RC Sport Flyer Mar 2013 (Vol 18-03)

New Albatros 2.4 Makes Thermal Searching Fun Again pg 66 World’s Most In-Depth RC Aircraft Magazine

Learn

Mystique LMR Glider Powers UP for Super Soaring

• Scale Sailplane Elevator Control • Doing Routine Maintenance • Applying Decals Properly • Servo Lead Making • Kit Building

Super Stearman ARF Makes You a Park Flyer Pilot march 2013

USA & Canada $6.49

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Š2013 Horizon Hobby, Inc. ParkZone, VisionAire, AS3X, Bind-N-Fly, Z-Foam, DSM, DSM2, DSMX, E-flite, just fly., the Spektrum logo, the DSMX logo, Serious Fun and the Horizon Hobby logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. Patents pending. 38595

At Last! Sport Pilots Can Fly 3D! The NEW ParkZone® VisionAire™ 3D Bind-N-Fly® Park Flyer with AS3X® Technology Now sport pilots can realize the dream of flying 3D aerobatics without having to spend a lot of hours flying a lot of different airplanes to develop their skills. The new ParkZone® Visionaire™ park flyer, designed by the Father of 3D, Quique Somenzini, uses a unique combination of aerodynamic features and AS3X® (Artificial Stabilization – 3-aXis) technology to bridge the gap between sport plane stability and 3D agility.

Lightweight Construction and Brushless Power

Ingenious Aerodynamics

The wings are constructed of hollow Z-Foam™ material that has been reinforced with carbon fiber. This not only makes them lighter than solid foam, but stiffer as well. Quique has paired this lightweight airframe with a potent, 10-size brushless power system that delivers the awesome vertical performance necessary for extreme 3D.

The combination of leading-edge vortex generators, extended-chord ailerons and a dual-thickness airfoil provides extra stability at slow speeds and high angles of attack. Side force generators integrated into the wing also aid stability and give you extra rudder authority in knife-edge flight.

Spektrum™ AR635 6-Channel AS3X Receiver The advanced AS3X System built into the Spektrum™ AR635 receiver uses a 3-axis MEMS gyro and exclusive software developed in cooperation with Quique to counter the effects of things like wind, P-factor, turbulence and torque. It does not limit the airplane’s agility or the pilot’s control. It simply makes the model track beautifully and feel incredibly stable at every speed. As their skills progress, pilots can reduce the amount of stability the AS3X System provides or turn it off completely. But even 3D pros will find flying with it on is a lot more fun.

Go to parkzone.com right now to see the VisionAire park flyer in action and to find the ParkZone retailer near you.

Wingspan: Length: Weight: Motor: Receiver: ESC: Servos: Battery: Charger: Transmitter:

45.0 in (1140mm) 42.5 in (1090mm) 43.7 oz (1240 g) 10-size, 1250Kv brushless outrunner Spektrum AR635 6-channel AS3X sport receiver E-flite® 40A Lite Pro Switch-Mode BEC (V2) E-flite 13 g digital micro servos 3S 11.1V 2200mAh 25C Li-Po (included) 2- to 3-cell DC Li-Po balancing (included) Full-range 4+ channel DSM2®/DSMX® required (sold separately)

BNF (PKZ6580)

VISIT

Your Local Retailer

CLICK

horizonhobby.com

CALL

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN®

Today’s helis and planes need a

BiG @$$ BeC inTRodUCinG

Talon 90 esC BEC: 20 amp peak with 9 amps continuous output.

ESC: 6S max input. 90 amp ESC. Applications: Ideal for powering motor and servos in 500, 550 and sport 600 helis, and 6S aerobatic ships too.

Full Castle programmable function set.* NOW SHIPPING!

Scan for more info on Talon ESCs

*Castle USB Link sold separately.

ESPRIT l e d o m www.ESPRITMODEL.com

(1) 321-729-4287

DEPARTMENTS

BUILD

how to

10 12 80 81

28

30

leading edge Hot Products advertiser index

Elevator Control Get control of your model by making its elevator linkages tight and positive.

By Wil Byers

Keep it safe Discover why good maintenance will save you time and money.

By Jerry Smith

Mystery airplane

pg 72

We show you how the new E-flite Mystique sailplane is built as an LMR super soarer.

34

pg 44

This little WWII warbird is one that anyone can fly in a park near their home or office.

BUILD

20

26

6

SpaceWalker II Wing Part I Learn how to build a wing the way one of the masters in modeling does.

By Jeff Troy

Tips & Tricks for Applying Decals See how easy it is to use decals to dress up your scale model airplane.

By Rob Caso RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

making leads We teach you how easy it is to make custom servo extensions and leads.

By Jerry Smith

march 2013

reviews

38

FlyZone Acro-Wot This transmitter-ready airplane will get you in the air in absolutely no time.

By Dan Deckert

44

E-flite Zero Here is a WWII legend of aviation that anyone can fly in their local park.

By Jerry Smith

50

electrifly stearman Climb in the cockpit of this little park flyer for truly fun biplane aerobatics flying.

By Gene Cope

pg 60 56

pg 50

72

E-flite Mystique Power up to soaring altitude in seconds when you push the throttle up on this one.

By Wil Byers

60

66

Blade Red Bull Heli Take a break from your work and fly the Red Bull BO-105 CB helicopter in your office.

By Anthony Richards Hangar 9 P-47D This famous WWII “Jug� is now available as an ARF you can build as your next scale project.

By Steve Rojecki

Esprit Model Albatros Glide into the ALES competition and fun flying with this new LMR glider from Esprit Model.

By Wil Byers

pg 66

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

RC-SF.COM

7

Editor in Chief: Assistant Editors:

Wil Byers

wil@rc-sf.com

Tara Swanson

assted@rc-sf.com

Bess Byers, Claire Schilperoort Don Porten, Anthony Richards

subscribe @ RC-SF.com for only $24.95

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Zhe Meng

Photography:

Wil Byers Bess Byers

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Zhe Meng Bess Byers Shi Yuang

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Circulation:

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Contributing Editors: Don Bailey, Rob Caso, Gene Cope, Daniel Holman, Mike Hoffmeister, Richard Kuns, Bob McGowan, Joe Nave, Vincenzo Pedrelli, Steve Rojecki, Gary Ritchie, Mike Shellim, Jerry Smith, Jeff Troy, James VanWinkle RC Sport Flyer (ISSN: 1941-3467) is published monthly for $24.95 per year by Kiona Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Periodicals postage paid at Richland, WA and additional mailing offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to RC Sport Flyer, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004.

Office: (509) 967-0831 Hours: M–Th 8-4, Closed Fri, Sat & Sun. Subscriptions: kionasubscribe.com Toll Free (Orders Only) (866) 967-0831 Editor/Ads/Design: (509) 967-0832 E-mail: subscriptions@kionapublishing.com Fax Number: (509) 967-2400 Ask for RC Sport Flyer at your local hobby shop!

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Contributions: Articles and photographs are welcome, but cannot be considered unless guaranteed exclusive. When requested we will endeavor to return all materials in good condition if accompanied by return postage. RC Sport Flyer assumes no responsibility for loss of or damage to editorial contributions received. Any material accepted is subject to possible revision at the discretion of the publisher. Publisher assumes no responsibility for accuracy of content. Opinions of contributing authors do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher.

RC Sport Flyer will retain author’s rights, title to and interest in the editorial contributions as described above in both print and electronic media unless prior arrangement has been made in writing. Payment for editorial materials will be made at our current rate. Submission of editorial material to RC Sport Flyer expresses a warranty by the author that such material is in no way an infringement upon the rights of others. The contents of this magazine may not be reprinted traditionally or electronically without permission of the publisher.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

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graphics@rc-sf.com

Printed in the USA

WORLD FAMOUS PATTERN SUPPLIER

CENTRAL HOBBIES

www.centralhobbies.com Information (406) 259-9004 Mon-Sat: 10-6 Closed Sunday Orders only 1-800-723-5937 Fax (406) 259-4744 Prices subject to change • Shipping additional

YS FZ70 SPORT

$397.35

$319.97

The FZ70S is the most powerful 4 cycle engine of its size and was developed for sport flying as well as power demanding acrobatics. Supercharged system,fuel injected. Regulated and pressurized fuel system muffler Displacement 11.45CC Bore 27.7 mm Stroke 19.0mm Weight (engine) 455g (muffler) 33g Practical RPM 2,000-15,000

Clunk tanks are designed to keep fuel flowing at every angle in flight. Check our website for details.

LARGE SCALE FUEL VALVE (GAS) Large scale fueling valve featuring a new press on dust cover to keep dirt and oil from getting into valve. Designed to work with 1/8 id and 5/32 id tubing, this Large Scale Fueling Valve allows a higher volume of fuel to enter the carburetor and fill your fuel tank faster.

Comes complete with fueling probe.

TETTRA FUEL FITTINGS Check our website for details TETTRA TET4311 MINI-COCK BALL VALVE 3/32” $12.49

TETTRA TET4307 FOR STANDARD FUEL TUBING 3/32” FUEL T W/ FILTER $7.99

$459.97

New regulator design for ease of operation.Proven fuel injection system for a more consistent run.Ring sealed crankshaft to increase crankcase boost for more power.

Same mounting pattern as YS110FZ-S Displacement 18.73cc Bore 30.4mm Stroke 25.8mm Weight 730g

TETTRA CRANK TANKS

DUB611 $18.45

YS FZ140 SPORT

YS FZ115 SPORT

TETTRA TET4308 FOR LARGE FUEL TUBING 3/16” TRIANGLE JOINT WITH FILTER $7.99

TETTRA TET4304 FOR LARGE FUEL TUBING 3/16” TRIANGLE JOINT $10.49

This engine is very easy to operate with smooth running characteristics and the ability to run well on fuel in a variety of nitro percentages. But we still recommend YS 20/20 fuel for best results. Fits the same area as the 1.20.

Check our website for details.

ACCU-CYCLE ELITE BATTERY CYCLER / CHARGER AS EASY AS YOU WANT — AS VERSATILE AS YOU NEED! $139.99 It’s more than the newest Accu-Cycle: it’s the best thing to happen to radio batteries in years. It’s so well designed that it practically guarantees that NiCd, NiMH — even Lithiumbased packs — will receive a full, deep charge and a safe, accurate discharge.

At the same time, the AccuCycle Elite offers users unprecedented freedom of choice. Modelers can enjoy perfect charging by letting the Auto Smart Set feature calculate many settings automatically, or by creating custom routines for up to 10 packs and storing them in memory.

Lithium-pack compatible! Capable of charging and discharging 1-3 cell Lithium-Ion or Lithium-Polymer packs — or peaking, discharging and cycling 1-10 cell NiCd or NiMH packs.

Includes the Auto Smart Set feature for amazingly fast, easy and accurate results. Enter battery type, capacity and voltage, and the Auto Smart Set. Automatically calculates safety time-out, charge rate, trickle rate and discharge voltage cut-off.

Prevents overcharging with peak detection for NiCd and NiMH packs and cc/cv detection for Li-based packs, plus safety time-out and optional temperature sensor (HCAP0281) features that work with all three types!

Easy-to-follow flow charts are included that show how to manually program charge/discharge/cycle routines for individual packs.

Stores routines for up to 10 packs in memory and a wealth of data about each.

Easier to read and understand. On-screen messages feature fewer abbreviations, better explanations and units of measurement with every number — and appear on a big 2-line/16-character LCD! Offers the ability to handle one pack at a time, or two packs simultaneously — even if the packs are of different cell chemistries.

AC/DC compatible — ideal for at-home preparation or at-field recharging.

WIL BYERS

T

his month’s cover reflects an evolution in electric-powered airplanes, helicopters and of course sailplanes and gliders. It is an evolution that started as far back as 1969 when Bob Boucher introduced his electric-powered Malibu, a glider that he designed for AMA competition.

Bob’s genius in electric motors and speed controllers was followed by other innovators such as Dave Palombo of Aveox as well as Patrick Castillo of the industry-leading Castle Creations—the company that makes many if not most of the speed controllers in your airplanes, helicopters and sailplanes.

This month’s cover story and Castle Creations’ beginnings are synonymous. They are so because Patrick designed his first speed controller as a way to get more flying time in during his lunchtime breaks while working at the Honeywell Corporation as an electrical engineer. As Patrick tells it, he would escape his office at noon to fly his gliders from a field that adjoined the company’s office building. The problem was that by the time he set up the high-start he used to launch his gliders, half his lunch hour would be gone.

As a way to get more flying time he bought an electric-powered Graupner® Uhu glider. The model’s motor was either on or off, however. It used a servo to turn a switch inside the model off and on. It was a crude and rudimentary way to control the motor, but it worked.

Not satisfied with simply having the motor of his Uhu turn off and on, Patrick worked nights in his basement to build a “real” electronic speed controller for his model. He designed the circuit, built the circuit boards and even wrote the software code to run the controller. His first controller was microprocessor based and powered an 05-size “canned” brushed motor. The motor got power from a 7-cell 1300-mAh NiCad battery and delivered about two minutes of runtime.

Castle Creations now builds thousands of units a year to supply the industry with state-of-the-art controllers. They employ 200+ people to build and design controllers for the hobby industry as well as for manufacturers and the military. Castle Creations is a true success story that grew out of the need of one very ambitious modeler. Now we all benefit from Patrick’s innovative spirit.

I would say Patrick’s desire was to have a better Limited Motor Run (LMR) glider. The rest is history!

What we have gracing this month’s cover are two absolutely excellent LMR gliders. We review both gliders in our pages.

Having flown both models in very challenging conditions, I can tell you that you must read these reviews. You’ll discover that they are two very different LMR machines. Both are, however, extremely good flyers and soaring machines. The Mystique is a sailplane with “legs,” built to find lift and then exploit it, while the Albatros 2.4S/E is optimized for minimum sinking speed, which means it is ideal for very light lift soaring.

I would also remind you that summertime is not far off. With it arrive the new Altitude Limited Electric Soaring (ALES) competitions. This new format for gliders and sailplanes is rapidly changing soaring competitions forever. This is so because the new ALES devices from both Soaring Circuits and Winged Shadow Systems can now monitor and control a model’s motor runtime based on time and/or altitude. These devices are just one more example of innovations based on a need that continues to come out of the model aviation sport.

I’m betting that it will not be long before we see a Fédération Aéronautique Internationale (FAI) competition class introduced for ALES gliding and soaring—at least I hope so. If we do, we’ll see a completely new generation of gliders and sailplanes that I’m convinced will be better than we can possibly imagine. You know what that means, don’t you? It means we’ll be having a ton of fun at their controls.

I’ll end this month’s rant by saying that I am continually amazed by what comes out of this hobby. Having been a modeler since the age of five, I’ve seen many new products come to the hobby. Most often, they came by way of a single modeler’s workshop or a club’s desire for a better radio system or aircraft. If you think about what we modelers have done it is simply mind-boggling. Model Aviation has given us not only fun and competition but has helped America pioneer and conquer the skies and even space. The innovation in this hobby never ceases to amaze me.

APC Competition propellers for the intermediate and

advanced sport flyer as well as the competition community.

Over 400 pitch/diameters available ranging from slow-flyer electric to High performance Giant Scale Racers.

Visit the APC Prop Website for product selection and detailed information on product design and features.

LANDING PRODUCTS All propellers are in stock and overnight delivery is available.

Proudly made in the USA

10

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

1222 Harter Ave., Woodland, CA 95776 (530) 661-0399 est. 1989 by Mr. Fred Burgdorf

Hot New Gliders From Competitive Pricing • Superb Service & Support

Online & Phone Ordering • World-Wide Shipping

NAN Xplorer 4.0

FOSA F3B

Valenta 1/3 Fox

Orion F5J/ALES/LMR Stobel V3 DHLG

AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR:

(626) 967-6660 Monday - Friday 9am - 4pm, PST E-Mail: info@soaringusa.com

Aerobeez 50CC Slick 540 3D ARF

Aeroworks 30CC Freestyle Extra 260 QB-L

Aerobeez 365 Cloverleaf Drive, Suite C Baldwin Park, CA 91706 Phone: 877-813-5337 aerobeez.com

AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net

D

esigned with the demanding 3D pilot in mind, the Aeroworks 30-cc Freestyle Extra 260 QB-L (Quick Build-Light Series) features many exciting and revolutionary concepts that are sure to make it the hit of your hangar. The 30-cc Freestyle Extra 260 QB-L is the second airplane in our new QB-L Series and is sure to impress with its lightweight build quality, impressive airframe strength and longevity.

All accessories are designed to be rigid and strong while providing the lightest weight possible for an airplane this size. Ball links have been provided for the smoothest in control surface movement while still allowing for 50+ degrees of surface deflection on the ailerons and rudder with over 55 degrees of deflection

12

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

T

his beautiful, 30% Slick 540 is one of the newest and best flying machines in our inventory. The Slick 540 is modeled after the modified version of the Slick 360, which uses a bigger engine. The 30% Slick 540 is designed to conquer the most difficult 3D maneuvers while keeping precision in check. It is very responsive and corresponds very well under the pilot’s input.

The checkerboard pattern on the bottom aids in differentiating the orientation of the plane, making it suitable for either a sunny or overcast day. The look is very unique, and performance is unmatched in its class. With a 50-cc engine this plane will fly like a monster.

on the elevator! Engine mounting templates have been provided for the DLE 30, making installation simple even for the first-time gas pilot.

The airframe itself features a large wing to provide an incredibly low wing loading, perfect for stable 3D flight. The new wing design also features both inboard and outboard Side Force Generators (SFGs); these are premounted and can be removed in seconds if desired. Along with the new wing design are the air-foiled tail surfaces that provide great control authority even at low speeds.

• Strong, lightweight construction • Removable two-piece stabs and wings • Carbon landing gear, wing/stab tubes and double-truss non-flex control horns • Complete high-quality SAE hardware package • Premounted canopy with quick release latch • Professionally covered in UltraCote®, with extra

Specifications Wingspan

87 in.

Wing Area

1426 in.2

Length

83 in.

