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Alpine Soaring
Take this Adventure with Us into Hells Canyon
Phazer
Makes You a Jet Pilot!
See Why
Plus HowTo Georgia Warbirds
WWI & II Fighters See Action at this Event february 2013
USA & Canada $6.49
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Cockpits Fun Floats Paint Propellers Helicopter Lights Like
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DEPARTMENTS
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leading edge
BUILD
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Hot Products advertiser index Mystery airplane
Dallaire Sportster fuselage part iiI Finish the fuselage of this majestic model and get more tricks for your workshop. By Jeff Troy
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Cockpits Part II Learn to fashion and finish cockpit details for true scale realism. By Rob Caso
pg 80 how to
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pg 68
Good looks, aerobatics and nostalgia—this ARF has it all!
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scale propellers Make a propeller you’ll be proud to show off in this step-by-step article. By Bob Mitchell
Super fly floats Prepare your foamy for landing in snow or water by adding these easy floats. By Rob Caso Night flight See how one creative pilot illuminates his helicopter with multicolored LEDs. By Carsten Wagner
Satisfy your need for speed with Great Planes’ delta-wing Phazer EDF. photos
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alpine soaring 2012 Find out why there’s nothing more beautiful than soaring gliders in the Wallowa Valley. By Wil Byers
event
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atlanta memorial Warbirds Rally See why warbird pilots flock to this exciting event, and why you’ll want to go next year. By Jerry Smith
RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
pg 50 Discover the fun of soaring high above Hells Canyon, OR.
February 2013 reviews
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heli-max 1sq rtf Four blades mean four times the fun for this micro-size, responsive flyer. By Wil Byers dynamite charger Charge your battery packs two at a time with this highpowered, easy-to-use beast. By Anthony Richards
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mini contender arf Take off with this electricpowered sport flyer for a breezy, nostalgic flight. By Richard Kuns
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e-flite twist 3d 480 Take flight with this colorful 3D plane for hassle-free aerobatics and fun. By Daniel Holman
phazer edf arf Pump up your adrenaline and piloting skills with this fast, sleek speed machine. By Dan Deckert
PG 34
Get in the cockpit with this build article.
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7
Aeroworks 50-cc Mustang P-51D Gunfighter
AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net
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eroworks has added the New 50-cc P-51D Mustang Gunfighter to their line of Quick Build Series aircraft. The Mustang P-51 was designed from the ground up to provide a true-to-scale model with preinstalled main retracts, retractable tail wheel and complete air system. Functional inner and outer main and tail wheel gear doors are set from the factory for scale operation. Sequencer, air valves and valve servos are also preinstalled. Scale hinging, hidden control servos, a sliding canopy and the scale cockpit finish off the highly pre-fabricated model. The large wing and flaps make it very stable and easy to fly. Sleek lines, rugged good looks and instant nostalgia are sure to make the Mustang your favorite model. • • • •
• Adjustable pushrods with centering nut • Machined aluminum engine stand offs included • Professionally covered in Ultracote™ • Extra Ultracote covering provided for small repairs • Scale lines with custom cockpit • Pre-mounted fiberglass cowl • Preinstalled and fuel-proofed engine box • Laser-cut engine mounting templates provided
Specifications Wingspan
86 in.
Wing Area
1359 in.2
Length
70 in. (rudder to cowl) 75 in. (rudder to spinner)
Weight
22–24 lb
Cowl Width
6 in.
Engine
50-cc
Radio
6-channel +
Price
$1849.95
• Custom throw meter included • 12–15 hours assembly time
Strong, lightweight construction Detailed instruction manual on CD Bomb and tank drops included Complete high-quality SAE hardware package included
Taiwan Tornado Electrical Magnetic Brake System
Fan Jets USA 51285 Bittersweet Rd, Suite G Granger, IN 46530 Phone: 877-538-3268 fanjetsusa.com
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aiwan Tornado’s electromagnetic energy control aircraft brake system is replacing and reshaping the traditional pneumatic and server remote control aircraft braking system. The innovative brake system allows easier installation and offers better distance control when landing without adding extra flying weight.
