RC Sport Flyer July 2013 (Vol 18-07) by RC Flyer News

TOP GUN 2013 REPORT

World’s Most In-Depth RC Aircraft Magazine

AEROBATICS

PART 4 PG 58

F9F COUGAR

PLAN INSIDE

SOLIUS

E-POWERED GLIDER

Takes Soaring to a New Level

PLUS

• 4-into-1 Wiring • Tx Cases • Transmitter Tray • PVC Hangers • Corsair Warbird

JULY 2013

USA & CANADA $6.49

RC-SF.COM

PG 30

DEPARTMENTS

10 12 96 97

LEADING EDGE HOT PRODUCTS ADVERTISER INDEX MYSTERY AIRPLANE

PLAN

50 EVENT

TOP GUN 2013 Take a close-up look at three of Rob’s Top Gun Favorites from this year’s mega event. By Rob Caso

GRUMMAN F9F Check out this fun little, profile foamy EDF jet fighter that is inexpensive to build. By Dick Sarpolus

PG 68

BUILD

BUILD AN ASK-18 PART 3 This article shows you the steps for installing e-powered spoilers. By Gene Cope SPACE WALKER WINGS PART 4 Part 4 of this build series details how to finish wing tips and ready the wing for covering. By Jeff Troy FAVORITES Rob takes you into his shop to show you some of his favorite building materials and items. By Rob Caso RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

PG 80 PG 44

Picking the right building materials can make building models easier and more fun.

HOW TO

AEROBATICS PART 4 Learn how you should set up your airplane and test it to ready it for full-on 3D. By Daniel Holman AIRPLANE HANGERS See how to make ceiling hangers that will get your airplane out of harms way. By James VanWinkle TX TRAYS Read this how-to article to see if using a transmitter tray may help your RC piloting. By Wil Byers

JULY 2013

FEATURE 4-INTO-1 WIRING Discover how quick wiring harnesses are to make and how they’ll clean up your model. By Wil Byers TX CASE Take a look at how buying and using a transmitter case can give you better control of your model. By Wil Byers

CORSAIR WARBIRD This bent-wing bird may be the perfect place for you to get into warbirds. See why. By Wil Byers

REVIEW

MULTIPLEX SOLIUS Take this limited motor run glider for a flight and you’ll realize just how much fun soaring is to do. By Wil Byers

PG 22 PG 90

Dave Wigley’s Beaufighter earned him highest static and flight scores. See our Top Gun report for more.

Multiplex’s new Solius LMR glider takes soaring to whole new level. See how and why.

RC-SF.COM

MXS-R

Aerobeez 365 Cloverleaf Dr. Suite C Baldwin Park, CA 91706 Phone: 877-813-5337 support@aerobeez.com

he MXS-R, featured in the Red Bull Air Racing Series, is yet another true classic. It is a newer model with better aerodynamics. It has won many awards in the Red Bull Air Racing Series. We have put great effort into our design and built a 26-percent-scale model of this amazing aircraft to share its great flight

characteristics of speed, precision, and agility. This MXS-R utilizes a 30–35-cc gas engine for true, realistic aerobatic flights. With its lightweight, improved aerodynamic design, combined with a DLE 30-cc power plant, it is bound to excel in 3D performance. This MXS-R 26-percent-scale model comes with many new upgrades and is built to last. It allows you to reach your full potential in extreme 3D flights.

Specifications Wingspan

75 in.

Length

69 in.

Wing area

888 in.2

RTF weight

9.2–10.6 lb

MSRP

$339

A 30-cc Bravata Floats

AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net

eroworks wooden floats with reinforced fiberglass bottom are especially designed to fit the Aeroworks 30-cc Bravata, and make for quick and easy installation to get you from pavement to water in just a few minutes. Floatscan be easily adapted to fit a variety of larger-scale models. Featuring • Strong, durable, wooden construction w/ reinforced fiberglass bottom • Complete instruction manual • Complete SAE hardware included • Internal, water-rudder servo with sealed top hatch • Spring-loaded, dual-water rudders • Custom, two-tone Bravata paint scheme

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Specifications Length

56 in.

Width

32 in.

Tip to step

27.5 in.

Weight w/ servos

80 oz

Model weight

18–25 lb

HOT PRODUCTS

30-cc Bravata

AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net

pend your weekends reliving the golden age of flight with the new Aeroworks 30cc Bravata ARF QB. With its classic lines and vintage covering scheme, the 30-cc Bravata resembles many of the classic airplanes from the 1920’s and 30’s. The classic, two-tone Ultracote™ covering schemes will make the Bravata a welcome addition at any airfield. The Bravata’s flight characteristics provide stable flight for the novice pilot and spirited aerobatic flight for the experienced pilot. Featuring a two-piece wing with removable, pre-mounted struts, the Bravata is easy to transport in most vehicles. The wing also features flaps that will greatly shorten takeoff and landing lengths. The Bravata also features pre-hinged control surfaces as well as pre-mounted cowling, wheel pants, and

