Issuu

K M

PREFACE

pag. 1

MACHINES

pag. 21 - 22 - 23

ETHICS

pag. 2

RESTRICTIONS

pag. 24 - 25

PRIMARK

pag. 3 - 4

GO BACK

pag. 26

INSPIRATION

pag. 5 - 6 - 7

TO DO

pag. 27

FAST FASHION RECYCLING

pag. 8 - 9 - 10

REFURBITCH

pag. 28

TRENDS

pag. 11

CORPORATE IDENTITY

pag. 29

NUMBERS

pag. 12

HOW WE WORK

pag. 30

IDEA

pag. 13

POINTS

pag. 31

MATERIALS

pag. 14 - 15 - 16

DESIGNS

pag. 32 - 33 - 34 - 35

CONCEPT

pag. 17

LABEL

pag. 36

WHAT KIND OF PRODUCTS

pag. 18

PROMOTION

pag. 37 - 38 - 39 - 40

NEXT-STEP

pag. 19

SHOP

pag. 41 - 42 - 43

FEEDBACK

pag. 20

EPILOGUE

pag. 44

In The Netherlands the average quantiy of cloths we have in our closet is 173 per person. Every year a person throws away 40 of those items. So a lot of waste. Recycling it self is very populair these days, but recycling clothing into new clothing is not populair at all, less then 1% of the materials is being recycled into new clothing. This 1% includes factories offcuts and after-use materials. When I saw these numbers I was highly motivated to design something to reduce mass-production. In this booklet you will experience how I formed my vision and the creation of a new designed service that could be used for recycling clothing into renew clothing. To accomplice this I made a fictive brand called Refurbitch. Refurbitch is a brand that is focused on making recycling populair and appealing to the future of our fashion economy. Refurbitch is a brand but it hopefully can become a movement were recycling is a big thing and massproduction is reduced.

Child Labour must not be forbidden

Working Hours are not excessive - Workers must be provided with at least 1 day off in every 7 day period or, where permitted by national law, 2 days off in every 14 day period. No Harsh or Inhumane Treatment -There must be no physical abuse or discipline, threat of physical abuse, sexual or other harassment, verbal abuse or other forms of intimidation including a hostile or offensive work environment. Environmental Responsibility - Suppliers must comply with all applicable local laws and regulations regarding the protection and preservation of the environment. This includes obtaining and maintaining all required environmental permits, approvals and registrations.

Source: https://www.primark.com/en/our-ethics/code-of-conduct

- There must be no recruitment or employment of child labour. - In any given country the minimum working age, as well as rules regarding the employment of a Young Worker will be defined by the conventions of the ILO or national/regional law, whichever affords greater protection to the individual. For clarity, Young Worker in this context refers to an individual below the legal working age, their 18th birthday. - Companies must have policies and programmes which prevent the recruitment and employment of child labour.

The inside of the store. You see that there are a lot of racks full of clothing

Textile recycling offers the following environmental benefits: Decreases landfill space requirements, bearing in mind that synthetic fiber products do not decompose and that natural fibers may release greenhouse gasses Avoided use of virgin fibers Reduced consumption of energy and water Pollution avoidance Lessened demand for dyes. Sources of Textiles for Recycling Textiles for recycling are generated from two primary sources. These sources include: 1. Post-consumer, including garments, vehicle upholstery, household items and others. 2. Pre-consumer, including scrap created as a by-product from yarn and fabric manufacture, as well as the post-industrial scrap textiles from other industries. The donation of old garments is supported by non-profit as well as many corporate programs, including those of Nike and Patagonia.

Source: https://www.thebalancesmb.com/the-basics-of-recycling-clothing-and-other-textiles-2877780

F A S T - F A S H I O N - R E C Y C L I N G

The Recycling Process For the basics of recycling, read my article, â€œHow Clothing Recycling Worksâ€?. For textiles to be recycled, there are fundamental differences between natural and synthetic fibers. For natural textiles: - The incoming unwearable material is sorted by type of material and color. Color sorting results in a fabric that does not need to be re-dyed. The color sorting means no re-dying is required, saving energy and avoiding pollutants. - Textiles are then pulled into fibers or shredded, sometimes introducing other fibers into the yarn. Materials are shredded or pulled into fibers. Depending on the end use of the yarn, other fibers may be incorporated. - The yarn is then cleaned and mixed through a carding process - Then the yarn is re-spun and ready for subsequent use in weaving or knitting. - Some fibers are not spun into yards, but are compressed for textile filling such as in mattresses. In the case of polyester-based textiles, garments are shredded and then granulated for processing into polyester chips. These are subsequently melted and used to create new fibers for use in new polyester fabrics.

