540 Magazine - Issue 9 - May 2013

ISSUE 09

MAY - JULY 2013

FOOD FOR THOUGHT Karen’s Talisman

MotorReview

4x4 WITH THE X-FACTOR Nissan X-Trail

VICTOR WANYAMA Will Kenyan soccer star leave Celtic?

EAST AFRICA:

LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL ALL THE SIGNS POINT TO A BIG ECONOMIC UPTURN

ProductReview

Blackberry Z10 ALSO INSIDE THIS ISSUE:

LATEST RELEASES • 540 NEWS • JUBA CITY GUIDE

ASHUT ENGINEERS

Issue 9 - MaY - JuLY

Contents 27

09

© Stafford Ondego

14

30 SPECIaL FEatuRES

REGuLaR FEatuRES

03 IN THIS ISSUE

05 MYWORLD

africa’s last unexplored wilderness

Welcome to the new issue

13 LOOKINSIDE

09 LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL

Flagship hotel offers 1930s-style opulence

all the signs point to an economic upturn

is published by

lanD & Marine publiCations (kenya) ltD

Suite a5, 1st Floor, ojijo Plaza, 20 Plums Lane off ojijo Road, Parklands, Po Box 2022 Village Market 00621, nairobi tel: +254 (0)20 374 1934 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com on behalf of

14 LAKE BOGORIA NATIONAL RESERVE

Future looks bright for no 1 cargo gateway

Spectacular lake that inspired a president

22 KISITE MARINE PARK a marine wonderland awaiting discovery

30 VICTOR WANYAMA

Will Kenyan soccer star leave Celtic?

39 CHINUA ACHEBE

turbulent times that produced a literary giant

Fly540 aViation

Riverside Green Suites, Palm Suite, Riverside drive Po Box 10293-00100, nairobi, Kenya tel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/2/3/4/5 Email info@fly540.com www.fly540.com

19 BUSINESSHub

25 FOODFORTHOUGHT Karen’s talisman Restaurant

27 ProductReview Blackberry Z10

28 LATEST RELEASES

Coming to a screen near you...

33 CITYGUIDE Juba

34 MotorReview uSEFuL InFoRMatIon 36 THE FLY540 NETWORK

nissan X-trail

46 KIDZ CORNER

42 TRAVEL INFORMATION

Essential travel and visa information

the opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. no liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. ©2013 Land & Marine Publications (Kenya) Ltd

44 FLY540 FLEET 48 FLY540 CONTACTS

ConneCt With Fly540 @fly540aviation www.facebook.com/pages/Fly-540

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1

In thIS ISSuE

in this

issue

GREat LaKE, GREat PoRt, GREat FootBaLLER, GREat ISSuE of 540 – Fly540’s quarterly

in-flight magazine.

and what a momentous three

a long, hard football season is coming to an end in Europe. one of the stand-out stars in recent month has

Below: Food for thought, page 25.

been Kenya’s Victor Wanyama. In this

months it has been. Kenya held

issue we look at the rise and rise of

peaceful general elections and, as a

young Mr Wanyama and try to predict

result, the country has a new presi-

where he will be playing next season.

dent, uhuru Kenyatta.

Fingers crossed that we have guessed

In fact, Lake Bogoria, which we

right, otherwise, this column will start

visit in this issue, is said to be the fi rst

with an apology in the next issue (due

president’s favourite place to camp.

out in the fi rst week of August).

of course, Kenya has much better known lakes – naivasha and nakuru,

en route

for instance – so Lake Bogoria tends to

If you are reading this maga-

be rather overlooked, which is a pity.

zine en route to Juba, then

anyway, I hope that, in our small way,

perhaps you’re staying in

we are making amends.

South Sudan’s capital and won’t

Mr Kenyatta comes to power at a

LATEST RELEASES

venture out too much. as we

propitious moment. In economic terms,

illustrate, this would be a pity because,

East africa is poised for take-off and

perhaps surprisingly, South Sudan has

Kenya, in particular, is expecting to

some of the best game-viewing in africa.

see growth accelerate in the coming

In our regular car review spot, we

months now that the election is out of

consider the merits of the new nissan

the way. this magazine sets the scene

X-trail. the soft-roader is popular in

for the coming boom.

East africa as a cheaper alternative to

the gateway for much of East africa’s growing foreign trade is the sometimes unfairly criticised Port

look out For... 

© Steve Anderson Photography

W

elcome to the latest edition

In our “latest releases” section on page 28 you can find up to date information and reviews for the latest film and book releases. One of the films featured in this issue is Oblivion.

toyota’s class-leading RaV 4. Let’s see how it compares.

Enjoy your fl ight with Fly540.

of Mombasa. 540 magazine puts the nation’s only major seaport under

Gary Gimson

the spotlight.

Publisher, 540 magazine

CITYGuIdE

Our “City guide” section on page 33 takes a look at Juba. With ideas on where to stay, what to do and where to eat, as well as practical information you could need during a visit.

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3

MyWorld: South Sudan

aFriCa’s last uneXploreD WilDerness I

t’s a sad fact that South Sudan is

of the nation’s total land area. Most of

white-eared kob, mongalla (an

little visited by tourists.

these protected areas were created in

antelope similar to a thomson’s

this unhappy situation is set to

theory, so their boundaries are a little

gazelle) and tiang (which resembles

change as the fledgling state begins to

hazy and have never been formalised.

a topi), rivalling in many ways the

promote its largely undiscovered and often unique wildlife to the wider world. a major step forward was taken in

Serengeti/Mara wildebeest migration.

surVeys

• about 4,000 elephant and viable

Recent surveys by the government

March when, for the first time, South Sudan

in partnership with the Wildlife

populations of other large species

displayed its wares on its own stand at ItB

Conservation Society reveal that these

such as giraffe, buffalo and the

Berlin, the world’s largest travel trade

parks and reserves have a diverse

endemic nile lechwe.

show, held annually in the German capital.

range of species. thankfully, these areas were mostly inaccessible to local people during the civil war and,

strategies with scarce resources to

surprisingly, are still inhabited by

harness this potentially important

large animal populations.

sector for the nation’s economy.

South Sudan starts at a huge

South Sudan is home to the world’s largest wetland area, the Sudd, covering

disadvantage, however, in terms of its

30,000 sq km, as well as to one of the

tourism infrastructure. there are few

largest untouched savanna and woodland

roads, and no camps or lodges in its

ecosystems remaining in africa.

national parks, and it will be some time before these can be established.

South Sudan’s wildlife status can be characterised as follows:

Yet the potential is huge. there are six national parks and 13 game reserves covering about 11 per cent

©Frontpage, Shutterstock.com

the Ministry of Wildlife Conservation & tourism is clearly developing

happy FaCes 

• one of the world’s largest antelope migrations, comprising 1.2 million

Above: Children selling cooked corn

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5

MyWorld: South sudan • Large carnivore species such as

lion, leopard, cheetah and wild dog.

It’s not all good news, however, as South Sudan’s amazing wildlife heritage is now threatened by an increase in commercial poaching, human encroachment and oil exploration.

Some species, including zebra, hartebeest and buffalo, have been badly affected during the civil war and are now at risk of disappearing.

Migration The 10,000 sq km Bandingilo National Park, in a wooded area close to the White Nile, has two claims to fame: it is home to the world’s second-largest animal migration (after the Mara/ Serengeti) and is also one of the least visited national parks in the world. This latter fact is a reflection of its location

The 23,000 sq km Southern National

Yambio town, was originally set up to

and lack of tourist facilities rather than

Park is one of Africa’s largest, but like

its attractiveness as a national park.

many others is rarely visited and little

ened lowland bongo. The reserve is also

known by wildlife enthusiasts.

home to leopard, chimpanzee, baboon,

The Bandingilo migration comprises a different group of animals from the wildebeest and zebra that make up the herds to the south. Bandingilo’s migration is reedbuck, tiang and white-ear kob. The park also contains extensive marshlands and supports large bird populations. Although it is a major wildlife area, somewhat

conserve and protect the near threat-

The tiny 410 sq km Nimule National Park is right on the border with Uganda

giant forest hog, bushbuck and warthog.

