of the Jongomero sand river will leave you wanting to stay another night or two.

K is for Kilimanjaro Kilimanjaro, famously the highest mountain in Africa, is also the highest free-standing mountain in the world.

Located in the north-east of Tanzania, the mountain is close to the Kenyan border and can be reached via Arusha Airport.

L is for Lake Tanganyika One of the African Great Lakes, Lake Tanganyika is the second largest lake in Eastern Africa and the second deepest in the world. It stretches across four countries: Tanzania, Democratic Republic of Congo, Burundi and Zambia. Auric Air offers private charter flights to Kipili Airstrip nearby.

GREAT LAKE

giulio napolitano / Shutterstock.com

Fly with Auric Air to Lake Tanganyika, the second-deepest in the world

M is for Mining

Q is for Quest for Big Five

Tanzania is the fourth-largest gold producer in Africa and the sole producer of beautiful tanzanite. Also famous for its diamonds, Tanzania has a well developed mining industry, producing quality gemstones and minerals such as tsavorite, spinel and spessartite.

Many safari-goers have one overriding ambition while in the bush: to see the Big Five group of famous ‘game’ animals: African lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, African leopard and rhinoceros. If you’re en route to a safari now, take note, and see how many you can spot.

N is for National Parks Auric Air serves some of Africa’s best national parks. From the world-famous Serengeti to the relatively undiscovered Katavi to Kenya’s great Masai Mara, you can reach them all with Auric Air. Whether it’s a once-in-a-lifetime trip or you’re returning to the bush after many previous visits, an African safari is a great experience.

O is for Ocean Lapping the shores of Tanzania and its islands, the Indian Ocean is perfect for sea dwellers. You can go swimming, explore Mafia Island Marine Park, go whale and dolphin watching, take a dhow trip, and so much more.

P is for Packing If you’re anything like us, you will dread the chore of packing for a holiday or business trip. So we’ve tried to help out a little by offering some light-hearted advice about what to wear on safari.

Our article starts on Page 20.

R is for Rubondo Island Away from the Zanzibar archipelago is another notable island served by Auric Air. Instead of being off the coast, Rubondo Island is tucked away in a corner of Lake Victoria. About 80 per cent of this secluded island is covered in dense forest. A paradise for wildlife fans, it provides a haven for elephant, giraffe, hippo, crocodile and many other exciting species. Auric Air flies there daily.

S is for Selous Chances are you’ve heard of Selous Game Reserve, but did you know it was named after the British explorer, hunter and conservationist Frederick Courteney Selous? His legacy lives on in this game park, situated in the south of Tanzania, and it is home to various animals such as elephants, buffalo and crocodiles.

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ARE YOU READING THIS? Then potentially so are 24,000 Auric Air passengers.

Auric Air is Tanzania’s preferred corporate and safari airline, serving over 30 destinations.

Auric’s chartered and scheduled flights fly to places larger aircraft cannot reach – into the heartlands of Tanzania, to Entebbe, to the Masai Mara, and much more.

Reach Auric’s niche customer base, which includes: • Business executives and corporate key decision-makers in industries such as Mining, Oil Exploration, NGOs, Government, Local Businessmen, Bankers and Insurance • Luxury Tourism & Leisure Passengers • Owners & Managers of exclusive five-star lodges and camps Book your advertisement in Explorer to keep your business relevant and at the forefront of people’s minds.

To advertise please contact: Catherine O’Callaghan / catherineocallaghan@landmarine.com Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 / +44 (0)7769110343 Skype: catherine-landmarine

Martchan / Shutterstock.com

A-Z OF AURIC AIR

Nick Fox / Shutterstock.com

SET SAIL!

Hop aboard a dhow and take in the beautiful views

T is for Tingatinga

W is for Water Sports

Named after its founder, Edward Saidi Tingatinga, this style of contemporary African art evolved in the Oyster Bay area of Dar es Salaam and then spread across East Africa. Tingatinga paintings are among the nation’s most purchased art forms and popular with tourists from all over the world.

Tanzania has some of the best venues in Africa for water sports. While activities are available on the mainland, Zanzibar is the ‘go to’ place for those who like getting their hair wet. From kite surfing to dhow trips to scuba diving, there’s something for everyone, whether you’re a fully fledged water baby or just like to dip your toes.

U is for Unguja Unguja is the largest and most populated island of the Zanzibar archipelago and is the island that most people refer to simply as Zanzibar. Famous for Stone Town – the birthplace of Freddie Mercury – as well as for its spices and its beautiful coast, Unguja is a jewel in Tanzania’s crown.

X is for Xplore Okay, so we cheated a bit with this one, but exploring East Africa should be on everyone’s bucket list. Auric Air’s scheduled and chartered flights will take you to some of the most amazing places in Tanzania and beyond. So start your East African adventure today.

V is for VIP

Y is for Yetu

Auric Air offers bespoke charter services, including a dedicated VIP travel manager and top-class security.

Our VIP clients range from A-list celebrities to heads of state to top government officials, so it’s clear that Auric Air is a reliable and trusted carrier.

Yetu is the Kiswahili (also known as Swahili) word for ‘our’ and Tanzania is our land (‘Tanzania ni nchi yetu’). Tanzanians are proud of their country and will welcome you to come and experience all the delights it has to offer.

Z is for Zizz After a busy day on safari, in the water, or simply exploring, check out some of Africa’s best hotels, lodges and camps for a great night’s sleep.

From five-star beachfront luxury to authentic wilderness camps, you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to catching up on some zizz.

PUT YOUR FEET UP ...in one of Tanzania’s best hotels, lodges and camps

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PEMBA ISLAND

‘the island less visited’ Pemba Island

‘Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines.

Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.’

Mark Twain

BY JANE BARSBY

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PEMBA ISLAND

D

iscovery and exploration are not as easy as they used to be.

Everyone’s doing it. In 2014 over 1.1 billion tourists set out to broaden their horizons; and around 85 million of them ended up in France, the world’s most visited destination, while seven million of them found themselves at the top of the Eiffel Tower, the world’s most visited spot.

So if you’d like to take the road less travelled and arrive at the destination less visited, where do you go? The answer, at least according to the United Nations World Tourism Organisation, is the pacific island of Nauru, which receives only 200 tourists a year. Marvellous! Well, not quite, because it’s

Pemba has everything that Zanzibar has, and more.

Except the crowds. Perfect!

almost impossible to get there. Alternatively, you could try Somalia, which attracts just 500 tourists a year. But perhaps it’s not to everyone’s taste.

Then again, you could try the island of Pemba, part of the Zanzibar archipelago of

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Tanzania. And while Zanzibar receives over

And the differences don’t end there.

100,000 tourists a year, Pemba is lucky to

Ringed by coral reefs, Pemba offers some

see more than a couple of thousand. Yet

of the finest dive sites in the world, while

Pemba has everything that Zanzibar has,

its coast is dotted with idyllic islets, most of

and more. Except the crowds. Perfect!

which are miniature desert island paradises devoid of habitation or visitors. Pemba also

Ancient ruins

offers a plethora of birds, butterflies and

Perennially overshadowed by Zanzibar – its

turtle and whale shark watching to be

more visible, more vocal and more popular

had anywhere in the Indian Ocean. As for

sister – Pemba is separated from the larger

culture, Pemba abounds in ninth-century

island by only 50 km of water; yet it could

Swahili ruins and ancient mosques and is

not be further away in ambience. Where

recognised as a cradle of traditional medi-

Zanzibar abounds in hotels, Pemba has

cine and cultural beliefs.

wildlife and some of the finest dolphin,

› Relax on the glorious beaches,

of which the best is probably Vumawimbi on the Kigomasha Peninsula.

› Check out the fish market of

Tumbe as the catch is brought in.

› Island hop around the offshore

islets.

