Check it out! New Ominus Dromida™ Quad
RC Airplanes | Gliders | Helicopters
NOVEMBER 2014
We Test REPORTS
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China Aviation Museum Tx Travel Volumes Fixing Fiberglass Sailplane Repair Jeti Profi Box
DHC-2 Beaver 30cc ARF USA & CANADA $6.49
RC-SF.COM
TABLE OF CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS
LEARN THE SIMPLE AND EASY STEPS TO REPAIRING FIBERGLASS COWLS.
PG 48
10 LEADING EDGE 14 HOT PRODUCTS 96 AD INDEX 97 MYSTERY PLANE EVENT
REPORT
HOW TO
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12 O’CLOCK HIGH SEE ALL THE WARBIRDS THAT RALLIED AT PARDISE FIELD, FL. By Gary Rosier
CHINA AIR MUSEUM WE TAKE YOU INSIDE CHINA’S FAMOUS AVIATION MUSEUM. By Meng Zhe
REPAIRING FIBERLASS GET A SIMPLE STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE FOR FIXING COWLS. By Tom Wolf
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COMPOSITE WING REPAIR SAVE YOURSELF A TON OF MONEY BY REPAIRING THOSE BROKEN WINGS. By Fred Thijssen
IT’S 12 O’CLOCH HIGH COVERAGE YOU WON’T GET ANYWHERE ELSE.
PG 30
PG 68
3-VIEW
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PILATUS PC6 PORTER
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RC SPORT FLYER . NOVEMBER 2014
SEE SUPERB 3-VIEWS OF AN AVIATION ICON. By Hans-Jürgen Fischer twitter.com/rcsportflyer
NOVEMBER 2014
BUILD
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HACKER A50 BRUSHLESS MOTOR ROB SHOWS YOU HOW HIS NEW HACKER A50 BRUSHLESS MOTOR PUMPS AMPS AND POWER FOR HIS TIGER MOTH. By Rob Caso
FUSELAGE BUILD #1 64 DECATHLON JEFF EXPLAINS HOW BUILDING THEM STRONG AND STRAIGHT IS NOT AT ALL DIFFICULT TO DO. By Jeff Troy
REVIEWS
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WE EXPLAIN WHY THIS NEW RC MODEL STAND WILL HELP YOU IN THE WORKSHOP. By Staff
PG 72 SEE HOW THIS STAND WILL TAKE THE ACHE OUT OF YOUR BACK.
200 QX 80 BLADE QUAD W/ CAM DISCOVER WHY THE 200 QX IS AN INEXPENSIVE QUAD FOR AN INTRO INTO AERIAL CAMERAS. By Lucidity
PG 86
IF IT LOOKS A WILD AND CRAZY FLYING BUG, IT IS A FUN QUAD TO FLY. rc-sportflyer.tumblr.com
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STBL ULTRA RC STAND
OMINUS DROMIDA QUAD IT LOOKS LIKE A FOUR-LEGGED BUG, BUT IS OUT-OF-THIS WORLD FUN TO FLY INDOORS AND OUT. By Wil Byers
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HANGAR 9 DHC-2 BEAVER IT’S A 1/4-SCALE AIRPLANE THAT IS BUILT TOUGH TO TAKE YOU INTO THE TIGHTEST AIRSTRIPS. By Staff
THIS IS BRUTE FORCE AVIATION AT ITS GAS-POWERED BEST.
PG 76 RC-SF.COM
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HOT PRODUCTS ARES ADVANTAGE ETHOS FPV QUAD
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he Ares Advantage Ethos FPV is the platform for budget-minded customers in the market for a large quad to take high-quality FPV video. Its large size makes it easy to see in flight, and the Aegis 6-axis flight stability system (FSS) gives it the control you need to get the quality footage you want. A high-quality camera that films 720p HD video at 30 FPS comes installed on the Ethos FPV, along with an antivibration mount that helps hold the camera
Specifications Length Length including rotors Height Rotor diameter Weight with battery Motors
Battery Charger Transmitter
11.5 in. (292.1 mm) 18.75 in. (476.25 mm) 5 in. (127 mm) 7.75 in. (196 mm) 11 oz (312 g) 350 brushed motors with ball bearings on the props’ shafts to minimize wear on the motors 2S 7.4V 1200-mAh 25C LiPo 2S LiPo 600-mAh AC charger 2.4-GHz, 4-channel flight function, 2-channels for camera operation 4.5-in. diagonal 5-in-1 control board
LCD screen On-board electronics SD card 4 GB memory, C4 Data Transmission Speed (DTS) Photo 1600 x 12 JPEG resolution AVI video 720p = 1280 x 720 pixels resolution (16:9), 30 FPS
steady so you can avoid shakes and bumps in the video footage. The signal is sent to a 4.5-in. LCD screen that mounts directly to the transmitter. There is an anti-glare shield that frames the screen. The Ethos FPV comes with a high-speed SD memory card and a USB card reader. The Ethos FPV comes with an integrated LED light system and is capable of doing 360° flips at the touch of the Tx’s button. The Ethos FPV is RTF (Ready-To-Fly), so it arrives 100% factory-assembled. Everything needed to fly and take FPV video is included in the box. In addition to the Ethos FPV airframe, camera, and anti-vibration mount, you get a 2.4-GHz standard size 4-channel transmitter (with 2 additional channels to control the camera), the 4.5-in. LCD screen that attaches to the transmitter and receives the FPV video signal, the anti-glare shield, a 1200-mAh 2-cell 25C LiPo battery, an AC charger for convenient charging from
