First Look at Jeti DS-16 Transmitter pg 72
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Aerobatics Part 6 ASK-18 Flight Report Beaufighter Build 2 Scale Competition Pilots Hot Products
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BUILD
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Bristol Beaufighter #2 See how construction begins on Dave’s Top Gun-winning airplane. By David Wigley
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Flying an ASK-18 Flight Report Part 5 of this series details how this 1/3-scale glider flies in both thermals and slope lift. By Gene Cope
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Dallaire Sportster Cover Preparation Learn how and why you should do proper preparation on an airframe before you cover it. By Jeff Troy
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6
Scale competitors Part 1I Rob interviews two contestwinning Top Gun professionals to reveal their success secrets. By Robert J Caso RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013
how to
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Aerobatics Part 6 Discover why building precision into your piloting is a necessary fundamental. By Daniel Holman
See how much programming power is built into this new Jeti Tx.
pg 72
september 2013 Wind
3
Top View
pg 60
See why you must start building precision into your piloting .
2 4
pg 40
1
review
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tameCat 40 ARF James shows you why this fun, little airplane may be a perfect pick for your next model. By James VanWinkle
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Jeti DS-16 In this review we take you inside and out the new Jeti DS-16 transmitter system. By Gene Cope
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50CC Paulistinha While this airplane may look like a Cub, it is an airplane that promises pilots a change of pace. By Dan Deckert
pg 80
The World Models’ new 50CC Paulistinha is more than just another Cub. See how and why.
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7
Specifications Sbach 342
Aerobeez 365 Cloverleaf Dr. Ste C Baldwin Park, CA 91706 Phone 877-813-5337 aerobeez.com
Motor requirement
Wingspan
48 in.
Power
450 – 500 W
Length
48 in.
Kv
950 –1000 Kv
Wing area
496 in.
Weight
130 – 170 g
Weight
40 – 45 oz
ESC
40 A continuous with 60 A burst.
Battery
3S 2200 – 2650-mAh
Propeller
13 x 6.5
Servos
14 – 20 g w/ 1.8 – 2.2 kg/cm
2
A
erobeez introduces their new 48-in. wingspan Sbach 342 full fuselage EPP airframe, with lightweight laser-cut plywood and balsa construction. This Sbach is the perfect combination of performance, durability and cost. This is the perfect allaround platform for those that always wanted to get into the 3D scene but are turned away by all-wood not crash durable airframes. You now can explore this airplane’s flight envelope and push your piloting skills to the max! Point rolls are sharp, snap rolls are crisp and clean, pop tops are just fun, and it hovers with ease! Price $149.00
AP SchemppHirth Go 6 Minimoa M02a (ARC/ARF)
Esprit 1240 Clearmont St. NE #12 Palm Bay, FL, 32905 Phone 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com
T
he original Goppingen Go 3 Minimoa was a single-seat glider produced in Germany. It was made of wood and fabric, with cantilevered, gull-type wings. It was designed by Martin Schempp and Wolf Hirth. This glider established several records, including the altitude record of 6,687m (21,939 ft), which was accomplished in 1938 in a thunderstorm. Richard duPont and Chet Decker flew Minimoas to win the U.S. Championships in 1937 and 1938. The Go 6 Minimoa MO2a was the only two-seat glider to be built from the initial order of two in 1937. The second seat was built between the wings, behind the main wing spar into the extended fuselage. The front portion of the fuselage was extended by 260 mm. To this day only four Minimoas remain airworthy, two in Germany, one in Japan and the last one in the U.K. The AP Model’s 1/5-scale version of this beautiful glider comes with the fiberglass
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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013
fuselage and a flawless finish in beige gel-coat. The canopy is removable, with fiberglass frame and comes ready for completion. The wing is beautifully finished in scale-like Solartex and ready for your aileron, and spoiler servos installation. The plug-in wings, as well as tail parts are scale like, classic balsa/plywood construction and are easily removable for transportation. This model comes in two versions, ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) covered in Solartex iron-on fabric and ARC (Almost Ready to Cover) ready for covering of your choice. All
these features give this model performance characteristic similar to a full-scale glider, while still remaining very lightweight and being beautifully built. The synergy of low weight and strong structure is very unusual even in a custom production sailplanes and can only be achieved with careful attention to design and construction. This modern, 1/5-scale model with its fiberglass fuselage and its classic balsa/plywood scale wings flies as well as full-scale did.
