RC Sport Flyer Mar 2013 (Vol 18-03) by RC Flyer News

New Albatros 2.4 Makes Thermal Searching Fun Again pg 66 World’s Most In-Depth RC Aircraft Magazine

Learn

Mystique LMR Glider Powers UP for Super Soaring

• Scale Sailplane Elevator Control • Doing Routine Maintenance • Applying Decals Properly • Servo Lead Making • Kit Building

Super Stearman ARF Makes You a Park Flyer Pilot march 2013

USA & Canada $6.49

rc-sf.com

DEPARTMENTS

BUILD

how to

10 12 80 81

leading edge Hot Products advertiser index

Elevator Control Get control of your model by making its elevator linkages tight and positive. By Wil Byers

Keep it safe Discover why good maintenance will save you time and money. By Jerry Smith

Mystery airplane

pg 72

We show you how the new E-flite Mystique sailplane is built as an LMR super soarer.

pg 44

This little WWII warbird is one that anyone can fly in a park near their home or office. BUILD

SpaceWalker II Wing Part I Learn how to build a wing the way one of the masters in modeling does. By Jeff Troy

Tips & Tricks for Applying Decals See how easy it is to use decals to dress up your scale model airplane. By Rob Caso RC SPORT FLYER â€” march 2013

making leads We teach you how easy it is to make custom servo extensions and leads. By Jerry Smith

march 2013

reviews

FlyZone Acro-Wot This transmitter-ready airplane will get you in the air in absolutely no time. By Dan Deckert

E-flite Zero Here is a WWII legend of aviation that anyone can fly in their local park. By Jerry Smith

electrifly stearman Climb in the cockpit of this little park flyer for truly fun biplane aerobatics flying. By Gene Cope

pg 60 56

pg 50

E-flite Mystique Power up to soaring altitude in seconds when you push the throttle up on this one. By Wil Byers

Blade Red Bull Heli Take a break from your work and fly the Red Bull BO-105 CB helicopter in your office. By Anthony Richards Hangar 9 P-47D This famous WWII â€œJugâ€? is now available as an ARF you can build as your next scale project. By Steve Rojecki

Esprit Model Albatros Glide into the ALES competition and fun flying with this new LMR glider from Esprit Model. By Wil Byers

pg 66

RC-SF.COM

Aerobeez 50CC Slick 540 3D ARF

Aeroworks 30CC Freestyle Extra 260 QB-L

Aerobeez 365 Cloverleaf Drive, Suite C Baldwin Park, CA 91706 Phone: 877-813-5337 aerobeez.com

AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net

esigned with the demanding 3D pilot in mind, the Aeroworks 30-cc Freestyle Extra 260 QB-L (Quick Build-Light Series) features many exciting and revolutionary concepts that are sure to make it the hit of your hangar. The 30-cc Freestyle Extra 260 QB-L is the second airplane in our new QB-L Series and is sure to impress with its lightweight build quality, impressive airframe strength and longevity. All accessories are designed to be rigid and strong while providing the lightest weight possible for an airplane this size. Ball links have been provided for the smoothest in control surface movement while still allowing for 50+ degrees of surface deflection on the ailerons and rudder with over 55 degrees of deflection

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

his beautiful, 30% Slick 540 is one of the newest and best flying machines in our inventory. The Slick 540 is modeled after the modified version of the Slick 360, which uses a bigger engine. The 30% Slick 540 is designed to conquer the most difficult 3D maneuvers while keeping precision in check. It is very responsive and corresponds very well under the pilot’s input. The checkerboard pattern on the bottom aids in differentiating the orientation of the plane, making it suitable for either a sunny or overcast day. The look is very unique, and performance is unmatched in its class. With a 50-cc engine this plane will fly like a monster.

on the elevator! Engine mounting templates have been provided for the DLE 30, making installation simple even for the first-time gas pilot. The airframe itself features a large wing to provide an incredibly low wing loading, perfect for stable 3D flight. The new wing design also features both inboard and outboard Side Force Generators (SFGs); these are premounted and can be removed in seconds if desired. Along with the new wing design are the air-foiled tail surfaces that provide great control authority even at low speeds. • Strong, lightweight construction • Removable two-piece stabs and wings • Carbon landing gear, wing/stab tubes and double-truss non-flex control horns • Complete high-quality SAE hardware package • Premounted canopy with quick release latch • Professionally covered in UltraCote®, with extra

Specifications Wingspan

87 in.

Wing Area

1426 in.2

Length

83 in.

Weight

15–17 lb

Engine

50- to 60-cc gas

Price

$519.00

• Two-piece removable wings and stabilizers for easy transit • Fully symmetrical tail wing airfoil • Ball linkage control system • Carbon fiber wing tubes • Carbon fiber landing gear • Cowl has cowl ring built in to conceal the screws for a more elegant appearance • All hardware included • Built-in canister tunnel

Specifications Assembly Time

6–8 hours

Wingspan

79 in.

Wing Area

1175 in.2

Length

69 in.