SebArt Avanti S Jet ARF

Thunder Power RC 4720 W. University Ave Las Vegas, NV 89103 702-228-8883 sebsrtrc.com thunderpowerrc.com

esigned by Sebastiano Silvestri to bring together pattern aerobatics and jet flight characteristics, the Avanti S is the new unlimited sport aerobatic jet. It was designed for Jet beginners, the new FAI F3S class of competition and for the 3D FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

front windshield. A complete, high-quality, hardware package featuring aluminum control horns, ball links and turnbuckle pushrods is also included. The 7075 aluminum landing gear is designed to be strong and lightweight. For those with access to large lakes, the Bravata comes float ready. A high-quality, vinyl decal set has also been included. The 30-cc Bravata can be assembled in as little as eight to 10 hours. The 30-cc Bravata has been designed around many popular 28–35-cc gas engines. Mounting templates and air inlet templates have been provided. When combined with the DLE 30, the Aeroworks Bravata is an incredible performer; the cowling has been designed to enclose the DLE 30 engine. Even a hot-airexhaust hatch has been designed into the bottom of the airplane to complete its scale appearance! Featuring • Strong, lightweight construction • Complete manual • Flat, vintage-looking tail • Two-piece wing w/ ailerons and flaps • Hidden aileron and flap servos • Aluminum wing tube

Specifications Wingspan

112 in.

Wing area

1725 in.2

Length

(rudder to spinner) 82 in.

Weight

14–16 lb

Engine

30-cc gas

Radio

5 channels min

• Strong 7075 aluminum landing gear • Strong and lightweight tail wheel • Complete, high-quality SAE hardware package Included • Professionally covered in Ultracote • Pre-glued, pin-style hinges • Pre-mounted fiberglass cowl and wheel pants • Pre-marked firewall for DLE30-cc gas engine • Enclosed engine w/ pre-installed, hot-exit air baffle • Extra Ultracote covering provided for small repairs • Vinyl decal set included • Assembly time eight to 10 hours • Optional custom cockpit available • Optional float package available

unlimited flight experience. The construction is meticulous with the Hi-Tech composite fuselage painted outside the mold and the wings and stabilizers are balsa covered with Oracover. The pneumatic aluminum landing gear and doors are included and there is an optional thrust vectoring system available. Experience the new unlimited sport aerobatic jet available only through SebArt. #SEBA200

$2,749.99-$3,959.99

RC-SF.COM

BY Rob Caso

TOP GUN 2013

IT’S A SHOWCASE OF THE BEST OF THE BEST

This photo by Scott Keating scottkeating.net

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

TOP GUN 2013

Dave Wigley’s combined highest static and flight scores yielded him both a first in Masters and the Top Gun award.

he only thing that was truly easy for me at this year’s Top Gun event was not getting lost and finding the hotel. After that, selecting models to write about just seems to get tougher every year. As I did last year, I like to focus on a few of my favorite entries so that I can cover these in a certain level of detail, rather than committing the injustice of only writing a sentence or two on everything. Admittedly, I am a bit prejudiced with WWII aircraft being my favorite, followed almost too closely by WWI. Perhaps

next year I will also cover the more modern jets in some detail. On second thought…

LOU CETRANGELO’S SPITFIRE MK IX

How can you not like a Spitfire? I spent quite a bit of time picking over Lou’s 102-in. model, an all-glass kit from Composite ARF. Far from being an ARF, as we have come know them today, such kits take quite a bit of effort to build and fly successfully. Lou’s handsome Sportsman entry, representing the most beautiful airplane ever built, was in my opinion

the best of the Spitfires at the event. Full of technical construction details, Lou went to great lengths to keep the organic lines of the Spitfire undisturbed, including fully enclosing the engine and avoiding it having visible RC equipment such as pushrods. He designed and machined, both by hand and using CNC equipment, the pair of functional, six-stack exhausts that really look the part. His airplane’s engine cooling is achieved by a complex system of baffles, channels, passages and vents, with the hot air ultimately exiting the model through the wing RC-SF.COM

BY Gene Cope

ASK-18 PART 3

y one-third-scale ASK18 is copied after a 16-meter wingspan ASK-18, designed by Rudolf Kaiser. It was the last glider to be built by the Schleicher factory that used traditional wood and fabric construction methods. It was designed to be rugged and durable, as well as to have docile handling

TOP n BOTTOM SPOILERS INSTALL

characteristics. The ASK-18 wing had an aspect ratio of 19.7 and used a NACA 633-618 airfoil that transitioned to a 633-614 at midspan. It had a glide ratio of 34 to 1, with a sink rate of 122 feet a minute. The full-scale ASK-18 also employs airbrakes that extend from the top and bottom of the wing. Since I wanted my ASK-18 to emulate the

full-scale aircraft as nearly as possible, I installed the new Maxx Products electric-powered spoilers (MX3330) in the wings of my 18. Additionally, I designed the model’s wings such that their airbrakes would extend from the tops and the bottoms. What I found during this part of the build is that the MPI MX3330 e-powered spoilers made the install

Shear webbing is glued to the back of the rear spoiler’s mount spar. It prevents wing flex and distortion when the rib segments are removed.

With the spoilers opening from the top and the bottom of the wing, they are very effective at killing lift and slowing airspeed.

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

The spoilers are shown in their open positions. You must open them to determine the offset required to have the blades open evenly.

ASK-18 PART 3

Six rib segments were removed from between the front and rear spars to facilitate the Maxx Products e-powered spoiler installation.

When I finished sawing the ribs out, a little sanding was required to clean up the spoiler bays and ready them for the installations.

quite easy. This is because they eliminate the need for servo bays and their covers—the servos and the linkages that would otherwise be required.