HOT PRODUCTS
50cc Mustang P-51B and P-51C ARF-QB Quick Build
AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net
T
he P-51B Mustang is arguably one of the most recognized and celebrated airplanes from World War II. The full-scale Mustang was known for its versatility and proved it could perform well in any mission. Now you too can own this incredible airplane in 50-cc form. Featuring a distinct canopy and turtle deck, the P-51B is a welcome change to the P-51D. This 50-cc representation of the P-51B Mustang features a true-to-scale outline. It is covered in the
highly recognized, blue-nose color scheme of the 352nd fighter group. The P-51C Kitten was flown by Col. Charles E. McGee in 1944. McGee, one of the famed Tuskegee Airmen, served as a fighter pilot during World War II, Korea, and Vietnam. McGee flew the Kitten on 136 missions. The 50-cc P-51B and P-51C ARF-QB features pre-installed pneumatic retracts, air cylinders, sequencers, inner gear doors, and air lines, which result in a complete, ready-to-use retract system. All of the gear sequencing for the main landing gear, inner landing-gear doors and the tailwheel have been completed at the factory. The Mustang also features a functioning canopy that operates just like the full-scale airplane! Quick-build quality can be seen throughout this airplane. Pre-hinged surfaces, pre-installed cowling, pre-drilled, control-horn mounting
control and consistency.
CGY750 1.3x 3-axis Flybarless Gyro and Governer
Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com
Features • New Version 1.3x software • Collective to cyclic interaction is virtually eliminated • Phase sensor support
Specifications Wingspan
86 in.
Wing area
1359 in.2
Length
75 in.
Weight
22 – 24 lb
Cowl width
6 in.
Rudder height
16 in. w/ tail wheel
Engine
50 cc
Spinner size
5 in.
Radio
6 channels minimum
locations all result in a scale airplane that can be assembled in as little as 12 hours. The P-51 is covered in Ultracote® covering providing a spectacular finish as well as making any repairs easy to perform.
• Simpler, faster setup • Compact design fits into virtually any size machine • Weighs only 13 grams Price $319.99 (FUTM0835)
H
ailed as RC’s most advanced 3-axis flybarless system when it was introduced in 2011, the CGY750 now features updated software that delivers incredible flight performance. The gyro and governor are combined into one compact unit, with an easy-to-read OLED. Setup is easier than ever, and the dynamic gyro response range is an amazing +/- 1200 degrees per second. New Version 1.3x software improves flight performance through higher cyclic gains, better piro compensation and greater rate Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer
RC-SF.COM
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BY David Wigley
BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER
Construction Begins
A
fter dreaming of building a large, 1/5-scale Bristol Beaufighter, and figuring out how I would design and build the structure, it came time to start cutting parts. To start, the entire airframe was built up. The materials used were aircraft plywood, light ply and balsa. The airframe was then sheeted with balsa and subsequently fiberglassed. Two exceptions were the rudder, which was fabric covered, and the stabilizer and elevator, which were sheeted with FliteSkin. This is a thin fiberglass sheet. I used the FliteSkin to keep the tail surfaces as lightweight as possible, yet still strong enough to handle the aircraft’s flight loads.
Parts Cutting
The best technique I have for
1
2 All the wing ribs are layed out on the plans after being cut out and sanded to shape. Note the two, long, plywood spars and the servo mounts already glued in place on some of the ribs.
