Destination Uganda 2019-20

UGANDA DESTINATION UGANDA 2019-20

www.visituganda.com

The official publication of: THE UGANDA TOURISM BOARD 5th & 6th Floor, Lugogo House Plot 42, Rotary Avenue (Lugogo Bypass) Kampala, Uganda Tel: +256 (414) 342 196/7 Fax: +256 (414) 342 188

www.visituganda.com

CONTENTS 2

FOREWORD

The amazing ‘Pearl of Africa’ and its magic

28 CENTRAL UGANDA

Lively city, relaxing retreats

4 INTRODUCTION

‘Pearl of Africa’ has lost none of its magic

32 BWINDI AND SOUTH-WEST UGANDA

6

RWENZORI

36 QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK

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The legendary snowy source of the Nile still captivates

LOCAL FOOD

Food, glorious food!

13 CULTURAL PERFORMANCES

Uganda welcomes pilgrims of all faiths

16 PARKS AND GAME VIEWING

East meets west to create stunning variety

21 GETTING AROUND | AIRPORTS

Open roads and clear skies

24 FACT FILE

Uganda facts

A magical hour with mountain gorillas Wildlife galore on rift valley floor

38 WESTERN UGANDA

West End offers variety and drama

40 MURCHISON FALLS

A fascinating range of cultural diversity

14 FAITH-BASED TOURISM

Nile is artery sustaining wildlife extravaganza

42 EASTERN & NORTHERN UGANDA

Boundless plains and mountain retreats lie off beaten track

45 JINJA AND THE NILE

Geography, history and high-octane adventure

48 USEFUL CONTACTS 50 TOUR OPERATOR CONTACTS

26 LOCATION UGANDA

Destination Uganda is published by: Land & Marine Publications Ltd 1 Kings Court, Newcomen Way Severalls Business Park Colchester, Essex, CO4 9RA United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1206 752 902 E-mail: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com

The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor nor of any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions.

ISSN 1754-4793 ©2019 Land & Marine Publications Ltd Destination Uganda is available online: qrs.ly/8e9jdjw

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FOREWORD

THE AMAZING ‘PEARL OF AFRICA’ AND ITS MAGIC WELCOME to the latest edition of Destination Uganda – a biennial publication exclusively commissioned by the Uganda Tourism Board (UTB).

revitalised; and Kampala’s new northern by-pass is due for completion in 2021, with a southern bypass to follow.

What’s more, we have already introduced a

Uganda is widely acknowledged to be the Pearl

90-day East African single-entry tourist visa that

of Africa – and perhaps never more so than today.

allows visitors to travel throughout Uganda and

In recent times, our country has been recognised

East Africa by making a single payment of just

as Africa’s coming destination, with international

US$ 100.

travel guides and associations placing Uganda near or at the top of people’s ‘must visit’ list.

So, whatever your reason for visiting Uganda, you’ll find a warm welcome awaiting in the Pearl

It’s not hard to see why – Uganda has so much to

of Africa.

offer. Come and view our habituated mountain gorillas and range of other primates (10 in all).

Enjoy one of the world’s very best birding destinations, with over 1,000 recorded species. Marvel at our shimmering freshwater lakes. Be captivated by our snow-capped mountain ranges and enthralled by our spectacular waterfalls and uncrowded national parks. And revel in our colourful and unique cultures.

Today, visiting – and travelling around – Uganda

LILLY AJAROVA

is easier and more straightforward than ever. We

Chief Executive Officer

are building a new passenger terminal at Entebbe

Uganda Tourism Board

International Airport for completion in 2021; our reborn national airline is poised for take-off in 2019; previously disused railway lines are being

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3

INTRODUCTION

‘PEARL OF AFRICA’ HAS LOST NONE OF ITS MAGIC HUNDREDS of miles to the hear of Africa, Uganda is one of the world’s best kept secrets surrounded by the one of the world’s largest fresh water lakes and green sceneries.

Uganda remained one of the world’s bestkept secrets until the second half of the 19th century.

Africa’s largest lake. Although Uganda stands

Centuries after reaching Tibet, navigating the

Biologically, east meets west in Uganda, classic East

Amazon and landing in Australia, European adven-

African savannah roamed by big game merging

turers finally trekked inland to explore the heart of

with the primate-rich jungles that fill the heart of the

Africa. What they found to fill the gap on their maps

continent. The people are still different, too. Though

was a verdant land of great beauty, endless variety

Ugandans comprise the world’s most ethnically

and dramatic contrasts – and they loved it. Here’s

diverse population, with over 60 tribes, they are

what Winston Churchill had to say in 1907 (we still

collectively linked by a reputation as Africa’s friend-

quote him for the simple reason that nobody has

liest and most hospitable people.

directly on the equator, altitude moderates the temperatures to create a pleasant tropical climate and the country still boasts an unrivalled profusion of life.

EAST MEETS WEST

put it better): What has changed, and which makes a visit to

‘The kingdom of Uganda is a fairy tale. You climb up a railway instead of a beanstalk and at the end there is a wonderful new world. The scenery is different, the vegetation is different, the climate is different and, most of all, the people are different from anything elsewhere to be seen in the whole range of Africa. For magnificence, for variety of form and colour, for profusion of brilliant life – bird, insect,

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Uganda more appealing than ever, is ease of access.

In 1862 the English explorer John Hanning Speke took six months to hike inland from the Kenyan coast. Churchill was more fortunate: the newly constructed railway compressed his trip to three days. You are luckier still: a number of airlines fly direct from Europe in just eight hours.

A century later, Uganda is still unique. Its green

In an exciting new development, Uganda will soon

landscapes are punctuated by A-list geographi-

be taking personal responsibility for bringing you

cal features. The Rwenzori, the continent’s highest

to the ‘Pearl of Africa’. In 2018 the long-defunct

mountain range, towers above the tectonic trench

Uganda Airlines recommenced operations. After

of Africa’s Western Rift Valley, while the Nile, the

establishing itself within the regional network, it

world’s longest river, tumbles out of Lake Victoria,

plans to expand into international routes by 2020.

WELCOME TO UGANDA!

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RWENZORI

THE LEGENDARY SNOWY SOURCE OF THE NILE STILL CAPTIVATES QUEEN Elizabeth National Park is considered one of Uganda’s most scenic destinations, rather curiously since it occupies largely level terrain on the floor of the Albertine Rift Valley. The drama derives from surrounding mountains that encircle the park, namely the bounding escarpments of the rift valley and the 5,100 metre Rwenzori, Africa’s highest mountain range.

that the Nile originated on the equator from the snow-capped Mountains of the Moon. No such range was ever discovered and Ptolemy’s claim was discredited when the English explorer John Hanning Speke located the Source of the Nile at Jinja in 1862. But then, in 1888, the Welsh explorer Henry Morton Stanley reached the rift valley to see a snow-capped mountain known locally as Rwenzori. This also drains into the Nile and Stanley equated it emphatically with Ptolemy’s Mountains

Though the great bulk of the Rwenzori dominates

of the Moon.

the horizon to the north of the park’s tourism hub on the Mweya Peninsula, for most of the year its summits are enveloped by cloud, thus conceal-

APPRECIATING RWENZORI

ing the full drama between foothills that nudge

From the above tale, one can appreciate that it is

the equator and peaks so lofty they support

perfectly possible to enjoy the Rwenzori armed

permanent snow and ice.

only with a history book, ideally while staying at a lodge near Queen Elizabeth National Park or Kibale

But then the Rwenzori is a peculiarly shy and

Forest with a waragi (name of a locally brewed gin)

reluctant mountain – one which kept its secrets

and tonic at sundowner time, when the reluctant

intact for millennia. Concealed by cloud and

snows are most frequently seen.

guarded by natural obstacles, it was the last

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major mountain range in Africa to be described

For most visitors, a glimpse of the equato-

by European explorers. This itself is curious,

rial snow is sufficient. To fully appreciate the

because for 17 centuries prior to its ‘discovery’

Rwenzori, however, you need to climb the

the Rwenzori was linked to a mystery that baffled

mountain. It has to be said that this is no easy

the pharaohs of Egypt as well as Julius Caesar

task. The paths are rough and rocky and condi-

and Alexander the Great: the nature and location

tions are steep, cold, usually wet, frequent misty

of the source of the River Nile. All contemporary

and extremely muddy. Following Stanley’s 1888

attempts to locate it were defeated by swamps,

sighting, the mountain repelled numerous expe-

desert and jungle and geographers resorted to

ditions before the Italian Duke of Abruzzi finally

hearsay; as in 150 AD when Ptolemy suggested

reached the summit in 1906.

