KURE ISSUE 4
TPFF
S P E CI AL E DI T ION 2OT H ANNI VE R SARY
SAD JAN E
NEW TA L ENT F ROM WEST E R N AUSTR A L I A
T H E NAKED t ru t h a b ou t
" HOODEDWEPT" FASHION
THERAPY 1
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CONTENTS 7. EDITO #1
18. HOODEDWEPT #4
9. BEAUTY #2 36. TPFF 18 #6 12. SAD JANE #3 46. CHRISSY BATTALIS #7
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KU R E M AG A Z I N E D i re c tor Editor - in - chief C re a t i ve d i re c tor E u ro pe S wi t z er l a n d c o o rd i n a t o r France coordinator
C h r i s t i a n F E RT A y m e r i c F UTO L L a u r a G ABRI E L L E D a n y C A D ONA P i e r r e G AUTRAN
1 0 - 1 4 P i e r s tre et 6000 / Perth ku re @ fa - co n ce p t . n et
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ED I TO It has been a long journey lately to launch a new issue every month! Fortunately with a lot of effort and good team work we managed to achieve the best results. We are glad to have some readers from all over the world (Australia, France, Italy, United States, South Korea, Canada, South Africa, Brazil, India…) just to mention a few that we reach through
"Western Australia: Under the Fashion Sun!"
our beautiful fashion platform. Each magazine is the « fruit » of a long process to find the perfect editorial line. To match our fashion vision and our need to be inclusive of all the talent in every shape and form! This issue is very important to me for highlighting the fashion industry in Western Australia, which is
You will be able to see the talent of my Australian team, the result is exceedingly stunning. And it’s all happening in Western Australia!!!
to my sense not known enough overseas. My goal is to share my experience of the Western Australian fashion scene, expressing an insight into the well known designers to the ‘new-born’ inspirations… You will discover all the best looks
Keep Reading and see you.
Editor - In - Chief AYMERIC FUTOL
and collections from the TPFF18 and some backstage moments. I will share my honest opinion with you concerning all the good elements and discussing all the aspects that can be improved. Again it’s only my humble opinion, I believe constructive criticism can be useful and positive when it comes to the improvements of the West Australian fashion collectives. Our Only editorial for this issue is built around a brand that I particularly love; Hoodedwept, a revolutionising brand showcasing for the first time during the Telstra Perth Fashion Festival 2018!
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RUNWAY BE AUTY
MO R DE RN METALL ICS A Milan Fashion Week runways never fail to shake up the make-up scene. This year, the looks were notably more urban with pops of jewel tones and metallic shades grounded by an otherwise nude palette. Fashion guns taking the lead were Prada, Stella Jean and Emporio Armani, who showed how to rock metallic makeup in three iconic ways. Festival goers will want to check out Prada’s version of a crystal-studded winged eye, anchored by a swipe of bottle green, while those who prefer a statement lip might be drawn to Stella Jean’s models who cooled down the runway with an icy silver lip and nude base. What most inspired us was Emporio Armani’s take on modern metallics with his triad of green, charcoal and silver in an artful ‘smudgey’ eye that was both chic and ‘grungey’.
"The ‘new smoky’ is less
about creating the
perfect transition between colours and more-so about artfully placing smudges of metallic colour over the lids to define and highlight."
A New Smoky Linda Cantello, Armani’s makeup artist who created the runway look calls it ‘a new smoky’ and we’re loving it. Cantello’s look is all about a deconstructed smoky eye – it doesn’t have to be perfect. Here we’ve recreated the look using Armani’s green, charcoal and silver tones that stole the runway, but you can use any metallic colours or jewel tones for this look. Keep your lips and cheeks nude and let your eyes do the talking.
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The Kit Take a peek inside our kit and see what we used to recreate the look at FA Concept. Maybelline Great Lash Mascara , Beauty Tools brush, NARS Velvet Lip Glide in Swing, Face Atelier Foundation in Zero Minus and 01, Chanel blush in Orchid Rose, Napoleon brush 18b, Inglot AMC Pure Pigment Eye Shadow #56 and ELF blush brush.