Kidepo Valley National Park in

‘There are several game reserves across South Sudan with a variety of animal species, including some of great significance’

unbelievably the park lies within a

in the extreme south. Again, the park

Uganda is thought to be that country’s

Total Oil drilling concession.

is rarely visited. It contains elephant,

finest wildlife reserve and one with

hippo, warthog, Ugandan kob, baboon

tremendous potential; but South

National Park lies close to the

and vervet monkey. A one-day permit

Sudan can match this with its own

Ethiopian border, contiguous with that

will cost the visitor a hefty US$70.00

Kidepo Game Reserve. The reserve,

The giant 22,800 sq km Boma

country’s Gambela National Park, and

with its naturally occurring coconut

is home to white-eared kob, tiang and

Central

the mongalla. The park also contains

The 620 sq km Shambe National Park is

buffalo, elephant, leopard, zebra, oryx,

in the central area. It lies west of the road

hartebeest and cheetah.

between Yei and Maridi town bordering

WILDLIFE

the Democratic Republic of Congo’s

The 9,700 sq km Zeraf Game Reserve,

Garamba National Park. The vegetation

within in the Sudd, is thought to

of Shambe National Park supports a huge

contain about half the country’s

population of elephant, buffalo, baboon, a

population of elephant and is also home

variety of antelope and ostrich.

to Nile lechwe, sitatunga (as would be

plantation, has cheetah, wild dog,

In addition to the parks, there are

kudu, buffalo and elephant.

expected in a swamp) and hippo.

several game reserves across South

South Sudan, then, has wildlife

Sudan with a variety of animal species,

aplenty, but almost no tourism. However,

including some of great significance.

if the large number of visitors to South

For instance:

Sudan’s ITB stand is any guide, then

The rain forest reserve of Bangangai, on the Sudan-Congo border, west of

Kenya and Tanzania may soon be looking at a new rival for those tourism dollars.

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7

EaSt aFRICa: BooM TIME

EAST AFRICA:

let the gooD tiMes roll I

s East Africa about to experience

the mother of all economic booms?

It seems so.

success as the rest of the continent; now it is poised to turbo-charge its performance still further as key

at a time of uncertainty and general

factors come together to create almost

gloom elsewhere, especially in Europe, the

laboratory-like conditions for growth.

continent of africa stands out as a beacon of optimism. and with good reason. as a subregion, East africa has

speCtaCular the vital building blocks are in place:

enjoyed the same rip-roaring economic

‘now we have the prospect of East africa’s own ‘simba’ economies as uganda, tanzania and Kenya step on the gas, both literally and metaphorically’

political stability, big new energy fi nds, ongoing inward investment by the Chinese and others, and the completion of spectacular new infrastructural projects. In turn, this is underpinned by a young, willing and increasingly well-educated workforce eager to embrace new technology. Meanwhile,

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9

aid money continues to pour in – often and perversely from those increasingly impoverished countries in Europe which can no longer afford to give it.

comparisons As a result, comparisons are now being made between East Africa and the Far East of 30 years ago. In the past there was much talk of Asian ‘tigers’. Now we have the prospect of East Africa’s own ‘simba’ economies as Uganda, Tanzania and Kenya step on the gas, both literally and metaphorically.

All three nations enjoyed strong growth in 2012 and the trio are set to do even better this year. In fact, new president Uhuru Kenyatta has pledged to push Kenya’s annual growth rate to 10 per cent.

prospects In short, the region has never been in better economic shape and its business prospects have never looked more propitious. The only possible cloud on the horizon is the Kenyan government’s public sector debt and a widening current account deficit coupled with an excessively high state wage bill.

But, ignoring any possible downside risk and seeing slim pickings elsewhere, foreign investors are almost falling over themselves to get a slice of the East African action. And with even bigger projects coming down

‘The region has never been in better economic shape and its business prospects have never looked more propitious’ the track, one can expect to see more

to the regional headquarters of major corporations. The Kenyan capital still suffers from chronic infrastructure constraints, as this year’s short rains have once again demonstrated. This, too, is changing, however, and Nairobi is finally addressing its transport

The chief beneficiary of this influx

shortcomings by creating new roads and

foreign executives on flights to Nairobi,

of business visitors is Nairobi, where

commuter rail systems, not to mention a

Entebbe and Dar es Salaam.

a new hotel seems to open every other

new airport terminal at Jomo Kenyatta

Clearly, top city centre hotels are the first to feel the impact of these free-

month, with more on the way.

Airport. And, thanks to the Chinese and Japanese, Kenya – more generally – is

spending, expense account executives

epicentre

lining the lobbies and filling the bars

Like or not, Nairobi is the region’s

and coffee shops to make deals with

undisputed commercial epicentre; it

A barometer of Kenya’s growing

the region’s decision-makers.

has the hotels and flights and is home

status is the city’s real estate market.

10

Issue 9

adding a new port at Lamu and a new container terminal in Mombasa.

EAST AFRICA: BOOM TIME economy hotting up 

© Lexan / Shutterstock.com

Left: Nodding donkeys are on their way Below: Expect more high rise

And it is oil – or, more strictly speaking, energy – that holds the longterm key to higher living standards elsewhere in East Africa.

Uganda, too, will be energy-rich soon. Heritage Oil has discovered oil reserves worth $7 billion at today’s prices. But production is unlikely to start much before 2017.

© Fedor Selivanov / Shutterstock.com

bountiful Property values in the city increased

The waters off Tanzania appear even

again in 2012 as a 10-year boom showed

more bountiful. Tanzania has been

no sign of ending. On some measures,

described as ‘the hottest frontier in

Nairobi has seen the world’s fastest-

the global oil and gas industry’. This is

growing property prices in recent

no exaggeration. Tanzania, along with

years. Other East African capitals have

neighbouring Mozambique, is sitting

also seen strong price growth.

on huge gas reserves. Experts say these reserves are bigger than those

confident

of Qatar, currently the world’s leading

Also, on the horizon, there is oil. The

producer of liquefied natural gas. Of

UK’s Tullow Oil seems fairly confident it

course, these reserves may take years

has found oil in commercial quantities

to be exploited; but even building the

in Turkana. The prospect of petroleum

gas production facilities will involve

revenues will do much to ease concern

the investment of many billions of

elsewhere about government income

dollars in the local economy.

from taxation and the like.

So, let the good times roll.

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11

LOOKINSIDE: Hemingways Nairobi

Hemingways Nairobi

Flagship hotel offers 1930s-style opulence N

airobi has yet another new

hotel; but this one is a little

– might have felt at home immediately.

Hemingways Nairobi has hired

Aimed at both the affluent

Kenya’s first Michelin-starred chef to

business traveller and the well-

design the kitchens and manage the

heeled and discerning leisure visitor,

restaurants, so guests can expect some

Hemingways Nairobi offers a peaceful

really superb cuisine in The Dining

and tranquil setting away from the

Room and The Brasserie. Uniquely, the

hurly-burly of the nearby city.

hotel also provides a butler service.

Thinking twice

and gym and a 15 metre long heated

attractive views of the Ngong Hills

Getting to and from Nairobi is not

outdoor pool.

nearby, Hemingways Nairobi has

without its problems and can make

45 suites and guestrooms and is the

visitors think twice about staying in

adds to the city’s attractiveness as a

latest addition to an eclectic group

Karen; but work on a six-lane highway

destination and such a boutique hotel of

of properties that also embraces

from Adams Arcade to Ngong is due to

this kind is probably long overdue. So

Hemingways in Watamu and Ol Seki in

commence in 2013.

hats off to the Hemingways Collection

different. Two years in the making

and with its opening a tad delayed by the elections, Hemingways Nairobi – the new flagship property of the

Hemingways Collection – welcomed its first lucky guests 20 April.

Set in 10 splendid acres and with

For the energetic, the hotel has a spa

Hemingways Nairobi certainly

the Mara’s Naboisho Conservancy.

