World's Most In-Depth RC Aircraft Magazine RC Sport Flyer Magazine
Raptor G4 Test pg 70
E-flite Hyper Taxi
Beast AS3X
EXCLUSIVE Gee Bee AS3X
mig 15 AS3X
Thunder Tiger Raptor G4
TP1430C Charger
Hyper
AeroWorks Extra
rc-sf.com
USA & Canada $6.49
june 2012 VOLUME 17 ISSUE 04
June 2012
Flight Report pg 102
Taxi
We rip into the new O.S. Engines GT33 gas-powered engine to give you the inside story. Pg 36
Get our complete test report on how the new Thunder Power TP 1430C charger really works. Pg 84
Thunder TigerÂŽ Raptor G4 Flight Report pg 70
See what you can expect in performance from the new and improved Thunder Tiger Raptor G4 3D glow-powered RC helicopter.
pg 94 E-flite UMX Gee Bee R2 AS3X
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RC SPORT FLYER — june 2012
DEPARTMENTS 12
leading edge
14
Hot Products
112
advertiser index
113
Mystery airplane
O.S. Engines Gt33 See how this new, well-mannered two-stroke gas-powered engine performs in our tests. By Mike Hoffmeister
46
wings part III This month Jeff shows you how to complete a set of wings in your next model airplane kit! By Jeff Troy
62
pg 90 E-flite UMX Beast 3D AS3X
test
36
Build
feature
RES Gliders Learn how much fun you can have with a new rudder, elevator and spoiler glider. By Jim Tolpin
June 2012
column
56
Taking spoilers apart We explain step by step just how easy it is to take apart the spoilers built into your model’s wings. By Wil Byers
70
TT RaptoR G4 Marcus gives you a 3D pilot’s perspective on how the new Thunder Tiger Raptor G4 flies. By Marcus Hubbard
76
Aeroworks 260 Read this in-depth report to see how the new Freestyle Extra 260 QB really performs. By Richard Kuns
84
TP 1430C Charger Here is a compact and portable charger that is feature filled. See what we found in our tests. By Daniel Holman
90
Beast, Gee Bee, Sbach Read all the details on how these exciting UMX airplanes fly both indoors and out. By Daniel Holman
102
E-flite hyper taxi When you take a ride in this taxi you’ll want more. Learn why this model makes for tons of fun. By Daniel Holman
reviews
pg 102 E-flite Hyper Taxi AS3X RC-SF.COM
7
300XF BNF
E Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com
quipped for aggressive 3D, the nimble Blade® 300 X BNF packs big 3D performance into a compact 300-size frame that’s small enough to fly in many indoor spaces. At the heart of its amazing performance is the Spektrum™ AR7200BX Flybarless Control System with integrated BeastX™ technology. This control system
Specifications Swashplate
120oCCPM
Rotor diameter
21.7 in. (550 mm)
Length
20.1 in. (510 mm)
Height
7.7 in. (195 mm)
Weight
17.3 oz (491 g)
Price
$399.99
makes amazing precision and agility possible, and perfectly complements the impressive power of the E-flite® 320H, 4500-Kv brushless motor and high-output 3S 30C LiPo battery. The Blade 300 X BNF has even been flight tested and had its rotors balanced at the factory. You simply charge the battery, bind the receiver to your DSM2®- or DSMX®transmitter and fly.
Blade 500 3D RTF and BNF Basic
Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com
T
he Blade® 500 3D is designed to give intermediate-to-experienced RC pilots the most powerful, ready-to-fly Blade experience available. The helicopter comes equipped for aggressive 3D, right out of the box with an E-flite® 520H 1320-Kv brushless motor and a high-output 6S 30C LiPo battery. This
Specifications Rotor diameter
38.2 in. (893 mm)
Length
33.5 in. (850 mm)
Height
11.8 in. (300 mm)
Weight
3.88 lb (1.76 g)
Price
RTF: $849.99, BNF Basic: $599.99
awesome power is complemented by the kind of state-of-the-art electronics and engineering you would expect to find in more expensive kits that take hours to build. It’s even been flight tested and had its rotors balanced at the factory. The Bind-N-Fly® Basic version is ideal for pilots who already have a compatible DSM2®/DSMX® transmitter and the necessary support equipment.
Ex-Wife T-Shirts
Tarvin Model Products 44854 Cumberland Avenue Chilliwack, BC V2R 3H7 Canada 604-858-9867 tarvinmodelproducts.com
I
n celebration of the new Tarvin Model Product (TMP), formerly Reid’s Model Products, a collection of one-liner T-Shirts has been added to the company offerings. • TMP Logo on the Front • Why She’s the Ex on the Back • Brand-Name Shirts
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RC SPORT FLYER — june 2012
These shirts are sure to get raise an eyebrow at the flying field, fly-ins, air shows and other ex-appropriate events. If you like, TMP can easily replace the word “Airplanes” with anything else that your ex-wives hate: Cars, Golf, Boats, Sports, you name it— at no extra charge. Shirts are good quality brand name only, and prices are: Price $14 (S, M, L, XL)
$18.50 (XXL, XXXL) $5 postage for the first shirt $2.50 for each additional shirt PayPal to tarvin@shaw.ca
HOT PRODUCTS
Heli 600 Brushless Outrunner Motor, 1130 Kv
Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com
I
deal for sport and 3D flying, the Heli 600 Brushless Outrunner Motor is one of the new E-flite® motors specially designed for
maximum efficiency and high performance. Available in sizes to suit 450-, 550-, 600- and 700-class helicopters, each of these motors is constructed with high-quality sealed bearings, a hardened main shaft and an integrated airflow cooling system to promote long life.
