Welcome to York

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A riot of colour from May to September in over 20 acres of extensive gardens, featuring sweeping borders packed with more than 10,000 varieties of flowers, shrubs and trees, plus fountains, sculptures, lake and arboretum and much more.

And, enjoy a light lunch, freshly baked scones or a delicious cake in our café and browse around the fine selection of perennials in our specialist nursery.

“A modern garden created on the grandest of scales, an extraordinary achievement and beautiful” – Monty Don Opening Times May 1st – September 30th Tuesday – Sunday (plus Bank Holidays) 10.30am – 5.00pm (last entry 3.30pm)

Tel. 01904 488800 Common Lane • Warthill • York • YO19 5XS.

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4 | Welcome to York

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Contents Welcome.............................. 09

This wonderful city draws visitors back like a magnet year after year.

Great days out ������������������� 12 York offers an abundance of things to do with days out and top attractions for the whole family to enjoy.

Don’t miss ��������������������������� 38 Our top things to see and do when visiting the city.

Shopping ������������������������������ 40 Shopaholics will love York for its eclectic mix of boho-chic boutiques, high-street staples and quirky independents.

© MERCHANT ADVENTURERS’ HALL; YORK CASTLE MUSEUM

“ The Merchant Adventurers’ Hall off Fossgate is well worth a visit” Great days out, P13

L Merchant Adventurers’ Hall. See p13.

I York Castle Museum. See p39.

Welcome to York | 5

Unwrap the history of chocolate Guided Tour experience

Book online now yorkschocolatestory.com

YCS Kingfisher Visitor Guide final #359220.indd 1

6 | Welcome to York

12/06/2024 11:28:14

Contents Eating out.............................52 This city is a foodie’s paradise with a host of fantastic restaurants, cafés and pubs – so make sure you bring a healthy appetite.

Weekender ������������������������� 58 Only here for the weekend?

Fear not! Here are some ideas for a memorable short break.

Culture Club ����������������������60 Culture vultures assemble!

This city offers the perfect mix of galleries, museums, exhibitions and festivals.

After dark ��������������������������� 64

The night-time economy in York is thriving, packed with clubs, pubs, bars and live music venues.

©HUFTON AND CROW/YORK THEATRE ROYAL; LEGACY AT THE GRAND, YORK

Time to explore ���������������� 68 Although this city has more than enough to keep you busy, a journey further afield can make for an exciting new adventure.

L The River Ouse, The Grand. See p58.

I York Theatre Royal. See p60.

Welcome to York | 7

A place like no other Discover spectacular interiors, beautiful gardens, and an award-winning adventure playground at Yorkshire’s iconic stately home.

8 | Welcome to York

Gardens open daily House open from April 2025, and dressed for Christmas from mid-November Plan your visit castlehoward.co.uk

This wonderful city draws visitors back like a magnet year after year

Welcome, visitor!

North’s top cultural hotspots.

Don’t forget there is also a wealth of things to see and do right on York’s doorstep including an abundance of stately homes, the North York Moors National Park and the seaside resorts of Scarborough and Whitby.

During your time here you can call into the Visit York Information Centre at 1 Museum Street where they’ll be happy to provide you with expert advice on how to get the most out of your visit, and what to see and do in York and Yorkshire. Please enjoy your time in York, and we look forward to welcoming you again very soon! ■

York Minster is one of the world's most magnificent cathedrals

©DAVIDIONUT/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Welcome to the wonderful, historic city of York – you’ve picked a fantastic time to visit! Few locations can truly rival the charm of York. Steeped in history, this city offers stunning architecture, world-class attractions, eclectic shops, stylish restaurants and a wealth of spectacular accommodations to suit every taste and budget. It’s easy to understand why millions of UK and international visitors come here every year.

Whether you’re looking for some family entertainment or high-class art, there is something for every culture vulture in a city with a cultural tradition stretching back a millennium or two.

Choose from two major theatres and a national music centre. Discover exquisite art galleries and a year-round calendar of fabulous festivals. York is truly one of the

Welcome to York | 9

Experience the magic of Christmas all year round Discover exclusive handcrafted Christmas decorations, unique gifts and traditional treasures over two floors.

Käthe Wohlfahrt · 17-19 Stonegate · York

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York offers an abundance of things to do with days out and top attractions for the whole family to enjoy

Great days out

Merchant Adventurers’ Hall

Is there another city that packs as much to see and do into such a compact space?

York provides brilliant days out, with internationally renowned museums, jawdropping history and interactive treats around every corner. And it’s an ideal base from which to explore the wider area, home to some of Britain’s best countryside and coastline.

Don’t expect to put your camera down for more than a few seconds as you explore the many cultural faces of York. It’s a big claim, but York’s crowning glory, the majestic Minster, tops the lot when it comes to attractions. Northern Europe’s greatest Gothic cathedral is a breathtaking spectacle.

