540 Magazine - Issue 3

ISSUE 03 // NOVEMBER - JANUARY 2011

OL PEJETA

THE HOUSE

THAT ADNAN

BUILT

TOP FAMILY

ATTRACTIONS

IN & AROUND KAMPALA

STELLA MWANGI

A RISING STAR AT

EUROVISION WITH THE COMPLIMENTS OF FLY540 - AFRICA’S LOW COST AIRLINE

// 540 Issue 03 // November 2011 - January 2012

OW

COST AIR L

E IN

contents

AFRICAS L

540 magazine

: E AT N I ONL com

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4 5 y w.fl w w K BOO

16 3 4

28 Foreword tazara express Off the beaten track

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mombasa Yacht club Mombasa Yacht Club rebuilds for the future

Cover Photo © Fredrik Arff / EMI Music Norway

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news ‘10 to 4’ mountain Biking event Mountain bike fund-raising event in the Mount Kenya region

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eating out Seventh heaven

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Stella mwangi A rising star at Eurovision

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Batwa trail No ordinary forest walk

is published by

LAND & MARINE PUBLICATIONS (KENYA) LTD Suite A5, 1st Floor, Ojijo Plaza Plums Lane, off Ojijo Road, Parklands PO Box 2022, Village Market 00621, Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (0)20 374 1934 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com Editor: Denis Gathanju Sales Manager: Linda Gakuru on behalf of

FLY540 Riverside Green Suites, Palm Suite, Riverside Drive PO Box 10293-00100, Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/2/3/4/5 Email info@fly540.com www.fly540.com The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication.

No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions.

©2011 Land & Marine Publications (Kenya) Ltd

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the 540 network Location and flight maps

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Wangari maathai Feisty and courageous ‘mad’ woman who refused to be bowed

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ol Pejeta The house that Adnan built

36 38 40

travel information for east africa getting around in east africa Day trips Top family attractions in and around Kampala

44 46 48

Fly540 fleet Kids’ corner contact information Africa’s low cost airline

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// foreword

Welcome

aboard!

Welcome to ‘540’ – our in-flight magazine.

T

he timing of this magazine coincides with our fifth anniversary – 23 November. During November we will also carry our onemillionth passenger. If you are that lucky passenger, a surprise awaits you.

By the time this magazine is published, one of the new Bombardier CRJ 50-seat aircraft will have entered service. The main routes served by this aircraft will be Mombasa and Tanzania. It should also give Fly540 some extra capacity and improve our on-time performance.

On 15 October we increased our flights between Nairobi and the South Sudan capital, Juba, to double daily. We view Juba as a vitally important new destination for our rapidly expanding international network. This service began in May, just ahead of the new nation’s birth in July.

After the successful launch of our M-Pesa service, we have now introduced a ticket reservation system linked to M-Pesa

and your phone. To see how this works, please go to Page 13.

During November, we have the Lamu Cultural Festival in conjugation with the Ministry of Tourism. The festival includes a dhow and goat race – an event not to be missed. We hope the Fly540 goat is ready for action.

Festive season The Festive Season is just around the corner and we are already in high gear, making plans for Christmas parties for two children’s home we sponsor – the Imani Children’s Home and the Terry Hope Centre. These homes provide food and shelter for over 200 children. They are a worthy cause and we are proud to be associated with them.

involving the CRJ Dash 8 aircraft, a job he has much expertise on. If you need a charter, please call us.

The Fly540 family continues to grow and between last month and this October two of our beautiful flight attendants brought forth two strong and healthy boys. Congratulations, girls!

I sincerely hope you enjoy reading our magazine and that you have a pleasant flight with us today. We look forward to welcoming you on board again soon.

Don E. Smith Chief Executive Officer East Africa

Sammy Nzoka was appointed as the new Sales Manager, Commercial Jets & Executive Charters – Africa. His job will be to handle all charters including VIP flights

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OFF THE

BEATEN

TRACK

By Sam Gimson

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www.fly540.com

// Tazara Express

T

he Tazara Express leaves Dar es Salaam for Zambia only once a week, so you can imagine my concern when the tuk tuk I’d arranged to take me from my hotel to the railway station arrived half an hour late.

I then made a major error. I asked my driver to hurry up. Eager to please his passenger, he recklessly steered his machine through the heavy Dar traffic.

I strained to hold on and shut my eyes as, at top speed, we alternated between driving on the correct side of the road, the wrong side of the road and even off the road as pedestrians dashed for safety.

A few even dived into a ditch.

confusion All the while I’m calculating the likelihood of a three-wheeled vehicle, travelling at speed on uneven and unpaved roads, capsizing. But, perhaps, as with a bicycle, a tuk tuk seems to keep its balance when going fastest. Adding to the confusion, it became apparent that my driver did not actually know where the Tazara station was; yet somehow, despite all the action, we still managed to arrive on time. And, as it turns out, my hazardous journey was in vain as the train left two hours late.

sharing my journey with three others – two Tanzanian men and a Korean lady.

We set off with an alarming jolt and then another, until the jolts and jerks merged into a kind of rhythm and we rocked up to a top speed – yet it was still slower than the tuk tuk had managed earlier.

The cabin was comfortable enough, but the bathroom down the corridor was just a hole in the bottom of the carriage, which became rather unpleasant later in the journey, especially when we stopped for up to six hours at a time.

tasty For dinner, I was served chicken with rice.

I found it quite tasty. This was just as well as we had it again for lunch and evening meal every day thereafter. The kitchen was located towards the rear of the train and included two round-bottomed pans in which boiling hot oil swirled and skipped precariously to the rocking and jerking of the train. I have to say the chef did a brilliant job cooking for so many people in such hot and dangerous conditions.

I went to bed soon after my late meal and I was lulled to sleep by the train’s motion, only for it to repeatedly shake me awake again. On the first night, the train went through the Selous Game Reserve and

‘We set off with an alarming jolt and then another, until the jolts and jerks merged into a kind of rhythm and we rocked up to a top speed’ Despite the wait, time went quickly.

Tazara station is an impressive building with a surprisingly comfortable first-class lounge. It appeared that many of the waiting passengers were, like me, tourists taking the train for the sheer experience.

The Tazara line was built by the Chinese in the 1970s to connect landlocked Zambia with the port of Dar es Salaam.

When I boarded the train and entered my assigned cabin, I realised I would be

Mikumi National Park, but sadly, in the dark, we failed to spot any wildlife.

I woke to a breakfast of cold egg and boiled sausage and peered out at a remote-looking station where we had stopped. Despite my compartment being full, I was the only person spending much time in it. The Korean lady, who turned out to be a travel rep, spent her time next door with her tour group. I’m not sure where the two Tanzanian men went each

Africa’s low cost airline

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// Tazara Express

day, but they returned to the cabin only at certain stations where they would be handed mysterious boxes through the window by people waiting on the platform, only for these boxes to be packed away under the beds before they once again dispersed throughout the train.

Although nominally an express, the train stopped at several rural stations on the way to its final destination at New Kapiri Mposhi. Each time it stopped, people would come to sell everything from bananas to radios and there was often enough time to step off the train and walk around.

Prolonged On the second day, during the afternoon, we made a prolonged stop at Mbeya, where most passengers disembarked, walked about the station, enjoyed the mountain views and bought samosas and chapatis served in newspaper.

As the sun went down, I noticed some of the people from my carriage taking pictures of the train. Looking where their cameras were pointing, I could understand why, because the evening sunlight was picking out the strange and rustic appearance of our train in dramatic detail. That evening I shared a drink with fellow passengers as we recounted our experiences of Africa. We all agreed that

‘Each time it stopped, people would come to sell everything from bananas to radios and there was often enough time to step off the train and walk around’ the journey thus far had been thoroughly enjoyable and well worth the $48 we had paid for a one-way, first-class ticket.

The train approached the Zambian border at about eight o’clock that night and shortly afterwards I retired to my compartment to read. The next morning I woke to find the scenery noticeably greener and lusher than Tanzania.