As might be expected from a Karenbased hotel, this five-star boutique property has a dash of the 1930s about it, with sweeping staircases, hardwood floors in the guestrooms, four-poster beds and commodious trunks for storage. In fact, it’s just the kind of place where members of the colonial safari set – the likes of Denys Finch Hatton, ‘Bunny’ Allen and John Hunter

More information  Website: www.hemingways-nairobi.com

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13

LaKE BoGoRIa natIonaL RESERVE

speCtaCular lake that inspireD a presiDent a sinuous pewterblue ribbon of mirrored water, often pink-frosted with a million or so flamingos 14

Issue 9

PrESIdENT’S CAMP

t

he idea of Kenya’s founding

father, Mzee Jomo Kenyatta,

setting off with members of his

cabinet on a camping trip might

strike you as bizarre. And yet, when Kenyatta was weighed down by

affairs of state, this is exactly what

he did. Fig Tree Campsite, the president’s favourite, lies at the farthest end of lake Bogoria; and, while it doesn’t offer much in the way of

facilities, its natural attributes are outstanding.

It embraces a grove of mighty fi g trees for shade, a crystal-clear stream for water, and a small bay with spectacular views all along the lake. It was here, according to legend, that the great man would sit in silent contemplation, or in calm discussion with his entourage.

DraMatiC Lake Bogoria is the most dramatic, yet least visited, of the Great Rift Valley lakes – a sinuous pewter-blue ribbon of mirrored water, often pink-frosted with a million or so flamingos. On one side of the lake is a gentle shoreline, while on the other side loom the inkygrey battlements of the forbidding Siracha Escarpment.

unruFFleD While the waters of Lake Bogoria are calm and unruffled, its surroundings are anything but. the reserve contains over 200 hot springs, bubbling from beneath the earth’s crust and reaching a temperature of 104°C. Roaring geysers hurl jets of scalding water several metres into the air; the boiling rock pools have surreal brown, yellow and orange rock sculptures rising out of them; clouds of steam billow across the lake like genies escaping from a bottle; and there are people boiling eggs and cooking goat’s meat in the simmering pools. It’s a bizarre scene, but one you won’t forget in a hurry.

birD liFe  Left: Pretty flamingos

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15

PRESIDENT’S CAMP Wildlife

slender, its pale-grey coat slashed

Around the hot springs, vervet

by eight white stripes down either

monkeys and olive baboons can be

flank, the kudu has a magnificent pair

seen. Along the roads, visitors may

of spiralled horns. The kudu is shy,

spot the occasional lumbering leopard

however, and hard to spot.

tortoise, while along the shoreline they

When the heat of the day has eased,

can see grazing zebra, impala, gazelle,

a visit to the acacia groves of the

buffalo and the odd warthog family on

Sogomo Causeway, next to the Acacia

the charge. As for predator, there will

Campsite, is well worthwhile.

be mongoose in plenty; perhaps the occasional loping spotted hyena; and, if

Campsite

you are very lucky, a leopard stretched

Fig Tree Campsite, 3 km from Emsos

out along the branch of a fig tree.

Gate and 15 km from Loburu Springs,

pink paradise

offers an ideal opportunity for some presidential contemplation. Campers are

Coloured a thick soupy blue on account

also welcome in the lush grounds of Lake

of spirulina algae, the harshly alkaline

Bogoria Spa Resort, where a fully serv-

Lake Bogoria is heaven for flamingos.

iced campsite is available for a small fee.

They flock here in their tens of thousands to promenade along the shoreline in drifts of carmine and sugar-pink.

They murmur in the shallows, scything

MORE INFORMATION  www.lakebogoria-hotel.com

their beaks to and fro to sift the algae from the water; and they arrive and depart without apparent reason.

antelope king Bogoria is one of the few places in Kenya where visitors can glimpse the so-called ‘king of the antelopes’, the rare greater kudu. Large and

WILDLIFE  Top Right: Kudu Right: Mother and baby vervets

Fact file  • Altitude: 1,000 to 1,600 metres above sea level.

• Area: 107 sq km of which 34 sq km is water. The lake is 16 km long, 1.4 km wide and between 5.0 and 10.0 metres in depth.

• Location: Rift Valley Province.

• Distance from Nairobi: 266 km.

• Status: National Reserve and Ramsar site.

• Birds: Over 220 species including flamingo, ostrich, plover, heron, ibis, hammerkop, roller and greycrowned crane.

For more information visit: www.lakebogoriareserve.com

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17

BUSINESSHub: Port of Mombasa

FUTURE LOOKS BRIGHT FOR NO 1 CARGO GATEWAY B

elieve it or not, the Port of

Mombasa is one of Kenya’s great

success stories.

Despite the usual moans and groans from self-interested importers,

‘The port is also the principal

maritime gateway for Uganda, Rwanda and South Sudan’

shipping agents and the like, the port’s performance in recent years

Uganda, Rwanda and South Sudan, as

say that shippers in many east African

has been nothing short of remarkable,

well as handling significant amounts

states have little alternative but to use

with cargo throughput growing by an

of cargo for other East African states.

Mombasa. And clearly, there is some

average of about 10 per cent per year.

In fact, some 30 per cent of all freight

truth in this view.

And it doesn’t stop there; the pressure to handle more and more containers and other cargo is

moving through Mombasa is to or from destinations other than Kenya The port’s detractors are bound to

The construction of a new port in Lamu may change the logistical dynamic, as might various ambitious

unrelenting. Mombasa has to raise its game still further, running ever faster just to stand still. In 2012 the port handled 22 million tonnes of cargo – nearly double what was being handled less than 10 years ago.

BURDEN The Kenya Ports Authority (KPA) has a huge national and regional burden to bear. Not only does Mombasa handle every last tonne of Kenya’s seaborne commerce; the port is also the principal maritime gateway for

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19

online Whatever your platform

NEVER MISS ANOTHER ISSUE

www.fly540.com/inflight-magazines

BUSINESSHub: Port of Mombasa plans for new rail lines from the

needed to replace the

hinterland to the Indian Ocean. These

ageing narrow-gauge

developments should provide options

line and the Mombasa-

for neighbouring states, but Kenya-bound

Nairobi highway needs

cargo will still be routed via Mombasa.

further work to bring

The Port of Mombasa will be in a better position to meet the challenges ahead when Kilindini

it up to international standards.

A deal has already

2, a spanking new KES 2.8 billion

been signed with the

container terminal, opens in 2015.

Chinese for a new

The new terminal will have an annual

rail link between

throughput capacity of 1.2 million teu

Mombasa and Nairobi

(20 ft equivalent units). To put things

at an estimated

in perspective, Mombasa handled just

cost of US$ 2.6 billion and with a

over 900,000 teu in 2012.

possible extension to Uganda. This

rail lines to the coast. But these project

would dramatically alter the road-

are some way off and still await fi nal

rail dynamic in terms of the cost

approval.

TRANSFER Discussions are also in hand over the

and efficiency of moving containers

transfer of three container-handling

between the coast and Nairobi.

berths to an independent company

For the time-being, Mombasa, has the field to itself.

Rail is where Mombasa may, indeed,

– a move that is being resisted by

face stiffer competition as discussions

waterfront unions.

between Uganda and Tanzania

But even with additional container

PORT DUTIES 

about building a new 668 km link

handling capacity, Mombasa port is

from Musoma (on the shores of Lake

still likely to be constrained by poor

Victoria) to Arusha to connect with

Above: Trucks queue to leave the container terminal

inland connections. A new railway is

Tanga. Ethiopia, too, is looking at new

Below: Rail cars

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21

A MARINE WONDERLAND AWAITING DISCOVERY

By Pamela J. Karg

‘All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveller is unaware’ Martin Buber

O

annually to Kenya, most think

of safaris, local beer, woodcrafts

and beach resorts. But it’s time to

discover a ‘secret’ destination that includes coral reefs, traditional

dhows, fi shing, snorkelling and a unique opportunity to watch the

coconut crabs, which can climb trees.

Welcome to Kisite Mpunguti Marine

Issue 9

crabs, the largest arthropods on land.

Yet only about 50,000 tourists – five

f the 1 million tourists flocking

22

Kisite is home to 70 resident wild dolphins and a large cast of coconut

per cent of foreign visitors to Kenya – explore the 39 km marine park and reserve each year.

OPERATIONS Kenyan Wildlife Service (KWS) is responsible for park operations, protecting against poachers and assisting with patrols of the coastal waters bordering Tanzania.

