RC SPORT FLYER MAGAZINE
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WE TAKE FLIGHT IN THE NEW HANGAR 9 CHRISTEN EAGLE II P 20+ EXCITING NEW PRODUCTS P ARCUS SAILPLANE REPORT
WE TAKE FLIGHT IN THE NEW CHRISTEN EAGLE II
SEPTEMBER 2012 VOLUME 17 ISSUE 07
20+ EXCITING NEW PRODUCTS
ARCUS SAILPLANE REPORT SEPTEMBER 2012
USA & CANADA $6.49
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LEARN HOW TO USE HITEC’S SERVO PROGRAMMER
TAKE OUR READERS’ SURVEY
Plus:
Making Molds Piper Pacer Plan Super Cub Build LIKE RC SPORT FLYER @ FACEBOOK
Rob Caso gives you a step-by-step approach on how to make molds for scale airplanes. Pg 42.
Christen Eagle II ARF Test Report Page 84
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RC SPORT FLYER — SEPTEMBER 2012
See how to use the Hitec RCD HFP-25 servo programmer to make setting up your airplanes easier and faster. Pg 78.
DEPARTMENTS 10
LEADING EDGE
14
HOT PRODUCTS
104
ADVERTISER INDEX
105
MYSTERY AIRPLANE
BUILD
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WORLD MODELS CUB Get the inside dope on how to hop up your 1/3-scale Cub for DA-100 2-cylinder-engine power. By James VanWinkle
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WINGS, PART 5 See how Jeff puts the finishing touches on building his Super Sportster wings. By Jeff Troy
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SCALE Learn how easy it is to make molds for scale parts in this step-by-step building article. By Rob Caso
SEPTEMBER 2012
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PLAN
PIPER PACER Here is a 1/3-scale airplane that will make you want to start clearing your building bench immediately. By Wendell Hostetler
HOW TO
PIMP YOUR APPRENTICE If you want to change the look of your generic model, here is a way to make it stand out from the crowd. By Bob Mitchell
68 CARPET TAPE
Discover how many uses there are for carpet tape around your workbench and shop. By Jerry Smith
Get an inside look on why the TG-3A makes an excellent scale glider for aerotowing.
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FEATURE
ARCUS 20-M SAILPLANE Jochen explains why the new ARCUS sailplane is the new 20-M 2-place high performance sailplane. By Jochen Ewald SCHWEIZER TG-3A We give you an inside look at what it was like to build the Schweizer TG-3A scale glider. By Martin C. Zeller
HOP UP
HANGAR 9 EXTRA 300 This article provides the basics of how to convert this model from a 2-cylinder engine to a 4-cylinder. By Duane Sides
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REVIEWS
HITEC HFP-25 We show you why this programmer simplifies transmitter setup. By Wil Byers
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CHRISTEN EAGLE II See why Hangar 9’s new biplane is an attractive sport airplane. By Wil Byers
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BP BATTERY CHARGERS Find out why these chargers may be a super buy for you. By James VanWinkle
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SZD-45 OGAR Look at why this glider makes for some long and high flights. By Gene Cope
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By James VanWinkle
THE WORLD MODELS SUPER CUB
™
1/3-SCALE CUB WITH POWER TO SPARE In the air this model is an absolute joy to fly. Its performance with DA100 power is beyond any Super Cub you might buy or fly! WOW is the word I have for this model.
T
he World Models™ has a respected reputation for providing awesome flying airplanes that are priced very competitively. Their 1/3-scale Super Cub is no exception. The Super Cub is a sport-scale version of the fullscale Piper PA-18 two-seat airplane, which was introduced in 1949. There were more than 9000 full-scale Piper Super Cubs built. Even today, various manufacturers are still selling their own brand of Super Cub. Cubs are commonly found pulling banners, towing sailplanes and flying into harsh environments as bush planes, thanks to their high-lift wing and rugged design. Even though the full-scale Piper Cub’s heritage goes back to the 1930s, my new Super Cub from The World Models includes the addition of an electrical system, flaps and a powerful gas-powered engine. My Super Cub model also got a lot of upgrades that complement the great stock design. I was inspired to make these changes from a fellow RC pilot and IMAC (International Miniature Aircraft Club) competitor, Cody Wilson. He flies The World Models 1/3-scale Super Cub in Freestyle and recently won first place doing so. Cody absolutely loves his Super Cub, and he upgraded his model to turn it into a competent Freestyle machine. Thanks to his help via email and some time spent scouring the forums at TeamFlyingCircus.com, I followed his lead. It is worth noting that Cody is now flying The World Models clipped-wing Cub as well.