12 | Welcome to York

The Merchant Adventurers’ Hall dates from 1357

Sightseers pay to get in, but children under 16 go for free in the main cathedral.

In the Undercroft Museum, you’ll find the largest exhibition ever created within a British cathedral. Through a combination of priceless ancient artefacts and state-of-theart computer modelling, it explains how the Minster was saved from imminent collapse in the 1960s, and the living, working church down the centuries.

Next door to the Minster is Treasurer’s House, which is a beautiful building complete with a spooky ghost story. It’s here that a Roman legion was seen marching through the basement. Fairfax House is considered to be the finest Georgian

best picnic spot, the handsome Victorian building is home to historical treasures and fascinating fossils. Virtual reality and computerised graphics help you discover the giants that ruled the earth 150 million years ago in Yorkshire’s Jurassic World.

York Castle Museum has been a popular destination for generations. This museum of everyday life allows you to walk along a Victorian street, visit the shops and chat to the shopkeepers while discovering how people’s homes changed through the ages. Partly l

L Jorvik Viking

Centre

I York Castle

Museum

©MERCHANT ADVENTURERS’ HALL; YORK ARCHAEOLOGICAL TRUST; YORK CASTLE MUSEUM

townhouse in England and it’s only a stone’s throw from Clifford’s Tower.

Like Treasurer’s House, Goddards, on Tadcaster Road, is run by the National Trust.

Described as ‘an intimate arts and crafts-style family home’, Goddards was built by the Terry family who ran the famous chocolate factory.

Other historical sites well worth a visit include the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall, off Fossgate, a Grade 1-listed building dating from 1357. Or discover the restored medieval townhouse Barley Hall, on Coffee Yard, and the Roman Bath found underneath the pub of the same name in St Sampson’s Square.

The Cold War Bunker, on Monument Close, Acomb, presents a chilling reminder of our more recent past. It was here where officials would have monitored the effect of a nuclear attack on Yorkshire.

A trip to York is not complete without a journey in the JORVIK Viking Centre time machine. It takes you back a thousand years, where you’ll glide over the city as it would have looked when the Norsemen and women settled here. Thanks to modern animatronics, you’ll see families at work and play, including clucking chickens!

The Yorkshire Museum is a good place to start when you want to dive further into history. Set in Museum Gardens, the city’s

Welcome to York | 13

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OR OLD

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Welcome to York | 15

This is the genuine, the authentic, the magical and the famous...

ORIGINAL

GHOST WALK of

YORK EST. 1973

Britain’s first premier ghost walk from one of Britain’s most famous pubs. A professional and historic tour aimed at seekers of originality.

We are the acknowledged inspiration for ghost walks throughout Britain, Europe and the USA. Come along and find out why. Ad Finem.

Every night – Kings Arms Pub – Ouse Bridge – 8.00pm No need to book £10.00 adults. £6.00 children/students.

Private groups at discounted rates.

Tel: 07825 618123 Email: ghostwalk.ofyork@talk21.com www.theoriginalghostwalkofyork.co.uk

Escape into the trees at Dalby Forest Explore over 8,500 acres of forest just an hour drive from the heart of York.

With miles of trails, on-site cycle hire, cafes and a gift shop. Dalby Forest is the perfect full day out for everyone.

16 | Welcome to York

Ge forestryengland.uk/dalby

Welcome to York | 17

Discover one of the finest medieval guild halls in the world.

Enjoy delicious food and drink in the stunning Medieval MERCHANTS’ COFFEE HOUSE VISIT US in Fossgate, York, YO1 9XD Open 7 days a week Visit merchantshallyork.org for more information or call: 01904 654818

20 | Welcome to York

©SCIENCE MUSEUM GROUP; YORKSHIRE AIR MUSEUM

based inside York’s old prison, the Castle Museum features the condemned cell where Dick Turpin saw out his last days.

York’s position at the heart of the rail network and proud tradition of train building are celebrated in the National Railway Museum, behind York’s imposing station.

Here, discover some of the great locomotives of the steam age, including Mallard and the Duchess of Hamilton. And, as kids can roam freely around the vast central hall and touch many of the exhibits, it’s a great spot for them to let off steam. A former European Museum of the Year, the NRM is free.

To complete the transport theme, Yorkshire Air Museum houses its collection of aircraft, some pre-dating World War II, at a former wartime RAF base in Elvington. The largest independent air museum in Britain, it’s home to early aircraft like the Cayley Glider, as well as iconic war-winners, such as the Spitfire and Halifax bomber. It brings the aeronautical story up to date with exhibits like the Frenchbuilt Mirage, built for tactical nuclear strike and a reminder of the Cold War. Wartime memories are also evoked at Eden Camp, where 1940s scenes are recreated on the site of a former prisoner-of-war camp.