9 Source: https://www.thebalancesmb.com/the-basics-of-recycling-clothing-and-other-textiles-2877780

F A S T - F A S H I O N - R E C Y C L I N G

More than 15 million tons of used textile waste is generated each year in the United States, and the amount has doubled over the last 20 years. In 2014, over 16 million tons of textile waste was generated, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Of this amount, 2.62 million tons were recycled, 3.14 million tons were combusted for energy recovery, and 10.46 million tons were sent to the landfill. An average American throws away approximately 36.2 kg of used clothing per person per year. On average, nationally, it costs cities $45 per ton to dispose of old clothing. Synthetic clothing may take hundreds of years to decompose. Only about 0.1% of recycled fiber collected by charities and take-back programs is recycled into new textile fiber. The average person buys 60 % more items of clothing every year and keeps them for about half as long as 15 years ago, generating a huge amount of waste.

“Trashy” Clothes Call it “trashion,” or waste-makes-taste, recycling all kinds of garbage into trendy new clothing, accessories and shoes is everywhere. Patagonia is a pioneer and has been making fleece jackets using polyester made out of recycled bottles for 25 years (with a collection heavily made up of recycled nylon, cotton, polyester, down, cashmere and wool). Future in fashion The future of fashion is re-thinking every touch-point in the cycle: from how our clothes are designed, made, cared for, experienced and disposed of. Every point in the process has been broken, and the fashion industry has been a huge force in destroying the planet. But the rejection of fast fashion is now happening fast, and a more “well” fashion market and mindset is being born. It’s one of the most impactful wellness trends we’ve ever seen.

Source: https://www.globalwellnesssummit.com/trendium/sustainable-trashy-clothing/

Trend: Trashion

Numbers Less than 1% of material used to produce clothing is recycled into new clothing. This includes recycling clothing after use, as well as the recycling of factory offcuts. For recycling after-use clothing only, experts and reports suggest that the figure could be below 0.1%. This represents an economic value loss of over $500 billion per year.

Less then 1% of material is recycled into new clothing.

Cotton requires an estimated 20.000 litres per kilogram of cotton fabric. An industry standard pair of jeans uses up to 8.000 litres of water to make (thatâ€™s close to 54 full bathtubs). After agriculture, textile dyeing is the second largest polluter of fresh water globally, even though the world is simultaneously facing freshwater scarcity.

20.000 liter per kg cotton.

In The Netherlands the average of items that people have in there closets is 173 items. 40 items are thrown in the trash every year per person. Did you know that in The Netherlands 2.5 million items are bieng destoryed.

40 items are thown away evry year p.p. 2.5 million bieng destroyed

Source: https://mudjeans.eu/about-impact-of-fashion/

In the last 15 years, clothing production and consumption has doubled and the average consumer purchases 60% more clothing.

After-use recycling could be below 0.1%

Different shapes with different clothings If you send in your old clothing, you can pick out of 4 shapes of products. The shapes are designed on the different kinds of fabric and type of clothing. T-shirt - Samll product - Strenght depents on the fabric Sweater - Medium product - Strong - fabric Jeans - Medium product - Strong More clothing - Bigger product - made of different fabrics combinations.

Cotton Cotton, the most widely used natural fiber for clothing, grows in a capsule around the seeds of cotton plants. A single fiber is an elongated cell that has a flat, twisted, hollow structure. It has a medium-good elasticity, but with a lower resilience and a tendency to wrinkle. The perception on the skin is comfortable and soft, has a good absorbency and conducts heat well. Despite this, after long periods of use and prolonged exposure to the sun, it weakens. Cotton is widely used in numerous textile products and is commonly used to produce garments such as sweaters, towels, bathrobes, etc. Linen Linen, one of the most expensive natural fibers, is produced from the flax plant. It is produced with a high use of manual labor, and is therefore produced in small quantities. However the linen fabric is appreciated for its exceptional freshness in the case of hot temperatures. It is known to be the strongest plant fiber. In spite of this, it has a low elasticity, and therefore it easily ripples. It is a relatively smooth fabric, but becomes softer after washing, and is highly absorbent. It is a good conductor of heat and keeps it fresh and bright during the time, it is therefore characterized by a very durable resistance. In the clothing field it is used for the production of clothes, dresses, skirts, shirts, etc. Very often it is used as a blend with cotton to make it softer to the touch and pleasant to wear.