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RWENZORI

Forget Gortex hiking boots; your best friend will be a five-dollar pair of gumboots from a local market.

Accommodation, in a series of spartan mountain huts, will be basic and so will the food, since all supplies, and one’s own luggage, are carried by porters – stocky mountain men of remarkable stamina from the local Konzo tribe. Depending on the route, climbers will spend at least six nights on the mountain if they intend to reach the 5,109 metre Margerita peak.

THE REAL REWARD Reaching the top is not essential, however; the real reward is the journey through the bizarre vegetation zones unique to East Africa’s highest mountains.

The ascent begins conventionally enough through montane forest and grey-green groves of bamboo, but these are the lull before a storm of colour. In the heather forest beyond, red and gold mosses carpet rocks and bandage the limbs of heather trees, some 15 metres in height, with bulbous, dripping tumours. More monstrous plants await in the glacier-carved valleys below the peaks. Lobelias form geometrically perfect rosettes a metre wide, while 5 metre groundsel stems are topped with gigantic, spinach-like heads.

Protected within the boundaries of the Rwenzori botanical ‘big game’ seems assured.

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Martin Mwaura / Shutterstock.com

Mountain National Park, the future of the mountains’

LOCAL FOOD

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD! WHEN it comes to food, Uganda combines the best of all worlds with a wide range of local and international dishes. These are made possible by a kaleidoscopic variety of fruit and vegetables that grows here in abundance thanks to the country’s fertile soils and warm, wet climate. To borrow the words of Winston Churchill, Ugandans live in ‘a beautiful garden where the staple food of the people grows almost without labour’.

Since Churchill’s visit in 1907, these ‘staple foods’ have been supplemented by introduced plants and animals that grow with equal enthusiasm. Menus have expanded to make full use of this variety and you can expect to find continental, Italian and Indian dishes in major towns and tourist centres across the country. Not surprisingly, though, the greatest choice is in Kampala which has become a diner’s paradise in recent years. In addition to the above, you’ll find Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Greek, Lebanese, Persian, Vietnamese, Ghanaian, Tex-Mex and even KFC on offer – surely something to please everyone.

Visitors should also try local specialities. Indeed, an appreciation of Ugandan produce begins with your

Rashad Mammadov / Shutterstock.com

morning cup of tea – invariably an infusion of leaves plucked from the plantations of Toro, on the edge of Kibale Forest. Those who prefer coffee should insist that it’s ground from Arabica beans harvested on the waterfall-streaked slopes of Mount Elgon, on the Uganda-Kenya border.

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LOCAL FOOD

At breakfast, it’s absolutely fine to call for the full

to soldiers psyching up for the fray. Now triple-

English or a pancake drizzled with local acacia

distilled by Uganda Breweries, waragi is mixed with

honey – no bad idea if you’ll be spending the day

a long tonic or bitter lemon to create a refreshing

tracking gorillas or chimpanzees through jungle. But

sundowner.

make a point of sampling the produce from a fruit table groaning with local papayas, water melons, passion fruit, oranges, pineapples, apples, mangoes and bananas.

FISH But if terrestrial Uganda is a banana republic, a further fifth of the country is covered by water,

MATOKE

making tilapia and Nile perch an important food

In fact, bananas will keep you going all day long

country’s many lakes. Tilapia has a particularly

in Uganda. The local staple is matoke, a green-

sweet and delicate flavour and a whole fish, up to

skinned plantain that is mashed and steamed and

50 cm long, fried and served on a giant platter with

wrapped in a parcel made from the huge, canoe-

a mountain of chips, makes a fun communal feast.

shaped leaves of the banana tree. This is best eaten

It’s strictly dining with fingers. When the first side

with meat served in a spicy gravy or a distinctive

has been picked clean, flip it over like an old-style

pink groundnut (peanut) sauce. Another savoury

LP record and enjoy Side 2.

for people living along the river and beside the

favourite is the gonja banana. Fried or roasted at roadside grills, it provides travellers with a tasty

Above all, don’t miss Uganda’s main contribu-

filler. Bogoya approximates to the dessert banana

tion to international cuisine: an egg, onion and

that many visitors will know from home – familiar

cabbage omelette rolled up in a chapati. Don’t

and filling. But many will prefer the short, stubby

ask for a plate of ‘rolled eggs’, though, or you’ll

fingers of ndizi, the apple banana. Delightfully

be met with a blank look. The correct term is

sweet, it is too delicate for export, so enjoy it while

‘rolex’. A filling snack at any time of day, the rolex

you can.

originated in street barbecues but has since been admitted to the menus of upmarket hotels and

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There is more to bananas than snacks and staples,

lodges – usually with a few special variations on

though. The kayinja banana is fermented and

the standard recipe. Ugandans celebrate their

distilled to produce waragi, the national spirit. A

invention by holding an annual Rolex Festival

corruption of ‘war gin’, Uganda waragi was originally

during which Kampala’s top chefs compete for the

a potent firewater served in immoderate quantities

title of Rolex King.

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CULTURAL PERFORMANCES

A FASCINATING RANGE OF CULTURAL DIVERSITY WITH over 40 distinct tribal groups, Uganda has a rich culture that is varied and full of contrast.

Language both unites and divides the tribes.

Although the Bakonzo of western Mount Rwenzori and the Bagisu of Mount Elgon in the east face each

Central to the history and culture of Uganda are

languages overlap sufficiently for basic comprehen-

five traditional kingdoms. Busoga lies to the east

sion. The Bagisu, however, have no idea what their

of the Nile while Buganda occupies the west side

immediate neighbours are saying. The Sebei origi-

around Kampala. To the north, Bunyoro centres on

nated in the Horn of Africa and their Nilotic language

Hoima town, while Toro lies around Fort Portal, east

is no more comprehensible to the Bagisu than

of the Rwenzori Mountains. Further south, Ankole

Chinese to an English-speaker.

Rashad Mammadov / Shutterstock.com

other across 500 km of central plateau, their Bantu

covers the cattle-keeping country around Mbarara.

In addition are three prominent ethnic groups –

The members of Uganda’s tribes and kingdoms

Karamojongs and Ik in the north and the Batwa in

are particularly proud of their traditional dances,

southwestern Uganda.

accompanied by compositions played on regionally distinctive instruments. One might embark on a

Each of the kingdoms has its own distinctive culture

nationwide tour to explore this remarkable variety –

and tradition. The Baganda, for example, are divided

and it would be a long one if you intended to do the

among 51 clans, each with a totem named after a

subject justice.

The Ndere Centre is

plant or animal. In Bunyoro and Toro, newborns are given an ‘empako’ or ‘praise name.’ There is a choice

If time is short, however, you can experience a

located in Ntinda in

of 12, each associated with an animal (for example,

splendid cultural synopsis by heading to Kampala’s

north-east Kampala,

cat), characteristic (for example, affection) or

Ndere Centre, home of the famous Ndere Troupe,

just off the Ntinda-

attribute (for example, diplomacy).

where a purpose-built auditorium and outdoor

Kisaasi roundabout on

arena provide the setting for thrilling performances

the Northern Bypass.

Not all Ugandans are subjects of a kingdom and

of music and dance. Visitors are invited to join in;

there are many additional tribes. On the plains of

Uganda would not be Africa’s most hospitable

eastern Uganda, lanky Karamojong pastoralists live in

country otherwise. Girls can shake to the Bagisu

manyattas – cell-like clusters of thorn-fenced enclo-

kadodi while their men jump with fellow warriors in

sures. At the other extreme, both geographically and

the competitive pogo of Karamoja. Not to be missed,

in stature, Batwa pygmies, Uganda’s oldest ethnic

an Ndere event is a frenetic experience that leaves

group, bivouac on forest margins in the mountainous

the performers exhausted, the audience drained and

south-west.

everybody happy.

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FAITH BASED TOURISM

UGANDA WELCOMES PILGRIMS OF ALL FAITHS TOWARDS the end of the 19th century, the faith of Uganda’s nascent Christians and Muslim sects was tested to the limit. Matters came to a head in 1886 when Mwanga, the king of Buganda, ordered the converts to renounce their new religions or pay the ultimate price. Dozens, perhaps hundreds, defied their king and chose to die, most notably on 3 June when over 100 faithfuls were killed and many burned alive.

canonisation of the Catholic martyrs. The anniversary is a huge occasion as up to a million pilgrims – traditionally from East Africa but increasingly from all over the world – converge on the 25 hectare site to celebrate High Mass.