› Take a boat ride to Mesali Island

very few; where Zanzibar is flat and sandy, spring up daily on Zanzibar’s beaches,

Pirate hideaways

those of Pemba remain utterly pristine;

Pemba is an island of one-offs. According

and whereas the scent of cloves no longer

to the local people, it is a magic island once

wreathes the more famous ‘Spice Isle’ of

inhabited by a race of giants. In the 17th

Zanzibar, the air is redolent of cloves on

century it is said that the infamous pirate,

Pemba, whose surface is embroidered by

Captain Kidd, had his headquarters on one

a thick quilt of millions of clove trees.

of the offshore islets. During the Shirazi

Pemba is hilly and fertile; where new resorts

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

for swimming, snorkelling, diving, birdwatching, turtlewatching and guided nature trails.

› Absorb the Swahili way of life at

Chake Chake’s Pemba Museum.

› Visit the ninth-century Chakwa

Ruins, 11th-century Ras Mkumbuu Ruins or 13th-century Pujini Ruins.

› Take a stroll in the cool Ngezi

Forest Reserve, home to various endemic bird species as well as to the flying fox, Kirk’s red colobus monkey, vervet monkey, blue duiker and marsh mongoose.

› Enjoy signature Swahili cuisine CRYSTAL CLEAR

Coral reefs, mini desert islands and dive sites. Paradise!

such as kingfish cooked in lime, ginger, garlic, coconut, tomatoes and onions; parrotfish with seaweed and oranges; tuna steaks steamed in ginger; and jackfish baked with limes.

› Absorb the fragrance of the

clove harvest (September to November) as the whole island comes together to pick the clove buds and lay them out to dry in the sun.

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PEMBA ISLAND

Pemba:

NEED TO KNOW

Size: Pemba is 70 km long and 22 km wide.

Location: North of Zanzibar in the Zanzibar archipelago.

Religion: 95 per cent Muslim.

Economy: 75 per cent clove farming plus small-scale fishing and cattle rearing. period of its history Pemba was ruled

cuda, tuna and kingfish. Among the

by a sultan so cruel that he made

best sites in this marine conservation

the old men of the island crack nuts

area are: Fundu Reef (rose coral, red

with their bare gums; while today

and yellow sea fans, trigger fish and

Pemba is the last known home of the

wrasse); Kikota Reef (ideal for night

flying fox, the best place in the world

diving); Manta Point (close encoun-

to learn Swahili, and the only place

ters with giant manta rays) and the

in the Indian Ocean where you can

caves of Mesali Island (haunt of giant

watch a bullfight.

grouper).

Flying fox

Where to stay

The Pemba flying fox is the largest

Tourism is still in its infancy on

fruit bat in the world with a wing-

Pemba, so the choice of upmarket

span of over five feet. One of nature’s

hotels and resorts is limited. Perhaps

success stories, its numbers having

the most famous is the five-star

risen from a few hundred in the early

Manta Resort, renowned for its

1990s to some 22,000 today.

underwater bedroom (www.themantaresort.com). Other choices include

Dive sites

the five-star Fundu Lagoon Resort

Pemba Channel is the jewel of the

Lodge, an eco-friendly resort offering

East African dive site portfolio. Its

bungalows made out of recycled

deep waters promise dramatic walls

boats and natural local materials; and

and drop-offs, clear blue waters

the Kervan Saray Beach Lodge (www.

(average visibility 40 metres) and

kervansaraybeach.com). Alternatively,

encounters with eagle rays, manta

the island has a limited selection of

rays, Napoleon wrasse, great barra-

simple guesthouses.

Best time to visit: June to November and January to March. Best time for dolphin spotting is October to February.

Main towns: Chake Chake is the main town. To the north is the port of Wete and to the southwest the port of Mkoani.

Getting there: Auric Air flies to Pemba. Alternatively, visitors can take a half-day’s dhow ride from the mainland town of Tanga, or a ferry (five to six hours) or speedboat (about two hours) from Mkoani.

PEMBA

Get ahead of the crowds and explore the unexplored

Getting around: There is a limited bus service. Taxis, bicycles and motorcycles can be hired.

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(www.fundulagoon); the Pemba

‘Do not go where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail’ Ralph Waldo Emerson auricair.com

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WHAT TO WEAR ON SAFARI: MEN

Safari style tips for men

It’s not cool to be flashy

BY GARY GIMSON

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n days past, a gentleman travelling

here and mark out the wearer as a safari

the rainy season) or dust (at other times) is

in East Africa would have opted

parvenu, or worse.

vital. Brand-new boots just out of the box

for a standard and probably ill-fitting

Camouflage is also off the menu. In fact,

safari outfit – the ‘white hunter’ look.

the wearing of combat gear is forbidden in

If you have seen Italian-American actor

many African states and for obvious reasons.

In terms of where to buy, I would recom-

The same goes for an outfit that looks as

mend The Safari Store in the UK, which sells

Victor Mature in the 1956 Hollywood

look naff, so wear them in before you arrive in Africa.

film ‘Safari’ or Stewart Granger in ‘King

if it might have been bought in the airport

the impressively authentic-looking Rufiji

Solomon’s Mines’ (1950) then you will

lounge just before departure or at your

range of bush apparel. There’s also Cape

know what I mean.

hotel on arrival; or one that is excessively

Union Mart in South Africa, which has a

For both Mature and Granger, the films’

laundered and pressed. So a bit of wear

good selection of bushwear, including its

costumer designers chose sand-coloured

and tear can come in handy for creating

K-Way brand, featuring excellent gear such

shirts with large chest pockets, matching

the right image and to give that perfectly

as Explorer Grego and Kloof trousers, soft

long pants and a bush hat with a leopard-

attired yet seasoned-traveller appearance.

fleeces and comfortable and appropriate

skin band. Shorts, it seems, were worn only by askaris in those far-off colonial days.

Fast forward 60 years or so and a more

boots. These can be ordered on-line.

Ensemble

The Safari Store’s Steve Adams told ‘Explorer’: “We expedition test all our

Afro Chic style of safari wear is with us. Yet,

A bush hat is a useful and often necessary

products in Africa and do not sell anything

for the best-dressed among us, echoes

addition to this ensemble. In my opinion, a

unless it survives the expedition. Our

remain of that pre-independence sartorial

baseball cap – even one emblazoned with

last expedition took us the length of the

bush code.

the name of some remote and expensive

Okavango Delta in dugout canoes; and in

bush camp – should not be worn. Such

the next one we are testing our new range

East Africa really do make an effort to look

caps are best left for your guide or tracker

on a 350 km kayak jaunt down the Zambezi

good, yet a number fail to get the unwrit-

to wear.

River from Ngonye Falls to the Victoria Falls.

It’s good to see that many visitors to

ten dress code just right. Or, worse still, they

These days, a solar topee is a head

We sweat to make sure you are comfortable

don’t even bother and turn up on safari in

covering too far, perhaps, although I think

scruffy jeans topped by an unironed T-shirt,

it can look rather beguiling and classy on a

as the occupants of many a safari van will

woman. But unless you have matinée idol

ters, there’s no excuse for not having the

demonstrate.

looks, then men should probably avoid.

correct attire. And with some manufactur-

So, instead of looking out of place in the

Overall, a bit of dust can help create the

and cool on your safari.”

So with access to the specialist outfit-

ers actively pursuing cross-over clothing

bush, I’d like offer some advice for men.

illusion of a regular and knowledgeable

and footwear ranges you can always wear

First, I would choose a long-sleeved, fitted

visitor to this part of the world. The same

the same gear for, say, hiking when you get

and breathable shirt (with the obligatory

goes for a solid pair of boots. Some mud (in

home again.

chest pockets) in bottle green or khaki, made of cotton or a more modern material such as MaraTech. Ideally, the shirt needs to be paired with zip-off-leg trousers – ideal for those warm days as well as chilly nights around the campfire.