Weight

10.5–11 lb

Engine

30- to 35-cc gas

Radio

4 channels

Price

$499.95

covering for small repairs • Pin-style hinges preglued from factory • Large control surfaces double beveled for maximum throw • Premounted fiberglass cowl and wheel pants • Custom throw deflectors • Custom decal set • C.G. Buddy for quick and accurate balancing

HOT PRODUCTS

Hangar 9 Horizon Hobby Messerschmitt Bc 4105 Fieldstone Road 109F-2 60 ARF Champaign, IL 61822

Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

he Hangar 9® Messerschmitt Bf 109F-2 60 plane brings the nimble WWII weapon of the German Eastern front to a .60–size warbird that’s as comfortable to fly as a sport model. Its wing incorporates two Selig airfoils designed for use in RC model warbirds, as well as just the right amount of washout so that you can groove at high speeds yet still settle in for graceful landings. Its all-wood structure features construction methods that allow complex curved surfaces to be fully sheeted, which makes the airframe not only as light as possible but also exceptionally complements the accurate scale outline. Other scale details include printed UltraCote® film covering with authentic color and markings, operational scale four-section flaps and the option to add E-flite® electric retracts that raise the warbird

Parkzone VisionAire BNF

Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

he ParkZone® VisionAire™ park flyer is specifically designed for sport pilots by 3D pioneer Quique Somenzini. Its wings are constructed of hollow Z-Foam™ material that has been reinforced with carbon fiber to create structures that are stiffer and lighter than solid foam. This rigid, lightweight airframe is paired with a powerful 10-size, 1250-Kv brushless motor that delivers the vertical performance you need for an

experience to ace level. Whether you’re a sport modeler or a die-hard warbird critic, the Hangar 9 Messerschmitt Bf 109F-2 60 is the fighter experience you’ve been waiting for. • Accurate scale outline and all-wood construction • Authentic “Black 8” JG 54 paint scheme • Durable UltraCote® covering custom printed with a flat finish, authentic camouflage and panel lines • Airfoil-shaped tail surfaces • Authentic four-section flap system allows a greater range of speed and maneuverability • Engine exhaust details easily attach to the onepiece, painted fiberglass cowl • Fixed-wire landing gear and scale wheels • Power option for electric power • Optional E-flite® 81-degree electric retract system

exhilarating 3D flying experience. What makes the VisionAire model such a great 3D plane for sport pilots is the advanced AS3X® (Artificial Stabilization—3-aXis) System built into its AR635 receiver. The AS3X System works behind the scenes to counter the effects of wind and turbulence, using three-axis sensing and flight control software tuned by Quique Somenzini. If you’ve never flown 3D before, this enhanced stability will give you the confidence you need to try high alpha maneuvers like harriers, hovers, torque rolls and more. You can adjust the amount of stability the AS3X System provides or turn it off completely, but even 3D pros will find flying with it on feels completely natural. There are no delays in control response or limits on the control throws. You’ll simply feel like you’re flying an expertly tuned model that goes right where you point it. • Clear belly window for monitoring AS3X System status • Leading-edge vortex generators • Double-beveled hinges for large control surface throws • Durable wire landing gear

Specifications Wingspan

64.0 in. (163 cm)

Wing Area

678.5 in.2 (43.8 dm2)

Length

59.0 in. (150 cm)

Weight

10.25–11.5 lb (4.7–5.2 kg)

Radio

5+ channels

Servos

3 standard, 4 mini

Price

$349.99 (HAN2785)

Specifications Wingspan

45.0 in. (114.3 cm)

Wing Area

539 in.2 (34.8 dm2)

Wing Loading

11.7 oz/ft.2 (35 g/dm2)

Length

42.5 in. (108.8 cm)

Weight

43.7 oz (1240 g)

Engine

10-size BL10 1250-Kv brushless outrunner

Radio

AR635 6-channel DSMX® AS3X® sport receiver

Servos

(4) 13 g digital high speed

ESC

40-amp Lite Pro Switch-Mode BEC brushless

Battery

11.1-V 3S 2200-mAh 25C LiPo

Price

$299.99 (PKZ6580)

and large wheels for flying off grass • Two-piece wing for easy transportation and repair • Sharp Mirco Pecorari signature trim scheme • Includes 2- to 3-cell DC variable rate charger • Requires a full-range 4+ channel DSM2®/ DSMX aircraft transmitter, sold separately RC-SF.COM

By Jeff Troy

Sig Mfg. Co. Spacewalker II Wing, Part 1 Get Started with Building Wings—It’s Easy

2 Many of the sticks and sheets in the Spacewalker II kit are similar in size but not exactly the same. Use a good ruler, at least 40 in. long, to measure and pick the sticks and sheets that are needed to construct the model’s 84-in. wing.

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Sand the backs of the die-cut balsa and Lite-Ply sheets to help the parts break free more cleanly and easily. I keep a shop-vac within easy reach to keep my bench neat and tidy while I work.

Sig Mfg. Co. Spacewalker II Wing, Part 1

4 If any tabs or bits break off the die-cut parts as you free them from their sheets, a dot of gap-filling CA and a shot of accelerator are all you need to reattach them.

Sometimes die-cut rib notches are not quite true. If that’s the case, clean them up with a #11 hobby blade in a #1 knife handle.