Weight

15–17 lb

Engine

50- to 60-cc gas

Price

$519.00

• Two-piece removable wings and stabilizers for easy transit • Fully symmetrical tail wing airfoil • Ball linkage control system • Carbon fiber wing tubes • Carbon fiber landing gear • Cowl has cowl ring built in to conceal the screws for a more elegant appearance • All hardware included • Built-in canister tunnel

Specifications Assembly Time

6–8 hours

Wingspan

79 in.

Wing Area

1175 in.2

Length

69 in.

Weight

10.5–11 lb

Engine

30- to 35-cc gas

Radio

4 channels

Price

$499.95

covering for small repairs • Pin-style hinges preglued from factory • Large control surfaces double beveled for maximum throw • Premounted fiberglass cowl and wheel pants • Custom throw deflectors • Custom decal set • C.G. Buddy for quick and accurate balancing

HOT PRODUCTS

Hangar 9 Horizon Hobby Messerschmitt Bc 4105 Fieldstone Road 109F-2 60 ARF Champaign, IL 61822

Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

T

he Hangar 9® Messerschmitt Bf 109F-2 60 plane brings the nimble WWII weapon of the German Eastern front to a .60–size warbird that’s as comfortable to fly as a sport model. Its wing incorporates two Selig airfoils designed for use in RC model warbirds, as well as just the right amount of washout so that you can groove at high speeds yet still settle in for graceful landings. Its all-wood structure features construction methods that allow complex curved surfaces to be fully sheeted, which makes the airframe not only as light as possible but also exceptionally complements the accurate scale outline. Other scale details include printed UltraCote® film covering with authentic color and markings, operational scale four-section flaps and the option to add E-flite® electric retracts that raise the warbird

Parkzone VisionAire BNF

Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

T

he ParkZone® VisionAire™ park flyer is specifically designed for sport pilots by 3D pioneer Quique Somenzini. Its wings are constructed of hollow Z-Foam™ material that has been reinforced with carbon fiber to create structures that are stiffer and lighter than solid foam. This rigid, lightweight airframe is paired with a powerful 10-size, 1250-Kv brushless motor that delivers the vertical performance you need for an

experience to ace level.

Whether you’re a sport modeler or a die-hard warbird critic, the Hangar 9 Messerschmitt Bf 109F-2 60 is the fighter experience you’ve been waiting for.

• Accurate scale outline and all-wood construction • Authentic “Black 8” JG 54 paint scheme • Durable UltraCote® covering custom printed with a flat finish, authentic camouflage and panel lines • Airfoil-shaped tail surfaces • Authentic four-section flap system allows a greater range of speed and maneuverability • Engine exhaust details easily attach to the onepiece, painted fiberglass cowl • Fixed-wire landing gear and scale wheels • Power option for electric power • Optional E-flite® 81-degree electric retract system

exhilarating 3D flying experience.

What makes the VisionAire model such a great 3D plane for sport pilots is the advanced AS3X® (Artificial Stabilization—3-aXis) System built into its AR635 receiver. The AS3X System works behind the scenes to counter the effects of wind and turbulence, using three-axis sensing and flight control software tuned by Quique Somenzini. If you’ve never flown 3D before, this enhanced stability will give you the confidence you need to try high alpha maneuvers like harriers, hovers, torque rolls and more.

You can adjust the amount of stability the AS3X System provides or turn it off completely, but even 3D pros will find flying with it on feels completely natural. There are no delays in control response or limits on the control throws. You’ll simply feel like you’re flying an expertly tuned model that goes right where you point it.

• Clear belly window for monitoring AS3X System status • Leading-edge vortex generators • Double-beveled hinges for large control surface throws • Durable wire landing gear

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Specifications Wingspan

64.0 in. (163 cm)

Wing Area

678.5 in.2 (43.8 dm2)

Length

59.0 in. (150 cm)

Weight

10.25–11.5 lb (4.7–5.2 kg)

Radio

5+ channels

Servos

3 standard, 4 mini

Price

$349.99 (HAN2785)

Specifications Wingspan

45.0 in. (114.3 cm)

Wing Area

539 in.2 (34.8 dm2)

Wing Loading

11.7 oz/ft.2 (35 g/dm2)

Length

42.5 in. (108.8 cm)

Weight

43.7 oz (1240 g)

Engine

10-size BL10 1250-Kv brushless outrunner

Radio

AR635 6-channel DSMX® AS3X® sport receiver

Servos

(4) 13 g digital high speed

ESC

40-amp Lite Pro Switch-Mode BEC brushless

Battery

11.1-V 3S 2200-mAh 25C LiPo

Price

$299.99 (PKZ6580)

and large wheels for flying off grass • Two-piece wing for easy transportation and repair • Sharp Mirco Pecorari signature trim scheme • Includes 2- to 3-cell DC variable rate charger • Requires a full-range 4+ channel DSM2®/ DSMX aircraft transmitter, sold separately RC-SF.COM

13

Graupner High-Voltage Brushless Servos

Graupner-USA 7350 South Tamiami Tr, Suite 80 Sarasota, FL 34231 Phone: 941-925-9653 graupner-usa.com

T

he high-voltage brushless servo (HBS) combines the performance of brushless technology with all the advantages of the high-voltage servo. In addition to the unparalleled acceleration, greater efficiency and no wear of carbon brushes, these servos can be supplied with an operating voltage of 8.4 V. Direct connection of two-cell LiPo battery packs is now possible with no problem; in addition, these servos also provide

E-Flite 60–120 81-Degree Strut-Ready Main Electric Retract

Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

A

dd the realism of functioning retracts to your 60- to 120-size airplanes. The completely self-contained E-flite® retract systems require no air tanks, complex linkages or even extra servos. They simply need to be bolted into place and plugged into the receiver. They perfectly complete the scale look of the Hangar 9® Bf-109 F-2 60 ARF (HAN2785).

Radio Carbon Art Electric Sailplane Clinic 2 DVD

Radio Carbon Art PO Box 464 Lewisburg, PA 17837 Phone: 888-834-2261 radiocarbonart.com

T

he new Electric Sailplane Clinic 2 training DVD teaches you essential advanced building and technical skills required for converting, testing and optimizing electricpowered sailplanes and gliders. This twohour, intensive training DVD taught by glider expert Paul Naton will help you pick the right power system and supporting equipment for your glider and get it installed safely and professionally. The easy-to-understand tutorials and demonstrations shot on highdefinition video will help you quickly learn

14

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

top performance at an operating voltage of just 6 V. Precision manufacturing and assembly and top component quality provide the servo drive system with uncompromising power and speed. The HBS introduces a new dimension in the combination of power, speed, acceleration, precision and resolution.

HBS 660 BB, MG no. 7980 HBS 770 BB, MG no. 7986

• Very strong and high-quality allaluminum design • Capable of using optional struts or included wire struts for better ground handling and scale appearance • Built-in over current protection safely shuts down if system binds • Adjustable axles included • Y harness included Price $159.99 Stock # EFLG509

how to get your electric glider in the air and get the performance you expect.

Tutorials include advanced speed controller programming and data collection, motor installation techniques, propeller performance calculations, static power system testing and sailplane conversion tutorials. Also covered in detail are battery performance tracking, choosing the right motor, propeller and gearbox combination, 2.4 receiver installations and pre-flight testing and data collection for performance evaluation.

Radio Carbon Art’s Electric Sailplane Clinic DVDs 1 and 2 will help you better understand

and use electric power systems with modern sailplanes, helping you avoid costly equipment failures and crashes.

Price $24.95 Runtime 110 min

HOT PRODUCTS

Hangar 9 89-in.

Extra 300 MidWing ARF

Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

C

arden Aircraft are legendary in the unlimited aerobatics realm. The Hangar 9® Carden Edition 89-in. Extra 300 Mid-Wing is a compact version of the renowned 126-in.

Carden Extra with the first-class satisfaction of a Hangar 9 ARF. Now RC pilots that favor the 50- to 60-cc gas engine can have the thrill of flying a thoroughbred branded for uncompromised precision and hardcore 3D capability.

You get a highly prefabricated and lightweight airframe, ruggedly constructed with a hybrid Carden/Hangar 9 method, then brilliantly finished in genuine UltraCote® coating. Fast-build features include an

assembled fuel tank, installed hinges and control horns with the hinge lines sealed, just to name a few. The firewall is drilled and set to accept the DA-60-cc gas engine, and an optional electric motor installation kit is available separately. Also included are topquality, durable components like a fiberglass cowl, wheel pants, cuffs and lightweight aluminum landing gear.

Specifications

• True Carden Aircraft design • Hybrid Carden and Hangar 9 construction techniques • Balsa sheeted, foam-core wings, stab and fin • Factory-installed fuel tank and plumbing • Sealed hinge line • Plug-in wing and stab for ease of transportation to the flying field • Painted lightweight pilot • SFGs included • Complete high quality hardware

Specifications Multiplex Razzor Electric Racer

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

T

he Multiplex Razzor is one of the most fun and daring aerobatic aircraft available.

The Razzor is the latest in a line of compact, electric racing planes whose modern looks and demanding agility command the skies.

Built with Elapor foam and carbon-reinforced wings and tail, this lightweight aircraft maintains robust, structural strength while zipping through the clouds with incredible

Wingspan

24.4 in.

Wing Loading

10.8 oz/ft2

Length

23.4 in.

Weight

10.6 oz

Price

$174.99 (M264280)

precision and maneuverability. Its large fuselage hatch allows handy access for easy maintenance, while the removable wing provides compact transportability. Armed with a high-performance brushless motor and efficient speed control, the Razzor is the quintessential racing air machine. Fly on the cutting edge with the Razzor!

Wingspan

89.0 in. (225 cm)

Wing Area

1429 in.2 (92.2 dm2)

Length

85.0 in. (215 cm)

Weight

18–21 lb (8.2–9.5 kg)

Engine

50- to 62-cc gas

Radio

4+ channels

Servos

6–7 (5 for EP)

Price

$779.99 (HAN4625)

Jeti Spare Gimbal Assemblies

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

S

pare gimbal assemblies are now available!

These all-metal transmitter gimbals have Hall sensors (4096-step resolution) and nine ball bearings for precision movement.

Assemblies are available as Centered or Throttle.

Price: $210.00

• Carbon-reinforced wings and tail • Removable wing for easy transport • Large fuselage hatch for quick and easy maintenance • Full aerobatic capability • Receiver-Ready version includes brushless motor, ESC, propeller, flight battery and servos

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

RC-SF.COM

15

Jeti Duplex EX R18 and EX R14 2.4-GHz Receivers w/ Telemetry

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

D

uplex’s revolutionary, fully digital 2.4-GHz frequency-hopping radio system is fully designed and manufactured by Jeti Model in the Czech Republic. The full line of Duplex EX receivers is part of the most advanced radio system on today’s market. Every receiver comes with a programmable failsafe and digital telemetry.

One of the most attractive features of the Duplex 2.4-GHz line of products is the full integration with all Duplex telemetry sensors. You can easily observe up to 40 different parameters in real time directly on the transmitter. Or, by using the JetiBox Profi (sold separately), you can see your data in

Precision Aerobatics Katana MX ARF

Precision Aerobatics 113 N Market Street Winamac, IN 46996 Phone: 770-292-9122 precisionaerobatics.com

P

recision Aerobatics is proud to present the second release in the NEXT Generation PA planes. The Katana MX will do it all—from precision to high energy to graceful slow and low 3D. Being a NEXT Generation PA plane means the KMX sustains more energy when flown and by doing so keeps higher flight speeds, which is vital when performing consecutive

16

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

parallel mode, giving you and your copilot valuable real-time information.

With any of the Duplex 2.4-GHz receivers you can simultaneously monitor all your sensor data using the Duplex JetiBox Profi or Jeti 2.4-GHz Transmitters.

Duplex EX R18

Duplex EX R14

Type

Spread-Spectrum/ Frequency Hopping

Spread-Spectrum/ Frequency Hopping

Modulation

2.4-GHz w/Telemetry Data 2.4-GHz w/Telemetry Data

Upgradeable

Via USB or JetiBox

Via USB or JetiBox

Channels

18

14

Range

Full Range

Full Range

Voltage

3.2–8.4V (2S Li-poly)

3.2–8.4V (2S Li-poly)

Dimensions

62 x 38 x 16 mm

62 x 38 x 16 mm

Price

$160.00 (JETIR18US)

$130.00 (JETIR14US)

aerobatics or freestyle maneuvers, and allows sharp and quick turns, resulting in the most impressive and breathtaking transitions. Yet it can just as well be flown like a big foamy when slow 3D and high AOA maneuvers are executed.

Built using the finest grade material, cut by state-of-the-art laser and CNC machines and utilizing the very latest FiberFusion® building techniques, the KMX is incredibly lightweight and rigid. Due to the huge control surfaces, featherlike weight and incredibly low wing loading, the KMX is a floater and will respond immediately to your stick inputs. It has so much power that it’s easy to get out of trouble—which is crucial when flying slow 3D. This is the reason PA specifically designed this model with a very high thrust to weight ratio. You can easily execute hands -off harriers and elevators with just a few clicks of throttle, thus making harrier landings super easy even in slight wind. The ability to execute harrier landings makes it ideal for flying in fields with

Specifications Wingspan

57 in. (1448 mm)

Wing Area

749 in.2

Length

56.34 in. (1431 mm)

Engine

PA Thrust 50 outrunner motor

ESC

PA Quantum 70A Pro

Battery

(2) 11.1-V 2200-mAh 20-40c LiPo

Price

$299.95

exceptionally small landing strips.

Regardless of your piloting level, this plane will bring a smile to your face. If you are a beginner to intermediate looking for sport flying, or perhaps starting on 3D you’ll be amazed by how forgiving this plane is when it comes to flying beyond the stall! While others would have stalled and eaten dirt you will still be happily flying.

• Available in four color schemes • Also available in the KMX iPAs Power package ($679.95) • Also available in the KMX iPAs Drive package ($479.95)

HOT PRODUCTS

Spektrum 6-Channel AS3X Sport Receiver

Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

B

ring a whole new dimension of precision and stability to your 3D or sport flying experience with the first six-channel, fullrange receiver with AS3X® technology for park flyers, sport aircraft and 3D planes—the Spektrum™ AR635 sport receiver. Its built-in AS3X (Artificial Stabilization—3-aXis) System counters the effects of wind and turbulence using three-axis sensing and exclusive flight control software tuned by world-famous RC pilot, Quique Somenzini. There is no delay in control response or limits on the control throws. You’ll simply feel like you’re flying an expertly tuned model that does exactly what you want it to.

No special interface or transmitter programming is required. All adjustments to the type and amount of stability the

AS3X System provides are made using LED indicators on the receiver and your transmitter’s control sticks. You also have the option of flying with the AS3X System off, but even expert pilots will find that flying with it on feels completely natural. The AR635 is not to be used with nitro-, gas- or turbinepowered aircraft.

• Combines the security of DSM2®/DSMX® technology with the precision of the AS3X® System • Designed for park flyers, sport planes and 3D airplanes up to 90-size electric airplanes • Compatible with all Spektrum™ DSM2/ DSMX and JR® DSM® transmitters • Three AS3X System settings: Sport, 3D with non-computer transmitter, 3D with computer transmitter • Fully adjustable, dual gain settings for aileron, elevator and rudder

Specifications Channels

6

Band

2.4 GHz

Length

2.2 in. (56 mm)

Width

0.8 in. (21 mm)

Height

0.5 in. (14 mm)

Weight

0.5 oz (13.2 g)

Voltage Range

3.5–8.5 V

Price

$119.99 (SPMAR635)

2013 Alpine Soaring Adventure July 4–7 FMI: alpinesoaring. com

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We have the hardware you need at a fraction of retail!

Order today at:

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RC-SF.COM

17

HobbyZone Glasair Sportsman RTF

Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

T

he HobbyZone® Glasair® Sportsman® airplane is a four-channel model that anyone can learn to fly. Even if you’ve never been at the controls of an RC model before, the smooth control and assistance provided by this RTF’s sophisticated electronics make RC flight simple and fun. Champion pilot Mike McConville designed the Glasair Sportsman model to be beginner friendly, which means it’s extra tough so you can keep flying longer.

It is loaded with other great features that make it an outstanding first plane.

• Versatile Spektrum™ DSMX® transmitter can also be used to fly other BNF aircraft (sold separately) • Progressive Virtual Instructor™ technology makes learning to fly easy • Brushless electric power delivers smooth, efficient and quiet performance • Impact-resistant, durable Z-Foam™ construction • High-capacity Li-Po battery provides long flight times on a single charge • Tricycle gear provides easier handling on the ground

Specifications Wingspan

54.6 in. (139 cm)

Length

35.5 in. (90.5 cm)

Weight

33.5 oz (950 g)

Radio

DX4E 4-channel DSMX® transmitter

ESC

18 amp

Battery

3S 11.1-V 1300-mAh LiPo

Price

$249.99 (HBZ7600)

• Easy to assemble in minutes • Everything you need to fly is in the box • Full four-channel control with working throttle, ailerons, elevator and rudder

Secraft Ignition Tray Holder

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

Jeti Dual Receiver Input Switch Enlink 2RS

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

be directly programmed using the JetiBox. The Jeti EnLink 2RS is designed to significantly increase the safety and reliability of radios systems by using them in parallel configuration. It is ideal for teaching and training students using two different radio systems.

E

nLink 2RS is essentially an intelligent dual input receiver switch for servo power signals and power supplies. Intended primarily for operation in models where two receivers are connected in parallel configuration, EnLink 2RS safely and reliably eliminates signal losses on individual inputs. In case of complete signal failure, EnLink 2RS goes into a default (FailSafe) mode. All features of the EnLink can

Specifications

T

he ignition tray holder from Secraft is crafted out of aluminum and comes complete with two anti-vibration mounts.

It’s great for keeping your device secure!

Ignition tray holders are available in a red or blue color scheme.