This outfit can be topped with a fleece – preferably not a gilet – in a muted colour.

Red, black and blue fleeces are a big no-no

A bit of wear and tear can come in handy for creating the right image and to give that perfectly attired yet seasoned-traveller appearance

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WHAT TO WEAR ON SAFARI: WOMEN

Safari style tips for women

Just add lightness and think beige…

BY KIRSTEN ALEXANDER

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G

oing on safari may no

Colour is more important than

you fly in. Typically, small planes are

longer be a once-in-a-

most people think. While white may

used to fly to remote destinations,

lifetime event, now that more

be associated with keeping cool, it is

and these come with varying, often

people are returning to Africa

not actually recommended for safari.

strict, weight limits.

after their first experience of the

Better to stick to neutrals. Beige and

On Auric Air, for example (as you

great outdoors; but every safari

khaki may be a no-go for the office,

probably will know by now) the limit

regular has to start somewhere.

but they’re a definite yes in the

is 15 kg.

We all have to choose the safari,

bush. They’ll keep you subtle in the

book the flight, grab our pass-

scenery, and they also camouflage

fully provides the weight in grams

port and decide what to pack in

any dirt. (Note: definitely no real

of each item it sells, so you can

our bags.

camouflage. At all.)

pack sensibly rather than have a

Knowing what to wear on safari

Although shirts may not be the

The Safari Store of London help-

last-minute rummage at the airport,

can be tricky as there seems to be

most flattering of garments, they

throwing socks and undergarments

a never-ending spiral of things to

are practical; and these days you

out of your luggage, for all to see.

consider. Will it be hot? What about

can certainly find shirts designed

If nothing else, this screams ‘safari

at night? Do I need insect repellent?

for women rather than having to

novice’ to any bystander.

Are these shoes okay? What about

raid the men’s section of your local

a hat? (But I hate hats!) And there is

camping and hiking store.

nothing worse than trying to track down the Big Five when all you can

Soft, squishable luggage is a plus, as the holds can be quite tight. So it’s best to plan ahead, unless you can

Fashionistas

afford to charter another plane, just

worn that other shirt – the one that

If you want to glam up a bit – not

unnecessary) luggage.

didn’t scratch or do up awkwardly,

overly necessary, as Africa’s wild

the one you left at home, still in

creatures are not usually known to

why not admit defeat and leave it

its packaging, or still in the shop

be judgmental fashionistas – then

to the professionals? Nowadays,

because you never bought it.

consider a lightweight scarf. It’s

safari newbies can find or download

useful for keeping your hair out of

packing lists, especially designed

women had only two options when

your face, keeping the sun off your

for safaris by connoisseurs. Some of

dressing for a safari: comfortable or

neck or simply for a bit of pizzazz.

them will simply give you a list of

stylish. You could either adopt Meryl

Again, lightweight material and

things to pack, but others go into

Streep’s prim, ladylike look in ‘Out of

neutral colours are key, here.

a bit more depth. The Safari Store’s

think about is how you wish you’d

Previously, it might seem that

Africa’, or buy everything with the

While the task of choosing safari-

for your very expensive, heavy (and And if it really is all too daunting,

list, for example, helpfully takes into

word ‘utility’ in the name – utility

appropriate clothing may seem

account weight restrictions, so you

belt, utility boots, utility shirt, etc.

daunting, it’s worth noting the

know you will definitely be onto a

Thanks to advances in the textile

weight restrictions on the aircraft

winner with your safari style.

industry, and an all-round greater knowledge of what actually works on safari, women now have the perfect option of staying cool and looking cool at the same time.

In terms of actual clothing, then, what should you pack for a safari?

Well, there is a wide choice available for style-conscious women, so you don’t have to leave your sass back at camp with your beachwear.

If you want to glam up a bit – not overly necessary, as Africa’s wild creatures are not usually known to be judgmental fashionistas – then consider a lightweight scarf ■ auricair.com

23

STAY: JONGOMERO

W

e looked long and hard for the perfect bush camp to be the

subject of our review in this launch issue of ‘Explorer’ magazine.

We evaluated the competing claims of many and noted their undoubted merits. We then whittled these down to a shortlist and eventu-

Climate, setting, pedigree?

All perfect…

24

ally we plumped for just one – a place where, given the choice, we would opt to stay when spending our hard-earned money.

We all agreed we wanted a property that summed up the safari experience; one that was remote, a little hard to get to, wild yet well run, unpretentious, truly authentic with a pedigree and, critically, a camp that blended effortlessly with its surroundings. So for us there was just one choice: Jongomero.

STAY: JONGOMERO Located 70 km from its nearest

But where to dine? Jongomero has

neighbour in Ruaha National Park,

a new breakfast terrace. Lunches are

Jongomero is about as remote as it

taken on the sand terrace and the

gets in Tanzania. There are no other

camp provides a hosted table so that

vehicles and no other people, just

guests can mingle with their fellow

great game viewing in what amounts

travellers, managers and guides. In

to a private safari in a private reserve.

the evenings, guests can enjoy a

Ruaha enjoys a unique micro-

sundowner in the park followed by

climate in Tanzania because of its

convivial evening drinks round the

status as a transitional zone between

campfire. Drinks are also served at the

the southern and eastern biomes.

dhow bar followed by private dinners

And this is reflected in the range

on the sand river bed (obviously not in

of plants and animals found in the

the green season), on the sand terrace

park including roan, sable and high

or by the swimming pool – a unique

concentrations of wild dog.

feature in Ruaha and it’s hippo friendly.

From June to November it has a evenings of 10˚C or less and warmer

Activities

days in the twenties. As the year

We also like the fact that walking is

unfolds, the days become warmer and

a key activity at the camp; and if you

the water sources in the park diminish.

haven’t walked in the bush, then you

Unlike most other parks, Ruaha has

haven’t been on safari. All bush walks

only one annual rain cycle that begins

are accompanied by an armed guide

in December; an exciting time, as the

as well by the obligatory Tanapa

seasonal sand rivers begin to flow

ranger. Guests on dawn game walks

around Jongomero.

set off at sunrise and stop for a

wonderful fresh climate with cool crisp

Just about every safari camp owner tries to talk up the sometimes dubious delights of the green

hearty bush breakfast; returning to camp just before midday.

Taking this to the next level, there

season, but in Ruaha this is indeed

are longer walking safaris comprising

the perfect time for birdwatch-

two or three days out in the bush,

ers. There are over 560 species of

walking every day and having what

birds, many of which are migrating

Jongomero calls the Denys Finch

through the park at this time of year.

Hatton Experience, with bread baked on the campfire and bucket showers

Cuisine

under a canopy of trees – although

We all know that we go to the bush to

of wine and a rather agreeable

view game; but, if we are honest, for

cooked meal.

still with the luxury of a chilled glass

many the cuisine is almost as impor-

So if you’re looking for the real

tant as the wildlife. And Jongomero

thing and don’t want to be palmed

does not disappoint. The menu can

off with less-than-authentic imitations

best be described as European with a

of the true safari experience, then

few Swahili twists. And these tend to

look no further than.

match the climate. As Ruaha can be on the chilly side, the food is of the warm, comforting variety: succulent beef fillets with aioli or double-baked cheese, leek and ham soufflés.​Yum.

Jongomero is owned and operated by the Selous Safari Company, which includes Siwandu (in the Selous) and Ras Kutani (at the coast) in its portfolio. These three properties can be combined.

JONGOMERO

A slice of pure luxury in the middle of nature’s finest

www.selous.com/jongomero

auricair.com

25

KILIGOLF

Dream estate for lovers of wildlife – and golf

added; these amount to roughly TZS 900,000 (about US$ 500) per square metre; so a 300 square metre house will cost TZS 270,000,000 (about US$ 150,000). Thus, for US$ 250,000 you can buy a villa overlooking the golf course, which is great value.