I could see excited children running up to the train and waving as we passed their villages. The Korean tourists had brought sweets with them to give out.

This led to some confusion and pushing among the children, which ended in tears on at least one occasion. Even though most of them were happy just to wave from a distance, it became clear that some had learned to expect something from the train. I even saw children who did not wave at all but simply cupped their hands and stood still.

We passed through one village where children huddled around the Korean carriage yelled: “Give me money!” Then I heard: “Hey you… that one… give me money… you are an idiot!” At which point they all burst out laughing. Luckily, most of the Korean passengers could not speak English and were unaware of the insult, which was then followed up by another child shouting: “You are a fool… you are a stupid banana!”

Dramatic We arrived in New Kapiri Mposhi on the third day in the midst of another dramatic sunset. Many of the English-speaking tourists, myself included, grouped together to hire a ‘coach’ for 50,000 kwacha per person. This turned out to be a very small minibus, already crowded with passengers. Jam-packed and without a millimetre of space in which to breathe, we headed for Lusaka.

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Mombasa Yacht Club //

MOMBASA YACHT CLUB

REBUILDS FOR

THE FUTURE

by Robert Deaves

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www.fly540.com

H

aving marked its centenary in 2010, Mombasa Yacht Club has begun a rebuilding and development programme that is taking full advantage of the splendid facilities and grounds occupied by the club alongside Kilindini Harbour on the south side of Mombasa Island.

Mombasa Yacht Club has one of the most picturesque outlooks of any yacht club in the world. Club racing is held in the waters directly off the colonial-style clubhouse, which stands on an elevated headland overlooking the harbour. In spite of all the commercial traffic passing through the same stretch of water on its way between the Port of Mombasa and the open sea, the club is able to run a full racing programme for its dinghy fleet from October to June. Most racing is held off the clubhouse, though longer races do occasionally venture out to open sea.

Although the club has fallen on harder times in recent years, it has a long and fascinating history. In fact, Mombasa

The club has about 40 registered dinghies, mainly Toppers and Lasers, but also Bosuns and a few Ospreys. In general, the Topper and Bosun fleets are owned by the club while the Lasers are privately owned. It also has an enviable trophy cabinet, including silverware dating back to 1911.

mombasa Yacht club has one of the most picturesque outlooks of any yacht club in the world Yacht Club was the first sailing club on mainland East Africa. The enthusiasm to rebuild and rejuvenate is obvious, with Commodore Chris Soper and club manager Eric Rupia leading a committee that is determined to change the direction of the club and attract new members from the local community.

One of the shields on display is a reminder of better times, when club member Tony Bentley-Buckle, along with another member, Ron Blaker, represented Kenya in the Flying Dutchman class at the 1960 Olympic Games, when the sailing events were held in Naples. The shield contains all the badges collected

by Bentley-Buckle at the Olympics from other organisations and teams taking part. Bentley-Buckle qualified for the Kenyan team after the club adopted the 505 class and won the first All African 505 Championship, sailed in Mombasa in 1960.

rebuilding As part of the development programme to attract new members, the club grounds are undergoing a total refurbish-

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Mombasa Yacht Club //

ment and substantial new building work.

The club occupies a large and attractive parcel of land south of the busy business district of Mombasa with a large dinghy park next to a launching ramp, a range of boatsheds and outbuildings and the quaint clubhouse overlooking the water.

The club even has its own small beach, while off to the left is a disused and half demolished stone pier which at one time was much used by visiting yachts.

Included in the rebuilding work are new changing rooms, a new boat store, paved areas by the pool, fencing and security.

There are tentative plans, too, for a chil-

When complete, it will offer a pleasant respite away from the bustle of Mombasa town and the club’s officials hope this will attract guests to the club, first to sample its facilities and then perhaps to join as members. It also hopes to hire out its newly created facilities for functions to generate both income and interest.

Recruitment One of the biggest challenges facing the club is promoting itself to the local community and bringing in new, active members. As Eric Rupia put it: “One of our biggest problems in expanding is that

“Sailing is not a big sport in Kenya at the moment, but it could be, as we have such fantastic conditions all year round. If we could get it more recognised in Kenya and more widely publicised locally, then that would be a big help” dren’s area, an outside pool bar, an events area, improved landscaped gardens and perhaps even tennis courts and a restaurant. Most of the improvements so far have been sponsored by club members.

no-one knows we are here.” Although the club is just a stone’s throw from some of the main business areas in Mombasa and next to its two shipyards, even the local taxi drivers have a problem locating it.

However, since the club initiated a ‘sponsor a junior’ programme a few years back it has attracted a number of young Kenyans, who are now active racing members. The long-term hope is to get sailing more widely recognised by the Kenya Sports Council and ultimately to train sailors to a level high enough to qualify for the Olympics. At the moment the emphasis is on sailing tuition.

One of the club members, Teddy Ndaro, is already an RYA qualified instructor. He hopes to train to Level 2 while undertaking an IT degree course in the UK. After graduation he plans to take these skills back to Mombasa to pass on to club members and help to make sailing available to more of the local youngsters.

Chris Soper said: “Sailing is not a big sport in Kenya at the moment, but it could be, as we have such fantastic conditions all year round. If we could get it more recognised in Kenya and more widely publicised locally, then that would be a big help.”

Travelling In July the club sent several of its members about 50 km north to Kilifi Creek to take part in the 2011 East Africa Laser Championship. In total there were 16 sailors competing for the title with sailors also travelling from as far afield as Naivasha Yacht Club, west of Nairobi.

The event was organised by the Kenya Laser Association and won by Don White, with 2012 hopeful Lara Granier in second in a Radial and Simon Woods in third, all three sailors coming from Naivasha. The

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MOMBASA YACHT CLUB – TIMELINE championship was sailed over three days, from 15 to 17 July, in difficult and windy conditions that tested the stamina of all the sailors. The top sailor from Mombasa was David Mackay in sixth place, while the young Teddy Ndaro placed eighth and also won the prize for ‘best effort’.

1906

Earliest records of yacht races in Mombasa

1910

Mombasa Yacht Club officially formed

1910

First clubhouse built at Ras Kilindini on payment of annual rent of one rupee to the Uganda Railway

On the weekend following the Laser event, the Fireball class held its East Africa Championship, with eight boats attending. Kilifi Creek was the venue for the 2003 Fireball World Championship and mention of this still brings back fond memories for local enthusiasts.

1911

The club’s first trophy, the Vice Commodore’s Cup, is presented by the Hon Mr Justice W.R. Hamilton, Chief Justice of the East African Protectorate

1913

Club moves to new site at Mtongwe on the south mainland

1916

Club’s first commodore, Judge A.T. Bonham-Carter, killed in action on the first day of the Battle of the Somme

1918

Club adopts the 18 ft Solent class by the legendary British designer Capt H.H. Nicholson

1938

First interclub competition with Nairobi, Naivasha, the Lake Victoria clubs and Dar es Salaam in Tanzania

1939

Club adopts the Coot dinghy from Great Britain and the first nine boats are delivered in December 1939

1939-45 Club moves to Tudor Creek for duration of Second World War as Kilindini Harbour becomes an anchorage for warships

Mombasa Yacht Club also had two sailors competing in the recent All Africa Games in Maputo, Mozambique. Ndaro placed 15th in the Men’s Laser Radial, while Alfred Okoth placed ninth in the Laser Standard. Lara Granier, from Naivasha, finished fifth in the Women’s Laser Radials after winning the three light wind races.

Looking to the future, Chris Soper said: “MYC has links with the Kenya Yachting Association [which comprises a representative from each sailing club in Kenya] and we were given approval by the National Sports Council to send the team to the All Africa Games, with financial support from the Kenya government to cover expenses. Hopefully this means we will now be eligible to send a team to the London Olympics, if we can qualify.”