The brake system operates on an input voltage of 7.2–30 V. It can tap directly into the aircraft battery or use an external battery of 7.2–30 V. You can adjust the capacity by turning the brake controller clockwise to increase the power or counterclockwise to decrease the power. The yellow control box plugs into an auxiliary port on the receiver. The leads from the brakes in the wheels connect to the yellow control box. The tires are constructed of the same rubber that automobile tires are made of. This leads to improved traction upon landing and taxiing on the tarmac. The 45-mm aircraft braking wheel set includes:
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45-mm braking wheel (2) 35-mm braking wheel (1) Brake controller 5-mm screw for installation
Price: $59.99
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RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
HOT PRODUCTS
Aeroworks 50cc Yak 55M
AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net
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eroworks is proud to add the new 50-cc Yak 55M to their line of Quick Build Series aircraft. Designed to provide the best-looking and -performing Yak 55 to date, the new Yak 55M has been designed to outperform any other Yak on the market. The minimal mixing and aileron differential required to achieve perfect flight create the truest-flying Yak ever! The 50-cc Yak 55M is a true QB offering high-quality, lightweight construction and the fastest build time possible. • • • • • • • • • • •
• Large control surfaces double beveled for maximum throw • Pre-mounted fiberglass cowl and wheel pants • Flush fit cowling • Dummy engine baffling with alignment jig • Pre-mounted and tinted canopy • Universal engine mounting template provided • Fuel tank and hardware • Preinstalled and fuel-proofed engine box • Custom throw meter included • 10–12 hours assembly time
Specifications Wingspan
70 in.
Wing Area
1525 in.2
Length
64 in.
Weight
16.5–18 lb
Engine
50–60-cc gas
Radio
6-channel +
Price
$729.95
Canister and pipe ready Detailed instruction manual on CD Strong and light tail wheel Complete high-quality SAE hardware package included Adjustable pushrods with centering nut Machined aluminum engine stand offs included Carbon-reinforced wing spar design to increase wing strength Carbon wing and stab tubes Professionally covered in Ultracote™ Extra Ultracote covering provided for small repairs Slot-style hinges preinstalled from factory
Hitec Universal Balancing Board
Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com
Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer
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itec’s universal balancing adapter works with all Hitec X and H series of chargers and includes EH, TP, XH and HP balancing ports. It allows you to balance all major brands of lithium chemistry batteries while charging, with no need for additional adapters. Unlike other adapters that use a piece of foam, Hitec’s Universal Balancing Board features a hard, plastic case.
• Works with all Hitec X and H series of chargers • Balances all major brands of lithium chemistry batteries • Compatible with 2S–6S packs Price $15.99 Stock # 44178
RC-SF.COM
15
BY Jerry Smith
Atlanta Memorial Warbirds Rally How One Club Brings Together a Gaggle of Warbirds
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he sixth annual Atlanta Memorial Warbirds Rally, hosted by the Georgia Model Aviators (GMA) was held over the weekend of November 1–3, 2012. It was a superb weekend of flying. The Georgia Model Aviators played host to 45 pilots. They came to the event from all over the southeast, with one entrant coming in from New Jersey and another from Texas. It was a good mix of pilots. The wind was gusty on Friday, but
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RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
Saturday turned out to be absolutely perfect for flying. Rex Briant, the contest director, and his club member volunteers ran a well-organized event. They hosted a fundraiser raffle for the American Lung Cancer Association during the event with prizes provided by Meister Models, Solo Props and Horizon Hobby to name a few. As a result, a check for $1600 was given to the association. This is good stuff! What you may want to know and
possibly emulate is that the GMA is a private membership club. The president is John Singer. He presides over 260-plus members. The club now has one of the premier flying sites in the southeast. It is located in Ballground, Georgia, which is just 50 miles from Atlanta. The airfield sits on 66 acres of land. It has 22 sheltered workbenches and an 800-ft Asphalt runway that is paralleled by a Bermuda grass runway. It has all the amenities of a modern RC airfield.
Atlanta Memorial Warbirds Rally
Gary Mills came all the way from Texas to fly his modified Meister Scale Corsair. It was powered by a five-cylinder Moki radial.
Forest Morris of South Carolina flew his Storch, which was built by Slick Larsen. It’s a G-38 scale model and weighs about 20 lb.
Gary’s F4U Corsair came loaded for war with rockets and bombs. The Moki engine gave it a true radial engine sound in the air too!
Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer
RC-SF.COM
21
By Jeff Troy
Dallaire Sportster Fuselage, Part III It’s Easy. It’s Fun. It’s Rewarding. It’s Yours!