BY GARY GIMSON

T

plots for new villas.

Buyers have a title for their prop-

As an American-style golf devel-

erty, which is on a 99-year leasehold.

opment, Kiligolf is the first of a kind

Properties are for owners to live in as

he Kilimanjaro Golf &

in Tanzania. Construction of the golf

much or as little as they wish.

Wildlife Estate – known as

course has taken several years of

But how is work actually progress-

Kiligolf – is a 4,000 acre develop-

meticulous planning and attention

ing with the golf course? Kiligolf’s

ment about 25 km from Arusha.

to detail. The result is a truly natural

Zummi Cardoso says: “The last three

It is now nearing completion

environment in which to live, play

holes on the back nine are still under

and the golf course has 15 holes

golf and relax among predator-free

already in play.

wildlife.

The course at Usa River is just a

TEE TIME

Kiligolf’s lush 15-hole golf course is nearly complete

construction and the full 18 holes will be playable from 1 July. Work continues on the infrastructure of the estate

International Airport and a similar

Reserved

distance from Arusha. Nairobi can

More than half the plots have already

be reached by road in just under five

been reserved, with the early Phases 1

hours, but it’s probably better to fly

to 4 completely sold out. A new phase

which are connected to water and

into Kilimanjaro or Arusha from the

has just been released that includes

electricity mains as well as back-up

Kenyan capital.

some delightfully positioned fairway

generators. We have 12 house designs

plots on the back nine.

to choose from and owners submit

25-minute drive from Kilimanjaro

Set against the backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro, Kiligolf comprises a

Plots start at around TZS 160

with new roads going into new areas.

New water features are also being completed on the back nine.”

Zummi adds: “We sell serviced plots

their plans to a building committee

testing par-72, 18-hole championship

million (US$ 95,000) to which

before choosing a contractor of their

course dotted with cleverly spaced

construction costs must then be

own, or from a suggested list from

26

of Kiligolf’s existing clients are, for the

duiker, aardvark and bushpig. Part

moment, Dar-based residents look-

of the estate has been set aside as

ing for an upcountry property for

a wildlife area where other animals

weekends and longer breaks. Never-

such as impala, lesser kudu and

theless, there is interest from beyond

Grant’s and Thompson’s gazelle will

the nation’s borders and, fortunately,

be reintroduced. Plots will be set out

Tanzania warmly welcomes foreign-

in a way that allows the animals to

ers to come and invest. There are

live in harmony with the property

three types of resident permit. Class

owners.

A is for investors, Class B for employ-

While awaiting completion of

ees and Class C for retired people. It

the course, Kiligolf has lost no time

takes time to get a residence permit,

in holding its first competitions. A

but as long as all the documentation

number of small events have been

is in order it’s not difficult to obtain.

held including a ‘Movember’ tourna-

Most of Kiligolf’s foreign investors are

ment which raised money for the

likely to be in Class C.

Arusha Mental Health Trust and the Flying Medical Service. Kili-

Kiligolf. All properties must conform

golf also hosted a nine-hole night

purchasing to protect the surround-

Untamed

ing environment and other nearby

On the Kiligolf estate, the 360 plots

These events have been supported

property owners.”

are surrounded by a mass of wild

by the local community, by players

flora and fauna. The former sisal

from Arusha Gymkhana Club, and by

tors get membership of the golf

estate has been converted into

the TPC and Moshi golf clubs.

club. The yearly service fee includes

lush greens and verdant fairways

membership of the golf club for four

surrounded by untamed wilderness.

to the covenant they sign when

Aside from buying the plot, inves-

members of a family as well as covering estate road maintenance and security, among other things.

Zummi acknowledges that most

The estate contains a wide variety INVEST Membership of the golf club is a bonus for investors

tournament using luminous balls.

The clubhouse is not yet finished but will open later this year. For the time being there is a small temporary

of wildlife as well as an impres-

clubhouse at the driving range which

sive birdlife. The animals currently

serves drinks and light snacks. It will

include dik-dik, steinbok, bushbuck,

be the final piece in the Kiligolf jigsaw.

Set against the backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro, Kiligolf comprises a testing par-72, 18hole championship course auricair.com

27

A-TOWN

Don’t rush

Arusha

BY KIRSTEN ALEXANDER

Five things to do in A-Town without going on safari

K

nown by many as the starting point for an exciting safari trip around

Tanzania’s Northern Circuit, Arusha is almost synonymous with ‘safari stopover’.

Virtually everyone who visits Tanzania’s northern parks will have to pass through it, which makes Arusha an often visited but less often explored town.

But there is more to A-Town than just national parks – albeit wonderful national parks – so we take a look at the other delights that this gateway to the Northern Circuit has to offer.

CULTURAL HERITAGE CENTRE The eye-catching design of this building – made to look like a drum, a spear and a shield – provides a perfect summary of what awaits visitors inside: an equally informative and interesting look at the fascinating culture of Tanzania. There is an impressive collection of art and artefacts, exquisite precious and semi-precious stones, mouth-watering food and bargains galore, making it a real hub of culture and interest. Browse the sculptures, pick up some beautiful spices and absorb the wonderful Tanzanian culture.

28

SABLE SQUARE SHOPPING VILLAGE Set in four acres of beautiful grounds is Sable Square Shopping Village, the place to go in Arusha for a spot of retail therapy.

Open seven days a week, with free parking and a delightful selection of shops and restaurants, Sable Square is a retail oasis with something for everyone, with coffee, art, clothing, jewellery, food, crafts and much more. Our top tips are the Banana Box Company for crafts and accessories; and the Bookhouse Bistro for a drink and a bite to eat.

KHAN’S BBQ If you prefer to grab something to eat while on the move, then Khan’s BBQ is an unlikely treat.

Car repair garage by day, street food ‘restaurant’ by night, Khan’s BBQ is as delicious as it is memorable. The Indian-influenced food is cooked in front of you on a barbecue in the street with an impressive array of salads and sauces to complement the succulent meats. A must-try for serious foodies.

THE BLUE HERON

MESERANI SNAKE PARK

Whether it’s a morning espresso to kickstart the day, somewhere pretty and tranquil for a first date, a place to let the children run around while you catch up with friends, or just somewhere to enjoy a really good meal, why not set a course for the Blue Heron on Haile Selassie Road. Offering an exciting and varied menu, including some of the best pizzas in Arusha, the Blue Heron is the perfect place to stop, refuel, relax and enjoy the ambience of the garden with an ice-cold drink in your hand.

Just the mention of the word ‘snake’ can make some people feel uneasy, let alone the idea of a whole park full of the slithery creatures. But the Meserani Snake Park is more than just home to a variety of exotic and sometimes dangerous creatures; it offers everything from camel rides to a Maasai cultural museum. There is a well equipped camping area on site as well as a legendary bar. Of course, the park’s main event is the snakes, all 48 of them, and the collection of other reptiles housed in Meserani.

