Arenenberg

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ARENENBERG Germany/Austria € 7 Switzerland CHF 8

The most beautiful castle on Lake Constance

Content ARENENBERG A magical place for over 600 years ................... 2 VANISHED BEAUTY Precious fabrics, valuable carpets and significant buildings .................................. 8 THE CASTLE From a noble patrician residence to a museum ... 12 THE GARDENS Horticulture at Arenenberg ........................... 30 A LIVING LEGACY A unique constellation .................................... 42 POETIC RECOLLECTIONS Selected visitors remember ............................. 52

Imprint “Arenenberg” is a publication of Labhard Medien GmbH. All rights reserved.

“Arenenberg” is published in cooperation with Napoleon Museum Thurgau, Arenenberg Castle and Park and Arenenberg Educational and Consulting Centre ISBN: 978-3-944741-28-4 Labhard Medien GmbH Max-Stromeyer-Strasse 116 D-78467 Constance/Germany Phone: +49 7531 9071-0 Fax: +49 7531 9071-31 www.labhard.de Managing Directors: Thomas Willauer, Gabriele Schindler Authors: Dominik Gügel M.A., Director of Napoleon Museum Translator: Claire Gordon-Kühl Photos: All photos by the Napoleon Museum Thurgau, Arenenberg Castle and Park / Helmut Scham Konstanz, Jochen Eichler, Dominik Gügel, Achim Mende, Christina Egli, Stadtarchiv Konstanz Project manager: Katharina Schlude M.A. Graphic design: Helga Stützenberger, Markdorf Printed by: Ferdinand Berger & Söhne GmbH, Horn, Austria Distribution: Labhard Medien GmbH

Welcome to Arenenberg!

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ho can resist the magic of Arenenberg Castle? Even back in the Middle Ages, powerful patrician families made their home on “Narrenberg”, or “Fool’s Hill”, as it was then known, overlooking Lake Constance. Centuries later, in 1816, Queen Hortense, step-daughter and sister-in-law of Napoleon I, chose Arenenberg as her place of exile. This is where she raised her son, Louis Napoleon, who later became Emperor of France after several failed attempts. His playground was a large, landscaped park with secret pathways and grottos and of course the seemingly infinite expanse of the lake! In furnishing the castle, Hortense compensated for having to live in exile by introducing a style and interior design that followed the trends of Parisian society. She created a home away from home, which is still considered the “most beautiful castle on Lake Constance”.

ARENENBERG A magical place for over 600 years

Archaeological findings suggest that this unique promontory on the Lower Lake was appreciated for its beauty as early as Roman times. But exactly what kind of settlement stood here during Late Antiquity remains lost in the mists of time. Was it a country house? A small sanctuary? We do not know. The common name given to Arenenberg in the Middle Ages was “Narrenberg”, indicating that traces from Late Antiquity must have been evident here for a long time, since the word “Narr” was used in those days to describe things that were very old and of inexplicable origin.

4 A R E N E N B E R G | The History

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renenberg has captured people’s imaginations ever since the early 15th century at least. It was owned by wealthy, powerful families from Thurgau and Constance, who amassed their fortune through long-distance trade and had connections all over the known world. They met here to celebrate and enjoy the stunning scenery. Friends and patrons came to visit, most likely including royalty, and many a diplomatic issue was discussed here in the countryside. In addition to its representative and recreational function, an estate of this size was naturally also an economic factor, with arable land, fishing, livestock breeding, orchards, vegetable gardens and, above all, vineyards. Wine from Arenenberg was known for its high quality as early as the Middle Ages. We can only guess at how the estate might have looked in those days. It probably comprised at least one stone house with several half-timbered buildings, including one with a wine press. A very special feature was a small garden used solely for recreational purposes, something highly unusual for those days. It was truly a magical place!

Times changed, however, and following bloody wars of conquest, affluent Thurgau was ravaged and became a subject territory. Arenenberg was preserved as a vineyard, but lost all other functions. Carthusian monks from Buxheim, near Memmingen in Bavaria, acquired the estate and profitably farmed the vineyards. They probably added a small monastery to the existing buildings, possibly where the hermitage now stands in the landscaped park.

Views of the seemingly infinite expanse of the lake have captivated visitors for more than 1000 years (previous page).

Arenenberg (Aharenberg) in an oil painting from Reichenau Cathedral. Below it is a small chapel with an outbuilding, both of which have disappeared today.

The History | A R E N E N B E R G 5

In the course of the Reformation, the monks sold the estate and it passed into secular hands once more. This time the owners came primarily from Constance and St. Gallen, and only later from Thurgau. In the late 16th century, a Renaissance pleasure palace was built that corresponded in style to the contemporary tastes and romantic perceptions of the Middle Ages.

Modelled on Italian architecture, it was a work of art, comprising not only a castle with turrets and battlements, but also a park with terraces, grottos and water features. Though certainly not as elaborate and lavish as a Tuscan residence, mainly due to a lack of funds and skilled craftsmen, it still must have been wonderful for the conditions north of the Alps!

Circumstances changed again, and the towns and countryside around Lake Constance were pushed to the sidelines of history.