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Makeup Artist: Alana Pare ra M o del : D a n i elle B l a n c h P h oto g r a p h e r : D i a n a A b eleda
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FASHI ON TAL ENT
SAD JANE
Since I discovered Perth (WA) in 2013, I fell in
was gifted a sewing machine and began playing
love with a city that amazed me. Being a
around, cutting up old clothes and turning them
fashion designer, I am finding myself
into various new pieces. Lisa really loved doing
pondering various stores to see what is available
this type of thing and kept this as a hobby that
on the local market. Allowing me the pleasure to
she would later end up coming back to.
stumble upon unique boutiques and designers in Northbridge, such as; « Fi&Co » or
Where did you Study?
Elle & Lui in Claremont, Khirzad on King street…
Funnily enough, I never actually studied
That’s how I discovered the ‘first
fashion! It’s a bit of a long story… so grab that
fashion designer’! I will be introducing designer
second cup of coffee! In high school I had
SAD JANE by Lisa Henderson, in this article.
applied and was accepted into a TAFE course
When you meet Lisa you cannot forget her,
in textiles, however at the time there was a bit
always perfectly dressed (vintage inspired)
of pressure to go down the university route and
completed with hair that excites like the
study ‘TEE’ subjects instead, which I did. After
‘burning sunset’!… Her Smile and kindness
finishing high school I wasn’t really sure what
brightens the hearts of myself and many; Lisa
I wanted to do. I knew that deep down I would
Henderson I applaud you!
have loved to work in the fashion industry but talked myself out of it (again). In an effort to be
"Our Team interviewed the beautiful Lisa from Sad Jane, a Perth designer expressing her originality, playing with colours and fabrics to create a range of clothing lines. Be sure to visit these unique creations… " Lisa was born and raised in Perth (Western Australia), a relatively small capital city. Growing up on a property an hour out of the city, Lisa experienced a farming lifestyle spending most of her time outdoors doing activities that were definitely hands on; using her imagination making and building all types of projects and getting creative in general. In her adolescence years, Lisa’s parents had noticed that she was a bit of a shy young lady deciding to put her into a few activities to help bring more confidence. One of the activities that stuck with Lisa was modelling; She had a great teacher and learnt a lot and she believed this is where her love for fashion was born. When she was thirteen she
‘realistic’, I went to university with the intention of obtaining a Bachelor of Communication. Again I applied to accompany this with a minor of Contemporary Fashion, but then pulled out last minute and swapped to a minor in Contemporary Theatre. I made some great life long friends and really enjoyed the coursework so much so that I swapped my degree over and ended up with my Bachelor of Theatre instead. (…Not so ‘realistic’ in the end I suppose!) The reason I share this, is that although I didn’t end up committing to studying fashion, I believe that anything that you learn and any other fields you develop in are still beneficial. Life experiences weigh in a lot more than we are told when at that younger age. As a great friend of mine at the time advised me ‘just follow your nose!’ When did you decide to open the shop and why? Sad Jane just celebrated its 4th Birthday! I don’t even know what made me decide to open the shop to be honest – I just did! I went in with
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no real brand focus or grand plan in mind.., I will add though that the shop is also my studio space where I work; therefore it primarily served as a studio but with an adjoining shop front where people could also come in and have a look. My creative room at home was bursting at the seams (and spilling into the entire house) and I found that my days at home were not so productive. I felt like I would work better in a space away from the home, which is when I came across a small and affordable space in the city and thought… BOOM - lets do it! Tell us about your style, your understanding of vintage? I love fun fashion. Whilst vintage covers a HUUGGGEEE range of periods and styles, I simply cannot go past the 60’s / 70’s. Think Flower Power Baby! I love to work with bright, bold and retro prints and well as pop art and kitschy imagery. Whist I take my inspiration from this and would love to live in this world personally; I tend to make things that are a sort of in-between this and a subtler everyday wear… but of course with a splash of fun. At the end of the day, I just like to make and collect things that pop out at me and hope that there are other people out there that feel the same way. Your range of fabric is very wide, how do you to choose them correctly? I am drawn to colour and print; and I often seek vintage fabrics to work with. In a way, I tend to work backward as
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I like to collect fabrics without necessarily having
‘target customers’ are divided into certain
any intention behind them. I can sit on a stash of
demographics like age, sex,
fabric for years and then one day I’ll look at it and
occupation etc. I really don’t feel that these
I’ll have an epiphany and just know what to do with
things are relevant to me. I have people of
it (which is when I realise I didn’t purchase enough
all genders and all ages that can relate to
in the first place!) There are many factors involved
what I do, and I like it that way. For me it’s
including being at the right place at the right time
more about a mindset. Therefore, I suppose
but in particular with the right frame of mind. I could
my target customers are any people that
collect fabric for a living if I could and can say that
like to think for themselves, the kind that
fabric shopping is probably my favourite part of the
aren’t afraid to walk into a kooky little shop
process – you can never have too many fabrics!!