1945

Club returns to Kilindini Harbour

1946

Lease expires on land at Mtongwe and club moves to Mombasa Island, close to its boat moorings

1957

New clubhouse is formally opened and remains in use to this day

1959

Club organises a sail past for Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother during her visit to Kenya and Uganda

1960

On its 50th anniversary the club signs a 96-year lease (dating from 1 January 1953) for its site at Liwatoni from the then Colony and Protectorate of Kenya

1960

Club hosts the first All Africa 505 Championship, which had been recently adopted. Club member Tony Bentley-Buckle wins the event and represents Kenya at the 1960 Olympic Games with crew Ron Blaker in the Flying Dutchman class

1969

Club swimming pool is opened

1970-71 First Fireball and Osprey class boats are brought to the club.

1980

Growing numbers of Kenyans join the club

1978

First Laser boats are sailed at the club, although the Laser fleet does not start to grow until 1982

1982

Club’s previously large fleet of Coots is replaced by the similar Bosun dinghies, with the Royal Navy basing its fleet at the club for several years for crew recreation

1996

Topper Trust is set up to provide training for young people

2003

Declining membership leads to a reciprocal agreement with Mombasa Sports Club to promote sailing

2010

Mombasa Yacht Club celebrates its centenary.

Find out more at the club’s website: www.mombasayachtclub.org

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news //

FLY540 NEWS

Fly540 introduces direct return flights to Ukunda

F

ly540 has introduced direct return flights between Nairobi and Ukunda, Diani. These services operate from Wilson Airport on Mondays to Fridays and from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) on Saturdays.

Passengers travelling on weekdays to the south coast leave Wilson Airport at 09.30 with return flights scheduled for 11.00. On Saturdays, flights depart JKIA at 11.40 and leave Ukunda airstrip at 13.30. Passengers pay a return fare of KES 11,380 inclusive of taxes.

Passenger demand Nixon Ooko, operations director of Fly540, said: “The introduction of direct return flights to Ukunda from Nairobi has been driven by demand from passengers to and from the south coast, a popular holiday destination. The airline also operates services to Amboseli, Nanyuki and Samburu from Wilson Airport.”

Tickets for the airline’s destinations are available from travel agents and Fly540 offices at Laico Regency and ABC Place.

Full information on fares and services can be obtained from the website (fly540.com) and passengers can book flights online and pay via M-PESA. Fly540 commenced operations in November 2006 with a daily flight between Nairobi and Mombasa for local and overseas business and holiday travellers. The airline’s value-for-money flights won instant popularity and Fly540 now has 17 destinations in Kenya with

AND IN OTHER NEWS...

• Fly540 welcomed the arrival of its third Bombardier CRJ aircraft on 2 October. Based at Nairobi, this addition to the fleet will strengthen key services throughout Kenya and Tanzania.

• Following the success of scheduled flights between Nairobi and the South Sudan capital, Juba, which began in May 2011, Fly540 will operate two flights a day starting on 15 October.

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www.fly540.com

Bombardier CRJ

The introduction of direct return flights to Ukunda from Nairobi has been driven by demand from passengers to and from the south coast regional services to Bujumbura, Dar es Salaam, Entebbe, Juba, Kilimanjaro, Manyara, Mwanza, Serengeti and Zanzibar.

Payment for Fly540 tickets speeded by M-Pesa

F

ly540 passengers can now pay for their tickets by M-Pesa. This fast-growing mobile money transfer service in Kenya will enable travellers to buy the airline’s tickets from anywhere, any time as long as they are registered for M-Pesa and have money in their M-Pesa account.

Fly540 joins M-Pesa corporate Pay Bill partners using the service in Kenya including educational and financial institutions, NGOs and religious organisations, transport providers, insurance agencies, the hospitality industry, health management providers and hospitals.

Simple Fly540 operations director Nixon Ooko said: “M-Pesa will ease the procedure of buying tickets for our customers, many of whom are already familiar with using M-Pesa to pay for other services like buying goods in supermarkets, school fees, and paying bills for electricity and water.

“The process is simple. Call Fly540 and make a reservation to any of our 23 destinations. You will receive a reference

number. Go to the M-Pesa Pay Bill option and put number 540540. You will be asked for your reference number, upon which you will receive a confirmation and thereafter a ticket.”

M-Pesa will ease the procedure of buying tickets for our customers, many of whom are already familiar with using M-Pesa to pay for other services

SMS Fly540 operates scheduled flights to 17 destinations in Kenya with regional services to Entebbe, Dar es Salaam, Juba, Mwanza, Zanzibar and Kilimanjaro. The airline operates from both Jomo Kenyatta International Airport and Wilson Airport.

M-Pesa was launched in 2007 by Safaricom. This SMS money transfer system allows individuals to deposit, send and withdraw funds using their cell phones. M-Pesa has grown rapidly, currently reaching over 65 per cent of Kenya’s adult population.

It is seen as the most successful mobile phone-based financial service in the developing world.

The M-Pesa Pay Bill service allows corporate organisations to receive funds from their customers or subscribers for goods and services rendered. This targets organisations that have many transactions with customers and need convenient and timely payment.

// ‘10 to 4’ mountain biking event

MOUNTAIN BIKE FUND-RAISING EVENT in the mount KenYa region

T

he Mount Kenya ‘10 to 4’ is a downhill mountain bike race and fun ride organised by the Mount Kenya Trust. The event is held annually to raise funds for local communities and conservation efforts on Mount Kenya.

The race begins at the edge of the Mount Kenya National Reserve boundary at an elevation of over 10,000 ft and finishes in the dry savannah country below on the Laikipia plains at about 4,000 ft.

Fly540 is a consistent sponsor of the ‘10 to 4’ and in 2011 the airline donated KeS 200,000 of fuel costs

Proceeds of the ‘10 to 4’ Mountain Bike Challenge are divided between community schools and projects in the vicinity of the ‘10 to 4’ route and the Mount Kenya Trust.

Second day In 2011 a second day of racing was added to the itinerary. Known as the ‘10 to 4 Hardcore’, the second race day is aimed at elite Kenyan cyclists and extremely fit and experienced overseas entrants.

All participants compete for a range of prizes and also get to experience one of Africa’s most wonderful landscapes in an entirely unique way.

FactS anD inFormation: - the 2011 event raised KeS 2.2 million for the projects of the mount Kenya trust, which helps to conserve and protect mount Kenya (visit www. mountkenyatrust.org for more information) - Dates for the 2012 event are 17 and 18 February.

Further information and entries are available from october 2011.

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SEVENTH

HEAVEN

By Gary Gimson

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www.fly540.com

// Seven

E

aten out in Nairobi lately? Got a favourite place to dine? I certainly have.

Well, I know these things are hugely subjective and always a matter of debate and conjecture; but Seven Seafood & Grill at ABC Place on Nairobi’s Waiyaki Way easily gets my vote as the city’s best eatery – at least for now.

Opened only in late 2010, and more or less squeezed between the Mercury nightspot and a popular Java House, Seven has brought a fresh new lighttouch style of dining to a city that takes a pride in its great food and its surprisingly eclectic choice of restaurants.

Freshest For some, a seafood restaurant located over 400 km from the sea might be a place to be avoided. But Seven seems to serve up the freshest of fish and shellfish almost as if they had just been hauled out of the Indian Ocean.

Mary to shoot) with ciabatta and yummy dips as a hearty appetiser followed by a heavenly lobster cappuccino (a chowder with butter-fried lobster chunks finished with a foamy lobster bisque) and grilled king prawns (or maybe, as an alternative, a shellfish platter comprising king prawns and both slipper and spiny lobster), followed by a leisurely café latte.

Seven is one of a new generation of eateries that have sprung up throughout the city Sharp, almost clinical, clean cut and devoid of decorative frills, Seven is one of a new generation of eateries that have sprung up throughout the city.

Brew Bistro & Lounge on Ngong Road is another that comes to mind.

Seven’s growing popularity means that getting a table here can be tricky – even on, say, a Tuesday – so it is advisable to book. Expect to pay about KES 3,000 per head for two courses with a bottle of something alcoholic.