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cutting out parts is to print a second set of plans. This second sheet is used to roughly cut out the ribs and formers by tack gluing them to the sheet balsa or light ply with spray adhesive. If duplicate parts are needed, I stack the sheets up and either nail or pin them together. Then I cut the parts out using a band saw. The parts are cut to within 1/16 in. of the overall dimension. Finally I use a disc sander to smoothly sand the part to the line on the plans. I then remove the paper and label the parts. I find it strange that some modelers plan out each step before they start a project. For me, this is not realistic nor is it worthwhile. I have found that the process of building your own design from scratch tends to take on a mind of its own. There are many tasks that must be completed before you can
RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013
The right inboard wing panel on the building board showing how the inboard panels were built upside down. The bottom skin was glued on next.
BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER
3
4 The left wing after the inboard and outboard sections have been joined together. The outboard panel will be sheeted before being removed from the board.
The left wing at midspan showing the outboard flap servos, front and rear spars, and three large air tanks for the retracts.
5 All four flap segments were assembled in place on the wing to ensure that they fit tightly to the wing when retracted. FliteSkin gives sharp, scale-like trailing edges.
6 move on to others. So I just get started with something and it soon becomes clear where the build goes next. I have also found that a sure way to bring things to a halt is to think too far ahead. Many times while building the Beaufighter, I started thinking about all steps I still had to do to finish the model and it became overwhelming. It left me feeling as if I’d hit a brick wall. You really have to think of it as if you’re eating an elephant: one bite at a time! I started the construction of my Beaufighter with its wings, since they would need to be aligned with the fuselage’s center section. Well actually I fabricated both main, landingFollow us on twitter @rcsportflyer
gear assemblies before framing up the wing—but then that’s another story. The main gear assemblies were needed first so they could be fitted and bolted to the wheel-well structure while the wing was being framed.
Wing Framing
So here’s how framing the huge wings proceeded: The entire wing from tip to tip consists of separate left and right wings each consisting of an inboard and outboard panel. The joint between the two panels is at the dihedral break, just outboard of the engine nacelle. Each wing has a front and rear plywood spar. These
The spar box is assembled on top of the belly-hatch datum plate with both wing spars mated to the fuselage spar box formers. Incidence meters were used to check the alignment of both wing panels.
spars slide into the fuselage and overlap so that when they are bolted together they form two, strong, spanwise spars. I wouldn’t be entirely truthful if I told you that the wings went together like a jigsaw puzzle. I spent many sleepless nights trying to figure out just how to put this monster together. The solution was to construct each wing in two stages. The inboard panels were assembled upside down on the building board, then the front and rear spars were glued in place. This allowed access to the wheel well so that the main landing-gear assembly could be bolted to the engine and landinggear mounting ribs while the inboard RC-SF.COM
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BY Gene Cope
ASK-18 Build Part 5 T
It Was Done When the Wind Flew Under its Wings
his is the last installment of my build series on my 1/3-scale ASK-18 glider. It was a pretty big project, but it gave me a lot of satisfaction in building the model, and of course in flying it. It turns out that I’ve met all my goals for this scale glider, which really started about 10 years ago when I got the fiberglass fuselage from a friend. I want to end this series by explaining and detailing just what it took to get the airplane ready to fly.
Servos
The radio-control-system installation started when I created a program in my transmitter for the ASK-18. It began as a basic glider template that I then built upon. Note that my model is fitted with a Jeti 9-channel receiver, which provided
1 A 4-40 adjustable clevis linkage provides a solid drive between the servo arm and the elevator control horn. The elevator servo plugs into a servo extension connector located in the fuselage saddle for the horizontal stabilizer.
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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013
2
control for both the ailerons and spoilers. The servos I opted to use for the airframe started with MKS DS 6125, thin-wing digital servos. They provide 113.87oz-in. of torque when powered by 6.0 volts. I centered all servos, so that they would be properly referenced with respect to the control surfaces. Then I installed the horizontal stabilizer’s servo. It was built into the bottom center of the horizontal stabilizer. It connects to the receiver by way of a servo extension, with the horizontal stabilizer’s connection in the saddle of the fuselage. The servo’s output uses a 4-40 adjustable control rod, with metal clevis, between the servo arm and elevator control horn. The next servo I installed was a
ASK-18 Build Part 5
3
4 The HS-125 MG used for the tow-release servo was mounted to blocks epoxied to the bottom front of the fuselage.
The ball-bearing-supported bellcrank removes any rudder-cable tension from the MKS DS1210 rudder servo.