“Whenever I have the chance, I’m

Park, the largest of Kenya’s four marine

always out here,” says assistant park

parks, located on the south coast about

manager Mark Kinyua as the KWS

an hour’s drive from Mombasa.

boat heads out to one of four small

© Pamela J. Karg

© Pamela J. Karg

Kisite Marine Park

WHEN YOU VISIT KISITE •

If possible, contact park staff a day before you explore. Working with the Kisite Boat Association, staff link you with dhow operators who can arrange birdwatching, picnicking, snorkelling, fishing or scuba diving.

•

When you arrive, go to the end of the Shimoni’s main road and turn right. Don’t worry about talking to the boat vendors there. You’ll meet yours after buying your park entrance ticket. Dhow fees are paid separately when you board.

eye-popping yet peaceful and mysteri-

Stop by the Education Centre. Kisite hosts Kenyan and international researchers who share their findings in Centre displays.

After a session of underwater explora-

•

•

© Pamela J. Karg

•

islands surrounded by coral reef found within the park’s sea boundaries.

“There’s always something new to amaze you – on the islands, in the air or under the water. That’s what makes this such a great park.”

•

ous landscape for visitors as they float in the blue and green waters.

SESSION tion, the dhow captains will inch their boats into calm bays with coral bridges and white beaches embedded with every

Don’t forget extra water, sunscreen, a camera and some biscuits to nibble during your trip.

colour of shell and rock. Visitors should note, however, that not even the small-

Give yourself at lease five hours. Weather, tides (which vary by up to 2.5 metres) and other passengers’ wishes all come into consideration once you set sail. Some operators will stop on Wasini Island so you can feast on freshly caught seafood.

For more information, go to: www.kws.org/parks/parks_reserves/ KMNP.html

considered to be part of this national treasure. A couple of the islands are covered in grass and herbs, while two others have dense coastal equatorial forest. It’s in the forest that visitors will find the coconut crab, related to the hermit crab, lives, weighing up to 4 kg and measuring as much as 1 metre

‘Kisite is home to 70 resident wild dolphins and a large cast of coconut crabs, the largest arthropods on land’ Visitors to Kisite, whether they are

from leg to leg. Trails enable visitors to

fi rst-time snorkellers (like this writer)

explore the flora and fauna. Or one may

or seasoned scuba divers, will fi nd an

catch a glimpse, over a picnic lunch,

abundance of life, including trigger

of Kisite’s diving roseate terns, which

fish, angelfish, butterfly fish, groupers,

breed in coastal colonies and often nest

parrotfish, pufferfish, damselfish, snap-

in a hollow or under dense vegetation.

pers and green sea turtles. Some of the © Pamela J. Karg

est pebble can be removed. They are all

For the heartier traveller, KWS

dolphins have made Kisite their perma-

issues overnight camping permits

nent home, while humpback whales and

on the islands. Visitors can also hire

whale sharks are seasonal visitors. In

two-person KWS tents to explore the

addition, the brilliantly coloured coral

hidden night-time treasures of Kenya’s

and swaying sea grass beds create an

marine park.

AFRICA’S LOW COST AIRLINE: www.fly540.com

23

FOODFOR THOUGHT

GREAT AMBIENCE AND SUPERB CUISINE © Steve Anderson Photography

By Joan Wandegi

THE TALISMAN RESTAURANT we dine at the newly refur-

bished Talisman Restaurant, in the

striking tapestries fits in well with the various art pieces, generating a vibe that makes you want to spend time

leafy Karen suburb of Nairobi, I must

experiencing the moment.

me that restaurants are prone to the

ANXIOUS

admit I was sceptical. It seems to

syndrome of fashionable restoration,

where the ambience fails to be reflected in the cuisine or service offered.

I for one love to experiment with

I was anxious to tuck into some good food and the menu defi nitely whetted my appetite. The restaurant offers a delicious assortment of starters

food, and discovering what is great

and appetisers. The choice includes

about a restaurant is like unwrapping

Zanzibari coconut seafood soup, double

a delectable gift. As I walked into this

crunchy California

restaurant, my senses came alive. The

rolls and potted salmon

magical synchronicity between decor

served with fresh rolls.

and attention to detail was delightful.

I chose twice-cooked

What the Talisman team have done

pork belly that was

© Steve Anderson Photography

W

hen a friend of mine suggested

‘The delicate balance of spice against the moist fish created a party in my mouth that danced to the music playing in the background’

with the place is simply ideal. The

done to perfection.

outdoor garden has been brought to

Tender pieces of pork

life with majestic fi g trees and exotic

topped with a honey

plants, a haven for birds. Inside,

soy glaze and served

gorgeous carved wooden pillars give

with charred vegetables leave the taste

fi sh created a party in my mouth that

depth to the restaurant’s open spaces,

buds craving more.

danced to the music playing in the

which are made cosy with fi replaces.

The marriage of warm colours and

For my main course I went with the five-spice yellow fi n tuna. The fi sh was

background.

You can expect to pay between KES

as fresh as if it had been plucked out

3,500 and KES 4,000 for a full meal

of the sea that evening. The delicate

and afterwards you can retreat to the

balance of spice against the moist

bar for a drink. Now here is where the

© Steve Anderson Photography

party really begins. I was especially

LOOKS GOOD 

lucky on the night as the restaurant

Left: Chop sticks if you want

the time to chat about his work. Appar-

Above Right: Crème Brûlée For further information visit: www.thetalismanrestaurant.com/main/

was hosting a local artist who made ently this is quite the norm at Talisman. So, if you seriously want a good night out, especially with friends, try out the Talisman.

AFRICA’S LOW COST AIRLINE: www.fly540.com

25

ProductReview

Blackberry Z10

FULLY TOUCH-SCREEN SMARTPHONE WILL KEEP FANS HAPPY T

he long-awaited BlackBerry

Z10 – the fi rst fully touch-screen

smartphone from BlackBerry – has fi nally arrived after a somewhat rocky inception.

Personalisation seems to be low on the agenda for this device, which is available only in white or black; but

keyboard. For diehard BlackBerry

all updates all the

fans it may be difficult to relinquish

time with no fi lter

the much-loved keyboard; however,

option, leaving those

the touch keyboard is something the

with active online

BlackBerry Z10 has executed well and

lives bombarded

may be enough to win over even the

by yet another

most enthusiastic of keyboard fans.

overwhelming set

The predictive element is a stroke

of constant notifications.

the design is sleek and pleasing, if

of inspiration. It learns the most

This would be a great idea if there were

undeniably influenced by the iPhone 5.

frequently used words as well as the

more control; or, equally, for those who

repetitive mistakes of the user to

are not very active online.

The Z10 has a larger screen than the iPhone 5 but is still comfortable to

create a very user-friendly functional-

hold in one hand and is smaller than

ity much better than the competition.

FEATURE

the slightly unwieldy 4.7 inch screen

For those unable or unwilling to give

Another major feature of the

of the HTC One, although it weighs a

up the BlackBerry keyboard, there is a

BlackBerry Z10 is the BBM Video with

full 24 g more than the iPhone 5 and

new BlackBerry Q10 that has retained

Screen Share. This allows BBM chat

is one gram heavier than the HTC One.

the keyboard feature and is released

to be switched to a video conversation

However, the plastic soft-touch back

in April.

and the screen share function makes

cover makes the BlackBerry Z10 feel

it possible to share photos, look at

sturdy in the hand and it is a thing of

KEYBOARD

beauty, if not wholly original.

Aside from its lack of keyboard,

In addition, the camera has a time-

which may be a real sticking point

shift mode that takes a few seconds of

for some BlackBerry purists,

photo and then allows the user to scroll

the next noticeable change is its

through and select the exact image

The fi rst major feature of this redesigned phone is that there is no

interface, which has been completely redesigned with the addition of the BlackBerry Hub. This is designed to create

documents and other visuals via BBM.