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he Dallaire Sportster is a 108-in. old-timer design. This majestic model is kitted by Shive Specialties and sold exclusively through Penn Valley Hobby Center in Lansdale, Pennsylvania (pennvalleyhobbycenter.com). Framing the basic fuselage box and upper-rear section were shown in the December 2012 issue of RC Sport Flyer, and the lower section, deck sheeting, cowl blocks and soldering the landing gear were shown in the January 2013 issue. Construction of the fuselage concludes now. Many modelers wait until an airframe is completely constructed and covered before turning their attention to the fuel tank and radio gear, but I find these items far more convenient to install correctly before the model has been covered. It’s only logical that locating servo rails, running pushrod sleeves, fitting the fuel tank and arranging the control linkages will be easier to do when there is no skin on the model to impede your access to its innards. The Dallaire is a large model with gobs of wing area. It’s relatively
light and flies slowly, so powerhouse servos aren’t a necessity. I chose a trio of ST47BB servos from JR® SPORT. These are standard-size, ball-bearing servos with 47 oz-in. of torque and more than enough transit speed for an extremely lazy model that responds somewhat slowly to control inputs. My receiver choice is the full-range Spektrum® AR500,
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which is also a slight overkill for this basic, three-channel model. No servo extensions were needed, and I rounded out my radio gear with a Spektrum 4.8-V NiCd flat-pack and a JR Chargeswitch (JRPA004). Three servos in a side-by-side configuration behind the fuel tank bay seemed like a a good choice for the Dallaire. The Fox Falcon
2 Use a servo to gauge the distance between the servo rails. Don’t install them too tightly together. You’ll want to be able to install and remove the servos without crushing, kinking or otherwise damaging the servo wires.
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RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
After the rails are installed, give them added support with lengths of triangle strip. Install the strips with quick-setting epoxy that gives you enough working time but doesn’t take too long to set.
Dallaire Sportster Fuselage, Part III
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4 You can’t beat Ernst Pushrod Exits for a neat appearance when using Sullivan Gold-N-Rod pushrod guide tubes. These Ernst #105 Large (blue rod) parts are available at storefront shops and from Internet suppliers.
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A cutting template is provided on the header card of the Ernst exits, which you’ll find handy. Use the template to prepare two 1/8-in. balsa sheets for the tail section of the fuselage.
6 The side sheets are shown installed, with the recesses cut for the exit guides. Note that the sheet shown here has not yet been sanded flush with the fuselage’s frame.
.60’s carburetor arm is on the right-hand side of the engine, so the throttle servo went on the right side of the fuselage. I like a crossed-swords approach to rudder and elevator pushrods. The rudder horn is mounted on the left side of this model and the elevator horn is on the right, so I mounted the rudder servo in the center and the elevator servo on the left side of the arrangement. A length of 1/8 x 1/2-in. spruce is provided to make the servo rails, so measure and cut the two rails to the correct length to fit between the cabin sides. Determine where the servos will be mounted, then use gapfilling CA to install the forward rail. Hold the rear rail in the approximate position and slip one servo in Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer
This image shows how the Ernst exit carries the blue Sullivan guide tube and fits into the balsa side sheeting. Again, the sheeting has not yet been sanded flush with the fuselage’s frame.
between the rails, then adjust the rear rail for a good fit. Good doesn’t mean tight. It means that the rails must be far enough apart to allow installation and removal of the servos without smashing the connecting wires, and that the holes for the mounting screws will hit both rails and not air. When you have the rear rail located, mark its position, remove the servo and install the rail with gap-filling CA. Finish the rail installation by cutting and fitting two pieces of triangle stock to reinforce the rail-to-cabin joints, and this time, install the triangles with five- or sixminute epoxy. I chose a pair of 48-in., semiflexible Gold-N-Rods® (#506) from Sullivan Products. These are the ones with the yellow pushrods and blue
guide tubes. They come with 2-56 threaded studs and two Gold-NClevises® with locking clips. I like clean exits, so I also chose a pair of Ernst Pushrod Exits for Sullivan Gold-N-Rod (#105). These attractive, hooded-nylon guides trap the Sullivan guide tubes at the rear of the fuselage—and you won’t have to dress an ugly balsa-to-nylon glue joint that can be difficult to sand and cover neatly. The Ernst exits come with a cutting template printed on the header card. Use this template to cut the 1/8-in. balsa sheeting you will install on both sides at the tail of the fuselage. Glue the side pieces in with gap-filling CA, then run the blue guide tubes into the fuselage from the rear with the Ernst exits RC-SF.COM
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BY Rob Caso
Cockpits Part II
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2 The Chopper from NW Short Line is great for making accurate, repetitive cuts, such as on this plastic rod.