Source: https://medium.com/@gerterdmann/most-common-fabrics-that-are-used-in-clothing-af6f53ad2103

Market share of main fibers

Wool The wool fiber grows from sheepskin and is a relatively coarse and curled fiber with scales on the surface. It is composed of proteins. The appearance of the fiber varies depending on the breed of the sheep. Finer, softer and warmer fibers tend to have more numerous and regular scales. It generally has a curled appearance, and as a fabric it is very elastic, and another feature that could be advantageous is that it is resistant to static electricity. In clothing it is used for the production of jackets, dresses, trousers, sweaters, hats, etc. It is a purely winter fabric, comfortable and pleasant to wear, which keeps the body warm. Nylon In nylon, the fiber that forms the substance is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85% of the amide bonds are attached directly to two aromatic nuclei. There are different forms of nylon. Each depends on chemical synthesis. As a fabric it is very resistant, has a high elongation and elasticity, therefore very strong and durable. It has the ability to be very bright, semi-glossy or opaque. In the clothing field it is used for the production of socks, tights, leggings, etc. Polyester In producing polyester fibers, the basic elements of carbon, oxygen and hydrogen are polymerized. It has good strength, but nevertheless it is not a very absorbent fabric. In clothing it is a fabric most used for knitwear, shirts, trousers, jackets, hats, etc.

15 Source: https://medium.com/@gerterdmann/most-common-fabrics-that-are-used-in-clothing-af6f53ad2103

W H I C H - M AT E R I A L S - A R E - W E - U S I N G

Pants: Linen (for warmer weather), denim, flannel, and wool Shirts and blouses: Cotton voile, rayon challis, double gauze, knit, silk, chambray, cotton lawn, linen, and flannel (for less drapey shirts and blouses) Skirts: Cotton lawn, rayon challis, denim, knit, and linen Dresses: Cotton voile, cotton lawn, rayon challis, double gauze, knit, silk, satin, linen, and wool (for colder weather)

Think about your own closet, how many items do you have in there that you never wear anymore? In The Netherlands the average of items we have in our closet is 173 per person. 30% of these items we are not wearing anymore for at least a year. Every year a person throws away 40 of those items. So a lot of waste. Recycling it self is very populair these days, but recycling clothing into renew clothing is not populair at all, less then 1% of the materials is being recycled into new clothing. This 1% includes factories offcuts and after-use materials. I want to focus on the after use material. We, the western world, have so much clothing that we don’t use any more. What if we can give those clothings a new life in a new product. Using your own old t-shirt, sweater or jeans to recycle into a functional and useful product. By using your own “waste”, most of the people don’t even realize it is waste, we can start building on a new way of using fast-fashion into our daily life. I want to start a service where you can bring your old clothes and let them be recycled into new clothing. The service designs new products made of old clothes. You bring something to get something. It could become a place that can be used in our daily lives. By providing a service that give clothes a new life, we can maybe reduce mass production and change comstumer awareness.

W H A T - K I N D - O F - P R O D U C T S

RECYCLE POINT

OUDE R

PRIMARK

The service can be placed in the Primark as a refurbish corner. I also think it can be a self standing shop. A shop that is fully focused on the making of refurbished and recycled products. It can be a fashion brand. Refurbitch

David: I had a talk with David and it turned out that I should mainly focus on what the clothes will look like, which machines you need to make those clothing. With this try to design “shop” / “shop in shop” on the basis of the machines. Isaac: I am convinced that you can continue working with this concept at home and perhaps even make some physical samples. Visualizations can also work to depict your concept. Marina: Good job, try to be focused on how you are communicating your vision. Find ways to do this properly and clear. Next steps: I think focusing on designing the clothing is the way I need to go. But designing it from the machines. What kind of machines can I use in a small atelier? From there design the clothing.

This is a method that is used to print on fabrics. A CNC-plotter is used to cut out a design. After that a heatpress is used for pressing the design on the fabric. A plotter and a heatpress are not the biggest machines so I think this is a good size which fits in the shop.