So what to choose? For me, it’s a dozen oysters (with a rich lime and Bloody

acoustics I don’t want to be picky, but for me the only downside to Seven’s iconic status as Nairobi’s brightest and best restaurant is its puzzlingly poor acoustics. For some reason, the general background hubbub makes it difficult to hear your dining companion unless he or she speaks loudly.

And, with tables shoehorned in and fellow diners a bit up close and personal, this is not always a welcome situation.

Other than that, it couldn’t be more perfect.

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Stella Mwangi //

KENyaN BorN stELLa -

A RISING STAR AT

EUROVISION ‘H

aba haba, hujaza kibaba’ was the memorable chorus sung by Stella Mwangi when she performed Norway’s entry for the Eurovision Song Contest in May this year. For those unfamiliar with the contest, Eurovision is one of the longest running TV shows and one of the most watched nonsporting events in the world.

A regular on the Norwegian hip hop scene since she was 11 years old, Stella is an experienced performer and her confidence and talent were evident during the song contest in Düsseldorf, when she is said to have “charmed the audience into submission”. Stella failed to qualify for the final, but that has not prevented the catchy sound of ‘Haba Haba’ from topping the charts in Norway and elsewhere.

Stella Mwangi was born in Kenya in 1986 and her family moved to Norway as political refugees when she was five. She remains in close touch with her heritage and is proud of her Kenyan roots.

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Her lyrics often encompass Swahili lyrics. ‘Haba Haba, Hujaza Kibaba’ (‘Small victories lead to big ones’) is an African saying she learned from her grandmother.

Her famous smile and her upbeat songs have made Stella a household name in Norway and a recognised artist throughout East Africa.

Her songs have topped the charts in Kenya, Senegal and Gambia.

Energy Her performances are full of energy and the lyrics, for the most part, are happy and inspiring. However, Stella does not shy away from singing about the discrimination that both she and her family had to endure after moving to Norway in 1991. She has been quoted as saying that her interest in music was a result of the racial abuse she encountered daily.

© Bjørn Opsahl / EMI Music Norway

a regular on the Norwegian hip hop scene since she was 11 years old, stella is an experienced performer and her confidence and talent were evident during the song contest in Düsseldorf Africa’s low cost airline

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// Stella Mwangi

Writing music was her way of putting into words the struggles she and her family had faced.

accolades Her songs have been used in several films including ‘American Pie Presents: The Naked Mile’ and ‘Save the Last Dance 2’ and in the TV series ‘CSI: NY’ and ‘Scrubs’. The singer has received various accolades, too, including the Kisima Music Award for Most Promising New Artist of 2005.

In Kenya, Stella has worked with hip hop artists such as Abbas Kubaff and Kantai and with reggae artist Ousman.

December 2006 she performed at ‘MTV Alert’ in Nairobi.

In recent months Stella has been in the news for less positive reasons. Anders Behring Breivik, the man accused of the Norway massacre in July, mentioned her in his diary when he referred to Stella’s performance at Eurovision as “an asylum seeker from Kenya performing a bongo song”.

controversy Stella has spoken out about his comments to Peter Okwoche on the BBC programme ‘Focus on Africa’, saying: “I wasn’t aware of the diary entry…Being an artiste, a public person, you have to be prepared for people having different reactions”.

Describing the massacre and bombing as

in Kenya, stella has worked with hip hop artists such as abbas Kubaff and Kantai and with reggae artist ousman In 2006 she received five nominations in the Chaguo La Teeniz Awards despite having been on the Kenyan music scene for only three months at that point.

She has also performed at high-profile events, most notably with The Rise (an African youth group) for Nelson Mandela when he was in Norway on an anti-AIDS campaign in 2005 and in

“shocking”, she went on to say: “Norway is showing the world we don’t fight hate with hate, but fight hate with love.”

Meanwhile, Stella is fast becoming a national treasure in Norway and, with her feet firmly on the ground, no doubt she will continue to warm the hearts of all who come into contact with her music.

GI - KINA AN N W

DA

STELLA M

Norwegian Eurovision Song Contest 2011

UM ALB W E N

NOW T U O © Ernst Vikne

Stella Mwangi’s album ‘Kinanda’,

by EMI and Big City Records

Africa’s low cost airline © Fredrik Arff / EMI Music Norway

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Š Great Lakes Film Production

Batwa Trail //

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THE BATWA TRAIL:

NO ORDINARY

FOREST

WALK For thousands of years the Batwa existed in the primeval forests of East africa as their indigenous and sole inhabitant. now, for the first time in history, you can experience how africa’s last forest tribe lived until only recently. discover the story of the Batwa people only on The Batwa Trail in Uganda’s mgahinga Gorilla national Park.

By Jossy Muhangi

Africa’s low cost airline

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Batwa Trail //

I

nquisitive travellers who are ‘in the know’ are heading to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park Uganda for a unique cultural experience called the Batwa Trail, which a Ugandan minister recently described as a ‘tourism product of the century’.

Meandering through a pristine ancient forest at the foot of Gahinga Ridge, the 8 km trail entails an excursion walk conducted by Batwa guides who give insight into their traditional forest life and culture. The culmination of the hike is the 340 metre long Garama Cave, a lava tube beneath Mount Mgahinga that used to be a hideout for the Batwa and also acted as a council chamber. It is said to have been a royal residence, a food store and a sacred gathering point in the forest.

The Batwa guides explain to guests how, as nomadic hunter-gatherers, they used to live off the forest, collect honey, make herbal medicine, hunt small animals and gather fruit.

What might otherwise be a tedious walk along an uneven trail is brought to life by the excitement derived from the vast knowledge shown by the Batwa guides about their descendants who for decades lived as nomadic hunter-gatherers. Clad in unique attire made of fine animal skins and armed with bows and arrows, the guides eloquently take the visitors through the brief history of the Batwa legacy and how they ended up as huntergatherers while their neighbours became settled cultivators and herdsmen.

At the start of the walk, at the Mhavura trail head, the guides observe the old ritual observed of prostrating themselves by ancient rocks and praying to the forest gods for protection from wild animals, for

a bumper harvest and for being able to keep on track of the forest trails.

The region’s 1,500 Batwa people maintain that their ancestors used to live in harmony with forest animals such as snakes, gorillas and bushbucks, although some creatures were a source of their food.

Dwelling places Batwa guides have a wealth of knowledge about the medicinal values of various trees and shrubs along the track, of the grass-thatched huts with shrines in their back yards, of tree branches where children would shelter from marauding animals as their parents went hunting and fruit gathering, and of how to trace

Batwa guides have a wealth of knowledge about the medicinal values of various trees and shrubs along the track bees to their hives in search of honey. The guides also demonstrate how they used to lay traps to catch animals for meat, to carry out rituals to stave off ghosts and the loss of their loved ones, and to weave hand tools from creeping plants, as well as manipulating hollow bamboo tubes for collecting water, cooking meat and storage.

Many fibres in the forests were used as ropes for carrying animals after hunting as well as belts for the skin dresses worn by men and women. Other plants were ideal for making baskets, bags and mats, explain the guides.

© Great Lakes Film Production

Nomadic life

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In historical Batwa times, when there was a death, the deceased would be buried under the family hut and rituals were performed before the whole family moved away to save themselves from evil spirits. After the burial, the hut above the grave would be destroyed. They would also use a plant called Munanira, believed to stop the spirits. Thereafter, the family would take a few portable articles and migrate to another past of the vast forest.

This rock cave with its various compartments was used as a council chamber, as a palace for the Batwa king and as a hideout for Batwa warriors, who would raid neighbouring communities for food and other items and take shelter in the cave. It was also used as a training ground for young men so that they could defend their people against enemy attack.

Lit by grass torches, the cave also served as a theatre, where the king and the visitors would be entertained with cultural performances, as well as being used as a law-making chamber and for cooking.

The cave is called Garama, which conveys the meaning of lying on one’s back and relaxing after a great meal.