STEP ONE

The first step in the spoilers’ installation, after the construction of the wing frame, was to install shear webbing on the back side of the rear-spoiler mount spar. This rear spar was positioned three quarters of an inch back of the wing’s main spar. This distance was used in order to provide the proper chord-wise spacing for the MPI servos. The shear webbing prevents the wing from flexing at the spoiler locations when the wing rib sections are removed between the spars.

STEP TWO

Note that you must position

I used a hacksaw blade to cut the rib sections away. Following the edge of the spars provided a good reference for keeping the cuts straight.

Here the upper wing surface is resting flat on the workbench. I placed the spars flush with the work surface to install the top mounting rails.

the spoilers such that when they are open completely they line up vertically with each other as seen from the front. You must determine this alignment before you cut the ribs’ sections out of the wing. Because of the way the spoilers are designed with their drive motors at their root ends, their installation required a 2-1/2-in. offset in their mountings between the top and bottom units. Once that was determined, I was able to set their locations on the wing. I used a three-view drawing from a Martin Simons’ sailplane book (still available from RC Sport Flyer) to determine their positioning on the wings. Their location was then marked appropriately.

STEP THREE

Six wing-rib sections were then removed between the front wing

spar and rear spoiler spar. I used a hacksaw blade in a hand-held fixture to make the cuts. Note that the spruce spars provided a guide for keeping the cuts straight.

STEP FOUR

After a little sanding, the spoiler openings were ready for mounting their spoilers rails. The rails are made of 1/8- × 1/4-in. balsa. To mount the upper spoiler in the wing, the wing was placed top down on a flat surface with its spars resting flush to the surface. With the spoiler in position, and flush with the spars, the two mount rails were glued in position on top of the inverted spoiler flange, and to the spars. The spoiler unit was not secured in the wing at this point. This procedure was then repeated for the lower spoiler unit, with the exception that to do so the bottom wing spars must rest on a RC-SF.COM

BY Jeff Troy

SPACEWALKER II WING, PART 4

he Spacewalker II is a quarterscale model of the full-scale airplane flown by the former owners of Sig Manufacturing Company in Montezuma, Iowa. The model spans 84 in. and is intended for two- or four-stroke glow power. My Spacewalker II will be modified to accept electric power. If you are a new reader of my “Building Model Airplanes” series, please be aware that their purpose is not to simply follow the instructions and build a collection of airplanes. My intent is to pass along many helpful hints and tips to make building these and any other model airplanes easier, faster, better and more enjoyable. Whenever the opportunities arise during construction, I will use that step to describe some little bit of 38

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

information that you may find useful when building your own models. You may be enlightened by some of my ramblings, or you might feel that they merely echo what you already know. You may even have your own, better way of doing the same thing. The important point is that you can always learn something from anyone, even if it’s what not to do. In my previous three installments for RC Sport Flyer, I constructed the right- and left-hand wing panels for the Spacewalker II. The ailerons are constructed, the Lite-Ply tip ribs are mounted and the panels are nearly ready for joining. This installment will take the project up to the point where the fuselage construction must begin. Installing the Spacewalker’s plastic wingtips can be done after the panels have been joined, but because of

the model’s relatively long wingspan, the job is easier to handle while the panels are independent of one another. Start the installation by fitting the plastic tip over the LitePly tip rib, wiggling it fore and aft until it caps the rib completely. This fitting exercise was also done in the previous installment, so now it’s not much more than a double-check of your work. The Spacewalker II manual indicates that CA is a good choice for installing the tip. I agree, but I’ll be more specific. Use a slow-setting, thick CA so that you can be assured of ample working time to slide and fit the wingtip before the adhesive begins to set. I chose Bob Smith Industries (BSI) Maxi-Cure, first coating the inside perimeter of the tip because it’s non-porous and the adhesive will set slower because it

SPACEWALKER II WING, PART 4

3 Fitting the Spacewalker II’s plastic wingtips over the Lite-Ply tip ribs was done in the previous installment, so now you only have to double-check the fit before gluing the wingtips to the wing panels. If you find any areas that don’t seat correctly, use the sanding bar to get the results you need.

Use the slowest-setting CA to attach the wingtips. I chose Bob Smith Industries (BSI) Maxi-Cure to get the maximum available working time. Use an accelerator to “kick” the adhesive after the fit is correctly adjusted.

5 Sand the end of the wing to blend with the shape of the plastic tip. Use the bar sander, and be sure to bridge it over at least two rib bays so you don’t sand any shallows into the tip area. Try to avoid sanding more than 1/4-in. over the plastic tip.

cannot penetrate, then coating the perimeter of the Lite-Ply tip rib. Working neatly but deliberately before the adhesive can cure, cap the rib once again with the plastic tip. The fit should be good and require little to no adjusting, so shoot a few shots of BSI Insta-Set accelerator over the seam to hasten the curing process. You can also put a shot or two through the single lightening hole in the end rib, helping to cure the adhesive that can’t be reached from outside of the plastic tip. Use the bar sander to feather the woodwork into the precise shape of the plastic tip, bridging at least FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Use a lightweight wood filler to correct any gaps or irregularities in the wing-to-tip joint. See the text for a simple and effective way to apply filler. My aeromodeling filler of choice is HobbyLite BalsaColored Filler by Hobbico.