Price: $25.00

18

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Max Input Voltage

8.4 V

Min Input Voltage

5V

Current

3-A continuous; 12-A peak

Dimensions

38 x 12 x 6.5 mm

Weight

11 g

Price

$39.00 (JETIENLINK)

HOT PRODUCTS

Parkzone UM P-40 Warhawk BNF

Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

F

rom 1941–1944, the P-40 Warhawk took the fight to the Axis powers on multiple fronts in a variety of roles. But no role is more famous than the one it played with the Flying Tigers in China. Officially dubbed the American Volunteer Group, the Flying Tigers earned their legendary nickname by using the P-40 with devastating effect against superior numbers of enemy aircraft. Their exploits, along with the menacing, shark-toothed grin they painted on their planes, made the P-40 an air combat icon.

This Ultra Micro Series model is a thrilling recreation of the P-40 that you can fly almost anywhere. It comes equipped with the advanced AS3X® (Artificial Stabilization—3-

Futaba S.Bus 7.4-V Digital Servos

aXis) System that works behind the scenes to smooth out the effects of turbulence and torque. You’ll feel like you’re flying an expertly tuned, giant-scale model that does exactly what you want.

You can have this Bind-N-Fly® version flying in the time it takes to charge the battery and bind its receiver to a four-channel DSM2®/ DSMX® aircraft transmitter.

Specifications

• • • •

Molded panel lines Three-bladed propeller Gun, exhaust and instrument panel details Realistic Flying Tigers trim scheme • Removable landing gear with steerable tail wheel • Includes one-cell DC charger • Requires 4+ channel DSM2/ DSMX transmitter

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

F

utaba introduces its new S.Bus digital 7.4-V servos.

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

Size

Price

20–24 in. (510–610 mm)

$11 for single $21 for pair

25–29 in. (635–735 mm)

$11.50 for single $22 for pair

30–34 in. (760–865 mm)

$12.50 for single $24 for pair

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

15.8 in. (40.1 cm)

Length

13.6 in. (34.5 cm)

Weight

1.6 oz (45 g)

Engine

8.5-mm brushed

Radio

4+ channels

Battery

3.7-V 1S 150-mAh LiPo

Price

$99.99 (PKZU1980)

Servo

Torque

Speed

Dimensions

Weight

Price

S3070HV MG

80.5 oz/in. @ 6 V 90.3 oz/in. @ 7.4 V

0.17 sec/60o @ 6 V 0.15 sec/60o @ 7.4 V

40 x 38 x 20 mm

49 g

$59.00 (FUTM0716)

S3071HV MG High Torque

139 oz/in. @ 6 V 146 oz/in. @ 7.4 V

0.19 sec/60o @ 6 V 0.17 sec/60o @ 7.4 V

40 x 38 x 20 mm

49 g

$54.00 (FUTM0717)

0.17 sec/60o @ 6 V 0.15 sec/60o @ 7.4 V

40 x 38 x 20 mm

49 g

$39.00 (FUTM0718)

S3072HV High 80.5 oz/in. @ 6 V Torque 90.3 oz/in. @ 7.4 V

Secraft Propeller Covers

Wingspan

V

ersatile design makes Secraft propeller covers useful as a protective transport cover on the aircraft or as a bag to protect your replacement propellers. Large inside tolerances allow each size to cover a wide range of propellers. Thanks to the construction and special material used in the inner side of the cover, they do not fall off the propellers, so there is no need for binding tapes or Velcro to hold the covers on.

Universal propeller covers are made with a

contoured shape and non-slip internal lining that prevents them from sliding off your propeller. They are available in gray or white.

RC-SF.COM

19

By Jeff Troy

Sig Mfg. Co. Spacewalker II Wing, Part 1 Get Started with Building Wings—It’s Easy

1

2 Many of the sticks and sheets in the Spacewalker II kit are similar in size but not exactly the same. Use a good ruler, at least 40 in. long, to measure and pick the sticks and sheets that are needed to construct the model’s 84-in. wing.

20

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Sand the backs of the die-cut balsa and Lite-Ply sheets to help the parts break free more cleanly and easily. I keep a shop-vac within easy reach to keep my bench neat and tidy while I work.

Sig Mfg. Co. Spacewalker II Wing, Part 1

3

4 If any tabs or bits break off the die-cut parts as you free them from their sheets, a dot of gap-filling CA and a shot of accelerator are all you need to reattach them.

Sometimes die-cut rib notches are not quite true. If that’s the case, clean them up with a #11 hobby blade in a #1 knife handle.

6

5 Using no adhesive, trial-fit the appropriate spars into the rib notches to check each one for an accurate fit.

T

he Spacewalker II is a quarterscale model of the full-scale airplane flown by the former owners of Sig Manufacturing Company in Montezuma, Iowa. This model spans 84 in. and is intended for two- or four-stroke glow power. My Spacewalker II will later be modified to accept electric power. Framing the tail feathers was shown in the September 2011 issue of RC Sport Flyer, then the model was placed in the line while I caught up with several sets of wings and fuselages for some of the other aircraft in this series.

Preparation for constructing the Spacewalker wing begins now.

Several steps are outlined in the manual before the spars are laid down and the wing panels are actually built over them. These steps Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Final cleaning of the notches can be done with a 1/4-in. tapered square file. This tool is the right pick for cleaning notches in ribs, formers and other airframe components.

are the subassemblies, consisting of adding the spar doublers, two rib #1 doublers and four rib # 3 doublers.

Before tackling these subassemblies, however, I have a few suggestions that might get you better prepared for constructing this big, beautiful wing.

The Spacewalker II kit is an engineering accomplishment, only exceeded by the thoroughness of its instruction manual. The first thing you’ll want to do is separate the wing parts from those needed for the rest of the model. As you leaf through the manual section that addresses wing construction, you’ll appreciate how every spruce and balsa stick, as well as every plain sheet of balsa is called out for its placement into the airplane and its size. A 40- to 48-in. metal straightedge is a necessity to

correctly identify each piece and prevent confusing it with other similarly sized but not exactly sized pieces in the kit. I found a nice 40-in. metal ruler at a local Harbor Freight store, and the price made the tool irresistible.

When the sticks and plain sheets have been identified and separated, start going through the die-cut LitePly and balsa sheets in the kit. The W-1, W-2 and W-3 ribs are all cut into balsa sheets. The W-1a, W-3a doublers and WTIP ribs are in two Lite-Ply sheets. The two dihedral braces are also provided in a lasercut plywood sheet. The die-cutting in the Spacewalker II kit is top notch, but if you haven’t followed my earlier installments, you’ll appreciate knowing that the parts will come out RC-SF.COM

21

7

8 Stevens AeroModel sells double-sided sanding pads, ideal for cleaning any remaining fuzz from die-cut parts without the tedium of sanding it off. These rugged, no-dent Stevens pads have 120 grit on one side of the pad and 240 grit on the other.

even cleaner if you sand the back of each sheet before popping out the parts. Cut and attach a strip of #100 grit sandpaper to the back of an ADC Tee-Bar or Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sander, flip the die-cut sheets over and sand them with moderate pressure. Always hold the sanding tool at a 45-degree angle to the sheet to prevent snagging the sander and damaging the sheets.

No matter how careful you are, it’s always possible to break a part or two when separating them from their carrier sheets. I did pretty well with my Spacewalker, only breaking the tail leg away from one of the W-3 ribs.

These legs are partially cut through to make them easier to remove after

All the die-cut parts have been removed from their Lite-Ply and balsa sheets. The wing tip ribs and dihedral braces will be used later, but the other parts will be used for three subassemblies prior to actually framing the wing panels.

the wing has been framed, so don’t get carried away with the CA if you have to reattach one. Just a single drop of gap-filling CA and a quick shot of accelerator will do nicely.

Regardless of how carefully a die-cut sheet is processed by the manufacturer and separated by the builder, it’s likely that a few spots will require a bit of trimming. I use a fresh #11 blade in a #1 knife handle to dress up any areas that don’t break away cleanly. Several ribs had small sections in the lower notches that needed help, and it only took a few minutes to get the notches right. As you finish trimming each rib, fit the various-size spars into the notches to determine that no additional material

9

needs to be removed. I do the final cleanup with a 1/4-in. tapered square file, which is perfect for notches in ribs, formers and other components.

When the die-cut parts have all been properly prepared, you can clean any remaining fuzz from the edges with a sanding pad. Sanding pads are available from a number of sources, but my absolute favorite is the pad offered by Bill Stevens at Stevens AeroModel (stevensaero. com). This double-sided pad has a 120-grit surface on one side and 240-grit on the other, and the sturdy, resilient foam center doesn’t dent.

Nothing takes the place of a quality aluminum sanding block, but when a softer touch is needed, you’ll love the

10 The W-1 and W-3 ribs and doublers are shown here, joined with BSI 15-minute epoxy and clamped together while curing. Read the text to see where a less-than-perfect me was not properly prepared for the job.

22

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Making saw cuts is easy, but making 90- or 45-degree cuts is even easier with the help of an inexpensive miter box and a fine-tooth razor saw. Four 19.25-in. spar doublers need to be cut from two of the Sig kit’s six 1/4 x 40-in. spruce sticks.

Sig Mfg. Co. Spacewalker II Wing, Part 1

11

12 Protect the work surface with waxed paper, use a few T-pins along one side of a heavy, metal straightedge and then set the spars and doublers in their rough positions to prepare them for joining.

Stevens Dual-Grit Sander—and it’s only $1.99.

I used Bob Smith Industries (bsiinc.com) 15-minute epoxy to attach the W-3a and W-1a doublers to the four W-3 and W-1 ribs, and that’s where I got myself into trouble.

Perhaps one of the most significant points I can make is that a true aeromodeling craftsman never stops learning—never! Regardless of how much book knowledge you’ve accumulated, or how much bench experience you’ve garnered, you can always learn something from anyone—even if it’s what not to do. Experts gain their proficiency by studying plans, reading through manuals twice or more, and absorbing all the information that’s available to them before starting construction. It’s usually the less skilled who plow through a manual and a kit as if they’d already left behind everything there is to learn from them.

My reason for bringing this up is my own fallibility. As is my usual practice, I read through the Spacewalker II manual twice before popping a single part from the box, but one step was apparently overlooked—twice. One look at the image of the clamped rib doublers curing on the ribs will show you two pairs of W-1 subassemblies: four W-1 ribs with W-1a doublers. The problem is that I missed the line that told me to prepare only one pair of W-1s, and that the second pair would happen Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Slow-setting epoxy is best for attaching the flat side of each doubler to the face of each wing spar. Make four spar/doubler subassemblies and wipe them with alcohol on a paper towel to remove excess epoxy. Sandwich the spars and doublers between straightedges, pinning the second one to hold everything tightly together. Use clamps to keep the upper edges of the subassemblies from spreading, and weight everything tightly to the bench until the epoxy cures.

when the wing was later being fitted to the fuselage.

Reading the wing-fitting steps showed me the correct time to install those W-1a doublers, but that BSI adhesive isn’t going to be an easy adversary when it comes to separating the second pair of doublers from the ribs. I’ll give it my best shot, but I may have to trace and cut four new parts from scrap.

The lesson? Maybe we should all read those manuals three times instead of only two.

The final subassembly step is cutting four spar doublers from two of the six pieces of spruce spar material in the kit. My Hobbico straightedge and a #2 pencil let me mark the two at 19-1/4 in. from each end; then the task was to cut them. The eyeball method is usually acceptable for non-critical cuts, noncritical because the cut end could always be at the base end of the assembly when the doubler is glued to the spar. I chose not to eyeball the cut, since it gave me the opportunity to pass along a tip for another good tool, the miter box. In simple terms, a miter box is a kind of jig with slots in both sides to carry a saw blade at 90 degrees and 45 degrees to the part needing to be cut. Place the part, in this case my spruce spar doubler, in the box, slip the saw blade in the appropriate slots, in this case 90 degrees, align the pencil mark with

the blade’s teeth, hold the part firmly against the wall of the box and make the cut.

I have miter boxes from several sources, and almost all of them are offered in combination with a finetooth razor saw or saw blade that will fit the grooves in the box. Excel Hobby Blades (excelhobbyblades.com) offers its miter box as a single unit or in combination with a fine-tooth saw blade and a #5 knife handle.

Now that the four doublers are cut, one of them must be attached to each of the four spruce spars. Again, I chose BSI 15-minute epoxy, but the task requires more than just adhesive to ensure straight spars. Start by covering the work surface with waxed paper or some other barrier that won’t let epoxy stick to it, then lay a metal straightedge down over

RC-SF.COM

23

Sig Mfg. Co. Spacewalker II Wing, Part 1 the barrier. I tapped in a few Du-Bro 1/1-4-in. medium T-pins along one side of the straightedge.

Before gluing anything together, set each of the four doublers on one edge to see if it bows upward or downward. Correcting any bow in the doublers will be easier if the ends bow downward instead of up. If you get a doubler bowing upward at its ends, flip it over so that the upward bow is at the center. Make a pencil mark on the up side.

Mix a generous amount of slowsetting epoxy. Don’t make pools or puddles, but instead, draw equidistant lines of epoxy to ensure that an equal amount of each part goes into the mix. Use a plastic coffee can lid as a mixing base. After the epoxy has cured overnight, these plastic lids can be flexed to pop the epoxy free and be used again. Spread the mix onto one side of one doubler with a PopsicleTM stick or a length of 1/8-in. dowel. You don’t want epoxy oozing all over your work, so don’t glom the epoxy on. Just be sure that the entire face of the doubler is evenly coated.

Lay one spruce spar against the edge of the straightedge, followed by the epoxy-coated doubler. Add the second spar and a second coated doubler, then a third and fourth.

Now that you’ve seen how the spars and doublers will stack against the straightedge, lift each joined pair and wipe away any excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol on an absorbent paper towel. One by one, lay the

doubled spars back down against the straightedge.

Use a second straightedge to lock in the spars at the opposite side, and add a few T-pins to lock in the straightedge. If you notice any spreading of the parts above the level of the straightedges, a couple of builders’ clamps will fix it. Finally, do you remember that possible upward bow of the doublers at the center?

If there is any bowing, weight down the spars and doublers with books, magazines, a tool box or anything else that will hold them flat and tight against the work surface. If you’re concerned about these objects sticking to the spars, just add a layer of waxed paper between the spars and the weights. I keep a couple of plastic soda bottles filled with #7 lead shot for times like this, and that always works out nicely.

Allow the spars and doublers to cure overnight, then block-sand the glued edges. Another tip is to sand a gentle radius on the inward-facing edges of the spars and doublers.

You’re not looking for a severe sanding, just a slight rounding to allow the spars and doublers to slip into the rib notches more easily.

With the subassemblies prepared and the wing parts separated from the rest of the kit, tape the wing plans down over your work surface, followed by a layer of barrier. I chose to cut the wing plans into their left and right halves, making them easier to fit onto my limited bench space.

13

I usually choose waxed paper, Great Planes Plan Protector or parchment paper from the grocery store’s baking department as a glue-inhibiting barrier to protect my plans. Of these, the most costly is parchment paper, although it’s also the one I prefer when building with thin and gap-filling CA adhesives.

Well, that’s it for another installment. The basics are finished, hints and tips have been passed along and actual construction of the Sig Spacewalker II wing panels will happen in the next article. Please be here with me to share it.

Many of the techniques I describe in this “Building Model Airplanes” series for RC Sport Flyer have been demonstrated in previous installments. If you are enjoying the series and find your building skills improving from the information presented, please consider having back issues on hand for reference— just in case you want a refresher or have missed something along the way.

Back issues can be ordered from the publisher, and subscriptions to the magazine are available at $24 for 12 issues.

Building model airplanes is fun, and there’s no feeling more rewarding than stepping back from an ongoing project, looking at what you’ve accomplished and mulling over the “you” that’s become a built-in part of the model. This is art, my friends, and your skills are surely developing.

14 Sand the epoxy edges of the subassemblies smooth with a Perma-Grit flat tool or 100-grit paper on an Easy-Touch or ADC aluminum bar sander. It’s optional, but your spars will drop more easily into their notches without snagging if you sand a slight radius on their inward-facing edges.

24

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Tape the wing plans to the work surface and protect them from CA and other adhesives with a good barrier. My favorites, in no particular order, are waxed paper, Great Planes Plan Protector and bakery department parchment paper. The subassemblies are ready, the wing parts are picked from the kit and wing framing will happen in the next issue of RC Sport Flyer. Please be here with me to share in the fun.

By Rob Caso

Decals Gloss spray or Future® floor polish should be applied to a matte surface for WT decals.

This will eliminate “silvering.”

After application, an overspray of flat clear will blend them in with the surface.

These are the setting solutions that I use for WT decals. You’ll find they will make your job of applying decals much easier, so make sure you have them.

W

hile I currently paint most of the markings and other nomenclature on my scale models, decals still have their place.

Certainly, not every scale effort is worthy of painted markings, but I want even my less-than-museumquality models to look the part.

Some full-scale aircraft use decals or stickers, but as a general rule, most aircraft feature painted markings.

As scale modelers, we all know that both civilian and military markings are generally subject to specifications outlining color, proportion and placement. Even homebuilts are subject to a certain protocol. For example, current U.S. military aircraft colors are specified by the guidelines contained in Federal Standard 595, which are comprised of official paint chips, and most developed nations have similar standards.

I will say, however, that once learned, painted markings do not take much longer to apply than good water transfer (WT) decals due to the steps that are needed with the latter to get them to look right. But I digress; there are basically three types of decals—WT, pressure sensitive (PS) and rub on transfers.

The techniques for applying them differ, and each has its advantages and disadvantages.

WT decals are my favorite (next to paint) since they are very thin and are relatively easy to apply. These are manufactured using a silkscreening process on a paper backing, and they come with a clear carrier on which the color is applied. It’s a good idea to take the time to trim away the clear carrier before applying the decal. WTs can be fragile—be careful not to score the colored surface, as

For most decal applications the tools needed are minimal, but a couple of high-qualiy, soft artists’ brushes are critical to apply them successfully every time.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

the decal will come off its backing in pieces. If you are applying WT decals to a matte surface, you must first coat the area that will be under the decal with clear gloss, preferably sprayed on. WTs simply won’t stick well to a matte surface. Furthermore, over a matte surface, the clear carrier around the edge of the decal will show up white (called silvering) because the decal isn’t sealed to the surface of the model but rather is sitting on top of peaks on the surface.