Lacking sufficient means, the local population struggled to maintain the rich heritage passed down by their ancestors. The buildings fell into disrepair and the gardens became overgrown, also at “Narrenberg”, which was now increasingly referred to as “Arenenberg”. The brief period of prosperity during the Baroque era may have produced magnificent

churches and monasteries, but it had little impact on the conditions on the Lower Lake. The people here lived in and with their past, thus preserving it. Befitting their social status, the owners lived in a town house in Constance and came to Arenenberg for relaxation. Their interests centred on the gardens, wine-growing and agriculture. Surrounded by blossoming meadows and fertile fields, and in close proximity to the lake, life seemed happy here in the countryside, far away from the relatively impoverished, foul-smelling town.

Even in the early 19th century, visitors described this life, and spoke enthusiastically of the beauty of the landscape. Then, completely unexpectedly, Arenenberg was catapulted back to the centre of world history. A future French emperor, his mother and family fell in love with Arenenberg, leaving their mark on it right up to the present day. They carefully modernised the property, transforming it into a country estate with Parisian charm, complete with a landscaped park that revealed traces of its rich past. Countless visitors came to Arenenberg during this time; many wrote down their memories, reminiscing nostalgically about their stay on Lake Constance.

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6 A R E N E N B E R G | The History

2 1 Arenenberg and wine have been linked for hundreds of years.

2 For visitors, the museum, shop and bistro form a single entity together with the park with its many hydrangeas, Queen Hortense's favourite flower!

ARENE NBE RG TODAY Today, Arenenberg still captivates people’s imaginations as a tourist attraction, museum, research centre and an educational and consulting centre. In 1906, the last French empress donated the property to the Canton of Thurgau. It was converted into a museum and an agricultural college was added. Both the museum and college represent Arenenberg today, together with its various gardens. Their employees and instructors enjoy

imparting their passion for this place and their knowledge of its history to visitors and students. All are encouraged to experience the magic of the castle estate and explore its surroundings in the museum, the college gardens with plant nursery, the vineyards and specialty gardens with different plant varieties, the landscaped English gardens and mediaeval patrician garden.

The History | A R E N E N B E R G 7

Vanished Beauty

Precious fabrics, valuable carpets and significant buildings

8 A R E N E N B E R G | Vanished Beauty

1 Herosé, a company in Constance, produced farbics in remembrance of Queen Hortense.

2 The factory was situated west of the town in Petershausen, directly on the banks of the Rhine.

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ver the last 600 years, Arenenberg has undergone many changes, especially during the period after 1906. While the facade and interiors of the present-day Napoleon Museum have only been modified slightly, the Canton of Thurgau carried out major conversions and reconstructions on the remaining estate buildings (Dépendance and guest house). These measures were of course indispensable for their use as a college and consulting centre. The changes mainly concerned the collections and fixtures. Many items were sold or went to other museums. Fortunately, one particular treasure has been preserved in the Musée de l’Impression sur Etoffes in Mulhouse, Alsace. It is a fragment of what was known as the “Hortensia” collection, which were fabrics manufactured from designs by Queen Hortense. The archives at Arenenberg are filled with precious reminders of past splendour. From time to time, they are presented to the public as part of special exhibitions.

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Lost Forever

At Arenenberg itself, the loss of the court theatre is probably most regrettable. Musicians such as Franz Liszt, writers such as Alexandre Dumas, and architects such as Karl Friedrich Schinkel experienced it. The theatre was situated in the east wing of the complex, which was later demolished and then rebuilt. Constructed shortly after 1817, it was entered through a grand portico supported on columns. Inside was an auditorium with carved chairs. As far as we know, the stage itself was semi-circular with painted backdrops. Amazingly, not only the seats themselves, but also fragments of the wall decorations have been preserved in the museum’s collections. They attest to the simplicity and beauty of the theatre.

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1, 2 Fragments of the original wall coverings from the court theatre.

3 North portal of the theatre wing.

4 North portal and part of the outer wall of the theatre.

5 Chair from the former theatre.

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THE CASTLE

From a noble patrician residence to a museum

12 A R E N E N B E R G | Die Geschichte

The Napoleon Museum is today referred to as the “castle�, although it actually constitutes only a small part of it.

Its walls bear witness to virtually all past eras.

The Castle | A R E N E N B E R G 13

HEINRICH VON TETTIKOVEN (? – 1438) This aristocratic patrician from Constance purchased Narrenberg from his father-in-law, Hans Frig, in 1432. He was succeeded by the Brisachers, originally a bourgeois family, whose members were advisors to three emperors and kings in succession, but also traded in cloth. Due to their considerable affluence and their elevation to the nobility, they were considered the ultimate upwardclimbers of the 15th century. Appollonia Humpis, widow of the last of the Brisacher dynasty, sold Narrenberg in 1500 to Henni Neukomm, a merchant from Lindau, who owned it until 1512. After that, the property passed to the Carthusian monastery in Buxheim near Memmingen, before finally returning to private ownership.

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ery few traces of the late-mediaeval estate at Narrenberg seem to have survived. The only remnants believed to exist are in the vaults of the historic wine cellar and the walls of the present-day Napoleon Museum. However, based on historic documents, we have a good idea of how the estate must have looked: It comprised several buildings, at least one of stone, as well as a farm, a house for the wine press, vineyards, a (pleasure) garden, fountains, meadows and fields, pastures, springs, woodlands, fishing rights and a jetty for boats. We also know to whom it belonged: Its second owner, Heinrich von Tettikoven, is even mentioned in the Chronicle of the Council of Constance, a highly unusual occurrence for the 15th century!