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ast month, I discussed the importance of having a good cockpit in a scale model, forming a plan by laying out a cockpit’s details and building a removable tub on which all the details are to be hung. This month, I am going to address how to make the needed cockpit details. I do a lot of design work in CAD and subsequently cut parts on my laser cutter. I am fully aware that not everyone has a laser; however, there is a number of good CAD programs that are either inexpensive (under $100) or free. While CAD helps immensely with the layout work, much of the skill needed for building
Some of my most useful tools include a small vise, plastic nippers, fine drills and hole punches.
scale cockpits lies in the mastery of hand tools and materials.
Materials
Many of the details in my cockpits are faced with .010- or .015-in. ABS sheet plastic. Instrument panels, consoles, boxes, floors and raised sections on these are done in plastic sheets over a balsa or plywood core. The reason for using plastic is that it’s 90% finished when you stick it on, it’s easy to work with and it accepts paint nicely. Plastic shapes are another useful item. Round and box tube and round and box solid rod along with hexshaped rod, all in various sizes and
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lengths, will help solve a number of cockpit issues. I also use brass and aluminum along with a lot of plywood in various thicknesses and types. My adhesives of choice are usually cyanoacrylate (CA), flexible white glue, liquid plastic cement and epoxy. You must keep in mind the level of vibration to which the details will be subject—unsupported plastic can fatigue and break under prolonged vibration. Other, off-the-beaten path materials always sneak their way into my models. For example, convincing oxygen mask hoses can be made with lengths of nylon screws. Buy the black ones.
4 My fillers of choice are shown. Also consider using medium cyanoacrylate glue and some of the new plastic model acrylic fillers, which work well.
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RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
Face a balsa box core by gluing it to a plastic sheet and then trimming it. Do not do it the other way around. You’ll get a much better fit to the box by facing the box.
Cockpits Part II
Making the Stuff
It’s always easier to buy off-theshelf details when you can, especially when it comes to instrumentation. In the larger scales, there is a number of excellent details available such as switches, pilots, seats, screws, harnesses and even full cockpits. I recommend this approach when it is appropriate for the model because it makes the job easier. I recently bought a full cockpit for an Fw190 that I am planning. Will I simply assemble it and stick it in the model? Of course not. I can make it better, but I’ll have a good head start by using it.
Instrument Panel
Using the instrument panel layout that was made in Part I of my build, you’ll want to affix the paper
template with temporary artist’s adhesive to the base material being used—usually 1/32- or 1/16-in. hard balsa or ply. Cleanly cut the holes with a sharpened steel or brass tube, a Forstner bit or drill point bits. If commercial gauges are being used, cut the panel close and then ream the holes. Once the holes have been cut in the base material, scuff down some .010-in. plastic sheet—both sides—with a fine auto-body-type scuff pad and then glue it with CA to the ply panel. The plastic does not initially have to be cut to match the panel. Rather, simply glue on a rectangular section, recut the holes and then trim, sand and paint the panel the appropriate color. Note that commercially available gauges are often too large in diameter to fit the panel. This will
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force other equipment off the panel or cause things to become crowded. So, keep in mind that it’s the busy, “just looks right” effect that you’re after, not something fit for the Smithsonian, so work around this by deleting minor details. If you must make a gauge, it can be drawn in CAD or illustration software or bought with the bezel made from cut and reamed plastic or brass tube. I’ve even made gauges from soldered copper wire formed around a steel rod. You can cut the glass for the gauge from .010-in. clear plastic by using a sharpened tube, or just use a blob of epoxy. The mounting surround can be made by cutting a hole in .010-in. plastic and then, using a square template, plotting and cutting the rest. Sand the edges round.
6 For edging, use a contiguous piece of plastic strip—be sure to put the seam on the bottom.
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Pre-painted plastic rods and hex material for screws and buttons eliminate tedious painting later.