down an arcade off the beaten track. Whilst I understand that my vibe isn’t for
Which pieces of your brand do you like the most
everyone but everyone is welcome.
and why? Ooh this is a tricky
Do you have
one! At the moment
the project to
I particularly love
do a catwalk?
making ‘mismatched’
I do not have
men’s shirts. One of
anything in
my latest faves is
the pipeline at
a two- tone linen /
the moment
cotton shirt with a
in terms of
banana leaf print that
putting on a
contrasts with a
runway show.
tropical bird and
However,
pineapple fabric. They
saying that I
are so fun and make
am open to
me feel fun summer
the idea and
vibes. Another
have been
favourite I’m
considering
working on at the moment is the ‘Space Jumpsuit’…
putting together a ‘collection’ so to speak.
a
Maybe in the future, we
women’s cut ‘onesie’ that is very versatile and
shall see!
flattering. What I love about this latest design is that the one pattern can create such a different look
Where did you see your shop in 5 years?
depending on the choice of fabric and accessories.
Hopefully still open! Haha! Brick and
On one end it can be funky / fun street, but then on
mortar isn’t particularly easy these days
the other end can also be very elegant and classy.
but as a red headed Taurus, I am pretty
It’s comfortable, and that’s a big draw card for me
passionate… and quite stubborn. To be
these days.
perfectly honest though, and I know it may sound a little boring; I would be happy to
What are your target customers in
simply live a life where I can do what I
your shop?
enjoy, and be able to support myself and
Again, I tend to struggle with this question. Often,
my family doing so.
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"T H E NA KE D TRUTH ABOUT NE I L S HE RIF F"
HO O DEDWEP T
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" « I T HIN K T HAT I HAD CHA NG E D A ND S O HA D T HE COUNTRY, S O IT F ELT L IK E T HE RI GHT T IME TO R E T UR N . »" 20
Being from the United Kingdom just like all of
brand on $300 cash and fabric bolts a friend
his family. Neil didn’t have such a great time
from England sent me. It was all very organic
growing up here, like many creative kids, was
and originally driven by passion rather than
heavily bullied at school. Returning back to
commerce. Our first collection was a great
England as soon as he graduated from university,
success, thanks to local support from retailers
just to escape such a dismal creative scene here
and luminary industry figures such as Aly May
in Perth. Staying in London for eleven years,
from Department of Culture & the Arts and
Neil developed a name for himself, creating
the team from STYLEAID. This rapid success
designs for various brands, living out his wildest
meant that we could afford to upgrade and
dreams, professionally. This period of his life
move to our current studio space, a beautiful
was a magical and very educational period for
refurbished warehouse in Claremont. Stockists
Neil. Being far from his family, making Neil feel
soon followed and before I knew it we had
the need to begin the inevitable journey back
shown in Paris Fashion Week with our
to Perth, ‘the sunburnt country’. Which to Neil’s
SS18 collection.
arrival he noticed that the Western Australia he left, definitely was not the same creatively upon
Which university did you attend to become
his return.
a designer? Despite having a hard
When did you decide to
time at school, design
start Hoodedwept
and construction is
and why?