Unlike the buildings that stood here in the 15th century, the castle complex from the 16th to early 19th centuries is still discernible in many places today. In addition to a main residence, it comprised two further buildings and an enclosing wall reinforced with battlements and various towers. However, it should not be assumed that these structures served to defend the castle. The walls and towers were purely decorative. According to a contemporary chronicle, Arenenberg belonged to Sebastian Geissberg, the mayor of Constance. He had the castle completely rebuilt and redesigned as a pleasure palace. After Geissberg, the property was owned by various

ANTON PROSPER VON STRENG ( 1694 – 1781) Originally in service to the Princes of Fürstenberg, Anton Prosper von Streng decided to pursue a career in government administration and eventually rose to the position of mayor of Constance, which was then part of the Austrian territories in Southwestern Germany.

He came into possession of Arenenberg through his father-in-law, Baron Karl Anton von Rüpplin and Kefikon of Thurgau, who had purchased the estate for his daughter, her husband and their five children. Besides Arenenberg, Anton Prosper von Streng owned a palace on Inselgasse in Constance and another country estate on what was known as “Smugglers’ Bay” in Constance. After his wife’s death, he devoted himself to theology, became a pastor and died an old man at Arenenberg.

1 1 The imperial city of Constance in the late Middle Ages. Top left: a patrician mansion in Thurgau.

2 “Descent from the Cross” by an unknown artist. It presumably originally hung in the old castle chapel at Arenenberg.

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families from Constance, St. Gallen and Thurgau, including some with a secular status as well as members of the clergy. Many lived at Arenenberg themselves, but most also had a residence in town. They maintained the approximately 15-hectare farm with the help of estate managers and day labourers. The focus was above all on wine-growing, and evidence even exists of an official wine tavern.

One of the most remarkable owners of Arenenberg was Anton Prosper von Streng. His grandson, Johann Baptist von Streng, sold the castle in February 1817 to Hortense de Beauharnais, Duchesse de Saint-Leu and former Queen of Holland. The original furnishings apparently remained in the possession of the von Streng or von Rüpplin families. Little is known of what became of them. A painting that appeared at an art auction is said to have come from the chapel at Arenenberg Castle during that period, and gives a good indication of the high quality of the former interior fittings. Hortense de Beauharnais purchased the castle unfurnished and immediately began redesigning it.

The Castle | A R E N E N B E R G 15

1 1 Queen Hortense’s parlour, also known as the “tent room”.

2 The stately imperial bathroom in the prince’s wing.

3 Arenenberg around 1832. From left: the castle, the chapel, the “Dépendance” with the prince’s wing, south wing, north wing and theatre wing. In the foreground: the house for the wine press, which was later converted into a guest house.

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HORT ENS E D E BEAUHARNAIS Her modifications to the castle still define Arenenberg today. The walls,

towers and outbuildings from the late Middle Ages and the Renaissance disappeared after 1820, and in their place, she built the “Dépendance” with its four wings: 1. The two-storey “prince’s wing” in the west with the estate manager’s

rooms, the kitchen and the imperial bathroom. The rooms are largely preserved in their historic state. The ground floor includes the information centre / shop / cinema and the imperial bathroom. On the first floor were the apartments of Prince Louis Napoleon (today the administrative offices of the Napoleon Museum).

2. The single-storey south wing with accommodation for the maids and ser-

vants as well as rooms for agricultural equipment. This has been largely rebuilt today with school / reception rooms for the BBZ Educational and Consulting Centre on the ground floor, and conference and hotel rooms on the upper floors.

HORTENSE DE BEAUHARNAIS (1783 – 1837) Hortense de Beauharnais, daughter of Josephine, Napoleon I’s beloved wife, was married to Louis Bonaparte, the emperor’s favourite brother, who went on to be king of Holland. The emperor wanted their children to continue the Bonaparte line on the French imperial throne. The marriage between Hortense and Louis was not a happy one and ended in divorce. After her mother’s death in 1815, Hortense replaced her at court as Première Dame de France. When the Bourbons returned to the throne, she was forced to leave France and fled with her son, Louis Napoleon, to Constance and later to Arenenberg, where she died in 1837.

3. The single-storey north wing for stables and farming equipment. This has also been completely rebuilt and now houses the Bistro Louis Napoleon on the ground floor and hotel rooms on the upper floor.

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The Castle | A R E N E N B E R G 17

1 1 The dining room was also designed as a tent.

2 Family members received visitors in the billiard room.

3 The queen’s bedroom and death room, which has been left unchanged.

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4. Single-storey “theatre wing” in the east with the court theatre, assistant

gardeners’ rooms and orangery. It has since been completely rebuilt and now houses the kitchen on the ground floor, and seminar rooms and hotel rooms on the upper floors.

The historic wine cellar from the Middle Ages was expanded (today it is used

for events) and the so-called “Lower House” at the eastern entrance to the park was turned into accommodation for the gardener and head gardener (now an apartment for employees of the BBZ). In addition, the queen had a new house built for the wine press, which was enlarged by her son, Louis Napoleon, to include guest rooms (now the library / collections / scientific and advisory area of the Napoleon Museum). In the early 1830s, a new chapel was built and the gardens were improved.