8 Frequent test fits of the pilot are critical in determining if things look right in your model’s cockpit. Keep asking yourself, “Is everything in the right proportion?” Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer
Positioning the seat vertically is also important. Use balsa blocks or plywood for this purpose. Then later you’ll hide these blocks and ply with scale framework. RC-SF.COM
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BY Bob Mitchell
Scale Propellers They’re Easy to Do and They Finish Your Airplane
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hen looking at an airplane most people notice the propeller at first glance. Our airplanes ostensibly need to fly properly, so their propellers must be functional rather than pretty. Scale airplanes, and especially contest entries, need to be prototypically accurate to be believable and to thereby win competitions. This is usually at the expense of functionality though. As a result, most of the best scale airplane builders have two sets of propellers for their competition airplanes: one for flight and one for show.
It’s Easy
Making a detailed scale model of a real propeller is easy and fun. And, if you care about accurate modeling for whatever reason, it’s an essential part of the aircraft project. Modelers even more mature than I proudly reminisce about hand-carving propellers from wood blocks—I imagine that challenge has its own rewards. These days, a visit to the hobby shop or Internet yields abundant sources for pre-cast and ready-to-run alternatives to whittling. Contemporary resins and molds allow manufacturers to produce specific sizes and shapes in small batches, so you can be confident there’s a correct propeller for your
To detail your propeller, you’ll need appropriate colors, clear finish, masking tapes, decal setting solution, decals and some reference material.
scale masterpiece. I used one of these resin kits to add the final touch to my friend’s 102-in.-wingspan Bud Nosen P-47 kit-built warbird. This beautiful aircraft sports a 145-cc in-line twin-cylinder engine, and it has flown beautifully at Warbirds Over Delaware and Joe Nall. It won third place in its category at a recent WRAM show and is resplendent in Flite-Metal. It would be heresy to use anything but a “perfect” propeller. This project is not at all difficult and won’t require a lot of materials or tools. The first photo shows everything you’ll need, in addition to some sandpaper. You’ll need some reference material if you don’t have scale documentation data. Gather
After preparing the resin parts of the propellers you will spray the first colors. In the case of this propeller I did the silver hub and yellow blade tips. You must allow the paint to dry thoroughly.
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RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
paint in the necessary colors, lowtack masking tape, decals, decalsetting solution and clear finish—in my case, Krylon® matte finish spray. Testor’s Dullcote would be equally appropriate. My resin blades and hub needed some sanding preparatory work, namely removing any “flash” or molding excess and any seams resulting from the casting process. Test the blades to see that they fit properly in the hub, and carve or sand until they do. There is a wide range of casting resins, and some use a mold-release compound, which is death to paint adhesion. I always assume they’re present, so I thoroughly clean parts with
I’ve painted one blade black (yellow tip is masked) and am ready to apply red to the hub tip. I use two tape types—blue low-tack painter’s tape and Scotch #471 masking tape that I buy at an auto parts supplier.
Scale Propellers
You must carefully apply the decals to a blade that has its paint well cured. You will then fix the decal to the propeller by applying a mist of clear top-coat spray such as is sold by Krylon.
detergent, warm water and an old toothbrush. Avoid handling the dry, clean parts, as skin oils can create problems later in the painting process. And, most importantly, always protect your lungs when spraying. I’m a big fan of Tamiya® spray paints, so I chose their TS-17 Gloss Aluminum for the hub and TS-47 Chrome Yellow for the tips. I chose to paint the tips first, with the knowledge that yellow is a color that doesn’t cover prior colors well. Had I painted the blades black first, I would have had a devil of a time painting the yellow over it. It would take many coats of yellow to cover the black properly. Once the paint on the tips and hub was completely dry, I masked them and painted the spinner red and the propeller blades black. Should you anticipate applying decals, which I did, be sure to use glossy paint so that the water-slide decals will
When you get done with your model’s show-type propeller, you’ll see it is a work of art. It will add that scale presence to your airplane. This is how my finished propeller looked ready to mount.