5 Using no adhesive, trial-fit the appropriate spars into the rib notches to check each one for an accurate fit.

he Spacewalker II is a quarterscale model of the full-scale airplane flown by the former owners of Sig Manufacturing Company in Montezuma, Iowa. This model spans 84 in. and is intended for two- or four-stroke glow power. My Spacewalker II will later be modified to accept electric power. Framing the tail feathers was shown in the September 2011 issue of RC Sport Flyer, then the model was placed in the line while I caught up with several sets of wings and fuselages for some of the other aircraft in this series. Preparation for constructing the Spacewalker wing begins now. Several steps are outlined in the manual before the spars are laid down and the wing panels are actually built over them. These steps Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Final cleaning of the notches can be done with a 1/4-in. tapered square file. This tool is the right pick for cleaning notches in ribs, formers and other airframe components.

are the subassemblies, consisting of adding the spar doublers, two rib #1 doublers and four rib # 3 doublers. Before tackling these subassemblies, however, I have a few suggestions that might get you better prepared for constructing this big, beautiful wing. The Spacewalker II kit is an engineering accomplishment, only exceeded by the thoroughness of its instruction manual. The first thing you’ll want to do is separate the wing parts from those needed for the rest of the model. As you leaf through the manual section that addresses wing construction, you’ll appreciate how every spruce and balsa stick, as well as every plain sheet of balsa is called out for its placement into the airplane and its size. A 40- to 48-in. metal straightedge is a necessity to

correctly identify each piece and prevent confusing it with other similarly sized but not exactly sized pieces in the kit. I found a nice 40-in. metal ruler at a local Harbor Freight store, and the price made the tool irresistible. When the sticks and plain sheets have been identified and separated, start going through the die-cut LitePly and balsa sheets in the kit. The W-1, W-2 and W-3 ribs are all cut into balsa sheets. The W-1a, W-3a doublers and WTIP ribs are in two Lite-Ply sheets. The two dihedral braces are also provided in a lasercut plywood sheet. The die-cutting in the Spacewalker II kit is top notch, but if you haven’t followed my earlier installments, you’ll appreciate knowing that the parts will come out RC-SF.COM

By Rob Caso

Decals Gloss spray or Future® floor polish should be applied to a matte surface for WT decals. This will eliminate “silvering.” After application, an overspray of flat clear will blend them in with the surface.

These are the setting solutions that I use for WT decals. You’ll find they will make your job of applying decals much easier, so make sure you have them.

hile I currently paint most of the markings and other nomenclature on my scale models, decals still have their place. Certainly, not every scale effort is worthy of painted markings, but I want even my less-than-museumquality models to look the part. Some full-scale aircraft use decals or stickers, but as a general rule, most aircraft feature painted markings. As scale modelers, we all know that both civilian and military markings are generally subject to specifications outlining color, proportion and placement. Even homebuilts are subject to a certain protocol. For example, current U.S. military aircraft colors are specified by the guidelines contained in Federal Standard 595, which are comprised of official paint chips, and most developed nations have similar standards.

I will say, however, that once learned, painted markings do not take much longer to apply than good water transfer (WT) decals due to the steps that are needed with the latter to get them to look right. But I digress; there are basically three types of decals—WT, pressure sensitive (PS) and rub on transfers. The techniques for applying them differ, and each has its advantages and disadvantages. WT decals are my favorite (next to paint) since they are very thin and are relatively easy to apply. These are manufactured using a silkscreening process on a paper backing, and they come with a clear carrier on which the color is applied. It’s a good idea to take the time to trim away the clear carrier before applying the decal. WTs can be fragile—be careful not to score the colored surface, as

For most decal applications the tools needed are minimal, but a couple of high-qualiy, soft artists’ brushes are critical to apply them successfully every time.

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

the decal will come off its backing in pieces. If you are applying WT decals to a matte surface, you must first coat the area that will be under the decal with clear gloss, preferably sprayed on. WTs simply won’t stick well to a matte surface. Furthermore, over a matte surface, the clear carrier around the edge of the decal will show up white (called silvering) because the decal isn’t sealed to the surface of the model but rather is sitting on top of peaks on the surface. Future® floor polish, which is actually an acrylic paint, works great as the gloss coat. To apply a decal, dip it in warm water and set it on a towel. After a few minutes, the glue will have loosened and the decal may be slid off the paper backing and onto the model. Make sure the surface of the model is dampened, as this will allow

WT decals come in many variations—in the center is an entire sheet of blue field decal. Good decals will feature the proper colors and be in register.

Decals

Decal setting solutions enabled this water transfer roundel to snuggle into the panel lines. Note the slight out of register near the trailing edge.

On the fuselage side, these WT decals allow all the panel lines to show. Always cut away the clear carrier around a decal whenever possible for a neater job.

On this glossy PS decal, I have cut the clear carrier away. These look fine on shiny covering but will stand out on a matte surface.