two ribs with the sander to prevent cutting an unwanted angle into the last cap strip. Start with no. 80 or 100 paper, and work down to 150 or 180 for final cleanup. Regardless of how carefully you’ve worked, you will most likely experience slight imperfections in the tip-to-wing fit. Choose a lightweight model filler to correct any voids. I use HobbyLite Balsa-Colored Filler by Hobbico, and I’ll show you a pretty slick way of applying it. Place a glass of water next to the open tub of filler, and park them both near the area of the wing where you want to apply the filler. Dip your

middle finger into the water and wet the wood and plastic where the filler will be applied. Now use your index finger to scoop up a bit of filler and apply it over the wetted area. You’ll find that the water will help the filler spread instead of cake on the surface, and if additional filler is needed, you can continue the two-finger application to glop it on. Glop? Yes. Neatness isn’t as important here as getting a good coating of filler over the gaps. When it looks like there is more than enough filler to cover any imperfections, let the material dry for at least six hours, preferably RC-SF.COM

BY Rob Caso

FAVORITES

IT’S JUST STUFF, BUT IT MAKES MODELING EASY

ooking back over the million or so years that I have been a modeler— both plastic and flying scale models—I have come to rely on a number of materials, tools, adhesives or whatever that simply do the job. While I could fill a book on these things and how to use them, I am going to focus on a few common and perhaps not so common things that I employ in almost every model that I make. My overriding philosophy in building is to use whatever works and, as such, I refuse to be lock-stepped into using only certain things simply because that’s what I did yesterday. As a result, I am always looking for new things

and ways to make modeling easier and my models lighter and more realistic, with the ultimate goal of having what looks like a real airplane, just a little smaller. Certainly, I will be mentioning brand names and some of these items may or may not be products of advertisers in this magazine, but I will defer to Wil in dealing with this issue! I am sure that, for many of you, there may not be any magnanimous revelations contained herein. On the other hand, if you take away a single new idea from this installment, I will view my work here as being done. Until next time, enjoy the build. Quack916@aol.com

WEST SYSTEMS EPOXY

Easy to use and never had a bad batch. I use it to make all my glass parts.

DURHAM’S WATER PUTTY

TITEBOND III ULTIMATE WOOD GLUE Ok, it does take a bit longer to dry than the usual blob of CA blasted with a gallon of accelerator. If you can last the ½ hour setup time (overnight for a complete bond), try this stuff. It is seriously strong and I use it for sheeting, former installation, cross braces, spars—you name it.

1/16-IN. FIBERGLASS STRANDS Never use microballoons for anything but a thickener with epoxy as they actually weaken a glue joint. Mix in this stuff instead for structural applications.

EVERCOAT 2-PART POLYESTER GLAZING PUTTY Sticks to anything, sands like hard balsa and feathers beautifully. Cures in 15 minutes, so work fast. Kind of heavy.

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Durham’s water what? OK, it’s actually a very dense, plasterlike material. I use it to make plugs for vacuumforming clear plastic parts, making first a female mold from vacuum-forming over a wood plug. Into this goes the Water Putty and out comes a smooth plug that’s great for clear parts.

3M BLUE ACRYL FILLER Buttery smooth to apply and easy to sand. Expensive for a reason.

FAVORITES

NITRATE DOPE

EPOXY PAINT

Yes, it still has a place in modeling today. I use it mainly to toughen up sheeting as it glues the wood fibers together. Use dope to protect thin sheeting from water-based fillers and varnish. The can even says “Aircraft Finish”— perfect! Don’t forget the thinner.

I used this stuff on my Storch 20 years ago and it still looks great. Heavy, yes, but you don’t need much to cover and it sticks to anything. DUPLICOLOR PRIMER AND PAINT In the world of off the shelf, single-part paint and primer, Duplicolor is the best. Their filler primer works great.

MINWAX POLYCRYLIC SATIN VARNISH (NOT SHOWN) Great for applying .075 ounce glass to skinned surfaces, sealing weaved covering, applying rib taping, sealing primed surfaces. May warp thin sheeted surfaces, so dope these first.

KRYLON FLAT BLACK OIL BASED ARTIST’S PAINT

This stuff sprays beautifully, sets up fast and has the perfect sheen for cockpit details.

LINING BRUSHES

I use this stuff mainly for weathering and pilots. Takes some practice to use, but blends and highlights beautifully due to the fine pigments and the slow dry time.

Lining brushes in 00 or 000 size are great for detailing. The longer ones hold a lot of paint and take the shake out of my “not so young anymore” hands. I use these things for lining between colors on a pilot or on other small details where you want the colors to pop. Shadowing, oils streaks, panel lines—it all can be done with a lining brush. See my previous “Modifying Pilot Figures” article in the August, 2012 issue of RCSF.

TESTOR’S DULLCOTE A spritz of this will dull and even out a warbird paint job. Does not affect foam and dries quickly. Mask your canopy first. TAMIYA PAINT AND PRIMER SPRAY Atomizes nicely and stays put. Use their gray primer for finishing plastic details.

RC-SF.COM

BY Dick Sarpolus

GET ON YOUR BUDDY’S SIX WITH THIS EDF FIGHTER

GRUMMAN F9F COUGAR My little EDF is quite fast, can burn up a lot of sky and it looks good when flown like a jet fighter, with its large-radius smooth turns. It is very aerobatic too.