adhere completely. I would add that even after diligent scrubbing, you may find that resin parts don’t absorb paint. As a result, it is really easy for the paint to chip and to pull off when you are removing masking tape. Keep this in mind when you’re masking over painted areas, and be ready to do touch-ups if needed. You can do this by spraying some paint into the paint can’s cap, allowing some of the solvent to evaporate and then carefully painting with a small brush. It is easy. Also, wear gloves, or you’re sure to get paint on both hands! Apply water-slide decals only after the paint has had a long curing interval. Best bet is to follow the decal manufacturer’s instructions. I typically dip the carefully closecut decal in ordinary water (some builders swear by distilled) and place them image-up on a damp towel so the water softens them. I wet the intended application area. Then I slither the decal off the backing paper
onto the part. Using a wet paintbrush, I coax the decal into position, then gently blot the water away from the decal. Decal setting solution, the kind model railroaders use, will help the decal “snuggle down,” and it can eliminate “silvering,” the result of imperfect adhesion. Don’t be afraid to apply the solvent solution repeatedly. But remember, the paint must be well cured. After the decal is dry, give the propeller a spray of clear finish—in my example, a matte surface. My paint choices are probably not fuel proof, but because this model is flown using a different propeller it is a non-issue. This is a big, impressive airplane, which has countless successful flights in its logbook. When it’s on the ground and on display, it is even more impressive with its well-finished, detailed, scale propeller. You’ll find these are fun projects that provide the proverbial icing on the cake.
This is how my propeller looks mounted on Alfred Fusco’s magnificent, award-winning P-47 fighter airplane, which was on display at the WRAM Show, where he entered it in the competition.
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RC-SF.COM
41
BY Wil Byers
Alpine Soaring 2012 “Birds Soar By Gliding Down Through Rising Air”
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very Fourth of July weekend since 1987 I’ve trekked to the stunningly beautiful Wallowa Valley’s Joseph, Oregon to vacation and fly model gliders and sailplanes. It all started when my daughter, Bess, was born. That summer we rented a cabin at the foot of Mt. Howard, which is just south of Joseph. I had opted to bring my Cloud Climber glider with me to do a little soaring from some fields that are near town. Then we made the decision to take the gondola ride to the top of Mt. Howard for some day hiking and for the majestic scenery. You see, the gondola carries passengers up 4000 plus feet to the top of the mountain, which is 8350 feet above sea level. Because I’m so hopelessly addicted to flying gliders, I asked the gondola operator if I could take my glider to the top to try some soaring. He agreed that it was possible. So, up the mountain we all went, glider in gondola too. Walking the few hundred yards to the top of the mountain with the glider assembled and ready to fly, I gave it a throw out into the alpine air. The glider then immediately started sinking. I kept flying it in search of rising air. Finally, when the glider was but a dot in the huge 50
RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
Cole Pendell and Roc Cox make the trip from Idaho almost every year to relax and search for thermals.
It doesn’t matter if you fly a Sophisticated Lady or a $6K super soarer, Wallowa is just about flying for fun and relaxation.
Alpine Soaring 2012
GoProŽ and little USB cameras let pilots get a look at what flying is like from the the cockpit of their models—cool!
Limited Motor Run (LMR) gliders are preferred by some of the pilots who attend because launching is so easy.
Curtis Suter is a serious ALES enthusiast. He hosted a clinic in 2012 that was very informative.
The cloud development in the Wallowa Valley can be stunning to say the least! Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer
Look at this cumulonimbus street! It tells any self-respecting soaring enthusiast that there is massive rising air in the distance. RC-SF.COM
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BY Wil Byers
1SQ RTF This is a strange-looking little beast. It has the look of a fun little bug that is ready for you to fly around the house, in the shop or even in the office.
Advanced Quadcopter Technology In A MicroSize Body
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ith the development of improved micro-processor systems implementing very, very large-scale integration (VVLSI), it’s no wonder that a new helicopter design is sweeping the marketplace by storm—I mean four blades working in unison. Based on a pioneering design for a helicopter with its initial design concept created in the early 1900s, the early quadcopter was very stable but far too complicated to operate by a single pilot. The newer hardware, software, speed controllers and batteries of today, however, have resurrected the quadcopter. Using four motors and propellers rather than two, with a pair clockwise and another pair counter-clockwise rotating propellers, the fun little HeliMax 1SQ 2.4-GHz RTF quadcopter is a unique and fun step away from the conventional helicopter. It will take you in the right direction for a delightful flying experience. 58
RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
The Kit
The Heli-Max 1SQ Micro Quad Ready-To-Fly (RTF) comes neatly and safely packaged between layers of hard plastic casing. Factory
assembled, the 1SQ is ready to fly just as soon as the lithium-polymer (LiPo) battery is charged. A USB charging station, a small Philips screwdriver, a spare set of rotor blades, a 3.7-V 250-mAh LiPo battery, four AA batteries and a transmitter are included with the 1SQ package. A small, yet very informative user manual is tucked in the top of the first plastic case. The manual details how to charge, set up and fly the aircraft, and it includes a parts listing in the back.