Distributor HOBBYTOWN USA 1233 Libra Drive Lincoln, NE 68512 Phone: 402-434-5050 Hobbytown.com
almost any outlet, a high speed SD card and reader, and even the AA batteries needed to power the transmitter. With nothing extra to buy, you can begin flying the Ethos FPV and taking quality aerial videos within minutes of opening the box. Price
$299.99 (AZSZ2550) $269.99 (AZSZ2552)
MULTIPLEX CONNECTOR SOLDER COUPLERS
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he new Multiplex solder couplers are designed to provide a large area for soldering servo lead wires to the connector’s pins than was previously possible. They are designed to provide strain relief for the servos’ wires and power leads at the connector, which means much less chance of a connection break over the life of your model. Price $4.50
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RC SPORT FLYER . NOVEMBER 2014
Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St. NE #12 Palm Bay, FL, 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 Espritmodel.com twitter.com/rcsportflyer
ESPRIT AEROBTEC ATLIS V4 ALTIMETER Specifications Functions Altimeter, thermometer, altitude switch, telemetry Upgradeable Via USB PC interface Telemetry Jeti Duplex, Multiplex support M-Link Operational 4 to 12.6 volts voltage Dimensions 33 x 20 x 6.5 mm Weight 8 g w/cable Calibration None required Memory 15 hours at the 0.1 second sample interval Sample rates Adjustable from 0.1 to 25.5 seconds per sample
Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St. NE #12 Palm Bay, FL, 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 Espritmodel.com
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he AerobTec Altis V4 is an RC altimeter designed especially for F5J and E-Soaring electric-powered sailplane competitions. It can also be used to record the altitude of any aircraft. One benefit is the built-in screen that displays the F5J start height (or other data) automatically. This allows F5J competitions to be run very easily and safely. Another great benefit is its ability to interface with Jeti Duplex and Multiplex M-Link 2.4-GHz receivers for telemetry. Despite these very powerful features, the Altis V4 is very small and lightweight. The Altis Flight Manager software is used to download the log data to a PC, to display and analyze it, and to save it in various formats. The software must be downloaded separately. The Micro USB to USB cable and telemetry cable are not included. Price $85.00
FUTABA S.BUS TERMINAL BOX 6-WAY Distributor Hobbico 2904 Research Rd. Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-398-8970 Hobbico.com
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he latest accessory in the innovative Futaba S.Bus system is the Terminal Box 6-Way. It allows modelers to unleash their flight system’s potential and cut down on cable clutter. S.Bus uses digital serial data communication technology to transmit control signals between the receiver and servos, and the Terminal Box connects S.Bus components for reliable, spaceefficient operation. It’s an innovative system that simplifies setup and gives pilots lots of
programming capability. Features • S.Bus for servos, hubs, batteries, and receivers • Compact size for mounting in cramped fuselages • Cutting-edge Futaba technology for your airplanes Price
$17.99 (FUTM4199)
PROTO X PROTO-X FPV HD MICRO QUAD RTF
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Distributor Hobbico 2904 Research Rd. Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-398-0007 Hobbico.com rc-sportflyer.tumblr.com
he Proto-X FPV is durable, stable, and easy to fly. It puts you in the pilot’s seat by streaming HD video to the transmitter’s 4.5-in. screen and lets you save your inflight videos to the memory card for later review. It’s easy to fly indoors or out, gyro stabilized, and comes with an interferencefree 2.4-GHz radio with a hood for easy outdoor viewing. It also comes complete with a LiPo battery, USB charge cord, and everything else you need to fly, film, and have fun! Just install four AA batteries and you’re good to go. Price
$229.99 (ESTE4716) RC-SF.COM
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EVENT
This BVM F-100 Super Sabre was flown by Dr. Shani Studnik from the Miami, FL area. A slick pilot, he presented the airplane in a very scale-like manner. The low, high-speed passes at 200 mph were simply breathtaking! The fabulous Grumman Wildcat was built from a Fischer kit, out of Europe, by Scott Prossen. This airplane is a constant award winner. Its wingspan is 114-in., and it weighs 54 pounds. Scott’s model uses a Moki 250 for power, and is fitted with Futaba radio gear.