The profile fuselage pieces, tail surface parts and the ailerons are cut from sheet foam. The wing panels are hotwire cut foam.

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

GRUMMAN F9F COUGAR

arbirds have always been popular modeling subjects. Now that we have practical, electricducted-fan (EDF) power plants, we can easily model jet warbirds. I like the early jet fighters, feeling that they were flown “seat-of-the-pants.” Then the guy in the seat had to be an engineer as well as a pilot. Grumman’s F9F Panther and Cougar are interesting designs. The straight-wing Panther first flew in 1948, and was one of the earliest Navy jet fighters. The swept-wing version came along in 1951, and was named the Cougar. However, its aircraft designation remained F9F. The Bridges At Toko-Ri movie, with William Holden, featured a Panther knocking out bridges in Korea. The fighter takeoff and landing sequences on the carrier and the helicopter recovery shots were terrific. What I’ve found is that it is easy to get information on any historic military aircraft by using the web. Although this model is only a foamy profile type, fitted with an EDF, its outline is reasonably close to scale and it can be made to look

This is the assembled airframe before equipment installation. The wing panels butt up against the fuselage sides.

This is the ELE 70-mm, electricducted-fan unit. It comes assembled with brushless outrunner motor, fan and all in place.

Closeup of the EDF unit. The EDF gets inserted into the fuselage cutout, and it is held in place with hot-melt glue.

pretty realistic. Squadron/Signal Publications has an excellent book on the F9F Panther and Cougar that provides excellent documentation. Because most of the Navy’s fighters were dark blue, I chose to do this model in the Navy, high-visibility trainer colors to make it easy to see when in flight. I’m amazed at the power of today’s EDF units, as well as their ease of use. The ELE 70-mm EDF, bought from BP Hobbies, comes with the motor installed and just needs the connectors soldered onto

The aileron servos mount in the top surface of the wing, with .047-in. music-wire pushrods to the 1/16-in. plywood control horns.

RC-SF.COM

BY Daniel Holman

AEROBATICS PART 4

SET IT UP,TEST IT, FLY IT,TEST IT, FLY IT…

remember how nervous I felt while walking my first real aerobatic airframe out to the runway for its maiden flight. I was thinking, did I forget anything during the build? What should I expect during the initial seconds of this first flight? What will I do if...? These thoughts are quite normal when you are new to the world of flying aerobatic airplanes in competition. If you thoroughly follow the instruction manuals and the tips for success I gave in the last issue, your chances for success are high!

TEST FLYING

Flying 3D aerobatics takes on a whole new level of difficulty when done in formation, but is a fun challenge! Here I am flying my Extreme Flight® 88-in. Edge 540T in formation with Ben Batts. He is flying the PAU® 88-in. Edge 540T.

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Test flying an airplane is something that must be taken very seriously and must not be rushed. I’ve seen pilots arrive at the airfield with a new airplane thinking it’s time to show off for fellow pilots. It always scares me. If you are test flying a small 3D foamy, that’s one thing, but anything bigger must be broken in well before it is wrung out. If possible, I like to test fly an airplane when I have the airfield to myself, with as few spectators as possible. This makes concentrating on the flight performance easier, and it eases my nerves a bit as well. It is also very important that you have a trusted, and preferably experienced, assistant with you to aid in any way that is needed. When you assemble the airplane at the airfield, I recommend you use a small amount of blue thread-locker on any metal-to-metal fasteners that retain flying surfaces, the canopy, etc. The thread-locker will dry on the fasteners and remain even after many flying sessions. On my gas-poweredengine airplanes, I re-apply the

AEROBATICS PART 4 thread-locker every 50 flights or so. Once the airplane is assembled, re-check all electrical and mechanical connections before starting the engine. Do so as a safety check! Regardless of whether your airplane has an electric motor, or an internal combustion engine, the first startup should be done carefully. Always keep the airplane secured against runaway, with the space around the propeller free of objects. If your airplane is powered by an internal combustion engine, I recommend running approximately a half tank of gasoline through it before you fly the airplane. During this ground-run, ensure that the throttle transitions are quick and that the idle is reliable and smooth. Also during this initial run, never open the throttle 100 percent. Then too, with the engine running, you MUST do a thorough radio range check of the control system. You must do so from every angle at the distances recommended by the radio manufacturer. Also, this is a good time to double-check all control surfaces to verify that their direction of travel and range of motion is set properly. Even though I’ve set up lots of airplanes, I still double- and triple-check the new ones, and then I usually get a second opinion/check from my brother, Michael. There is no such thing as being overly cautious when checking a remote-controlled airplane for safe operation. Once your airplane is warmed up and thoroughly checked over and tested, you can line it up for takeoff on the runway. Then you will gradually increase the throttle, while being ready with the rudder control to counter the propeller’s torque. Once you feel the airplane settling into a straight track, open the throttle to about 65 percent. On an aerobatic airplane, 65 percent will provide pulling power close to or equal to the airplane’s weight. At this power setting it only takes about a second before the airplane is ready to lift off the ground. While I don’t advise putting the airplane into a vertical climb by any means, don’t be shy with the climb angle. Because the airplane is not yet trimmed properly, altitude is safety. FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Doing pre-flight checks is a must! In this picture, my brother, Michael, is helping me go over my Extreme Flight® 104-in. Extra 300 before a freestyle flight. Notice the tail-hold mechanism that ensures the model stays in place during motor run-up.