Your 1SQ quadcopter comes ready to fly. All you need to do is take it out of the box, charge its little LiPo pack and then bind it to the transmitter. You’ll have it flying in 30 minutes or less.
Heli-Max® 1SQ RTF
What You Get
• Airframe Carbon, ABS plastic • Battery Heli-Max 3.7-V 250-mAh 1S LiPo • Receiver Heli-Max TAGS 3-1 Control Board 1SQ • Motors Four • Transmitter Heli-Max TX410 SLT 2.4-GHz • Batteries (4) AA
In Flight
Hang on to your bloody britches; this thing is fun to fly. It is small and a
When compared with a dollar, you see that the 1SQ is a pretty small quadcopter. It comes with everything you need to get it flying in no time too!
The 1SQ comes with a mode 2 transmitter as well as the “AA” batteries you’ll need to power it.
Thanks to very, very large-scale integration circuit boards, the 1SQ quadcopter’s electronics (speed controller, receiver and stabilization) are packed onto this little board—amazing! Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer
bit twitchy at first, so get ready to be on the controls. However, once you feel this little machine out it gets to be really a kick in the pants to fly. I found that it will start to hover with just about 25 percent power. I never did put the throttle full up because I was test-flying it in the office where the ceilings are only eight feet high. What I did find is that is very responsive in both pitch and roll. Its forward speed is pretty good as well, but again it was flown in the office, so I could not really let it rip. You’ll want to turn off the air conditioning because the 1SQ will feel it, and you’ll need to be ready to respond to any changes in attitude. At first, this is like flying any other
The quadcopter comes in this very nice little box, which doubles as a carrying case, so you can just grab it and go flying with your buddies at a gym or even in their family room. RC-SF.COM
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BY Richard Kuns
Mini Contender EP ARF Review You’ll Like the Nostalgia and Flight of This One
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op Flite has revived this longsuccessful sport airplane for the electric generation. The original Contender, a 60-size kit, has been around for forty years and is still available. In fact, I built and flew one early in my RC career. I was pleased to discover that the Mini Contender has very similar flying characteristics. It is a good airplane choice for pilots who are ready for their first low-wing, symmetric airfoil airplane.
Steep crabs are quite solid if you want to fly them with your Mini Contender. I found them fun to do too.
Basic aerobatics are all quite possible with this little airplane because of the safety of the stable rectangular wing shape. Experienced pilots will enjoy that it delivers easy, relaxed aerobatics in a small package. This new Mini Contender can be easily transported, assembled and made ready for some quick flights.
What You Get
The airplane is packed in a sturdy box with cardboard sheets and partitions separating the various pieces. For additional protection, all Kit is very complete. Contents include wire landing gear, assembled wing, canopy, cowl, all the hardware and colorful decals—Navy or Air Force.
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RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
Top FliteÂŽ Mini Contender EP ARF Review
A Rimfire .10 outrunner, Silver Series 25-amp ESC and 1800-mAh 30C three-cell LiPo pack are used in addition to Futaba S3114 Micro high-torque servos.
The vertical fin and horizontal stabilizer lock each other into the correct position with a clever mortise and tenon design.
Dry Decal Application Trim the decal and backing sheet to a rectangular shape and remove the clear waste between the decal and edge. Use masking tape to secure it in the desired position. Roll the free end of the decal back and then peel and cut off the backing sheet. Be careful not to get fingerprints on the adhesive side, which can ruin the look of the decal.
Carefully roll the decal onto the surface while avoiding creating wrinkles or bubbles underneath it, which can be difficult if not impossible to remove.
Finally, roll the decal onto the surface of the wing, again being careful to avoid wrinkles or bubbles. Then you’re finished, without needing a messy soap solution.
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Lift the remaining side of the decal up and away from the wing. Then remove the backing sheet on that side of the decal.
