PRAGUE GREEN CITY GUIDE The first sustainable travel guide to Prague Edition 1 2016
By Jennifer Day & A neta Hebrovรก
Chapter 3: Eat & Drink Introduction Before we begin
5 6
Chapter 1: Explore
... T
Must Sees Public transport Biking basics Bike tours & rental Bike rental Bike sharing Former parking lots Summer hangouts Multifunctional spaces Industrial museums Urban gardens Parks & gardens Outdoor recreation National parks & protected natural areas Farms & countryside getaways Green tour operators Waste & recycling
10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 30 32 36 38 40 42 45 46
'
''
Conscious cafes Conscious teahouses The best ice cream in town Beer, wine & (non-smoking) nightlife
Chapter 4: Shop Qrganic & specialty food shops Farmer's market Zero waste shops Diy shops Conscious local brands Sustainable & fair trade fashion
•••
Vintage & second hand Health & beauty
Chapter 5: Get lnvolved Other cool ngos and initiatives
Chapter 2: Sleep Eco-friendly hotels and hostels Camping
''
Raw restaurants & cafes Vegan restaurants & cafes Vegetarian restaurants & cafes Veg-friendly restaurants & cafes Good to know when eating out
50 53
Green events Film festivals Coworking spaces & international communities
Chapter 3: Eat & Drink
ntroduction
5 6
:efore we begin
:hapter 1: Explore
lust Sees
ublíc transport
iking basics ke tours & renta! ke renta! ke sharing
,rmer parking lots
Immer hangouts
~ltifunctional spaces
fostrial museums
ban gardens
rks & gardens t door recreation
tional parks & protected natural areas
ms & countryside getaways
:en tou r opera tors
ste & recycl ing
IO
12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 30 32 36 38 40 42 45 46
,apter 2: Sleep
,-friendly hotels and hostels 1ping
'' '' '
Vegan restaurants & cafes
56 60
Vegetaria~ restau rants & cafes
64
Veg-friendly restaurants & cafes
70 73 74 76 78 80
Raw restaurants & cafes
Good to know when eating out Conscious cafes Conscious teahouses The best ice cream in town Beer, wine & (non-smoking) nightlife
Chapter 4: Shop Organic & specialty food shops
•• •
Farmer's market
Zero waste shops
Diy shops Conscious local brands Sustainable & fair trade fashion Vintage & second hand Health & beauty
Chapter 5: Get lnvolved Other cool ngos and initiatives Green events
50 53
86 91 92 93 94 113 118 124
Film festivals Coworking spaces & international communities
128 130 131 132
4
Hi and welcome to Prague's first Green City Guide! This book is the fruit of two years spent taste-testing a greener-and lesser known-side of the city by foot. bike and tram. And no, we don't mean absinthe. though iĹĽs also green and might change the way you look at things. We've made it our full-time job to hand-pick and personally interview the best places for our fellow eco-freaks to eat, drink. sleep, shop and explore in Prague. From parks, farms, community gardens and revived urban spaces to organic and vegetarian restaurants, eco-friendly hostels, bike rental shops and local design boutiques.
we've written a guide to F don't think iĹĽs ever been So whether you're vegan, or flexita rian, prefer to t1 tram or Tesla, this book i alternatives for consciou: consumers from all walki prepared: the coming pa: beautiful things that alsc just that little bit better. not into that, we 're afrai to the wrong place. For t thanks for joining us on adventure!
Aneta & Jenny
5
Hi and welcome to Prague's first Green City Guide! This book is the fruit of two years spent
we've written a guide to Prague as we iĹĽs
taste-testing a greener-and lesser
don't think
known-side of the city by foot, bike and
So whether you're vegan, vegetarian
ever been written before.
tram. And no, we don't mean absinthe,
or flexitarian, prefer to travel by bike,
though iĹĽs also green an~ might change the way you look at things. We've made
alternatives for conscious travellers and
tram or Tesla, this book is here to show
it our full-time job to hand-pick and personally interview the best places for
consumers from all walks of life. But be
our fellow eco-freaks to eat, drink, sleep, shop and explore in Prague. From parks,
beautiful things that also make the world
farms, community gardens and revived urban spaces to organic and vegetarian
not into that, we're afraid you've come to the wrong place. For the rest of you,
restaurants, eco-friendly hostels, bike
thanks for joining us on our crazy green adventure!