What is now known as the “castle”, the central building dating back to the

16th century (Napoleon Museum), was given a completely new facade and extended to the south, initially with a single-storey building. Napoleon III’s wife, Empress Eugenie, added a second floor to this extension and a panoramic oriel in the west.

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PRINC E LOUIS NAPOLEON, EMPEROR NAPOLEON III (1808 – 1873) The only surviving child of Louis Bonaparte and Hortense de Beauharnais came to Lake Constance with his mother in 1815, where he spent most of his childhood. From 1832, he was considered the undisputed contender for the French imperial throne. Following a first coup d’état in France, he was exiled to the USA, but returned to Arenenberg and lived there and in Gottlieben Castle near Constance until the end of 1838. After several failed attempts, he was finally elected President of the Second Republic in 1848, and Emperor four years later by plebiscite. In 1870, the FrancoPrussian War and a revolution put an end to his rule. He died in exile in England in 1873.

Although he always called Lake Constance his home, he only returned to Arenenberg once before his death.

The Castle | A R E N E N B E R G 19

The imperial family received unfamiliar guests in the stately library. They gathered here in the evenings to read newspapers, write books or while away the time with games.

The Castle | A R E N E N B E R G 21

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NAPOLEON

MUSEUM

The facade and interiors of the museum have been refurbished and largely

correspond to their appearance during the imperial era thanks to thorough scientific research and recent restoration measures. On the ground floor, visitors can view the parlours, which were reserved in those days for social occasions. The imperial family had its private rooms on the principal floor, while the apartments of the queen’s companions were on the second floor.

On the third floor were attic rooms for the ladies-in-waiting.

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1 The boudoir was where the family did minor sewing or wrote short notes.

2 Probably the most intimate room in the castle.

3 The small private library was in the queen’s study. This is where she conducted her correspondence and kept private letters.

CASTLE Visitors often stand in front of the building and ask themselves where the

“castle” is. Essentially, they are victims of a linguistic aberration that has been cultivated for decades: the claim that “only” the Napoleon Museum is Arenenberg Castle. However, the name “Arenenberg Castle” has always referred to Arenenberg as a whole; not just the Napoleon Museum, but also the buildings that house the present-day BBZ Educational and Consulting Centre. Together, they constitute what remains of the castle grounds from mediaeval or modern times. When they were donated to the Canton of Thurgau in 1906, the government recognized this fact and accounted for the estate’s heritage by naming the businesses it established in them “Napoleon Museum in Arenenberg Castle” and “Agricultural (Winter) College in Arenenberg Castle”. Later, the college disassociated itself from this joint legacy, and from then on the term “castle” was applied only to the museum.

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Die Geschichte | A R E N E N B E R G 23

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24 A R E N E N B E R G | The Castle

1 The imperial prince’s study.

2 The lake parlour on the principal floor.

3 The empress’s parlour furnished in the style of the Second Empire.

EMPRESS EUGÉNIE (1826 – 1920) Eugenie, a noblewoman from a family of Grandees of Spanish and Irish descent, married Napoleon III in 1852. Three years later, she gave birth to a successor to the throne, Louis Napoleon. She first visited Arenenberg in 1865. However, she only developed an interest in the estate after her husband's death, spending the summer months on the lake together with her son until 1878. One year later, the crown prince died in British service, after which she wearied of the castle and only visited Arenenberg rarely.

It is sometimes difficult for outsiders to comprehend how different historical periods sometimes converge and become visible in the Napoloen Museum. For example, three phases of construction are evident from the days of Queen Hortense alone.

After her death, her son Prince Louis Napoleon continued the work, but incorporated his mother’s taste.

Karl Keller, to whom the castle was sold in 1843, did not make any changes. On the contrary, the estate fell visibly into disrepair.

In 1855, Emperor Napoleon III reaquired Arenenberg and had the existing complex renovated. However, he specified that his mother’s style should not be changed at all, or only very little. These measures and refurbishments continued for decades, right up until his death.

From 1874, his widow Empress Eugenie continued to make improvements, adding her own sense of style. In 1906, the empress donated the castle to the canton of Thurgau. Alterations made during this time are also still evident, however, the Department for the Preservation of Historic Monuments and the museum’s management are today convinced that these should be reversed over time and the castle restored to the state it was in during the days of the empire.

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The Castle | A R E N E N B E R G 25

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CANTON OF THURGAU In 1906, Empress Eugenie donated the castle and its grounds to the Canton of Thurgau. Three conditions were attached to the donation: The main buildings of the estate must never be sold, and they must be put to public use (museum and college); she also specified that several services should be held every year in the castle chapel for her and her family for the next 100 years. The canton accepted these conditions, modernised the castle building in accordance with contemporary tastes or practical considerations. Additional college buildings were added, the architecture of which unfortunately did nothing to complement the castle’s enchanting beauty. However, building activities carried out in recent years have been aimed at preventing the repetition of past mistakes and creating a more harmonious picture at Arenenberg wherever possible.

The imperial prince is pleased with his bedroom.

The Bonaparte family crest is even emblazoned on the doorknobs.

Empress Eugenie’s bedroom.

The pleasure ground next to the castle underwent radical changes in the 20th century.