The top and bottom spoilers are very effective for killing lift. They also slow the glider as airbrakes, so you must keep the airspeed up on landing to avoid a stall.
5
6 The rudder cable connection consisted of homemade “S� attachments that could be removed from the rudder horns if required.
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The MKS DS6125 thin-wing aileron servo and 4-40 control linkage provide a solid 133.87-oz torque for aileron control.
RC-SF.COM
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BY Jeff Troy
Dallaire Sportster Preparing it for Covering
I
started the fuselage construction of my Nick Ziroli Fokker Dr.1 triplane in the August 2012 issue of RC Sport Flyer, fully intending to continue that project in this present installment. However, when I learned that the magazine was doing an extra special issue for October, I decided that finally covering one of my five subject models would be the perfect payoff for the newsstand customers. With this in mind, I will show you how I prepare a stickand-former airplane like my 108-in. Shive Specialties Dallaire Sportster (pennvalleyhobbycenter.com) for covering with fabric. If you are a new reader of my “Building Model Airplanes” series, please be aware that its purpose is not to simply follow the instructions and build a collection of airplanes. My intent is to pass along many helpful hints and tips to make building these and any other model airplanes easier, faster, better and more enjoyable. Whenever the opportunities arise during construction, I will use that step to describe some little bit of information that you may find useful
1 when building your own models.
Covering Material
Preparing the Dallaire Sportster for fabric is fun and easy. There is a broad range of fabric coverings available to hobbyists. One of my favorites is Super Coverite®. I know this material on a firsthand basis because I was the product development techie for Coverite during the 1990s. If you went to any of the major aeromodeling
2
3 Before you can cover a model airplane, you must identify and repair any blemishes on its surfaces. Shop dings like this one can be corrected with lightweight balsa filler. Once the filler is dry you just do a little simple sanding.
46
trade shows during that time— WRAM, Toledo, Pasadena, Chicago, Long Beach, Timonium, Puyallup and others—you may have caught one of my live, infomercial-style demonstrations with 21st Century Film and Fabric at the Coverite exhibit. The Coverite business was sold to Hobbico® in the late ’90s, and many of its products are still available. In fact, the Dynaflite® Super Decathlon that I’m building for this series will
RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013
Try my feel-in-the-dark method to locate the errors that your eyes may have missed. Relax, close your eyes, shut out everything in the room and gently run your fingertips over every square inch of the airplane’s surface.
Dallaire Sportster eventually be covered with Coverite 21st Century Fabric. Super Coverite stayed on the books for many years, but was finally discontinued a few years ago. If you have a few rolls of this material in your stockpile, this and the following segment will give you the right excuse to get them out and follow along. If not, you can feel secure in knowing that the fabric-covering techniques I will demonstrate can be used confidently with virtually any iron-on, aeromodeling fabric. Solartex is a popular brand that works well, and of course, there’s Coverite 21st Century Fabric, which doesn’t require sealing or painting of any kind. If you don’t object to applying adhesive over your model’s airframe components before you cover them, alternate raw materials
such as Stits Poly-Lite from Chip Mull at F&M enterprises (sales@ stits.com) and Koverall from the Sig Manufacturing Company (sigmfg. com) are always first-class choices. Regardless of the material you choose, you’ll have to get your model ready to receive it. Here’s how I prepared my Shive Specialties Dallaire Sportster.
Prep Work
The Dallaire’s airframe components and all of its primary accessories have been addressed in previous installments in this series. At this point, it’s just a matter of final preparation of the built-up wood components that will receive covering: the fuselage, stabilizer, elevators, vertical fin, rudder, and that huge, undercamber wing.
4
My first—and primary—lesson is this: If you cover garbage with blue material, you will not produce a beautiful model. The result can only be blue garbage! Covering does not hide mistakes nor sloppy workmanship. In fact, it calls attention to them. Covering isn’t difficult, but bear in mind that what you cover, good or bad, is what will determine the result. The first step is a thorough, visual examination of your model’s components. Look them over carefully—every square inch of every part that will come into contact with the covering material. Are there any bumps? Glue globs? Hills or valleys? Gouges or scratches? Cracked or broken sticks? The visual examination will show you a lot about what needs to be fixed, but it’s not enough.