SPECIALISTS Feeding, accommodating and transporting a million people for an annual one-day event is something Uganda has been managing for years.

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Their courage and devotion has not been forgotten.

Now, given the current trend for categorising all

Each year, on the anniversary of the atrocity, the

aspects of travel and tourism, Ugandans realise

people of Uganda and Eastern Africa reaffirm

they are specialists in faith-based tourism (FBT):

their own commitment to God as they remember

the provision of transport, lodging, food, beverages

Mwanga’s victims and celebrate the survival of their

and other related travel and hospitality services for

religions during this dark time.

people of faith or those travelling to places of faith.

Martyrs’ Day remembers everyone – Christians,

Martyrs’ Day is the highlight of the FBT calendar in

Jews and Muslims alike – who have died in Uganda

Uganda, but visitors can immerse themselves in the

for their religious beliefs. However, the day’s events

nation’s religious past and present all year round. The

focus on the Kampala suburb of Namugongo, where

recently opened Martyrs’ Trail follows events leading

45 Catholics and Protestants were burned alive. The

up to the Namugongo executions. The route starts

actual site of the executions is occupied by a Prot-

at Munyonyo, where the converts were arrested at

estant shrine and museum. Expanded for a visit by

Mwanga’s lakeside palace, and traces their route

Pope Francis in November 2015, the centrepiece is

to Namugongo. An imposing church at Munyonyo,

a graphic array of bronze statuary that depicts the

built to mark the recent visit of Pope Francis in

diverse methods of torture and execution suffered

2015, remembers St Andrew Kaggwa, who was

by the victims. However, the main events of 3 June

killed before the march began. Another memorial,

take place nearby at the Catholic Basilica of the

in Busega in western Kampala, reminds us that,

Uganda Martyrs, an imposing metal structure built

despite their extraordinary conviction and courage,

in 1964 to mark the visit of Pope Paul VI and the

the martyrs were often teenagers or even children.

Adam Jan Figel / Shutterstock.com

Isabelle Prondzynski | Wikimedia Commons | CC-BY-SA-2.0

Joseph Lugalama, for example, was just 12 years

the Bible into the local language; Alexander Mackay,

old when he was speared and thrown into Busega

who built the first church; Sir Albert Ruskin Cook,

Swamp, while his companions were 16 and 17.

the missionary doctor who built the country’s first

doxomimesis / Shutterstock.com

hospital; and Ham Mukasa, who narrowly escaped Further afield, beyond the source of the Nile at Jinja,

martyrdom in 1886 and lived to serve the govern-

a covered shrine shelters the rock on which James

ment of Buganda for many years.

Hannington, the first Anglican Bishop of East Africa, was murdered in 1885, again on Mwanga’s orders, as

Visitors of all faiths are welcome to visit the imposing

he journeyed to visit his Bugandan parish.

Old Kampala Mosque, at the foot of Namirembe Hill, said to be the largest in sub-Saharan Africa.

NAMIREMBE CATHEDRAL

It was initiated by Idi Amin in the 1970s and finally

Not all FBT sites in Uganda involve martyrdom. In the

in 2006. A focus for Jewish visitors is Nabugoye

graveyard outside Kampala’s Namirembe Cathedral,

Hill, near Mbale, in eastern Uganda, home of the

tourists can pay their respects to a number of pivotal

Abaduyaya community, which has been observing

figures including George Pilkington, who translated

Jewish customs and rituals since the 1920s.

completed with funding from Muammar Gaddafi

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PARKS AND GAME VIEWING

EAST MEETS WEST TO CREATE STUNNING VARIETY A GLANCE at the map of East Africa gives three important clues to why a tour of Uganda’s national parks is such a memorable experience.

Uganda’s compact size – half that of neighbouring Kenya and a quarter the area of Tanzania – and the proximity of contrasting savannah and forest habitats concentrate the excitement of a western tour. Imagine, for example, tracking mountain

Firstly, eight of Uganda’s 10 parks are in the west

gorillas through Bwindi forest in the morning and

of the country. Secondly, Uganda, which is roughly

then, after a drive of just 60 km, watching lions

the same size as the UK, is only a fraction of the

lounge in the boughs of fig trees. Or following

size of neighbouring safari destinations. And finally,

chimpanzees through the forests of Kibale before

fresh water is clearly abundant; indeed a fifth of

descending to the hot rift valley floor to watch

the country is open water or wetland.

hippos and elephants from a launch on the Kazinga Channel.

THE WEST The westerly skew of its national parks reflects

WATER

the fact that the Albertine Rift Valley follows

Water, in its various forms, is central to the

Uganda’s western border. Along this tectonic

Ugandan tourism experience. Visitors can crunch

trench, bird and primate species from the

across snow and glacial ice towards the peaks

Congo forests merge with the big game of the

in Rwenzori Mountains National Park and push

East African savannah. In western Uganda’s

through curtains of mist to find forest chimps

three grassland parks – Murchison Falls, Queen

and gorillas. Water is surprisingly abundant, too,

Elizabeth and Lake Mburo – visitors can expect to

even in the seasonally arid setting of Uganda’s

see elephant, lion, giraffe, zebra, buffalo, hippo,

grassland parks. Meltwater from the Rwenzori

crocodile and numerous species of antelope.

provides year-round water for wildlife living beside

Collectively, the forested parks contain 16 primate

the 40 km Kazinga Channel in Queen Elizabeth

species, including chimpanzees in the Kibale,

National Park. Murchison Falls National Park is

Murchison Falls and Queen Elizabeth national

bisected by the life-giving River Nile, while Lake

parks, and, of course, mountain gorillas in the

Mburo National Park is sustained by a string

Bwindi Impenetrable and Mgahinga Gorilla

of lakes and connecting wetlands. All of these

national parks.

parks provide opportunities to view wildlife by boat, the best known being the launch trip in

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PARKS AND GAME VIEWING

Murchison Falls National Park, which cruises up the Nile, past wallowing hippos and basking crocodiles, to the bottom of the thunderous waterfall.

Water does much to extend Uganda’s already exciting bird list, too. Waterbirds of all shapes and sizes crowd the banks of the Kazinga Channel, while at Murchison Falls an expanse of riverine swamp is home to the curious shoebill and other wetland rarities.

AN EXPERIENCE A tour of western Uganda is a diverse and stimulating experience, alternating between forest, mountain and savannah parks, each with its own distinctive activities. In the grasslands, visitors can locate their big game favourites using vehicles, boats, horses and even hot air balloons. To find our forest-dwelling ape cousins, on the other hand, the only option is to don sensible footwear and start walking. Throw in the dramatic rift valley setting and the fabulous montane backdrops of the Rwenzori massif and the Virunga volcanoes and the result is an itinerary that travel writer Philip Briggs describes, in the ‘Bradt Guide to Uganda’, as ‘the most varied safari circuit anywhere in Africa’.

Don’t just take Philip’s word for it, though. Come to Uganda and see for yourself.

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GETTING AROUND / AIRPORTS

OPEN ROADS AND CLEAR SKIES MOST visitors opt to tour Uganda by road – quite feasibly, since it is no larger than the United Kingdom. Good sealed highways radiate outwards from Kampala to regional towns; and although the onward journey to the national parks is often along murram roads, the road network is improving all the time. Tarmac has greatly improved access to Mgahinga and southern Bwindi in south-west Uganda and to the isolated Kidepo Valley National Park in the far north-west.

Tourists are also enjoying a major improvement to the start of their safari. In 2018 a brand-new expressway connected Entebbe with western Kampala, allowing safari-goers to skirt the congested capital and travel directly between the airport and destinations in western Uganda.

AERIAL VIEWS Travelling by road across Uganda is always a lively experience owing to its diverse landscape. The scenery is undoubtedly impressive at ground level – but it’s even more spectacular from the air. Today, aerial views of Uganda are more accessible and affordable than ever thanks to Aerolink’s regular scheduled flights between Entebbe and airstrips located in or near all the national parks. Especially popular is the two-hour direct flight from Entebbe to Kidepo Valley National Park, avoiding a drive of at least 10 hours to this remote park.

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GETTING AROUND / AIRPORTS Aerolink also flies to Murchison Falls National

safety standards. It’s hard to resist the attraction of

Park’s Pakuba airstrip and to Kasese Airport, close

a 90-minute flight to destinations such as Bwindi

to Queen Elizabeth and Kibale national parks. The

and Kidepo Valley compared with a road journey of

60-minute flight between these locations follows

some 500 km. You’ll arrive fresher, too, and ready

the Albertine Rift Valley, providing views of Lake

to enjoy your safari.