IN THE AIR
Let me start off by saying, wow! My new Super Cub is an absolutely 28
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phenomenal flyer. Powered by a DA-100 up front, the airplane leaps into the air with just a few feet of take-off roll. It does not need full throttle power to do so, either. In fact, about half throttle is all that is needed to take off and then perform a good climb. Cubs are known to have ground looping problems, but this model exhibits none whatsoever. It does pull to the left slightly when the throttle is advanced quickly. I did not want to offset the motor box of the Super Cub to counteract the left yawing tendency, because having a motor box offset only works properly at one point in the power curve. To keep my model flying straight, I
mixed some rudder control with the throttle in my transmitter. Then, as the throttle is advanced, the rudder moves slightly to the right in a linear fashion. Only a few percent control mix is needed, which I set to max out at about 5% total throw. The pattern guys often use this same method, and it is a better solution than offsetting the motor box. Like a big trainer, the Super Cub will fly easily with your hands off the controls—tracking straight across the sky. The wings have a slight amount of dihedral built into them to help keep the Cub’s wings level. Stalls are simple with the nose dropping some and a bit of a wing drop, but not enough to worry about. The airplane points nose down and is flying again
THE WORLD MODELS™ SUPER CUB within a second or two with only a few feet of altitude loss. The Super Cub performs great rolls and wonderful loops with plenty of power to spare. I found that the loops can be flown extremely tightly without stalling the wing. I saw this mentioned in a forum and had to find out for myself, and sure enough, it is a fact. Rolls are big and definitely not axial, although with some piloting they can be pretty close to straight. The Super Cub is not a pattern machine, so big, wide rolls are to be expected, and more importantly, they look right in the sky. The airplane will fly most aerobatic maneuvers. It is certainly not a 3D machine, but it hovers easily, performs 4-point rolls and executes knife-edge flight (with ease and without any altitude loss),
Cubans and more. Inverted flight is such a no brainer that it nearly flies hands off when upside down. Flat spins, particularly the upright kind, are simply amazing. The airplane spins very well, and with some added throttle and cross ailerons it will flatten out and turn very quickly, gently losing altitude. It reminds me of maple seeds that fall from the trees and then spin like a helicopter as they gently make their way earthward. To stop the Cub’s spin you just add power and opposite rudder, and the Super Cub will fly away straight in seconds. The wing struts are functional, which means they are needed as support elements. This is important to know. After one of my Cub’s flights I noticed while taxiing it back to the ramp that a strut was hanging loose.
The supplied hardware had departed on one strut at the wing attach point after a hard day of flying. The screws just backed out and dropped away, which could have turned out badly! Ironically, I received an e-mail when I got home suggesting I replace the hardware because it seemed a bit loose. I suggest you do good preflight inspections, keeping an eye on the hardware. Also be sure to secure the screws and bolts where needed with thread locker compound. My fix was to buy new hardware and drill holes in the screws so they could be safety wired in place. A huge plus of the Super Cub is its flaps. This model makes excellent use of them, with a ton of flap available. They can be configured to travel nearly 90 degrees, which will add a huge amount of lift and drag.
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BY Jeff Troy
WINGS, PART 5 MY SUPER SPORTSTER’S WINGS COME TOGETHER
T
he project on my workbench right now is constructing the wing for the Great Planes® Super Sportster 60. The Sportster is just one of five airplanes that I’m building for the camera, and like the other four, it’s a superb kit with a number of opportunities to pass along a few techniques that may interest and enlighten you. My build series is ongoing, and each installment picks up where one of the previous installments left off. Space and common sense prevent the reiteration of each previously covered instructional, so if you missed any earlier segments and would like to catch up, please contact the RC Sport Flyer office 36
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Here are the four completed gear-carrying ribs. The plywood support plates are secured with five-minute epoxy, and notches have been cut to fit the gear blocks without any slop.
to order back issues. If you don’t already subscribe, you might even want to consider it. The current rate is an entire year—12 issues—for just $24.95 postpaid. You’ve already seen how I handled the undercamber wing of the Shive Specialties Dallaire Sportster and the three semi-symmetrical wings of the Nick Ziroli Fokker Dr.1. The Dallaire had no ailerons, and the upper Dr.1 had barn door ailerons. New twists for the Super Sportster 60 wing will include a blocked-up trailing edge, hardwood landing blocks and strip ailerons.