5 Pay close attention to joints of every type. My “feel in the dark” technique will turn up a slew of blemishes that you never knew were there. So, close your eyes and take a good long feel of the airplane.
6
Any area where sheeting blends into a leading edge, trailing edge or spar is a sure spot to check for smoothness. If you feel a bump, ding or valley of any kind, it must be repaired before you start covering the airplane.
7 If you want great looking wing covering, the structure you cover must be great looking underneath. There should never be a high or low spot where the ribs meet the leading edge, trailing edge, tip pieces or spars.
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Hobby-Lite Filler by Hobbico is lightweight and easy to apply. It comes in white, and in a light-beige “balsa” tone that’s ideal for wooden structures. Note the jar of water next to the filler tub.
RC-SF.COM
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BY Rob Caso
Competitors Part II Dave Wigley
10 Scale Questions for Top Gun Pros
“Mr. (four time) Top Gun” winner certainly needs no introduction from me. Dave has been a top scale competitor for years and most recently won just about everything there was to win at this year’s Top Gun event. I recommend hanging on his every word:
1. How do you pick a scale subject for competition? I pick a scale subject based primarily on a full-scale prototype that I am passionate about. Such efforts require a substantial time investment, so it had better be something that keeps your interest level up during the process. I try to stay away from airplanes that have been extensively modeled, but that are still mainstream enough to facilitate a good documentation package. I also consider subjects that have a number of operating features as a way to garner interest and scale points. From there, I try to design around the prototype’s operating idiosyncrasies, while still maintaining scale outline, so that the resulting model is flyable and I go to great lengths to hide RC equipment.
In process shot shows all the composite work required for the Beaufighter. Dave, how do you get it out of the shop?
Mr. “Top Gun” takes another minute to accommodate the frequent requests to pose with his model.
2. How long have you been building scale flying models? I have been involved with giant-scale models for the past 25 years. My first model was a glow-powered C-130 built from redrawn plans. It always seemed to come back with three (or fewer) engines still turning!
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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013
Competitors – Part II
Tom Wolf
L
ast month, RC Sport Flyer presented Mark Frankel’s responses to my “Ten Questions,” and for this month’s issue I managed to corner Tom Wolf and Dave Wigley.
I stalked Tom for months prior to finally meeting him at last year’s Top Gun competition. Unfortunately, he didn’t make the event this year, probably because he knew I would assault him with another blizzard of questions on his stunning, 1/5-scale Mosquito, one of my top five favorite aircraft. Here’s what he had to say:
1. How do you pick a scale subject for competition? I like to pick subjects that I find personally exciting and that are not commonly modeled. Also, I think it is important that the subject is something that will be interesting to the judges. Judges are human, and I believe that presenting an airplane that captures their attention will go a long way towards getting the best scores possible. Finally, there must be sufficient information on the aircraft to support the generation of a competitive documentation package.
Tom used blown-up Brian Taylor plans for the build of his model that took him over two years to complete.
Tom and his 124-in., 55-pound Mosquito. Power is provided by a pair of OS BGX-1 35-cc engines. The finish is Warbird Colors.
2. How long have you been building scale flying models? I’ve been interested in scale models from when I first learned to fly RC aircraft. I built my first scale model in 1970, which was a Curtis Jenny that I built from plans. Then it was a Nieuport 11 that was built from blown-up plans from a Guillows kit. I’ve been building scale airplanes ever since, and competing seriously for the last 11 years.