something I always
When I returned to
showed a talent for
Australia, I was fortunate
and I started very
enough to secure a role
early, I attended a
with Saxony Australia,
specialist high school
traveling between
that allowed me to
Melbourne and Sydney
study a fashion-based
as their National Brand
curriculum alongside
and Operations Manager
my conventional
working alongside my
studies, before
mentor, Creative Director
being accepted
Stan Wan, to whom I owe
into WAAPA (West
much of my business
Australian Academy
know-how. Saxony
Of Performing Arts) to
embodied a beautiful, dark
study Stage Design,
and utilitarian aesthetic
ma joring in costume.
that I deeply connected with and when Saxony wound down business during the GFC, I was truly heartbroken. I decided that I was ready to, once again, do something myself and so
When I returned to London I supplemented my education with courses at London College Of Fashion. Beyond that, it’s just practice, practice, practice.
I bought a cheap domestic sewing machine,
You are a Lecturer as well as a designer, what
got out my pattern-draughting gear, rented
do you love teaching to up-coming
a cheap, grotty studio space in Northbridge
Designers & Stylists?
and started making the first pieces of what
Yes, that’s right, I adore lecturing fashion and
would become Hoodedwept AW15. I started the
have done since my time in the UK. I sometimes
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find it hard to quell my passion for the subject in class,
embodying the whole brand aesthetic
but my students hopefully find it endearing as opposed
and culture would be a dream.
to distracting (laughs). Firstly I always say “LEARN TO SEW”. Being able to engineer and craft your own samples is the greatest gift you can give yourself. Mostly I enjoy teaching them to be realistic as well as ambitious with their goals and plans. Fashion can be a tough industry and everyone wants to be the next Versace, or the next Rick Owens as soon as they leave. I always say to them “Get some practice first. screw up on someone
Where do you see your brand in the future? Ideally we would like to continue growing our brand sustainably, without compromising quality or aesthetic. Personally I’d like to increase Hoodedwept’s international
else's time before you screw up on your own.”
presence by increasing our European
Where do you find your inspiration?
have 1 in the US and 1 in Sweden).
Everywhere! (laughs) Mainly music and lyrics. I’m a huge
Long term, I would love to see our
fan of the written word and many genuine artists such
brand with retail concessions in key
as P.J Harvey, Nick Cave, Kate Bush, David Bowie and
cities across the globe relevant to
Leonard Cohen inform many of the shapes and textures
our demographic. I would also love
used in the Hoodedwept collections. Also imagery and
to increase the amount of creative
art. At the moment I’m particularly obsessed by the
collaborations we undertake with
imagery of Caravaggio and renaissance Italy…all those
musicians, artists and other designers
rich reds, dark shadows and Catholic guilt: I love it.
to constantly enrich and refresh the
Do you consider yourself more commercial or artistic in your creations? Well, our unofficial slogan is “Sexy Avant Garde” so I like to think that, as a designer, as a person and as a label, I/
and USA stockists (at present we
creative energies that flow through the brand. Hoodedwept was always conceived, in part, as a creative platform for this very reason.
we straddle both of those ideals. The collections originate
The Australian market here is really
from a place of thought, avant-garde ideology and
different, what are your
high-concept, however the silhouettes and functionality
target customers?
of the ranges are very intentionally adapted for a more
I don’t like to place a specific age or
commercial outcome. At the end of the day, people love
socioeconomic label on the clients
expressing that darker, edgier energy, and all of us like
who connect with our product and
to feel attractive, both men and women (and everything
brand, but generally speaking, Male
in between). It is inherent in all of us, but only a few will
and Female creative professionals,
want to take it to the extremes. Hoodedwept has always
especially those in PR/Marketing,
been conceived as that bridge between the avant-garde
Graphic design, architecture but
and a more sexy/wearable aesthetic adaptable to more
also in the make-up, hair and beauty
conventional wardrobes.
industries, Lovers of “dark fashion” and those who wish to explore their
Do you want to open a shop in Australia?
own style beyond the norms of
Absolutely. A stand-alone retail destination is very much
conventional ready-to-wear.