To align separate decals, apply a strip of autobody masking tape to the model’s surface, which you can then use as a guide.

you to position the decal where you want it. I usually use a wet brush to position the transfer. Once the decal is in place, carefully squeeze all the water and air from under the decal, working from the center out with a damp cloth. I then apply a decal setting solution (Solvaset) while it is still wet. Once the solution has been applied, don’t touch the decal. Applied properly, a WT decal will conform right down to the minutest surface texture, including fabric weave, yielding a very convincing appearance. Bubbles that you missed can be pierced with a pin and then wetted in with solution. A flat (or gloss) clear coat will blend in the decal nicely and will fuel proof the finish. If you are planning to weather your model, add a bit of gray to your clear coat for a slightly faded appearance. I like pressure sensitive (PS) decals for my “let’s get it in the air” Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

scale jobs. They are quick and easy to apply, but they have their limitations, especially over compound curves and surface irregularities. They are usually thicker than WT decals and are generally much glossier. Bubbles are also an issue, and these transfers usually have an aggressive adhesive. Put a couple of drops of dish detergent in a pint of water and apply this where the PS decal is to go. This will allow you to reposition or remove the decal and also squeeze out bubbles. Let it dry overnight, and the PS decal will be on for good—it really works. Rub on transfers have a number of advantages. They are ultra thin and look like paint when properly applied. The downside is that they must be burnished off the backing and onto the surface of your model, and if you don’t get it all, only part of the transfer will remain on the model.

Additionally, forget about using these on a foam model. Rub-ons are great for replicating small graphics and maintenance nomenclature. They can, however, be more difficult to work with when it comes to larger graphics such as national insignia. So, I like to decal or paint the larger markings and use rub-ons for the small stuff. Applying them is easy. Just tape the decal to your model and then burnish the transfer onto the surface using a soft piece of rounded balsa. Rub-ons are best applied to a harder surface, such as one that has been epoxy glassed. Once the rub-on is down, you will have to protect it with a clear coat, but first test the paint that you will use—don’t use your model as an experiment. Properly applied, decals are a great way to emulate a painted insignia and will quickly bring your model to life. RC-SF.COM

By Wil Byers

Elevator Control Stop the Hysteresis with Positive Control This is an example of what the full-scale ASG-29 looks like soaring over the German landscape. You can see the 1/3-scale mode I’m building now at icare-rc.com/ asg29_6m.htm. It is a super soaring machine.

n often heard complaint at the RC airfield is that a pilot’s model will not stay in trim. Another one is that a glider doesn’t track very well. Or how about the pilot who complains that their model won’t thermal well because it doesn’t maintain its angle of attack while circling in lift? I’m certain you’ve either heard these complaints or experienced these problems. What is often the problem is that the elevator’s control system/linkage is not well built and slop free. Consequently, the model does not stay in trim during flight. You should understand that the elevator of any model has a loading on it, just as the wing does. This is why the FAI calculates wing loading based on the combination of wing area added to the horizontal

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

stabilizer area, i.e., wing loading = weight (oz) ÷ wing area (ft2). In flight the elevator loading is ever changing based on the conditions of the air. So, if the air is bumpy the elevator might be subject to a heavy loading for an instant and then be unloaded the next. This is affected by the position of the center of gravity too, but the point is that the elevator is not riding along with the airplane in a static condition. As a result, if there is slop or free play in the elevator’s control system the model will experience hysteresis—a lagging effect. For pilots this means that they are almost forced to fly from behind the airplane or be lagging in control. Not surprisingly then they will have a difficult time maintaining a smooth and steady flight with their model.

Quite simply, they will not be 100 percent in control of the model no matter its flight attitude. The solution to hysteresis is building/installing a control system that is tight and slop free. That means as a builder you must ensure that the control system uses a servo with excellent resolution and deadband, as well as a tight gear train. Then too the linkages and control horns must have no free play in them. The control rods must be stiff and strong so that they do not flex under load, and the servo’s control arm must not bend under stress or strain. When the control system is done right, the pilot will experience a model that does only what it is commanded to do. The aircraft’s radio control system should be one that from end to end provides positive control.

Elevator Control You will cut a small slot in the elevator and then glue a fiberglass control horn into the slot with finishing resin epoxy. Be sure to use tape to hold it in place.

You should use blue masking tape around the slot in the elevator to keep the epoxy from oozing out and getting on the elevator. Remove the excess resin as it stiffens but before it is hard.

This is what the fiberglass control horn looks like once the expoxy has cured completely and the blue painterâ€™s tape has been removed. It leaves a clean installation that is strong! When you make a pushrod to drive the elevator, use a carbon fiber rod because it is extremely stiff and strong. Use a Dremel tool to cut the rod to avoid splintering the carbon.

I use a DuBro 2x56 threaded clevis for the elevator-tocontrol horn connection as a way to provide adjustment. The threaded rod gets glued into the carbon fiber pushrod with epoxy resin. Finishing resin is the adhesive of choice for the bond between the rod and carbon tube because it is very strong and will give you lots of working time to make adjustments.

This is the connection between the DuBro clevis and the fiberglass control horn that is glued into the elevator. The threaded clevis lets you make elevator trim adjustments as needed.

Youâ€™ll make the same kind of connection at the servo end of the pushrod, but instead of a threaded clevis, use a solder-type clevis. This will stop the rod from getting out of adjustment ...

The system Iâ€™ve fabricated for my 1/3-scale ASG-29 sailplane does just that. It is strong yet lightweight. Importantly, it is slop free. Only one end of the control rod is adjustable, so it will not fall out of

7 Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

8 trim in flight because of vibration or other pressure. From the photos above you can see that it is easy to build too. So, build well and be a better pilot.

RC-SF.COM

BY Jerry Smith

Keep It Safe

You definitely want to check all the control settings on your transmitter before you take your model to the airfield.