Albert and the Rwenzori mountains while avoiding a bumpy nine-hour drive.

CARBON-NEUTRAL

EASY AND CONVENIENT

Interestingly enough, your environmental footprint

Going by air is, of course, the easiest and most

Fly Uganda is Africa’s first wholly carbon-neutral

convenient way to reach Uganda and various

aviation company.

global carriers fly into Entebbe International Airport. The most direct routes from Europe are operated by Brussels Airlines and KLM. Other services are provided by Emirates, Ethiopian Airlines, Etihad Airways, Kenya Airways, RwandAir and Turkish Airlines, but involve detours via their home-country airports. It’s worth bearing in mind that Entebbe is 450 km from the gorilla tracking sites in Bwindi. By flying to Kigali with RwandAir or its partner, Brussels Airlines, the long overland journey to trailheads in Mgahinga and southern Bwindi is reduced to just 160 km.

Watch, too, for flights to Uganda with the nation’s very own Uganda Airlines. Opening in 2019, Uganda’s national carrier will start as a regional operator before expanding to international routes.

MARVEL A flight over Uganda is a safari in itself, whether you opt for a scheduled flight or a private charter.

There are opportunities to fly over the lakes, cliffs and waterfalls of the Western Rift Valley; catch the spray of Murchison Falls; gaze down on pods of hippo along the Kazinga Channel; marvel at the glacial valleys of the Rwenzori (without a seven-day trek); view the primeval plains and mountain ranges of Karamoja; and speed over vast wetlands of emerald-green papyrus.

Not only do these flights offer spectacular views, but they carry the reassurance of international

22

may be lighter in the air than on the ground, as

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FACT FILE

UGANDA FACTS ADMINISTRATIVE DIVISIONS: 121 districts across

ETHNIC GROUPS: Acholi, Alur, Bagisu, Bagwere,

four administrative regions.

Bakiga, Bakonzo, Banyankore, Banyarwanda, Banyole, Banyoro, Basoga, Batoro, Buganda, Iteso,

AREA: 93,065 sq km (76,100 sq km of land and,

Japadhola, Kakwa, Karamojong, Kumam, Lango,

water 16,965 sq km of water).

Lugbara, Madi, Nubian, Samia and Teso. Also European and others.

BORDERS: Uganda has a total of 2,698 km of borders (Democratic Republic of Congo 765 km,

ELECTRICITY: 240 volts AC 50 Hz. Square-pin

Kenya 933 km, Rwanda 169 km, Sudan 435 km,

plugs mostly used.

Tanzania 396 km).

EXCHANGE RATE: US$ 1 = UGX 3,661 (Feb 2019).

BANKING HOURS: Mon to Fri 8.30 am to 5.00 pm; Sat 9.00 am to 12.00 pm.

HISTORY: Uganda gained independence from Britain in 1962, maintaining its Commonwealth

BUSINESS HOURS: Mon to Fri 8.30 am to 5.30

membership.

pm.

INDUSTRIES: Coffee, cotton, steel, sugar, tea, texCAPITAL: Kampala.

tiles and tobacco.

CLIMATE: Tropical. Rainy seasons March to

GEOGRAPHY: Uganda is landlocked. The south of

May and September to November; dry seasons

the country includes a substantial portion of Lake

December to February and mid June to mid

Victoria. The centre is dominated by Lake Kyoga.

about 16°C (61°F) in the south-western highlands

LANGUAGES: English and Swahili are the official

to 25°C (77°F) in the north-west; but in the north-

languages. Luganda, a central language, is widely

east temperatures exceed 30°C (86°F) about 254

spoken across the country. Several other lan-

days per year.

guages are also spoken.

CURRENCY: Uganda shilling (UGX).

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS: 1 January, 26 January (Liberation Day), 16 February (Archbishop Janani Luwum

24

ELEVATIONS: Highest point: Margherita Peak on

Day), 8 March (International Women’s Day), Good

Mount Stanley at 5,109 metres.

Friday, Easter Monday, 1 May (Labour Day), 3

MaxPalla / Shutterstock.com

August. Mean annual temperatures range from

June (Martyrs’ Day), 5 June (Eid-al-Fitr), 9 June (National Heroes’ Day), 12 August (Eid-al-Adha), 9 October (Independence Day), 25 December (Christmas Day), 26 December (Boxing Day).

POPULATION: 45.1 million (Feb 2019 estimate).

INTERNATIONAL DIALLING CODE: +256.

TIME: GMT +3.

RELIGIONS: Christian over 84 per cent, Muslim around 14 per cent, other 1.4 per cent, none 0.2 per

TOPOGRAPHY: The greater part of Uganda consists of a plateau. Along the western border are the Rwenzori Mountains. The eastern frontier is dominated by Mount Elgon, while the Western Rift Valley runs from north to south through the western half of the country.

Dennis Wegewijs / Shutterstock.com

cent (2014 census).

25

LOCATION UGANDA

SOUTH SUDAN Rivers

Kidepo Valley National Park

Roads International Border

Moyo

National Parks and Wildlife Reserves

Kitgum

Gorillas

G l Gulu

O ra

Chimpanzees

Asw

Kotido Matheniko Wildlife Reserve

a

Moroto

Nebbi

Monkeys

Pakwach N i l e ia Vi c

50 Kilometers 25

KENYA

Nil

Butterflies

Alb

Ajai Wildlife Reserve

Trekking

0

Kaabong

NORTHERN

er t

Arua

Game

25

ger

e

Birdwatching

0

Pa

Atiak

tor

Ok

Lira

ok

O

Bokora Wildlife Reserve

Murchison Falls National Park

50 Miles

k e re

Apac Lake Albert

DRC

Kabwoya Wildlife Reserve

Butiaba

Budongo Forest

Lake Kwania

Masindi

Hoima

Soroti

go go

Pallisa

Kiboga

Semliki National Park

Bundibugyo

Fort Portal Kyenjojo

Katonga Wildlife Reserve

Ka

Kasese Lake George

WESTERN

Queen Elizabeth National Park

Kigezi Wildlife Reserve

Lyantonde

Mbarara Ntungamo

Lake Mburo National Park

ga

Masaka

Mabamba Swamp

J Jinja

KAMPALA

Tororo

Iganga

Mabira Forest BUVMA ISLAND

ENTEBBE

SSESE ISLANDS Kalangala

Bushenyi

Rukungiri

Mukono

EASTERN B b ti Busembatia

CENTRAL Mpigi

ton

Kamulii

Bombo

Mityana

Kibale National Park

Rwenzori National Park

Lake Edward

Mubende

Mt Elgon National Park

Mbale

Luwero

Kagadi

Kapchorwa

Lu

Nk us i

Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve

Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve

Kumi

Lake Kyoga Ka fu

Lake Bisina

Rakai

Lake Victoria

AFRICA

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

Kabale Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

RWANDA 26

Uganda

CENTRAL UGANDA

Shujaa_777 / Shutterstock.com

LIVELY CITY, RELAXING RETREATS UGANDA’S gateway for international tourists is Entebbe International Airport, close to Entebbe town, the old colonial capital, 35 km south of Kampala, the busy modern capital city.

dominated by flat-topped hills separating ancient,

For safari-goers with a fixed itinerary, Entebbe

KAMPALA: Uganda’s bustling capital is by far its

is the staging point before and after a visit to

largest urban centre, with a population of over

the natural attractions of western Uganda. The

1.5 million. The fast-growing city has a distinctive

brand-new Entebbe-Kampala Expressway skirts

setting on a series of prominent hills near Lake

the capital, enabling visitors to head west with

Victoria. Although Kampala has long outgrown its

a minimum of delay. However, visitors with time

historical title of City of Seven Hills, the original

to spare will find a multitude of diversions to

summits remain focal points, topped by distinc-

occupy them in Kampala and throughout Central

tive landmarks of cultural, religious and colonial

Uganda.

significance.

RETREATS

Nakasero Hill provides visitors with striking

swamp-filled valleys draining into lakes Victoria and Kyoga.