Explenation of the process

Embroidering machine A imbrodery machine is used by embroider designs on fabrics. It is a CNC so you can design in a computer and let it embroider by it self. The machine is not bigger that a plotter so it can fit in a shop. This machine is also used is other stores to personalize clothing.

Embroidering machine

Example

Source: https://www.magicprint.nl/flex-print-druk/

Flex and Flock

Sewing machine This machine is used for manufacturing clothing. It is the most used machine in the fashion industry. For making clothing you need this machine. Lock machine This machine is used for finishing of clothing. This machine is finishing the end of fabrics so it canâ€™t get loose anymore.

Sewing machine

Lock machine

Cleaning There are going to be restrictions for handing in cloths. The clothes needs to be washed and clean. When someone is handing in the clothes they needed to be checked. Checked if the fabrics are useful for making new products and if they are clean. There need to be a place to check the clothing and store the fabrics. Steaming I think at the end of the process there needs be a steaming machine to clean the clothing. How I see this in the shop is still a question but I will do more research to this. There are some machines that can do this in bigger scale already.

Steaming closet Example

Research I did research for the restrictions of “ Leger des Heils” A dutch charity. In principe mag ALLE textiel bij ons in de container. Denk hierbij aan: - Kleding - Huishoudelijk textiel, zoals handdoeken, theedoeken, washandjes, etc. - Schoenen (per paar gebonden) - Sokken (per paar) - Accessoires, zoals hoeden, riemen, tassen, etc. - Zachte knuffels Vieze kleding gaat de oven in Het Leger des Heils zamelt in voor het goede doel, in dit geval voor mensen die anders geen kleding hebben. Maar huisafval besmet alles in een kledingcontainer. De besmette kleding kan niet meer worden gebruikt en verdwijnt in de verbrandingsoven. ”Niet alleen ontzettend jammer van de ingezamelde kleding maar ook omdat het voor ons een inkomstenbron is. Vroeger verdienden we met het inzamelen van kleding geld. Als er geen verandering komt, dan gaat voor ons het licht uit.” In gemeenten met ondergrondse kledingcontainers, zoals Utrecht wordt in veel gevallen meer afval bij de kleding gestort. In gemeenten met bovengrondse containers wordt er minder afval bij de kleding gestort. Een oplossing zou zijn om ondergrondse containers te vervangen voor deze duidelijk herkenbare bovengrondse varianten.

These restrictions are for mass scale recycling. They want to have as much they can have. There are big containers to depose the clothing and fabrics in. The bad side of this is that people also depose dirty clothing, food and glass into the container. For my project it is on a smaller scale so I want to have a place in the store were the clothings can be checked on the requirements. Restrictions - Clothing needs to be washed and cleaned. - All the clothing is being checked if it is useful for our designs. - We will take in T-shirts, Sweaters, Hoodies, Denim - Leather is being checked if it is useful. - No household textiles, such as towels, tea towels, washcloths, etc.

In these times I am losing my motivation and structure for the project. I need to go back to the start. What do I like about the project. What are my starting points to build a brand that can be real? Points:

Against mass production.

Recycling of used fabrics in to new clothing.

Making recycling populair.

Create a local place were you get a personal band with. By this maybe the motivation to recycle will be bigger.

How am I going to communicate these points? 1. A video of the facts. Those facts are really shocking so I think it is good to let them see.

Infographic, showing how the process of small scale recycling works.

Instagram, by creating slick designs that will get attention of the target group.

A slogan/graphic design that will relate to the target group.

1. Corporate identity - First think of witch colors fit within the identity. 2. Design the clothing - Slick design - Target group needs to like it so they will give the brand attention and they will see the rest of the brand. 3. Info-graphic - What am I going to show? - Clear - 2 shirts - hand in - points - sewing - 2=1

4. Slogan - Local - Typographic - Personal 5. Graphic design - Design - Shape

R E F U R B I T C H A

C O R P O R A T E - I D E N T I T Y

We are Refurbitch, A recycle service that will bring your old clothes to life. In Holland the average of items we have in our closet is 173 per person. Every year a person throws away 40 of those items. In total that is a lot of waste. We as Refurbitch want to have those 40 items to create new designs. Using your fabrics you never wear anymore we can create a new movement. A movement where we can reduce the pollution of fast-fashion and create awareness for recycling. We are Refurbitch Are you?