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RC SPORT FLYER . NOVEMBER 2014
twitter.com/rcsportflyer
12 O’CLOCK HIGH
AMERICAN FORCES RALLY AT PARADISE FIELD BY GARY ROSIER
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osted at Paradise Field in Lakeland, FL, over the weekend of October 23rd, the 12 O’clock High event was promoted as an annual gathering where scale airplane enthusiasts could share their passion for building and flying radio control (RC) aircraft. 12 O’clock High was advertised as a warbirds and classics event. It featured models copied after full-scale aircraft from more than six decades. The airplanes flown and shown at the event were every bit of that and more! 12 O’clock High is open to the public. The organizer does that as a way to give the public exposure to state-of-the-art RC airplanes. The event is open to models of all sizes, but many, if not most, were of
the large-scale size — some sporting price tags well in excess of $10,000. Over 100 aircraft were entered. While aviation history and nostalgia are the centerpieces of this event, it was the pilots and their aircraft that delivered the real excitement for the spectators and the on-looking participants. Promoter Frank Tiano provides an upscale RC airfield for the pilots and their airplanes. Note that the RC airfield was upgraded for the 2014 event with a paved, 60- by 700-foot runway. Additionally, the airfield has a closely-cropped grass strip that abuts the new asphalt. It was used by many of the vintage models that do better flying off grass. There was also a very nice vendor area — which was in close proximity to the flight line —
This silver doped Nieuport 17 was built from a Balsa USA kit by Todd Bixby. The model sports a 107-in. wingspan. It is a 1/3-scale model that weighs 35 pounds. Todd has fitted the model with a DA 100 twin-cylinder engine for power. It’s an award winner! rc-sportflyer.tumblr.com
lus food stands and plenty of closep in parking. Moreover, the spectators had easy access to the aircraft, which was a delight for them; the airborne action was up front and close enough for everyone to see well. As you may already know if you read the special August Joe Nall Edition of this magazine, RC is quite new to me. I am a fan for sure because I grew up in the world of aviation. I built many of the balsa and spruce kits that were available to me as a youth — among them Jetco kits with 44-in. wingspans, but they were U-control type. As it so often happens, life (family, job, time, and money) gets in the way of other pursuits, so I never really got into flying RC aircraft. However, all my life I’ve flown with
Arnold Marcus, a pilot from Orlando, FL, owns this Gruman F7-F Tiger Cat. The plans were drawn by Don Smith, and the model was scratch built. It features a 103-in. wingspan and is powered by two Zonoah G45 engines that were fitted with Mejzlik propellers. The landing gear is by Robart. RC-SF.COM
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You get an idea of just how many Chinese aircraft you are going to to see at the museum when you look at all them parked on the abandoned taxiways. There are many MiGs as well as Yaks, and even some from the USA.
CHINA AVIATION MUSEUM HISTORIC AIRCRAFT OF THE WORLD’S MOST POPULOUS COUNTRY BY MENG ZHE 1
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This is the entrance to the museum. Adjoining it is the entry portal where you will pay about $50 RMB to enter the museum, which is a pass for the entire day. You’ll pay extra to enter the Datangshan cave area, though.
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As you enter the museum’s grounds you will see this huge Beriev Be-6 Mug. This one was upgraded to the WJ-6 turboprop engines. It would make an excellent model that would fly off any good-sized pond.
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Here is a very clean example of a version of the Yak-11 that was used by the Chinese military. This one was adapted from the Yak-11 Moose, which was mass produced for the military. twitter.com/rcsportflyer
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C Sport Flyer magazine typically presents its readers content about aircraft made in the USA, Great Britain, Germany, and (much less frequently) some from Russia. However, there have been many airplanes designed, built, flown, and even used in combat that were built in People’s Republic of China. Consequently, while the editorin-chief (Wil) was working in China a few months ago with me, I took him to the China Aviation Museum, which is about 45 kilometers north of Tiananmen Square in Beijing — or an hour’s driving time by taxi.
The museum is located at the site of Datangshan mountain. Originally the site was a Chinese military installation, which included a cave inside Datangshan Mountain. The museum still includes an extensive collection of airplanes housed inside the 1,900-foot-long cave that is 36 feet high and 130 feet wide. If you should visit the museum, I think you will find the cave an impressive installation, with aircraft that will remind you of the Korean War and the Cold War. The cave is filled from end to end with historic airplanes that are unique to the Chinese military, as well
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as some from general aviation. The museum was opened to the public from the date of November 11, 1989. When it opened the entry fee was free, however, the cost of admittance is now $50 RMB, about $8.00 in U.S. currency. For that price, you can spend the entire day in the museum and see literally hundreds of aircraft, including Chairman Mao’s airliner, which will cost you $5.00 RMB to tour. Recently, the museum underwent an expansion with the addition of two buildings: a modern indoor facility and a training facility. The expanded
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HOW TO
REPAIRING FIBERGLASS RESTORING A DAMAGED FIBERGLASS PART TO LIKE-NEW CONDITION BY TOM WOLF
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Materials required to repair fiberglass parts are shown here. West Marine sells metering pumps to ensure the proper mix ratio for their West Systems epoxy.
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Proper safety equipment when working with fiberglass and epoxy resin or paint includes a good quality mask rated for particulates and solvents, and rubber gloves. The gloves can be purchased in bulk at Walmart® or Costco®.