Specifications
• Maximum-efficiency motor for 550- to 600-class helicopters • Dual mounting dystem • Internal cooling design
Voltage
22.2 V
RPM/V
1130 Kv
Resistance
0.0102 Ohms
Idle current
3.2 A at 10 V
Continuous current
95 A
Maximum burst current
120 A
Cells
6S LiPo
Recommended ESC
120 A
Price
$159.99
• Quiet and lightweight • Slotted, 8-pole design • 4-mm Gold Bullet connectors These extremely quiet and lightweight motors feature two hardware mount locations to fit a wide selection of helicopters and make installation easy.
Atlanta Hobby’s New Rock N Roll Series
Atlanta Hobby 6150 Parkway North Drive Cumming, GA 30040 Phone: 678-513-4450 atlantahobby.com
• • • • • •
45-in. wingspans CNC-cut 9-mm Depron Carbon spars Plywood motor mounts Optional landing gear Price $79.99 each
Each of these four easy-to-assemble kits requires a motor and speed controller, servos, transmitter, receiver and a LiPo battery.
A
tlanta Hobby has released a new line of Made-In-the-USA aircraft. These models are the first to feature limited-edition artwork by Frank Ruopoli, renowned Charleston, South Carolina artist and musician. The Atlanta Hobby Rock N Roll series consists of four new aircraft, Full Metal Yakket (Yak), Running With The Devil (Edge 540), Stairway To Heaven (Edge 540) and the RCRN Sbach 342 named after the RC Radio Network. • Ultimate performance
RC-SF.COM
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BY Mike Hoffmeister
GT33 Two-Stroke 33-cc Engine A New,Well-Mannered and Strong Performer
O
.S. Engines has been a leading model aircraft engine company for years. Their engines are well known for quality, reliability, ease of tuning and innovation. Following on the heels of the GT55, O.S. is now introducing their second gasolinepowered engine, the GT33. This comes at a time when smaller (sub 50-cc size) gas engines are growing in popularity. Notable changes to the GT33 versus the GT55 include a rear-mounted
This right side view gives a good overall perspective of the engine. Note how compact the front of the engine is, and the usual top-notch quality of the castings.
The O.S. GT55 engine comes packed well in an attractive, high-quality box and includes instructions, decals, ignition system, muffler, propeller washer/nuts, spark plug and exhaust gasket.
carburetor and reed-valve induction system, plus the muffler is included in the package. O.S. claims that the engine produces 10 percent more power than other engines in its class. Here is what I found during my testing and some conclusions.
Why Buy
The 30-cc-size airplanes are probably the fastest-growing class of aircraft today. An engine of this size is also suitable to re-engine many larger glow-powered models, which is creating a huge demand for quality engines in this class. O.S.’s GT33 is also based on their vast experience over decades 36
RC SPORT FLYER — June 2012
O.S. GT33 Two-Stroke 33-cc Engine linkage proved to be quite easy to rig because the rear-mounted carburetor and preinstalled control horn on the carburetor butterfly shaft were out in the open. Once the engine was mounted on the stand and wires/fuel lines secured, I filled the test stand’s tank and started the engine. The first propeller used was an APC 18×8, which O.S. lists as the smallest suitable propeller for the engine, and also the recommended propeller for break-in. A fresh gallon of regular unleaded gasoline was mixed with Royal Purple synthetic two-cycle oil at a 40to-1 ratio. The O.S. manual has detailed instructions on oil mix ratios for break-in plus general use after breakin, so it’s important to follow the manual. I have had good results using Royal Purple oil with other gas engines, so it was used for this test as well. The manual has detailed instructions for starting the engine either with an electric starter or flipping it with a stick by hand. Most of the
This front view shows the engine’s ample cooling fin area and displays the exceptional engineering and finish that O.S. has done to keep this engine narrow and easy to package.
of building top-notch RC engines, so they have extensive engineering knowledge from their GT55. The GT33 is powerful, very lightweight, easy to tune and compact, and the package includes a muffler. Finally, O.S. backs up the GT55 with a two-year warranty.
The Walbro carburetor and reed valve block fit nicely into the engine’s backplate. Also, O.S. did an excellent job of integrating the engine’s mounting tabs into its backplate.
The prominent O.S. logos on both the cylinder head and main crankcase casting are a nice touch. Note the rear-intake carburetor location vs. the front intake of the GT55.
Break-In and Performance Testing The first step in testing the engine was to adapt the GT33 to the computer-controlled thrust test stand. This turned out to be a simple task because the mounting pattern is nearly identical to other engines I’ve tested, so I didn’t need to make a new adapter. Also, the throttle
RC-SF.COM
37
By Jeff Troy
Wings, Part III Completing the Dallaire Sportster Wings
1
Begin the wing joining process by pinning down the right wing half. Because the Dallaire Sportster wing has an undercamber airfoil, the spars do not sit flat against the bench, so the forward side of the wing panel is weighted with lead shot in a plastic bottle. Stacks of old modeling magazines are also useful for this.
2
Plywood dihedral braces are installed on the rearward face of the leading edge and the forward faces of the main spars and drag spars. I use Bob Smith Industries (BSI) 30-minute epoxy for all his center-section joints. The parts are held with as many clamps as can be fitted into the area and left to cure overnight.
With the clamps removed, the fit of the dihedral braces is clearly visible in the wing’s center section.