5 The doors to the historic wine cellar are currently only opened for guided tours and wine tasting events.

The Castle | A R E N E N B E R G 27

THE CASTLE CHAPEL To some the kingdom of heaven, to others “just” a gothic room

Today the chapel is high on the list of the 50 most beautiful places in Switzerland to get married and described romantically as “very intimate”. Its foundations date as far back as the late Middle Ages.

Queen Hortense enjoyed purchasing objects of art from former churches and monasteries. This altar was reassembled by a goldsmith from Constance.

It is hardly surprising that the so-called “Jacob’s Ladder” has ended here ever since then. It rises symbolically from the park’s dark lowlands, the mediaeval “vale of tears on earth”, straight up to the “kingdom of heaven”.

Situated directly opposite the monastery church on Reichenau Island, the chapel is referred to by many visitors as the “beauty on the lake”. The views stretch from the Lower Lake to the Bodanrück ridge, and as far as the Hegau volcanos, and from there across Überlingen Lake to the Linzgau region. A truly “heavenly” outlook!

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However, the chapel was originally not only intended as a house of worship. Queen Hortense also wanted a “Gothic room” in her garden. Her wish was fulfilled. Joseph von Lassberg, brother-in-law of the famous poetess Annette von Droste-Hülshoff, came up with the idea. A visitor remembers: “Several steps lead up to the door; inside, it resembles a Gothic room […]. The background only comes into view when the large double doors on the back wall are opened, revealing a beautifully decorated altar mounted on steps.”

1 The chapel, built in 1832, features in a contemporary oil painting 2 The chapel interior is a romantic place of worship and a venue for regular concerts.

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The Castle | A R E N E N B E R G 29

The Gardens

Arenenberg has always been surrounded by a variety of gardens. The present-day park takes visitors through 600 years of horticulture within a very small area.

The Gardens | A R E N E N B E R G 31

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L AT E M I D D L E A G E S – A G A R D E N F O R T H E T E T T I KO V E N A N D B R I S A C H E R F A M I L I E S

VON

Gardens presumably existed at Arenenberg as early as Roman times, although this cannot be proven. There is insufficient scientific evidence of how people lived here in Late Antiquity.

However, this changed in the late Middle Ages. Documents from the castle archives show that there were gardens of all known kinds, from vineyards and vegetable gardens, to orchards and even a pleasure garden for the castle’s noble owners.

We do not know exactly where this patrician garden was located, but it was most likely next to the main stone building, facing south and enclosed. As so little is known about the garden’s appearance and position, it has been reconstructed based on the writings of Albertus Magnus and Pietro de' Crescenzi, kept in monastic libraries in Thurgau and Constance.

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1 The mediaeval pleasure garden has been reconstructed in the southwest of the park.

2 Since 1539 at the latest, the gardens at Arenenberg were modelled on the Renaissance, with terraces sloping down towards the lake and perspective views.

3 The so-called “tunnel grotto” that dates back at least to the 16th century was converted into a latrine tunnel in the late 19th century.

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RENAISSANCE –

THE GARDENS OF

SEBASTIAN GEISSBERG

AND HIS SUCCESSORS

When a summer residence was built at Arenenberg after 1539, the gardens were redesigned to face north towards the lake. Modelled on the Italian Renaissance, they included terraces, water features and grottos, some traces of which still remain today. A garden of this kind should not be thought of in terms of comparable gardens in Tuscany, since neither the craftsmanship nor the required funds were available on Lake Constance.

But the owners of Arenenberg maintained excellent relations south of the Alps and were able to instruct local builders on the ideas of the Renaissance. The kitchen gardens were partly redesigned and integrated into the pleasure garden, as was customary at the time. The focus was on vineyards and orchards. Fields, meadows and woods were obviously less important.

The Gardens | A R E N E N B E R G 33

1 1 The pleasure ground adjacent to the castle was designed in the mid-20th century as a small French Baroque garden.

2 The vineyards originally grew right up to the castle itself. They were scaled back in this area in around 1830.

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BAROQUE – THE GARDENS S T R E N G FA M I L I E S

OF THE VON

RÜPPLIN

AND VON

Arenenberg never had an original Baroque garden, as neither the surrounding landscape nor the castle itself were suited to one.

However, in the mid-20th century, the pleasure ground south of the Napoleon Museum was radically redesigned in the Baroque style. It was generally agreed that “a French castle requires a French garden”. As a result, a lawn was planted with a large fountain, geometric hedges and decorative flowers. Red sandstone figures from a nearby Baroque palace were added. The overall ensemble was modelled on Versailles.

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T H E L A N D S C A P E PA R K – A WORK OF ART BY QUEEN HORTENSE It is not known whether the hermitage, built no later than the 18th century, and the woodlands with their clearly marked hunting grounds were part of an early landscaped park or whether they date back to the Renaissance. However, the first “imperial” park outlined by Hortense de Beauharnais in 1816 was certainly in the former style. According to contemporary statements, the queen preserved some details (e.g. the water features, grottos, hermitage), but did away with other typical elements, such as the terraces. Place names like the “Italian terrace” are still reminiscent of the Renaissance gardens. Hortense designed the pathways, which have now been restored, and set up a sophisticated, modern water system to supply major new installations, such as the large fountain.

Around this time, the first orangery was built at Arenenberg. It was situated at the southern end of the east wing, behind the assistant gardener’s rooms and the court theatre.