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RC SPORT FLYER . NOVEMBER 2014
ften, fiberglass parts are damaged or degraded due to mishaps or from extended use. When that happens, many modelers purchase replacement fiberglass parts and toss out the damaged item. However, in most cases fiberglass can be repaired fairly easily and the restored part, when repaired properly, is equivalent to a new part. In fact, the restored part may very well be better than a new part. By examining the damaged part, weak areas can be identified and appropriate reinforcement can be added during the restoration process. This article describes a number of typical fiberglass repair procedures I utilized to restore a rather beat-up giant-scale F4U Corsair cowl. While the discussion will be specific to the cowl, the techniques are applicable to any fiberglass part, whether it’s a cowl, wheel pant, fiberglass fuselage, etc. Recently, an RC acquaintance of mine contacted me and inquired about the possibility of fabricating a new cowl for his giant-scale Corsair. The model’s existing cowl had become unserviceable because of cracks, delaminated fiberglass, and mounting holes that had enlarged to the point where the attaching screws were pulling through. Since I do not have a mold for this cowl, starting from scratch to fabricate a new cowl would require a considerable amount of labor. In comparison, restoring the existing cowl could be relatively simple. I asked him to ship the cowl to me so I could look at it, and if possible, restore it. When the cowl arrived, I found it to be in very poor condition, as can be seen in the accompanying photos. However, despite the poor condition, I was certain I could restore it without too much effort. The following how-to article summarizes the procedure I used to restore this cowl to like-new condition. MATERIALS REQUIRED Any fiberglass restoration project requires epoxy resin (I prefer West Systems epoxy available from West Marine), fiberglass cloth, glass microsphere filler, milled twitter.com/rcsportflyer
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This Corsair cowl is in very poor condition, with blistering/peeling paint, cracks, enlarged holes, and oil soaked fiberglass. This is a challenging restoration project by any measure.
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This damaged mounting hole is typical of the holes on this cowl. However, holes such as these are easily repairable with a bit of work, patience, and following this procedure as outlined.
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Liquid dish detergent is excellent for cleaning an oil-soaked part. Initially apply the detergent full strength, working it into the part. Then, add water to develop a rich lather.
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These photos depict a particularly bad section of the cowl before and after paint removal. Note the cracked fiberglass and broken and delaminated edges.
glass filler, masking tape, sandpaper, a good quality dust mask rated for sanding fiberglass, and rubber gloves, which must be worn whenever mixing or applying epoxy resin. The microsphere filler is used to make a lightweight filling compound by mixing it with epoxy resin until the rc-sportflyer.tumblr.com
desired consistency is achieved. This material is used to fill pinholes and low spots, or to form non-structural fillets. A very inexpensive source for glass microspheres is Glen-L Marine. They sell a large plastic bag full of microspheres (one pound) for a surprisingly low price. One pound of
microspheres is a lifetime supply for most modelers. The milled glass filler is used to make structural filling compound by mixing with epoxy until the consistency of peanut butter is achieved. This material is used to fill holes and form structural fillets. A RC-SF.COM
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HOW TO
REPAIR COMPOSITE WINGS YOU CAN FIX THEM SO THEY ARE ALMOST LIKE NEW! BY FRED THIJSSEN
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et me start by telling you I live in the Netherlands. I picked up RC modeling in 1999. The first five years I was in the hobby, I flew almost exclusively F3J gliders. Over the last 10 to 12 years, I’ve developed several methods of building and repairing composite models. Ninety percent of my models are gliders — giant-scale and F3J competition models. I would like to share some information regarding repairing carbon fiber, Kevlar® (CFK), and fiberglass models.
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This photo shows how I’m making a temporary mold from that of a good wing. Notice that I’m protecting the good wing with a plastic film material. You do not want the mold sticking to the good wing!
I use L285 epoxy for my model repairs such as this one. It has a 24-hour cure time and it is thin enough that it will penetrate the fiberglass, Kevlar, and carbon rovings. RC SPORT FLYER . NOVEMBER 2014
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I use a clamp to hold the wing in its temporary mold and to keep the spar in its original position. Next I’ll glue in the filler pieces to the area that has been damaged. twitter.com/rcsportflyer
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The shows the repair material being clamped into the spar to replace the damaged areas. Again, I use L285 epoxy to fix this damage. It will require a 24-hour cure, which will allow the epoxy to cure completely.
BUILD TYPES I use three methods of building my models and repairing them. First, I build many of my models in wood — balsa and plywood, with typical gluing methods. Next, I’ve used the positive method, where I cut foam cores with my CNC foam cutter machine and then lay up over the foam cores. I also use the negative methods, where I create molds and then build up or lay up the composite materials in the molds to create composite parts. REPAIR PRIORITIES My repair methods are certainly not the only way to do the repair I’m going to show you, but for me they work. Hopefully you can adapt some of these methods for your models or the repairs of them. These are some of the things that I consider important to a good repair: • Making it as strong as needed and as possible • As lightweight as I can make the fix with the materials needed • As inexpensive as possible — remember I’m Dutch • As fast as possible but providing the necessary strength • Optics I consider less important, but needed for good performance. In this first contribution, I would like to show how I fixed a model that was a total write-off from a crash. The model was a Pike Perfection that had been badly crashed. Before I start this article, keep in mind the wings are sold for about 600 Euros apiece! I’d think that kind of cost would rc-sportflyer.tumblr.com
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At this point I’m doing some repair work to the broken spar. It is important that the spar caps are repaired properly because they are what carry the stress loads imparted to the wing. You can see the carbon tow on top of the spar.