This wing is neither difficult nor time consuming to construct, but like every part of every model you will ever build, each step should be handled carefully and in the order specified in the instruction manual. The Super Sportster 60 gives you the choice of conventional landing gear (two main gears and a tail wheel) or tricycle gear (two main gears and a nose gear), and your choice affects the location of the landing gear blocks in the wing. If you choose the conventional option, commonly referred to as a “taildragger,” the blocks will mount
WINGS, PART 5 under the wing ahead of the main spar. If the tricycle gear option is chosen, the blocks are installed behind the main spar. Locations for both choices are clearly shown on the plans. Two ribs on each side of the wing carry the blocks, and notches in the ribs for the landing gear blocks must be cut. Producing the kit with the notches uncut allows you to make the correct cutouts for the gear of your choice. I chose the tricycle gear version of the model because the other four models in my series are all, coincidentally, taildraggers. The landing gear blocks will be reinforced by plywood plates that surround the blocks on three sides and are secured to each of the four affected wing ribs with epoxy. Make your gear choice, then mark the appropriate location of the landing gear blocks on the four ribs. Check the fit of the landing gear blocks in the plywood plates, and if necessary, enlarge the notches to accommodate the blocks. Lay the plates over the ribs and use them as templates to make the appropriate notches in the ribs. There isn’t much problem of sheer separation between the ribs and plates, so using a slow-setting epoxy won’t really buy you much in the way of added security. Five-minute epoxy will do this job quickly and efficiently, but be absolutely certain that you attach each plate to the correct face of each rib. The plates mount on the
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root sides of the two inboard ribs and tip sides of the two outboard ribs. When framing a wing, it’s a common practice to pin down the trailing edge, fit a few ribs against it and use the ribs to locate the main spar. Then the main spar is pinned down. Because the trailing edge of the Sportster will be shimmed (blocked up or raised), construction of wing frame begins with pinning down the main spar instead. You want your model’s wing to be absolutely straight, so line up and pin the spar at the root and tip, then lay a metal straightedge against it while you add a few pins along the length of the spar. The straightedge ensures that the spar is dead straight, which is imperative for a warp- and wave-free wing. The spar comes notched to ensure the precise location of each rib, and the ribs are dry fitted next, which means that you place them without using any adhesive. Note that if you’ve chosen the tricycle gear
Slip the ribs into position over the spar, noting that two of the notches need to be relieved to accommodate the plywood plates on the gear-carrying ribs.
version of the airplane, the notches in the spar must be slightly modified for the gear-block-carrying ribs to accommodate the plywood plates. There is an extra length of 3/4 x 1-in. balsa in the kit, and this is used to shim the trailing edge at the correct height. Use the tails of the ribs to place the balsa shim, then pin the shim down over the plan. Lay a piece of Great Planes Plans Protector over the shim and pin the trailing edge down over the shim and against the rib tails. Before applying thin cyanoacrylate (CA) glue to each of these joints, note that the tails are slightly taller than the trailing edge. Be sure that the tails of the ribs extend equally above and below beyond the height of the trailing edge, and use a small triangle to get
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Constructing the Super Sportster 60 wing frame begins with pinning down the main spar. Use a heavy metal straightedge to ensure that the spar is dead straight.
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Shim the trailing edge, center the rib tails on the trailing edge and secure each rib to the spar and trailing edge with thin CA. Add the leading edge and top spar, centering the leading edge against the nose of each rib. Thin CA is the ticket. RC-SF.COM
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BY the late Jochen Ewald
ARCUS THE NEW 20-METER STAR
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hen Schempp-Hirth presented their Janus 35 years ago—the very first serial-built, fiber-composite flapped two-seater sailplane with an 18.2-meter wingspan—the famous glider factory at Kirchheim/Teck (south of Stuttgart) started a new era in soaring. Two-seater, highperformance flying and competitions had gone into “sleep mode” since the open two-seater class racing was abandoned at the world championships during the 1950s. With the introduction of Janus, it became attractive again, and soon other manufacturers also presented highperformance composite (GRP) twoseater sailplanes, and pilots started asking for a new two-seater class in 48
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sailplane competitions. This class was introduced with a 20-meter wingspan limit as a way to make it club friendly. In 1979, the Janus C appeared, built using the new carbon fiber materials that stretched the length to a 20-meter wingspan and also reduced its weight. In 1993 Schempp-Hirth presented the Duo Discus, which although it had no flaps, set a new standard in this class. Schempp-Hirth engineers, ever inventive, continued to work on a new, flapped-wing concept to enhance the performance level in this class. Just in time for the Aero Exposition 2009, they introduced the prototype of the new Arcus. I was then invited to fly the Arcus at the Hahnweide airfield.