renta I shops and local design bouliques,
prepared: the coming pages are full of just that little bit better. So if you're
Aneta & Jenny
A FEW IMPORTANT CZECH PHRASES AND WORDS
BEFORE WE BEGIN
6
Our tags
C
Our tags are here to make it easier for you to find what you're looking for. We hope you agree most of them are self-explanatory. You·11 also see that they provide a rough
Helio (forma!)
Dobrý den (do-bree den)
guideli ne of what we mean by "green", which we think is a combination of social ,
Hi/bye (informal)
environmental and cultural factors.
Goodbye (formal)
Ahoj (a-hoy) Na shledanou (na-skled-a-no)
Thank you
Děkuji (dye-ku-yee)
Please
Prosím (proh-seem)
outdoorseating nightlife
100%vegan
organicoptions
ecopackaging
kidfriendly
fairtradeoptions
rentals repairs
historicalsignificance
veganfriendly
recycledmaterials
sharingeconomy
Czechmadeproducts•
rawfriendly
zerowaste
upcycledmaterials
Czechtradition
culture
Yes
Ano (ah-no)
No
Ne (neh} Nemluvím česky (ne-mlu-veem che-skee)
I don't speak Czech
EUmadeproducts
Do you speak English? • Refers mai nly to products ma nufac tured i n lhe Czech Republic (or should we say.
I don't understand
Mluvíte anglicky? (mloo-vee-te an-glits-kee?) Nerozumím (ne-roz-o-meem)
Czechia!). i ncluding design objecl s. fashio n and packaged food/dri nk .
Jedno pivo prosím (yed-no pee-vo proh-seem)
Quotes from the owners
One beer please
Ail the quotes in this book are from our persona! interviews with business owner s.
A glass of wine please
Skleničku vína prosím (sklen-ich-koo vee-na !
We thought it was imporlanl to include them because at the end of the day we think
Cheers!
Na zdraví! (na zdra-vee)
sustainability is about transparency, and there's no better way to gel answers than
The bili please
Účet prosím (oo-chet proh-seem)
Doyou have?
Máte (mah-te)
Organic
Bio (bee-o) Vejce z volného chovu (vey-tse z vol-ne-ho kh
from the horse's mouth.
Free range eggs
Special offers
Vegan
Keep an eye out for our "speciaJ offer" icon. Many of the
Vegetarian
Veganský (veh-gan -skee) Vegetarianský (veh-geh-tar-eh-an-skee)
businesses in this guide have kindly offered discounts
Gluten-free
Bezlepkový (bez-lep-ko-vee)
and bonuses for anyone who comes in with a printed or
Sugar-free
Bez cukr u (bez tsu-kroo)
digital copy of Prague Green City Guide, as a reward for your conscious choices. Note that these discounts are
', ,j,
o
' , i __.; . ' . '
only val id until 31.12.2017!
Fruit
Ovoce (o-vo-tseh)
Vegetables
Zelenina (ze-le-ni-na) Voda z kohoutku (vo-da z ko-hot-koo)
Tap water Garden
Zahrada (zah-rad-ah)
Shop
Obchod (ob-khod) Otevírací hodiny (o-tev-ee-ra-cee hod-i-net
Content changes Places close, opening hours change, new offerings arise. Before visiting a spot iťs never a bad idea to check their websit e for up-to-date information.
Opening hours How much does it cost?
Kolik to stojí? (ko -leek to sto-yee)
BEFORE WE BEGIN
A FEW IMPORTANT CZECH PHRASES AND WORDS
:re to make it easier for you to find what you·re looking for. We hope of them are self-explanatory. You'II also see that they provide a rough
at we mean by "green", which we think is a combination of social, and cultural factors.
100%vegan
lcoptions
rentals
ince
kidfriendly
fairtradeoptions repairs
veganfriendly
recycledmaterials
sharingeconomy
Czechmadeproducts•
rawfriendly
zerowaste
upcycledmaterial
cuiiure
Czechtradition
EUmadeproducts
Helio (forma!)