make repairing a set of wings with my methods worth while in terms of conserving finances. The model crashed for reasons unknown to me. It belonged to a very good pilot, who was the Dutch champion a few times. The wings had very big holes. The spars were broken in multiple places. As I received them, the wings could actually be twisted and bent easily. The wings of this model are about six feet long each. Their center sections were badly damaged about two feet in from the root sections. Because the most significant damage was at the junction of where the wings have a dihedral angle (slightly ‘V’ shaped), I needed to make certain I could fix the wings such that they were in their original form and position. I was able to borrow a set of new wings from a friend. I used them make some very simple molds of both wings. I used scraps of fiberglass material of various weights and L285 epoxy to fabricate the molds. The easiest way to fabricate the female molds is to make plaster bandages. I did not have such material at the time, and honestly I thought of it too late (see the pictures). I let the molds cure for at least two days to make certain they were hard and would not change shape. Then I returned the borrowed wings to my friend. I molded parts off these tools with plastic between the original and the glass/epoxy to be sure I did not damage anything. During the curing time, I cut away all the bad and
damaged parts from the wings. There was a lot that required removal. The cutting was done by hand by use of a very sharp and fresh Stanley® knife, as well as with a micro-cutter (Proxxon), which only cuts four millimeters deep maximum. When you do this step, do not hold back in cutting away broken pieces. The size of the holes that you’ll be repairing do not matter that much, within reason. After I was able to position the remains of the wing in the mold, I made sure it was fixed tight in the mold, using plastic film to make certain the wing did not cure and then lock itself in the mold. THE PROCESS 1.) You’ll want to fix the broken parts of wing. This is normally what I do first. Start by repairing the spar. It is actually the easiest thing to do on a GFK/CFK model wing. I recommend you take into consideration the function of the item you are repairing. A spar does not have to be the strongest and stiffest part of a wing. A spar, in this case, is a fancy spacer, dividing upper and lower wing pieces. Remember, this type of wing is a stressed box, with the skins both providing torsional and compressive strength. So you can typically fix a broken spar with a few drops of cyanoacrylate (CA) applied to the cracks in the shear webbing. The carbon on the top and bottom of the spar must, however, deliver the needed strength. In this case, I milled RC-SF.COM
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BUILD
HACKER A50 BRUSHLESS WHAT’S INSIDE THE COWL DELIVERS PERFORMANCE PLUS
BY ROB CASO
M I was the pilot for the maiden flight of the Tiger Moth, which is not my usual practice. Because my model has a good motor and power system up front, a lot of the first-flight fear was removed. Nine-minute flights are the norm as I have my Moth configured. I set it up so that there is about a 20 percent safety margin in the event that I need to make a go-around pass.
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ake no mistake, I am primarily an airframe and detail guy! What, you may ask, is a scale guy like me doing here with a motor review? Well, I have been a electricpowered scale modeler for about 15 years. Aside from using many Hackers during that period, my airplanes are always overdue, over budget, and, unfortunately, overweight. As a result, the last thing my models need is an underperforming, unreliable, and inefficient motor. While I use Motocalc™ exclusively to help guide me on motor selection, some of its inputs rely on my guesstimates, most notably, estimated airframe weight. Intrinsic in these initial assumptions is that I am secretly hoping my motor selection will make up for any shortcomings in my overly optimistic estimates. I am happy to report that both Motocalc and Hacker have never let me down. twitter.com/rcsportflyer
Half throttle power applied pulls the Tiger Moth around the sky straight and level in a very scale-like manner, with plenty of power left for the occasional loop or stall turn.
Here is a close-up of the mounting hardware, and the propeller mounts, the latter of which include both the collet type and bolt-on varieties
Good motors are not cheap! A model’s motor is not an appropriate place for economy; and, I submit that spending a little more for a quality motor is, in fact, economical in and of itself. Therefore, I shoot for efficiency, reliability, power, and quality, with the resulting cost being immediately forgotten once the model is in the air. As such, my scale models have become a showcase for upscale electric motors, with me using predominately Hacker, O.S., and Himax in my serious efforts — Hacker being my favorite. This statement does not mean I will be doing a side-by-side shootout in this article; it merely describes what I have powering my current air force. Nor should you infer that the other brands noted are in any way substantially inferior to Hacker. They are not! Just as in the Olympic 100 meter dash, the differences in the top three spots are rc-sportflyer.tumblr.com
almost indiscernible. I am using a Hacker A50 motor in my recently flown 66-in. wingspan Tiger Moth, which weighed in at almost exactly eight pounds, about a half pound over what I expected it to be when I ran the numbers through Motocalc. A motor’s performance is largely dependent on the stuff behind it. For the Moth, I have a pair of 3200mAh 3S Evo LiPo packs wired in series for 6S power. The model also uses a Castle Creations Talon 90 speed controller. Up front, the motor is turning an APC 13 x 7 propeller, which Motocalc determined was one of two that would yield the optimal power during my mandatory nine minute
These are the contents of the A50 14-XS, with typical Hacker quality and versatility. I recommend using thread-locking compound for everything but the propeller mount.