For the Arcus’s wing, the designers chose to use an airfoil developed at the laminar wind tunnel in Stuttgart by Dr. Werner Würz, which was adapted to the new glider’s specifications. Jan Himisch and Professor Karl-Heinz Horstmann (the ‘H’ of the HQ-airfoils) worked together to optimize the wing shape, and Professor Mark Maughmer (USA) designed the winglets. The joint venture led to the actual shape of the Arcus wing, in which six different airfoils take care of optimal airflow everywhere. An important feature, especially for such a curved wing, was the aero-elasticity. In no case did the aircraft show a tendency to flutter, even at speeds somewhat above the Arcus’ velocity never exceed (Vne).
ARCUS— THE NEW 20-M STAR
The wing design of the Arcus uses airfoils that were developed at the laminar wind tunnel in Stuttgart Germany by Dr. Werner Würz.
Jan Himisch and Professor Karl-Heinz Horstmann (the ‘H’ of the HQ-airfoils) worked together to optimize the wing shape.
Professor Mark Maughmer, of the USA, designed the winglets for the Arcus, which add to the optimization of the sailplane’s wing.
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BY Martin C. Zeller
SCHWEIZER TG-3A A QUARTER-SCALE VINTAGE SAILPLANE
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he name Schweizer is synonymous with gliders, Elmira, New York and the famous soaring site at Harris Hill where the Schweizer factory was located. Ernie and Paul Schweizer are famous for building many full-scale gliders and sailplanes, but they were model builders in the beginning. Paul A. Schweizer published a wonderful memoir, Soaring Through the 20th Century (available at cumulussoaring.com), in which he describes
This is the full-scale TG-3A that is now shown in the U.S. Air Force Museum in Dayton, Ohio. I followed this glider’s color scheme for my model.
how he and Ernie developed an early interest in aviation in general, which developed into a specific interest in gliding. Model kits were not available to Paul and Ernie as boys, so they became scratch builders. Their source of balsa was reclaimed insulation, used in those times in ice cream
This full-scale TG-2 is a restoration project done by Steve Noyes. The TG-2 had some minor design deficiencies. Due to a shortage of materials during the war, the war department specified that the next generation, TG-3, be redesigned to correct the deficiencies and employ all-wood wing construction.
The quarter-scale TG-3A looks very scale both in flight and on the ground. The gliders flies extremely well and would make for a good aircraft for pilots wanting to get into aerotowing.
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SCHWEIZER TG-3A
trucks. Interestingly, they started their first business as a balsa wood supplier for model builders—small world, right? The brothers’ entry into fullscale sailplane fabrication was via the Schweizer Metal Aircraft Company, which was incorporated in 1939. However, they’d already built their first glider in 1930. In 1941, the Army Air Corps began an aggressive glider training program. The U.S. Army Air Corps
(USAAC) selected the TG-2, a variant of an existing Schweizer SGS 2-8, for evaluation. The TG-2 was in fact the first training glider delivered to the military. It was followed by the TG-3A, one of many military glider trainers used during WWII. It entered service in 1942 with a delivery of 110 units. It was used to train pilots for the cargo- and troop-carrying WACO CG-4A. Trainees received approximately six hours of dual instruction prior to transitioning to
the CG-4A. So the Schweizers’ TG3A vintage sailplane holds a unique place in aviation history. The construction of the TG3A was quite conventional, with a fuselage of the typical welded tube type. The wing spars and ribs, empennage and turtle deck were fabricated from wood. Good spruce for the spars wasn’t available because of the war, so they had to settle for fir and poplar for the laminations. The design improvements in the 3A RC-SF.COM
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BY Wendell Hostetler
THIRD-SCALE PIPER TRI-PACER 115 INCHES OF CLASSIC DESIGN THAT YOU CAN BUILD
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he PA-20 Pacer and PA-22 Tri-Pacer are cute, fun-to-fly, full-scale and four-place aircraft. They were built as strut-braced, high-wing light airplanes, meant to introduce the masses to the fun and thrill of flying. The Pacer was a variant of the four-place version of the two-place PA-17 Vagabond. It utilized a steel tube fuselage as well as an aluminumframed wing. The airplane was covered in fabric. Piper introduced the PA-22 Tri-Pacer to the public in 1953 as a way to get more people flying. It had improved cross-wind ground-handling
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by way of a nosewheel. The Tri-Pacer offered more power too, with 150and 160-horsepower engines. The tricycle gear became so popular that the PA-22 Tri-Pacer outsold the Pacer by a ratio of six to one.