3
O
ne of the most important bits of knowledge I can pass along is something you can keep with you as long as you choose to stay in the hobby, and here it is: there’s just no such thing as a “hard” model to build. Really? Really! No matter how intimidating a box of sticks and sheets of wood appears and regardless of how intimidating the artwork on a set of advanced modeling plans may strike you, every model airplane—from the most basic trainer to the most intricately detailed scale replicas—follows the same building procedure: step 1 comes just before step 2, which always precedes step 3 and comes immediately before step 4, 46
RC SPORT FLYER — June 2012
The center rib must be cut into three pieces to fit between the leading edge, spars and trailing edge.
and so on until you run out of steps and the project is completed. The number of steps to completing a complex project is surely greater than it would be for a basic trainer, but regardless of number, the rule always applies: one step follows the previous step, followed by all the remaining steps in sequence until there are simply no more steps left to perform. In addition to the five models I’m building for you under the camera for RC Sport Flyer, I am constantly working on no fewer than 10 other models at any given time. Right now, one of them is an all-original, new-inbox, Carl Goldberg Models Eaglet 50 that was given to me back in the ’90s
4 while doing some consulting work for Model Rectifier Corporation (MRC). The Eaglet had always been one of my favorite trainers to recommend for beginners because of its rugged construction, interlocking design and outstanding instruction manual. I bring the Eaglet up here to demonstrate— by contrast—how the difference between simplicity and complexity is not always apparent from just a cruise through a model’s instructions. The Eaglet 50 comes with a 32page instruction manual, with each of the 76 steps in its four primary sections covered in photographs and text with checkboxes to mark when each step has been completed.
Wings, Part III When sawing the center rib, or any part for that matter, always work over a scrap of wood to make the cleanest cut and prevent damaging your work surface. I use various lengths of scrap pine.
Aligning the center rib is easy. Just center each section on the center joints of the spars, leading edges and trailing edges.
5
6
Build the wingtips up with scrap balsa to prevent dimples and puckers in the covering when it is applied. Here, a length of 1/4-in. balsa is being cut to fit over the wingtip between the main and drag spar extensions. After rough cutting with the Zona kerf saw, the edges of the part are bar sanded for a perfect fit.
7
8
This image shows all three filler pieces installed over the top side of the wingtip. The same procedure is repeated for the opposite tip and for both wingtips on the underside of the wing.
Begin preparing for the center-section sheeting by installing the balsa gussets on either side of the trailing edge of the center rib.
9 There are also additional sections toward the rear of the manual that deal with covering, hinging, balance, radio installation and setup, safety precautions and even basic lessons on the principles of flight. Of the Eaglet manual’s many steps, no less than 34 are for building the wing. By my last installment of Building Model Airplanes (RC Sport Flyer May 2012), I’d constructed four wings, three for the Airplane Works kit of the 1/4-scale Fokker Dr.1 triplane designed by Nick Ziroli, and the right and left panels that will be the wing of the 108-in. Dallaire Sportster old-timer, as kitted by Bill Shive of Penn Valley Hobby Center. These two models are far more complex than the Eaglet, yet their instructional materials were almost nonexistent. The Airplane Works (no longer in
10
business) kit came with all the wood and metal parts needed to build the airplane, and I got the plans direct from Ziroli Plans (ziroliplans.com). A few construction notes are on the plans, but no instructions are provided with the kit. The logical assumption is that if you’re ready to build a 1/4-scale replica of a World War I fighter aircraft with three wings, you’d probably have little or no use for a manual with checkboxes to show you how to glue wing ribs over a spar. Similarly, the Dallaire Sportster is very light on guidance. Again, the assumption is that the purchaser is experienced and already knows how to build a model airplane. In contrast to the 34 intricately described steps in building the Eaglet 50 wing, the Dallaire “manual” is really just a few stapled-together, typewritten sheets
of paper that give you just six steps: 1) pin the trailing edge, 2) position the spar, 3) pin the spar, 4) install the ribs, 5) install the leading edge and 6) install the rest of the ribs. Where the Eaglet 50 gives you five pages of instructions on wing assembly, the Dallaire’s six steps are all contained in just one half of the first paragraph on the opening page of the instruction sheets. If I were a beginner and all I had done was peruse the instructions for these three models, I might have gotten the impression that the Ziroli triplane was the simplest of the three, with the Dallaire Sportster being the middle-of-the-complexity-road project, and the Eaglet 50 noted as the most complex. In fact, just the opposite is true. While one step following the next step is the rule for completing model airplane projects, in many cases RC-SF.COM
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BY Wil Byers
Soaring How to Take Your Glider’s Spoilers Apart
T
his month I want to explain how I solved a problem that you might very well face when your shiny, new, all-composite glider/ sailplane arrives from your seller. It is the case of the glider having factoryinstalled spoilers but no servo linkage connected to the spoiler. More specifically, the problem is when you cannot reach inside the wing to connect the servos’ linkages to the spoiler’s control horn. I expect this problem with factory-installed spoilers will soon disappear as manufacturers start installing the new spoilers that MAXX Products offers, which have the servo integrated into the spoiler mechanism. For now, however, you may also be faced with how to connect the spoiler’s control horn to the servo, as I had with my new 33-percent-scale Fox glider that I bought a couple months ago. So, here is how I took the glider’s spoilers apart, connected the servo’s linkage, assembled the spoilers again and then installed the servos into the Fox’s wing.