The pôtager, or vegetable garden, also dates back to this period. It was planted between what would later become the guesthouse and the orangery, on exactly the same spot where an herb garden was planted during the Renaissance and perhaps even as far back as the Middle Ages. The queen kept the orchards and fields as they were, modifying only the vineyards – Hortense loved the grape harvest!

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1 The vegetable garden was situated to the right of the guesthouse and bordered onto the orangery in the east.

2 The Italian terrace is surrounded by typical box shrubs on the side facing the lake.

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ECLECTICISM – N A P O L E O N III W A S

ALSO A

”P A R KO M A N I A C “

Prince Louis Napoleon and his mother were influenced in transforming the landscaped park by the work of Prince Hermann von Pückler-Muskau. They introduced exotic plants and created an arboretum, which has now almost completely disappeared. In addition, they changed the landscape in front of the museum to give it its present appearance by moving vast amounts of earth. They planted colourful flower beds around the hermitage and redesigned the pleasure ground as a parterre with beds and borders forming geometric patterns. Later, a small fountain was added. Even after he became emperor, Louis Napoleon remained faithful to his principles and continued to have the gardens at Arenenberg maintained in Pückler’s style by one of Pückler’s students. This naturally also included the kitchen gardens, a tradition continued today by the college gardens.

3 1,3 The hermitage is surrounded by magnificent flowers as far as the eye can see.

2 The remains of the arboretum on an autumn afternoon.

4 The oldest preserved map of the park dates back to 1836; it was later revised several times.

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New Horizons T H E 2 0 T H C E N T U RY When the property was donated to the Canton of Thurgau, circumstances changed radically. Once a single entity, the castle estate was split into a museum, a college and a farm. There was no longer a need for a noble garden with the sole purpose of edification. Although the plant nursery was kept, it was assigned to the farm and instructed to simplify everything from an agricultural and educational perspective. As a result, not only the brightly coloured flower beds, the water features and the hermitage disappeared, but the arboretum was only used for educational purposes from then on and thinned out until almost nothing remained. Other areas became overgrown or were used as a dump for rubble from building the new school house. All the loveliness and the history of the gardens seemed lost for ever.

But things often turn out differently than we expect: Thanks to Georg Alfons Simon, the last imperial gardener and the first cantonal gardener at the agricultural college, the gardens created by Queen Hortense and her son have now been restored to their original beauty. He resisted the destruction of “his” park and defied instructions to do so. He ensured that the grottos, pathways and fountains were preserved by carefully covering them with earth. They were soon forgotten and only rediscovered in the early 21st century. Visitors to the museum can now admire these witnesses to 600 years of history.

Compared with the pleasure gardens, the kitchen gardens were given greater attention. The vineyards and orchards, vegetable gardens and fields were enlarged. A new college was established, and the former court nursery incorporated into it. In addition, livestock farming, virtually non-existent at Arenenberg before, gained significance. The former castle estate was transformed into the BBZ Educational and Consulting Centre, which has acquired a reputation far beyond the region’s borders.

1 This map of the estate from 1907 shows the changes made soon after it was donated.

2 The museum and school in the mid-20th century. In the middle, the pôtager can be clearly seen.

3 The theatre wing in the east was replaced by the Dépendance, a contemporary college building.

4, 5, 6 Impressions of the 21st century college gardens.

PRESENT

DAY

Things did not change again until the turn of the century. The Napoleon III Foundation set up to support the Napoleon Museum decided to explore and recreate the gardens in cooperation with the regional government of Thurgau. Areas that had long been buried were uncovered and restored. Lost installations, such as the “Jacob’s Ladder”, were reinterpreted based on historic information. Thanks to numerous private donations, the first part of the restored park was opened to the public as early as 2008. But the work is far from complete. There are still many fascinating discoveries to be made in the vineyards, in the woodlands, in the vicinity of the “Serpentines”, and above all in and around the gorge at the eastern entrance to the park.

The pôtager is waiting to be excavated and the history of winegrowing researched. What was grown at Arenenberg after the Middle Ages? What animals were kept here?

Researchers at the museum have long been quietly exploring the gardens, and new discoveries have been archived and are ready to be presented to the public. Starting in 2016, a new circular trail will take visitors through Arenenberg Park. The gardens belonging to the BBZ Educational and Consulting Centre constitute a major part of it.

The Gardens | A R E N E N B E R G 39

Every stone, plant and living creature at Arenenberg tells a story. A unique constellation.

A Living Legacy

1 2

1,2 Manual labour is indispensable in the 21st century, too.

Back to the Future Visitors today experience Arenenberg as an attractive place with various areas of focus. Culture, tourism, research, education and consulting are the central pillars.

However, not all guests are equally aware of these different areas. In addition to agriculture, wine-growing and gardening, the main functions of the BBZ Educational and Consulting Centre are education and advice. New programmes include courses in musical instrument-making, seminars and conferences, and catering.

The Napoleon Museum comprises the so-called “castle�, the shop and the tourist information centre at Arenenberg, as well as the court chapel and the historic gardens with their various attractions and buildings. It also runs a research centre with extensive collections on various subjects and a special Napoleonic library, neither of which are accessible to the public. As a result of this division of responsibilities, the museum has various functions. Its main task is to preserve, research, present and convey Napoleonic history in German-speaking countries, with a focus on the early 19th century.