on the cards for our 5 year plan. At the moment we have a healthy amount of stockists within Australia who always excel in getting our brand out there, but a concept store
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I saw you at the closing of the TPFF, was it an important event for you in
the fashion industry in Perth to attend and why? Oh, look it was such an honour to be invited and TPFF it is by far the premier showcase for any designer or brand operating from West Australia. The shows are always of an international standard and the exposure certainly helps grow important aspects of the business such as social media following and general brand awareness. It’s always a treat to see your work on a runway, especially when you have stunners like Erin Hannah and Karina White from Chadwick Models rocking your looks. If you could work with a famous designer who would it be? Ooh that’s an easy one: Yohji Yamamoto. I love his elegance, his class, his intelligence and creativity. He really is the Godfather of the “Dark Fashion” movement. He deports himself so beautifully in interviews and it would be such an honour to even speak with him, let alone work with him.
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PHOTOGRAPHE R: AARON MC POL IN MAKE UP - HAIR: JENNIFE R ELL IS STY L IST: AYME RIC FUTOL ASSISTANT STY L IST: LAURA GABRIELE MODELS: TRISTEN MAY, NEIL SHE RIFF WINGS: ADORA-JANE BONADEO, HOUSE OF WINGS 24
T HE
BLACK SWA N
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FASH ION N EW S T E L ST R A P E RTH FAS HI ON FE STI VAL 2018 2 0 T H A NNI VE RSARY
We spent such a nice week with my boss Aymeric Futol. Five days of pure delight and discovery but also disappointments… From the opening to the clothing we will unveil the truth and only the truth. The events started on the 7th of September 2018 and ended on the 14th of September 2018. First of all before starting to dig in the week schedules, I was a bit chocked with some other guests about the tag price for a ticket; for example between the opening and closing my boss and I spent around AUD900! Just for a corporate ticket including a drink and access to the River Room… For a normal ticket you will need to pay … How can you expect to have young people to join or to talk about your events?! The good thing is now they work closely with the City of Perth to improve this measure problem for the following years! So for the fashion fan, the fashion addicted you will also be able to very soon have access to the Perth Fashion Week with a bit more ease. Back to the runway! They where clearly lacking in the budget this year for the decoration etc, I although have to recognise that it was the best TPFF that I have ever attended… To compare to other years previously, the designers brought their best creations to show. Including various changes and inviting a select few brands from the east coast of Australia, such as; Romance Was Born, Dion Lee etc… Anyway now it is time for me to decrypt the runway for you and I will begin with the:
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Opening night: The night definitively was not my most favoured event. It was too expensive for what it turned out to be, certainly way too short for an opening night. « Wasn’t it supposed to be for the 20th anniversary? » But don’t forget when you are reading this I previously have explained the TPFF18 was restricted with the budget this year… Even with these circumstances ‘Romance Was Born and Dion Lee’, still provided the runway with a perfect show. The crowd was very elegant and sober, with a few very original looks. « In addition of that they did around 11 free events! »
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AJE: It was stunning to watch! When you think that most of the fabrics are hand -loomed & hand painted, it is even more incredible‌ Definitively a brand to follow, it’s nice to see some designers not only worrying about the cost but also to show some know how and craft! WA designers watch and learn!!!!
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International Runway: When Australia meets Asia with Malik Moestaram and 33 POETS creative Rebecca Paterson! It was «WOW» Malik showed us an incredible work of embroidery and transparency. You could easily imagin each of the garments directly heading into your wardrobe… As For Rebecca it was very earthy and tribal! With this amazing shapes and head pieces made of leaves… Definitively a bit weir to my sense but a beautiful type of weird.
Photo g ra p h er : Da mi e n Mu rer Mo de l : Va l e n tin Dickl er Ma ke u p : M a r i o n Koh li 40
New Generation: Beth Moseley Gabby Olivier Rina Qiuan Chen So Young Shin Tahnee Harris Only a few of the designs catched my eyes as it was bold and crazy but yet very fashionable! That was what I expected from the new generation to impress us and to be more daring‌
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Empire Rose: Rock Star Royalty Let’s get straight to the point… She was definitively the Queen of this week! The collection was wonderful, the runway was sassy, the music was makes us dance etc… The list is very long. I really appreciate as well that some her models was not even real models such as the stylist Luke Meakins and some others. Black, asian and caucasian were sharing the runway and I’m all about diversity in the fashion industry!