Future® floor polish, which is actually an acrylic paint, works great as the gloss coat.

To apply a decal, dip it in warm water and set it on a towel. After a few minutes, the glue will have loosened and the decal may be slid off the paper backing and onto the model. Make sure the surface of the model is dampened, as this will allow

WT decals come in many variations—in the center is an entire sheet of blue field decal. Good decals will feature the proper colors and be in register.

Decals

Decal setting solutions enabled this water transfer roundel to snuggle into the panel lines. Note the slight out of register near the trailing edge.

On the fuselage side, these WT decals allow all the panel lines to show. Always cut away the clear carrier around a decal whenever possible for a neater job.

On this glossy PS decal, I have cut the clear carrier away. These look fine on shiny covering but will stand out on a matte surface.

To align separate decals, apply a strip of autobody masking tape to the model’s surface, which you can then use as a guide.

you to position the decal where you want it. I usually use a wet brush to position the transfer. Once the decal is in place, carefully squeeze all the water and air from under the decal, working from the center out with a damp cloth. I then apply a decal setting solution (Solvaset) while it is still wet. Once the solution has been applied, don’t touch the decal. Applied properly, a WT decal will conform right down to the minutest surface texture, including fabric weave, yielding a very convincing appearance.

Bubbles that you missed can be pierced with a pin and then wetted in with solution. A flat (or gloss) clear coat will blend in the decal nicely and will fuel proof the finish. If you are planning to weather your model, add a bit of gray to your clear coat for a slightly faded appearance.

I like pressure sensitive (PS) decals for my “let’s get it in the air” Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

scale jobs. They are quick and easy to apply, but they have their limitations, especially over compound curves and surface irregularities. They are usually thicker than WT decals and are generally much glossier.

Bubbles are also an issue, and these transfers usually have an aggressive adhesive. Put a couple of drops of dish detergent in a pint of water and apply this where the PS decal is to go.

This will allow you to reposition or remove the decal and also squeeze out bubbles. Let it dry overnight, and the PS decal will be on for good—it really works.

Rub on transfers have a number of advantages. They are ultra thin and look like paint when properly applied.

The downside is that they must be burnished off the backing and onto the surface of your model, and if you don’t get it all, only part of the transfer will remain on the model.

Additionally, forget about using these on a foam model. Rub-ons are great for replicating small graphics and maintenance nomenclature. They can, however, be more difficult to work with when it comes to larger graphics such as national insignia. So, I like to decal or paint the larger markings and use rub-ons for the small stuff.

Applying them is easy. Just tape the decal to your model and then burnish the transfer onto the surface using a soft piece of rounded balsa. Rub-ons are best applied to a harder surface, such as one that has been epoxy glassed. Once the rub-on is down, you will have to protect it with a clear coat, but first test the paint that you will use—don’t use your model as an experiment.

Properly applied, decals are a great way to emulate a painted insignia and will quickly bring your model to life.

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By Wil Byers

Elevator Control Stop the Hysteresis with Positive Control This is an example of what the full-scale ASG-29 looks like soaring over the German landscape. You can see the 1/3-scale mode I’m building now at icare-rc.com/ asg29_6m.htm. It is a super soaring machine.

A

n often heard complaint at the RC airfield is that a pilot’s model will not stay in trim.

Another one is that a glider doesn’t track very well. Or how about the pilot who complains that their model won’t thermal well because it doesn’t maintain its angle of attack while circling in lift?

I’m certain you’ve either heard these complaints or experienced these problems. What is often the problem is that the elevator’s control system/linkage is not well built and slop free. Consequently, the model does not stay in trim during flight.

You should understand that the elevator of any model has a loading on it, just as the wing does.

This is why the FAI calculates wing loading based on the combination of wing area added to the horizontal

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

stabilizer area, i.e., wing loading = weight (oz) ÷ wing area (ft2). In flight the elevator loading is ever changing based on the conditions of the air. So, if the air is bumpy the elevator might be subject to a heavy loading for an instant and then be unloaded the next. This is affected by the position of the center of gravity too, but the point is that the elevator is not riding along with the airplane in a static condition.

As a result, if there is slop or free play in the elevator’s control system the model will experience hysteresis—a lagging effect. For pilots this means that they are almost forced to fly from behind the airplane or be lagging in control.

Not surprisingly then they will have a difficult time maintaining a smooth and steady flight with their model.

Quite simply, they will not be 100 percent in control of the model no matter its flight attitude.

The solution to hysteresis is building/installing a control system that is tight and slop free. That means as a builder you must ensure that the control system uses a servo with excellent resolution and deadband, as well as a tight gear train. Then too the linkages and control horns must have no free play in them. The control rods must be stiff and strong so that they do not flex under load, and the servo’s control arm must not bend under stress or strain. When the control system is done right, the pilot will experience a model that does only what it is commanded to do. The aircraft’s radio control system should be one that from end to end provides positive control.

Elevator Control You will cut a small slot in the elevator and then glue a fiberglass control horn into the slot with finishing resin epoxy. Be sure to use tape to hold it in place.

You should use blue masking tape around the slot in the elevator to keep the epoxy from oozing out and getting on the elevator. Remove the excess resin as it stiffens but before it is hard.

1

2

This is what the fiberglass control horn looks like once the expoxy has cured completely and the blue painter’s tape has been removed. It leaves a clean installation that is strong!

When you make a pushrod to drive the elevator, use a carbon fiber rod because it is extremely stiff and strong.

Use a Dremel tool to cut the rod to avoid splintering the carbon.

3

4

I use a DuBro 2x56 threaded clevis for the elevator-tocontrol horn connection as a way to provide adjustment.

The threaded rod gets glued into the carbon fiber pushrod with epoxy resin.

Finishing resin is the adhesive of choice for the bond between the rod and carbon tube because it is very strong and will give you lots of working time to make adjustments.

5

6

This is the connection between the DuBro clevis and the fiberglass control horn that is glued into the elevator. The threaded clevis lets you make elevator trim adjustments as needed.

You’ll make the same kind of connection at the servo end of the pushrod, but instead of a threaded clevis, use a solder-type clevis. This will stop the rod from getting out of adjustment ...

The system I’ve fabricated for my 1/3-scale ASG-29 sailplane does just that. It is strong yet lightweight.

Importantly, it is slop free.

Only one end of the control rod is adjustable, so it will not fall out of

7 Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

8 trim in flight because of vibration or other pressure.

From the photos above you can see that it is easy to build too. So, build well and be a better pilot.

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BY Jerry Smith

Keep It Safe

You definitely want to check all the control settings on your transmitter before you take your model to the airfield.

Maintain it Like You Own It!

W

hether you fly gas-, glowor electric-powered airplanes, it pays to perform good routine maintenance on your aircraft. Remember, accidents happen, and they are often caused by things you had not anticipated.

Also, poor maintenance can and will compromise your airplane’s flight performance and safety. Just because it flew well previously doesn’t mean it will fly that way now and in the future. If you want to keep your aircraft flying well and safely, you must be vigilant against hardware and radio control problems.

I have been flying RC for years. My models have had many maintenance issues that kept them out of the air. The problems are often simple things that were discovered during a preflight inspection. They include things like a screw vibrating out of a fastener or servo mount—when I didn’t have a replacement in my flight box at the airfield. This is why some pilots carry a complete workshop with them to the RC airfield. It will include all the tools and hardware necessary to make on-site repairs.

Interestingly, they will often have a duplicate set in their workshop. That way they can easily make repairs at home or at the field with the same tools and parts in either place. It is not a bad idea, but most of us don’t

want to make that kind of financial investment. However, there are some simple things you can do to make sure your models are airworthy.

These should become habitual.

Then you won’t give them a second thought, and necessary repairs and maintenance won’t catch you off guard. Furthermore, they won’t result in accidents that require expensive repairs or worse for your model.

Here is how I ready my airplanes for flight. Before I leave for the airfield, I give them a good preflight inspection in the workshop. In other words, you should preflight your airplane like you would if it were a full-scale aircraft. To do this I turn on the radio control system and check control surface movements.

I also examine the control horn fittings and servo arms for tightness.

I make certain the battery for the transmitter is charged, as well as Check all the control linkages and screws on struts and elsewhere to make certain they are secure against coming loose.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Keep It Safe You’ll want to check your model’s controls from spinner to tail wheel to be sure nothing will come apart in flight.

the packs in the airplane. You’ll also want to check the propeller bolts for tightness, especially if the prop is wooden. On large-scale airplanes the bolts must be tightened with a torque wrench to avoid over-tightening, which can cause the bolts to snap under load. You’ll want to check for loose covering too, and for graphics that might tear free of the covering material. Make certain you are loading the proper fuel too—using the wrong fuel mix (oil/gas) can cost you an engine or at least rob it of performance. What you will find after doing this a couple of times is that a good preflight inspection does not take long, and it will give you peace of mind when flying your airplanes. If you are forgetful or your airplane is a complicated machine, I suggest you make a checklist. Then use it—just like the full-scale airplane pilots do.

Most RC pilots have more than one airplane. It isn’t unusual that they will also have a favorite. As a result, one or more of their airplanes will not get flown much, depending on their favorite flyer at the time.

Sometimes these neglected aircraft

will sit for months without being flown or maintained. If this is the case with any of your models, especially a gas- or glow-powered model, the first thing you should inspect and maintain is the fuel system. You must check to see if there is fuel in the tank, which may have gotten gummy. Also if your model’s fuel tank is fitted with Tygon® gas tubing for its pickup line, instead of black neoprene, you’ll want to

check to see if it has hardened and subsequently fallen off. Another thing to examine is the condition of the engine’s carburetor. I recommend you check the carburetor’s filter screen to see if it is dirty, or if the fuel has hardened and formed a film over it during the months your model has been in storage.

Of course, if you are flying electric-powered airplanes you don’t

Double-check that servo arms, pushrods and control horns are both tight and secure in their control surfaces.

Get a portable battery charger that you can put in your flight box or tool kit and carry to the airfield to top off packs.

Make sure that propeller bolts are tight and secure. A loose propeller can damage the propeller and the engine or worse.

You do not want to over tighten propeller bolts.

Check that they match the manufacturer’s specifications.

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Keep It Safe You should invest in a torque wrench for tightening propeller bolts. They are a few bucks but worth every penny you’ll spend.

Check to make sure the clunk in the model’s fuel tank is still in good working order and that there is fresh fuel in the tank.

Do not forget to take a tank full of fuel with you. This electric-powered tank is sold

by Aero-Works.net. It will make filling the tank quick!

Be sure to clean the engine’s carburetor from time to time. The filter screen can get dirty and gummed up, which will cause problems.

have many of these items to check.

You must, however, preflight the airframe to verify it is airworthy. You must also perform proper battery management and conditioning, as well as control system checks.

As a testament to the need for proper preflight checks, I have an RCer friend who never performs maintenance on his airplanes until it is absolutely necessary. As you might imagine he does not log many hours at the control sticks.

Rather, when he arrives at the airfield with his models, he is always making repairs and adjustments to his models to make them airworthy.

Moreover, he typically doesn’t have a set of field tools to fix his models. So, he is forced to ask for assistance from someone else who has come prepared. As a result, his models get sidelined much of the time due to minor and even major airworthiness problems.

While I can’t cover every facet of what you’ll need to do to ready your models for flight, what I’m trying to underscore in this article is the importance of keeping 32

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

your airplane properly maintained and flight ready. Maintaining your models is definitely a safety issue.

Not only can a poorly maintained model result in the loss of that model, but a model that is out of control can damage property or worse. It can also result in poor relations among club members and the like.

The bottom line is that you must make a preflight examination a habit

for your airplanes. You’ll discover that it gives you confidence as well as enhanced performance and control of your airplanes. It is a good feeling all around to know that you have taken responsibility to maintain your aircraft. Importantly, it will also earn you respect among your peers.

A little foam-safe CA glue in your toolbox would have this model flying again in about five minutes, so don’t forget it.

Authentic. Easy to use.

And as innovative as RealFlight software!

For years RealFlight has set the highest standards in R/C flight sim realism — not just through its software but also with the included InterLink Elite controller.

Created by Futaba and closely based on the 6EX, the InterLink Elite stays faithful to the features of high-quality radios — even offering digital trims and assignable switches. It’s not made for flying field use, and for good reason: With the InterLink Elite, you also enjoy the most useful command of your simulation.

QuickSelect™ keeps your hands on the sticks when choosing software settings, instead of reaching for the keyboard and mouse. Pressing Reset puts you right back into action after a crash. To study any part of your last flight — or try a “do-over” — just hold the button down.

With your InterLink Elite dedicated to RealFlight, your real transmitter avoids wear and tear off the flight line. And when you want to fly the sim, your controller is always ready…not sitting in your flight box needing a charge.

Want to fly with a buddy? Use the InterLink Elite’s MultiMode interface to connect your friend’s transmitter. Now you can both enjoy RealFlight on one PC — sharing the greatest realism that any R/C flight sim can offer!

®

by

®

®

realflight.com/118b U.S. Patent #7,010,628 U.S. Patent #6,842,804 © 2012 Hobbico, Inc. All rights reserved. 3072850

BY Jerry Smith

Custom-Made Leads Make Extensions that Fit Your Model Perfectly

M

ost of the major brands of servos come with a lead that is about 12 in. long. As a result, when you install a radio control system in an airplane it is often necessary to use servo lead extensions between the servo’s pigtail and the airplane’s receiver.

Sometimes servo leads just aren’t the right length, or they don’t fit the installation the way you want.

Servo extensions are available in various, mostly even lengths—6-, 9-, 12-, 24-, 36- and 48-in. leads. Stock servo lead extensions may not fit your model exactly. They either just

barely reach or are too long. If the extension is too long it can make for a messy control system installation, with extra wire hanging inside the model’s fuselage or wings.

The answer to this problem is making a set of custom servo extensions. Customized extensions

You can purchase connector kits with gold-plated pins from Maxx Products. They are quite inexpensive, and the gold-plated pins have the lowest electrical resistance. If you buy the JR type they will also fit Hitec and Airtonics radios. It is good to have some on hand for future repairs or a new project, so buy a few packs at once. You will save on shipping costs that way too.

Begin by stripping the end of the wires about 1/8 in. My wire strippers have a gauge allowing me to set it for a particular wire size. Some might not have this feature and you will have to set them manually. If you get that kind, be careful not to set it too small and cut the wire strands. Once the wires are stripped, twist the strands in a rope-like fashion with your fingers.

Here are the connectors as you receive them out of the package.

On the right side are the female connectors—not the pins. The connector pins are long, and a shell is placed over the basic female connector. On the left side are the male connectors with short pins. Be sure the pins are gold plated; some aren’t.

The connector pins come on a rack. Bending them back and forth on the sprue will break them free of it. Do not try to cut them loose.

Also break off only what you need during your build because they are small and easily lost if dropped on the carpet. Study them well before you start so you understand how they fit the wire.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Custom-Made Leads

Twist the bare wire leads to make certain the strands are tight.

Lay the wire in the pin with the insulation up against the second set of tabs. Hold it in place with your finger on a flat surface; bend the first set of tabs slightly over the insulation with needle nose pliers. This starts the tab bending in the right direction and holds the pin in place on the wire for crimping. An important step is to make sure the bare wire is in-line and under the second set of tabs so that there is good mechanical bond between wire and pin.

With the wire number sizes stamped on the crimper facing you, lay the pin in the back set of jaws of the crimper with the wire and insulation clamping tabs face down. Leave about 1/16 in. of the pin sticking outside the jaws. Now crimp it tight. Remove the pin and slide that extra 1/16 in. back into the jaws to further crimp the tabs onto the insulation, which will help prevent having the wire pulled free of the pin if you inadvertantly pull on the wire during plugging or unplugging.

When the wire is properly crimped to the pin it looks like this.

Note how the insulation is clamped and the bare wires and strands are completely enclosed in the pin’s crimping tabs. Additional forming can be done with needle nose pliers if necessary. Inspect it with a loupe or your magnifier to make certain the wire has been properly crimped. Importantly, you must create a good electrical connection between wire and pin.

With the connector properly oriented, black locking tabs up and large holes to the left, insert the signal wire pin, first hole on top, with the wire locking tabs facing up. Insert it until the black locking tab on the connector is flush. If the pin is not inserted all the way, the tab will stick up slightly and the pin will not lock in place. The signal wire goes in first, followed by the red wire and then the brown wire for proper polarity.

will allow leads to fit your model exactly. They are not hard to make either. You simply need the proper tools, wire and custom connectors, which are sold by a few hobby suppliers—I bought mine from Maxx Products.

You might also need to make custom connectors for your servo’s extensions in case you have a damaged connector on a servo lead.

In such a situation you can replace the connector using the tools you’ve acquired to make custom extensions Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

and the knowledge you’ve absorbed from this how-to article.

Get Started

You will need to buy insulated servo wire, a set of wire strippers, the connector parts and pins (female and male), a crimping tool and a pair of side cutters.

The wire size you choose is important. Most of the servo wire used in model airplane control systems is 22-gauge, 65-strand, 3-conductor ribbon or twisted wire.

It is used for standard-size and larger servos. If your model is small, such as a park flyer or discus-launched glider, you’ll want smaller-gauge wire (24 or 26 gauge). It is important to use stranded wire because it is flexible and will not break. Do not use singlestrand wire for the wire runs in any model airplane!

You can buy wire from many sources. I recommend buying from maxxprod.com. Maxx Products supplies everything you need to make custom leads. You can buy good wire RC-SF.COM

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Custom-Made Leads strippers from Home Depot® or your favorite hardware store. Once you have all the equipment assembled in your workshop, you are ready to make custom servo extensions and repair broken connectors on servos or elsewhere.

Follow my step-by-step photo pictorial to learn some of my tips and tricks for making customized servo extensions and connectors.

I would add that fashioning good connectors takes a bit of practice, so don’t get frustrated at the beginning.

The connectors and wire are small, which makes them difficult to handle, but you can do it. After you have built a few it gets easier and easier.

I’ve found that it can help to use a magnifier visor to aid in seeing the wire, their position in the crimpers and the connectors more easily. I recommend a Donegan Optivisor, which is sold by towerhobbies.com.