‘The predictive element is a stroke of inspiration’

smooth navigation around the device, allowing a flow between

The BlackBerry Z10 has a user-

open and close them, as with most

Stylish and practical accessories are available for the BlackBerry Z10 like the BlackBerry Mini Stereo Speaker. Perfect for travel the clip on design allows attachment to a bag strap or it can be simply placed on a table. Using the Bluetooth facility the smartphone the speaker is able to play music wirelessly or can be used for conference calling. It is compatible with BlackBerry 10 devices.

on automatically and is sometimes easy to forget.

applications instead of having to

SOUND DESIGN 

they want – although this is not turned

other operating systems. With the

friendly interface that is pleasing if

Hub, a swipe across the screen to the

not ground-breaking and, at similar

right reveals all inboxes, from email to

prices to its competitors, the choice of

social networking sites, while swiping

the BlackBerry Z10 is going to be one

downwards can reveal calendars and

of taste rather than economy. A good

appointments etc.

little gadget, the phone is probably not trail-blazing enough to persuade

The Hub is a good idea, because instant access to accounts and updates

a dyed-in-the-wool iPhone or HTC

all in one spot is time-saving and desir-

user to switch, but will be enough

able. However, in practicality it can

to keep BlackBerry fans happy and

be a little overwhelming, as it gives

BlackBerry out of trouble.

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27

LATEST RELEASES

BOOKWORM  ONLY THE DEAD

A QUIET KIND OF COURAGE

THIRTY SECOND WORLD

By Hamilton Wende

By Anthony Schneider

By Emma van der Vliet

The Claws of God are an army of child soldiers existing deep within the Ugandan Jungle led by the villainous General Faustin. The brainwashed children believe that the man controlling them, Papa Mephisto, has the power of the lion.

Psychologist Tania Richter is trying to protect these children and to do so she enlists the help of Sebastian Burke who has knowledge of the history of lion mythology. Sebastian and Tania become entangled in a conflict that threatens a nuclear attack and they must use the history of lions and humans to save the children and the world.

28

Issue 9

Anthony Schneider’s latest novel explores the themes of home, exile and the ripple effect of one man’s actions on the generations to follow.

This story spans space and time from South Africa to New York both past and present with narratives that intertwine to expose the history and consequences of the actions of Henry Wegland. Currently living in New York, Henry encourages his grandson Saul to travel to South Africa to make a documentary about South African liberation. When Saul is kidnapped he unpicks the secrets Henry thought long buried with his ANC activist past.

Thirty Second World tells the story of two women Alison and Beth. Alison seems to have it all, a glamorous job in the South African film industry and two children who she ably cares for.

However, the text messages she regularly sends to her friend Evie tell a different story. Beth, new to the advertising industry is watching her home life unravel as she is tempted by the advances of a colleague. Both women are forced to face their lives when an accident during a film shoot in the middle of the South African bush throws them together revealing dark secrets.

LATESTRELEASES

BLOCKBUSTERS  THE CROODS

Starring: Emma Stone, Ryan Reynolds, Nicolas Cage Director: Kirk De Micco & Chris Sanders Genre: Family, adventure, animation When their cave is destroyed The Croods must journey across a fantastical landscape. With their home in ruins and a perilous adventure ahead, The Croods are truly the first modern family who will discover seismic shifts that will change their lives forever.

THE HEAT

Starring: Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy, Marlon Wayans Director: Paul Feig Genre: Comedy, action The buddy movie is back. From the director of Bridesmaids a new comedy starring Sandra Bullock and Melissa McCarthy finds an uptight and meticulous FBI agent teamed up with a foul mouthed, short-tempered Boston cop. They are thrown together to track down a vicious drug lord.

The mismatched officers have never had a friend or a partner before and must learn to get along or maybe even befriend each other.

OBLIVION

Starring: Tom Cruise, Morgan Freeman, Olga Kurylenko Director: Joseph Kosinski Genre: Sci-fi, action, adventure It is the future and after decades of war with the Scavs Earth is unrecognisable. Oblivion is the story of Jack Harper one of the repairmen assigned to look after the drones which are extracting the remaining resources from the Earth. When Jack discovers a crashed spacecraft and rescues a beautiful stranger a chain of events unravel which place the fate of humankind firmly in his hands.

CROSSBONES

By Nuruddin Farah One of the most highly acclaimed international authors Nuruddin Farah’s has a new instalment to the Past Imperfect trilogy of novels that started with Links, continued with Knots and is completed with this new offering of Crossbones.

Two brothers return to Somalia after many years of absence. Malik is a freelance journalist determined to report the dysfunction of the government and his older brother Ahl is travelling for more personal reasons, to locate his stepson Taxliil who has made his way to Somalia under the influence of jihadist imam to train as a suicide bomber. They are both in a search for knowledge that will lead to a race against time to rescue Taxliil, deposit Malik’s stories before the violence against journalists reaches their door and leave the region before war breaks out.

IRON MAN 3

Starring: Robert Downey Jr, Guy Pearce, Gwyneth Paltrow Director: Shane Black Genre: Action, sci-fi In the latest instalment of the Iron Man franchise Tony Stark will be tested to the limits when a terrorist tears his world apart. Stark must embark on a quest to find those responsible and use his instincts to protect those he loves.

THIS IS 40

Starring: Paul Rudd, Leslie Mann, Jason Segel Director: Judd Apatow Genre: Comedy This is 40 takes a look at how Pete and Debbie, two of the characters first seen in Apatow’s Knocked Up, are faring a few years after the first film at a time when they are both turning 40. Debt, unhappiness and rebellious children have led to a turning point and a mid-life crisis for the couple. How will they learn to love growing older in this heart-warming comedy about family, love and marriage?

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MA A Y N A W R O T C I V : E L PROFI

WILL KENYAN SOCCER STAR JOIN THE GUNNERS?

Š Stafford Ondego

Is it now time for the Harambee Stars footballer Victor Wanyama to wave goodbye to Glasgow and Celtic and head south to London and the English Premier League?

30

Issue 9

PROFILER: VICTOR WANYAMA

W

ell, if the rumours circulating in the UK are to be believed,

then Arsenal manager Arsène

Wenger may wipe the cobwebs off his little-used chequebook and make the super-talented Wanyama his big offseason signing.

How true these rumours are is anyone’s guess, but they are persistent. A while back there was even talk of the holding midfielder departing Celtic Park in the January transfer window. At that moment, Celtic seemed reluctant to let Wanyama go – especially as the club was still, and unusually, in the last 16 of the Champions League. Since then Italian giants Juventus have unceremoniously © Stafford Ondego

dumped the Hoops out of the competition, thrashing the Glasgow

‘Wanyama has maintained his gritty

team 5-0 across a two-leg tie.

box-to-box displays in the Scottish Premier League’

GRITTY Despite the Champions League exit, however, Wanyama has maintained his gritty box-to-box displays in what is

until the second half of the season. He

they were getting a sell-on fee for their

generally a second-rate Scottish Premier

will also face much more competition

former prodigy. Wanyama will also

League (SPL). And Arsenal have kept a

for places with a central Arsenal

be looking to match the kind of salary

close watch on their number one target.

midfield comprising Arteta, Wilshire,

enjoyed by his brother McDonald

Ramsey and Diaby.

Mariga at Italian Serie A side Parma.

With the absence of arch-rivals

Wanyama’s age will be a plus point

Rangers, Celtic have dominated this

A transfer fee somewhere north of

season’s SPL and some of the Bhoys’

GBP 10 million (KES 130 million) has

for Arsenal as Wenger looks to adapt

games have to be considered less than

been mentioned, of which Wanyama

the young Kenyan to the Gunners’

evenly matched. Wanyama certainly

should get a cut of 10 per cent. If

quick-passing style.

faces this situation at Arsenal, where

he moves to the Emirates Stadium,

the London team under performed

and despite Wenger’s parsimonious

FORWARD

reputation, Wanyama is likely to see a

Arsenal has been accused of being good

hefty rise in his wages. A sign that he

going forward but not when defending;

may be on the move is that Wanyama’s

and too lightweight in midfield, with

agent has already turned down an

too many ballplayers and not enough

improved contract at Celtic.

ball winners. Big, combative and

© Stafford Ondego

Wanyama’s current deal expires

versatile, Wanyama – who can also put

in 2015. So Celtic have the option to

the ball in the net and can even play

sell now and get good money for a

in the back four – would certainly fit

player who cost just GBP 0.9 million

the bill and solve some of the Gunners’

when signed in 2011 from Antwerp’s

apparent deficiencies of late in this

Beerschot AC, or see their star

particular area.

midfielder head out of the door on a

So let’s see if Arsenal do make the

‘free’ when his contract ends.

big money offer or whether there is

Wanyama can probably expect to

another Premier League team poised

receive more than GBP 50,000 a week

to make Victor ‘Mugabe’ Wanyama the

KENYA'S BEST? 

at Arsenal – not bad for a 21-year-old

fi rst Kenyan to play in the top fl ight of

who only a few years ago was turning

English football. I’m sure that football-

Top right: Box-to-box ball winner Above: Playing for Harambee Stars

out for Nairobi City Stars. How the

mad Kenyans just can’t wait for this

Kawangware-based club must wish

to happen.