Enterprise As the Batwa people have recently begun to conduct visitors along the trail, the new tourism enterprise has restored their cultural pride, giving them an incentive as local allies in conservation. The Uganda Wildlife Authority and other trail development partners are delighted that this new experience offers an authentic opportunity to complement the other activities in the Mgahinga Gorilla National Park such as gorilla tracking, volcano hiking and walking safaris to see golden monkeys.

The exciting narratives and demonstrations are sure to make visitors feel as if they had walked back into ancient African times, leaving them fascinated and with a deeper appreciation of a culture dating back thousands of years.

Plan your visit to the Batwa Trail in the southeast of Uganda and ask about the new documentary DVD and book to take the stories and traditional songs home with you.

Learn more at www.thebatwatrail.com

support from the Uganda Wildlife Authority, the International Gorilla Conservation Programme (IGCP), the USAID-STAR (Sustainable Tourism in the Albertine Rift) programme, the United Organisation for Batwa Development in Uganda (UOBDU), the Kisoro local government and many others.

Š Great Lakes Film Production

The trail has been made possible by

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Network //

THE FLY540

NETWORK

oVEr 30 DEstiNatioNs throughout East aFrica

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with MorE coMiNg VEry sooN

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SOUTH SUDAN JUBA

LODWAR

UGANDA KITALE KAKAMEGA ENTEBBE

ELDORET

KENYA NANYUKI MERU

KISUMU

NAIROBI MASAI MARA LAMU

MWANZA KILIMANJARO

MALINDI VIPINGO MOMBASA UKUNDA

TANZANIA DAR ES SALAAM

ZANZIBAR

MTWARA

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Feisty and courageous

‘mad’ woman

who refused to be bowed

By Denis Gathanju

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// Wangari Maathaiis

W

angari Maathaiis was a bridge linking the poor village women with whom she planted trees to the high and mighty who governed the corporate world and the political class that sought her counsel. Wherever she went, she was fêted by world leaders for her brilliance, intellect and feisty dedication to humanity.

News of her demise was met with an outpouring sympathy, grief and disbelief across the world as we all mourned the passing of an environmental champion and a defiant crusader for human rights.

Known for her resolve, courage and passion in the defence of human rights and the environment, her story is about how a little-known but tough village girl from rural Kenya went on to move and change the world.

The ‘mad’ woman

In her life, she rallied the world to a common cause. Her powerful words gave the poor communities for whom she fought so passionately a roaring voice that no amount of police brutality could silence. She unified Kenyans against an oppressive and dictatorial government as much as she unified the world against the negative effects of climate change.

She was relentless in her fight for humanity; she was fearless in her efforts on behalf of political prisoners; she poked the eye of a political dictator; she waged

News of her demise hit global headlines; from cable networks and radio stations to social network sites and blogs to village whispers across the world.

I first ‘met’ the late Professor Maathai in the 1990s. I was barely in my teens when the exploits of the ‘mad’ woman caught my attention. I was still at school and had known only one president, who ruled this country with an iron fist. My pals and I would whisper the name of the president for fear of landing ourselves into trouble.

But the indefatigable Wangari Maathai took on the government of the day with more zeal, determination and bravery than any other woman I can think of.

I remember her chants for the release of political prisoners at Uhuru Park. The police would raid them and clobber them senseless for demanding the release of such political prisoners as Koigi Wamwere and Rumba Kinuthia.

Her powerful words gave the poor communities for whom she fought so passionately a roaring voice that no amount of police brutality could silence. a bitter war with political sycophants; and, most of all, she remained unbowed in her quest to protect the environment, no matter the cost. She truly was a fighter.

On the night of 25 September, however, one of Kenya’s finest and most critical thinkers – and arguably one of the most recognised women in the world – lost a natural battle. As she had unified the world in her life so the world was unified by her death.

As if that were not enough trouble, she took on the government of President Moi with equal energy when the then ruling party, the Kenya African National Union (KANU), announced that it would construct a 60-storey building costing US$200 million on one of Nairobi’s greenest patches of land, Uhuru Park.

Her protests were met with a triple dose of political disgust and police brutality that was unleashed upon her and her fellow protesters. She was branded a

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// Wangari Maathaiis

While many people silently supported her cause, few had the courage to speak out against the autocratic government of the day rogue, divorced woman who had nothing serious to do apart from make trouble for everyone. She took her verbal war with the administration to the international media because the local media were too intimidated to cover her fight to save Uhuru Park.

Wangari Maathai lambasted foreign governments for their continued support of a dictatorial government that oppressed its people and was on the way to destroy-

ing one of the greenest spots in the heart of the city. “No one would touch Central Park in New York City,” she protested.

Autocratic While many people silently supported her cause, few had the courage to speak out against the autocratic government of the day. The consequences were too frightening for many to contemplate; police brutality was too much for many to handle; and the war of words with a powerful and mean administration sent shock waves down the spines of many who contemplated taking to the streets to protest against the construction of a new headquarters by a self-serving political party.

The beauty of it all is that Wangari Maathai won the battle to save Uhuru Park. After a protracted war of words with politicians and political sycophants and street fights with the brutal police,

victory went to the woman who had been branded by many of the political class as ‘a mad woman with cockroaches in her head’.

As if that was not enough, the government had plans to destroy part of Karura Forest and sell land to wealthy developers and politically correct individuals to build luxury homes. When Wangari Maathai got wind of this, she led a team of environmental activists, some drawn from the Green Belt Movement – an NGO she had helped set up to campaign for conservation – to protest against the forest excision.

Courageous As expected, her protests were met with brutality. I remember television images showing a wounded but fuming and courageous Wangari Maathai. She had bloodstains on her clothes and she

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showed the head wounds where the police had rained blows and pulled out her hair.

accolades and awards Even though she won yet another battle with the government, Wangari Maathai took her fight to international level. She preached environmental conservation and demonstrated how environmental degradation and global warming were linked to human strife and threats to peace and development the world over.

wanGaRI maaTHaI

a CELEBRaTIon oF LIFE

Wangari Maathai went on to win many accolades and awards, most notably the Nobel Peace Prize in 2004. This marked a critical moment not only in her life but for the entire world – a wake-up call to everyone about the tangible connection between dwindling natural resources and global peace.

It is often said that prophets are never welcome in their own land and this was true of Wangari Maathai. But the girl from Tetu was determined to ensure that everyone played their part in environmental conservation.

Truly, Wangari Maathai was an extraordinary woman; the village girl who changed the world; the woman who dared a brutal government; the woman who hugged a tree and ended up hugging the whole planet.

Wangari Maathai, we celebrate you. Your spirit lives forever and the world is poorer without you. Rest in peace.

1940

Wangari Muta Maathai is born in Nyeri

1964

Degree from Mount St Scholastica College, USA

1966

M.Sc. from University of Pittsburg

1969

Marries Mwangi Maathai

1971

Ph.D. from University of Nairobi

1976

Chair of Department of Veterinary Anatomy at Nairobi University

1979

Wangari and Mwangi divorce

1983

Woman of the Year Award

1984

Right Livelihood Award

1987

Global 500 Roll of Honour Award

1989

Leads protests against plans to build 60-storey complex at Uhuru Park, Nairobi

1994

Order of the Golden Ark Award

1995

International Women’s Hall of Fame

1997

Named among 100 people in the world who have made a difference to the environment

2001

Juliet Hollister Award

2002

Elected to represent Tetu Constituency in the Kenyan Parliament

2003

President Kibaki appoints her Assistant Minister, Ministry of Environment

2004

J. Sterling Morton Award

2004

Nobel Peace Prize for her efforts in conserving forests.

2005

Named by ‘Time’ magazine as one of 100 Most Powerful Women in the World

2005

Named by ‘Time’ as one of 100 Most Influential People in the World

2007

World Citizenship Award

2011

The Nichols-Chancellor’s Medal from Vanderbilt University

2011

On 25 September Wangari loses her battle with ovarian cancer at the Nairobi Hospital.