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RC-SF.COM
53
BY Daniel Holman
Aerobatics Part 6 Building Precision into Your Piloting
A
t the RC airfield, watching other people fly their airplanes, I am impressed with one kind of pilot. That pilot is not the one who flies as low as possible, makes the airplane flop around the sky as fast as his or her thumbs can jam the sticks, or even the one who performs the craziest looking 3D maneuver. What is impressive is a precise and consistent flying style. It doesn’t matter what type of airplane is being flown, nor what kind of maneuvers are being performed. If pilots are flying with precision, accuracy and consistency, I enjoy watching their flights. Regardless of where you are with your aerobatic pilot skills, it’s never too early to work on making your flying precise. As I said earlier in
this series, most people and judges would rather see a simple maneuver flown precisely, than a more complex maneuver flown sloppily. Having said that, let’s look at some of the specific points that make each maneuver—as well as your flying style—precise.
Wind
My brother, Michael, took this beautiful picture of the Extreme Flight 104-in. Extra 300 with Mt. Hood in the background while I was practicing for the Extreme Flight Championships last month.
Lines and Radiuses
Just as important as the aerobatic maneuvers that you perform, are the lines on which you perform them. Making these lines and radiuses precise requires not only that the airplane’s heading be right, but also that it has the proper wind correction. In all major aerobatic competitions, lines are judged not by the airplane’s heading, but by the flight path vector. In high winds, keeping the flight’s geometry symmetrical and precise requires that the airplane crab into the wind whenever flying perpendicular to it. On a horizontal line, the only axis Once the airplane is pointed into the wind, a small amount of opposite control (left rudder, in this case) must be held to prevent the tail from acting like a weathervane and pointing the nose farther into the wind.
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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013
Aerobatics Part 6
Wind
3
Top View
2 4
1 that should ever deviate from the flight path is yaw. Rolling should never be part of wind correction and the airplane should stay solidly level in both the pitch and roll axis. On a vertical line however, depending on the airplane’s roll orientation, this crabbing may be in the yaw or pitch axis. Most well-designed aerobatic airplanes self-correct in some wind conditions, but there is always plenty left for the pilot to do, especially in the pitch axis on a vertical line. One common misconception about wind correction is that the airplane always requires a control input that turns the airplane’s heading into the wind. On the contrary, once the airplane’s nose is pointed Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer
adequately into the wind, a slight amount of opposite control must be held. In other words, if you are performing a vertical up-line with the wind coming from the airplane’s left, once the nose is pointed into the wind, a slight amount of right rudder is required to keep the airplane from yawing harder than necessary into the wind. Always remember that the airplane’s tail section often acts as a weathervane and you must prevent that from happening while maintaining a straight flight path vector. Another aspect of wind correction is airspeed control on up-wind and down-wind lines. This is something that must be felt more
Performing a precise rolling circle in the wind requires lots of wind correction with airspeed. At point 1, the airplane should be flying at the slowest comfortable airspeed because of the tail wind. At point 2, the airplane’s flight path vector should have changed 90 degrees. This requires turning the airplane just past 90 degrees to correct for the wind. As soon as the airplane points into the wind after point 2, the airspeed must be increased to maintain its same groundspeed. At point 3, maximum airspeed is required and consequently, less aileron control is needed to keep the roll rate consistent. At point 4, the airplane has not quite turned 90 degrees from point 3, but the flight path vector should have been. When this point is passed, the throttle must be decreased to keep the airplane’s ground speed consistent. The last 90 degrees back to point 1 will require the most control throw and although you want to keep the ground speed constant, a slight amount of throttle is needed to keep the model’s control authority strong.
RC-SF.COM
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BY James VanWinkle
The World Models
™
TAMEcat 40 ARF
A Tame kitty That Loves to Eat Electrons Ready for action, the TameCat is an easy model to fly that delivers good performance for even the intermediate pilot to fly.