Full-Scale Specifications Wingspan
29 ft 3 in.
Wing Area
147.5 ft2
Length
20 ft 6 in.
Airfoil
Clark Y
Maximum Speed
141 mph
Cruise Speed
134 mph
THIRD-SCALE PIPER TRI-PACER
Plan Now you can build a 1/3-scale Tri-Pacer using Wendell Hostetler’s plans. The plans include two sheets, which are super high quality. You can likely get a laser-cut pack from one of Wendell’s sources as well. So, check out this plan and then give Wendell a call.
Plan Specifications Scale
33 percent
Wingspan
115 in.
Wing Area
2282 in.2
Weight
28—30 lb
Length
81.6 in.
Power
2.4 to 4 in.3
Source Wendell Hostetler’s Plans 545 Jerome Dr Orrville, OH 44667 Phone: 330-682-8896 hostetlersplans.com
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BY Jerry Smith
CARPET TAPE
The “picker” really comes in handy for placing screws in hard-toreach, tight places where your fingers will not fit. You merely need to give the picker a slight twist to start and release the screw. You will find many uses for this handy, simple tool during problematic tasks.
H
aving built and flown models for years, I have run across many useful model building tips and ideas. During my 30 years as a contributing editor to RC Modeler Magazine I found lots of ways to make my builds easier and eliminate the frustration that can come from building RC airplanes. Some of the ideas were good, and some were
TACK TO THE RESCUE
With carpet tape, you can make a simple tool to pick up small parts. I call it a “picker.” Cut off a small piece of the tape, remove the paper and wrap it around the end of a small dowel or stick. The tape is very tacky. When the end loses its tack, lift and move the tape to an unused spot and you are ready for more picking. This little tool has helped me many times to pick up and place small parts.
bad. An idea that is truly useful and really works is what I’m looking for, and that’s the kind of idea I plan to pass along to you. I have probably forgotten more than I know at this point; however, there is a need for good, useable, up-to-date suggestions that deal with the current generation of RC airplanes, helicopters and gliders. Some of the old tried-and-
true building techniques still work, and well. The best building tips seem always to come by way of a modeler’s ingenuity. More often than not these inspirations arise when the modeler tries to solve a nagging building or assembly problem. It seems there is always a better way to build, and actually a lot of better ways … A good example is the way we secure the airplane’s radio system’s servo lead connectors together with shrink tubing, dental floss, rubber bands, tape or some of the fancy servo lead connector clips available. They all do a good job for their intended purpose. This how-to article deals specifically with carpet tape and how it can help make building your models go more easily in the workshop. Let’s begin with describing carpet tape. It is a very thin membrane tape used to hold down carpet in homes or to keep a carpet or rug from Carpet tape can be used to “safety” servo lead connectors so they don’t come apart. Dental floss, shrink tubing, plastic tie wraps and rubber bands or clips can be used as well. However, for carpet tape you should clean the connectors with alcohol before applying the tape. The tape will work well, and it is very lightweight.
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CARPET TAPE
Inside the radio compartment of some builder’s airplanes you’ll see a huge mess of wires. You can clean up your airplane by using a bit of carpet tape. Cut small pieces of carpet tape but leave the paper on one side. Use the tape to secure the wires to the side of the fuselage. Your model will be clean and neat inside, and there will be more useable room in the fuselage.
Locating and mounting control horns can be troublesome, but carpet tape makes it easy. Just place a small piece of carpet tape on the bottom of a horn and trim around the tape’s edges. Then you can easily mount and remove the horn. I generally use a drill press to match drill the mounting holes before mounting the horns to the surfaces. The tape will hold the horns in place while drilling. Do not remove the tape when installing the control horn for an even stronger bond.
Here is a great idea for installing cowls. Temporarily fasten the cowl in place with carpet tape. Place carpet tape on the back side of the spinner’s backplate and install it on the motor shaft along with the propeller, spinner and propeller nut. Then pull the cowl against the spinner’s backplate and tape, centering it with the spinner. The tape will hold the cowl perfectly in place while you drill the mounting holes. Use cardboard to shim the distance between the cowl and spinner if desired. You will need tape on both sides of the cardboard if so. See my article on mounting cowls in the March/April issue of this magazine.