AFRICA’S LOW COST AIRLINE: www.fly540.com

31

CITYGUIDE

JUBA,

SOUTH SUDAN Juba

South Sudan

A

s the capital of the world’s

newest nation, Juba still lacks

Lodwar

UGANDA

certainly anything that an expatriate might wish to consume – are imported

the sophistication enjoyed by other

by truck.

This is understandable when an

WHERE TO STAY 

town is transformed by geopolitics.

Acacia Village

K

similar destinations in the region. otherwise unremarkable regional For the time being, and for the foreseeable future, most foreign visi-

tors to Juba are either on business or associated in some way with expense account-funded official government and diplomatic activity, a non-governmental organisation (NGO) or an aid agency.

For this reason, hotel accommodation is often quite expensive as well as being limited and of varying quality. It is not

Worth a visit... 

Clean and well presented in pleasant, leafy gardens. Pool. www.acaciavillage.com

Afex

Bungalows and tents with DSTV. http://www.afexgroup.com/camp_juba.php

Juba Grande Hotel

Near airport and of a reasonable standard

standards Service in both hotels and restaurants is on the slow side, but standards are improving gradually. International cuisine is available – in particular Ethiopian and Eritrean cooking – while other eating places offer Kenyan and Ugandan menus.

In the evening, there are plenty of bars and nightclubs from which to choose. Again, these vary in quality.

As a general rule, the cost of

N

As a Johnny-come-lately capital, Juba is not exactly blessed with interesting sights, fine buildings, café-ringed piazzas and the like, but no visit would be complete without seeing the River Nile and the Nile Bridge.

It’s best to look out of town. One or two game parks and reserves are within a reasonably easy drive and there is some truly amazing wildlife to view (see separate story this issue).

Bangingilo National Park is fairly close; but, realistically, it can only be a day visit owing to the lack of overnight facilities.

Located on the banks of the Nile. http://www.jubabridgehotel.com/

The Roots Project

PLACES TO EAT & DRINK  Da Vinci’s Restaurant

Expensive, but has pleasant atmosphere and delightful views over the Nile.

A local NGO is working with women and exhibits their handiwork, such as beads, crafts, pipes made of bullet casings, belts, vases, purses and rather splendid sandals.

The Project is located near the basketball stadium in Nimra Talata.

Juba Game Reserve: This 20 sq km park, just outside the capital, is home to some interesting birdlife, including Heuglin’s francolin and the Arabian bustard.

Ebony Restaurant

Serves mostly Indian cuisine.

Spice and Herbs

Tel: +211 97725 6969 Expensive, but has pleasant atmosphere and delightful views over the Nile.

Notos Lounge Bar & Grill

Outdoor seating area with a tandoor. Popular with expatriates and not cheap.

Le Bistro

living is much higher in Juba than in

Famed for its soups and Italian coffee. No alcohol, though. Logali House, Hai Amarat

surrounding capitals because nearly

Fresh Freddies

all goods – even basic foodstuffs, and

Kisumu

TANZANIA

Juba Bridge Hotel

unheard-of for guests to end up sleeping in a converted shipping container.

Eldoret

Arguably the best stocked bar in Juba.

Africa’s low cost airline: www.fly540.com

33

Dar es

THE X-FACTOR

By Karl Peskett

W

hat’s the defi nition of cute?

Ugly, but interesting.

By that rendition, surely the Nissan

X-Trail qualifies as 'cute'. Sure, it’s not the prettiest vehicle on earth, but its qualities go far beyond shapely sheet metal. As Nissan’s small SUV, it has a lot to live up to, especially with the Pathfinder and sixth-generation Patrol stamping their

SPACE vEHICLE  The X-Trail has useful drawers under the boot floor

34

Issue 9

mark on the off-road scene.

While the styling may leave a bit to be desired, that boxy shape really does liberate plenty of space. From the colossal 603-litre boot (479 litres with the underfloor drawers) to the generous fi rst and second rows, it’s perfect

MotorReview: Nissan X-Trail

DOWNHILL RACER  Whatever your sport, the X-Trail can hold all the kit you'll need

road? Excellent, actually. With oilysmooth steering, a brilliant ride and, in diesel form, an accomplished auto, it’s a pleasure to be in the driver’s seat. It’s a good thing, then, that the seats are well padded and, when optioned in leather, easy to clean and maintain. Plenty of adjustment means there’s an ideal driving position for just about everyone.

QUaLity At this price level, the quality is good, too. The dashtop plastics all look and feel premium, it’s screwed together so that there are no shimmies or rattles, and the cupholders placed in each corner of the dash are a great use of available space.

Buyers aren’t stifled for choice, either; there are petrol or diesel, manual or automatic, two-wheel drive or all-wheel drive. Our pick? Go for the AWD diesel; it’s cheaper on fuel and has a much better gearbox than the petrol models. for a small family. But don’t think of it as just another jacked-up wagon. Oh no, it’s much more than that.

cLearance With 212 mm of ground clearance, it will negotiate most rocky trails without

‘It truly shines in deep, boggy sand where the All-Mode 4x4 system works its magic, supplying power fore and aft to keep you churning through’

grinding, but it truly shines in deep, boggy sand, where the All-Mode 4x4

As an accomplished all-rounder,

system works its magic, supplying

the X-Trail is fabulous. It really does

power fore and aft to keep you churning

tackle the rough stuff, yet handles

through. Let the tyres down a bit, switch

blacktop with aplomb. It’s also

stability control off, keep your momen-

extremely practical and versatile.

tum going and it’s near-unstoppable.

Of the current crop of soft-roaders,

But what is the X-Trail like where it will spend most of its time – on the

the X-Trail is defi nitely worth a closer look.

AfricA’s low cost Airline: www.fly540.com

35

THE FLY540

OW

COST AIR L

E IN

AFRICAS L

NETWORK AT: E N m NLI o O c .

K 0 BOO ly54

A FR

36

Issue 9

w.f w w

ICA

NETWORK

SOUTH SUDAN Juba

Lodwar

UGANDA KENYA Eldoret Kisumu

Nairobi

Lamu Malindi

Mombasa

TANZANIA Zanzibar

AfricA’s low cost Airline: www.fly540.com

37

CHINUA ACHEBE

T

he word ‘legend’ is overused

when describing public figures;

but in the case of Chinua Achebe it

has never been more apt. Considered one of the most influential African writers of his generation, this

groundbreaking novelist, poet and

essayist was as controversial as he was talented.

Achebe was born in Ogidi, Nigeria, in 1930, the son of a missionary school teacher. Although his parents were devoutly evangelical, they made a great effort to raise Achebe with traditional Igbo values. This clash of

Turbulent times that produced a

© Stafford Ondego

Literary giant cultures was the result of a life lived

where he excelled, graduating at 18.

in colonial Nigeria and these experi-

He studied medicine at the University

ences shaped Achebe’s writing. In fact,

College at Ibadan but then switched to

Achebe did not learn English until he

Liberal Arts and began to write for one

was eight years old and he was exposed

of the university’s publications. After

equally to Igbo and English stories and

graduating in 1953 he worked for the

language.

Nigerian Broadcasting Corporation,

At the age of 14, Achebe attended the Government College in Umuahia,

moving to Lagos, where he met his

TRuE TALENT

wife, Christie Okoli. They married in 1961 and had four children. Shortly

‘Although his parents were devoutly evangelical, they made a great effort to raise Achebe with traditional Igbo values’

after his time in Lagos, Achebe went to England to work for the British Broadcasting Corporation.