KEY ATTRACTIONS

contrasts on either side of Kampala Road, the Kampala offers all the amenities of a modern

main thoroughfare. Uphill, modern and colonial

capital, while Entebbe provides a relaxing

buildings, many occupied by quality restaurants

retreat beside Lake Victoria. While the national

and hotels, line the green and leafy avenues.

parks are several hours’ drive from Kampala,

Downhill, congested streets descend to colourful

the Central Region contains tracts of tropical

markets, chaotic bus parks and a gridlock

forest, wetland and lake shores where birds and

of vehicles, boda bodas (moped taxis) and

primates can be found.

pedestrians.

CLIMATE: Tropical, tempered by altitude (1,200

Kampala is a safe city to explore and the landmark

metres above sea level). Temperatures rarely

hills can be visited with just a map and guidebook.

rise above 30°C (85°F) or fall below 18°C (65ºF).

Alternatively, further insights into urban life will

January is the hottest month.

result from a guided walking or boda boda tour, or a comfortable excursion aboard the double-decker

LANDSCAPE: The scenery of Central Uganda is

28

Kampala Sightseeing Bus.

emre topdemir / Shutterstock.com Nurlan Mammadzada / Shutterstock.com

Andreas Marquardt / Shutterstock.com

A RICH HERITAGE A number of historical sites in and around Kampala relate to a time of dramatic change in the late 19th century when the Baganda encountered Islamic traders and British colonialists and missionaries.

Several stand on the city’s original seven hills. They include the Protestant Cathedral at Namirembe, the Catholic Cathedral at Rubaga, Fort Lugard in Old Kampala and the Kabaka’s Palace at Lubiri. Further afield are the Kasubi and Wamala Tombs, Katereke Prison Ditch, Naggalabi Coronation Site and the Namugongo Martyrs’ Shrine. These locations were pivotal locations during a rumbustious period of Ugandan history.

Contemporary culture comes to life at Kampala’s Ndere Centre, which has a colourful programme of music and dance displays.

29

CENTRAL UGANDA

Kampala offers a wide choice of accommodation

cruises, boat trips to Ngamba Island Chimpanzee

including several five-star hotels as well as decent

Sanctuary and resorts on the Ssese archipelago,

mid-range hotels and popular backpacker hostels.

and sport fishing for the mammoth Nile perch.

LAKE VICTORIA: Access from Entebbe Inter-

Coming ashore, the town’s Botanical Garden

national Airport to resorts on Lake Victoria’s

introduces the visitor to a variety of tropical trees,

Murchison Bay has been transformed by a new

birds and monkeys while, a few kilometres west,

dual carriageway. The opulent Lake Victoria

Mabamba Swamp is the best place in Central

Serena Hotel and Speke Commonwealth Resort

Uganda to find the rare shoebill. The aviary in

are now just half an hour from the airport, while

Entebbe’s Wildlife Education Centre – a sanctuary

an additional 20-minute boat transfer from the

for a variety of rescued and orphaned wildlife – is a

Speke marina reaches tranquil lodges on the rustic

popular Plan B for those seeking this fabled bird.

eastern side of the bay.

BOOKLIST: Charles Miller, ‘The Lunatic Express’ ENTEBBE: Located on the shore of Lake Victoria,

Thomas Packenham, ‘The Scramble for Africa’

Entebbe is a small, quiet town with a diminu-

Philip Briggs and Andrew Roberts, ‘Bradt Guide

tive centre between the hilltop State House, the

to Uganda’

official residence of the President of Uganda, and the lakeshore golf course. A century ago it was the gateway to Uganda when steamers brought visitors, among them Winston Churchill and Theodore Roosevelt, across the lake from the Uganda Railway terminus at Kisumu in Kenya.

Although the steamer service ended when the railway reached Kampala in 1931, the airport means that Entebbe is still the main entry point for international arrivals. Consequently, a wide selection of large hotels and guesthouses caters for tourists and other travellers.

ATTRACTIONS: The lake is central to the Entebbe

FRIENDLY PEOPLE The people of Kampala – and Ugandans in general – are friendly and approachable.

Although, today, Kampala is a social and cultural melting pot, it remains the historical capital of the regional kingdom of Buganda, home of the Baganda, Uganda’s most numerous people. The Baganda are intensely proud of their kabaka (king) and history and traditions dating back to the 16th century.

experience and popular activities include sunset

31

BWINDI AND SOUTH-WEST UGANDA

A MAGICAL HOUR WITH MOUNTAIN GORILLAS DOWN in the remote south-western corner on the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo lies Mountain Gorilla Country – Uganda’s foremost tourist destination.

heavy rain can fall at any time of year. Evening temperatures are cool.

LANDSCAPE: Bwindi constitutes an island of remnant forest in a densely cultivated region of hills and deep valleys adjoining the Albertine Rift

Here, set in a regional landscape of extraordinary drama and variety, the national parks of Mgahinga and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest sustain a remark-

Valley and the Virunga volcanoes.

ATTRACTIONS

able diversity of plants, birds and mammals, most notably, mountain gorilla. This endangered ape has

BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST: A unique wildlife

a total population of only 1000 and is found only in

experience. One of Africa’s oldest forests, it is

Bwindi Forest and on the nearby Virunga volcanoes.

also one of the most biodiverse, with 200 species of tree, 350 birds, 310 butterflies, 88 moths,

EXCLUSIVE

51 reptiles and 120 mammals including several

Encountering mountain gorillas in their natural

tion, the mountain gorilla. Bwindi has 18 habituated

habitat is one of the world’s premier wildlife

gorilla groups, which are tracked from four trail-

encounters – one that more than justifies the long

heads. Eight permits are available for each group,

journey to this remote corner of Africa. Although

giving a daily maximum of 144 permits. Gorilla

gorillas are undeniably intelligent and impressive

tracking takes two to eight hours depending on

creatures to watch – a silverback can weigh over

the location of the group. Be prepared for some

200 kg (450 lb) – the greatest rewards are less

strenuous exercise on the steep, densely vegetated

tangible. Gorilla and humans are closely related

slopes of the Impenetrable Forest.

primates, most notably the nation’s star attrac-

and many observers experience a profound connection with their ape cousins. Visitors can also take pride in the fact that, by tracking mountain

INSIGHT

gorillas, they are helping to ensure the survival of

Bwindi is also one of Uganda’s top birdwatch-

one of the world’s rarest animals.

ing destinations, with 350 types of bird including many localised Albertine Rift endemic species.

32

CLIMATE: The driest months are January and

On the forest margins, Community Walks provide

February and June to September, although

insights into the village life of the local Bakiga

Travel Stock / Shutterstock.com

people while Batwa Pygmies demonstrate their hunter-gatherer traditions.

MGAHINGA GORILLA NATIONAL PARK: This small park, covering just 38 sq km, has a magnificent setting on the northern slopes of the Virunga volcanoes. Two rare primates – mountain gorillas and golden monkeys – can be tracked. The park’s three extinct volcanoes can be climbed, providing superb regional panoramas. Batwa Pygmy guides demonstrate their traditional forest lore on the Batwa Trail before descending into Garama Cave, once home to the Batwa king, where underground acoustics amplify a memorable musical finale.

LAKE MBURO NATIONAL PARK: The country’s smallest savanna park (370 sq km) provides a welcome stopover on the long drive between Kampala and the gorilla parks of south-western Uganda. Mihingo Lodge, perched atop an ancient granite kopje, is a perfect base for exploring a mosaic of habitats including open water, wetland, grassland, woodland and forest patches. Wildlife species not often seen in other Ugandan parks, such as impala, zebra, eland and topi, can be viewed on game drives, a boat cruise and on horseback.

Travel Stock / Shutterstock.com

MBARARA: A selection of hotels in and around the fast expanding town of Mbarara town, 40 km west of Lake Mburo, offers additional opportunities to break the journey west. Igongo Cultural Centre

33

BWINDI AND SOUTH-WEST UGANDA

and the Biharwe Eclipse Monument testify to the rich culture and long history of the local Ankole pastoralists.

LAKE BUNYONYI: Dotted with islands and enclosed by steep, terraced hills, Africa’s second-deepest lake is unforgettably scenic. Island lodges and camps provide the perfect setting to relax after tracking gorillas.

LAKE MUTANDA: In a region known for scenic highlights, the view across Lake Mutanda towards the Virunga volcanoes stands alone. Accommodation is located to enjoy the panorama while giving access to gorilla tracking trailheads in southern Bwindi.

Kihihi (near Buhoma) and Kisoro (for Mgahinga and the south Bwindi trailheads) take just 90 minutes.