Dobrý den (do-bree den)
Hi/bye (informal)
Ahoj (a-hoy)
Goodbye (formaJ)
Na shledanou (na-skled-a-no)
Thank you
Děkuji (dye-ku-yee)
Please
Prosím (proh-seem)
Ves
Ano (ah-no)
No
Ne(neh)
I don't speak Czech
Nemluvím
česky
(ne-mlu-veem che-skee)
Do you speak English?
M /u víte anglicky? (mloo-vee-te an-glits-kee?)
I don't understand
Nerozumím (ne-roz-o-meem)
One beer please
Jedno pivo prosím (yed-no pee-vo proh-seem)
A glass of wine please
Skleniéku vína prosím (sklen-ich-koo vee-na proh-seem)
1s important to include them because at the end of the day we think
Cheers!
Na zdraví! (na zdra-vee)
about transparency, and there's no better way to get answers than mouth.
The bili please
Účet prosím (oo-chet proh-seem)
Do you have?
Máte (mah-te)
Organic
Bio (bee-o)
to product s manufactu red in the Czech Republic (or shou ld we say, ling design objccts. fashion and packagcd food/drin k.
1m the owners this book are from our persona! interviews with business owners.
ers
or our "speciaJ offer" icon. Many of the
; guide have kindly offered discounts
lllyone who comes in with a printed or
, -; c- ,-, ,'c.,
~
~
-
<\
lgue Green City Guide, as a reward for
1oices. Note that these discounts are
.12.2017!
Free range eggs
Vejce z volného chovu (vey-tse z vol-ne-ho kho-voo)
Vegan
Veganský (veh-gan-skee)
Vegetarian
Vegetarianský (veh-geh-tar-eh-an-skee)
Gluten-free
Bezlepkový (bez-lep-ko-vee)
Sugar-free
Bez cukru (bez tsu-kroo)
Fruit
Ovoce (o-vo-tseh)
Vegetables
Zelenina (ze-Le-ni-na)
Tap water
Voda z kohoutku (vo-da z ko-hot-koo)
Garden
Zahrada (zah-rad-ah)
anges
ing hours change, new offerings arise. Before visiting a spot iťs ) check their website for up-to-date information.
Shop
Obchod (ob-khod)
Opening hours
Otevírací hodiny (o-tev-ee-ra-cee hod-i-nee)
How much does it cost?
Kolik to stojí? (ko-leek to sto-yee)
7
C'
Green or not, a trip to Prague simply wouldn't be complete without a sites. Locals tend to avoid them dueto crowds, but l eťs be honest. \~ guides if we didn ' t tel1 you to go there. \Cl)' eJr
11
lib~ t
i 1 th 1m,rn ne or I <- 1t n ht to skip the hordes n<l l. t
romantic atmosphere.
2 Hopping on publictransport (p. 12) is by far the fastest way to get aroun/ breath of fresh air-and a free workout- bikingand hiking {p. i1 are also the city. I ligh quality bike renta I and tours lP- 16) are available, or if you' adventurous you can test out Prague's slowly blossoming bike sharing (
22 Revitalized Urban Spaces From multifunctional spaces {p. 26), summer hangouts {p. 2 li and un
sporting (p. 28) locales to industrial museums (p. 30) and urban garc in recent years, several forrner parking lots, factories and squats arov started to corne back to life. The emerging vibe is decidedly frugal, sl a 'lil bit hipste r. Whať s not to love?
36 N
..
Need a break from the city? Check out one of Prague·s 12 nature pa~ countless gardens (p. 36), used by locals for all sorts of activities, fr(
recreation (p. 38) and picnics to, yes, drinking beer. ln the summer ~ one of the nearby lakes and natural swimming spots (p. 3Hi, Or if yQ to escape, a short hop on public transport will take you to a nurnber, countryside getaways, national parks (p. 421 or protected natural a,
As you explore the city you·11 inevitably eat, drink or buy something some packaging. But no worries, Prague i s a recycling- friendly city. to avoid waste (p. 46} by trading disposable for reusable packaging.