In my how-to photos I show this technique for JR, Hitec and Airtonics Z connectors; however, Futaba connectors also assemble in the same

manner. I’m confident that if you make a set of custom extensions for your next model build project you will find it not only useful but actually pretty fun to do.

References Maxx Products maxxprod.com Tower Hobbies towerhobbies.com

Once you have the wires inserted in the female connector, you will install the shell. The shell’s inside hole has one rounded corner, and the connector has one rounded corner. Line them up. If it goes on easy all the way that is the wrong end. If you reverse ends and line up the rounded corners you should meet resistance. Push more and it will eventually snap into place.

If for some reason you get the wire in the wrong place it can be removed. Place a razor blade under the connector’s black locking tab and wedge it up ever so slightly, then pull out the wire and pin.

Do not overly bend the plastic locking tab or the connector will be ruined. If you bend it, replace it because this is what holds the pin in place. You can replace a broken connector this way as well.

These are the tools required to make custom servo and extension leads and/or do repairs. The benefits of doing it yourself are far reaching. Custom extensions allow you the freedom to build or repair at will, whether you fly Futaba, JR, Hitec or Airtronics.

Good luck with your extensions! Also, custom extension will be tailor-made for your airplane, so when you are done there will not be a bunch of loose wire lying inside your model.

After making and installing a servo lead/extension, it is a good idea to provide a safety device to hold them together. There are many ways of doing this. Here are four that are fairly popular. Plastic safety clips come in different colors and are easy to install and remove. Small plastic tie wraps will also work. Pieces of carpet tape on each side of the connector and a piece of heat shrink tubing are other easy options.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Maxx Products is your complete source for Electric Airplane Accessories

Mounts - Heatsink or plain mounts for beam mount Fit 20, 28, and 36 mm motors.

Heatsinks - Extruded aluminum heatsinks Fit 12, 20, 28, and 36mm motors.

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Spinners - 29, 38, 44 and 50mm lightweight polished aluminum spinners - Fit 2 to 5mm motor shafts.

Gearboxes - Assorted planetary and offset gearboxes to fit a variety of motors.

Tools - Universal Pinion Puller. Universal Extracting Tool

1570 Switch - This simple switch temporarily disconnects BEC power to the radio system between flights.

• Micro wire (32AWG) extensions, Y-harness, switch harness for small electric airplanes, • Full line of Himax Brushless motors and gear motors, • Full line of ferrite motors and high performance cobalt & neodymium motors, Micro servos, micro receivers, and battery packs.

Visit Our Website to See the Complete Line!

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Wheels - Light weight wheels with strong hubs Sizes: 1.25”, 1.5”, 2”, 2.5”, and 3.00”

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www.maxxprod.com

BY Dan Deckert

Acro-Wot MkII Tx-Ready A Transmitter-Ready Airplane That’s Pure Sport Fun

A

fter becoming comfortable with flying a two- or threechannel aircraft, most beginning pilots want to fly an aircraft with a little more power and agility.

They can make the ridiculous leap to a five-channel or more aircraft and brave the unsettling odds that they will lose their model within the first flight. Alternatively, they can ease into airplanes with a four-channel system that will treat them right and give them the enhanced performance they want.

Thanks to Flyzone’s designers and manufacturers, pilots now have a tremendously easy-to-fly kit aircraft that is gentle on both the pilot and the wallet.

The Acro-Wot is both a good looker and a good flyer.

You’ll enjoy putting this little model through its paces.

The Kit

Flyzone® hit it out of the park with the Acro-Wot MkII. Its AeroCell foam and carbon fiber construction provide plenty of strength and durability in an airframe that’s both sleek and sporty. If you desire to fly and not build, then this airplane is the perfect fit.

You get an airplane that is almost built and ready to bind to your transmitter (Tx). The Acro-Wot is

The Acro-Wot’s fuselage is made of foam. It comes with canopy, decals and engine cowl already in place.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

The radio installation is done for you. All you need to do is assemble the fuselage to the wing and charge the battery.

Flyzone® Acro-Wot MkII Tx-Ready

This shows you how clean the motor install is inside the fuselage. There is nothing getting in the way of its rotation.

You’ll only need to attach the elevator and rudder to the fuselage by way of a couple of screws. It is quick and easy to do.

very easy to assemble. Remember to be patient while you assemble your model. There’s no reason to force any of the parts to fit when finishing this little model.

What You Get

• Airframe Fuselage, wing, stabilizers • Landing gear Main gear, tail wheel • Motor Flyzone 30-24-920Kv brushless • Propeller Flyzone 11x8 • Speed controller Flyzone 40-amp • Servos Flyzone micro • Battery Flyzone 3S 11.1-V 1800-mAh LiPo • Receiver Tactic TT624 2.4GHz SLT • Charger

You will find that this airplane is surprisingly maneuverable and responsive to control inputs.

Here you can see how the elevator attaches to the tail boom. You will simply screw it to the fuselage with the vertical fin keyed in place.

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The linkage for the ailerons is very positive and slop free, which makes for excellent roll control and responsive control feel for the pilot.

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Great Planes 3S LiPo AC/DC smart charger • Hardware Screws

Needed to Complete • Transmitter Tactic TTX404 2.4-GHz

In Flight

For takeoff, I gave just a tad of right rudder control and throttle and my Acro-Wot was in the air in about 15 ft. With the suggested control throws, the plane isn’t a rocket in basic maneuvers. It was very predictable when flown with the control in either high and

The color scheme on my Acro-Wot makes it easy to see and maintain orientation while the model is in the air.

The ailerons use a Y-harness for their connection to the radio receiver. It makes for a quick and easy install and connection.

Another view of the model shows off its bright blue, orange, black and white color scheme. You won’t have trouble seeing it.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

You get the main gear, tail wheel, all necessary hardware and a propeller with spinnner in your AcroWot kit package.

low rate settings. Stalls are pretty straightforward without a tendency to snap roll. Aileron rolls and loops are quite gentle and easy as long as you’ve put some space between you and the ground.

Landings are pretty smooth, but you want to practice a little. A big plus is that the Acro-Wot is easy to see in the air.

This airplane isn’t a 3D monster but is more in line with gearing new pilots toward flying a fourchannel control airplane.

Conclusion

Flyzone has made it extremely easy and affordable to enter your next stage of RC flying with the Acro-Wot. They’ve made getting it into the air as simple as possible with this Tx-R version. There’s virtually no

Flyzone® Acro-Wot MkII Tx-Ready

The business end of the AcroWot shows you that the cowl has plenty of air inlet ducting to keep the motor cool.

Once you have the tail of the model up and flying, the rudder control is very good. It will not use much runway before it is flying either.

You can use Any Link® with just about any transmitter you have to control your Acro-Wot—no need to buy a dedicated Tx.

You might want to buy this model as an aileron trainer or to use to start learning aerobatics. It is a good pick for either.

This give you an idea of just how clean the design lines of this model are, which makes for an efficient flyer.

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Flyzone® Acro-Wot MkII Tx-Ready building experience required because the parts are preinstalled and self aligning, and no gluing is required.

This aircraft would be superb for any pilots desiring to transition into a four-channel airplane and start ripping up the sky with some fancy flying. The $199.98 price makes it easy on your hobby budget too.

Specifications

I think you’ll agree that the AcroWot is a good-looking airplane in the air, with its clean design lines and scale appearance.

Control Throws Low Rates (Up/Down)

High Rates (Up/Down)

Aileron

11/32 in. (9 mm)

1/2 in. (13 mm)

Elevator

11/32 in. (9 mm)

5/8 in. (16 mm)

Rudder

1-1/16 in. (27 mm)

1-5/8 in. (41 mm)

Distributor Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 (800) 637-7660 greatplanes.com

Wingspan

49 in. (1245 mm)

Wing Area

410 in.² (26.4 dm²)

Length

39.5 in. (1005 mm)

Weight

38–42 oz (1075–1190 g)

Motor

30-24-920-kV brushless outrunner motor

Speed controller

40-A

Propeller

11x8

Transmitter

Futaba 7C 2.4-Ghz w/ Tactic AnyLink Adapter

Receiver

Tactic AnyLink

Batteries

3S 11.1-V 1800-mAh 20C LiPo (Flyzone HCAA6430)

Servos

Park Flyer sized

Price

$199.98

Assembly Aside from setting the center of gravity (CG) point, there is no real building work required to ready this model for flying. Everything just bolts, screws or plugs together. Because I’m controlling my model with a Futaba 7C transmitter, I set up the Tactic AnyLink Radio Adapter with the transmitter. The AnyLink Radio Adapter comes standard with a square plug for a Futaba 7C. Double- and triple-check to seat the plug correctly or you will lose radio connection with your aircraft.

Double- and triple-check that your transmitter settings are all at neutral before binding.

My next step was to bind the transmitter to the receiver per the manual. Then I plugged all the servos in to be sure they were all centered and operating correctly.

Before you mount the vertical and horizontal stabilizers, check the vertical stabilizer blind nuts to be sure there’s no glue in the holes. Then dry-fit the parts to be sure everything fits and is aligned correctly. You might need to do some minor work to clean up extra glue from the factory that prevents the parts from seating correctly. Install the horizontal and vertical stabilizers while the aircraft is held upside down. The two bolts for the vertical stabilizer should go in quite easily. Be careful not to overly tighten or force them as you’re mounting.

After installing the tail pieces, I installed the rudder control horn, the backing plate and the tail wheel. As a safety measure, I applied some thin foam-safe CA to lock everything into the rudder. My kit was missing the second 2 x 8-mm selftapping screw, so I substituted it with some small servo mounting screws I had.

This made for a rock-solid setup.

Before you hook up the control rods to the elevator and rudder, make sure they run through the quick connectors on the servos. Then install the control 42

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

rods onto the control horns in the outermost holes. At this point, I powered up the electronics and tightened the set screws on the elevator and rudder with the control surfaces centered on the airframe. Follow the instructions and be absolutely sure your transmitter settings are at neutral.

Next you’ll want to connect the wing’s servos to the receiver and center all the control surfaces. You will have an excess of wires from the wing to fit into the fuselage. I suggest pushing the excess into the wing as far as you are comfortable with and taping them down. The excess wiring could catch the rudder and elevator servos and cause problems if left bunched up in the fuselage.

Pick a location for the model’s receiver, remove the installed backing tape and secure it to the fuselage. Then you can install the wing. Do not overly tighten the machine screw when attaching the wing! Attach the landing gear, and then attach the propeller and spinner to the aircraft, power up the airplane and triplecheck your directional throws and motor direction.

With the airplane assembled and the battery installed, you will be ready to check the center of gravity. To set the CG, push one T-pin through the top of the wing, about an inch from each side of the fuselage, 2-7/16-in. behind the leading edge. Hold the plane upside down with your fingertips on the pins and check its balance. My airplane balanced just perfect. The battery must be installed in a diagonal position. Failure to do so will keep you from setting its proper CG. Image #13 in the manual shows this.

Once balanced, your Acro-Wot MkII is ready for flight. Remember to range check the model’s radio control system and charge its battery for a good first flight.

™

Make the Waterline Your Flight Line Skip across the shallows, pull on the elevator, separate from the surface and soar! The Flyzone Tidewater adds an entirely new element to flight—it is designed from the floats up to be at home in the air or the water.

A high-mounted brushless motor pod and specially-contoured fuselage make water launches easy. Once it’s up, the Tidewater’s high-wing mounting and centralized motor pod give it fun, forgiving flight characteristics.

The Tidewater is available in two versions so you can be sure to get the model that is the most convenient for you. The RTF comes with everything you need to fly. You can fly the Tx-R Prime with the flight battery and 4-channel radio you may already have.

Wingspan: 41.5 in (1055 mm)

™

FlyzonePlanes.com/119G

™

© 2013 Hobbico, Inc. All rights reserved. 3074595

BY Jerry Smith

A6M5 Zero 300 BNF Basic Maneuver Onto Your Opponent’s Six With This Gorgeous Fighter

W

hen it first entered fighter combat service with the Imperial Japanese Navy Air Service (IJNAS) in 1940, the Mitsubishi A6M Zero had no equal.

It was very fast and maneuverable and had an exceptional range. These traits earned it a reputation as a formidable fighter. However, by early 1943 the Zero was beginning to lose air superiority to faster and betterarmed American fighters that

The lines of this little warbird are simply without comparison.

It even comes with a pilot built into the cockpit, so it presents very much like the full-scale aircraft would have during some of the battles of WWII.

were coming into service. United States Navy (USN) F6F Hellcats and Army Air Force (USAAF) P-38 Lightnings began to turn the tide of the air war over the Pacific.

To keep the balance in their favor, Mitsubishi modified their existing A6M3 model to create the A6M5. The A6M5 featured heavier gauge wing skins for faster dive speeds, shorter, non-folding, rounded wing tips to improve roll rate and individual exhaust stacks that gave its engine a modest boost in performance. With a top speed of 351 mph at an altitude of 19,600 ft and up to 410 mph in a dive, the A6M5 was the most efficient 44

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

E-Flite A6M5 Zero 300 BNF Basic

This is what you can expect to find in the kit. The BNF Zero requires only a battery and a transmitter to ready it for flight. It arrived in perfect condition because it was well packaged.

There is plenty of detail on the bottom of the wing.

Aileron torque arms are placed in tubing as a bearing.

The tubing is then glued to the wing for smooth operation.

model of the Zero produced.

Despite the improvements, the Zero only managed to slightly level the competition, out-performing the enemy only with a skilled pilot at its controls.

It remained in production until the war’s end in 1945, totaling over 11,000 aircraft produced. Today, very few authentic A6M Zeros remain in the world, partly due to their use as kamikaze aircraft.

The Kit

The Horizon E-flite A6M5 Zero 300 Bind-N-Fly (BNF) airplane is made for foamy warbird enthusiasts.

The Zero 300 comes out of its kit Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

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45

There is no servo installed in the outboard of the wing.

The bottom of the wing just has clean lines with great detail and roundel graphics painted on to give it a terrific scale appearance.

One servo drives both ailerons. An “O” ring holds the wing in place by connecting it to a hook that is built into the inside of the fuselage. A special tool is included in the kit that you’ll use to pull it into place.

The control horns on the elevator and rudder are replaceable.

Clevises on both controls make for easy adjustments to the control surfaces, which will help you get your model trimmed to perfection.

Look at the detailing on the Zero. Horizon Hobby has gone to great lengths to ensure you get an attractive model. If you are good with an airbrush, you could make it look even better with weathering.

box beautifully and authentically painted and loaded with scale details. The fit and finish of this well-powered, four-channel and electric-powered warbird have been painstakingly engineered—taking very few liberties with its design to achieve excellent flight performance.

The kit comes with the motor, ESC, receiver and servos all factory installed. A battery and transmitter are needed to get the aircraft up and flying.

As I looked over my new Zero model, I was amazed by all the detail imparted into the foam construction.

The engine exhaust stacks, panel lines, dummy engine, scale spinner, canopy, pilot and a great paint job brought it all together. Horizon thought it looked so good they even included a display stand in the kit.

This is one little warbird you will be proud to own.

What You Get • Airframe

The E-flite Zero A6M5 comes with a desktop stand that you can use to display it in your home, office or workshop. This makes for a great way to show off your model and store it out of harm’s way.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Fuselage, wing, empennage • Motor E-Flite 300 brushless outrunner • Propeller E-Flite 7x6E • Speed controller

E-flite 10-amp brushless • Servos (3) E-Flite 3.5-g digital • Receiver Spektrum® AR6310 DSMX Nanolite

E-Flite A6M5 Zero 300 BNF Basic • Hardware O-ring, O-ring tool, canopy, display stand

Needed To Complete • Battery 2S 7.4-V 430-mAh LiPo • Transmitter Spektrum DX8 DSMX/DSM2 • Charger Celectra 80-W AC/DC multichemistry

Here I am with my little Zero.

This is an excellent little park flyer warbird. It has plenty of power and performance, which will let you fly it in your local RC airfield or a small park near your home—Fun!

In Flight

Setting my transmitter’s timer for four minutes, I launched the Zero into a 5-mph breeze and off it went. Make sure to move the battery forward in the airplane before launching, because where I had it set I found this little guy somewhat tail heavy.

Set properly it flew well. I flew my Zero four more times after the initial flight; however, I had to adjust the elevator’s control throw for less travel to make it comfortable for me to fly.

From the start I found this a very friendly-flying airplane. It has plenty of power to do the maneuvers a warbird would typically do. It also slows down well, which will let you enjoy comfortable, relaxed flying. It is definitely not a speed demon though.

I found that its glide is good and that it lands quite softly after every flight, which left it looking as good as new. I am very pleased with the

Looking into the fuselage, the Spektrum AR6310 receiver sits just ahead of the servos. I taped the power and throttle leads to keep them in place.

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Because the traditional binding plug will not fit, I bound the receiver to the transmitter using a mini alligator clip to short out the two bind pins. Be sure to have the throttle and its trim set to their lowest positions.

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E-Flite A6M5 Zero 300 BNF Basic

Assembly There is not much assembly needed to ready the Zero for flight, so by the time I had charged its battery I had it ready to fly.

To assemble it, I installed the wing first. This was done by sliding the two guide pins on the leading edge of the wing into the fuselage. I then routed the aileron servo leads to the receiver leads coming out of the bottom of the fuselage. Removing the canopy, I flipped the Zero over and took the O-ring and O-ring tool and stretched the O-ring between the hook on the wing and the hook on the fuselage. This attaches the wing to the fuselage. As a tip, stretch the O-ring first because doing so will take some of the stiffness out of the rubber.

One thing I didn’t like about this kit was that the spinner glues to the propeller.

The spinner is made of foam, and there is not much glue holding it in place. If you are careful you can remove it, but some of the foam will be left behind on the propeller. If you do remove it you’ll want to remove any excess glue by carefully scraping it off. If needed, the kit includes an extra propeller and spinner. Beyond that they are available as extra parts. flight characteristics of my new E-flite Zero. For a small airplane, it is an excellent flyer.

