docks that stay sturdy

by sam merriam author of building your own dock and owner of great northern docks,inc.

Mooring boats at the shore is likely the first purpose that comes to mind when we think of a dock. For many of us, however, the dock is more like an extension of our living space. This is especially true where water frontage, in its natural form, is not conducive to hosting recreation at the shore, such as a steep approach that’s riddled with boulders. Whether your dock is only used for tying up or it is the linchpin to all your lakefront leisure, my guess is that you’ve categorized it as a vital accessory. Therefore, dock sturdiness and stability are paramount to peace of mind and full enjoyment.

When lake docks, long ago, were made to be permanent with materials like concrete, crib, and rock, they seemed immovable by any force, and instilled complete confidence in the minds of all who relied on them. Now that environmental codes require new docks to be made temporary for seasonal usage, most often a much lighter weight option is sought. This condition challenges all of us who want it both ways, easily portable, but with the sensation of permanent.

For pre-manufactured stationary docks that stand on legs, it helps to start with a quality made product. It is difficult to correct a problem that is the result of a low budget, inferior design. The dock should be an improvement to your lakefront home and seen as an investment in your family’s leisure time.

Instability in a stationary dock is the result of one, or a combination of causes, e.g. broken or loose-fitting parts, or legs not firmly seated into the lakebed. When shopping among dock options, pay attention to the type of leg that fits with each brand, as it can make real differences to the end result. For example, the greater the girth and wall thickness, the more rigid it will be. If the dock takes legs made of round pipe, aluminum will be lighter, but the steel pipe is stronger and endures being driven into the lakebed and offers tremendous stability for its occupants and mooring strength for boats.

The greatest cause of instability is often a lack of bracing or bracing that is in disrepair. In shallow waters under three feet deep, the dock is much lower to the lakebed or the ground, so added bracing is often not needed. In deeper areas, added bracing should be tightly connected to every leg. Any brace that is not firmly fastened will barely count as a brace. The reliable method of bracing is a crisscross or “transverse” between adjacent legs. If the dock’s floor plan has a right angle turn to make an L or T shape, the addition of corner braces or “longitudinal” should be applied. Braces should be made of a rigid material that does not flex, and their length should be proportionate with the height of the leg they are bracing.

Docks that have legs driven into the lakebed usually provide the best mooring capacity, especially for larger or heavier powered boats. Some pre-manufactured docks set on metal feet whereby the legs are not meant to be driven into the lakebed. This is usually suitable for smaller boats in waters sheltered from wind. Otherwise, a larger boat alongside a dock that is on feet may be secured in a temporary boat lift system, thus using the dock only for access to the boat, not for mooring purposes.

Shock absorption lines will prevent jarring while the boat tugs on the dock. These are ropes with strands woven around a stretchable rubber cord, available at most marine supply stores. Be careful not to tie up too snug with the dock. The line’s length between the boat and dock should be greater than the maximum wave height that is expected to pass by. These measures will prevent the loosening of joints, fasteners and ultimately the ricketiness of an unstable dock.

If you have a choice, keep the boat on the leeward side from the predominant wind direction. This will prevent the boat, pushed by the wind and waves, from continually pounding into the dock. The boat will ride even better with the dock if the bow is kept in a windward direction. This, of course, is only possible if there is enough depth near the shore for the boat’s stern.

Finally, when it comes to sturdiness, always remove a temporary dock from the lake before winter ice sets in, even on smaller ponds, coves and shallows that drain dry. Although docks that have not been removed may appear unscathed after spring thaw, mainly because the exposure to expanding ice is less than in larger water bodies, damage from ice expansion on the legs, welds and frame accumulates in less noticeable, smaller increments, winter by winter. Removing your dock before each winter removes one more cause for unwanted instability. If you are unsatisfied with the stability of your dock or have doubts about the performance of a new dock, keep in mind, the challenge to achieve sturdiness and stability in light-weight temporary docks is not uncharted. If you start with a quality engineered product that can be maintained with care and the simple tips I’ve shared with you here, you will experience the enduring enjoyment a sturdy dock provides. R