9
O Mu· Green or not, a trip to Prague simply wouldn't be complete without a visit to these sites. Locals tend to avoid thern dueto crowds, but leťs be honest, we'd be bad tour guides if we didn't tel1 you to go there. TIP· I 1,
,1.
s
ll
r•
li I·
si
o skip thc hordc$ and <. tch the most romantic atmo,phcrc.
,- Hopping on public transport (p. 12) is by far the fastest way to get around Prague, bul for a breath of fresh air-and a free workout- biking and hiking (p. 14) are also great ways to see the city. High quality bike rental and tours (p. ló} are available, or if you're feeling more adventurous you can test out Prague's slowly blossoming bike sharing (p. 20.1 scene.
22 Revitalized Urban Spaces From multifunctional spaces (p. 26), summer haogouts (p. 24) and uncooventional sporting (p. 28) locales to industrial museums (p. 30) and urban gardeos (p. 12),
in recent years, several former parking lots, factories and squats around town have started to comeback to life. The emerging vibe is decidedly frugal , shabby chic and a 'lil bil hipster. Whaťs not to love?
... Need a break from the city? Check out one of Prague's 12 nature parks IP- Jo) and countless gardeos (p. 361 , used by locals for all sorts of activities, from outdoor recreatioo (p. 18} and picnics to, yes, drinking beer. ln the summer months, dip into
one of the nearby lakes and natural swimming spots tp. 38). Or if you'd really like to escape, a short hop on public transport will take you to a number of farms and couotryside getaways, national parks (p. 42) or protected natural areas lp. 40).
As you explore the city you'll inevitably eat, drink or buy something that involves some packaging. But no worries. Prague is a recycling- friendly city. Or better yet: try to a\-oid waste (p 461 by trading disposable for reusable packaging.
10
MUST SEES
MUST SEES
EXPLORE (T HE GRE Etl WAV
EXPLORE lTHE GREE~ WAYI
Prague Castle
Charles Bridge
The biggest castle complex in the world according to the Guinness Book of World
Built in 1357, the famous stone bridge spans the river between Lesser
Records, Prague Castle's near-70,000 m' area is actually a collection of buildings.
Town and Old Town , offering pretty gobsmacking views over the Vltava and
Most famous among them is the soaring gothic-style St. Vitus Cathedral, founded
up to the Prague Castle. lťs named after Charles IV, the 11th King of Bohemia
in 1344 and completed over a 600 year period. Hradčany Square, the area in
and Holy Roman Emperor for a time. However, vegans beware: the Institute
front of the castle, offers great views over the city. Note that the gates to the
of Chemical Technology in Prague confirmed that eggs were added to
castle complex close at 10pm, so get there around 9pm for a calm, crowd-free
the bridge's mortar to strengthen its construction. For a greener perspective:
evening stroll. For a greener perspective: Check out the Garden on the Ramparts
Head to the neighboring Kampa Park for a view framed in green.
or the Deer Moat for more secluded but equally stunning natural scenery.
Old Town Square
While it Jooks straight out of a fairytale, iťs actually the place where th
Prague used to congregate, trade and Jive. Today, a visit to Old Town Se
an exercise in dodging pub crawls and selfie sticks, but iťs still absolut,
Step inside the serene interior of the old Týn church, check out the hou the astronomical clock (the only functioning clock of its type in the wo1
in 1410) and round it off with a view from the top of the Old Town Hall.
perspective: Skip the tourist shops on the main drag and step instead c street for more authentic souvenirs-get inspired in our "shop" chapter
MUST SEES LORE TH
MUST SEES
REEN WAYI
11
EXPLORE (TIIE GREH WAYI
Charles Bridge 1tle complex in the world Guinness Book of World Castle's near-70,000 m' a collection of buildings.
Built in 1357, the famous stone bridge spans Lhe river bclween Lesser Town and Old Town, offering pretly gobsmacking views over the Vltava and
ong them is the soaring
up to Lhe Prague Castle. lt's named after
~itus Cathedral, founded
Charles IV, the l llh King of Bohemia
pleted over a 600 year
and Holy Roman Emperor for a tirne.