ACCOMMODATION: Lake Mburo and the Bwindi and Mgahinga trailheads are all provided with

over two days, stopping overnight in Lake Mburo or

upmarket and mid-range option lodges. Comfort-

Mbarara. Daily flights from Kampala to airstrips at

able mid-range accommodation is available, too,

Kihihi (near Buhoma) and Kisoro (for Mgahinga and

at lakes Bunyonyi and Mutanda and in the regional

the south Bwindi trailheads) take just 90 minutes.

towns of Kabale and Kisoro.

GETTING THERE

CULTURE AND PEOPLE The Bwindi hills are inhabited by the Bakiga, hard-

The Bwindi trailheads are eight to 10 hours’ drive

working farmers who have created the region’s

from Kampala. Tarmac extends to the towns of

distinctive landscape of steep, terraced hills.

Kabale, Kisoro and Rukungiri, beyond which dirt

Batwa Pygmies inhabit the margins of Bwindi and

roads wind into the hills. The journey is best covered

Mgahinga forests. Village and forest walks afford

over two days, stopping overnight at Lake Mburo or

fascinating insights into the traditional lives of

Mbarara. Daily flights from Kampala to airstrips at

these two groups.

35

QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK

WILDLIFE GALORE ON RIFT VALLEY FLOOR LOCATED on the open rift valley floor, the grasslands of Queen Elizabeth National Park introduce an exciting opportunity to search for big game on the journey between Uganda’s great ape strongholds in Kibale and the Bwindi Impenetrable.

Uganda’s most diverse park, ‘QE’ enjoys a particu-

PEOPLE: Bakonzo farmers live on the slopes of the Rwenzori Mountain, while Basongora pastoralists live on the plains at the base. Bakiga, Banyaraguru and Ankole people live south of the Kazinga Channel.

ATTRACTIONS

larly scenic location between lakes Edward and

CHANNEL CRUISE: The park’s most enduring

George, at the foot of the 5,100 metre Rwenzori

activity is the two-hour launch trip below Mweya

Mountains. Though dominated by grassland, the

Peninsula on Kazinga Channel. The shoreline is

park also contains lakes, rivers, open savannah,

home to crocodiles, hippos and a variety of water-

acacia woodland, tropical forest and vast wet-

birds, while herds of elephant, buffalo, leopard,

lands. Collectively, these support an impressive 95

waterbuck and Uganda kob are regular visitors

mammal species and over 600 species of bird.

from the surrounding savannah.

LION VIEWING

GAME VIEWING: East of Mweya, lion prides are

With boat trips on the 40 km Kazinga Channel,

graze the Kasenyi grasslands. Lion encounters are

a meandering drive among spectacular volcanic

guaranteed by joining the park’s Predator Research

craters, lion viewing on the Kasenyi Plains, chim-

Project as its members monitor radio-tagged

sustained by the large herds of Uganda kob that

panzee tracking in the depths of Kyambura Gorge, walks in the Maramagambo Forest and game drives in the remote wilderness of Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park has plenty to interest any visitor.

CLIMATE: The park experiences two rainy seasons in March to May and August to November. Its location on the low-lying rift valley floor is hotter and drier than most parts of Uganda, with a mean maximum temperature of 28°C (80°F).

36

LANDSCAPE The national park is located on the floor of the Albertine Rift Valley, where it is enclosed by the valley’s bounding escarpments, the Rwenzori Mountains and lakes Edward and George.

GETTING THERE Two roughly equidistant routes, both on good tarmac, lead from Kampala to Mweya in the heart of the park.

The northern approach runs via Fort Portal and the Rwenzori (410 km) while the southern route passes Lake Mburo (420 km). Ishasha, in the southern part of the park, is just 63 km from Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Daily flights from Kampala to airstrips serving the parks northern and southern sectors take 90 minutes.

FOREST WALKS: In the shady Maramagambo Forest, birdwatchers can add forest species to their water and grassland sightings. Chimpanzees and other primates are found in the nearby Kyambura Gorge.

WHERE TO STAY ACCOMMODATION: Options in the park include upmarket lodges and tented camps and basic hostels, cottages and campsites. Additional properties cater for all budgets and standards outside the park boundary.

BIRDWATCHING prides. In the far south of Queen Elizabeth National Park, en route to Bwindi forest, the Ishasha savannah is home to elephant, topi, buffalo and the park’s famous tree-climbing lions.

VOLCANIC CRATERS: The scenic Crater Drive winds for 24 km between extinct volcanic craters filled variously with lakes, forest and savannah.

Flamingos are regular visitors to craters at Kyambura and Katwe. At Katwe Salt Lake, just outside the national park, salt is still produced from evaporation pans using a centuries-old process.

The park’s varied habitats provide opportunities for all birders, from novices to the most fanatical of twitchers. Make easy waterbird sightings on the comfortable Mweya launch or stealthy searches for rare species in the Maramagambo Forest.

The following is just a small selection of rare or remarkable birds: black-rumped buttonquail, broadbilled roller, papyrus gonolek, western-banded snake eagle, African fish eagle, white-backed night heron, Pel’s fishing owl, black bee eater, shoebill, rufusbellied heron, great blue turaco, black-and-white casqued hornbill and African finfoot.

37

WESTERN UGANDA

WEST END OFFERS VARIETY AND DRAMA EUROPEAN explorers who visited Western Uganda in the 19th century were entranced by the region’s wonderful landscapes – and the love affair continues to this day. Indeed, it is more passionate than ever; for if the journeys of Henry Stanley, Emin Pasha et al were complicated by the fact that they didn’t quite know where they were going, modern tourists arrive with high expectations of Uganda’s most exciting region.

CULTURE AND PEOPLE: The Rwenzori is home to the Bakonzo mountain people, while the Semliki valley is inhabited by the Bwamba tribe and a community of Batwa pygmies. The countryside east of the mountain lies in the Kingdom of Toro, home of the Batoro.

MAJOR ATTRACTIONS FORT PORTAL REGION: The landscape around Fort Portal – Uganda’s most attractive town – is marvel-

Scenically, this is the most dramatic part of

lously varied. The western horizon is dominated

Uganda. The terrain rises 4,000 metres above

by the 5,100 metre Rwenzori, which rises above

the grassy floor of the Albertine Rift Valley to the

the expansive savannah plains of the Albertine Rift

snowy summits of the Rwenzori, while between

Valley. To the east, the landscape is carpeted by

these extremes the landscape is pocked by crater

tea plantations and forest and dotted with extinct

lakes and covered with tea plantations, tropical

volcanic craters, many of which are flooded to

forests and farmland.

form delightful lakes.

The area also contains Uganda’s densest cluster

KIBALE NATIONAL PARK: The dense forest that

of protected areas, each with individual appeal.

covers the northern half of this 795 sq km park is

Big game roams the rift valley floor in Queen

famous for its large and varied primate population.

Elizabeth National Park, rare forest birds inhabit

Thirteen species, nine of them diurnal, are found

Semliki National Park, primates live in the forested

including chimpanzee, L’Hoest’s monkey and red

depths of Kibale National Park and bizarre giant

colobus. A number of chimpanzee groups have

Afro-Alpine plants grow below the snow line in the

been habituated for tourism and research and

Rwenzori Mountains National Park.

tracking them is Kibale’s most popular activity.

Birding is rewarding, too, with a total of 335

CLIMATE: Altitude provides the Rwenzori region

species in the park and the nearby community-run

with a pleasantly cool climate. Conditions are

Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary.

hotter – with a mean maximum of 28°C (80°F) – and drier on the low-lying rift valley floor.

38

Fort Portal and Kampala are connected by 300 km of surfaced road. Mweya, in the centre of Elizabeth National Park, lies 120 km south of Fort Portal.

RWENZORI MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK: The higher contours of Africa’s highest mountain range, the 5,100 metre Rwenzori, contain a frosty wonderland of glacier-carved valleys filled with fantastically coloured mosses and gigantic forms of lobelias, heathers and groundsels. Expeditions use a chain of basic huts and campsites to ascend to the snow peaks. Global warming looks set to melt Africa’s equatorial snows within 25 years, so the time to climb the Rwenzori is now.

Oleg Znamenskiy / Shutterstock.com

GETTING THERE

LANDSCAPE The landscape is dominated by the 5,100 metre Rwenzori range, which looms over the plains of the Western Rift Valley (620 to 900 metres above sea level). The rolling Fort Portal plateau to the east is dotted with volcanic crater lakes awaiting discovery by vehicle, bicycle or on foot.