flight time requirement — a relatively narrow range. In retrospect, Hacker’s model “S” of this motor might have been the better choice, since it is torquier and therefore can spin a larger and a wider range of propellers at the expense of some speed. Since biplanes are draggy, they like torquemonster motors and large propellers. In the end, the “XS” motor turned out to be an appropriate choice; it flies the model with authority. As an aside, if you design or kit build your models, it is important to nail down motor selection early on, as this determines what the motor mount should look like and where it will be on the model. RC-SF.COM
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BUILD
DECATHLON FUSELAGE, PART 1 GET IT STRAIGHT AND STRONG
BY JEFF TROY
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he wing panels and empennage for my Dynaflite Super Decathlon are constructed and rough sanded. In this installment, I will start constructing the fuselage. Building the fuselage is a relatively simple task because all the curvy shapes of the bottom and forward cabin are based on a simple, foursided box. This is an old-school, triedand-true model design at its best, and I believe you’ll enjoy following along. If you are not building the Decathlon with me, I hope you will take advantage of some of the methods I
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describe when constructing your own favorite models. I prefer medium cyanoacrylate (CA) glue for most basic construction steps, and one of my favorites is Bob Smith Industries (BSI) Insta-Cure +. Prepare the plans by taping the fuselage side view to your work surface. The plans must be protected, and when working with CA adhesives, my first choice for a barrier is parchment paper, available in the baking section of most grocery stores. Tape doesn’t stick well to parchment paper, so use long strips at the corners
Plans should be protected by a barrier. When working with CA adhesives, my choice is parchment paper. You might also consider a Great Planes® Plan Protector or a MonoKote® backing sheet. RC SPORT FLYER . NOVEMBER 2014
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to hold it down as best you can. Don’t worry if it lifts; the model’s structure will trap the barrier as you pin the parts down over it. The Decathlon fuselage is built from balsawood sticks and die-cut Lite-Ply and balsa parts. The parts will come out of their sheets more quickly and with fewer rough or split edges if you sand the backs of the sheets with coarse sandpaper or a flat Perma-Grit tool on a Great Planes® Easy-Touch bar sander. Sand vigorously, checking a few parts for ease of release as you go. Don’t be tempted to pop them all
Use an Easy-Touch Bar Sander to sand the backs of die-cut sheets. This often eases parts fit, slightly reduces weight, and helps the parts release from the sheets more easily. twitter.com/rcsportflyer
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You can never use too many clamps when laminating plywood parts. I prefer 15-minute epoxy for its excellent penetration into the wood, high degree of strength, vibration resistance, and longevity.
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Bulkhead parts are joined with medium CA glue, and then pinned down over the plans until the CA sets. I use a Zona saw to cut each of the sticks slightly oversize in length.
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This close-up demonstrates neatly sanded angles on mating parts. It also hints at the advantages of cutting the sticks oversize and sanding them uniformly after lifting them from the plans.
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Use the Easy-Touch to sand the overhangs away from the sticks, using the perimeter parts as guides for a straight sanding line. Angle the sides to match the fuselage curve.
out ahead of time; it’s a lot smarter to leave them in their sheets and remove each part as it is needed. The Dynaflite manual provides drawings of all the parts sheets, which you will find helpful in locating and identifying all the die-cut parts. Construction begins with several sub-assemblies. Getting them ready will let you fit them into their respective places as the fuselage progresses. First up is the firewall, but before you get started, you’ll want to decide how you intend to power your model. The manual provides the options for a gasoline- or glowpowered engine, but making a few modifications to accommodate electric power would not be difficult, because there is plenty of room for a motor and speed controller under that big ABS cowl, and a battery hatch could easily be built into the belly ahead of the landing gear. I opted for an O.S. 1.20 four-stroke rc-sportflyer.tumblr.com
glow engine for my Decathlon, and once that decision was reached, I used BSI 15-minute Quik-Cure epoxy to laminate the firewall’s three pieces of die-cut Lite-Ply. Two additional Lite-Ply laminations are added as spacers to get the engine farther forward so the spinner backplate can fit the front of the cowl correctly. If an engine other than the O.S. 1.20 is chosen, you might have to remove or add one or more of the spacers to optimally position the engine. After the epoxy on the Lite-Ply firewall parts has cured, drill the holes for the engine mount and tap in the blind nuts with a few drops of epoxy under each one to secure them. This is also a good time to drill the firewall for the fuel lines and throttle linkage. Hold the engine in position on the mount while you mark the locations for the holes. Drill 1/4-in. holes for the fuel lines, and if you have a countersink bit, use it to put a slight
bevel around both sides of the holes. Doing this will let the lines pass freely through the firewall without snagging, and will help prevent chafing of the lines from vibration. Three bulkheads must be constructed from 1/4 x 1/2- and 1/4 x 1/4-in. balsa sticks. Cut the sticks slightly oversize, applying medium CA to each contact point and pinning the parts down as assembly proceeds. When the CA on the bulkheads is set, remove the pins and lift the pieces from the plans. Cutting the sticks oversize means their ends can be sanded to perfection after the bulkheads are constructed—and you won’t end up with one or more tooshort sticks. Sand the four sides of each bulkhead, putting a slight angle on the two smaller bulkheads’ upright pieces that will approximate the curvature of the rear fuselage sides. Assemble the forward cabin side of the fuselage from the two pieces RC-SF.COM
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3-VIEW
PILATUS PC-6 PORTER DRAWINGS BY HANS-JÜRGEN FISCHER
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he full-scale Pilatus PC-6 Porter is designed as a single-engine short-takeoff-and-landing (STOL) aircraft. Its maiden flight was made on May 4, 1959. The original
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PC-6 was built by Pilatus Aircraft of Switzerland, and continues to be produced at their factory in Flugzeugwerke in Stans, Switzerland. PC-6s have been built as both
piston-engine- and turboproppowered versions. The first prototype was powered by a 254 kW (340 hp) piston engine. The first turboprop version flew in 1961, with turbine upgraded in 1963. The upgraded version had a 410 kW (550 hp) power plant. For a short while in the 1970s, the Fairchild Hiller Company in the United States built them for use in the Vietnam War. It had the U.S. Air Force designation AU-23A Peacemaker and UV-20 Chiricahua for the U.S. Army. Note the Peacemaker was fitted with a 20-mm side-firing XM-197 Gatling cannon, plus four wing pylons and a fuselage mount for external ordnance. The airplane was not suited to the war, so they were returned to the U.S. after a year in service. What makes the PC-6 stand out from most other aircraft is its STOL performance. It is designed to take off twitter.com/rcsportflyer
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(Scale x 2)
B-B
(Scale x 2)
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REVIEW
Stop bending over to work on your model. Now, the STBL Ultra RC Stand can bring it to a comfortable working height.