Maintain it Like You Own It!

hether you fly gas-, glowor electric-powered airplanes, it pays to perform good routine maintenance on your aircraft. Remember, accidents happen, and they are often caused by things you had not anticipated. Also, poor maintenance can and will compromise your airplane’s flight performance and safety. Just because it flew well previously doesn’t mean it will fly that way now and in the future. If you want to keep your aircraft flying well and safely, you must be vigilant against hardware and radio control problems. I have been flying RC for years. My models have had many maintenance issues that kept them out of the air. The problems are often simple things that were discovered during a preflight inspection. They include things like a screw vibrating out of a fastener or servo mount—when I didn’t have a replacement in my flight box at the airfield. This is why some pilots carry a complete workshop with them to the RC airfield. It will include all the tools and hardware necessary to make on-site repairs.

Interestingly, they will often have a duplicate set in their workshop. That way they can easily make repairs at home or at the field with the same tools and parts in either place. It is not a bad idea, but most of us don’t

want to make that kind of financial investment. However, there are some simple things you can do to make sure your models are airworthy. These should become habitual. Then you won’t give them a second thought, and necessary repairs and maintenance won’t catch you off guard. Furthermore, they won’t result in accidents that require expensive repairs or worse for your model. Here is how I ready my airplanes for flight. Before I leave for the airfield, I give them a good preflight inspection in the workshop. In other words, you should preflight your airplane like you would if it were a full-scale aircraft. To do this I turn on the radio control system and check control surface movements. I also examine the control horn fittings and servo arms for tightness. I make certain the battery for the transmitter is charged, as well as Check all the control linkages and screws on struts and elsewhere to make certain they are secure against coming loose.

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Keep It Safe You’ll want to check your model’s controls from spinner to tail wheel to be sure nothing will come apart in flight.

the packs in the airplane. You’ll also want to check the propeller bolts for tightness, especially if the prop is wooden. On large-scale airplanes the bolts must be tightened with a torque wrench to avoid over-tightening, which can cause the bolts to snap under load. You’ll want to check for loose covering too, and for graphics that might tear free of the covering material. Make certain you are loading the proper fuel too—using the wrong fuel mix (oil/gas) can cost you an engine or at least rob it of performance. What you will find after doing this a couple of times is that a good preflight inspection does not take long, and it will give you peace of mind when flying your airplanes. If you are forgetful or your airplane is a complicated machine, I suggest you make a checklist. Then use it—just like the full-scale airplane pilots do. Most RC pilots have more than one airplane. It isn’t unusual that they will also have a favorite. As a result, one or more of their airplanes will not get flown much, depending on their favorite flyer at the time. Sometimes these neglected aircraft

will sit for months without being flown or maintained. If this is the case with any of your models, especially a gas- or glow-powered model, the first thing you should inspect and maintain is the fuel system. You must check to see if there is fuel in the tank, which may have gotten gummy. Also if your model’s fuel tank is fitted with Tygon® gas tubing for its pickup line, instead of black neoprene, you’ll want to

check to see if it has hardened and subsequently fallen off. Another thing to examine is the condition of the engine’s carburetor. I recommend you check the carburetor’s filter screen to see if it is dirty, or if the fuel has hardened and formed a film over it during the months your model has been in storage. Of course, if you are flying electric-powered airplanes you don’t

Double-check that servo arms, pushrods and control horns are both tight and secure in their control surfaces.

Get a portable battery charger that you can put in your flight box or tool kit and carry to the airfield to top off packs.

Make sure that propeller bolts are tight and secure. A loose propeller can damage the propeller and the engine or worse.

You do not want to over tighten propeller bolts. Check that they match the manufacturer’s specifications.

RC-SF.COM

BY Jerry Smith

Custom-Made Leads Make Extensions that Fit Your Model Perfectly

ost of the major brands of servos come with a lead that is about 12 in. long. As a result, when you install a radio control system in an airplane it is often necessary to use servo lead extensions between the servo’s pigtail and the airplane’s receiver.

Sometimes servo leads just aren’t the right length, or they don’t fit the installation the way you want. Servo extensions are available in various, mostly even lengths—6-, 9-, 12-, 24-, 36- and 48-in. leads. Stock servo lead extensions may not fit your model exactly. They either just

barely reach or are too long. If the extension is too long it can make for a messy control system installation, with extra wire hanging inside the model’s fuselage or wings. The answer to this problem is making a set of custom servo extensions. Customized extensions

You can purchase connector kits with gold-plated pins from Maxx Products. They are quite inexpensive, and the gold-plated pins have the lowest electrical resistance. If you buy the JR type they will also fit Hitec and Airtonics radios. It is good to have some on hand for future repairs or a new project, so buy a few packs at once. You will save on shipping costs that way too.

Begin by stripping the end of the wires about 1/8 in. My wire strippers have a gauge allowing me to set it for a particular wire size. Some might not have this feature and you will have to set them manually. If you get that kind, be careful not to set it too small and cut the wire strands. Once the wires are stripped, twist the strands in a rope-like fashion with your fingers.

Here are the connectors as you receive them out of the package. On the right side are the female connectors—not the pins. The connector pins are long, and a shell is placed over the basic female connector. On the left side are the male connectors with short pins. Be sure the pins are gold plated; some aren’t.