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BY Wil Byers
HITEC HFP-25 GET CENTERED QUICKLY AND EASILY
O
ver the years I’ve learned to pay special attention to the set-up details of my models with regards to their control systems, whether it be for a glider, an airplane or a helicopter. One of the details that modelers often overlook is setting the center positions on their model’s servos relative to the control surfaces’ neutral position and the sub trims of their transmitter. To make setups even easier and less time consuming, Hitec RCD sells the new HFP-25 servo programmer. It allows you to reprogram your servos’ center positions so that you no longer need to use sub trimming and other functions in the transmitter to get them set properly. This is the control package that I’m going to use in my new model: Aurora 9, Optima receiver and 7954 servos. The HFP-25 will let me pre-program the servos before I program the transmitter.
WHAT CENTER IS
Let’s begin by explaining what a servo’s center is with respect to the electrical signals that control the servo. All Hitec servos require a 3- to 5-volt peak-to-peak square wave pulse for their pulse data. On the other hand, Hitec digital servos require a 0.8- to 5-volt peak-topeak square wave pulse. While the servo’s pulse duration runs from 900 micro seconds (µS) to 2100 µS, its center position is 1500 µS. Full travel clockwise or counter clockwise would be 600 µS off the center position of 1500 µS. Note that the pulse’s refresh rate is done at 50 Hz or 20 millisecond intervals. Note too that most Hitec servos can be powered by a DC source that ranges from 4.8 to 6.0 volts, with their later Programming the servos is almost stupid easy. You’ll need to install the batteries in the programmer. Plug in the servo and then step through the program menus.
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HITEC HFP-25 models accepting the 7.2 volts from a 2-cell LiPo pack.
WHAT IT DOES
The new HFP-25 lets you program your servos to a custom setting of your choice. Additionally you can test any brand of transmitter for the pulse sent to the receiver and any servo for voltage and proper movement. It is super easy to do too.
FUNCTIONS
• Reset servo to factory default • Select high or low resolution • Protect servo motor from overload current • Set the dead bandwidth • Set the direction of rotation (clockwise or counter clockwise) • Slow or speed up the rotation speed • Turn on a fail-safe setting • Set end, neutral or fail-safe points • Measure receiver pulses to the servos • Measure receiver voltage to the servos • Automatic servo movement test • Manual servo movement procedure
QUICK HOW TO
The HFP-25 is extremely easy to
use. Note, however, that I found the logic somewhat confusing at first, but if you actually read the manual you won’t! It is this easy. Start by charging the battery pack. You’ll need to remove the battery from the HFP-25 to charge it. It is a four-cell 1300mAh NiMH pack, so you can charge it with your Hitec charger, or any
At 1500 µS the servo is in its center position. Full travel is 600 µS off center plus or minus, so at 900 µS the servo is its full counter clockwise position.
other brand for that matter. Next, plug the servo into the servo port on the right side of the programmer. Then turn on the unit. The unit will likely boot up in Manual mode. In this mode, moving the dial in the upper right corner of the programmer will change
The HFP-25 has many program options. In Manual model you can test the servos travel by just turning the knob in the upper right corner plus or minus.
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BY Wil Byers
CHRISTEN EAGLE II 90 ARF HANGAR 9’S BEAUTIFULLY DONE BIPLANE
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he full-scale Christen Eagle is a colorful, high-performance biplane. The Eagle was developed and designed by Frank Christensen as an unlimited class aerobatic aircraft in the late 1970s. Its design was based on the famous Pitts Special. Frank wanted it to be a competition airplane, as well as serve as a trainer and cross country aircraft. More than one thousand of these aircraft have been built, flown and competed. The original twoseater was reworked to become a single-seater. It was then flown by Charlie Hillard, Tom Poberezny and Gene Soucy as The Eagles show team.
FULL-SCALE SPECIFICATIONS:
Wingspan 19 ft 11 in. Length 18 feet 6 in. Height 6 ft 6 in. Weight 1050 lb Engine 200 hp Lycoming AEI0-360 Speed 184 mph Range 350 miles Service ceiling 25,000 ft
HANGAR 9
The Hangar 9 Christen Eagle II has the same classy color scheme as the full-scale aircraft. It also has the performance that intermediate and advanced pilots will absolutely want to feel at their fingertips. As Hangar 9 says, “If you’re a sport flyer ready for more advanced planes or an aerobatic pro looking for a fun, sport scale model, the Christen Eagle II 90 has what you’re after.” The one thing that the Hangar 9 airplane has going for it over that of the full-scale airplane is that it’s an almost-ready-to-fly machine, which means you don’t have to build it from scratch. Also, with a price of just $329.99 at hangar-9.com, it is affordable for almost any modeler’s budget. My Christen Eagle II came very well packaged against shipping damage. The model arrives covered in the color scheme of the full-scale aircraft. The fuselage is made of the now typical laser-cut plywood and balsa parts, with a well-made plywood
The color scheme of the Christen Eagle II is unmistakable both on the ground and in the air. You’ll find this model super easy to see when it is in flight.