More recently, the museum assumed the task of presenting the history of European horticulture, the different eras of which are reflected in the gardens at Arenenberg. The research department and the museum have a strong international focus and work closely with institutes at home and abroad. The emphasis in transferring knowledge is increasingly on creating experiences.

Unlike more conventional museum locations, Arenenberg has traditionally been an important tourist destination and a cultural information point and attraction in the Canton of Thurgau and the Lake Constance region. The Napoleon Museum has been committed to this role for more than 100 years. Its well-stocked museum shop fits seamlessly into the agenda of a popular tourist location, as do the catering services offered by the BBZ Educational and Consulting Centre.

True to the imperial family’s ideals, Arenenberg is an international centre for education, consultation and research, and a place where visitors can learn about Napoleonic history, gardens and modern horticulture. An attractive blend for all visitors!

A Living Legacy | A R E N E N B E R G 45

5

HOSPITALITY

at Arenenberg

Hospitality has a long tradition at Arenenberg. Even back in the

Middle Ages, the owners of Narrenberg entertained their various guests here. They served fruit and vegetables, crops from the fields, fish from the lake and meat from local farms.

This tradition was continued in the days of Queen Hortense and her son, Emperor Napoleon III. They obtained their vegetables from the pôtager, meat, milk and eggs from the farm estate, fish from the lake and other basic produce from the fields or neighbouring farms. They naturally also made use of the surrounding forests in Thurgau and on the other side of the lake in Baden, with their abundant supply of game.

Dinner was served at around 6 pm. The chefs at court incorporated elements of French haute cuisine as well as preparing simple, regional fare. “The food was brought to the table on silver and beautiful porcelain dishes, placed on silver réchauds and then served on individual plates. The soup was simply passed

48 A R E N E N B E R G | A Living Legacy

around in bowls. There were usually eight courses, as well as small dishes and dessert. The food was tasty, elegantly served, but not conspicuously luxurious” (Klara von Greyerz). Unfortunately, no hand-written recipe book from Arenenberg has survived, but “imperial recipes” passed down from generation to generation in old families from Constance and Thurgau are still cultivated today.

Visitors who intended to stay longer were given not only a bed, but had the use of a separate guest house.

It is therefore not surprising that the faculty for seminars and conferences at BBZ Educational and Consulting Centre still feels bound to this tradition. The restaurant at Arenenberg offers regional delicacies under the motto “seasonal, regional – always fresh”, and the hotel has 85 beds for guests. In addition, the college organises culinary workshops.

Two Arenenberg recipes from the days of Queen Hortense, preserved in a hand-written family recipe book.

Die Geschichte | A R E N E N B E R G 49

WINE-GROWING at Arenenberg

Fragments of drinking vessels from the Late Antiquity suggest that wine was cultivated at Arenenberg as early as Roman times. First written evidence can be found in documents dating as far back as 1400. They mention various vineyards, a wine press and of course wine-growers, who were responsible for maintaining the vines and producing the wine. They were members of the wine-grower’s guild in Constance, which ensured compliance with its statutes down to the last detail and was concerned with the quality of the wine. Even then, wine from Arenenberg must have been of high quality, because the owners of the vineyards earned rich profits. They even decided to establish a wine tavern on their property.

Queen Hortense and her family continued the wine-growing tradition. From old stock ledgers, we know that they had 24 wine barrels in total with a capacity of just under 70,000 litres, divided among three cellars. The largest barrel alone had a volume of around 9,000 litres.

50 A R E N E N B E R G | A Living Legacy

Apart from locally grown grapes, the imperial family also kept a substantial supply of imported wine: In 1827 their stock included some 5,000 bottles of different origin, six more barrels, and a significant collection of spirits. Several bottles from the wine cellars of Napoleon III have been preserved: Bordeaux, St. Emilion, 1855.

Today, wine is grown at Arenenberg on three hectares of land in one of the most beautiful locations on the Lower Lake.

Thanks to careful vinification and many years of experience, the estate produces full-bodied Pinot Noirs, smooth cuvĂŠes, fruity white wines and brandies.

Constance wine-growers around 1610.

Die Geschichte | A R E N E N B E R G 51

Selected visitors remember ...

Unfortunately, only a small number of guest books have survived. However, so many poetic recollections have been preserved that they have now been published in a notebook and on a tour through the park.

The second Bay of Naples

“A

fter dining, we returned to the parlour, then the duchess took us outside to admire the views and the environs of the house. On one side, the hill drops fairly steeply down towards the lakeshore, while up at the house a rather narrow path [...] leads around. At the corner of the castle, where the path widens somewhat, stands a large tree with a bench from where one can enjoy the most charming views of the lake, painted golden at that moment by the glowing rays of the evening sun. An Italian lady asked me if I had ever been to Naples. I answered in the negative. “Eh bien, Madame! Vous voyez ici le golfe de Naples en miniature!” [What you see here is the Bay of Naples en miniature] she exclaimed, and several of those present agreed. It was certainly one of the most delightful views I had ever seen.

”

52 A R E N E N B E R G | Poetic Recollections

KLARA VON GREYERZ (1790 - 1839) Her recollections include some of the most vivid and detailed descriptions of life at Arenenberg. Unfortunately, not much is known about the author herself.