The connector pins come on a rack. Bending them back and forth on the sprue will break them free of it. Do not try to cut them loose. Also break off only what you need during your build because they are small and easily lost if dropped on the carpet. Study them well before you start so you understand how they fit the wire.

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Custom-Made Leads

Twist the bare wire leads to make certain the strands are tight. Lay the wire in the pin with the insulation up against the second set of tabs. Hold it in place with your finger on a flat surface; bend the first set of tabs slightly over the insulation with needle nose pliers. This starts the tab bending in the right direction and holds the pin in place on the wire for crimping. An important step is to make sure the bare wire is in-line and under the second set of tabs so that there is good mechanical bond between wire and pin.

With the wire number sizes stamped on the crimper facing you, lay the pin in the back set of jaws of the crimper with the wire and insulation clamping tabs face down. Leave about 1/16 in. of the pin sticking outside the jaws. Now crimp it tight. Remove the pin and slide that extra 1/16 in. back into the jaws to further crimp the tabs onto the insulation, which will help prevent having the wire pulled free of the pin if you inadvertantly pull on the wire during plugging or unplugging.

When the wire is properly crimped to the pin it looks like this. Note how the insulation is clamped and the bare wires and strands are completely enclosed in the pin’s crimping tabs. Additional forming can be done with needle nose pliers if necessary. Inspect it with a loupe or your magnifier to make certain the wire has been properly crimped. Importantly, you must create a good electrical connection between wire and pin.

With the connector properly oriented, black locking tabs up and large holes to the left, insert the signal wire pin, first hole on top, with the wire locking tabs facing up. Insert it until the black locking tab on the connector is flush. If the pin is not inserted all the way, the tab will stick up slightly and the pin will not lock in place. The signal wire goes in first, followed by the red wire and then the brown wire for proper polarity.

will allow leads to fit your model exactly. They are not hard to make either. You simply need the proper tools, wire and custom connectors, which are sold by a few hobby suppliers—I bought mine from Maxx Products. You might also need to make custom connectors for your servo’s extensions in case you have a damaged connector on a servo lead. In such a situation you can replace the connector using the tools you’ve acquired to make custom extensions Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

and the knowledge you’ve absorbed from this how-to article.

Get Started

You will need to buy insulated servo wire, a set of wire strippers, the connector parts and pins (female and male), a crimping tool and a pair of side cutters. The wire size you choose is important. Most of the servo wire used in model airplane control systems is 22-gauge, 65-strand, 3-conductor ribbon or twisted wire.

It is used for standard-size and larger servos. If your model is small, such as a park flyer or discus-launched glider, you’ll want smaller-gauge wire (24 or 26 gauge). It is important to use stranded wire because it is flexible and will not break. Do not use singlestrand wire for the wire runs in any model airplane! You can buy wire from many sources. I recommend buying from maxxprod.com. Maxx Products supplies everything you need to make custom leads. You can buy good wire RC-SF.COM

BY Jerry Smith

A6M5 Zero 300 BNF Basic Maneuver Onto Your Opponentâ€™s Six With This Gorgeous Fighter

hen it first entered fighter combat service with the Imperial Japanese Navy Air Service (IJNAS) in 1940, the Mitsubishi A6M Zero had no equal. It was very fast and maneuverable and had an exceptional range. These traits earned it a reputation as a formidable fighter. However, by early 1943 the Zero was beginning to lose air superiority to faster and betterarmed American fighters that

The lines of this little warbird are simply without comparison. It even comes with a pilot built into the cockpit, so it presents very much like the full-scale aircraft would have during some of the battles of WWII.

were coming into service. United States Navy (USN) F6F Hellcats and Army Air Force (USAAF) P-38 Lightnings began to turn the tide of the air war over the Pacific. To keep the balance in their favor, Mitsubishi modified their existing A6M3 model to create the A6M5. The A6M5 featured heavier gauge wing skins for faster dive speeds, shorter, non-folding, rounded wing tips to improve roll rate and individual exhaust stacks that gave its engine a modest boost in performance. With a top speed of 351 mph at an altitude of 19,600 ft and up to 410 mph in a dive, the A6M5 was the most efficient 44

RC SPORT FLYER â€” march 2013

E-Flite A6M5 Zero 300 BNF Basic

This is what you can expect to find in the kit. The BNF Zero requires only a battery and a transmitter to ready it for flight. It arrived in perfect condition because it was well packaged.

There is plenty of detail on the bottom of the wing. Aileron torque arms are placed in tubing as a bearing. The tubing is then glued to the wing for smooth operation.

model of the Zero produced. Despite the improvements, the Zero only managed to slightly level the competition, out-performing the enemy only with a skilled pilot at its controls. It remained in production until the warâ€™s end in 1945, totaling over 11,000 aircraft produced. Today, very few authentic A6M Zeros remain in the world, partly due to their use as kamikaze aircraft.