■

auricair.com

29

INVESTING IN TANZANIA

Let the boom times roll Why the big players are investing in Tanzania…

BY JOHN TAVNER

W

Nations Conference on Trade and Develop-

ing up the list of global economic players

ment (Unctad).

who can see a golden opportunity to put

In terms of natural resources, Tanzania

their money to work in Tanzania? One name

hen you look at the personal

has yet to play its trump card, which is the

that has come to the fore is China, which

income of the average

vast reserves of natural gas that will begin

in 2013 invested US$ 1.4 billion in Tanzania

Tanzanian, this is not one of the world’s

to be exploited commercially in 2020. The

– significantly more than the United States,

rich nations. And yet, in the eyes of

country is believed to have something in

for example, which ploughed US$ 950

economic watchers and forecasters

the region of 200 trillion cubic feet of natu-

million into the Tanzanian economy in the

across the globe, Tanzania is a land of

ral gas reserves as well as huge – although

same year.

economic boom.

not yet proven – reserves of oil. In addition,

There’s no doubt about it: the national

Tanzania is the third-largest gold producing

economy of Tanzania is simply power-

country in Africa and also has large deposits

ing along. For the past three years or so

of coal and other minerals.

the country has been enjoying an annual

When natural gas production starts up

Investments Perhaps surprisingly, though, it was the United Kingdom which came top of the list

growth rate of around seven per cent – and

in five years’ time, Tanzania will be looking

of investors in 2014 by ploughing US$ 4.7

according to respected financial journals

to export liquefied natural gas (LNG) to

billion into Tanzania. This included signifi-

such as ‘The Economist’, this growth is set to

specific markets such as China, Chile, Paki-

cant investments by the British oil and gas

continue through 2015 and onwards to 2018.

stan and Spain as well as more generally to

company BG Group and the London-based

But what is Tanzania’s secret formula for

the continents of East and South Asia, Latin

brewing and beverage giant SABMiller.

economic success? What does Tanzania

America and Europe.

Another key player in 2014 was India, with

have going for it nowadays that has placed it

With these key reserves of natural

among the world’s most dazzling performers

resources in the background, Tanzania

while Kenya – where many multinational

in terms of the national economy?

has seen an exceptionally swift rate of

companies have their regional base – was

economic growth in a number of capital-

in third place with US$ 1.5 billion and China

intensive sectors. According to the World

was fourth.

Well, the answer can be stated quite simply in three parts.

Bank, the fastest-growing of these sectors

Valuable One is the fact that Tanzania is exception-

a hefty US$ 1.8 billion invested in Tanzania,

In the energy sector in particular, there

are communications, construction, financial

has been significant investment by Statoil of

services, manufacturing and retail.

Norway, Ophir Energy of the UK and the US

The benefits of economic growth are

energy company ExxonMobil.

ally well endowed with valuable natural

certainly not shared equally across the spec-

There is one obstacle in the way of

resources – most notably natural gas, oil

trum of Tanzanian society, however. It is the

progress that potential investors are well

and gold, but also including coal and other

urban technocrat who is enjoying the ‘feel

aware of, however, and that is the poor

minerals as well as precious stones.

good factor’ of inward investment, while his

state of the nation’s infrastructure, particu-

fellow Tanzanians in the rural communities

larly when it comes to energy generation.

ism destination thanks to its innate beauty

continue to feel the pinch. In 2012, for exam-

This has made Tanzania a costly environ-

and impressive range of flora and fauna.

ple, those working in service industries such

ment in which to operate. The problem is

And the third, highly significant, factor

as communications, financial services, retail

compounded by the limitations of domes-

is that in recent years Tanzania has a grate-

and transport were riding high on an annual

tic transport; and if the nation is to maintain

ful target for high levels of foreign direct

growth rate of eight per cent, while in the

its rapid growth, these issues will need to

investment (FDI). In 2013, for example,

agricultural sector – on which about 80 per

be addressed. On the other hand, the

Tanzania received about US$1.9 billion in

cent of Tanzanian householders rely for their

quality and availability of domes-

FDI – significantly more than neighbouring

income – it was only 4.2 per cent.

tic flights has improved

Another is the appeal of Tanzania as a tour-

Kenya – making it the highest beneficiary of FDI in East Africa, according to the United

30

So where is the inward investment coming from? Which are the nations head-

dramatically in recent years.

THE CHINA SYNDROME Some idea of China’s level of spending in Tanzania can be gained from one of its single largest investments recently. This was a US$ 3 billion agreement signed by the Sichuan Hongda Group to develop coal mining and steel making projects in Tanzania. At that time, too, the Export-Import Bank of China loaned US$ 1.2 billion to build a 500 km gas pipeline between Mtwara and Dar es Salaam. More Chinese-financed projects are expected to get under way in the sectors of agriculture, infrastructure and manufacturing.

ASK THE EXPERTS The Tanzania Investment Centre (TIC) has been a key factor in attracting inward investment. Established in 1997, the TIC provides a one-stop shop for all investors. In addition to mainland Tanzania, other incentives are offered by the Zanzibar Investment Promotion Agency (ZIPA) and the Zanzibar Free Economic Zones Authority (ZAFREZA). â–

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31

WILDEBEEST WHIMSY

What a gnu will do when he’s blue

BY JANE BARSBY

Confused about the migration of wildebeest? You will be…

E

veryone knows when it’s

by half again as many

time for the annual migra-

zebra and gazelle,

tion of the wildebeest in East

would dutifully commence

Africa, don’t they? Well, no,

their annual migration from

actually they don’t. Indeed, most

the short-grass plains of

people find the migration a rather

Serengeti to the lush green pastures

confusing phenomenon from

of the Mara. Then, when the grass

start to finish.

became sparse and the wildebeest

It happens in June, doesn’t it? In

got peckish, typically towards the end

Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve?

of October, they would set off again

Or is it in October in Tanzania’s

back to the Serengeti.

Serengeti National Park? Or does it

And that was that.

happen in both places? All year round?

Made Simple’ are produced from

Direction

time to time, but somehow the

But these days anything goes.

arrows that swirl around East Africa,

Sometimes all the wildebeest set

first heading determinedly this way

off at once; sometimes only half of

and then doggedly that, only add to

them do. Sometimes they all set off

the confusion. Most of us are left just

and then some of them turn back.

as bemused about who is heading

Sometimes they all pull up short and

where, when or why as we were in

mill about for weeks without direc-

the first place.

tion. Sometimes they seem to be

Maps entitled ‘The Migration

Sometimes it seems as if the wildebeest themselves aren’t too sure.

It used to be that, at some point

heading in both directions at once.

And latterly a stubborn contingency, presumably worn out by all this

between the end of July and a delib-

movement to and fro, has taken up

erately vague point in November, over

permanent residence in Kenya.

1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied

32

Confusion indeed.

But then the wildebeest are the

nication system known as ‘swarm

masters of muddle. Until 1969, for

intelligence’ that allows them to use a

instance, there was no such thing

communal brain to determine where

as a migration. On the contrary, the

they’re going, why they’re going, and

wildebeest had remained placidly

when they’re going.

stationary since the dawn of time.

But then, in 1969, seemingly with one

Pity they haven’t deigned to share this intelligence with the rest of us.

accord, they set off for the Mara.

Nor do they all migrate even now: the blue wildebeest does and the black doesn’t. Why? Well, a million years ago, it seems, there was only one type of wildebeest, also known as a gnu. Then, for reasons known best to the animal itself, the wildebeest strain divided, so that now

Sometimes all the wildebeest set off at once; sometimes only half of them do

we have the blue wildebeest, which is grey, and the black wildebeest, which is brown. While the black wildebeest has learned to adapt to eating things other than lush young grass, the blue wildebeest has not.

And so it is that the blue wildebeest migrates and the black doesn’t.

Perverse Just to confound things, there is a herd of blue wildebeest living in the Ngorongoro Crater whose members flatly refuse to migrate; and there is another in the Selous whose members have become almost sedentary.

So wildebeest are perverse?

Yes, but they are also clever. To protect themselves against attack, for instance, they take it in turns to sleep at night. And to determine the proximity of danger they listen to the pitch of alarm calls emitted by other animals – particularly baboons – to gauge the degree of danger.

And that’s not all. Because, rather than blundering around East Africa in a chaotic frenzy as we have always supposed them to do, recent research

WILDEBEEST TRIVIA › The famous Gnu Song (‘I’m

a gnu – how do you do?’) was originally written and performed by Michael Flanders and Donald Swann and later the song was memorably featured on the Muppet Show.

› The plural of wildebeest is

wildebeest, wildebeests or wildebai (the word comes from the Dutch for ‘wild beast’).