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OL PEJETA:

THE HOUSE

THAT ADNAN

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By Gary Gimson

AT: INE ONL .com K BOO 540

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FLY540 FLY TO NANYUKI TWICE-WEEKLY (Friday and Sunday)

// Ol Pejeta

“W

ho’s Adnan Khashoggi?” someone asked in our Nairobi office when I mentioned his name.

“You’ve never heard of Adnan Khashoggi?”

I replied in total astonishment.

“No, who is he?” was the response.

Well, for those who don’t know – and this could be a generational thing – Adnan Khashoggi was a Saudi Arabian billionaire ‘Mr Fix-It’ arms dealer and celebrity who was rarely out of the newspapers, often for the wrong reasons, in the 1970s and 1980s. His flamboyant lifestyle as part of the international jet set, his tirelessly complicated private life and his headline-grabbing and often murky business dealings made him a journalists’ dream.

Unfortunately and spectacularly, Khashoggi’s business activities took a nose dive in the early 1990s as a speculative deal in Salt Lake City turned sour and since then we have heard little of him or his equally well-known British-born wife, Soraya. Today he lives in Monte Carlo and the two have long since divorced.

Notoriety So what has all this to do with East Africa? At the height of his notoriety and financial powers, Khashoggi fell in love with Kenya and he has left a legacy that the rest of us can now enjoy. This legacy is Ol Pejeta House, set in the 90,000 acre Ol Pejeta Conservancy, just 30 minutes from Nanyuki.

Having amassed great riches, Khashoggi bought the Ol Pejeta estate from the Delamere family in the 1970s and set about creating his own African idyll, transforming the land from a commercial farm into a private game reserve and building Ol Pejeta House. This tranquil haven – with its own airstrip, naturally – was in vivid contrast with the wild parties he was said to hold at his properties in Marbella and elsewhere.

On and off, Khashoggi lived in the house for nearly 20 years. But after his fall from financial grace, the Lonrho group took over Ol Pejeta and later sold on the property, along with nearby Sweetwaters Tented Camp. Today it is run by Serena Hotels.

pool as Khashoggi must have done as he conceived the next deal from his home in the bush.

Terrace Breakfast is taken on the small terrace and dinner in the architecturally disappointing dining room. Drinks are served in a ‘secret bar’ hidden away to one side of the hall. Equally bizarrely, Khashoggi also built a secret exit to Soraya’s bedroom that allows the occupant to escape through a wardrobe door and onto the landing.

The house looks over splendid and welltended gardens, while beyond is the

Khashoggi bought the Ol Pejeta estate from the Delamere family in the 1970s and set about creating his own African idyll Admirably, and perhaps surprisingly, Serena has resisted the temptation to update the property’s original 1970s style and ambience and Ol Pejeta remains, in essence, a monument to the Saudi billionaire.

So what to expect from a visit to this iconic property? There are only six rooms: Khashoggi’s vast bedroom, with Soraya’s only slightly less opulent quarters above; a cosy double and a twin across the hall; and, set apart, a two-room guest cottage sharing a common lounge. Guests who book the master bedroom can sleep in the same room with the same furnishings and the same view across a private

property’s own waterhole, which attracts wildlife each evening, to the delight of guests.

The conversancy itself is especially rich in game. In addition to the Big Five, it contains both black and white rhino as well as a chimpanzee sanctuary. Not many parks in Kenya can match this variety, including all three big cats – lion, leopard and cheetah.

I am sure that, having spent so much effort and money creating it, Adnan Khashoggi must be pleased that, under Serena’s management, the house is in good hands and visitors still take pleasure in coming to stay at Ol Pejeta.

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FLY540 VISA

Information //

FLY540

ORMATIO F N IN

Travel information for East Africa South Sudan visas Visa information Most nationals require visas to enter East Africa. Citizens from the five East African states require no visas while those from the Common Market of East and Southern Africa (COMESA) member states have relaxed entry requirements into East Africa.

However, East African member states have their own visa requirements for various nationals.

Any visitor going to South Sudan through Khartoum requires a valid visa. Visas are issued through the South Sudan Embassy.

The Republic of South Sudan has missions in Kenya, Egypt, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Uganda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Zimbabwe, Nigeria, South Africa, Australia, Norway, Belgium, the UK, Germany, France, Turkey, Libya, China, India, Italy, Canada and the USA. Immigration regulations stipulate that anyone going to South Sudan and wishing to travel outside of Khartoum needs a travel permit from the Government of South Sudan.

Those travelling to South Sudan from Kenya, should visit the South Sudan Embassy in Kenya.

Tanzanian visas All foreigners from non-Commonwealth countries are required to have a valid visa unless their countries have agreements with Tanzania under which the visa requirement is waived.

Exemptions: Citizens of Commonwealth countries are not required to obtain visas unless they are citizens of the United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, South Africa, New Zealand or Australia.

Visa-issuing Stations and Authorities

Requirements: • All applicants to launch their visas in person • Passport must be valid for at least six month and presented on submission of application • Two recent colour passport-size photos • Yellow fever vaccination card • Letter of invitation and intent Standard Visa fees payable by balance transfer to: • Government of South Sudan Special Permit Account • Bank: Kenya Commercial Bank; Sarit Centre Branch • A/C No. 402004247 Fees: • Multiple entry: $250 (six months)/$400 (one year) • Single entry for countries with common boarder with South Sudan: $50 • Single entry for other African countries: $100 • Single entry for European and Amercian citizens: $100 Processing period: Two working days

Tanzanian visas are issued by the following: • The office of the Director of Immigration Services, Dar es Salaam, and the office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar.

• Entry points to the United Republic of Tanzania: principally Namanga, Tunduma, Sirari, Horohoro, Kigoma Port, Dar es Salaam International Airport, Kilimanjaro International Airport, Zanzibar Harbour and Zanzibar Airport.

• Any other gazetted entry point.

• From Tanzania High Commissions or embassies abroad. For more information on Tanzanian diplomatic missions visit: www.tanzania.go.tz/tanzaniaembassiesabroad.htm

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Ugandan visas The easiest way of getting a visa to Uganda is by purchasing it at the entry point, Entebbe Airport or any border station. This is very possible for tourists coming into Uganda. All you need to do is pay US$50, fill in the application form with passport dates and information. The visa issued is valid for 90 days.

You can also get a visa by applying online if you a citizen of the following countries, USA, UK, South Africa, Russia, Japan, Italy, India, Germany, France, Denmark, China, Canada, and Belgium. All you need to do is to download the application from the embassy website of your country of origin.

Kenyan visas Visas are required for most nationals and cost US$50. A visa can be obtained on entry, however we recommended one be obtained before arrival to avoid airport lengthy queues. Visa Application Forms are available online.

A visa is required by all visitors travelling to Kenya with the exception of those holding a re-entry pass to Kenya and citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay.

Note that the reciprocal visa abolition agreements with Germany, Italy, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Spain, and Republic of Ireland no longer apply and nationals of these countries now require a Visa.

KENYA VISA REQUIREMENTS • Valid passport with suffi cient number of unused pages for endorsements abroad. Passport must be signed and valid for at least six months.

• A self-addressed stamped envelope for express mail, courier, registered mail, etc., if the visa is urgently required. Metered stamps are not acceptable.

• Home and work telephone numbers.

Please fill out the form correctly and enclose the photographs and payment to avoid delay and disappointment.

Standard Visa fees payable by cash to the Embassy of Kenya.

ViSa FEES CHaRGES:

Multiple entry: $100 Single entry: $50 Transit Visa: $20 1. Please note that all children below 16 yrs are not charged visa fees 2. The reduced visa fees were effected on 1st march 2009, as directive from ministry of tourism on attracting more tourists in to the country.

• Visa application form duly completed and signed by the applicant.

3. Passengers can pay in US dollar, British pounds, Euro or Swiss franc.

• Two recent passport size photographs attached to the application form.

For more information and to download a Kenya visa application form visit: http://www.immigration.go.ke/index.php

CINATION C I A

Vaccination requirements for international travellers

ORMATION NF

Health

FLY54 0V

• Valid round trip ticket or a letter from your travel agent certifying that the applicant holds prepaid arrangements.