The Kit

The Horizon E-flite A6M5 Zero 300 Bind-N-Fly (BNF) airplane is made for foamy warbird enthusiasts. The Zero 300 comes out of its kit Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

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BY Gene Cope

Super Stearman ARF A Stearman Park Flyer With Get Up And Go

ne of the easiest aircraft in history to recognize is the Boeing Model 75 Stearman biplane. First flown in 1934, the Stearman has become a legend in aviation. It was introduced as a trainer for the U.S. Army Air Corps (USAAC), U.S. Navy (USN) and Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF) during the 1930s and 1940s for World War II. Following the end of the war, thousands of Stearmans found new homes with civilian buyers, with many being used successfully as crop dusters.

Youâ€™ll want to pull the power back when the model is a few feet above the ground. Then you can just fly it onto the deck doing nice wheel landings.

RC SPORT FLYER â€” march 2013

Pilots then began installing larger Pratt & Whitney R-985 450-hp air-cooled radial engines in them, replacing the stock Continental R-670 220-hp engines. They also fitted them with a constant speed propeller for increased climb performance and for added takeoff weight. The resulting aircraft would be called the Super Stearman. When air show pilots caught wind of the modifications, they began converting their stock Stearmans to the 450-hp engines. Supers incorporated additional ailerons on

the top wings and slaved them to the pair on the bottom, which gave the airplanes increased roll rates. With the new upgrades, pilots could spend more time performing aerobatics at the controls of a Super Stearman during an air show routine. The stock Stearmans were forced to spend additional time climbing and then diving their aircraft for the airspeed to perform the same stunts as the Supers. Some, if not most, Super Stearman were fitted with fuel and oil systems that supported inverted flight as well. So it was that just as

ElectriFly Super Stearman ARF military pilots fell in love with the easy-flying PT-17, air show pilots became enamored with the Super Stearman.

Kit

The ElectriFly Super Stearman kit distributed by Great Planes comes as an almost-ready-tofly (ARF) model. You’ll get all the parts neatly packaged and protected in a sturdy cardboard box. My model came inside an outer box that protected it against any shipping damage, so it arrived in perfect condition. The biplane is covered in MonoKote high-quality covering, and mine had some wrinkles when I took it out of the box, which I was able to iron and heat gun out. Because it is an ARF, order the

These are the components that you get in your Great Planes Super Stearman ARF kit. The parts are well made and high quality.

You must buy a motor, speed controller, battery, servos, servo leads, propeller and a radio receiver to complete the Super Stearman.

I used six-minute epoxy to bond the servo mounting blocks to the back of the servo covers. Heat-shrink tubing secures the 6-in. extensions’ joints.

The aluminum landing gear comes with great-looking wheel pants. A small drop of thread lock guarantees that the axels won’t loosen in their legs.

The Super Stearman kit includes a simulated radial engine that fits inside the cowl. It adds to the scale look of this model significantly.

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BY Steve Rojecki

P-47D-40 Thunderbolt ARF This 30-cc Powered Jug is Scale And You’ll Like It!

High-speed flybys are an absolute blast with the P-47. Loaded up with the ordnance and external tank it looks like it means business. The E-Flite Power 160 motor has plenty of punch even with all the extras hung on.

he Republic Aircraft P-47 Thunderbolt, also known as the”Jug,” was one of the most prolific Allied aircraft of World War II (WWII). The prototype first flew in May of 1941. More than 15,000 Thunderbolts were built during the war and used by military forces of more than 25 countries. Compared with the better-known P-51 Mustang, which weighed a trim 12,000 lb, the P-47 was one of the largest of the WWII fighters, weighing in at 17,500 lb. The airplane was universally loved for its rugged construction and tremendous firepower. It could take The Hangar 9 P-47 in all of its glory! Bombs, external fuel tank and static fourbladed paddle propeller are attached. Hangar 9 also includes three sets of decals for customizing your P-47.

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

Hangar 9® P47D-40 Thunderbolt a lot of hits and still get the pilots back home. It was so strong, some pilots elected to crashland with the airplane rather than bail out if there was an engine failure. Throughout its production, the Thunderbolt went through several evolutions. The most The Hangar 9 P-47 was packaged well and arrived The P-47 has all the pushrods cut to the proper obvious was the without damage. All the major components are length. It’s easy to slide them into the preinstalled finished, and the final assembly requires only a few pushrod guides, add the clevis ends and hook them up transition from the evenings to ready the airplane for flight. to the control horns. “razorback” canopy to the “bubble” canopy, which happened later in the war. This drastically improved the rear visibility of the cockpit and was subsequently copied to several other fighters. The other significant improvement to the Jug was the addition of what is known as the paddle-blade propeller. Developed by Curtiss Fuselage-mounted servos drop into the pre-made The E-Flite Power 160 mounts easily in the airframe. Aircraft, this propeller servo trays. There is plenty of room for all of the Hangar 9 supplies an optional electric power system greatly improved the radio equipment, including the servos, receiver, motor box. The Castle Creation ICE controller fits switches and batteries. nicely behind the motor and allows for short lead P-47’s low-altitude climb hookup. rate. This boosted its air-to-air performance against German fighters, The big grin says it all. This was a fantastic project that culminated with the great flying including 20 kills against the German qualities of this P-47. At high speeds or slow and dirty, the P-47 is as stable as a rock. This inspires pilot confidence. jet fighter, the Me-262. Hangar 9’s P-47 is modeled to incorporate these improvements and demonstrate a battle-ready brawn that reflects the performance and prestige this aircraft delivered.