Professor Chinua Achebe produced many great works during his writing career, earning worldwide acclaim and bringing a truly African voice to the international arena.

tHings faLL aPart

Prize. The book looks at the effects of

In 1958, a few years before the

British colonialism on the Igbo society

outbreak of the Nigerian Civil War,

of the late 19th century. The act of

Achebe’s fi rst and most famous novel,

writing in post-colonial Nigeria played

‘Things Fall Apart’, was published and

an important role in redefi ning the

won the Margaret Wong Memorial

nation and Chinua Achebe’s voice was

AfricA’s low cost Airline: www.fly540.com

39

Chinua Achebe instrumental in this. He achieved iconic status around the world through his work, helping to change international views of Africa and African writing.

However, Achebe was criticised in his home country for writing in English. Many felt he should write in Igbo to reclaim the mother tongue, but Achebe used the language of the oppressor to express the consequences of oppression. In addition to this domestic criticism, many Western academics thought he idealised pre-colonial Africa. Today, his work remains as criticised as it is revered; the true mark of great literature.

controversy With the outbreak of civil war in Nigeria, Achebe fled to Europe and then the USA, where he spent much of his illustrious academic career at Brown University in Providence,

as the result of a lecture in 1975 in

Rhode Island.

which he claimed that Joseph Conrad’s

Controversy often followed Achebe and he achieved academic infamy

‘Heart of Darkness’ was racist – an opinion widely accepted today. His

‘Controversy often followed Achebe and he achieved academic infamy as the result of a lecture in 1975 in which he claimed that Joseph Conrad’s ‘Heart of Darkness’ was racist’

brown university  Professor Achebe spent much of his sparkling academic career in the United States teaching African studies at Brown University, Providence, Rhode Island.

the controversy that often surrounded him, his writing won critical acclaim throughout the world, leading to the inclusion of many of his books on university reading lists and winning

theory caused shockwaves through the

accolades and awards including the

academic establishment of the 1970s.

2007 Man Booker International Prize

Achebe went on to produce many

for his distinguished prose.

other works including ‘Arrow of God’ and ‘A Man of the People’ and, despite

voice of a generation Achebe used a wheelchair after a car accident in 1990 led to partial paralysis. Achebe never returned to Nigeria after this incident.

Professor Chinua Achebe died aged 83 on 21 March this year. The authentic voice of a generation and an inspiration to authors around the world, Achebe was a great, influential and controversial talent who lived through tough times and still thought

Literary debut  Set in the rural Nigeria of the 19th century, Achebe's debut novel 'Things Fall Apart' has become a staple of university reading lists.

that ‘suffering should be creative, should give birth to something good and lovely’* ’ *Source – ‘A Man of the People'

Africa’s low cost airline: www.fly540.com

41

FLY540 VISA

M FOR ATION N I

TRAVEL INFORMATION VISA INFORMATION

M

ost nationals require visas

KENYAN VISAS

from the five East African states

Visas are required for most nationals and cost US$50. A visa can be obtained on entry, however we recommended one be obtained before arrival to avoid airport lengthy queues. Visa Application Forms are available online.

Common Market of East and South-

A visa is required by all visitors travelling to Kenya with the exception of those holding a re-entry pass to Kenya and citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay.

to enter East Africa. Citizens

require no visas while those from the ern Africa (COMESA) member states have relaxed entry requirements into East Africa.

However, East African member states have their own visa requirements for various nationals.

Note that the reciprocal visa abolition agreements with Germany, Italy, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Spain, and Republic of Ireland no longer apply and nationals of these countries now require a visa.

Kenya Visa Requirements

•

• • •

•

Valid passport with sufficient number of unused pages for endorsements abroad. Passport must be signed and valid for at least six months.

Visa application form duly completed and signed by the applicant.

Two recent passport size photographs attached to the application form.

Valid round trip ticket or a letter from your travel agent certifying that the applicant holds prepaid arrangements.

A self-addressed stamped envelope for express mail, courier, registered mail, etc., if the visa is urgently required. Metered stamps are not acceptable.

• Home and work telephone numbers.

Please fill out the form correctly and enclose the photographs and payment to avoid delay and disappointment.

Standard Visa fees payable by cash to the Embassy of Kenya.

Visa fees charges:

• Multiple entry: US$100 • Single entry: US$50 • Transit Visa: US$20 1. Please note that all children below 16 years are not charged visa fees 2. The reduced visa fees were effected on 1 march 2009, as directive from ministry of tourism on attracting more tourists in to the country.

3. Passengers can pay in US dollars, British pounds, Euro or Swiss franc.

For more information and to download a Kenya visa application form visit: http://www.immigration.go.ke/index.php

42

Issue 9

TravelInformation

SOUTH SUDAN VISAS

Immigration regulations stipulate that anyone going to South Sudan and wishing to travel outside of Khartoum needs a travel permit from the Government of South Sudan. Those travelling to South Sudan from Kenya, should visit the South Sudan Embassy in Kenya.

VACCINA 0 T 54

Requirements:

All applicants to launch their visas in person Passport must be valid for at least six month and presented on submission of application Two recent colour passport-size photos Yellow fever vaccination card Letter of invitation and intent Standard Visa fees payable by balance transfer to: Government of South Sudan Special Permit Account Bank: Kenya Commercial Bank; Sarit Centre Branch A/C No. 402004247

N IO

• • • • •

Fees: • • • •

FO N IN RMAT IO

The Republic of South Sudan has missions in Kenya, Egypt, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Uganda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Zimbabwe, Nigeria, South Africa, Australia, Norway, Belgium, the UK, Germany, France, Turkey, Libya, China, India, Italy, Canada and the USA.

FLY

Any visitor going to South Sudan through Khartoum requires a valid visa. Visas are issued through the South Sudan Embassy.

HEALTH

Multiple entry: US$250 (six months)/US$400 (one year) Single entry for countries with common boarder with South Sudan: US$50 Single entry for other African countries: US$100 Single entry for European and US citizens: US$100

Vaccination requirements for international travellers

Processing period: Two working days

• No cholera vaccination certificates are required of travellers coming from all over the world.

TANZANIAN VISAS All foreigners from non-Commonwealth countries are required to have a valid visa unless their countries have agreements with Tanzania under which the visa requirement is waived.

Exemptions: Citizens of Commonwealth countries are not required to obtain visas unless they are citizens of the United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, South Africa, New Zealand or Australia.

Tanzanian visas are issued by the following:

• The office of the Director of Immigration Services, Dar es Salaam, and the office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar.

• Entry points to the United Republic of Tanzania: principally Namanga, Tunduma, Sirari, Horohoro, Kigoma Port, Dar es Salaam International Airport, Kilimanjaro International Airport, Zanzibar Harbour and Zanzibar Airport.

• Any other gazetted entry point.

• From Tanzania High Commissions or embassies abroad. For more information on Tanzanian diplomatic missions visit: www.tanzania.go.tz/tanzaniaembassiesabroad.htm

• Only valid yellow fever vaccination certificates are required of all travellers over one year old, arriving from yellow fever infected countries mainly in central and West Africa, South and Central America South East Asia, India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh.

• Vaccination for international travellers are obtainable from all international air and sea ports, city and major municipal councils NB: Make sure you get your yellow fever shot in good time since the yellow fever certificate is valid for travel use 10 days after vaccination.

Africa’s low cost airline: www.fly540.com

43

F

ly540 operates modern aircraft

Cessna Caravan C208

and is constantly updating and

modernising its fleet.

Type: Single turboprop engine, fixed-gear short-haul regional airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 10 passengers

The company uses aircraft such

as the ATR 72-500, which burns only half as much fuel as some other aircraft and also emits less carbon into the atmosphere.

This underlines the fact that Fly540 is a ‘green airline’ that cares for the environment.

The crew and engineering team are professionally trained and certified to ICAO standards.