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BY Daniel Holman
Twist 3D 480 A Mike McConville Design That Gets You Flying 3D Fast
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ears ago when I was first getting into flying 3D airplanes, the Hangar 9® Twist .40 was a favorite among sport and 3D pilots. With its fat airfoil, long wing chord and light wing loading, it was a very forgiving airplane that you could yank around effortlessly. Recently E-Flite® took all the new design features that have become standard in today’s almost-ready-to-fly (ARF) airplanes and built a very lightweight version of this classic airframe. With its large
control surfaces and an insanely light wing loading, it is a great backyard and park flyer for 3D and sport pilots.
Kit Contents
Unfortunately, the wings on my model were crushed during their shipment to my home. No matter, I never broke a sweat about it because I knew that Horizon Hobby would take care of the problem and get me a new set of wings for my Twist 3D.
Their customer service is second to none, and they sent out a new set within a few days of my call to their customer service desk. The airplane came packaged well, with all the airframe parts individually bagged. The wing joiner tube and pushrods were taped to the bottom of the box, and the hardware was in a Ziploc® bag to keep it all together. The well-written instruction manual and decal set are also bagged and come taped down as well.
The Twist comes out of its kit box as a complete package with all the necessary hardware. The fit and finish are good, and only a few hours of assembly are required.
Here I am in our backyard enjoying a beautiful morning with the Twist. The Spektrum® DX-18 transmitter is an amazing piece of equipment that provides pilots with excellent precision and 3D flying.
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RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
E-Flite® Twist 3D 480
Inverted harriers can be done at walking speed with the E-Flite® Twist, and you will be on the deck in no time! There is very little wing rock, but a lot of left rudder is required to hold a straight line.
The Twist looks great in high-speed knife-edge flight but requires a notable amount of opposite aileron and a little down elevator to maintain flying on the straight and level heading.
The E-Flite® Twist 3D 480’s color scheme was designed for maximum visibility and shows up beautifully in the blue sky. In the background you can see the beautiful Columbia Gorge mountains.
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BY Dan Deckert
Phazer EDF ARF An EDF Jet that Puts You in the Ejection Seat
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f you are an experienced pilot and enjoy a good-looking, fast airplane, then this ARF is for you. The white body with the red-andsilver-trimmed color scheme on this electric ducted fan (EDF) jet is outstanding too. Great Planes provides a warning in the kit that the Phazer requires advanced piloting skills and is not suitable for beginning or intermediate pilots. I strongly suggest you heed the advice.
The kit comes with all the gear you’ll need to build it. As you can see, the parts come individually packaged to reduce loss and protect them against damage. RC SPORT FLYER — February 2013
You get a well-packaged, delta-wing jet with some goodies beyond what one would normally expect. Great Planes also provides an easy-to-assemble bungee launcher and a center of gravity balancer in the kit. The manual is very detailed and illustrated with high-quality images.
Kit Contents
The completed airplane is absolutely gorgeous with a finish second to none. This little airplane is easy to build and is a hot little jet to fly. You’ll enjoy it.
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What You Get
• Fiberglass fuselage • MonoKote® covered balsa/ plywood delta wing • HyperFlow fan unit • 24-45-3790-Kv in-runner brushless Ammo® motor • Motor extension wires
The recommended components are an excellent fit for this airplane. I got my model at towerhobbies.com. They offer a complete package, so you won’t be hunting for the right components.
Great Planes Phazer EDF ARF • Hardware packages (balance jig, bungee launcher, aircraft parts) • Wing joiner tube • Landing skid set
Needed to Complete
Electronics: • FlightPower® EON-X™ 14.8-V 2200-mAh 30C LiPo • ElectriFly® Silver Series 35-amp ESC • Futaba S3157 digital micro servos (2) • Three-channel transmitter with mixing capabilities • Receiver (Futaba R617FS) • 6-in. servo extension (2) Hardware: • Hobby knife • Screwdrivers, pliers, hex drivers, crescent wrench, ruler • Pin drill set • 150-grit sandpaper • Thin or medium CA
This is a delta-wing airplane. The wings mate to the fuselage. Mine came in perfect condition and did not need an ironing of the covering before assembly.
Looking through the exhaust at the intakes shows how clean the fuselage is, which allows for maximum airflow to the ducted fan.
Right out of the packaging, the parts are just begging to be assembled. The finish quality of my Phazer EDF model was spotless.
This is the balance stand that comes with the airplane kit. I recommend you assemble it first so you can then focus on the airplane.
My holding technique shown here is just for a power system test. The actual release has the airplane with its nose just barely above the horizon. Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer
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