Old Town Sguare
y Square, the area in
However, vegans beware: Lhe Insti tute
le, offers great views
of Chemical Technology in Prague
White it looks straight out of a fairytale, iťs actually the place where the residents of
te that the gates to the
confirmed that eggs were added to
Prague used to congregate, trade and live. Today, a visit to Old Town Square can be
lose at 10pm, so get
the bridge·s mortar to strengthen its
an cxercise in dodging pub crawls and selfie sticks, but iť s still absolutely a must see.
for a calm, crowd-free
construction. For a grcener perspcctive:
Step inside the serene interior of the old Týn church, check out the hourly display of
r a greener perspective:
Head to the neighboring Kampa Park for
the astronomical clock (the only functioning clock of its type in the world, installed
rden on the Ramparts
a view framed in green.
in 1410) and round it off with a view from the top of the Old Town Hall. For a greener
for more secluded bul natural scenery.
perspecthe: Skip the tourist shops on the main drag and step instead onto a side-
street for more authentic souvenirs- get inspired in our "shop" chapter (p. 84).
12
GETTING AROUND : PUBLIC TRANSPORT EXPLORE ClHL GREEN WAYl
CZK24
www.idos.cz
Cost of a 30 minute ticket, val id for
Website to search schedules for
all trams. metros, busses, ferries and
interregionaJ and international trai ns
funiculars. ThaĹĽs less than a Euro.
and busses.
www.dpp.cz
Escalators
Website of Prague's publ ic transport
Be warned: They're steep, Jong and fast. For
system, where you can find practica l info
a good workout, walk left, or if you'd rather
and pian your route.
stand, make sure to stay right.
5-15 minutes
Note: lf you must drive ...
Average t ime it should take to get you
Electric Park rents electric cars, including
anywhere in the city center by public
the Tesla Model S (\vw,,.LlcctricpJrk.czl.
transport (according to our calculations).
For taxis, try an "eco-tax i" from Green Prague, bookable by phone or online (www.grccn-pragu~.cz 1cJ11, or
Yellow
check out the taxi apps from Uber (www.uh~¡r.convcn-C Zkit1c~. rraguc) or
Color of the ticket and validator ma-
Liftago (\\ww.litl.1~0.cor1J. as there is
chines. Nole: Ticket machines are located
some chance of getti ng overcharged . :(
in all metro stations and some tram stops-and most take only coins.
Kiosks, newsstands and tourist information centers Other places to buy tickets if there's no machine nearby.
GETTING AROUNO: PUBLIC TRANSPORT OR~
(1
M G
EN IVAY>
www.idos.cz
> minute
ticke t, valid for
etros, busses, ferries and rhaťs less than a Euro.
~p.cz ragu ťs public transport
·e you can find practical info r route.
utes
it should take to get you
he city center by public
ording to our calculations).
Website to search schedules for interregionaJ and international trains and busses,
Escalators Be wamed: They're steep, long and fast. For a good workout, walk left, or if you'd rather stand, make sure to stay right.
Note: lf you must drive ... Electric Park rents electric cars, including the Tesla Model S (M•·,,.1ch.::dricparl...Lz). For taxis, try an "eco-taxi" from Green Prague, bookable by phone or online ,,,,,,w.grLen-praguc~zicn), or check out the taxi apps from Uber
:ket and validator ma-
'icket machines are located tions and some tram t take only coins.
INSstands and ormation centers buy tickets if therťs no
1www.uhcr.com,en-CZ 1litics/pf1,!.(uc1 or Liftago Jwv,w hr a„o.L,lmi, as there is some chance of getting overcharged. :(
136
Thanks to Ali businesses. organizations and i nitiatives listed in this book for your cooperation and support. Our friends and family for your encouragement, ideas, advice and proofreading. Our readers for helping to make Prague greener!
Sale, distribution and orders Please see www.greencityguide.cz. Please take care of your book, share it, pass it on and make it last! Š Ali rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part
without permission is strictly prohibited. Publ ished in Prague, December 2016. ISBN:978-80-270-0831-5
/J, @ FSC
?EFC