Conclusion

The workmanship and scale detail on the Zero are outstanding, so it is a model you’ll be proud to own. These little warbirds keep getting better and better. I can honestly say if you decide to buy one, you will be very happy with it. Because you can buy it

When I was satisfied that l had the model assembled properly, I bound the receiver to my DX8 transmitter. The AR6310 Nanolite receiver does not accept the traditional binding plug. There are two pins that are in close proximity to each other on the receiver that are exposed. All you do to bind the receiver to the transmitter’s QUID code is short them. I used a micro alligator clip, and it worked fine for me. Don’t forget to remove it after binding. If you run into trouble with binding and the motor won’t run, you must make sure the throttle control’s trim is all the way down.

For the first flight, I set the center of gravity for the Zero at the recommended distance. I used a 2S 480-mAh 25C Thunder Power pack. It fits like a glove in the slot, which will allow you to shift fore and aft some if necessary. After positioning the battery in a spot for installation, I set the Zero up inverted on the kit’s balancer. The model’s balance was almost perfect with the battery in the position chosen. I figured this would be a good starting place.

as a Bind-N-Fly model, you will not spend much time getting it ready to fly either. The display stand that comes in the kit is a big plus, especially if you want to show it off at the office. Then you can sit back and look at it with a smile on your face, even if you can’t go flying on a particular day. The folks at Horizon Hobby did themselves proud with this little warbird.

Control Throws High Rate (Up/Down) Low Rate (Up/Down) Aileron

9/32 in. (7 mm)

3/16 in. (5 mm)

Elevator

3/8 in. (9 mm)

9/32 in. (7 mm)

Rudder

3/4 in. (18 mm)

5/8 in. (15 mm)

Expo

25%

15%

Specifications Wingspan

25.5 in. (650 mm)

Wing Area

117 in.2 (7.55 dm2)

Length

21.6 in. (550 mm)

Weight

8.2–8.7 oz (232–246 g)

Motor

E-Flite 300 brushless outrunner

Propeller

7x6

Speed Controller

E-flite 10-amp brushless

Servos

(3) E-Flite 3.5-g digital

Battery

Thunder Power 2S 7.4-V 480-mAh LiPo

Receiver

Spektrum AR6310 DSMX nanolite

Transmitter

Spektrum DX8 DSMX/ DSM2

Charger

Celectra 80-watt AC/DC multi-chemistry

Price

$149.99 (#EFL61750)

Distributor Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Rd. Champaign, IL 61822 (217) 352-1913 horizonhobby.com

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

CUBS N’ COUSINS 2013 RC FUN FLY WEAVER FIELD – OTHELLO, WA

AUGUST 23-25 ONLY $15 ADMISSION

If it is a Cub or a Cousin Your In! i.e., Aeronca, Bellanca, Fairchild, Stinson, etc.

rc-cubsncousins.com

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Contact: Gary Owen 206-284-5627 Cain Lopez 509-760-0335 CD: Wil Byers

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BY Gene Cope

Super Stearman ARF A Stearman Park Flyer With Get Up And Go

O

ne of the easiest aircraft in history to recognize is the Boeing Model 75 Stearman biplane. First flown in 1934, the Stearman has become a legend in aviation. It was introduced as a trainer for the U.S. Army Air Corps (USAAC), U.S. Navy (USN) and Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF) during the 1930s and 1940s for World War II. Following the end of the war, thousands of Stearmans found new homes with civilian buyers, with many being used successfully as crop dusters.

You’ll want to pull the power back when the model is a few feet above the ground. Then you can just fly it onto the deck doing nice wheel landings.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Pilots then began installing larger Pratt & Whitney R-985 450-hp air-cooled radial engines in them, replacing the stock Continental R-670 220-hp engines. They also fitted them with a constant speed propeller for increased climb performance and for added takeoff weight. The resulting aircraft would be called the Super Stearman.

When air show pilots caught wind of the modifications, they began converting their stock Stearmans to the 450-hp engines. Supers incorporated additional ailerons on

the top wings and slaved them to the pair on the bottom, which gave the airplanes increased roll rates. With the new upgrades, pilots could spend more time performing aerobatics at the controls of a Super Stearman during an air show routine. The stock Stearmans were forced to spend additional time climbing and then diving their aircraft for the airspeed to perform the same stunts as the Supers. Some, if not most, Super Stearman were fitted with fuel and oil systems that supported inverted flight as well. So it was that just as

ElectriFly Super Stearman ARF military pilots fell in love with the easy-flying PT-17, air show pilots became enamored with the Super Stearman.

Kit

The ElectriFly Super Stearman kit distributed

by Great Planes comes as an almost-ready-tofly (ARF) model. You’ll get all the parts neatly packaged and protected in a sturdy cardboard box. My model came inside an outer box that protected it against any shipping damage, so it arrived in perfect condition.

The biplane is covered in MonoKote high-quality covering, and mine had some wrinkles when I took it out of the box, which I was able to iron and heat gun out. Because it is an ARF, order the

These are the components that you get in your Great Planes Super Stearman ARF kit. The parts are well made and high quality.

You must buy a motor, speed controller, battery, servos, servo leads, propeller and a radio receiver to complete the Super Stearman.

I used six-minute epoxy to bond the servo mounting blocks to the back of the servo covers. Heat-shrink tubing secures the 6-in. extensions’ joints.

The aluminum landing gear comes with great-looking wheel pants. A small drop of thread lock guarantees that the axels won’t loosen in their legs.

The Super Stearman kit includes a simulated radial engine that fits inside the cowl. It adds to the scale look of this model significantly.

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Your Super Stearman will come with an interconnecting strut to link the bottom aileron with the top, which gives this little model good aerobatic performance.

items listed in this article to complete the build. They too arrived well packaged and ready to install in my model.

I can tell you that the model, the components that you get to power it and the manual are very well done. This is a park flyer that will please you with its components.

Kit Includes • • • • • • • • • •

Fuselage Wings (upper/lower) Empennage Cowling Wings struts Wheels Wheel boots Fixed landing strut Linkages Hardware set

The 35-amp ESC is held in place with hook-n-loop material below the battery location tray, which will keep it cool as air flows over it.

Needed to Complete

• Motor ElectriFly Rimfire .10 outrunner • Speed Controller ElectriFly 35A Brushless Silver Series • Propeller APC 10x7E LP 10070E • Servos (4) Futaba S3114 • Battery 22,000-mAh 11.1-V 25C ElectriFly Power Series LiPo • Receiver Futaba R617FS 2.4-GHz 52

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

The Rimfire .10 mounts to the firewall with four 4-40 machine screws. A drop of thread lock was applied to them to secure them.

• Transmitter Futaba 8FG Super • Glue Cyanoacrylate, epoxy • Hardware #2 3/8-in. screws • Heat Shrink Tubing 3/8-in.

In Flight

ElectriFly’s Super Stearman Almost-Ready-to-Fly (ARF) kit reflects the captivating scale looks and maneuverability that drew so many air show pilots to this aircraft in the first place. The model delivers much of the flight characteristics of the full-scale airplane.

The model’s Rimfire® .10 outrunner motor provides plenty of power for this park flyer!

The battery is held in place on its tray by way of hook-n-loop material. Notice how the ESC leads route up from below—nice and clean.

ElectriFly Super Stearman ARF You’ll find when you push the throttle up that the model will pretty much leap into the air and then climb well. If you want to do scalelike takeoffs, use about 50 percent power to get the tail up and flying.

Then you can just ease back on the elevator control and let the model climb in a scalelike fashion.

The Futaba R617FS receiver is mounted behind the You’ll want to push the battery forward as shown here Once the model battery and on the tray below the servos. Again, it is a to get the model’s center of gravity set properly for was in the air, I made very clean radio installation layout. optimum flight performance. sure it didn’t have any noticeable quirks such as a hard stall or tip stalling. It will loop, roll and fly inverted.

You’ll discover that the biplane has plenty of rudder authority too, so you should be able to perform knife-edge flight for short periods as well. What I like about this model is how well it loops and rolls.

With good throttle The interconnection between the lower aileron and The aileron servos are fastened to their respective management the loops upper is as simple as a carbon fiber control horn and hatches, with their pushrods using a Z-bend on the a pushrod. It works well. servo end and an easy connection at the control horn. are extremely round and the rolls can be straight and true.

You’ll want to land this model into ground effect. When you pull the that the well-placed wheel pants and with about 10 percent power. Fly power back all the way the model large wheels let this model operate with power on until it is about five will settle onto the runway nicely. from closely mown grass quite well. feet off the ground. Then start pulling You can easily do three-point landings All in all, the Great Planes Super power back and let it glide down with this little biplane. You’ll discover Stearman is an easy and enjoyable

The control connection for the elevator is straightforward. It is a pushrod that connects to the elevator’s control horn by way of a Z-bend, with adjustment possible at the servo.

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The control connection for the rudder is also straightforward. It is a pushrod that connects to the rudder’s control horn by way of a Z-bend, with adjustment possible at the servo.

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The Great Planes Super Stearman comes with a couple of pilots installed in the cockpits. This adds to the scale look and detailing of this fun-to-fly little park flyer.

flyer. What I like about this model is that I can drive a couple miles from my home to fly it in a park. Its motor is quiet, so none of the neighbors complain. When I’m done I simply put it in the car and drive home—no fuss, no mess. I think it is affordably priced too, which is another reason this biplane turns out to be a winner in my book.

Log Book

If you really want to detail this airplane you can paint the radial engine’s cylinders and add a spinner to it. I didn’t do so, but I think it would add to the look of this biplane.

I like this little Super Stearman.

It is a nice flyer. It handles well, does some mild aerobatics and is easy to fly out of the park near my home. The quality of the aircraft’s kit and components is absolutely first rate, so the build of the model was quite easy and fun to complete.

Consequently, I’m entering into my

log book that the ElectriFly Super Stearman ARF kit is an affordable, worthwhile project. It is a stunning, park flyer replica of one of aviation history’s legends of the air. I think it is one you’ll definitely want to add to your hangar.

Assembly Before you can get behind the controls of the Super Stearman, you must complete the model. The kit provides you with wings (top and bottom), vertical and horizontal stabilizers and a fuselage made of balsa and plywood construction that are covered. You get the wing and gear struts, tires, wheel pants and all the hardware. My airplane’s covering was wrinkled and required careful shrinking of the material before I started the assembly.

The airframe’s construction is simplified with interlocking parts, such as those of the fin and horizontal stabilizer. This eliminates time-consuming measuring when you are aligning the tail with the fuselage. The cowl comes prepainted, and it uses magnets to align and fasten it to the fuselage. The cockpit comes complete with painted dummy pilots and windscreens. It is held in place tightly with magnets too. Removing it provides easy battery access. The ailerons come factory hinged, which speeds the build greatly.

On top of the normal work required in the build of a quality ARF kit, some trimming of the horizontal stabilizer was required. I used a strip of 1/4-in.-wide card stock as a shim to align it parallel to the lower wing. Then the horizontal was glued in place with cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. Note that on my model there was a small amount of washout built into the lower wing, which ran from the fuselage to the wingtips. So, my model required that I carefully warp it some by heating the covering while loading the wing tips with upward force. Doing this allowed 54

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

me to connect the struts without having to stress the structure.

The APC 10x7E LP propeller balanced right out of its package. However, I recommend that you always check a propeller’s balance before using it on your airplane.

Also, the instructions for setting the model’s center of gravity (CG) were somewhat confusing. They are given with respect to the lower wing of the model instead of the top wing. If you accidentally set it to the top wing rather than the bottom, it could cause a serious, nose-heavy condition, so pay attention to this step in the instructions.

Once built, the aircraft isn’t really meant to be disassembled. That is not to say it can’t be done, but why bother? Given its small size, the aircraft will fit in most cars quite easily.

In regards to construction, the aircraft is relatively easy to build. You’ll need to pay attention to setting its CG properly. Other than that, it is a pretty straightforward build, and the instructions step you through it well. In flight, the handling and ease of operating the aircraft are first rate, as are aesthetics.

Together, the ElectriFly Super Stearman ARF kit is a worthwhile endeavor and a stunning replication of one of aviation history’s legends turned air show hot rod.

ElectriFly Super Stearman ARF The Rimfire .10 motor provides plenty of power for this model to perform about any scale aerobatic maneuver you can want.

Specifications From propeller to tailwheel this is an attractive scale park flyer. Great Planes provides an excellent, quality kit that assembles quickly and flies well.

Distributor Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Wingspan

36 in. (915 mm)

Length

29.5 in. (750 mm.)

Weight

2.25–2.75 lb (1020–1250 g.)

Wing Area

365 in.2 (23.5 dm2)

Wing Loading

14–17 oz/ft2 (43–52 g/dm2)

Motor

ElectriFly Rimfire® .10 outrunner

Speed Controller

ElectriFly 35-amp Silver Series

Propeller

APC 10x7E LP 10070E

Servos

(4) Futaba® S3114

Battery

22,000-mAh 11.1-V 25C Power Series LiPo

Receiver

Futaba R617FS 2.4-GHz

Transmitter

Futaba 8FG Super

Price

$149.97

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BY Anthony Richards The Blade Red Bull Bo-105 CBCX RTF is incredibly stable and a terrific fly indoors. You can be in the air 15 minutes after opening the box!

Red BulL BO-105 CB RTF

®

CX

Boost Your Day With This Fun Indoor Heli

U

nless you’ve been living under a rock for the past decade, you know about the popular energy drink Red Bull®. On top of manufacturing beverages, the Austrian company also sponsors extreme sports athletes, musicians and spinal cord research. Their relationship with aviation is a particularly close one, as hosts of the exciting Red Bull Air Races and the annual Flugtag competition, and founder of the impressive Flying Bulls airforce out of Hangar-7 at the Salzburg Airport.

In their fleet are rare warbirds, such as the Lockheed P-38 Lightning and Chance Vought F4U-4 Corsair, and a pair of Messerschmitt-Bölkow56

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

The two-part canopy gives it the appearance of one of the Flying Bulls’ modified stunt helicopters.

Blade® Red Bull® BO-105 CBCX RTF Blohm (MBB) BO-105 helicopters. Their BO105s are the only civil helicopters licensed for aerobatics, and they regularly perform on the European and North American air show circuits. Their exciting demonstrations include loops and rolls that energize the crowd and keep watchers on the edge of their seats.

The Bo-105 CBCX comes in an attractive box that Lucky for you, your protects it well during shipping. On the back is a brief biography of the Flying Bulls Bo-105 CBs. BO-105 CB is far more affordable than the fullscale version. Although your Blade® of your airspace and top performer Red Bull BO-105 CBCX won’t be able in the hallway. to tumble through the air like its full-scale counterpart, you will still be The Kit able to enjoy the high-performance The BO-105 CBCX Ready-To-Fly flight and incredible stability in (RTF) kit arrives in a small cardboard indoor flight that’ll make you master box with a plastic window in the

The 2.4-GHz transmitter, 1S LiPo, four AA batteries, a Philips head screwdriver, manual and the fully assembled heli are included in the box.

front that allows you to see your product before you open it.

Inside, a strong plastic packaging shell protects the contents from being damaged in transit. The helicopter is held down to the plastic by strips of tape to prevent it from This heli is perfect for a beginning pilot’s maiden flight. The self-stabilizing coaxial rotors give it super-smooth handling characteristics.

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The 4-in-1 PCB receiver/gyro/ESC/mixer and drive motors board result in an elegant interface and build.

The included E-Flite 1S 3.7-V 150-mAh 25C LiPo battery gives this heli five to seven minutes of flight time and charges in about 15.

shifting around when the box is moving.

Your RTF BO-105 kit includes a fully assembled, coaxial helicopter with a three-channel 2.4-GHz transmitter that incorporates a built-in single-cell Lithium Polymer (LiPo) charger, batteries to power the transmitter, a 1S 3.7-V 150-mAh LiPo battery and an instruction manual.

The two-part vacuum-formed canopy is trimmed in Flying Bulls colors to give your heli the scale appearance of the real helicopter. The counterrotating rotors provide easy stability and control over the model in flight.

This configuration eliminates the need for a tail rotor to counter the torque of the rotating blades.

What You Get

• Airframe Fuselage, canopy, landing skids • Batteries 1S 3.7-V 150 mAh 25C LiPo; (4) AA • Receiver The Bo-105 CBCX cannot flip through the air like its full-scale counterpart, but you’ll love its maneuverability in high rates indoors.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

The canopy not only gives your Bo-105 CBCX stunning looks but serves as a protective chassis.

Blade® Red Bull® BO-105 CBCX RTF

Just 7.87 in. long and weighing an ounce, this miniature heli is the perfect size to fly indoors.

4-in-1 PCB Rx/gyro/ESC/mixer w/ drive motors • Transmitter Blade 3-channel 2.4-GHz w/ builtin LiPo charger • Hardware Philips screwdriver • Manual Hardcopy & PDF online

The Kit

You don’t need anything to complete this kit; the helicopter comes factory assembled. Just charge the battery.

In Flight

This little helicopter is a lot of fun to fly for beginning or experienced pilots. I recommend popping the throttle to just over half to jump it out of ground effect on takeoff.

Once airborne, it’s very easy to fly

and super smooth under low rates.

Pushing the right stick in once will change to high rates for a boost in agility and response. Experienced coaxial heli pilots will feel a little more at home with this setting. I’ve flown RC helicopters before, and it felt a little odd at first to be yawing with the right stick, but it didn’t take long to adjust.

Landing is a breeze. Thankfully, if you’re a little quick to throttle down on your first landing, this little bugger can take a few hard touchdowns.

Distributor Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 (217) 352-1913 horizonhobby.com

Conclusion

The Blade Red Bull BO-105CBCX is a fun-to-fly helicopter that sells for just $69.99. It comes prebuilt and ready to fly, has a short charge time for the battery and flies exceptionally well. Any pilot will enjoy this affordable fun flyer.