BOMBARDIER DASH 8 102 SERIES 

ATR 72-500

Type: Twin-engined, medium-range, turboprop airliner Number in service: Three Capacity per aircraft: 37 passengers

Type: Twin-engine turboprop shorthaul regional airliner Number in service: Two Capacity per aircraft: 78 passengers

DC-9 Type: Twin-engine, single-aisle jet airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 80 passengers

Fokker F27 Type: Turboprop cargo airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 1,336 x 210 x 190 cm cargo hold

44

Issue 9

FLEETINFORMATION

THE fly540

AIRCRAFT FLEET

Canadair CL-600-2B19 Regional Jet  Type: Twin-engine regional jet Number in service: Three Capacity per aircraft: 50 passengers

Fokker F28 Type: Short range jet airliner Number in service:One Capacity per aircraft: 67 passengers

Africa’s low cost airline: www.fly540.com

45

KIDZ CORNER FRUITY WORDSEARCH Can you find the words listed below in the letter grid?

APPLE LEMON GRAPE BANANA LIME ORANGE PLUM PEACH MELON PEAR

E F E G H M A M K L

I

I M E N L

U N P R G L A S L T P N R O N W

RIDDLE ME THIS...

P E A R A N A F

What runs but never walks?

X R B F P V B N

Answer: A tap

What is full of holes but can still hold water?

Answer: A sponge

46

A C D L E M O N

Issue 5

O A C P E A C H

KIDZCORNER

SPOT THE

DIFFERENCE

We've made 9 changes to the picture, can you spot them?

JOKE TIME! Q. Why are ghosts bad liars?

A. Because you can see right through them

Q. How do you make a milkshake?

A. Give it a good scare

Q. What has forty feet and sings?

A. The school choir

Q. What did 0 say to 8?

A. Nice belt

Q. Why did the picture go to jail?

A. Because it was framed

WORD COUNT DEMONST R AT ION

The words have to be at least THREE letters long. And you can't use the letter twice in the same word, unless the letter appears twice in the word. Ready, Steady, Go!

Africa’s low cost airline: www.fly540.com

47

Contacts

CONTACT INFORMATION FIVE FORTY AFRICA – HEAD OFFICE

Riverside Green Suites, Palm Suite, Riverside Drive PO Box 10293-00100 Nairobi, Kenya

Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/5 Fax/Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2396 Sales: Tel: +254 (0)737 540 540 Email: info@fly540.com

WILSON AIRPORT 540 SAFARI CIRCUIT SALES Ground floor, Langata House

Tel: +254 (0)20 254 0206 Tel: +254 (0)729 540 540 Tel: +254 (0)735 540 540

Email: 540.safaris@fly540.com

ELDORET 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Tel: +254 (0)53 203 3570/80 ELDORET INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

540 Ticketing & Reservations Office

Tel: +254 (0)53 203 0814 Tel: +254 (0)53 206 3823 ext 658

540 CALL CENTRE

ABC Place, off Waiyaki Way

Tel: +254 (0)20 445 3252/6 Cell: +254 (0)722 540 540; (0)733 540 540 Fax: +254 (0)20 445 3257

JOMO KENYATTA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE, Unit 3 (Domestic Departures)

Tel: +254 (0)20 827 523 Tel: +254 20 827 366 Cell: +254 727 532 273

Unit 1 (International Departures)

Tel: +254 (0)20 827 521

LAMU – NORTH COAST TRAVEL SERVICE Tel: +254 (0)42 213 0312 Tel: +254 (0)42 463 2054 Tel: +254 (0)725 942 444

Email: nctslamu@swiftmalindi.com Email: nctsmalindi@swiftmalindi.com

MOI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, MOMBASA Tel: +254 (0)41 343 4821 Tel: +254 (0)32 540 540; (0)722 555 730

LAICO REGENCY – 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Mezz. floor, Shopping Arcade

Tel: +254 (0)20 224 3211/3/4 Cell: +254 727 540 540; (0)737 540 540 Fax: +254 (0)20 224 3219

Issue 9

RESERVATIONS Tel: +49 (0)69 770 673 076 Fax: +49 (0)69 770 673 028 Email: Res540.FRA@aviareps.com

SALES Tel: +49 (0) 69 770 673 077 Fax: +49 (0)69 770 673 235

SALES Tel: +27 (0) 722 0229 / +27 74 177 1596

RESERVATIONS Tel: +39 02 4345 8346 Fax: +39 02 4345 8336

Barclays Centre, Diani Road

Tel: +254 (0)20 354 6532 Tel: +254 (0)726 453 246

UGANDA ENTEBBE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE

Tel: +256 (0)314 540 540 Tel: +256 (0)315 540 540 Sales: Tel: +256 (0)713 540 540

KAMPALA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE 1st Floor, Oasis Mall

Tel: +256 (0)414 346 915/999 Tel: +256 (0)312 540 540 Sales: Tel: +256 (0)712 540 540; (0)776 540 540

Email: Sales.juba@fly540.com

BELGIUM AVIAREPS AG

J.E. Mommaertslaan 16b (2nd floor), 1831 Diegem

RESERVATIONS Tel: +32 (0)2 712 04 93 Fax: +32 (0)2 725 83 92

Email: Res540.BRU@aviareps.com

SALES Tel: +32 (0)2 712 05 84 Fax: +32 (0)2 725 83 92

38 Wierda Road West Wierda Valley Sandton, Johannesburg

RESERVATIONS Tel: +27 (0) 11 722 0229 Fax: +27 (0) 11 783 8135

UKUNDA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS

Email: Sales540.BRU@aviareps.co

48

AVIAREPS (PTY) Ltd

Kaiserstrasse 77 60329 Frankfurt am Main

AVIAREPS AG

JUBA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Tel: +211 959 540540; +211 999 540540

Tel: +254 (0)770 639 429 Tel: +254 (0)724 457 374 Tel: +254 (0)735 540 547

AVIAREPS AG

Tel: +254 (0)41 231 9078/9 Mob: +254 (0)728 540 540; (0)710 540 540

Ground Floor, Mombasa Trade Centre, Nkrumah Road

Tel: +254 (0)734 540 550 Tel: +254 (0)711 908 330

Terminal Building, Kitale Airstrip

SOUTH AFRICA

Email: sales540.FRA@aviareps.com

SOUTH SUDAN

KITALE TICKETING & RESERVATIONS

GERMANY

MOMBASA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE

KAKAMEGA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Holden Mall - above Nakumatt

540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS

ITALY Via Monte Rosa, 20 20149 Milan

Email: Res540.MIL@aviareps.com

SALES & MARKETING MANAGER Maria Rosa Cappelli

Mobile: +39 335 778 5936

Email: mcappelli@aviareps.com

NETHERLANDS AVIAREPS AG

Beechavenue 104 1119 PP Schiphol

RESERVATIONS Tel: +31 (0)20 654 79 29 Fax: +31 (0)20 623 01 51

Email: Res540.AMS@aviareps.com

SALES Tel: +31 (0)20 520 02 82 Fax: +31 (0)20 623 01 51

Email: Sales540.AMS@aviareps.com

RUSSIAN FEDERATION GSA AVIAREPS AG

Prospect Mira, 39 Bldg 2 129110 Moscow

RESERVATIONS Tel: +7 (495) 937 59 50 Fax: +7 (495) 937 5951

Email: Res540.MOW@aviareps.com

SALES Tel: +7 (495) 937 59 50 Fax: +7 (495) 937 5951

Email: Sales540.MOW@aviareps.com

Email: Res540.JNB@aviareps.com

Fax: +27 (0) 783 8135 Email: Sales540.JNB@aviareps.com

SWITZERLAND AIRLINE & TOURISM CENTER GmbH

Badenerstr. 15, CH-8004 Zürich

RESERVATIONS & SALES Tel: +41 (0) 44 286 99 62 Fax: +41 (0) 44 286 99 63

Email: 540-Switzerland@aviareps.com

UNITED KINGDOM FLY540

c/o AviaCircle, 28-29 The Quadrant Business Centre, 135 Salisbury Road London, NW6 6RJ

RESERVATIONS Tel: 0870 774 2250 Fax: 0870 777 7172

Email: res540@aviacircle.com

SALES Tel: 0870 774 2250 Fax: 0870 774 2250

Email: Sales540@aviacircle.com