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motor box. Even the canopy is completed, with spring-loaded latches at the lower back of the frame that lock it in position on the fuselage. This is a nice feature, but know that you must get the pins aligned with the holes in the fuselage to lock the canopy in place properly—it takes some getting used to. The landing gear is plenty strong for this model, and it includes fiberglass wheel pants and plastic fuselage fairings. The fiberglass cowl is plenty strong too. You can’t see under the covering of the model to examine the wings’ construction, but from what I can see, this airplane’s flying surfaces are done exceedingly well.
KIT CONTENTS
Fuselage with hatch Wing set with struts Wing transport frames Wing tube set Empennage Canopy Fiberglass cowling & wheel pants Wheels with tail wheel assembly
This is a model that you can go out to the airfield and have a boatload of fun flying. But it will also impress the spectators when you fly it through some aerobatics.
CHRISTEN EAGLE II 90 ARF There is a ton of room inside the fuselage for the servos, batteries, switch and radio receiver. The servo tray comes ready for the servos to drop in.
The Power 90 motor in combination with the Castle Creations HV 80 speed controller makes plenty of power to pull this airplane!
Hardware package with pushrods Motor mount Spinner
ASSEMBLY
Even if you are a rank beginner you could assemble this ARF. However, if needed Hangar-9 supplies an excellent 35-page manual that will take you step-by-
Installing the servos could not be easier because they fasten to the servo covers that come factory prefabricated. Don’t forget to secure the connections.
You’ll even get the linkages and pushrods in the hardware package that comes in the Hangar 9 kit. It is a very complete ARF.
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BY James VanWinkle
BP HOBBIES CHARGER CHARGING BATTERY PACKS MADE EASY! Once the charge is complete the charger will announce and show on the backlit LCD display the word “FULL,” which means that the pack has completed a charge without any errors.
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P Hobbies offers a complete set of chargers and power supplies for any battery system application. I was able to get my hands on three of their most economical products to do some testing. From a power supply to two chargers, these products can handle the needs of most modelers for a price that is right. Even though they are inexpensive compared with other chargers, these products still offer high quality. The electronic components of the BP chargers come wrapped in a well-made anodized aluminum. They also employ easy-toread backlit LED screens and come with some good quality charging cables. Let’s take a look at what is available from BP Hobbies.
A12 POWER SUPPLY
BP’s A12 power supply is designed to deliver 12 volts direct current at 150 watts of regulated power. It mates well with the BP (or other) chargers though its female banana plug connections. The unit delivers 12 amps to your charger, which means it will let you do pretty fast charging, either for single or multiple battery packs. Its small footprint means it doesn’t take up much space on the work bench either.
BP Hobbies A12 power supply is ready to run right out of the box. The blue anodized case gives it a professional look. All pertinent operation data is on the case, so it is easy to see the capabilities without digging through manuals.
Features • • • • • • •
Over current protection Short circuit protection on output Internal cooling fan for optimal temperature control Universal AC voltage input range though a detachable AC power cord Chassis mount, rocker power switch Power on LED indicator Color-coded banana jacks
Specifications
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RC SPORT FLYER — SEPTEMBER 2012
Input voltage
90–265 V AC
Output voltage
12.0 V DC
Output current
12.5 amps
Power
150 watts
Efficiency
Up to 87%
Price (BPHobbies)
$ 39.95
BP HOBBIES CHARGER A built-in balance port provides a nononsense battery connection without requiring additional adapter boards. If the pack comes with a balance plug, just attach it to the balance port and it is ready to charge.
The 410B charger utilizes a switch to pick either LiPo or LiFe battery type. Why the switch? Because the voltages of the packs are slightly different, and selecting the wrong battery can cause damage.
The 410B is shown here in action charging a LiFe battery pack. The display cycles through the pertinent charge information, which at this moment is pack voltage.