I
nspired by the F-14 Tomcat, the TameCat is a fighter that won’t bite its pilot. The World Models™ has taken a design originally created by Jeff Troy, a longtime RC pilot and contributing editor, and configured it for electric power Two lightweight pilots are included in the kit, adding to The wings are glued together with epoxy. Use tape to rather than nitro the scale look of the model. Double-stick tape lets you hold the wings together as the glue cures. The adhesive install them in seconds. sticks to the tape, so wax paper provides a barrier. methane. Jeff published his plans for the TameCat in Model Aviation magazine many years a pure pleasure to fly. throws instead of sticking with ago. It is now available as an electricIts steerable nose wheel makes those recommended. As a result, I powered, almost-ready-to-fly (ARF) ground handling very good, with had to land the model and dial out a airplane from The World Models. superb control as it rolls down the lot of throw from the transmitter’s runway for liftoff. programming. Once done, it took In the Air In the air, my TameCat did not care of the issue. When I got back Flying the TameCat couldn’t be need any control trim other than a home, I checked the model’s throws more fun. The airplane doesn’t need a bit for elevator. That was my fault as I had them set. They were just lot of runway to take off and it is just though because I maxed out the about exactly as recommended in the 66
RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013
The World Models™ TAMEcat 40 ARF
instruction manual. Someday I will learn to stick with what the experts decide is the proper setup. Other control settings were perfect as I had them set. The roll rate is pretty good—although it is tame enough to keep pilots not well experienced in aileron-controlled models out of trouble. The rudders are also effective, which they ought to be since there are two. The model didn’t quite hold a knife-edge when I tried it, though it was never intended to do so, but it was still pretty darn close to doing so. Inverted flight is simple to fly, requiring just a bit of down elevator control to hold level flight. This is pretty amazing since the wing is definitely not built
Right out of the box, these components make up all the parts that will must be glued together. This model builds quickly!
The motor has a standoff to locate the propeller adapter forward of the cowl, though a few washers are needed to get it to the recommended spot.
The deck is going to require some trim work to sit flush against the wing. I marked the trim spots with a marker, and the completed deck fits perfectly.
There is lots of room for servos and the receiver. The rudders use two pushrods, plus there is one for the nose wheel steering.
This might be an ideal platform for FPV (first person view) gear because of the room in the fuselage for gear, and the nice lifting capabilities of the model.
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RC-SF.COM
67
BY Gene Cope
Jeti DS-16 ®
State-of-the-Art Tx with Functions and Features Plus
A
few months ago I saw the Jeti DC-16 transmitter when I was at the RC airfield with friends. The transmitter’s owner gave me a quick overview of the radio’s features and functions. I was impressed by what it offered. So I started researching, on the Esprit Model website, what it provides in terms of control and telemetry. What I learned is that the new Jeti DS-16 transmitter has been designed with more functions and features than just about any other RC transmitter to date. These expand the pilot’s aircraft control beyond anything you might imagine. As a result, I decided to purchase the Jeti DS-16 a couple of weeks ago. In this review, I’ll share some of the reasons that I opted to buy this transmitter over others. One of the primary reasons I bought my DS-16 over another brand was that it offers built-in, voice-type alarms for its variometer, airspeed and GPS functions. Also, I like the idea of the transmitter having a built-in, three-axis accelerometer, which I can use for such things as tow release or pilot controls—make the pilot’s head turn and look at you. 72
RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013
The three-axis system means I need not let go of any control sticks to activate a control function. It is pretty darn cool! Also, the DS-16 has almost unlimited flight-mode configurations, which is important to any pilot who uses special configurations such as landing, 3D, thermal, etc.
What You Get
My DS-16 came in a cardboard shipping box. Inside that box was the DS-16’s box. Inside it was the DS-16’s
The new Jeti DS-16 weighs 44 oz and comes with a huge, user-friendly 320x240 pixel LCD screen that is easy to read, even in bright light conditions.
Jeti® DS-16 case, which is a rugged and durable aluminum carry-case that is adorned with the Jeti logo. Inside the case, there is the transmitter, a 110-volt wall charger, USB cables, neck strap, instruction manual, tool pouch, the case keys and a very nicely made transmitter mat that you can place the transmitter on. Note that your DS-16 comes from Esprit wrapped in plastic as a way to protect it against damage while being shipped. When you buy the DS-16 you need to buy the receivers, flight battery packs and your choice of telemetry sensors. I found that the Esprit website was very easy to navigate. Also, as I mentioned above, you can get lots of information about the Jeti transmitters from the site, as well as how-to videos. Like the DC-16, (the transmitter reviewed in the November 2012 issues of RC-SF) the DS-16 also uses metal, quad-ball-raced control sticks. The sticks use Hall sensors, which provide maximum control sensitivity. The 320 by 240 pixel LCD graphic display is built into the top of the transmitter as a slanted protrusion. It is extremely easy to read, even in bright, sunlit conditions. The instruction manual is well written. Its step-by-step instructions and illustrations are easy to follow
Jeti includes this deluxe transmitter pad that you can use to hold your transmitter up during programming or to just keep it from getting scratched and dirty.