SEMLIKI NATIONAL PARK: The easternmost tract of the Congo’s great Ituri Forest, Semliki is an exciting destination for primate viewers and

ACCOMMODATION

birdwatchers. Fifteen primate species – more even

Visitors have a wide choice of lodgings: inside

than Kibale – live within 6 km of the primeval hot

Kibale Forest, overlooking crater lakes and in

springs at Sempaya, while the 441 recorded bird

Fort Portal town. Highlights are Primate Lodge at

species include 216 forest birds. Eighty of these

Kibale’s chimp tracking trailhead, the

are Central African species found in few, if any,

monumental crater-rim Kyaninga Lodge and the

other East African forests. Though keen birders

beautifully restored colonial-era Mountains of the

can stay overnight in basic Uganda Wildlife

Moon hotel in Fort Portal.

Authority bandas, a new tarmac road makes Semliki an easy day trip from Fort Portal.

39

MURCHISON FALLS

NILE IS ARTERY SUSTAINING WILDLIFE EXTRAVAGANZA THE River Nile is the lifeblood of Uganda’s largest national park, transforming a 5,000 sq km expanse of savannah and bush into a celebration of African wildlife. When Winston Churchill visited the Falls in 1907, he described the setting as ‘Kew Gardens and the Zoo on an unlimited scale’ – and, a century later, his description holds true. The river banks are home to hippos, crocodiles and waterbirds, while the year-round presence of water in the Nile and its tributaries enables large populations of big game to thrive in this hot and uncompromising environment.

The Nile flows through Murchison Falls National Park for 120 km, hurtling down 80 km of rapids before crashing over the 40 metres (130 ft) Murchison Falls and flowing quietly across the rift valley floor to Lake Albert.

CLIMATE: The Nile corridor below Murchison Falls is the lowest part of Uganda and temperatures are hot, with a mean high of 29°C (80°F). Wet seasons occur during mid March to June and August to September.

CULTURE AND PEOPLE: The Murchison Nile separates two distinct ethnic groups: the Bantuspeaking Bunyoro and the Nilotic peoples of

The park offers some novel means of traversing

northern Uganda. South of the river, the Bunyoro

this wildlife cornucopia, with the usual game drives

Kingdom was once one of Africa’s greatest empires.

being supplemented by river cruises, walking

More recently, thousands of Acholi and Langi

safaris, forest walks and hot air balloon trips.

people living north of the Nile were displaced during a prolonged rebellion which ended in 2006.

LAND OF CONTRAST The Murchison landscape is bisected by a steep escarpment that descends from the Bunyoro plateau to Lake Albert in the Albertine Rift Valley. Within the park, the plateau is vegetated by woodland and tropical forest while the hot rift valley plains are covered by savannah and bush.

‘MUST DO’ ACTIVITIES The park contains three essential visitor activities.

First is the morning game drive through the Buligi grasslands to the banks of the Albert Nile. Second is a ‘game cruise’ on the voyage towards the Nile’s highest waterfall. Thirdly, the view of Murchison Falls from the boat should be supplemented by a visit to the Top of the Falls to see, hear and feel the waters of the mighty Nile explode through a 6 metre gorge.

40

GETTING THERE The main tourism hub is Paraa, where a vehicle ferry links the park’s northern and southern sectors. This can be accessed from the south via Masindi town (310 km from Kampala, with 86 km on dirt roads) or from the north via Karuma Falls and Pakwach (400 km but with only 25 km on dirt roads). Daily flights from Kampala to Murchison take one hour.

look for waterbirds, most notably the shoebill, and search the Kaniyo Pabidi forest for the 59 ‘restricted range’ residents including Albertine rift endemics and rare Central African species.

CULTURAL SITES: Hoima town, south of the park, contains cultural attractions related to the Bunyoro Kingdom: Mparo Tombs, Hoima Palace and Katasiha Fort. At Kibero Salt Gardens, beside Lake Albert, salt has been produced since the 13th century.

RHINO VIEWING: Guided walks in the 70 sq km Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary provide the only opportunity to encounter rhinos in the wild in Uganda. After poaching in the 1980s eliminated Uganda’s rhinos, the population was restored with animals from Kenya and the United States in 2004-5. The sanctuary’s first baby was born in 2009 from a Kenyan father and American Murchison also offers opportunities to venture into

mother. His name, of course, is Obama.

the wilderness on foot. Leave the car (and boat) behind to view big game on a walking safari and track chimpanzees through the depths of Kaniyo Oleg Znamenskiy / Shutterstock.com

Pabidi Forest. You can leave the ground behind, too, when you take a hot air balloon flight to discover what elephants look like from 100 metres up.

BIRDERS’ HEAVEN Murchison is a prime birdwatching destination,

WHERE TO STAY Murchison Falls National Park contains two upmarket hotels and a choice of mid-market and budget options.

Additional options are located outside the park near Paraa and Pakwach.

with 450 species recorded. Cruise along the Nile to

41

EASTERN & NORTHERN UGANDA

BOUNDLESS PLAINS AND MOUNTAIN RETREATS LIE OFF BEATEN TRACK THE little visited north-eastern region of Karamoja is a world apart from the established tourist territory of western Uganda.

Littered with ancient mountains, this hot, semi-arid and sparsely inhabited expanse makes a dramatic contrast with the lush, densely populated hills that surround Bwindi and the Rwenzori.

Valley is hotter and drier, with one long dry season between October and March.

CULTURE AND PEOPLE: The pastoralist Karamojong people who live between Mount Elgon and Kidepo Valley maintain a traditional semi-nomadic lifestyle.

On Elgon’s western slopes, the Bagisu people are known for their colourful imbalu ceremony, in which boys are initiated into manhood through

This region is the home of Karamojong pastoralists

circumcision.

whose fractious cattle-raiding tradition discouraged tourism for many years. The region is now safe for overland travel and visitors are discovering Karamo-

WATERFALLS

ja’s rich, traditional cultures as they journey towards

MOUNT ELGON: As a setting for casual rambles and

the jewel in the crown of northern Uganda, the

purposeful expeditions, Mount Elgon is ideal. Mount

fabulous, game-rich plains of Kidepo National Park.

Elgon National Park, which protects natural habitat on the higher slopes of the mountain, offers short

VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS

walks through forest and bamboo and three- to

Extinct volcanic mountains dot the plains of

fractured rim of a huge caldera, 8 km in diameter,

Karamoja, providing variety and drama. While

containing glacial lakes and hot springs.

four-day treks to the summit. The peaks line the

Mounts Moroto and Kadam must be climbed on foot, tarmac ascends to Sipi Falls on Mount

There are further opportunities for exercise outside

Elgon, enabling a welcome diversion on the hot

the park, notably at Sipi village, where the Sipi River

drive towards Kidepo. The mountain’s cool slopes

plunges over three impressive waterfalls in quick

contain much to discover in the form of scenic

succession. Explore on foot, with a mountain bike

waterfalls, dramatic mountain panoramas, bird-rich

– excellent practice for the Mount Elgon Mountain

forests and cultural encounters.

Bike Race, now in its eighth year – or take a tandem paraglider flight. If these activities seem taxing, opt

42

CLIMATE: Mount Elgon has dry seasons from June

for a relaxing Coffee Tour and follow the progress

to August and December to March. The night-time

of Mount Elgon’s famous Arabica beans from plant

temperatures are cold at high altitude. Kidepo

to percolator.

GETTING THERE

EXTINCT VOLCANOES The extensive plains on Uganda’s eastern frontier are dotted with extinct volcanoes and isolated mountain ranges, of which the highest is the 4,321 metre Mount Elgon.

Until recently, potential insecurity and a long 600 km drive meant that most visitors opted for the two-hour, twice-weekly flight from Entebbe to Kidepo. Now, with security assured and with tarmac roads penetrating ever further into the region, more and more visitors are driving to Kidepo. A choice of routes offers diversions to Murchison Falls National Park and Mount Elgon.

ACCOMMODATION: Visitors to Mount Elgon National Park

KARAMOJA: Historically, Karamoja had a reputation as a

will find basic cottages at Kapkwai, while Sipi village is

wild region however today, the security issue has been

surrounded by mid-range lodges, backpacker cottages

revolved. The warriors of Karamoja have surrendered

and campsites. Mbale town has several good hotels.

their firearms and visitors are free to experience tradi-

Located at the foot of the mountain, below the towering

tional Karamojong life in this starkly beautiful region.

Wanale Cliffs, it is an ideal base for exploring the region.