Ground-running a new engine is a good way to break in a new power system. Here I am warming up the new Desert Aircraft DA-60 engine in my Extreme Flight® 91-in. Extra 300 EXP right before its maiden flight.

When mixing the elevator and ailerons to the rudder to accomplish perfect, knife-edge flight, the amounts of mixing will be different for each roll direction (left or right) because of the engine’s propeller torque factor (P factor).

RC-SF.COM

BY James VanWinkle

AIRPLANE HANGER HANG IT. DON’T BANG IT!

These are the typical materials used to make my airplane hangers. The materials include PVC pipe, 45and 90-degree elbows and PVC cement. You’ll also need an inexpensive saw for cutting the pipe to the proper lengths.

These are the parts used for my hanger: four sections of PVC cut to 12 inches, two sections of PVC cut to four inches, two 45-degree elbows, and three 90-degree elbows. The pipe lengths will vary depending on your airplane’s size and shape.

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

You’ll need to set the unit on a flat surface. Then you’ll configure the parts until the legs are straight and set at the proper angle to hang evenly. This step takes a few minutes to get right, but must be done before you start gluing parts together.

AIRPLANE HANGER

After a trial fit, I check the hanger for balance before gluing the parts in place. If the legs hang down, then you must bend the parts until it hangs level, otherwise your model may not balance correctly on the unit.

ost RC enthusiasts eventually acquire quite a collection of aircraft. It is inevitable since every airplane not only looks different, but flies differently too. Although our significant others don’t always understand why we “need” so many airplanes, it makes perfect sense to us. We hang them on the walls, sit them on the ground, fill the family room, storage sheds and more. There may be a better way to get your models out of harm’s way. Why not hang them from the ceiling? In so doing, you can create room for more models in your workshop and elsewhere.

For about five dollars in building supplies and a simple saw you can build one of these racks. These airplane hangers go together in minutes and definitely keep your model out of harm’s way. The suspension system will easily handle models up to about 10 pounds, though models heavier than that must be load-tested first.

MATERIALS

• PVC pipe, 1/2-in. 5 feet is needed per hanger • PVC 1/2-in. 45° coupler 2 each per unit • PVC 1/2-in. 90° coupler 3 each per unit

For use with delicate models I recommend you add a bit of foam to the hanger. Secure it in place with zip-ties. Even using newspaper will provide a good cushion against damage for the wings if nothing else is readily available. FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Before gluing the parts in place, mark each part’s position relative to the other. You will use them as assembly guides so that the hanger comes together properly. Use caution, as the glue dries very quickly and is impossible to pull apart when dry.

• PVC cement small bottle will assemble many • Ceiling Hook typical bicycle ceiling support hook • Household saw

ASSEMBLY TIPS

• Gently assemble the parts without adhesive into the hanger shape that meets your model’s needs. • Once the hanger is configured as you want and balances evenly when suspended, mark the components where each section of pipe meets the coupler. • Glue one portion at a time, working your way from one end

Avoid ever using this type of hanger! Not only is it a pain to thread around the airplane and then remove later, but the wire tends to make creases in wood or foam wings, which will scar the model when the airplane’s weight hangs on the wire. RC-SF.COM

BY Wil Byers

TRANSMITTER TRAYS

TO TRAY OR NOT TO TRAY, THAT IS THE PILOTâ€™S QUESTION

Dakota shows us how the new Jeti transmitter tray fits her and the European-designed DC-16 radio. As you can see the transmitter is supported by a well-designed neck strap. The tray is molded plastic that also fits the transmitter very snuggly.

RC SPORT FLYER â€” JULY 2013

The Jeti neck strap has four-way adjustment. When adjusted properly it prevents the tray from sliding around on your body. That means that your radio transmitter will have an extremely stable platform for you to use it on, which relates to accurate, precise control.

TRANSMITTER TRAYS

Here you see how the transmitter tray has side wings where the sides of your hands will rest. This helps stabilize your hands such that your control inputs are smooth and precise.

The neck strap attaches to two tray-support legs. At the top of the legs are three positioning holes that you can use to balance the radio as you would like relative to its horizontal position.

The wings on the Jeti tray provide easy access to the sliders and the switches, so your hand need not move to operate them. You can focus on rudder and throttle control at the same time as you flip a switch.

Again, on the right side of the tray, its wing provides you with easy access to the slider, the knob and the four toggle switches. Notice the hole in the top of the leg that you can use for horizontal balancing of the tray.

fter using a transmitter tray to aid my piloting for more than 30 years, I’m convinced they do help me. Then too, when I hear contest-winning pilots like Frazer Briggs (Tucson Shootout Champ) say that he feels using a transmitter tray helps him, I believe that many pilots would benefit from using a tray. I started using a tray when a friend started making a very basic tray. That was back in 1983. He came to one of my club’s early, scale, fun-fly events. At that time he was swearing by the use of a transmitter tray. His tray design amounted to two pieces of aluminum bent at a 90-degree FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

angle. The aluminum was spaced appropriately so that the aluminum brackets would support the transmitter. The brackets were bent at about a 45-degree angle on their tops as a way to position the radio horizontally against the pilot’s belly. I was not impressed much by his tray. However, he was a friend and he talked a good game, if you know what I mean. The result was that I couldn’t refuse his offer to give his transmitter tray a try on my radio, which I think was a Century 7 system. After all, he was giving me one that he had made and was proud to be sharing it with me. So I attached it to my radio—

honestly, I don’t remember how it fastened to the transmitter. Then I proceeded to give it a test. At first I was not impressed. Reality is that I didn’t like it. However, that day the lift was up at the slope and I wanted to log lots of airtime. Moreover, he and I were flying together, so I didn’t want to burst his design idea bubble. Additionally, I knew that pilots were using them in Europe, and doing so with much success. The result was that I kept flying with the tray for a couple of hours. By the time I was packing up to go home for a much-needed shower, I was solidly and completely hooked on using a transmitter tray. RC-SF.COM