Disassembly
The first step in connecting the spoiler’s linkage to the servo’s linkage is to get the spoiler open. That sounds pretty straightforward, and it is, but if you haven’t done it before you could either damage the spoiler or possibly damage the wing. How I got the spoiler to open on my Fox was to turn the wing over so that the spoiler bay was on the bottom. If you elevate the tip of the wing at about a 30-degree angle it will be even better because the linkage on the spoiler is configured such that you pull the control horn to open the spoiler. So, a little gravity helps. Then you just gently lift on the spoiler cap. You must pull the spoiler cap toward the wing, which is in the direction that the spoiler’s dog-bones travel to open the spoiler. If the spoilers do not want to open, do NOT force 56
RC SPORT FLYER — June 2012
01
Here I use a mixing stick to hold the spoilers open. Notice that you can see how the spoilers are actually made from two smaller spoilers that join in the middle.
them—just pull gently. On one of the wings of the Fox, I found that a little light shaking of the wing started the spoiler’s opening. Then it was simply a matter of pulling the spoiler’s cap up slowly and towards the root of the wing.
Photo 01
Once the spoiler was opened, I grabbed a Great Planes mixing stick and put it under the spoiler as is shown in photo 01. The stick will keep the spoilers from inadvertently closing on you, which can be troublesome if it happens during the next few steps.
Photo 02
As you will see in photo 02, I removed the hinge pins on the spoiler’s top gate as a way to remove the top of the spoilers with its cap strip. You can also pop the spoiler tops out of the spoiler’s dog-bones, but you must be very careful that you do NOT separate the aluminum spoiler top from its fiberglass cap
strip. I prefer removing the hinge pins, but I would caution you that you must be careful so that you don’t tear the plastic tops off the pins. They can be a little difficult to remove, so go slowly. Also, it is best if you use a piece of wood sharpened like the face of a screwdriver to get under the pin’s head as a way to initiate its removal. Note that each hinge pin has a pin mate that pushes in from the back side of the spoiler. Be careful not to lose these. They must be pushed back into the hinge pin during reassembly of the spoilers.
Photo 03
Once the spoilers are open and its top is removed you’ll want to also remove the spoiler gate that sits below the cap when the spoiler is open. I recommend you lay all the parts and pieces of the spoiler on the bench just as they come out of the spoiler, so that you will know instantly how to reassemble the spoiler when you’ve installed the linkage. Note that the cutout in the
Soaring come out of the spoiler housing.
Photo 06
02
You’ll want to remove the dog-bone’s hinge pin as a way to remove the top of the spoiler. Be careful that you do not lose or damage any of the pins.
spoiler cap and gate must be installed properly so that they drop over the bog-bone hinges when the spoilers are closed.
As you can see in the accompanying photo, the music wire linkage gets inserted into the top hole of the brass pull linkage of the first spoiler.
Photo 04
Photo 05
I also recommend that you do a close-up inspection of how the linkage to the second spoiler gate attaches to the first. In the case of the Fox they joined two spoilers to make one large spoiler, so an additional music wire linkage is required to pull the second spoiler open in synchronization with the first.
03
Note that the plastic dog-bone of the spoiler simply snaps onto its hinge point, which runs through the bottom of the spoiler housing. Get out your magnifying glass if you need to, but do a close examination of how this dog-bone connects to the brass hinge pin, so you will understand how it must come off the pin so it can
This is what the spoilers will look like when you have them taken apart. I laid them out in the order they came apart.
04
Now in this step things can get tricky! You can ruin your spoiler if you are not careful, so use caution doing what I’m explaining. What I did was get a screwdriver (you might want a “Screwdriver” afterwards) that fits into the spoiler housing—you don’t want one too big or too small, so pick one that is properly sized. Pull the dog-bone up into its opened position. Put the screwdriver’s blade against the bottom of the dog-bone where it captures the brass hinge pin. Then gently but firmly tap the end of the screwdriver with your hand. If you’ve done it right the dog-bone should pop off its hinge pin and be free to be removed from the housing. Again, use a gentle touch; a bigger “hammer” will not make this job easier!
Photo 07
I suggest you study this photo of the dog-bone. As you can see, the bone is designed to snap onto the lower hinge pin of the spoiler housing and to the top hinge pin of the spoiler’s aluminum cap. Note too, that there are two little plastic tits that protrude on the backside of the dog-bone. You absolutely do NOT want to break them off; you will be in dire need of another dog-bone if you do. So, again, proceed with caution as you remove the parts, and do not force any part out or in.
This shot is looking down into the spoiler’s housing. What you see is the control horn and the linkage to the second dog-bone.
RC-SF.COM
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BY Jim Tolpin
Rudder, Elevator, Spoiler Gliders The Allure of RES
R
ES does not stand for Really Easy Soaring! RES stands for the primary—and the only—controls you have for this type of model sailplane: the rudder, the elevator and the spoilers. So if there are so few controls, why isn’t RES really easy soaring? Well, the main reason is just that; there are so few controls of the flying surfaces— especially the lack of ailerons that provide quick and efficient banking into turns. The bottom line is that these models tend to feel, and actually be, rather sluggish in comparison with aileron-equipped models. Longtime model soaring pilot and national contest winner Skip Miller pointed out to me that while the actual pilot load is relatively low with RES compared to flying a molded, fast and slippery, “full-house” sailplane, “You really need to lead, and not follow, these gliders around the sky, as the lag time between control input and response is significant.” In My Topaz S-V2 RES glider climbs exceedingly well. I would not recommend it as a starter model, but once you are comfortable with a model like an Oly II, this is a great choice.
This photos shows me connecting the tow line to the nose of my Olympic II. The Oly II is a great airplane for learning to fly rudder, elevator and spoiler gliders.