STBL ULTRA RC STAND
DON’T GET AN ACHING BACK — STAND! BY STAFF
This is everything that will come in your Ultra RC Stand’s shipping box — you’ll have it assembled in 10 minutes or less.
The Ultra Stand is easy to work around on all sides because it has a very small footprint in any workshop’s floor.
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A
s modelers, we’ve all faced the challenges of installing radio gear, engines, motors, speed controllers, batteries, trim schemes, etc. on a typical workbench. It can be done, but there are challenges when trying to work on a model from side to side. We’ve all also faced the reality of getting an aching back while trying to work on a model that is on the floor or on a low bench. Or, we’ve just not been able to adjust the height of the work surface to accommodate our height.
The STBL Company of Edgewood, Washington has just introduced a solution to working on your model’s fuselage that just may fit your frame, and your model’s too. It is called the Ultra RC Stand. We’ve been testing it for a while now, and we’re liking what this unit has to offer in terms of functionality for the model builder.
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FEATURES • Sturdy steel construction • Sized for ≥1/4-scale models • Easily holds 1/3-scale sailplanes
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Strong enough for 55-lb models Adjustable for different fuselages Converts to flat for easy storage Stores in trunks or small vehicles Disassembles in less than five minutes, without tools Perfect for model building, setups, and airfield assembly Stake-down holes for secure ground mounting Professionally applied powder coating Colors: blue, yellow, and red Made and assembled in the USA
The head of the Stand comes with foam pads installed on the sides and on the head’s floor to protect the fuselage.
The Stand adjusts in length, height, and fuselage width. Adjustments require loosening a knob and then retightening.
This photo shows the set bolt that you’ll use to adjust the height of the legs. The leg slides inside the Stand’s upright for easy adjustments.
Here you see how you’ll adjust the width of the Stand’s head. Again, it requires only one set knob adjustment to modify the width.
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This is the knob you’ll use to adjust the length of the stand. We like that the knobs are all out of the workspace’s way.
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REVIEW
QUADCOPTER A CREATURE THAT LETS YOU GO WILD!
BY STAFF
A
s winter closes in, with subfreezing temperatures, RC pilots want to keep their reflexes honed for the upcoming flying season. You can do so with a simulator such as RealFlight® 7.5, but there’s another way to do it — by flying the new Ominus Dromida. Dromida is a new quad that sports a rotor span of 12.25 inches from blade tip to blade tip. Honestly, it looks like some kind of oversized bug because of its motor arms that are
You’ll get everything you need to start flying your Ominus Dromida quad in the kit box — there is nothing more to buy!
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painted in bright colors. Also, the main body has a drooping nose and light in its rear that flashes to indicate the different flight modes. There are lights in the forward arms and rear arms as well that make the little machine look fearsome it a dimly-lit room. It’s just a great looking little machine that we took a liking to from the moment we opened its box/ carrying case. INCLUDES You’ll only need to buy the Dromida to get everything you’ll need to start flying this model in 30 minutes or less. Everything you need to fly this little critter comes in the box: quad, transmitter, four AAA alkaline batteries, USB LiPo charger, 3.7-volt 700-mAh 25C LiPo battery, and four extra blades with set screws. As a point of reference, we took the Dromida out of its box, installed the batteries in the transmitter, and then flew the model on the LiPo’s storage charge for a couple of minutes. From box to the air required less than 10 minutes of work — that includes scanning the user’s manual and learning the setups to program the kit’s transmitter for different sensitivity levels: easy, normal, advanced and expert.
As you can see, you get everything you need to start flying this critter in 30 minutes or less of assembly/charge time.
NEEDED TO COMPLETE You won’t need anything besides a couple of hours to burn because you’ll enjoy flying this little machine all over the house, office, or shop so much you won’t want to stop! We suggest you buy at least one extra battery, but preferably a couple, so you can fly the model for as long as you want. All you’ll need to do is plug the USB charger into a USB port (computer, cell phone charger, or any USB source) and you’ll be set to
Check out the arms on this bug. It comes like this right out of its kit box. You don’t even need to add decals. rc-sportflyer.tumblr.com
have the pack charged in about 30 minutes, depending on pack state. IN FLIGHT This is a quad that almost anyone can fly. Of course, what sensitivity level you’ll want programmed into the transmitter depends on your skill level, but on the easy setting you’ll find that even the office staff will end up not getting their work done because they’ll be flying the Dromida! Our test pilot cranked the
Dromida’s transmitter is easy to program. You’ll do so with the transmitter stick and the F-mode button on the Tx’s top. RC-SF.COM
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REVIEW
200 QX
LITTLE BROTHER IS WATCHING YOU BY LUCIDITY, ROSWELL FLIGHT TEST CREW
The Blade 200 QX offers pilots a choice of three different flight modes at the flip of a switch: full acrobatic performance, auto-leveling with tight restrictions on pitch and roll inputs, and an intermediate mode which allows for more aggressive maneuvers but retains auto-leveling capability.