BY Wil Byers

4-INTO-1WIRING HARNESS

SIMPLIFY WING-TO-FUSELAGE CONNECTIONS WITH THIS CONNECTOR TYPE

Start the work of making a connector by having high-quality tools such as these. You can buy most everything at Home Depot. The little torch is from Tower Hobbies as is the hobby knife, which is fitted with a #11 blade.

ing root-to-fuselage wiring connections can be extremely problematic if not done right. As they say, I’ve been there and done that! The problem arises if you have more than one servo installed per wing panel. In such cases, the number of servo lead connections that must be made at the wing root increases with each additional servo 72

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

in the wing. For example, on my new ASG-29 sailplane there are four servos in each wing. In this case, the connection at the wing would normally require four servo plug connections, which is messy as well as somewhat unreliable electrically. I’ve done it, but this is not the way to have a clean, positive electrical connection between wing servos and radio receiver. The best electrical connection

4-INTO-1 WIRING HARNESS

2 A good solder joint begins with a good mechanical connection. Start by stripping the wire with a set of sharp wire strippers. Then twist the wire together. Be sure to add shrink tubing at this point too.

4 You must also tin the pins on the connections; in this case you are looking at the main connector. Be careful to avoid having solder bridge between two pins on the connect, so don’t use too much solder.

6 Here you see the female connector with the wires soldered to it. Two servos share a common pin on the connector for the positive lead coming from the radio’s receiver.

3 I tin the ends of the wires before I solder them to the connector. Notice that the plus and minus wires from the servo are joined while the signal wires remain isolated from each other.

5 Because both the wire and the connector’s pin have been tinned with solder, you will only heat the wire until it is hot enough to have solder flow between the pin and the wire. Note the use of a vise to hold the connector.

7 Here you see the female connector with the wires soldered to it and shrink tubing applied. Two servos share a common pin on the connector for the negative lead coming from the radio’s receiver.

RC-SF.COM

BY Wil Byers

TRANSMITTER CASES KEEP YOUR 2.4-GHz Tx CLEAN, DRY AND PERFORMING WELL

Heather shows us how easy it is to pack your transmitter and accessories to the RC airfield inside Spektrum’s protective aluminum case.

on’t get on my case about keeping my radio systems clean and working well! I make certain they are well kept. In fact, I’m kind of obsessivecompulsive about it. I think you must be if you want your radio system to perform at its optimum. You see, we are not flying toy airplanes! Rather, we are flying remotely piloted vehicles (RPV)—in the purest sense of the words. It really, really bugs me when I get to the RC airfield and see fellow RCers take their airplane’s radio gear out of the trunk of their car—a place where it has been stored for the last few months. Then they throw a quick charge on the transmitter’s battery pack as well as the receiver’s pack. The next thing you know, they are flying their airplane around other pilots that could become targets for their out-of-control aircraft. Moreover, it just pushes me over the top when I look at their radio transmitter and see dirt and grime filling its gimbals, switches and sliders. I can’t help thinking to myself that this is an accident just waiting to happen. I think this way because I know definitely that electrons like to flow through low resistance circuits. It is pretty basic electrical engineering; i.e., power is equal to current square 76

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

times resistance (P = I2R). In other words if you get dirt into your radio’s component parts it could and does raise electric resistance in the circuit that the electrons must flow through, which absolutely reduces performance—in our world that means less control or radio-signaltransmission range. Also, dirt and crud in switches, sliders and on the LCD display can and will impact how they work or whether you can see what the radio’s screen is displaying. It is as simple as saying, “Keep it clean if you really want to optimize performance of your airplane’s radio control system.” Case It One of the simplest ways to keep your radio transmitter clean and safe from damage is to purchase a transmitter case. There are many to choose from, and some are custom made to fit your brand of radio.

Because I have multiple brands, I have cases for all my radios. They are a very inexpensive solution to keeping your transmitter running well. What I like about using a case is fundamental. I like them primarily because they keep the dust and dirt out of the radio, especially if I’m at an airfield or slope site that is dusty. Cases also keep the moisture out in the event that I get caught out during a rainstorm or even if it is just a foggy, damp morning. Furthermore, a case will protect the radio against

TRANSMITTER CASES

The Spektrum case is very durable, has two lockable clasps on it and includes a ribbed seal around the opening.

As you can see, my Spektrum case fits that radio, the charger, some extra receivers, bind plugs, neck strap and even extra servos.

My DX18 transmitter’s case is custom made specifically for the radio. The radio fits perfectly into its slot, which accepts the radio vertically.

Futaba’s 18MZ case is very high quality as well. It too is lockable, has a nice handle and sports the FASST logo on its side.