The Kit

The Hangar 9 P-47D-40 Thunderbolt 30-cc Almost-Ready-toFly (ARF) model arrived at my home in a double-boxed cardboard box. The outer box sustained the normal bumps and scratches, while the artwork box beneath was undamaged. Inside the box I found that all the airframe parts were individually wrapped in plastic and secured to the shipping box, so they arrived unscathed. All the hardware and accessories are packed in individual boxes that keep them in the proper

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BY Wil Byers

Albatros 2.4S/E ARF An LMR Machine that Makes Thermal Searching Fun Again!

imited Motor Run (LMR) soaring has gotten a huge shot in the arm from Altitude Limited Electric Soaring (ALES). While FAI F5J soaring competition never really caught on for LMR gliders and sailplanes, ALES is shaping up to be the hottest thing in soaring to come along in a very long time. Electronic control modules such as the Sky Limit by Winged Shadow Systems (wingedshadow.com) and

The nostalgic design lines of the Albatros 2.4S/E give it a striking look in the air. The transparent covering also helps with visibility.

RC SPORT FLYER â€” march 2013

Esprit Albatros 2.4S/E ARF

Your Albatros 2.4 kit will include everything you need to get the glider flying except for servos, motor, battery and so on. The jig for cutting the nose off the fuselage is extra too.

the CAM controller by Soaring Circuits (soaringcircuits.com) have given a huge boost to the ALES competition format. They have done so because they make it easy to monitor a gliderâ€™s motor runtime and/or altitude. The result is, now a competition can be flown in manon-man format where all the gliders launch at one time. The glider is

Here is what I bought from Esprit for my Albatros 2.4S/E. The MVVS gives it plenty of climbing power when combined with a Thunder Power 2700-mAh 3S LiPo battery.

limited by either its launch altitude or its motor run time. The competition is then centered around the pilot thermalling or soaring the glider for a specified duration. It is pilot and contest director friendly, and this fun, fair competition is literally taking off! The Albatros 2.4S/E is ideally suited for LMR ALES-type competition and all-out fun flying. It is

a beautiful model both on the ground and in the air. It has the classic design lines of a Bird of Time glider; this model, however, incorporates stateof-the-art construction methods, including carbon fiber, laser cutting and high-quality covering. Its built-up construction for the wing integrates a carbon spar that is strong enough to withstand both winch launches

The Albatros 2.4S/E is a good pick for getting into ALES soaring and competition. It is affordable and easy to assemble too. Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

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BY Wil Byers

Mystique 2.9-m ARF Throttle Up with this LMR Glider for Super Soaring

The E-flite Mystique is a very wellcoordinated sailplane in between ailerons and rudder, which makes it very easy to fly in thermals.

RC SPORT FLYER — march 2013

lectric-powered sailplanes and gliders are without question the origins of electric-powered airplanes. It all started back in 1969 when Bob Boucher and his brother Roland started the company AstroFlight. Their goal was to build a radio controller sailplane to use in AMA competitions. They did this with the Malibu. The future of electricpowered airplanes was changed from then on. Much has changed since 1969. Modelers pretty much take brushless motors, speed controllers and LiPo battery packs for granted. What has changed more recently is the introduction of Altitude Limited Electric Soaring (ALES). As the name implies, ALES is a new format that makes use of an innovative little circuit that monitors an airplane’s altitude or motor runtime. When a preset altitude or motor runtime is reached it shuts off the model’s motor. As a result, a new class of

E-flite Mystique 2.9-m ARF competition has been spawned, with the promise of changing glider competitions. You can learn more about ALES by pointing your web browser at alesleague.org. What the ALES class has done as well is give impetus to the creation of some new Limited Motor Run (LMR) gliders. One such glider is the new and exciting E-flite Mystique 2.9-m-wingspan, almostready-to-fly (ARF) glider. It is an electric-powered sailplane inspired by F5J-class competition and LMR events. Both these classes are extremely popular. Like most sailplanes focused on performance, the Mystique 2.9-m sailplane delivers an outstanding RC soaring experience, even if all you’re looking for is a glider to enjoy on a lazy afternoon. Its impressive wing design employes the versatile Selig S3021 airfoil that’s proven to be excellent in model applications with lightweight, openbay construction by offering good low-speed characteristics, as well as the ability to move quickly from thermal to thermal. The contour of the molded fiberglass fuselage is sleek yet provides ample room for its pushrods to run internally and still have room for a powerful LiPo motor battery.

The kit includes a well-made composite fuselage with factory-installed servo tray. The wings come covered and ready for servo installation.

The combination of Spektrum and E-flite gear will have your model ready to fly in almost no time. This is one of the easy models you’ll find to build.

The motor installation could not be easier because even the mount is factory installed. Note that I swapped two wires to reverse the motor’s rotation.

The 3S 3200-mAh battery is held in place with hookn-loop material. A remote receiver is held to the side of the fuselage with a bit of Velcro tape.

Look at how clean the servo installation is in this model. You just drop the servos into place and then screw them down—harden the screw’s holes with CA.

You’ll want to mount the receiver between the elevator and rudder pushrods. It makes for clean wire runs to all the servos.

What you Get I got the Mystique as an electric-powered glider, but you can also build it as a pure sailplane. What you get is the fuselage with

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