2. For these clothes you get points in return.

1. Bring your old clothes to the store. 1

POINTS

3. With these clothes we make new designs.

4. With the points you can buy a new design. 1

POINTS

5. Go home with your new-old cloth and be a Refurbitch

At Refurbitch we work with a point system. We want to give the feeling you are trade your old clothes. By bringing your old clothes you get points. From these points you can buy new clothes at Refurbitch. The value of a product is connected to points by this the value of a product isn’t linked to money. We think that giving value to products with points people have more a feeling of trade their clothes for new ones. By this we hope people become aware of doing the right thing by buying clothes at Refurbitch. How to you get the points? If you hand in your clothes at Refurbitch you get points back. For every 500g you get 2 points. - 1 point is € 2,50 - 2 points is € 5,00 - etc. By giving € 5,00 we can make our products for higher prices and better quality. You can hand in the points you have collected by buying a new product. Example: The product is 12 points. You handed in 500g so you have 2 points. Then the product is 10 points total. Then you have to pay € 25,00 for the remaining points.

Jacket The jacket is made from 3 old clothes and buttons.

Jacket The jacket is made from 2 old clothes.

Pants The pants is made from 2 old clothes.

35 Pants The pants is made from 2 old clothes.

T Y

Thank you so much buying a new jacket by Refurbitch. We are really grateful and we hope you will enjoy you jacket.

R E F U R B I T C H

Welkom to the movement!

O L D - C L O T H E S

12.points R E S T R I C T I O N S Material

90% Polyesther 10% Cotton

Do not bleach

I don’t know what wil happen

Do not wash

Do not iron

Do not dry clean

Line dry

I don’t know what will happen

I don’t know what wil happen

It will not work. The reflection will get sticky

If it’s wet, just let it dry on the line.

Label This label is placed on every item. On this label there are the old clothes for making people aware that they are doing the good thing by recycle old clothing. There are washing restrictions on it and the points value of the product.

Instagram I am using Instagram as my promotion platform. Instagram is the best platform to let the brand be appealing for the target group. The target group is like myself the future of the economy. With future I mean almost done studying or starter. If I can appeal to this group Refurbitch hopefully can become a movement instead of only a fashion brand. Visit us: @THE_REFURBITCH

A recycle service that will bring your old clothes to life. Every year a person throws away 40 of those items. We as Refurbitch want to have those 40 items to create new designs. Creating a movement where we can reduce the pollution of fast-fashion and create awareness for recycling.

We are Refurbitch

R E F U R B I T C H A

Are you?

Instagram Instagram is a good platform to let the target group see how we work. I made a infographic to make clear how Refurbitch works. Visit us: @THE_REFURBITCH

3. With these clothes we make new designs.

1. Bring your old clothes to the store.

4. With the points you can buy a new design.

H O W - W E - W O R K 2. For these clothes you get points in return.

POINTS

5. Go home with your new-old cloth and be a Refurbitch S

POINTS

Instagram I also made a post were you see a process of a design. A drawing and the old clothing to show were the product started. Visit us: @THE_REFURBITCH

OLD CLOTHES These are the old clothes used in the new design on the 2nd slide.

N E W - D E S I G N

Sketches I started with design a interieur of the shop. I started with that but I changed my focus after the feedback session with Isaac. I started to focus on the branding of Refurbitch. I started with researching witch machines I need to create clothing so I first written those machine down in my dummy. After that I made some layout design sketches. When I had the one I thought was the best I made it in Sketch Up.

First design This was my first design. A island in the middle so the costumer can see what is happening during the process. After a talk with Thara, she did interior design before WDKA so she had some good feedback, I changes my design to a more service place instead of a studio. Still open so the costumer can see the process.

New design The new design was more a service point of view. You can hand in you clothes but you can also see the process. I think that it is really importend to be open to costumer because we are focused on recycling and seeing how it is made.

The project ended different then expected. Working from home is a totally different then I was used to. Normally we work in school and you work around your fellow students. This really encourage the pace you work in. If you are surrounded by people you can discus your choices. This really helps during the process. Last weeks was adapting to the circumstances. Working from home was harder for me then expected. The hardest thing was that I lost motivation for the project. Keeping your focus on what you like instead on what is not working for you. At a point I went back to the reason why I am doing this. That really helped finding focus again. The project turned out well. I am happy with the result. After the choice to create a brand that is a new recycle service I really had fun again. It turned out how I wanted it to be.

K B