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RC SPORT FLYER — June 2012
You can use a bit of masking tape to do duty as a tow-release mechanism. When you get the model to altitude, you just turn hard away from the tug, and the line comes free.
Rudder, Elevator, Spoiler other words, while they might fly comparatively slowly and don’t demand constant attention to the sticks, they do demand that you input control almost before you need it to get the model turning or otherwise oriented in the most appropriate way. This can be especially critical in a crosswind landing. I’ll have more to In this photo I’m getting set to do an aerotow launch Here is the Oly II during the tow. Notice that the say about the challenges with my Oly II 100-in.-wingspan glider. You can have glider is riding a bit higher in the air than the tow lots of fun flying RES, and it takes a lot less money to airplane, so it will not take long for my glider to be at of flying RES later in the fly one these than a scale glider. release altitude. article. That is not to say, that bring the airframe—and thus the introduction of spoilers to help though, that flying RES is stressful. In the wingloading—down to previously get the models down out of booming fact, as Skip also emphatically pointed unheard-of values. While I’ve always thermals and to help control the final out, “The fun quotient is very high enjoyed flying the Oly, after just the approach for a contest-worthy, bullswith these models,” and Joe Nave, first flight of my Topaz S-V2, I realized eye landing. holder of three U.S. National Electric I had stepped up to an essentially new My own roots in model soaring Sailplane records, told me that he category of polyhedral sailplanes. This go back, I suppose, to the mid-1950s flies RES “to relax and to study has renewed and reinvigorated my when I delighted in flinging small, thermal activity.” I certainly have to interest in RES and has inspired me to 10-cent balsa gliders into the sky. agree with both those statements. encourage others to consider getting (And yes, I did so under the auspices Instead of being primarily focused on into this niche of RC soaring. of the AMA, having joined in about the airplane, you tend to be more 1955.) It wasn’t until the early 80s, focused on the air and the beauty however, that I got into radio control of flight itself. With RES it becomes RES Is Not soaring with a Gentle Lady. I soon an engrossing dance of nudging the • The setup and controls aren’t “graduated” to a larger, spoilermodel into the right place at the right complicated: equipped sailplane for flying at my time, letting it ride the air currents In this increasingly complex local mountain slopes—the 100-in.with a minimal amount of control world, it’s nice to enjoy a hobby wingspan Olympus II. While I continue interference and just watching the that features simplicity at the to fly the Oly today, I recently decided sun glow through its transparent wing same time that it offers significant to purchase a larger, state-of-the-art covering as the model soars high challenges. With a RES ship, the RES sailplane. These models utilize overhead. setup of its transmitter to control the latest advances in airfoils and are The roots of RES gliders in model the flight surfaces is much easier constructed from composite materials history can probably be traced as an than with models equipped evolution from the classic tow-line, free-flight gliders of the 30s and 40s. From these evolved the simplest radio-controlled, “bent-wing” gliders such as Carl Goldberg’s Gentle Lady or Dave Thornburg’s “Bird of Time.” These models quickly became popular among glider pilots as soon as RC equipment became affordable and widely available. As the models got bigger (100-in. wingspan and larger), folks found themselves flying them higher and farther away, as well as challenging themselves to land the airplanes with great accuracy. Thus My thirty-year-old Oly II still flies the skies! Here it alights back on earth while its tow airplane lands in the background. Note its relatively small spoilers compared with those of the Topaz. RC-SF.COM
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BY Marcus Hubbard
Raptor G4 Let this Raptor Make a Kill on Your Competition!
L
ast month’s article on the Thunder Tiger Raptor G4 was an overview of what came in the kit, recommendations for the components needed to build the helicopter and a build report with some advice on assembling this top-of-the-line helicopter. As I told you, Thunder Tiger has once again established itself as the helicopter manufacturer to beat in the highly competitive RC 3D helicopter market. And, with their innovative Quick-Calibration system, Thunder Tiger has made the Raptor G4 the quickest and easiest highperformance helicopter to set up, without exception.
Flight Review
Finally the helicopter was complete and the day had come to get the Raptor G4 airborne. I was full of anticipation for what this machine promised in performance! At the airfield I performed the normal radio system range check to make sure the Futaba S-Bus system
was operating optimally with my helicopter’s receiver and its antenna placement. Next, the fuel tank was filled with O’Donnell 30-percent nitromethane helicopter fuel. Remember to remove the pressure line plug, else you will cover yourself with fuel once you remove the tank’s fill line. I made sure that all three needle valves on the carburetor were set to the manufacturer’s recommendations too. Then, with the Futaba 8FG Super transmitter turned on, I turned on the Raptor’s receiver and waited for the CGY750 to power up and sync with the transmitter, which is indicated by the tail’s and then the swashplate’s movement. This was followed by a check of the movement of the swash and tail servo by moving the sticks on the transmitter to confirm that everything was working properly—a practice that must be performed prior to every flight. The Raptor G4 is fitted with a SwitchGlo™ system, so there was no need for a separate glow plug igniter.
Here I am posing with my new Thunder Tiger Raptor G4 and a Futaba 8FG Super transmitter on top of the hill where these photos were shot.
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RC SPORT FLYER — June 2012
Thunder Tiger® Raptor G4 Notice the relationship of the landing skids to the angle of the tail boom. This allows the tail rotor to be elevated for landings.