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Closing night: 20 YEARS OF FASHION The cherry on top of the cake! Even though it was too short but damn it was good, fresh and the real definition of fashion ‌ A fabulous DJ mix some fabulous designers and some of the models like Erin Hannah put the fire on the catwalk! Nicole Trufio and Nathan Fyfe were from the party, the little extra touch on the show. Elle Britz was the sunshine of the runway directly brought from Melbourne and she is as beautiful as she is sweet!!!
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She was born and raised in Perth as her parents. Her
We are basically two grown
grandparents were born on the Greek Island of Kastellorizo,
women who still play dress-ups.
a tiny island in the south eastern Mediterranean two
It doesn’t get much better than
kilometers off the coast of Turkey. Whilst it is very small it is
that! Whilst I love designer items,
beautiful, and Chrissy and her three sisters are very proud of
being ‘in fashion’ doesn’t mean it
their Kastellorizian heritage. Her other grandfather was born
has to cost a fortune. Some of my
in Alexandria – which funnily enough people always say to
best head to toe looks have cost
me they can see in her eyes… « She thinks its just her eye
less than $200 and a lot of my
makeup though! »
wardrobe is from Zara which has
What is your job?
fun affordable pieces.
I work with the West
What are your essentials
Australian Fashion Council.
for a perfect outfit?
FCWA is an incredible not
My best tip would be –
for profit organization
accessorize until you die!
which exists to represent,
You can accessorize a
champion and promote
paper bag if you want to!
the fashion and creative
Belt it, add some vintage
industries. It really doesn’t
gold earrings, a long chain
feel like a ‘job’ because
designer handbag, high
I love what I do and the
heels, a coat over the
fashion office is like one
shoulder – and voilà you
big family – the girls are
are ready for an opening
like a group of sisters
event! Perfect hair and
always rushing to change
makeup goes a long way
outfit and get to the next
too. I have a ‘glam squad’
event on time!
who I see without fail each
Why do you love fashion? I love fashion because it is a form of expression. I dress based on how I feel - if I’m in a bad mood I might wear something structured, dark or edgy. My girlfriend Karolina
week; Milena Milio Salon for hair and Melika Shahid Make Up Artist. They are both located in the same salon in Melville and both incredibly talented at what they do. You were part of the TPFF
calls it ‘mood dressing’! Fashion is a way to speak without
this year; it was a new challenge
having to say a word. It is art and it is beautiful.
for you; can you tell us a little
Who are your inspirations? My mother (Also named Chrissie) is a big inspiration for me. She just gets it! Whenever I have an event on we spend hours mixing and matching dresses with designer bags.
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about this new experience? TPFF was definitely a new challenge because I joined the company one week before the festival started. I have been
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organizing large scale events for many
based on their outfit, but you never know what is
years but fashion shows are a whole
truly going on inside.
different ball game! It is important to put yourself out of your comfort zone if you want grow, evolve and progress. Feeling uncomfortable is usually when you do
Why do you want to be part of new project like this? I was super excited to join the Fashion Council
your best work!
and Telstra Perth Fashion Festival as it is a new
Do you feel that you met new influential
should always try new things! I love networking
people during the TPFF?
and meeting new people and FCWA/TPFF is an
This year the 2018 Telstra Perth Fashion
incredible gateway for this.
Festival celebrated its 20th anniversary and we were lucky to host some incredible International and National ambassadors. Supermodel Nicole Trunfio from New York and Balinese princess / model Lindy Klim journied to Perth for the event. Both women were incredible, strong, powerful, beautiful but still kind, sweet and humble. No matter where you go or where you come from, be nice to everyone. You can easily make a judgement of someone
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creative space for me. Life is short and you
Do you want to open your own business? I have always been fairly ‘business conscious’, I opened a menswear store in Darwin when I was 22 years old! I didn’t get to keep it for very long and it was a brave move at that age (with dad yelling no!) But the lesson is to just keep running. Speed wins the game. Never give up, and no matter what people say about you or how many times you fail or f**k up, get up, put your red soles back on and RUN.
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