Specifications Rotor diameter

7.48 in. (190 m)

Length

7.87 in. (200 mm)

Height

4.72 in. (120 mm)

Weight

1.02 oz (29 g)

Battery

1S 3.7-volt 150 mAh 25C LiPo

Receiver

4-in-1 PCB Rx/gyro/ESC/ mixer w/ drive motors

Transmitter

Blade 3-channel 2.4-GHz w/ built-in LiPo charger

Price

$69.99

Assembly The Blade Red Bull BO-105 CBCX requires no assembly. The helicopter is already assembled and wired to go right out of the box. All that needs to be done is to bind the transmitter to the heli’s receiver.

To bind the transmitter, plug in the charged battery to the helicopter and wait for the light under the canopy to start blinking quickly. Then press and hold the right stick on the transmitter in and turn it on while doing so. Let go of the stick when the transmitters chimes. It should continue to beep, and the light on the

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heli should begin to blink slowly. When both the beeping and the blinking stop, the radio system should be bound.

Wiggle the right stick around and listen for the movement of the servo on the heli. Apply just enough throttle to turn the rotors to ensure the motors work.

Bring the throttle back completely, center the stick and prepare for your first flight, because that is all you have left to do. Enjoy!

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BY Steve Rojecki

P-47D-40 Thunderbolt ARF This 30-cc Powered Jug is Scale And You’ll Like It!

High-speed flybys are an absolute blast with the P-47. Loaded up with the ordnance and external tank it looks like it means business. The E-Flite Power 160 motor has plenty of punch even with all the extras hung on.

T

he Republic Aircraft P-47 Thunderbolt, also known as the”Jug,” was one of the most prolific Allied aircraft of World War II (WWII). The prototype first flew in May of 1941. More than 15,000 Thunderbolts were built during the war and used by military forces of more than 25 countries. Compared with the better-known P-51 Mustang, which weighed a trim 12,000 lb, the P-47 was one of the largest of the WWII fighters, weighing in at 17,500 lb. The airplane was universally loved for its rugged construction and tremendous firepower. It could take The Hangar 9 P-47 in all of its glory!

Bombs, external fuel tank and static fourbladed paddle propeller are attached.

Hangar 9 also includes three sets of decals for customizing your P-47.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Hangar 9® P47D-40 Thunderbolt a lot of hits and still get the pilots back home.

It was so strong, some pilots elected to crashland with the airplane rather than bail out if there was an engine failure.

Throughout its production, the Thunderbolt went through several evolutions. The most The Hangar 9 P-47 was packaged well and arrived The P-47 has all the pushrods cut to the proper obvious was the without damage. All the major components are length. It’s easy to slide them into the preinstalled finished, and the final assembly requires only a few pushrod guides, add the clevis ends and hook them up transition from the evenings to ready the airplane for flight. to the control horns. “razorback” canopy to the “bubble” canopy, which happened later in the war. This drastically improved the rear visibility of the cockpit and was subsequently copied to several other fighters.

The other significant improvement to the Jug was the addition of what is known as the paddle-blade propeller.

Developed by Curtiss Fuselage-mounted servos drop into the pre-made The E-Flite Power 160 mounts easily in the airframe.

Aircraft, this propeller servo trays. There is plenty of room for all of the Hangar 9 supplies an optional electric power system greatly improved the radio equipment, including the servos, receiver, motor box. The Castle Creation ICE controller fits switches and batteries. nicely behind the motor and allows for short lead P-47’s low-altitude climb hookup. rate. This boosted its air-to-air performance against German fighters, The big grin says it all. This was a fantastic project that culminated with the great flying including 20 kills against the German qualities of this P-47. At high speeds or slow and dirty, the P-47 is as stable as a rock. This inspires pilot confidence. jet fighter, the Me-262.

Hangar 9’s P-47 is modeled to incorporate these improvements and demonstrate a battle-ready brawn that reflects the performance and prestige this aircraft delivered.

The Kit

The Hangar 9 P-47D-40 Thunderbolt 30-cc Almost-Ready-toFly (ARF) model arrived at my home in a double-boxed cardboard box.

The outer box sustained the normal bumps and scratches, while the artwork box beneath was undamaged.

Inside the box I found that all the airframe parts were individually wrapped in plastic and secured to the shipping box, so they arrived unscathed. All the hardware and accessories are packed in individual boxes that keep them in the proper

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order for assembly.

Removing the airframe from the box, I was amazed by the quality of the laser cutting and top-notch UltraCote® covering job. There are many scale details already included with this ARF. The wheel wells and cockpit tub are already painted in zinc chromate color.

The P-47 ailerons servos mount internally, which Extra details include provides a nice, clean installation. The JR 8321 servos wheel well doors, provide plenty of power and deliver perfect centering as only digital servos do. antennas, simulated guns, a pitot tube, a static display fourbladed propeller, cooling doors, bombs and an external fuel tank. All are ready to install and will give your new model an authentic look.

Flap servos and their linkages are completely hidden.

The bottom hinging allows for large flap deflections and provides the P-47 the ability to fly at very slow landing airspeeds.

Lil Abner was flown during WWII by Pilot Joe Angelone of the 66th Fighter Squadron. Lil Abner was the nickname of his mechanic Homer Duchon, who had a striking resemblance to a well-known cartoon character of the time.

What You Get

• Airframe Fuselage, canopy, wings, empennage, painted fiberglass cowl • Hardware Wheels, landing gear, wing spars, mock bombs, bomb racks, external fuel tanks, simulated radial engine, fuel tank (for gas), battery tray (for electric), cockpit details, screws/nuts

Needed to Complete

• Motor E-Flite® Power 160 Brushless motor, 245-Kv • Propeller APC 18x12E • Prop hub TruTurn 1-1/2-in. P-47 B-style hub • Batteries (2) E-Flite 5S 18.5-volt 5000-mAh LiPo; JR 6-V 2700-mAh NiMH • Speed controller Castle Creations 80-amp ICE • Receiver Spektrum® AR10100 • Transmitter Spektrum DX18 • Servos (7) JR 8231 • Charge switches (2) JR A004 heavy duty • Adhesives Thin/medium cyanoacrylate (CA), 30-minute epoxy, thread lock 62

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Wheel landings are a piece of cake flying the P-47. It slows down nicely with full flaps and a little power adjustment for a soft touchdown. The shock-style retracts help as well when your touchdown is less than perfect.

Hangar 9® P47D-40 Thunderbolt

Down and dirty, the P-47 is exceptionally stable and allows for very controlled slowspeed flybys. Even on windy days it was predictable and was well damped in the choppy conditions.

In Flight

First flights are always exciting for several reasons. There’s the excitement of a new airplane as well as the fun you anticipate in flying it for many months or years to come.

Then there is the worry of what things can go wrong—out-of-trim conditions, equipment problems and human error. The takeoff of my new the P-47 was about as anti-climactic an event as I’ve ever had. The airplane

only required a few clicks of trim and it was off to battle.

The P-47 is very stable and forgiving at both high and low speeds.

It was, therefore, easy to maneuver the airplane to get the photos for this article. The low-speed stability is especially noteworthy. With the gear and flaps down, the P-47 locks in on final and requires only a small amount of flare to make fantastic wheel landings for scale-like touchdowns.

High speed flight is a blast. Strafing runs down the runway excited the local peanut gallery—mostly retired military guys, and all scale enthusiasts.

With all its scale attachments, the airplane looks great in the air! Basic aircraft handling is excellent. Rolls and loops are easy to accomplish, and there is plenty of power from the E-Flite Power 160 motor to pull it through loops, Immelmanns and stall turns, even though it’s loaded down with the simulated bombs and external fuel tank. Stalls are a nonevent, both clean and dirty. These great flying characteristics give you a lot of confidence while flying the airplane, knowing it’s not going to bite you at an inopportune moment.

Even after the first flight I knew this was a keeper, and subsequent flights reinforced that opinion. It’s just a blast to fly both in strafing runs and full flap touch-and-go landings.

Hangar 9 has created a winner in this legendary aircraft.

Conclusion

Hangar 9 has done an outstanding job building the P-47 ARF. It was very installation and set-up time were less than half what it takes to put in air retracts.

One can even stagger the electric retracts’ movement for more scale-like action.

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I just wanted to share what my model looks like in front of a fullscale P-47. As you can see the radial engine in the full-scale model was huge and powerful.

There were lots of rivets that held the full-scale P-47 together. My P-47 will come apart with just a couple of screws. Notice the scale propeller that I’ve added to my model.

Slow flybys with flaps out and gear up show off the ultra-stable flight characteristics of the Hangar 9 P-47.

Not to mention these photo/spectator passes are a lot of fun to fly.

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Hangar 9® P47D-40 Thunderbolt easy to put the Jug together following the in-depth instructions. The Robart electric retracts are an excellent addition too, with their scale retract speeds and the option of one gear retracting a moment earlier than the other, which completes the airplane’s scale appearance as it takes off. Also, I found that the Spektrum DX18 transmitter is a real joy to program.

The software is very intuitive, so it makes for quick setup when adjusting functions like flap mixing and movement speeds. It also has a built-in gear door sequencer to get that last bit of scale look out of

your model. The Spektrum AR10100 receiver I put in the model has been rock solid, and I can count on the JR servos to deliver the speed and power the P-47 needs. The combination of the E-Flite Power 160 and the Castle Creation controller has proven to be up to the task of reliably powering this beast. Both run cool as a cucumber, even when I crank up the power for strafing runs and high-speed passes.

My P-47 ARF has really been a lot of fun to assemble and even more fun to put through its paces!

Control Throws Low Rates (Up/Down)

High Rates (Up/Down)

Exponential Low Rates High Rates

9/16 in. (14 mm)

3/4 in. (19 mm)

Ailerons

20%

30%

7/16 in. (11 mm)

9/16 in. (14 mm)

Elevator

20%

40%

Elevator

3/4 in. (19 mm)

1-1/8 in. (29 mm)

Rudder

20%

25%

Rudder

3/4 in. (19 mm)

1-1/8 in. (29 mm)

Ailerons

Assembly The P-47 comes with a 56-page assembly manual. It includes numerous pictures and building tips. In addition, Horizon Hobby has a video series on their website where John Redman goes through a series of scale enhancements that will make your P-47 the envy of everyone at your airfield. As with most Hangar 9 kits, much of the important and difficult work is done at the factory.

The assembly consists of hinging the finished control surfaces, installing the servos and hooking up the control linkages. The manual recommends control surface throws and mixes for the flap and elevator, so there is no large pitching moment (ballooning) when the flaps deploy. I set the flap deployment speed for four seconds, which further prevents ballooning.

The retract installation requires a little more attention. The Robart electricpowered units are a drop-in fit, but the wheel wells have a false rib (used in construction) that needs to be relieved in order for the wheel to completely retract. After grinding the rib down, you’ll want to use a little zinc chromate paint to touch it up.

To finish up the retracts, the gear doors need to be mounted. The doors are made of flat sheet plastic and painted silver to match the UltraCote® covering on the wing. The main door is bolted to the landing gear strut. This door will need to be slightly curved to close flush with the wing. This was easy to do using a heat gun to warm the door and then bending it until the door cooled. It takes a few tries to get it right, but the main door will close flush over the wheel well. There are two options for installing the inner door. I chose the easy way, as suggested in the manual, of trimming the door to allow the wheel to retract and leaving the wheel partially uncovered. The second option is to hinge the inner doors and mount a couple of small servos in the wheel well, which will open and close them independently. The DX18 transmitter has a door sequencer in its programming, which makes sequencing easy to incorporate. As part of the hop-up video series Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Specifications Wingspan

81.25 in. (2.1 m)

Wing Area

1164 in.2 (75.1 dm2)

Length

71 in. (1.8 m)

Weight

16–19 lb (7.3–8.6 kg)

Motor

E-Flite Power 160 Brushless motor, 245-Kv

Propeller

APC 18x12E

Prop Hub

Tru Turn 1-1/2-in. P-47 B-Style Hub

Batteries

(2) E-Flite 5S 18.5-V 5000mAh LiPo, JR 6- 2700-mAh NiMH

Speed controller

Castle Creations 80-amp ICE

Receiver

Spektrum AR10100

Transmitter

Spektrum DX18

Servos

(7) JR 8231

Price

$679.99

Distributor Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 (217) 352-1913 horizonhobby.com

on the Horizon Hobby website, John Redman covers the inner door hinging in detail (hangar-9.com/Articles/Article.aspx?ArticleID=2349).

The next task is the fuselage assembly. It is a breeze to get everything installed. All of the servo mounting trays are pre-made, and the servos just drop in. All of the pushrods are pre-built to their proper lengths and slide into preinstalled plastic tubes that run back to the elevator and rudder. The fixed tail wheel installation requires a little time to trim back the UltraCote and mount the wheel assembly. When installing a retractable tail wheel, there is a small modification to the mount and the tail wheel cover you must be mindful of. I chose the fixed tail wheel option as it was the most lightweight, easiest to build and cheapest option.

Moving on to the motor installation, I opted to power my P-47 with an E-Flite Power 160 brushless motor. Hangar 9 offers a well-made box mount that sets the Power 160 at the precise distance from the firewall so that the motor mates correctly with respect to the cowl. A drill guide is provided for the various engine choices, including the Power 160. This makes quick work of mounting the power plant so that it has the correct thrust alignment. I mounted the Castle Creation ICE controller close to the motor to keep all the wires as short as possible. Due to center of gravity (CG) positioning, I also mounted the airborne battery and the retract battery next to the motor. With both batteries mounted forward, the CG was perfectly positioned, so no dead weight was needed up front.

The last thing you’ll do to finish your P-47 is mount the canopy to its frame with canopy glue.

My Hangar 9 P-47 only took a few evenings to ready for flight. The prefabrication was excellent, and all the parts fit together well. If you have assembled a few ARFs previously, you will have no difficulty assemblying the Hangar 9 P-47.

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BY Wil Byers

Albatros 2.4S/E ARF An LMR Machine that Makes Thermal Searching Fun Again!

L

imited Motor Run (LMR) soaring has gotten a huge shot in the arm from Altitude Limited Electric Soaring (ALES). While FAI F5J soaring competition never really caught on for LMR gliders and sailplanes, ALES is shaping up to be the hottest thing in soaring to come along in a very long time.

Electronic control modules such as the Sky Limit by Winged Shadow Systems (wingedshadow.com) and

The nostalgic design lines of the Albatros 2.4S/E give it a striking look in the air. The transparent covering also helps with visibility.

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Esprit Albatros 2.4S/E ARF

Your Albatros 2.4 kit will include everything you need to get the glider flying except for servos, motor, battery and so on. The jig for cutting the nose off the fuselage is extra too.

the CAM controller by Soaring Circuits (soaringcircuits.com) have given a huge boost to the ALES competition format. They have done so because they make it easy to monitor a glider’s motor runtime and/or altitude. The result is, now a competition can be flown in manon-man format where all the gliders launch at one time. The glider is

Here is what I bought from Esprit for my Albatros 2.4S/E. The MVVS gives it plenty of climbing power when combined with a Thunder Power 2700-mAh 3S LiPo battery.

limited by either its launch altitude or its motor run time. The competition is then centered around the pilot thermalling or soaring the glider for a specified duration. It is pilot and contest director friendly, and this fun, fair competition is literally taking off!

The Albatros 2.4S/E is ideally suited for LMR ALES-type competition and all-out fun flying. It is

a beautiful model both on the ground and in the air. It has the classic design lines of a Bird of Time glider; this model, however, incorporates stateof-the-art construction methods, including carbon fiber, laser cutting and high-quality covering. Its built-up construction for the wing integrates a carbon spar that is strong enough to withstand both winch launches

The Albatros 2.4S/E is a good pick for getting into ALES soaring and competition. It is affordable and easy to assemble too.

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This plywood jig makes cutting the nose off the fuselage to turn the glider into an LMR machine easy and quick to do.

You’ll want to use a sharp Zona-type saw to cut the nose off the fuselage. During the cut it must be held tightly against the jig.

Look at how clean this motor mount is—four bolts and lots of holes to get cooling air into the motor and around it.

The orange transparent covering makes this model very easy to see in the air because the light from above makes it “pop.”

and high-powered motor runs, which will get it to soaring altitude in mere seconds.

The model I received for this review came with a white, gel-coated fiberglass fuselage and a transparent orange wing. Looking into the wing, you can see the leading edge tube is carbon fiber, which is trailed by laser-cut balsa ribs. The center section of the wing uses a big flap to control the airplane’s landing speed.

The outer panels sport ailerons, which are generously sized to give

the model good roll control. Servo wells are built into the bottom of the two-piece wing for the flaps and the ailerons and are perfectly sized for the Hitec RCD servos. From spinner to rudder this model is built to be lightweight yet so strong it will deliver a superb soaring experience to its pilot—sport or competitor.

Kit Contents

Once the nose of the fuselage is cut off you will want to sand the fiberglass back to the jig, which you will use to set the motor’s incidence angles.

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The motor mount glues into the nose of the fuselage.

You’ll do this by fitting the motor to the mount and using the spinner to align everything to the fuselage.

• • • • • • • • •

Fuselage w/ canopy Wings Horizontal stabilizer Rudder Hardware package Pushrods & joiners Servo well covers Manual Decal Sheet

Esprit Albatros 2.4S/E ARF

Needed to Complete

• Motor (1) MVVS 3.5/960 • Controller (1) Jeti Advance 40 Pro SB • Battery (1) TP2700-mAh 3S • Servos (2) HS-65HB (ailerons), (2) HS65MG (flaps), (2) HS85BB (rudder, elevator) • Spinner (1) BB 40/5/8 mm • Propeller (1) Aeronaut 12x8 • Connector (1) Deans • Extensions (2) 36 in., (4) 6 in.

• Strap (1) Velcro® for folding prop • Jig (1) Building Services • Transmitter Jeti DC-16 • Receiver Jeti R7 w/ telemetry

Esprit’s hook-n-loop propeller retainer is a nice addon to your order because it will keep the propeller out of harm’s way during transit and storage.

The elevator and rudder installation in the fuselage could not be easier to do. Adjustments are quick and simple too by way of easy connectors.

The piano wire pushrod uses a Z-bend at the rudder end. It runs through a sheath to the servos, so there is no slop in this control linkage.

The servo tray that came with my Albatros 2.4 was made for standard servos, so I made another mount to fit the Hitec servos my model is fitted with.

