Benjamin Islands, ON

BY SANDI Laucher Laucher BUTTON BUTTON

When July 12 dawned, the wind laid down briefl y — or so my husband, RJ, and I thought — for our passage in our Sea Ray, Resolution, from Charlevoix, Michigan, to Grays Reef, our turning point and entry into the wild and beautiful North.

The North Channel has always been touted as a wonderful boating destination by power and sail boaters alike. The fresh, blue, crystalline waters of Lake Michigan, then Lake Huron, wields a magnetic pull stronger than any saline tide to those who seek pristine scenery, quaint, welcoming Canadian harbor towns and a respite from the cacophony of too much civilization.

The first leg

Our window of opportunity in an uncertain weather forecast bid us to quickly load the boat, pulling out of our Charlevoix harbor home a few minutes before 8 a.m. A quick call to the local fi shermen of Ward Brothers Marine told us the waves were manageable but building, so off we went. Soon after the channel, we encountered 3– to 4-foot waves that later built to 4 to 6 feet, but a fair sky; the wind out of the SSW blew kindly off our port beam as we passed Good Hart and Cross Village. Soon the lighthouse at Grays Reef was visible, luring us on despite a little queasiness from the fi rst mate.

“Turn back?” offered my beloved captain.

With an air of safe assurance, we chose to venture on, remembering the charm of the Canadian waters. I was not about to let a little seasickness spoil our adventure. At the turn near the abandoned lighthouse, the waves were on our stern, and soon the majestic Mackinac Bridge glistened over our bow: The gateway to Canada. The challenge of the fi rst leg of our journey was worthwhile.

Gore Bay, an authentic harbor town

Our fi rst stopping point was Gore Bay, located between Drummond Island and Little Current on Manitoulin Island. A threatening gray sky ushered us into this protective harbor. Neat, new fl oating docks and friendly assistance from Austin and other local students working the marina for the summer welcomed us into the harbor.

The town of Gore Bay is basically one short street with a few local restaurants, a hardware store, a gift shop, a bakery and a post offi ce — all that’s needed, really. Not a franchise or big box within sight to spoil this authentic harbor town.

After breakfast on the boat, we rented bikes and pedaled to the top of the road, stopping at a few points along the way. The view from the crest of the hill yields a fi ne assessment of the water depths — varying hues of turquoise through navy blue, with shoals and passages to the town beyond clearly visible. A steady cool rain fell most of the night with more of the same forecast for the next day or so.

Fast current in Little Current

Plans were reconfi gured for the Benjamins until another day. Our new destination: Little Current, the largest town on Manitoulin Island. A rough but passable two hours away, we headed northeast through the main passage, past the Benjamins, turning toward Little Current. A driving, cold rain met us at the wall, but so did Brian and his employees at Little Current Marina. They were undeterred by the rain and eager to help us achieve a tricky wall tie up with a fast current to negotiate.

Saturday night in Little Current was quiet with a misty rain and a cool breeze most of the night. A warm dinner and an early night gave way to a sunny, blue sky on Sunday — our day of departure.

Worth the journey to the Benjamins

A no-rush breakfast, re-supply of groceries and water, and we set off for the Benjamin Islands. If ever there was a picture-perfect day, it had to look precisely like that Sunday. Within sight of land the entire way, we passed rocky vestiges of the glacier, trees and birds and only an occasional waterfront cottage. The hills in the distance of Manitoulin Island were green farmland or woods, so thick only glimpses of land peeked through the pines and hardwoods. What must this look like in the dead of a northern winter, I wondered? Deep fi ssures in solid rock told a story of very hard freezes, and bent over pines spoke of crushing winds. But today was a holiday in the Benjamins: Small groups of watercraft rafted together with friends and boats. Dinghies of all sorts held people of all ages exploring the coves and rocks.

We easily found a ring on “our rock” on which to tie off with fenders, and we rafted our boat with friends Bob and Penny Parmelee. This cove — unnamed, as far as we know — was gently populated with boaters, all of whom seemed to respect each other’s space and desire for quiet in the evenings. No wild parties or noisy generators marred this clear, starry night. Far from lighted areas, the stars consumed the night sky with an uncommon brilliance.

If you are looking for an unspoiled boating getaway, can navigate around rocks and can live without electricity and amenities for a few days, simplify your boating and drink in the refreshing experience of the Benjamin Islands. Plan your escape now. The Michigan promise of summers with blue skies and crystalline water awaits your own adventure, and this cruise will not disappoint. ★