With a SwitchGlo system, all you do is flip a switch on the transmitter that is assigned to it, and the glow plug goes “hot” for 20 seconds. After inserting the starter wand through the hole in the top of the canopy, the motor was spun, and in a snap the motor came to life. Note that you must hold the main blades’ grips securely during a start just in case something goes wrong. The last thing you want is for the main rotor blades to spin around and hit you.
The engine idle had been set a little high, but a few clicks on the throttle trim lowered the engine’s rpm setting. Finally the time came for liftoff. I slowly increased power, and as planned the governor activated approximately at a third throttle stick. I set the normal range for this setting at 1750 rpm, Idle Up One at 1850 rpm and Idle Up Two at 1950 for all-out 3D performance from the OS 91 HZ-R Speed 3D engine.
In this beautiful inverted shot, you can see how easy it is to see the white on the Mavrikk 690 G5 Pro flybarless main blades.
RC-SF.COM
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BY Richard Kuns
Freestyle Extra 260 QB-L ARF A Popular Scale Aerobatic Airplane is Now Electric Powered
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he Extra 260 was the second aerobatic airplane designed by the famous Walter Extra of the Extra Flugzeugbau Company in Germany. It was built with an amalgam of technologies—wood wings, carbon fiber ailerons, steel-tube fuselage and composite tail and landing gear. Serial number 001 was sold to Patty Wagstaff, who flew it to a win at the United States National Aerobatic Champion in 1991. She also won a second national championship in the Extra 260. It was eventually donated to the Smithsonian National Air & Space Museum, where it remains on display. With this history, it’s no wonder that the Extra 260 is a popular
The Extra 260 easily crabs in flight. You just need to add a touch of rudder to give it a bit of cross control. It will hang there.
aerobatic RC airplane. In fact, Aeroworks offers eight in its catalog. The 260s range in size from a 37-in. profile model to a 122-in. giant-scale airplane. For this airplane, Rocco Mariani and company have added a new twist to the Extra 260 with a super-lightweight, freestyle electric-powered airplane in the popular 50-in. size—complete with side-force generators.
What You Get
The airplane comes packed in a sturdy kit box with cardboard sheets and partitions separating the various pieces. For additional protection, everything is wrapped in plastic bags. The Extra is constructed of balsa and lit plywood and comes covered in UltraCote®. The kit is very complete, including carbon fiber landing gear and wing tube, removable wings, mounted canopy, fiberglass wheel pants and cowl and all the hardware. It also includes a roll of spare covering and colorful decals.
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Aeroworks Freestyle Extra 260 QB-L ARF The airplane’s fuselage structure takes advantage of laser cutting to remove extra weight, yet it remains quite stiff and strong. There are several suitable power systems mentioned in the manual with some variation in weight, power, runtime and cost. You should carefully investigate The lightweight structure is beautiful, as you see The stabilizer has a locator dowel centered in its these options before here in the fuselage. It is almost a shame to cover the leading edge. This fits into a hole in the fuselage airframe with the cowl and canopy. Despite all the centering the front of the stabilizer. Simple making your choices. As cut-out areas in the laser-cut structure, the model measurements of the trailing edge are all that’s always, Aeroworks’ staff is very stiff and strong. The firewall has factoryneeded for a perfect fit. Note that there is no is available to help. installed blind nuts. covering on the center of the stabilizer. My Extra 260’s hardware came packed in small plastic bags, sorted by function. This greatly speeds assembly since no hardware sorting is required. Control linkages utilize ball links, carbon fiber control horns, doublethreaded push rods and pull-pull cables for the rudder. Laser-cut 1/8-in. motor spacers make a The roomy fuselage interior has platforms for both Plywood spacers are included that will work quick job of setting the the battery and receiver. Because a small amount for most motor mounts. Here five are utilized of tail weight was required for balance, the flight to correctly position the Rimfire 32. The motor right firewall to spinner battery was installed against the wing tube. The includes the rear mounting bracket and the back plate distance. The rudder is operated via a cable pull-pull system. propeller adaptor. canopy and cowl are premounted as well. All of these factors The Rimfire 32 motor and Silver Series ESC provide plenty of thrust for 3D maneuvers. The contribute to the Quick Futaba seven-channel FASST receiver is powered by the Dimension Engineering ESC and drives HiTec servos. Flight power comes from a Sky LiPo 2650-mAh 4S pack. Build feature of this airplane.
Kit Contents
• Airframe parts: fuselage, wings, side-force generators, rudder, stabilizer w/ elevators, cowl and canopy • Carbon fiber landing gear w/ painted fiberglass pants, carbon fiber wing tube, tail wheel assembly and foam tires • Hardware packages, linkages, spinner, wrap straps • Photo-illustrated instruction manual • Micro CG Buddy and throw meters • Decal sheet
Needed to Complete
The following list shows the items you’ll needed to complete the model, RC-SF.COM
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BY Daniel Holman
1430C Charger New Design, New Programming, Better Performance!
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s my hangar filled with airplanes, I found myself in need of a new battery charger. A search of a few magazines and the Internet got me looking at the new Thunder Power TP1430 C. Then one landed in my lap by way of a review project from this magazine, which couldn’t have come at a better time. As my new Thunder Power TP1430C charger came out of its package, it just screamed, “quality!” With its beautiful anodized aluminum case, dual cooling fans, easy-to-use button controls and a large, bright blue, backlit liquid crystal display (LCD) screen, this new charger, capable of charging multi-chemistrytype batteries, really stands out from many others. The quality starts with everything you get in the package. It includes leads to the power supply that come with bullet connectors soldered to the wires, as well as a set of alligator clips that let you connect the charger to any 12-V
This is what the TP1430C looks like when it is set up and ready to start charging a battery pack. The system is easy to use and affordable to buy.
car-type battery or gel cell. Thunder Power also includes a set of banana plugs that are soldered to positive and negative leads so that you can make a set of custom leads for your charging application. There is also a connector board that mates to many of the typical battery balance leads. It is one of the largest that I’ve seen, and will mate to up to a 14-cell pack. This balance board comes with Thunder Power and JST-XH style balance connectors, so the user can charge almost any battery type, without changing the connector. Suffice it to say, my first impressions of the TP1430C were good even before applying power to the unit.