› The wildebeest is the

most abundant big game species in East Africa, both in population and biomass.

› Most wildebeest live to an

age of 20 years (but some live to 30).

› The wildebeest has a top

speed of 64 km per hour.

› 90 per cent of wildebeest

calves are born within three weeks of each other.

› 70 per cent of wildebeest

carcasses are consumed by vultures.

has proved that the wildebeest have ■

evolved a sophisticated commu-

auricair.com

33

CESSNA CARAVAN

T

here’s every likelihood that you are

a reliable and robust aircraft that can land

short strip or heavy loads are all irrelevant

reading ‘Explorer’ while zipping

on rough airstrips and take off with ease

and are answered by a question: do you have

from bush runways of restricted length.

a C208B? If so, no problem, job done.”

across Tanzania with Auric Air. Or perhaps you have taken a complimen-

The Caravan has been in service as an

tary copy of our in-flight magazine with

aircraft since 1984, although the Auric Air fleet

you to peruse at your leisure.

is, of course, much younger. The Caravan has a

If so, then you will be flying – or will have flown – in a Cessna C208B Caravan (to give the aircraft its full and technical designation).

Reliability

payload of 1,200 kg and a range of three and a

Sajid adds: “On top of all that performance,

half hours’ flight with a reserve of 90 minutes.

the reliability is very, very good. Dispatch

Auric Air operations manager Sajid

rates are fantastic. Put passengers on the

Hussein extols the Cessna’s capabilities:

plane, and it will not disappoint. It is the

humble Caravan forms the backbone of the

“The performance of the plane at the price

perfect example of keep it simple, boss.”

fleets of many ‘safari’ type air operators. It’s

is unrivalled. It is a Land Cruiser of the skies.

Right across sub-Saharan Africa, the

Questions like what is the challenge, a rough

The Caravan has an excellent safety record and, in addition to bush capability, it is ideal for use on ‘thin’ commercial routes

RELIABLE

WORKHORSE ‘The performance of the plane at the price is unrivalled. It is a Land Cruiser of the skies’.

34

or where a high frequency of operation

in Uganda – a destination served from the

wanted to be sure that the aircraft we own

is more important than mere volume of

lakeside town of Mwanza.

were only owned [by Auric Air] and therefore

passengers – such as between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar.

Each of Auric Air’s 10-strong Caravan fleet was purchased new by the carrier. Its oldest

we direct purchase from the factory.”

Luggage is stored in a series of easy-access

Caravan was delivered in 2008 and its most

cargo pods in the belly of the aircraft. This

engine Caravan seats just 13 passengers

recently acquired aircraft was added only

makes for speedy loading and unloading

when one pilot is flying, and 12 passengers

last year. This gives the fleet a youthful aver-

and for quick turnarounds. The downside

when two pilots are requested.

age age of just 2.8 years.

is that each passenger is restricted to an

As you will have noticed, the single-

Auric Air operates a 10-strong fleet of Caravans on routes throughout mainland Tanzania

industry standard of 15 kg in soft-sided bags

Modernisation

(which, in any case, is just about perfect for a

Zanzibar, Pemba and Mafia as

Sajid explains the Auric Air philosophy: “As

hand luggage at the pilot’s discretion, giving

well as to airstrips in the Masai

for modernisation, we wanted to adopt tech-

a useful 20 kg in total.

Mara over the border in Kenya

nology for safety reasons. As equipment gets

and to the paradise Indian Ocean islands of

and to Entebbe International Airport

better, safety gets enhanced. We

safari). Auric Air also allows a further 5 kg of

So as you enjoy your flight today, it’s worth knowing that there is a lot more to the workaday Cessna Caravan than might have been apparent before you came on board.

CESSNA CARAVAN

Reliable, modern and safe: Auric Air’s star in the sky

auricair.com

35

WINE IN TANZANIA

pure magic

Why makutupora is

Let’s raise a glass to Tanzania’s thriving wine industry

N

to local conditions. According to TDL brand manager Martha Bangu, the quality of the grape has improved tremendously in recent years and production is rising annually.

Having got production on an upward curve, Martha now wants to see greater

o doubt the phrase ‘African

late frost kills the vines. The climate also has

local wine consumption: According to

wine’ will direct your thoughts

to be sunny, with just enough rain and low

Martha, the message is: “Celebrate your

to South Africa’s plentiful and exciting

humidity. Dodoma is one of the few places in

own success with the fruits of our success.”

offerings of red, white and rosé.

sub-Saharan Africa, outside the Cape, where

She goes on: “As a result, we then encour-

this ideal climatic mix can be found.

age national pride in a beautiful local

Perhaps surprisingly, though, Tanzania is

wine. We also tend to highlight Dodoma

right behind South Africa as the second-

Wines as a lifestyle choice. Consumers are

and with ever more investment being

Production

pumped into wine production, its wine

Tanzania’s wine production is in the hands

Tanzanian food or as part of a social gather-

industry is thriving.

of three companies: Tanzania Distilleries Ltd

ing. After all, toasting your success is no fun

(TDL), which is affiliated to South Africa’s

if you do it alone.”

largest wine producer in sub-Saharan Africa;

Tanzania’s commercial wine production

encouraged to enjoy a great local wine with

is concentrated around Dodoma at about

giant Distell group; and producers Cetawico

Distell has played a major role in advis-

1,100 metres above sea level. Here, produc-

Cantina Sociale di Dodoma and Tanganyika

ing farmers on viticultural practices and is

ers have found an agreeable climate and a

Vineyards Co (Tavico).

confident that grape growing will become

soil that is perfect for growing grapes.

All three rely, directly or indirectly, on a

a meaningful contributor to Tanzania’s agri-

Grapes need a particular climate in which

network of small farmers for their grapes.

cultural sector. The company has set itself

to thrive: not too hot – except, perhaps, when

And the grape they all choose to grow is

the task of doubling production of locally

ripening – but not too cold either, because a

the makutupora variety, which is best suited

produced grapes, which are hand-farmed.

36

With few tractors, even soil prepara-

wico’s output is consumed within

tion is done manually. Owing to the

Tanzania, but some wine is exported

lack of irrigation, almost all vineyards

to markets across East Africa. Ceta-

consist of dry land and virtually no

wico produces Overmeer wine (a

chemicals are used.

bag-in-a-box brand), which is then packaged by TDL; and it also has a

Full-bodied

variety of dry whites and reds from

Founded in 2002, Italian-owned

chenin blanc, shiraz and cabernet

Cetawico sells tempting crispy whites,

sauvignon grapes.

full-bodied reds and a rosé, all from cooperatively grown grapes. Unlike

a mix of makutupora (of course),

More needs to be done, however, to market and promote Tanzanian vintages. Martha sets out her ambitions: “Internationally, Tanzanian wines can be positioned as part of the welcoming heritage – ‘karibu’ – that the country is known for. Many international tourists look for something unique about the places they visit, which helps make the trip special in

TDL, Cetawico is not part of a major

the first place. Providing something as

multinational drinks business. On the

part of the Tanzania experience, such

contrary, its presence in Tanzania is

as a great wine made from the unique

partly luck and partly circumstance.

makutupora grape, makes for a safari

Cetawico is associated with the

that’s all the more special.”

Fondazione San Zeno, a Verona-

Clearly, Tanzania is now producing

based humanitarian organisation. Its

some very drinkable wines. So let’s

roots in Tanzania can be traced to the

say ‘cheers’ to the makutupora grape

pioneering work of an Italian mission-

and to more great local vintages.

ary who experimented with planting vines and growing grapes during his time in Tanzania.

Seeing the potential and building on the missionary’s early success, the Fondazione San Zeno, with local partners, then financed the commercial production of wine. The first wine was produced in 2005. Output has continued to grow and has now reached over 2 million litres a year.