Though Karamoja remains relatively undeveloped for TRAVEL: Mbale is 230 km from Kampala – a five-hour

tourism, emergent menus of activities highlight the

drive on good tarmac. A tarmac road ascends to Sipi

history, traditions and culture of the region. Visitors

Falls on Mount Elgon, 50 km from Mbale.

can sleep in a manyatta (hut village); climb the region’s distinctive volcanic peaks; join in traditional dances; try

KIDEPO VALLEY NATIONAL PARK: One of Africa’s prime

their hand at weaving, jewellery making, pottery and gold

wildernesses, Kidepo is located in the northern corner

mining; and visit mysterious displays of ancient rock art.

of Karamoja. Rolling grasslands ringed by distant mountains provide a fabulous setting in which to seek

PIAN UPE WILDLIFE RESERVE: On the southern edge of

big game favourites such as elephant, giraffe, harte-

Karamoja, between the volcanic massifs of Kadam and

beest, lion, zebra and buffalo. Also present are aardwolf,

Elgon, Pian Upe grassland contains a small but expanding

bat-eared fox, cheetah, eland, striped hyena and ostrich

population of wildlife including ostrich, roan antelope

– creatures that occur rarely, if at all, in other Ugandan

and cheetah. Long overlooked, the reserve is gaining in

parks. Owing to its isolation, Kidepo remains little

prominence and elevation to national park status has

frequented, so visitors can still expect exclusive wildlife

been proposed.

encounters.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS: Nyero Rock paintings near Kumi.

ACCOMMODATION: Campsites and an upmarket lodge exist within inside the park, while a limited selection of budget and mid-range lodge can be found on the margins.

43

JINJA AND THE NILE

GEOGRAPHY, HISTORY AND HIGH-OCTANE ADVENTURE ALTHOUGH Jinja town is little more than a century old, it lies at the centre of a mystery that dates back to Ancient Egypt. For the town marks the start of the River Nile, a location that eluded geographers for more than 50 centuries.

Jinja town offers a wide choice of accommodation including several five-star hotels as well as decent mid-range hotels and popular backpacker hostels.

Egyptians, Romans and Greeks all tried to locate the river’s origin, but the swamps in South Sudan frustrated their efforts. The puzzle persisted until 1862 when the English explorer John Hanning Speke reached the sole outlet from Lake Victoria.

Watching the lake drain north over a rocky cataract, known locally as Ejinja, he proclaimed this to be the Source of the Nile.

Today, the source attracts thousands of visitors each year. Some are drawn by a sense of history; others are attracted by its geographical significance. All arrive reassured by the knowledge that exploring the headwaters of the Nile is a considerably more comfortable and entertaining process than it was in 1862.

COLONIAL Many of Jinja’s fine colonial buildings have been restored as hotels and restaurants, while the river

45

Nurlan Mammadzada / Shutterstock.com

JINJA AND THE NILE

bank can be enjoyed with equipment as basic as a set of golf clubs. The prospect of adventure still persists and the turbulent headwaters of this iconic river can also be experienced using kayaks, rafts, jet boats, quad bikes or – this may not be for everyone – with a bungee rope strapped around your ankles.

CLIMATE: The Nile corridor enjoys good weather all

NILE RAPIDS Below its outlet from Lake Victoria, the River Nile passes between high, cultivated banks over a series of rapids marked by forested mid-channel islands.

year round.

CULTURE AND PEOPLE: Two tribes are divided by the Nile at Jinja. The Baganda live on the west bank

ACTIVITIES

and the Basoga on the eastern or Jinja side. The Nile

Rafting is not the only high point. Other activities

is of great cultural importance to both groups and

keep the adrenalin flowing, including kayaking, quad

rituals are performed at riverside shrines.

biking, jet boating and a 44 metre bungee jump above the river. The full menu caters for mild as well

MAJOR ATTRACTIONS

as wild tastes. The creation of Lake Bujagali behind

JINJA: With a combination of high-octane activities

sions such as family boat trips, fishing excursions,

and relaxing excursions, decent hotels and restau-

sundowner cruises and paddle boarding. On shore,

rants, pleasant scenery and an enduring historical

horse riding and mountain biking provide alternative

significance, the Jinja Nile is one of Uganda’s main

means of exploration.

a hydro-power dam in 2012 has led to gentler excur-

tourism destinations, offering relaxation, history and adventure.

MABIRA FOREST: This tropical forest is located between Kampala and Jinja, just an hour from the

The main attraction in the quiet riverside town of

capital. Central Uganda’s largest forest reserve

Jinja is a visit to Speke’s Source of the Nile. Seven

offers guided and unguided forest walks, specialist

kilometres to the north, the pace of life is very

birdwatching, mountain biking and Uganda’s first

different at Bujagali, now firmly established as

canopy-level zip line.

East Africa’s adventure tourism hub. Each year,

46

thousands of tourists, backpackers and overland

TRAVEL: Jinja is 80 km east of Kampala on a tarmac

truckers flock to the river to raft a series of rapids.

road. Travel time is about two hours.

Jinja town offers upmarket guesthouses and mid-range and budget hotels while, 10 km north, Bujagali has backpacker accommodation and a mid-range tented camp beside the river. Upriver, superior lodges overlook the rapids at Kalagala Falls. Mabira Forest has an upmarket lodge and backpacker accommodation.

Lukas Maverick Greyson / Shutterstock.com

Rashad Mammadov / Shutterstock.com

WHERE TO STAY

47

USEFUL CONTACTS UGANDA TOURISM BOARD HEAD OFFICE 5th & 6th Floor Lugogo House Plot 42, Rotary Avenue (Lugogo Bypass), Kampala Email: info@utb.go.ug IMMIGRATION CONTACT Ministry of Internal Affairs Directorate of Citizenship and Immigration (Head office) Plot 75, Jinja Road PO Box 7165/7191, Kampala Tel: +256 414 595 945 Fax: +256 414 348 707 CULTURAL CENTRE Uganda National Cultural Centre (formerly National Theatre), Kampala Tel: +256 434 660 427

MINISTRY OF TOURISM, WILDLIFE & ANTIQUITIES Rwenzori Towers 2nd Floor Plot 6 Nakasero Road PO Box 4241, Kampala Tel: +256 414 561 700 Email: info@tourism.go.ug

CIVIL AVIATION AUTHORITY HEAD OFFICE Entebbe Road, Entebbe Tel: +256 414 352 000 Email: aviation@caa.co.ug

UGANDA NATIONAL MUSEUM Plot 5-7 Kira Road PO Box 365, Kampala Tel: +256 414 232 707

UGANDA INVESTMENT AUTHORITY TWED Plaza, Plot 22B Lumumba Avenue PO Box 7418 Kampala Tel: +256 414 301 000 Email: info@ugandainvest.go.ug

UGANDA WILDLIFE AUTHORITY Plot 7 Kira Road, Kamwokya PO Box 3530, Kampala Email: info@ugandawildlife.org Tel: +256 414 355 000/312 355 000

48

49

TOUR OPERATOR CONTACTS 1000 SHADES OF GREEN TOUR & SAFARIS CO. LTD

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This is a directory of professional and licenced tour operators which all adhere to sustainable practices and are both bonded and insured. All are members of the Association of Uganda Tour Operators (AUTO).

FLORAS AND FAUNA TOURS & TRAVEL LTD

HOG SAFARIS

KORI SAFARIS

MR. FLEET AND SENRY CONCEPTS SMC LTD

FRIENDSHIP INTERNATIONAL TOURS & TRAVEL LTD

HOME TO AFRICA TOURS & TRAVEL CO

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HOUSE OF UGANDA SAFARIS LTD

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51

TOUR OPERATOR CONTACTS PEARLAFRIC TOURS & TRAVEL

ROOTS TOURS & TRAVEL

THE FAR HORIZONS U LTD (DATA POINT)

UZURI UGANDA SAFARIS LTD

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SHOEBILL SAFARIS

PROMOTE UGANDA SAFARIS LTD

SIMBA AFRICA EXPEDITIONS

RAFT SUPREME

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SPEKE UGANDA HOLIDAYS

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STEADFAST SAFARIS & TOURS LTD

REALM AFRICA SAFARIS

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RED CHILLI HIDE AWAY LTD

SUN AFRICA EXPEDITIONS

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SWANAIR TRAVEL & SAFARIS LTD

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TALES OF AFRICA SAFARIS LTD

RIESSNANCE TOUR & TRAVEL CO LTD

TERRAIN SAFARIS LTD

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+256 392148267 www.umojamotherlandtours.com UNIVERSAL TRAVELS (U) LTD

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