She was very artistic and cut delicate silhouettes out of paper. Queen Hortense and Klara became friends in Augsburg.

They may have met through their children.

A new home

“A

mong the country residences the queen visited in the Canton of Thurgau near Constance was one that attracted her attention in particular: It was a small stately home with a somewhat dismal appearance at the time, but very beautifully situated. Built half way up the hill on a kind of promontory, it overlooked the Lower Lake and Reichenau Island. To the west, the views were of lovely headlands planted with trees and separated charmingly and variously by small bays. […] A certain distance from the house at the other end of the estate, the scene extended over the village of Ermatingen with the lake and the current of the Rhine lapping so cheerfully and gracefully at its shores, and from there to the town of Constance and the liquid planes of the Upper Lake, dominated by the glaciers of Säntis Mountain.

”

LOUISE COCHELET (1783 – 1835) A confidante at the court of Queen Hortense for many years, she worked as a reader and lady’s companion and had accompanied the queen since they had met at school in St. Germain.

The relationship between the two women was one of love and hate and yet mutual dependence. In 1817 Louise Cochelet bought the castles of Sandegg and Salenstein close to Arenenberg. After marrying Major Charles Parquin, a retired colonel from Napoleon’s army, she established a boarding house in Wolfsberg Castle near Ermatingen to accommodate distinguished guests at Arenenberg.

“In the grass I saw glow-worms, which always put me in a sombre mood, because they remind me of the countless and various autumns of my past life ...”

A boat ride to Arenenberg

“W FRANÇ OIS- RENÉ DE C HATEA UBRIAND (1796 – 1887) The great French novelist, statesman and romantic, called an “enchanter” by his admirers during his lifetime, visited Constance and the court of Queen Hortense in the late summer of 1832. He took a boat ride together with his companion Juliette Récamier, and landed on the shores of Arenenberg Park.

54 A R E N E N B E R G | Poetic Recollections

e went on a boat trip on the lake […] eventually landing on the shores of a park. […] A pavilion stood in the middle of the gardens, and an elegant country house nestled against the edge of the forest. In the grass I saw glow-worms, which always put me in a sombre mood, because they remind me of the countless and various autumns of my past life. We walked at random, finally resting on a bench […]. From the pavilion to the woods, one could hear harmonies of harps and horns; but as we listened, surprised and enraptured, they suddenly fell silent. It was like a scene from a fairy-tale.

As the melody did not resume, I read my description of St. Gotthard to Madame Récamier; she asked me to write something in her pocket book, […] [I wrote] in pencil: “At Lake Constance I have found what I was searching for on Lake Lucerne, the allure and the recognition of beauty.

I do not want to die like Rousseau, I wish to see the sun for many years to come, if only I may spend my life close to it. Ah, if only I could end my days at its feet, like the waves whose murmur you so love.” […] The blue of the lake glistened between the leaves; on the southern horizon, the peaks of the Grisons rose up; a wind played in the willows and then fell asleep again, as the waves came and went; we saw nobody and we did not know where we were.

”

FAREWELL “

As we rose to take our leave, [Hortense] offered to accompany us part of the way on this beautiful evening. She came with us approximately […] to a point where she could enjoy wide views of the lake, over which the moon was rising like a red ball […]. “Now I will bid you farewell,” she said, and we left her to the calm contemplation of a grandeur that will never fade and a pleasure that will never deceive. That was the last time I saw her, and maybe will ever see her again, perfect Hortense, but I will remember our short acquaintance for ever; like being immersed in those days that lent her country the character of the most excellent nation.

”

Unknown English author (1823)

Souvenirs Even during Queen Hortense’s days, it was considered good manners for visitors to the court to bring a souvenir home with them for their loved ones. Books and manuscripts were the most popular mementoes. Or alternatively, an “Arenenberg MüllerThurgau” wine or a French eau de toilette? Souvenirs from Arenenberg can still be enjoyed with all the senses.

Hortense Labhards

D E

B E A U H A R N A I S

The Fateful Years of a Queen

Schicksalsjahre einer Königin Face à son destin

Deutschland/Österreich 9,80 € Schweiz 12.00 CHF France 9,80 €

Napoleon III The French Emperor at Lake Constance Euro 7,50, CHF 12.–

Labhards 8 CHF

ARENENBERG Napoleonmuseum · Musée Napoléon · Napoleon Museum

Schlosspark Parc du château Castle Park Hintergründe, Geschichte, Rundgang Contexte, histoire, circuit Background, History, Tour

D OM I N I K G Ü G E L · C H R I S T I NA E G L I

Hortense de Beauharnais The Fateful Years of a Queen Euro 9,80, CHF 12.–

Arenenberg Park Guide Euro 5,–, CHF 8.–

All magazines are available in the shop or can be ordered from Labhard Medien at www.labhard.de

Notices My Imperial Notebook CHF 19.80 (available only in the museum shop)

Arenenberg Castle with Napoleon Museum Thurgau Educational and Consulting Centre CH-8268 Salenstein www.napoleonmuseum.ch www.arenenberg.ch Museum: +41 58 345 7410 Bistro/ hotel reception: +41 71 663 33 33

Museum opening hours: Mon – Sun 10 am to 5 pm Ticket office closes at 4.30 pm Closed on Mondays in winter