Cetawico’s assistant managing director, Gabriella Balsamo, says: “We involve around 450 farmers in the local Dodoma region. We are working with the Tanzanian government as well as supporting a national project called Kilimo Kwanza, which

PIONEERS OF WINE Wine production in Tanzania is not new. In 1961, just after independence, former President Julius Nyerere encouraged the introduction of vines and asked foreign missionaries to provide their expertise.

By 1963 inmates at Isanga prison had planted four acres of grapes and these plantings were later extended. The prison later installed a winery plant and, for some time, was the region’s sole buyer of grapes for processing.

supports young farmers.”

■

For the time being, most of Ceta-

auricair.com

37

MREMBO SPA

holistic

BY KATE WINGAR

or high tech?

The spa that is bringing natural back

F

or decades, the beauty

more popular than ever. But how do

Swahili), a small spa providing all-

industry has been commit-

old medicine and holistic healing

natural beauty treatments from the

ted to using the most progres-

methods compare with the latest

Zanzibar Archipelago. Now 10 years

sive therapies and devising new

technology and advancements in

old, the business started in a simple

innovations and techniques.

medical knowledge?

way with experimental concoctions

From chemical peels and dermal

at the back of an old antique store.

the modern world has become

Conventional

has combined knowledge gained

obsessed with the use of danger-

Bridging the gap between conven-

through years of studying Zanzi-

ous and invasive procedures.

tional beauty methods and invasive

bar’s herbs with the advice of local

procedures has always been tricky,

Zanzibari and Pemban women.

beauty practices have been making

but Mrembo Spa in Zanzibar has

Many of the ingredients in the spa’s

a comeback. Instead of asking for

managed to convince its many

natural products date back hundreds

the latest celebrity fad treatment, we

clients that ancient remedies are

of years and are still used by elderly

are returning to our roots to find the

healthier and more effective than

Swahili women today. By blending

healthiest, safest and most natural

going under the knife.

therapeutic and relaxation elements

fillers to laser skin and botox,

Recently, however, traditional

way to stay looking young. It seems

Located in the heart of Stone

the trusted ancient treatments

Town is Mrembo (meaning ‘woman

have stood the test of time and are

who likes to pamper herself’ in

38

In creating its products, the spa

MREMBO SPA

Beautifully natural to bring out your natural beauty

with fresh flowers, herbs and spices from the spa’s own plantation and neighbouring businesses, Mrembo

has developed a comprehensive portfolio of treatments for all skin types.

From lemongrass and seaweed scrubs to hot sand massages and spinal revitalisation, Mrembo is devoted to tradition, perfecting the ancient beauty practices that have had a lasting influence.

The spa’s Lime and Coconut Parcel daily moisturiser is said to uncover the true brilliance of your complexion and to last longer than chemical face peels, while the Vanilla and Aloe Vera Scrub banishes fine lines and deep wrinkles, with similarly refreshing results to dermal facial fillers.

Mrembo’s products have shown that ancient holistic recipes can take care of your beauty regime from top to toe and can be just as effective as cosmetic surgery. Using time-honoured recipes passed down through generations of Zanzibari women, plus natural ingredients such as coconut, rosewater, lime and aloe vera, Mrembo Spa and its eight employees have provided modern society with alternative healthy beauty treatments to make us look and feel good without having to use needles and abrasive methods.

SINGO SCRUB

KIDONGE SCRUB

The Singo, one of the spa’s signature treatments, is traditionally used daily for two weeks by Swahili bridesto-be prior to their wedding day. The compilation of ylang ylang, jasmine and rose petals with indigenous herbs such as mpatchori (a sweet smelling herb from Unguja) and mpomia (geranium) creates a smoothing and moisturising effect. Sandalwood, sweet basil, clove and rice powder are added as an exfoliator and the result is fresh and youthful-looking skin.

Mrembro is known for its Kidonge clove and spice scrub. Originally used on men in Pemba Island, the treatment is combined with an aromatherapy massage to invigorate and boost energy levels. After being steamed in warm coconut oil, the scrub creates a wonderful heat sensation on the skin and evolves into a creamy moisturiser.

Mrembo Spa products can be bought from the Mrembo Spa shop. www.mrembospa.com

auricair.com

39

EAT: SIX DEGREES SOUTH GRILL AND WINE BAR

40

EAT: SIX DEGREES SOUTH

We love the seafood on this seashore

BY SAM GIMSON

L

iving up to its moniker of The Spice

After the meal we met the manager

Island, Zanzibar has a reputation for

who showed us around and we sat and

offering fresh, flavoursome foods – as

talked with him late into the evening. He

epitomised by the Six Degrees South

is knowledgeable about art and a great

Grill and Wine Bar. I was lucky enough

conversationalist.

to dine there recently, and if I were to

I returned the following morning and

return to the island for one night only,

enjoyed a breakfast of pancakes with bacon

Six Degrees would be my first choice.

and drizzled honey – a most indulgent start

This restaurant had been recommended to me and I wanted to review it. My friend

to the day. Strangely enough, the three ingredients complemented one another

and I were seated with a view along the length of the restaurant, which looks onto the starlit ocean. Other diners were already enjoyFOOD WITH A VIEW

Tempting tastes in an unrivalled setting

ing the well-presented food on a varied and intriguing

My friend and I were seated with a view along the length of the restaurant, which looks onto the starlit ocean

menu that included coconut fish curry, sweet and spicy chicken wings and Philadelphia po’ boy.

well. The pancakes were thick and velvety,

How could I not be hungry?

the bacon smoked and crispy.

Calamari

its spectacularly bright morning light and

The food soon arrived. We had decided to

and relaxed that I could happily have sat for

share a small selection of dishes. First up

hours. The room had comfortable sofas and

was pickled calamari and octopus, a cold

a bar where you could chat or check your

dish bathed in a rich vinaigrette. Having

emails. With food, service and ambience

previously eaten overcooked and unten-

all of the same high standard, Six Degrees

derised tentacles in Zanzibar, it was pure

really is a remarkable restaurant – one that

pleasure to be served well cooked seafood.

you’ll want to return to.

The atmosphere in the front room, with its panorama of blue water, was so pleasant

The Mediterranean crostini with a hint of chilli and sweet vegetables were satisfying and healthy, adding further crunch to the lightly toasted ciabatta bread.

The Greek salad was laid out so that each vegetable could be tasted separately, with cherry tomatoes, green peppers and black olives, all grown locally.

www.6degreessouth.co.tz

auricair.com

41

DRIVE: LAND ROVER DISCOVERY SPORT

More bushbuck

than buffalo…

BY GARY GIMSON

W

hen I bought my first

slightly more svelte Freelander range

model is also on its way later this year

bullbar-fronted Land

– although the car also borrows lines

with mightily impressive CO2 figures

Rover Discovery back in the early

and themes from other current Land

of 119 g/km – admittedly not of any

1990s I was thrilled to drive such a

Rover models.

real interest to us in East Africa, but

big and indestructible machine, to

To start with, Land Rover is offering

have seven seats in a 5+2 configu-

a range of four-cylinder turbocharged

ration and to enjoy a driving posi-

petrol and turbo-diesel engines

tion that seemed, at the time, to

with stop/start technology. Petrol

Rover dealer told ‘Explorer’: “We

make me master of all I surveyed.

derivatives use an all-alloy Si4 2.0

will have both the petrol and diesel

But when I look back, here was a

litre engine with 240 PS. The 2.2 litre

engines available for our market.

lumpy 4x4 with all the subtlety of the

turbo-diesel is available in either 150

Berlin Wall, producing a weedy 105

PS TD4 or 190 PS SD4 specification,

PS (can you believe?) from a 2.5 litre

with both the TD4 and SD4 produc-

diesel engine that Massey Ferguson

ing the same 420 Nm of torque.

might have rejected as being too noisy. And with all the cornering ability of the late Luciano Pavarotti after a particularly agreeable lunch.