It Can Do
One of things that I like about the new Thunder Power TP 1430C charger is its adaptability and versatility. The TP1430C is designed to offer input power options and customizable program settings, as well as the ability to charge almost Here is everything you get when you buy a TP1430C. All you’ll need to add are the connectors for the battery type you want to charge and a DC supply.
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Thunder Power 1430C Charger This screen shows you that the unit is charging a 6S LiPo battery pack at the rate of 3.6 A, with the balance circuit on.
The same setup is stored in memory location 01, so all you need to do is select that location to initiate a charge for your model’s pack.
This screen shows you that the unit is charging a 14S LiPo battery pack at the rate of 4.0 A, with the balance circuit on.
Here you see that the unit is charging a 3S LiPo battery pack at the rate of 1.32 A, with the balance circuit on.
If you need to charge NiCd packs the 1430C will do it. Here it is charging at 2.8 A with a delta peak of 06 mV.
You can even charge lead acid packs with the 1430C. In this case it is charging at the rate of 4.6 A.
any battery chemistry and capacity at many different rates. The most widely used battery chemistry in the RC industry today is Lithium Polymer (LiPo). The TP1430C is capable of charging up to a 14cell series pack, and it can deliver a whopping 30 A of current for when your packs need a fast charge. Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) battery packs of this size and capacity can also be charged with these settings and rates. Lithium Ion Phosphate (LiFe) batteries have become very popular among giant-scale modelers for their ability to accept a fast charge at rates of up to 10C (10 times their rated capacity). This is a significant advantage over other types of Lithium packs. However, this rate of charge is only possible with a limited number of charger brands. One of
them is the new TP1430C! Charging a 2300-mAh 2S A123 pack at 10C (23 A) is not a problem for the TP1430C, and the charge can be done in under 10 minutes. The TP1430C also has the ability to charge LiFe/A123-type batteries of up to 14S. For those of you who still use Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) and Nickel Metal Cadmium (NiCd) battery packs in your airplanes, helicopters and gliders, the TP1430C can charge them too. It is capable of charging packs that range in size from 1- to 40-cell NiCd or NiMH packs. Topping off the TP1430C features, it will also charge any Lead Acid (PB) battery that has a rating of 6- to 48-V, and it will do so easily! One of many features that makes this charger so versatile is that it has the circuitry built in to handle
input voltages of 12–36 V DC. Many chargers are rated at only 11–15 V input, which limits their power sources considerably. Alternately, the TP1430C has the ability to get power from a 12- to 24-V power supply, a battery, a battery bank or any DC power source that delivers 12–36 V. You do not need to worry about having the perfect power source.
In Operation
After connecting my TP1430C to my power supply, the charger instantly came to life, lighting up the brilliant blue, backlit LCD screen and annunciating with a series of beeps. The four controls buttons are very simple to use and work similarly to most LiPo chargers. Among many of the outstanding features that Thunder Power’s RC-SF.COM
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BY Daniel Holman
Beast 3D, Gee Bee & Sbach An Ultra-Micro Trio To Fly For!
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he problem with Horizon Hobby’s Ultra Micro Extreme (UMX) line of airplanes is that once you get one, you want them all. This is a dilemma that I’ve found myself facing. Just when I thought my cravings couldn’t get any worse, E-flite introduces their new AS3X system. It transforms their superbflying UMX Beast biplane into an airplane that gives you the piloting experience that you would typically experience in a large-scale airplane, but the Beast costs thousands of dollars less. E-flite then adds to their product line with the UMX Gee Bee, a classic racer notorious for its unstable flight characteristics. With the AS3X system installed, the Gee Bee comes to life in a gymnasium, or even outdoors, as a stable, easy-to-fly
Here I am flying my UMX Beast 3D basic, which comes with a factory-installed AS3X system. It makes this little model feel like it is a giant-scale 3D machine.
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pylon racer. The third airplane in this combination review, the UMX Sbach 342, is an amazing aerobat, capable of precision and freestyle aerobatics indoors or out.
Out of the box
The UMX Beast 3D Basic, Gee Bee R2 and Sbach 342 all come out of their kit boxes factory built and ready to fly. The Beast does not include the battery; it uses an E-Flite 2S 180-mAh LiPo. Both the Gee Bee R2 and Sbach 342 airplane packages include a battery and charger. One of the cool features about E-flite’s UMX aircraft is that they can be ready to fly before their batteries finish charging. Using my JR® 11X transmitter, as well as a friend’s Spektrum® DX8,
I programmed all three airplane setups into the transmitter’s memory before the batteries were done charging—20 minutes or so. After doing an initial setup for the wing type in the transmitter, I then bound the transmitter’s signal to each of the airplanes’ receivers. Then the only thing left to ready the airplanes for flight was to program the dual rates. The airplanes come factory set so that when 100 percent travel is set in the transmitter’s program setting for endpoints, it gives maximum control throw. This is a real time saver and eliminates programming guesswork. Once the batteries were charged, it was time to take to the calm skies of the Goldendale, Washington gymnasium.