In Flight

I started the test flight of the new Albatros 2.4 S/E by performing a radio range test at home before leaving for the flying site.

When I got to the site it was 26 degrees and the sky was overcast. It did not look like a promising day to

With the propeller folded back on the fuselage, this LMR machine has minimal airframe drag.

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test a glider. Was I wrong! Although it was cold, it was the perfect day to test-fly this glider because the lift was weak, but just enough to really see if this model was soarable. It was!

For the first flight I powered the model up to about 100 ft. The MVVS motor, getting electrons from the Thunder Power 2700-mAh battery pack, will take this glider straight up, so you don’t need to push the throttle all the way up, unless of course you just want to have some fun. Once the power was pulled off it took just a slight touch of down elevator control to transition the glider to level flight. Then the fun really began.

This model took zero trimming of the controls in both roll and pitch, with two clicks of right trim for the rudder. It was well coordinated in the turns. As a rule, I fly my models with the rudder uncoupled, so I lead the turns with a little bit of rudder to keep them coordinated. Once in the thermal turn you’ll need to RC-SF.COM

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hold just a bit of back elevator control to have this model doing very flat and efficient circles.

When I dropped the flaps I was completely surprised to find that the model needed an ever-so-slight amount of down elevator control.

Additionally, once the flaps were down I found that I could let off the Do this—label the servos per their control surface and down elevator control then center them relative to their respective control and the model would surface before putting them into the model. stay in that attitude, which makes landing it a lot of fun.

What you’ll enjoy about this model is that while it’s not super fast it has a very flat glide.

When I ranged it out and up and down the face of the hill (the wind was nearly non-existent) it indicated lift extremely well. Circling it in lift is very easy too. You’ll be pleased with the way After you cut open the servo bays you’ll want to use a covering iron to seal the covering tight to the it climbs once in lift as opening’s wood so it will not come loose later. well. You’ll just want to hold back a bit on the up elevator control to maintain the I suggest you use a square of some type to align the servo perpendicular to the airspeed in the circles, and the model control surface’s hinge line. will reward you by heading for the sky.

Finally, and I think this is very As you can see, the Albatros 2.4S/E important, it does not have a nasty has very clean design lines, which make for low drag and a very stall. It will break to the right or left respectable L/D ratio. when you slow it down, but it does

As you can see, the airfoil has a bit of undercamber built into it, which means it is designed to help this model soar well.

Hard foam blocks are used to index the servos in their respective positions in the servo well. They make short work of the install.

not snap over hard. Recovery from the stalls is as easy as easing off the elevator control and letting it build speed for about 10 ft and then pulling the model to gliding speed again.

My Debrief

If you are getting enthused about flying LMR gliders or if you are looking for a new ALES machine, you should consider this model. It is not a super-fast glider, but it will range out if you command it to do so.

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Esprit Albatros 2.4S/E ARF You must program the ESC brake so that it stops the propeller from spinning once the power is off and the model is in glide mode.

In this profile shot of the model, you can see that the transparent covering shows up well, even against the overcast and gray sky.

the light lift and ease of handling. It does whatever you tell it to do. The other thing I like about this model is how well you can see it in the air.

The transparent covering seemed to shine and made it extremely easy to spot at long distances. I think you will enjoy the Albatros 2.4S/E, so give it a close look when you are hunting for a new ALES glider for the upcoming soaring season.

Wingspan

96 in.

Length

54.5 in.

Airfoil

MH 32

Wing Area

846 in.2

Wing Loading

9-10 oz/ft2

Weight

52 oz

Motor

MVVS 25 2.3/960 brushless

ESC

Jeti Advance 40 Pro SB

Battery

Thunder Power 2700-mAh 3S

Propeller

Aeronaut 12x8 folder

Spinner

BB 40/5/8 mm folder

Price

$395

Build Building the Albatros 2.4 is about as straightforward as it gets. The manual is only a pictorial, but it takes you step by step through the assembly.

I started with the wings. The wing servos’ mounting locations require that you remove the covering. You’ll want to cut the covering approximately 1/8 in. inside the opening. Then you’ll make slits around the circumference so that you can iron the covering down around the edges of the opening.

You’ll need to hinge the flaps and ailerons with clear Mylar hinge tape, which you can also buy from Esprit.

For my Albatros glider I used 12-in. servo extensions to the aileron servos. I carefully removed the male connector (see Making Servo Leads in this issue) so as not to damage their plastic locking tabs. The wire was then routed through the tube built into the wing to the root. There the connector was reattached to the servo’s lead.

The center section of the wing then required two 24-in. and two 36-in. extensions. Again, the male ends were removed and the leads routed to the center wing panel where the connectors were then reattached. To make removal of the wing easy, an eight-pin Multiplex connector was soldered to the lead about three inches from the bottom wing’s surface.

Mounting the wing servos was a snap. The hard Rochelle foam mount blocks needed a small notch cut in them to fit tightly to the servos (in my case Hitec RCD). Also, the blocks’ thickness required sanding to fit under the lower wing skin just a fraction.

Before gluing the servo blocks, with servos, in place, I checked them for fit and centered them with respect to their individual control surfaces. I used five-minute epoxy to glue them securely in place. Do one servo at a time and be sure to use the epoxy sparingly.

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Distributor

Specifications

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 Espritmodel.com

Control Throws Up

Down

Expo

Ailerons

3/4 in.

1/4 in.

20%

Elevator

1/4 in.

1/4 in.

20%

Rudder

1-1/2 in.

Flaps

450 & 900

Center of Gravity Placed at leading edge of wing tube.

I encountered a slight problem when installing the fiberglass wing joiner rod—a restriction at the second rib location. I removed it by attaching sandpaper to a rod and then sanding that location until the restriction was gone.

Note that mounting the wing required that the plywood wing plate be bonded forward of the opening in the fuselage. Pay attention to this so that there is plenty of material there for the blind nuts.

Installing parts in the fuselage is so straightforward that even a beginner could do it, albeit with some supervision for confidence. Esprit sells a jig that makes the motor installation about as easy as it gets, without having the firewall factory install. The jig is designed to hold the fuselage in precisely the right position for cutting the nose off. You only need a nice, sharp razor. When you cut against the jig, it will put the proper down and right thrust angle into the nose of the fuselage for the motor. You’ll fit the motor to its mount and then bond the mount in place with epoxy. I held the mount in place while the epoxy cured, using the spinner’s collet as a guide relative to the nose of the fuselage.

You’ll want to glue the servo tray in the fuselage with a fillet of epoxy and flocked cotton fiber. Installing the servos is detailed in the pictorial.

I recommend you program the Jeti ESC for brake and battery type next.

You’ll do so by following the ESC instructions, which combine throttle stick movements with turn procedure. The motor and speed control are then removed and reinstalled in the glider. Be certain to use 3-mm cap screws and blue thread locking compound so they don’t back out in flight. Attach the collet spinner to the motor and fit the propeller.

My Albatros balanced with its Thunder Power 2700-mAh 3S LiPo pack placed about one inch behind the motor and on the left side of the fuselage.

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BY Wil Byers

Mystique 2.9-m ARF Throttle Up with this LMR Glider for Super Soaring

The E-flite Mystique is a very wellcoordinated sailplane in between ailerons and rudder, which makes it very easy to fly in thermals.

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RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

E

lectric-powered sailplanes and gliders are without question the origins of electric-powered airplanes. It all started back in 1969 when Bob Boucher and his brother Roland started the company AstroFlight. Their goal was to build a radio controller sailplane to use in AMA competitions. They did this with the Malibu. The future of electricpowered airplanes was changed from then on.

Much has changed since 1969.

Modelers pretty much take brushless motors, speed controllers and LiPo battery packs for granted. What has changed more recently is the introduction of Altitude Limited Electric Soaring (ALES). As the name implies, ALES is a new format that makes use of an innovative little circuit that monitors an airplane’s altitude or motor runtime. When a preset altitude or motor runtime is reached it shuts off the model’s motor. As a result, a new class of

E-flite Mystique 2.9-m ARF competition has been spawned, with the promise of changing glider competitions. You can learn more about ALES by pointing your web browser at alesleague.org.

What the ALES class has done as well is give impetus to the creation of some new Limited Motor Run (LMR) gliders. One such glider is the new and exciting E-flite Mystique 2.9-m-wingspan, almostready-to-fly (ARF) glider.

It is an electric-powered sailplane inspired by F5J-class competition and LMR events. Both these classes are extremely popular.

Like most sailplanes focused on performance, the Mystique 2.9-m sailplane delivers an outstanding RC soaring experience, even if all you’re looking for is a glider to enjoy on a lazy afternoon. Its impressive wing design employes the versatile Selig S3021 airfoil that’s proven to be excellent in model applications with lightweight, openbay construction by offering good low-speed characteristics, as well as the ability to move quickly from thermal to thermal. The contour of the molded fiberglass fuselage is sleek yet provides ample room for its pushrods to run internally and still have room for a powerful LiPo motor battery.

The kit includes a well-made composite fuselage with factory-installed servo tray. The wings come covered and ready for servo installation.

The combination of Spektrum and E-flite gear will have your model ready to fly in almost no time. This is one of the easy models you’ll find to build.

The motor installation could not be easier because even the mount is factory installed. Note that I swapped two wires to reverse the motor’s rotation.

The 3S 3200-mAh battery is held in place with hookn-loop material. A remote receiver is held to the side of the fuselage with a bit of Velcro tape.

Look at how clean the servo installation is in this model. You just drop the servos into place and then screw them down—harden the screw’s holes with CA.

You’ll want to mount the receiver between the elevator and rudder pushrods. It makes for clean wire runs to all the servos.

What you Get I got the Mystique as an electric-powered glider, but you can also build it as a pure sailplane. What you get is the fuselage with

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fiberglass canopy, wings, elevator and rudder. The wings are built-up balsa with spruce spars. The covering is very well done with genuine Hangar 9® UltraCote. The flaps and ailerons come factory hinged. The wings’ and horizontal stabilizers’ joiners are carbon fiber. The kit contains all the hardware you’ll need too, even the pushrods for the elevator and rudder. E-flite provides an

I like how the linkage comes with a built-in lock to prevent the pushrod from coming loose of its control horn inadvertantly during flight.

74

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

excellent 28-page manual that will step you through the build, including how to set up the model and program the speed controller.

You’ll like the spacious room inside the fuselage for all the control gear plus the motor, speed controller, receiver and battery pack. It is open and accessible. I especially like the laser cut servo tray that fits the servos perfectly, which makes radio installation easy! The wings also have hatches that you’ll mount the servos on—they make assembly quick and easy. And of course there are pull strings in the wings for pulling the servo leads into the wings of the Mystique. It is very well engineered and thought out.

The elevator is full flying, so it uses an internal bellcrank in the fin of the sailplane, with a direct run from the pushrod to the servo.

E-flite Mystique 2.9-m ARF

Kit Includes

• Fuselage Canopy, bellcrank, servo tray • Surfaces Wings, elevators, rudder • Hardware Carbon joiners, pushrods, control horns, clevises, hinges, tape, servo covers • Manual Hardcopy & PDF from website

Needed to Complete

• Servos (2) Spektrum A4020, (4) A7020 • Extensions (2) 3-in., (4) 9-in., (2) 24-in.

• Receiver Spektrum AR7010 • Motor E-flite Power 25 • Propeller E-flite 14 x 8 folder • Spinner 1.57 in. (40 mm) • ESC 60-amp brushless • Battery 11.1-V 3S 3200mAh 30C LiPo • Transmitter DX-18 Used

You need to mount the servos with respect to their hatches. You’ll also want to cut a slot in them for the control horn to extend through.

I cut the servo’s control arms off as shown here. I recommend you round all the corners just to keep things clean and tidy.

In Flight

Go ahead, hit the throttle switch on this machine and watch it take off for the sky!

What I found—after doing a radio range test of my Spektrum DX-18 transmitter talking to The flaps are driven from the top of the wing, so I used blue painters’ tape to protect the rudder from you’ll want to bend their pushrods as you see here to excess epoxy that may come out of the slot in the the AR7010 receiver—is get maximum down travel. rudder when the control horn is glued in place. that the model is ready to give you some super The model did not need any soaring. Even on the first flights, clicks of right trim to have it flying trim adjustments to the elevator which were performed at Kiona straight and level. However, when or rudder. You’ll definitely want to Butte in 26-degree weather, this I landed it I saw that it had a slight program the brake on the ESC so model is designed to give you some amount of extra washout in the left that the propeller does not spin once absolutely super soaring and thermal wing. I’ve since taken it out by heating you pull the power back. I did not on the covering while twisting the wing. soaring. its first flight and had to program it I expect the model will fly straight as Following that first launch I found for the next flight. an arrow now. that my model needed about 10 Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

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If you buy a Mystique you’ll want to download the Spektrum setup program from our website. It will save you an hour or two of programming time.

After a few flights, here is what I found. This is an excellent-flying 2.9-m LMR sailplane. Even in the 26-degree weather I was able to find thermals.

The model indicates lift exceedingly well. Once you’ve got it in the lift it climbs well too, especially when you’ve turn the transmitter into the thermal mode, which puts the flaps

The Power 25 motor in combination with the E-flite 3S 3200-mAh LiPo battery pack delivers plenty of power to take this model to soaring altitude quickly and many times.

and ailerons down about five degrees.

Additionally, the model has “legs” so it will move out when you need to get it out of sink. It is superb how quickly this model transititions from thermal to speed mode.

Hit the power and this sailplane is going up too. The Power 25 outrunner does not lack for pulling

power, which means you’ll have the model at soaring altitude in no time.

Landings are unbelievably easy. You just pull the spoiler stick (throttle) down, and the flaps will drop and the model will slow down to a crawl.

You’ll want to add lots of rudder control during the approach, but other than that landings are easy!

My Mystique is set up with Launch, Cruise, Thermal and Speed flight modes via its Spektrum system, which talks to my DX-18 transmitter.

Flick a switch for any mode.

The Mystique lands very nice when you drop the flaps and pull the power back. Here I’m doing a flyby for the camera man, and then going back up for more flying.

The Build The Mystique is an easy assembly. All control horn locations are precut, so you only need to tape the covers in place once the servos are installed. The servo tray in the fuselage is factory installed, and the ailerons and flaps are Mylar hinged and ready for the control horns to be fitted.

Really about the only thing I had to do was for the flap linkage, which comes out of the top of the wing. I made a slight bend in the control linkage and lengthened the exit hole slot. The flap servo pushrods protrude through the top of the wings, so once the servos are glued to their hatches you’ll just screw the hatches to their respective wings. This design for the flaps lets them go down about 50 degrees, but you can easily make them go even farther if needed.

The rudder hinge locations are predrilled, so you only need to epoxy the hinges into the rudder and its post. The aileron and flap servo extensions get routed through the “D” section of the wing, which makes for a clean, open structure in the wings.

The design and assembly of the Mystique has been well thought out, so there 76

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

is no cutting required, and the only drilling needed is for the rudder and elevator servo mounting screws.

This airframe literally falls together with little effort on the part of the builder, plus the instructions will step you through the build very well.

Using the recommended Spektrum A7020 and 4020 digital servos provides very good control, and they fit the Mystique perfectly, so I definitely recommend them over other choices.

It was necessary to reverse the Power 25 motor’s shaft to fit this application.

This meant that I had to swap two of the power leads so that the motor would turn in the proper direction for the E-flite folding propeller. The E-flite propeller and spinner combo (EFL490511) has a nicely machined collet-type aluminum prop hub. This gets covered by a spun aluminum spinner, which incorporates a cooling hole for the Power 25 outrunner.

Programming is easy too, but if you want to download a setup, point your browser at rc-sf.com/spektrum and download the file 24Mystique PG.SPM.

E-flite Mystique 2.9-m ARF

Debrief

No matter how you look at the Mystique it just has great design lines, which tell you it is going to fly and thermal well. It certainly delivers.

This is a truly wonderful LMR sailplane. It is a superb value considering how easy it is to assemble and ready for flight. The real value of this sailplane, however, is in its performance. I mean, I was test-flying it for about 20 minutes in 26-degree temperatures, and soaring it! Can you imagine how well this machine will perform in temperatures that are actually conducive to thermal generation? The Mystique sailplane will give you hours of soaring on any day if you want it ...

Specifications

The test flights were performed in 26-degree temperatures in very weak lift. The model performed extremely well even so!

Center of Gravity

Control Throws Up

Down

Expo

Ailerons

18°

12°

25%

Elevator

15°

15°

10%

Rudder

30°

30°

15%

Flaps

30° for landing; reflex 1/16 in. up; camber 1/8 in. down

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4.75 in. back of wing’s leading edge at wing root

Wingspan

114 in. (2.9 m)

Length

58.5 in.

Wing area

1034 in.2

Weight

4.20–4.60 lb

Powered weight

4.85–5.00 lb

Wing loading

10.9 oz/ft2

Airfoil

Selig 3021

Flaps

Yes

Motor

E-flite Power 25

Transmitter

6 channel min. (DX-18 used)

Servos

6 required (2 mini, 4 thinwing)

Trim scheme

UltraCote® white, transparent red & yellow

Propeller

E-flite 14 x 8 folder

Spinner

1.57 in. (40 mm)

ESC

60-amp brushless

Battery

11.1-V 3S 3200-mAh 30C

Assembly time

10–15 hours

Assembly required

Yes

Price

$369.99

Distributor Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

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NEW Hangar 9 Meridian 10cc ARF ®

The Hangar 9 Meridian 10cc embodies the pure joy of what RC sport flying is about. From its long fuselage and stylishly shaped tail surfaces to the super stability of its generously proportioned constant-chord wing, every feature ties together into a perfect, next-level sport airplane with forgiving manners that appeal to the veteran RC pilot as much as the novice who wants a comfortable second airplane. Modern construction makes this airplane exceptionally lightweight without sacrificing strength. In addition, its functional flaps add a level of capability that complements the ease and grace in which this low-wing model performs sport aerobatics and smooth landings. ®

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SPECIFICATIONS | HAN5015

Wingspan Fuselage Length Wing Area Weight Range Engine/Motor

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