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H
orizon Hobby® came late to the multirotor scene, introducing its first-ever quadcopter in early 2012. The Blade mQX was fun to fly, but was ultimately just a simple quad. Around that same time, DJI was busy re-defining the industry with the release of a GPSenabled flight control system for the hobby market and the S800 hexacopter, a pro-grade aerial camera ship. Ever since, Horizon has been playing catch up. When DJI took multirotors mainstream by introducing the Phantom, Horizon answered in kind with the Blade 350 QX, which came complete with a mount for the ubiquitous GoPro Hero3 sports camera and a flight control system with built-in GPS. The company’s latest entry into the increasingly crowded multirotor field is the diminutive Blade 200 QX, announced as a “Little Brother” to the 350 QX. It sells for $229 and, in a break with Horizon Hobby tradition, is only offered in a Bind-N-Fly (BNF) kit. No Read-To-Fly (RTF) version is available, so make sure you have a Spektrum or other DSM-compatible radio before you buy a 200 QX. In addition, Horizon is selling the E-flite EFC-721 camera as an accessory for the 200 QX. The camera, which sells for $49, includes a cable to connect it with the aircraft’s receiver, allowing you to capture still images and video while it’s in the air. In total, it’s an aerial photography
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system that costs less than $300 — but is it any good? THINKING INSIDE THE BOX One thing to say about the folks who work at Horizon Hobby is that they are stone-cold professionals, something that you can’t necessarily take for granted in the industry these days. The packaging for the 200 QX is sumptuous to behold, and its sturdy styrofoam inserts ensure that your new aircraft arrives safe and sound. The manual is clear, complete, well-illustrated, and obviously written by a native English speaker. It even includes a handy chart, telling you how to configure each of the various Spektrum radios — DX5, DX6, DX8, etc. — to work with the 200 QX. The battery charger that ships with the 200 QX is brain-dead simple, connecting to the included two-cell, 800-mAh Lithium-Polymer (LiPo) battery through its balance lead. Since charging LiPo batteries can be an anxiety-inducing process for newcomers that also entails a small but real risk of fire or explosion, Horizon was wise to make the process so straightforward. Precious little assembly is required when you receive your 200 QX. Just
attach the spindly landing struts with the hex screws you’ll find inside the box and you’re ready to go — likely before the battery is finished charging. We found the provided Allen wrench was a little awkward to work with, but that was hardly a show-stopper. The 200 QX arrives with its propellers already attached. Best practice requires you to remove them before binding the aircraft and, if you choose to take that step, you’ll discover one of its many clever, hidden features: the propeller shafts are threaded in the direction opposite to the motor’s rotation. This eliminates the possibility of a propeller unscrewing itself in flight and launching into the stratosphere while the rest of the aircraft comes crashing to the ground. That might seem like overkill on a sub-200-mm quad, but I take it as an indication that Horizon is thinking seriously about the multirotor platform for the long term, not just shoveling product out the door because it’s a hot market segment right now. The propeller nuts are color coded, enabling you to determine where they belong at a glance, and the box includes a full set (four) of
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REVIEW
DHC-2 BEAVER 30CC ARF A BUSH PLANE TO GET YOU IN AND OUT OF ANY AIRFIELD
BY STAFF
The Hangar 9 deHavilland Beaver is an impressive machine in the air. The Evolution 33 engine delivers plenty of power for you to fly this model like an Alaskan bush pilot!
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he DeHavilland DHC-2 Beaver is without question an iconic bush airplane. It is almost worshipped by pilots who must make their living getting in and out of backcountry airfields or ungroomed sites. Its original nine-cylinder Pratt & Whitney, 450 horsepower radial engine would send chills up and down any true bush pilot’s spine because its sound truly represented lots of power on tap; and, it still does! Beavers were designed to provide short takeoff and landing (STOL) performance. They are capable to being fitted with wheels, floats, and skis. The Beaver was also designed to have full-size doors so that it
would be capable of carrying a 55-gallon drum — gasoline, oil, etc. for backcountry vehicles. Note that the airplane is an all-metal aircraft too, so it is built to take some bumps and bruises, but without severe damage that would otherwise limit is flyability. Now, the DHC-2 is used for just about any kind of flying, including taking passengers and packages into areas they would otherwise not be able to reach. The Beaver is now produced by the Viking company, which offers it as DHC-2T Turbo Beaver, which has a gross takeoff weight of 6,000 pounds. This history combined, with the quality of Hangar 9 kits, had us
wanting to review this 33-cc gaspowered, 110-inch wingspan Beaver. It just has nostalgia and performance written all over its nine-cylinder cowl. FEATURES • Scale outline and appearance • Scale doors, with spring-loaded latches • Corrugated scale surface detailing • Instrument panel and seat details • Laser-cut wood construction • Two-piece, plug-in wings and stabilizers • Aluminum tube joiner • Quick-connect/disconnect struts • Painted aluminum landing gear with fiberglass fairings
At a wingspan of 110 inches, the Beaver presents well in the air. Once it’s in the sky, you’ll discover that it flies and handles like a large-scale, gas-powered airplane. rc-sportflyer.tumblr.com
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