Beast, Gee Bee & Sbach
In Flight UMX Beast 3D BNF Basic
Quique Somenzini’s original UMX Beast has been a favorite for many RC pilots over the past year because of its excellent precision aerobatic abilities. Although a pilot could fly a few 3D maneuvers with it, to do so required ultra-fast stick movements to maintain certain attitudes, and they could be difficult to maintain at times. The new UMX Beast 3D utilizes Quique’s original design but has integrated the AS3X system into its control, which has transformed the airplane. Although the Beast 3D does not have as much control authority as a profile-type indoor 3D foamy airplane, the Beast 3D is now capable of torque rolls, harriers and other 3D maneuvers. Torque rolls are fast, so you must be quick on the control, but they are nothing to scare you. Upright harriers are good but have some wing rock. The wing rock looks worse than you’ll feel because the AS3X system will not let the airplane go past a certain point, and it keeps the airplane close to level without aileron input. For me, the big surprise
This is a great-looking airplane, even if it is only sporting a wingspan of 14.7 in. and weighing just 2.5 oz ready to fly.
You won’t have any trouble learning how to harrier this little bird because it is quite stable in that flight regime.
Here I’m pulling the power back in a harrier and dropping down for a camera pass. It is pretty easy to do! RC-SF.COM
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The Gee Bee R2 was built to be modeled, as you can see by this photo. Equipped with an AS3X system, it is quite easy to fly too.
Here I’m pulling the throttle back to make a landing approach to the gym floor.
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This photo was taken outside. The wind was blowing at about 5 mph, but the little Gee Bee R2 had no problem flying in it.
Beast, Gee Bee & Sbach This little model looks cartoon-like, but it is a ton of fun to pilot around the gymnasium or even outdoors.
The Gee Bee R2 is definitely a racer! It flies along at a pretty fast airspeed, so be prepared.
UMX Gee Bee R2 BNF
With a top speed of almost 300 mph and a whopping 730 hp turning the propeller, there is no question as to why the Granville Brothers Gee Bee R2 racer is such an aviation legend. Although it won many air races, it was also notorious for being hard to fly because of its huge fuselage, stubby wings, short tail moment and cartoon-like appearance. These design features have plagued RC replicas of the Gee Bee since they were first made available as models. Even large-scale models of
the Gee Bee racer have earned the reputation of being hard to fly. Most RC pilots would expect an ultra-micro version of Gee Bee to be a handful as well. So, when Horizon Hobby introduced their new AS3Xequipped UMX version, I couldn’t wait to see how it would handle! How could something so small and scaled so closely to the Gee Bee R2 racers fly well? Let me tell you, I was amazed! The gym where my friends and I typically fly in is no larger than a basketball court. Consequently, I
was concerned about test-flying the Gee Bee in it. Nonetheless, I decided to perform the test flights indoors, rather than be wind challenged. Taxiing it to the farthest wall of the building enabled me to use the whole “runway.” The steerable tailwheel made ground handling easy. Once lined up, I slowly applied the power, using about 75 percent for takeoff. Halfway down the gymnasium floor, the UMX Gee Bee R2 lifted off the wood straight and true. Due to the small size of the gym, I had to instantly turn it, and hard too. It gave
My brother Michael and I are shown in the background as the model races past us and Wil, who was behind the camera.
RC-SF.COM
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BY Daniel Holman
Hyper Taxi Get In, Sit Down and Take a Ride
This is a very unusual-looking airplane, but it is pretty wild and fun to fly because you can be doing 3D maneuvers with it in almost no time, whether you fly it indoors or out.
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E-flite® Hyper Taxi
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orizon Hobby and E-flite have outdone themselves with their new Hyper Taxi, equipped with AS3X. Developing the new AS3X micro stabilization system has been no easy task, but through months of extensive testing, they have finally blurred the line between giant-scale and ultra-micro flight performance. When I read about the release, I though it was cool. After experiencing it firsthand, all I can say is that it blew me away! I have never been fond of gyro systems, but while this system utilizes a three-axis gyro, it is so much more! Instead of giving you the feeling that it is flying the airplane, this new AS3X system gives the ultra-micro airplane the feel that you would expect from a giant-scale aircraft by correcting for wind and turbulence as well as making all the controls feel much more fluid and natural. Moreover, if you put this system in a poor-handling airplane, you’ll suddenly have one that flies well. Put the AS3X system in an airplane that handles well, and well … read on! Wil called me to say he had just received three of E-Flite’s new AS3Xequipped aircraft. He wanted to get together for a photo shoot. Needless to say, I was excited!
Assembly
In the gym at Goldendale, Washington where I fly indoor airplanes, the Hyper Taxi was easily removed from its kit box/carrying case, as was its charger and 2S 80-mAh LiPo battery pack. After putting the battery on to charge, I used another battery to bind the aircraft’s receiver to my JR 11X transmitter. Programming the transmitter for the Hyper Taxi was quick and easy because the model requires almost no programming. Dual-rate controls are recommended but not mandatory. I programmed a little exponential into the transmitter and then checked the controls. The Hyper Taxi was ready to fly in less than 10 minutes from box opening. It’s really that easy!
Here I am with my JR 11X transmitter and the UMX Hyper Taxi, which comes with a built-in AS3X system. It will only take you a few minutes to ready this model for flight.
It won’t take you long to learn how to do harrier flight with your Hyper Taxi. It is an easy model to master. RC-SF.COM
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