Here you see that the Futaba case holds the radio in its horizontal position, with foam cushioning on top to keep it tightly in place.

My Hitec RCD case is made to fit the Aurora 9 perfectly. Again, there is room for the charger, a neck strap, cables and extra receivers.

damage to the control sticks, switches and levers. I know you too have probably seen the pilot’s radio that has bent switches and even possibly bad control sticks due to FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

being dropped or crushed. I find it pretty amazing that a pilot would fly with a damaged transmitter, but then these are the pilots who think they are flying harmless toys—go figure,

right? Anyway, at least use a case to get your radio transmitter back and forth to the airfield. It will protect it while it is in the car. I like to use branded cases RC-SF.COM

BY Wil Byers

MAKE THIS ICONIC PACIFIC THEATER WARBIRD YOUR SCALE PICK

CORSAIR 50 In the air, the Corsair XF4U-1 flies as well as it looks. It will have you feeling like a real fighter pilot almost from the minute it takes off.

eveloped by Chance Vought in February 1939, the XF4U-1 started the Marine Corpsâ€™ historic path into fighter aviation. The XF4U-1 has become one of the most recognized World War II aircraft of all time, with its gull wing and big, powerful radial engine turning a huge propeller. Initial evaluations by the U.S. Navy (USN), as the F4U-1 Corsair, the aircraft proved too dangerous to operate from carriers. Pilots had a difficult time landing the Corsair on the carrier decks because of the 80

RC SPORT FLYER â€” JULY 2013

HANGAR 9® CORSAIR 50

Your Hangar 9 Corsair will come with a pilot in the cockpit, which adds much to the airplane’s realism, especially when it is in flight.

Your pilot will even have a full cluster of instruments to use while on a sortie. Much of the detail work on the Corsair has been done at the factory.

The Corsair is distinguished by its unique, gull-type wing and big, round radial engine up front. It simply stands out from the crowd.

aircraft’s long nose and aft cockpit design. A tendency for oil to spatter over the windscreen when the cowl flaps were opened for landing also doomed the Corsair from entering Navy service until design corrections were made in 1944. However, because the U.S. Marine Corps (USMC) mainly operated from land-based airstrips, they were quick to adapt the Corsair to their needs. Service for the Corsair therefore began with the USMC in late 1942. It would replace the aging Grumman F4F Wildcats. The F4U-1 FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

evolved from a fighter—piloted by famed Marine aces—to a lethal strike aircraft, tasked with fighter-bomber roles throughout World War II. The F4U-1D introduced significant design modifications to the Corsair that would become standard for future models. The “birdcage” canopy was replaced with the “Malcolm Hood” for better visibility. It also got twin-rack plumbing on its belly to accommodate dual drop tanks. The addition of drop tanks countered the removal of the wing’s fuel cells, increasing the aircraft’s combat

radius. The engine was upgraded from the stock Pratt & Whitney R-2800-8 to the -8W, which featured waterinjection. This gave the Corsair up to 250 more hp and an increase in speed from 417 mph to 425 mph. Most notably, the aircraft carried twice the rockets than it had previously, which then gave it a remarkable groundattack record. After the war, the Corsair would continue to serve with the USMC and USN during the Korean War. It was then replaced by jet aircraft. The F4U saw international service RC-SF.COM

BY Wil Byers

Multiplex has done an excellent job of designing their new Solius LMR glider, which results in good climb performance and soaring that will yield you hours of relaxing fun and enjoyment.

MULTIPLEX SOLIUS RR

RECEIVER READY,THIS BIRD IS ALL ABOUT SOARING FUN

RC SPORT FLYER â€” JULY 2013

MULTIPLEX SOLIUS RR

imited motor run (LMR) gliders take the work out of soaring. They do so because when you fly an LMR glider you no longer have to chase a launch/retrieval system in order to get the model airborne. Rather, you just hit the “gas” and go. The electric motor and propeller do the work of getting the glider to altitude, at which point the motor stops, the propeller folds and the soaring then begins. I’m a huge fan of LMR gliders. I’m a huge fan of this new Multiplex® Solius receiver ready (RR) glider too because it is absolutely one of the easiest airplanes to assemble I’ve ever owned, and because it flies well. The new Solius not only looks good coming out of its kit box, it is well made and designed. If you buy one you will discover that your money will have been well spent. You’ll get everything you need in this receiver-ready version with the exception of radio transmitter, receiver and LiPo battery pack. This new LMR glider even comes with its color scheme applied. That means all you are going to need to ready this model for flight is to add a receiver, install a battery pack and program your transmitter to control it. Even then, the airplane’s setup is basic and easy to do. You can even use a basic template in your transmitter to set up the glider for flight—no need to use a glider-specific template to fly this model. Not even—it uses the basic controls of ailerons, elevator, rudder and motor control, just like most power airplanes.

The Solius’ brushless outrunner motor comes installed, with spinner and propeller already attached. The 40-amp-rated speed controller also comes installed, however, I changed the battery’s connector.

Dakota provides a beautiful reference for the size of the new Solius glider, which sports an 85-in. wingspan and gets power from a brushless BL-O 3516-0850 outrunner motor and 12 x 6 propeller.

The receiver is buried in the fuselage behind the battery. I chose to use the Hitec Optima 6 Lite because it is small and fits the glider well.

RC-SF.COM