410B CHARGERY POWER CHARGER
The 410B charger is a superb, economical fit for charging 2- to 4-cell LiPo and LiFe battery packs. With extremely easy-to-follow instructions, the charger can be used within minutes of taking it out of the box. The power source to use with the 410B ranges from the Chargery series power supplies to anything that provides between 12–18 volts DC, such as a car battery. To safeguard a car’s battery from being drained below car-starting capacity, the 410B automatically cuts off if the source voltage drops to 10 volts or less. And, if the the charger’s input polarity is detected as being reversed, the charger will not turn on. The built-in balance port allows for a clean setup without having to use external balance boards while charging. The balancer is designed to accommodate 2- to 4-cell battery The power supply connects to the 410B battery charger as it charges one of the BP 6.6-volt 20C 850-mAh LiFe packs. Notice how I have the balance leads plugged right into the charger.
RC-SF.COM
93
BY Gene Cope
THE WINGS MAKER SZD-45 OGAR FLY THIS SCALE MOTOR GLIDER FOR HOURS OF FUN
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he full-scale, self-launching Ogar first flew in 1973. The Ogar features sailplane-type rigging, good soaring capability and staggered side-by-side two-place seating. Additionally, the Ogar utilizes a Hoffmann two-blade pusherpropeller power system. Its landing gear is semi-retractable, and approach control is by top and bottom wing surface airbrakes. The U.S. version is powered with the dual ignition, turbocharged, Revmaster® engine. The SZD-45 Ogar from The Wings Maker is available in two configurations. One is a kit that you assemble and then install the motor, servos and such. The other is a preassembled combo with servos and motor already installed. The latter is the version that will be covered here, with a 28/30 (1015 Kv) outrunner motor and four micro servos that come already installed in the aircraft. As a minimum, use a 25amp continuous-current electronic
speed controller (ESC), a 1800-mAh battery and a four-channel receiver to complete the flight system.
IN FLIGHT
On its maiden flight, and with its flight controls set to neutral, the Ogar flew right out of my hand straight and level. It then proceeded to climb at about 45 degrees, without even a hint of stalling. At altitude I leveled the airplane and pulled the power back. The blade folded and the model started to glide. The glider’s control surfaces provide more than ample response, so you’ll find that it maneuvers well. When motor power is applied the control response is crisp but not violent or prone to excess. Once the glider is at altitude and the motor is turned off, you’ll
want to trim the Ogar’s elevator for soaring flight. My Ogar setup required about half the transmitter’s up elevator trim to give it a good lift-over-drag (L/D) glide. After a few flights, I replaced the 2100-mAh battery with a 1800-mAh battery. Making that change moved the center of gravity (CG) back another quarter of an inch from where the manual stated it should be on the
Hook a thermal and the Ogar will climb out well. Just power up to altitude and then shut off the motor for some nice, relaxed soaring.
These are all the components that come in the SZD-45 combo kit. You won’t need to buy much of anything except a battery pack.
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RC SPORT FLYER — SEPTEMBER 2012
THE WINGS MAKER SZD-45 OGAR wing. At the new CG setting, the Ogar climbed under full power at a steady 30 degrees, and when the motor stopped no up trim was required for soaring, which made for a cleaner aircraft. Also, with the 1800-mAh battery the model is lighter weight, so the Ogar The wings and carbon wing rod come protected in a very soars better too. nicely made wing bag. A foam divider protects the wings from each other when they are in the bag. I like that it has a Furthermore, the handle too—a great addition to the kit! Ogar flies at a lower airspeed for soaring, with its flight controls being smoother but still providing more than adequate control. What I like about this model is
When the lift is light, doing flybys on the slope is truly a fun experience, with the glider in close, going slow and flying smoothly.
With the wings mounted on the fuselage, you’ll sight on the horizontal stabilizer to determine if it is parallel to the wing before gluing it in place.
A receiver, ESC and battery are all that is required to complete the flight pack. I used an AR7000 receiver, 40-amp ESC and 2100-mAh LiPo for mine.
that the Ogar’s design lines makes it easy to discern at a distance, which is great when you’re flying it in a thermal. Landings are smooth with the Ogar gliding in, wings level, almost landing itself. The full-scale SZD-45 has wingtip wheeled pogos that keep its wingtips off the ground and provide maneuvering ability. The Wings Maker has provided a cradle to keep the Ogar’s wings level during take off. Because of its small wheels, however, the launching cradle requires a fairly smooth surface to roll off, so I suggest you use it for takeoffs from pavement. If the pavement is too rough, the wheels will not roll well, which will cause it to nose over. This is a very enjoyable aircraft to fly because it has a pilot feel that is smooth and steady, but it also has plenty of power and control
You’ll use the hook tool provided in the kit to pull the rubber band through the fuselage. It then fastens to the opposite wing.
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