• No cholera vaccination certifi cates are required of travellers coming from all over the world.

• Only valid yellow fever vaccination certifi cates are required of all travellers over one year old, arriving from yellow fever infected countries mainly in central and West Africa, South and Central America South East Asia, India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh.

• Vaccination for international travellers are obtainable from all international air and sea ports, city and major municipal councils NB: Make sure you get your yellow fever shot in good time since the yellow fever certificate is valid for travel use 10 days after vaccination.

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Information //

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TRAVEL IN 0 F 54

By bus Kenya has a network of long-distance bus services on which speed is limited to 80 kph. Within Nairobi, buses are run by private companies such as Citi Hoppa, whose green-and-yellow buses offer cheap transport (usually about US$0.66) and provide regular services between the city centre and the suburbs. With seating for 20 to 35 passengers (no standing passengers allowed by law), they are a cleaner and less hectic mode of transport than matatus, but they serve many of the same routes.

By 4x4 and hire car You can hire a 4x4 and drive through Kenya, although you need to be proficient at handling such a vehicle.

Most international rental agencies have offices in Nairobi and Mombasa. They offer affordable and reliable cars with a full back-up network. Visitors can also rent cheaper cars from local distributors who are mostly reliable. In addition, there are car rental agencies in Kampala and Dar es Salaam.

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By train The Kenya-Uganda railway starts in Mombasa and goes via Nairobi to Kampala, Uganda. This train service is the famous ‘Lunatic Express’ that featured in the Michael Douglas film ‘The Ghost and the Darkness’.

MATION OR

FLY

Getting Around in East Africa

By matatu

Matatus offer a cheap and quick means of transport in all the major towns and many rural areas. The name matatu hails from the Kiswahili word for the number three – tatu – because some time ago the standard fare was three 10 cent coins.

Matatus have a yellow strip running around the vehicle with the route number on display

In Tanzania, public minibuses are known as daladala.

Unlike in Nairobi, the minibuses in Dar es Salaam are packed and normally exceed their carrying capacity, especially in the morning and afternoon rush hours.

The daladala have the fares displayed on their sides, however, making it easier for visitors to the city to avoid being overcharged.

Also popular in Dar es Salaam are three-wheel motorcycles known as bajaji. In Kenya, they are known as tuk tuks and are popular in the resort cities of Mombasa and Malindi.

In Kampala, the motorcycle taxis, known as boda boda, are the most popular mode of transport. They are not only cheap, but handy when you want to beat the heavy traffic in Kampala during the rush hour.

Hand luggage The following may be carried in your hand luggage only if they are stored in containers up to 100 ml in size and placed in a transparent resealable plastic bag and thereafter screened separately from other items carried in the hand luggage. The capacity of the transparent plastic bag must not be greater than 1 litre.

Liquids, gels and aerosols include: • Water and other drinks • Syrups • Creams, lotions and oils • Perfumes and sprays • Gels including hair and shower gels • Pastes including Vaseline and eye shadow

GGAGE IN LU F

• Pressurised containers such as shaving foam and deodorants

MATION OR

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Matatus are privately run minibuses, typically for 14 or 25 passengers and operating over short and medium distances. Previously, the matatus were usually packed to well over capacity – with up to 25 people in a 14-seater vehicle – but in recent years there has been more government regulation and policing of matatus, especially in the larger cities, and now most of them have seatbelts and care is taken not to exceed the vehicle’s stated capacity.

• Other items with similar consistency.

The following items are allowed in hand luggage: • Medicine needed during the flight • Baby food needed during the flight.

You may buy any liquids beyond the security check points including duty free or in-flight items. Items purchased must be packed in security tamper evident bags and accompanied by proof of purchase when presenting them at the security checkpoint.

NOTE: Kenya Airports Authority implements all ICAO standards and recommended practices on liquids, aerosols and gels.

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s n o i t c a r att la a p m a K d n u ro a d n in a

By Roselyne Omondi-Ogao

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// Day Trips

T

he pace of life slows down the minute you cross the border into Uganda, which makes this country – with so many attractions only an hour or less from the capital, Kampala – an ideal place for a family holiday. Here are seven locations guaranteed to awe you:

1 Speke Resort Munyonyo A trip to Speke Resort Munyonyo is a ‘must’ for all lovers of water sports. You can hire a motor boat at the resort’s marine centre, Speke Marina, and ride to Ggaba Beach, about 10 minutes away, or all the way to Bulago Island, about 20 km from Kampala.

If adrenalin rushes are not for you, why not go for a relaxing swim in the Olympic-sized outdoor pool. Take time out to read your favourite novel, enjoy a steam bath or sauna.

catch into the waiting hands of scores of fishmongers who auction it to eager buyers.

Later, you could walk on the beach or take a short boat trip on the lake to admire the view.

A trip to Speke Resort Munyonyo is a ‘must’ for all lovers of water sports You could also go riding at the resort’s equestrian centre, or walk across the well manicured lawns, enjoying the sounds of birdsong and the miniature waterfall.

2 Bulago Island This privately owned luxury island can be reached by motor boat, hired from Speke Marina, or by road. Boat rides cost about UGX 130,000 for a round trip. Once there you can go fishing, windsurfing or hiking – or observe some of the island’s 300-plus species of fascinating birdlife.

Spend a night in one of the island’s tastefully furnished family villas. Here, the tranquil atmosphere, with no mosquitoes, will leave you feeling relaxed.

3 Ggaba Beach This is one of the busiest fish landing sites in Kampala. Visit the beach early in the day to watch fishermen offloading their Gorilla sculpture, Garden City

There are many food vendors offering a huge variety of local dishes including (naturally) fresh fish as well as cassava, plantain and matooke, a local delicacy made of steamed bananas.

4 Jinja Once a thriving industrial town, Jinja is now a shadow of its vibrant past. Its location on the River Nile makes up for lost glories, however, and no visit here is complete without a trip to the source of the Nile and to Bujagali Falls.

The source of the Nile is marked by the Rippon Falls. You can hire a boat for about UGX 40,000 and disembark five minutes later on a tiny rocky island.

Here, you can see the ripples at the point where Lake Victoria ends and the Nile begins to flow.

Bujagali, at the opposite end of the town, is the site of amazing waterfalls

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Rita, 9, at the end of a horse-riding session at Speke Resort

// Day Trips

and oriental cuisine, drink a cup of freshly brewed Ugandan coffee at Café Pap, watch a blockbuster movie or leaf through some of the latest best-sellers at the country’s top bookstore, Aristoc. Children can spend time in the play centre, go bowling or ice-skating at Alleygators – very popular with teenagers – or jump on a trampoline at the Spur. Other attractions in the mall include the 7 Hills Revolving Restaurant.

Why not complete the day with a drive around the nearby Makerere University, where Kenya’s president, Mwai Kibaki, was a student. Alternatively, visit Ndere Cultural Centre for a lively show of cultural dances from across Uganda and a taste of Ugandan food. Highlight of the evening is the stunt-filled Acholi dance.

that will reward your walk down some steep slopes. You may even spot the odd fellow riding the fast-moving water on a tiny yellow jerrycan. Hire a quad bike and have a blast along the rough roads of the area. Or head to Adrift for a hair-raising bungee jump.

Drop in at Jinja Nile Resort, one of the best hotels in Jinja. The hotel opens its doors to non-residents on Christmas Day, offering a memorable champagne breakfast and Christmas lunch plus live entertainment from local bands and dance troupes such as Uganda’s famous Ndere Troupe.

A visit to Gately Inn, set in a quiet garden and famous for its chocolate cake and other sweet dishes, could be the perfect way to end your day.

Visit nearby Entebbe Botanical Gardens to see some of Uganda’s finest butterfly species and natural floral displays.