It’s amazing how technology

Acceleration

vital for sales in carbon emission obsessed European markets.

An East Africa-based Jaguar Land

Being a Land Rover, superb offroad performance comes as standard; in fact, it is pretty much written into the marque’s DNA

The punchy 2.2 SD4 model comes with a nine-speed automatic or six-

moves on so quickly but impercep-

speed manual gearbox and offers a

We will have at least nine variants to

tibly, and how SUVs can seemingly

meaty 190 PS translating into a 0 to

give the potential customer a choice

be transformed in a generation from

100 kph acceleration time of about

between the two different engines

asthmatic tanks into sprightly, light-

8.5 seconds – not bad for a less-than-

and spec levels.”

on-their feet performers.

aerodynamic 4x4. Using the vehicle’s

The dealer added: “We see the

eco mode fuel-saving option,

Disco Sport as a compact Discov-

Rover Discovery Sport (DS). Gone is

owners can expect a 15 per cent

ery, much the same as the hugely

the brutal profile of bygone Discos to

improvement on the old Freelander’s

successful Range Rover Sport (RRS) (is

be replaced by something that looks

consumption figures.

So please welcome the new Land

remarkably like an older brother to the manufacturer’s now defunct and

42

Land Rover says a smaller and more fuel-efficient eD4 turbo-diesel

CHOICE

Different engines and spec levels to suit everyone

to the Range Rover). The RRS created a huge following for those who wanted the Range Rover experience,

DRIVE: LAND ROVER DISCOVERY SPORT

but in a more compact package.”

For those who love to be

to enhance off-road agility.

All very well, but when can we

bombarded with information, there’s

expect to see the new DS in East

an all-new eight-inch touch screen

Africa? It’s understood that the first

infotainment system with intuitive

consignment of DS models will arrive

controls and heightened connectivity

in Tanzania between mid April and

plus a Head Up Display that projects

mid May and at roughly the same time

key driving data onto the windscreen.

in neighbouring Kenya and Uganda.

Technology

out there which might be seen as

Being a Land Rover, superb off-road

down and actually compare specs,

performance comes as standard; in

versatility, comfort, market position-

fact, it is pretty much written into

ing and all the virtues a Land Rover

the marque’s DNA. The new model

undoubtedly has to offer, then this

has a variety of all-terrain technol-

car has few if any real direct competi-

ogy including Terrain Response® and

tors in what’s described as the

Wade Sensing™ (this Disco can travel

premium compact SUV market.

At first sight, there are several 4x4s

through water up to 600 mm deep

rivals to the DS; but when you sit INTERIOR DESIGN Sleek interiors with high-tech features

Yet it remains to be seen, however,

without a snorkel) as well as Active

whether the new DS is really man

Driveline, which switches seamlessly

enough for all that East Africa can

between two- and four-wheel drive.

throw at. Maybe, when the truth is

The DS also comes with the following

told, this new Land Rover is a mere

features, many of which are unique

soft-roader for townies (and there is

to Land Rover: Hill Descent Control®,

nothing wrong with that) rather than

Gradient Release Control®, Roll

a hairy-chested, export strength,

Stability Control, Dynamic Stability

go-anywhere SUV designed for those

Control, Electronic Traction Control

weekends in the bush that its sister

and Engine Drag Torque Control.

Discovery and Range Rover models

There’s also an all-new multi-link axle

handle so well.

■

auricair.com

43

AURIC AIR ROUTE MAP

Entebbe

Buboka

Rubondo

Masai Mara

Mwanza

Serengeti

Arusha Lake Manyara

Kahama

Kigoma

Mahale

Tabora

TA N Z A N I A

Zanzibar

Dodoma

Mpanda

Pemba

Tanga

Morogoro

Katavi

DAR ES SALAAM

Ruaha Iringa Sumbawanga

Mafia

N

Songea

auricair.com

45

TRAVEL INFORMATION

TRAVEL INFORMATION

VISA INFORMATION Most people will require a visa to enter Tanzania. Usually a tourist visa is issued, unless you are travelling on business, in which case you require a different visa.

Any traveller into Tanzania who is from a non-Commonwealth country – unless there is an agreement between the traveller’s country and Tanzania, in which case the visa is waived – will require a valid visa to gain entry. Citizens from the following Commonwealth countries will, however, require a visa to enter Tanzania: United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, New Zealand and Australia.

Tanzania visas can be obtained from the following: › Entry points into the United Republic of

Tanzania such as Dar es Salaam International Airport and Zanzibar Airport.

› The office of the Director of Immigration

Services, Dar es Salaam, and the office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar.

› Tanzania High Commissions or embassies

abroad.

KENYAN VISAS All visitors entering Kenya – except those who are citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay – require a visa.

These cost US$ 50 for a single entry visa. You can also purchase a multiple entry visa for US$ 100.

Visa application forms can be completed online ahead of your travels, or on arrival in Kenya.

Quality Electrical Products Wide range of domestic, industrial, mining, distribution power lines and home appliances

+255 765 11 8888 or 715 30 3793 sales@tropicalint.com www.tropicalint.com

46

TRAVEL INFORMATION

BAGGAGE Every passenger travelling with Auric Air gets a free baggage allowance as follows: › Adults and children: Checked

baggage of 15 kg, hand baggage of 5 kg

› Infants: Combined checked

CHILDREN Children are welcome on board Auric Air after their 11th birthday.

Unfortunately, before this age, we cannot accept unaccompanied minors. Infants under the age of two weeks will also not be accepted for travel.

baggage and hand baggage of 3 kg.

Excess baggage will be charged per kilogram. Owing to the size and weight restrictions of the aircraft, we cannot guarantee to transport excess baggage on the same flight.

Because of the nature of the aircraft, your baggage must consist of small, soft bags. Metal suitcases with sharp, pointed edges are prohibited.

AURIC AIR CONTACT DETAILS

ANIMALS Animals and pets may travel on our aircraft, subject to criteria such as size and quantity. For more information, please contact our call centre on +255 783 233334.

Auric Air’s Call Centre is open 09:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 17:00 daily.

TRAVEL TIPS To ensure you have the smoothest possible flight, here are some of our top tips for a top trip.

Make sure you arrive in good time, as the check-in desks close 20 minutes before the scheduled departure time. Passengers arriving after this time may not be accepted for travel, and liable for a no-show fee.

Auric Air does not provide alcohol on its aircraft, and passengers are not allowed to bring their own – or any food items – on board. Please bear this in mind before boarding.

All flights are also non-smoking.

Electronic equipment is allowed on board, including mobile telephones, laptops, radios, CD players and handheld games consoles, however for safety reasons, the use of these items may be limited, or forbidden during flying.

MWANZA OFFICE

Auric Air Services Ltd PO Box 336, Mwanza Cell: +255 783 233 334; 255 736 200 849 Email: reservations@auricair.com; auric@auricair.com

DAR ES SALAAM OFFICE

Auric Air Services Ltd T-14, First Floor, Haidery Plaza Upanga/Kisutu Street, Dar es Salaam Tel: (Dar Airport) +255 (0)688 937 165 Tel: (Town Office) +255 (0)688 937 166 Email: auric@auricair.com

GET CONNECTED You can keep in contact with Auric across social media at: www.facebook.com/auricair www.instagram.com/auricair www.twitter.com/auricair

ARUSHA OFFICE

Auric Air Services Ltd TFA Arusha Shopping Centre (Nakumatt) Opp. Kilombero Market Office No 19, West Wing, Arusha Cell: +255 (0)688 723 274 Email: arusha@auricair.com

MORE INFORMATION Head to www.auricair.com/ General/terms for more information on travelling with Auric Air. ■

auricair.com

47

PILOT’S EYE VIEW MOUNTAIN OF LIGHT Snow-capped Kili surrounded by an early morning mist

48