Inside the factory’s box you will get a superbly built aluminum carry case, that is custom built for the DS-16. In it is the charger, USB cord, neck strap and transmitter. It is a complete transmitter package from start to finish.
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Your DS-16’s box will come shipped inside a foampacked cardboard box, so you need not worry about it being damaged during shipment.
and implement when programming the radio. Believe me when I tell you that programming the DS-16 is so intuitive that you almost need not use the manual. The manual does, however, provide the information you’ll need and want for some of the complex programming and special setups that this radio offers the advanced user. I’d advise you to take the time to at least peruse the manual for the basics. Then take a couple of hours to explore the highend features and functions that this Tx offers. Esprit’s website has lots of information too. RC-SF.COM
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BY Dan Deckert
TheWings Maker 50cc PaulistinHa
A Brazilian-Bred Cub
I assembled all the parts I needed to get started but still had to buy some odds and ends I forgot about.
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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013
Those little orange and red dots are your opening locators for the fuselage and tail section.
The Wings Maker 50cc PaulistinHa
I
’m just stupid for Cubs, even if they’re not technically Cubs in name. The Paulistinha was developed and built in Brazil during the ‘30s and ‘40s. It was mostly used as a civilian and military trainer, and was an unlicensed knockoff of the venerable Taylor J2 Cub (not to be confused with the Taylorcraft or Piper Cubs). The Taylor brand name eventually became Piper Aircraft in 1937. The Paulistinha possesses most of the characteristics and looks of the Cub. However, the Paulistinha does not have flaps, like the J3. It does have an enclosed cowl like the Super Cub though, so it just has the Cub-like look no matter how you look at it.
What You Get
In your kit you will get an extremely well-packaged airframe. It comes from the factory covered in Toughlon® and Lightex® in cream,
black and red for colors. All parts are individually wrapped in sealed plastic bags that are taped into the box. I was literally taken aback after opening the box and realizing just how big the Paulistinha is in wingspan. Pre-sale images do not do justice to what you’ll see before your eyes. Each parts bag is numbered, which makes for an easy reference when working from the manual. The model’s scale landing gear with inflatable tires and airfoils is a huge bonus.
Included in the Kit
• Airframe: fuselage and wings (covered) • Landing gear • Inflatable tires, with filler needle • Tailwheel assembly • Hardware package • Two aluminum wing tubes • Wing and jury struts • Interior/exterior decal set
• Scale pilot bust with mounting plate and tape • 800-cc fuel tank with clunk • Clear plastic cowl template
Needed to Complete
• DLA-56, gas-powered engine, with ignition module • Valley View 22×8 wood propeller • Hitec HS-7985MG (5) • Hitec HS-485HB (1) throttle • 36-in., heavy-duty extensions (5) • A123, 6.6-volt, 2300-mAh LiFe Rx battery • 4.8-volt, 2500-mAh NiMH (ignition) • Opto Gas engine kill switch • Miracle Dual-Switch with charge ports • Transmitter • Receiver • Fuel tubing • Fuel dot • Adhesives • Tools
Departing the airfield, my Paulistinha has the look of a full-scale airplane taking off for a training mission in Brazil. It is just an excellent-looking model airplane.
The fuselage interior is nicely made and well built, right down to the glue joints.
These nicely molded servo trays for the ailerons are a very nice touch. No building required is a bonus.
The supplied hinges and pre-cut slots are a huge time saver when it comes to building the elevators, rudder and wings.
The main gear has some beautiful, airfoil-shaped, imitation bungee covers that add some extra pop to the scale looks of the plane.
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