6 Garden City Many new malls are being built in the city centre, but none has more to offer than Kampala’s hippest shopping complex, Garden City. Here, you can visit boutiques and craft shops, enjoy a variety of local

7 Mabira Forest A visit to Mabira, Uganda’s largest tropical rain forest, gives you a chance to relax in a natural environment and observe the bush babies, monkeys, native birds and reptiles. You can camp, bike, swim or walk in the forest. If you are adventurous you can order meals on the stick from food vendors on the Kampala-Jinja Road.

Better still, enjoy home-made delicacies at Mabira Rain Forest Lodge.

Children can spend time in the play centre, go bowling or ice-skating at Alleygators – popular with teenagers

5 Entebbe Wildlife Centre Compensate for your inability to go on safari to one of Uganda’s top national parks, Queen Elizabeth or Murchison Falls, with a trip to Entebbe Wildlife Centre, only 15 minutes from Entebbe.

Here, on a two-hour trail, you can spot a great variety of animals and birds including lions, rhinos, chimpanzees and pythons as well as crested cranes and ostriches.

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THE FLY540

AIRCRAFT FLEET

Canadair CL-600-2B19 Regional Jet

ATR 42-320

Type: Twin-engine regional jet

Type: Twin-turboprop, short-haul regional airliner

Number in service: Three

Number in service: Two

Capacity per aircraft: 50 passengers

Capacity per aircraft: 47 passengers

Hawker Beechcraft Airliner B1900C Type: Twin-engine turboprop aeroplane Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 19 passengers

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// Fleet

Bombardier Dash 8 102 Series Type: Twin-engined, medium range, turboprop airliner Number in service: Three Capacity per aircraft: 37 passengers

Cessna Caravan C208 Type: Single turboprop engine, fixed-gear short-haul regional airliner Number in service: One

Fokker F27 Type: Turboprop cargo airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 1336 x 210 x 190 cargo hold

Capacity per aircraft: 10 passengers

ATR 72-500 Type: Twin-engine turboprop short-haul regional airliner Number in service: Two

Fokker F28 Type: Short range jet airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 67 passengers

Capacity per aircraft: 78 passengers

208B Grand Caravan Type: Stretched version of the basic Caravan.

Single turboprop engine, fixed-gear short-haul regional airliner

DC-9 Type: Twin-engine, single-aisle jet airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 80 passengers

Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 12 passengers

Africa’s low cost airline

45

’ s KidER N R O C

cOLOUR ME IN...

n you make using all How many words ca s in the word or some of the letter

? ” A I D E P O L C Y C N “E

use s lon g. An d you can ’t at lea st TH REE let ter ice tw s The wo rds hav e to be let ter app ear sam e wo rd, un les s the the let ter tw ice in the the wo rd ‘m ott o’ ke ma ’t exa mp le, you can in the wo rd. So, for l bu t you can ma ke the on e T in ast ron om ica bec aus e the re is on ly dy, ste ady, go ! e the re are tw o Os . Rea wo rd ‘m oo n’ bec aus

JOke time!

et if you cross

ug Q: What do yoe and a parrot? a centiped

a lk ie ! a: A w a lk ie -t s go

w Q: Where doyco ? on holida

! a: M o o Yo rk u call a

Q: What do youll? sleeping b

r! a: A b u lld o ze

// Kids’ corner in association with

C H A T S A P Y

&

K A N A N A B L L M P O S T W L X B Y R B P C E M U D A E

I

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A R G N H Z

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SpOt Thnece differe

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spot them?

E G J G K Z D L R E M E N A O P C R Q R C E S T E W Z O P C P D C Z V O N I

I

O N

A M S A R G P

WORDSEARCH

Can you find the words listed below in the letter grid above?

BANANA - HAMBURGER - ICECREAM JELLY - RICE - PIZZA - ORANGE PASTA - AVOCADO - ONION

Our clubs – Adventurers for children aged four to 12 and Young Rangers for 13 to 17-year-olds – are free at Mara Intrepids, Samburu Intrepids, Great Rift Valley Lodge & Golf Resort, Voyagers Beach Resort and Voyagers Ziwani Tsavo.

Learn more at www.heritage-eastafrica.com/kids-teens

RiddLe mE ThIS...

I run but I never walk. I have a mouth but I never talk.

I have a bed but I never lie.

What am I?

Riddle Answer: A river

Heritage Hotels believes in the future of our youngsters. That is why we have highly trained and dedicated naturalists to educate and entertain your children while on safari. There is always something new for the youngsters to learn or explore at the Heritage camp or lodge on your African safari.

Africa’s low cost airline

47

Contact us //

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Contact information FIVE FORTY AFRICA - HEAD OFFICE Riverside Green Suites, Palm Suite Riverside Drive PO Box 10293-00100 Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/5 Fax/Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2396 Sales: Tel: +254 (0)737 540 540 Email: info@ямВ y540.com

FIVE FORTY CALL CENTRE ABC Place, off Waiyaki Way Tel: +254 (0)20 445 3252/6 Cell: +254 (0)722 540 540; (0)733 540 540 Fax: +254 (0)20 445 3257

LAICO REGENCY - 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Mezz. floor, Shopping Arcade Tel: +254 (0)20 224 3211/3/4 Cell: +254 727 540 540; (0)737 540 540 Fax: +254 (0)20 224 3219

JOMO KENYATTA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT - 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Unit 3 (Domestic Departures) Tel: +254 (0)20 827 523 Tel: +254 20 827 366 Cell: +254 727 532 273 Unit 1 (International Departures) Tel: +254 (0)20 827 521

MOMBASA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Ground Floor, Mombasa Trade Centre Nkrumah Road Tel: +254 (0)41 231 9078/9 Mob: +254 (0)728 540 540; (0)710 540 540 Moi International Airport, Mombasa Tel: +254 (0)41 343 4821 Tel: +254 (0)32 540 540; (0)722 555 730

48

www.fly540.com

540 TANZANIA DAR ES SALAAM 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Plot no. 767/39, Samora Avenue Tel: +255 (0)22 212 5912/3 Sales: Tel: +255 752 540 540; (0)788 540 540 Cell: +255 754 292 675; (0)784 292 675

ARUSHA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Blue Plaza Building, Indian Street Tel: +255 (0)27 254 5211 Tel: +255 (0)784 410 233

KILIMANJARO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Tel:+255 (0)756 540 540 Tel: +255 (0)27 255 4282

ZANZIBAR 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Cine Afrique Building, Stone Town Tel: +255 (0)24 223 5110 Tel: +255 (0)762 540 540

UGANDA 540 (U) LTD KAMPALA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE 1st Floor, Oasis Mall Tel: +256 (0)414 346 915/999 Tel: +256 (0)312 540 540 Sales: Tel: +256 (0)712 540 540; (0)776 540 540

ENTEBBE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Tel: +256 (0)314 540 540 Tel: +256 (0)315 540 540 Sales: Tel: +256 (0)713 540 540

UKUNDA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Barclays Centre, Diani Road Tel: +254 (0)20 354 6532 Tel: +254 (0)726 453 246

LAMU - NORTH COAST TRAVEL SERVICE Tel: +254 (0)42 213 0312 Tel: +254 (0)42 463 2054 Tel: +254 (0)725 942 444 Email: nctslamu@swiftmalindi.com Email: nctsmalindi@swiftmalindi.com

KITALE TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Terminal Building, Kitale Airstrip Tel: +254 (0)770 639 429 Tel: +254 (0)724 457 374 Tel: +254 (0)735 540 547

ELDORET 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Tel: +254 (0)53 203 3570/80

ELDORET INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 540 Ticketing & Reservations Offi ce Tel: +254 (0)53 203 0814 Tel: +254 (0)53 206 3823 ext 658

KAKAMEGA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Holden Mall - above Nakumatt Supermarket Tel: +254 (0)734 540 550 Tel: +254 (0)711 908 330

540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS WILSON AIRPORT : 540 SAFARI CIRCUIT SALES Ground Floor, Langata House Tel: +254 (0)20 254 0206 Tel: +254 (0)729 540 540 Tel: +254 (0)735 540 540