It’s the bigger boys and girls only who’ll appreciate The York Dungeon. Not for the

squeamish, it depicts some of the grisliest bits of history. Thanks to the lively and very funny guides, you’ll soon find yourself immersed in some of York’s darker legends.

Meet the Plague Doctor in the York Plague House who’ll check for signs of infection, and scream along with the Torturer of the Castle Dungeon.

York Mansion House, in St Helen’s Square, is the official residence of the Lord Mayor of York. Inside the handsome Georgian building are interactive exhibitions where you’ll l

L National Railway

Museum

I Yorkshire Air

Museum

Welcome to York | 21

THE BAR CONVENT Living Heritage Centre

YORK'S BEST KEPT SECRET SINCE 1686

EXHIBITION | CHAPEL | CAFE & GARDEN | GUEST HOUSE

At a time when it was illegal to be Catholic, and only boys received a formal education, a group of religious sisters established this secret convent, and were the first to educate girls in the country. Today, it is the oldest living convent in the UK. 17 Blossom Street, York, YO24 1AQ w: barconvent.co.uk | t: 01904 643 238

22 | Welcome to York

Photography: Gareth Buddo

Studio gallery Rosedale Abbey North York Moors YO18 8SA 01751 417550

Celebrating 30 years of blowing glass in Rosedale Open: Monday - Saturday 10am - 4pm Sunday 2 - 4pm March 1st - December 20th 2025

gilliesjonesglass.co.uk Welcome to York | 23

Taste your way around the cities of Yorkshire

with Yorkshire Appetite Food Tours We will take you on a culinary and cultural adventure stopping off at five great eateries. We have tours available in Leeds, York, Harrogate and Ripon. All of our venues serve locally sourced delicious food with great passion. Why eat at one place when you can try five?

With influences from our great county and further afield, each carefully chosen tasting makes up part of the county’s vibrant food and drink scene. With a knowledgeable guide and the company of other foodies, you and your taste buds will not only thoroughly enjoy themselves but you will be supporting local businesses too. Special dietary requirements catered for. Please inform at time of booking.

www.yorkshireappetite.com

24 | Welcome to York

07960 240802

kay@yorkshireappetite.com

STEP INTO THE DRAMA The ultimate Emmerdale experience.

Visit the live-working production set and walk in the footsteps of your favourite cast members.

WEEKEND GUIDED TOURS - MEET THE STARS SET SECRETS - BREATHTAKING SCENERY

P R E - B OOK ONLINE NOW emmerdalevillagetour.co.uk EMMERDALE™ and © ITV Studios Ltd 2024. Licensed by ITV Studios Ltd. All Rights Reserved

Welcome to York | 25

28 | Welcome to York

The idea behind DIG is to get down and dirty with a trowel to find what secrets lie underground

cook a virtual feast to a Georgian recipe in the basement kitchen. Video technology recreates the view from the State Room window at different times in the city’s history.

DIG, on St Saviourgate, is brought to you by the people behind JORVIK. The idea is to get down and dirty with a trowel to find what fascinating secrets lie underground, just like real archaeologists.

It’s not likely you’ll ever hear, “I’m bored,” from the kids on holidays to York. From farmyard adventures to thrilling sports, there’s always something fun to do for all ages.

York Maze, near Elvington. Said to be the largest maze of its kind in Europe, it has been shaped like Doctor Who and the characters from The Lion King in the past. It’ll keep the whole family occupied for quite some time.

Alongside are lots of other activities, like quad bikes and crazy golf.

Little ones love going to The Web Adventure Park, with giant slides and ball pools inside, and a go-kart track, animal zone and climbing frames outside. The attraction, just off York’s outer ring road on Wigginton Road, added dinosaur miniature golf and fairground rides in the last couple of years.

What more could a kid or big kid ask for?

A tasty treat for any visitor and a special treat for children, York’s Chocolate Story in King’s Square is an entertaining guided tour through the history of York’s famous chocolate-making families, the Rowntrees l

©YORK ARCHAEOLOGICAL TRUST

Picnic areas Farm animals, a fort and trips on a steam engine – there’s everything a child could want at Murton Park. Found just to the east of York, the 14-acre site is home to the Yorkshire Museum of Farming, where you’ll meet sheep, ponies, pigs and cows. Enjoy a Roman Fort and, on summer Sundays, short trips on the Derwent Valley Light Railway. You’ll also find play and picnic areas along with a café.

It’s open from April to October, with Santa Specials in December.

A little further south, there’s a great chance for the kids to get lost. Every summer, a forward-thinking farmer creates a giant puzzle in his maize field – the result is the

DIG on St Saviourgate is brought to you by the people behind JORVIK

Welcome to York | 29

VISIT

POCKLINGT N Visit Pocklington – The gateway to the Yorkshire Wolds

Pocklington is a classic English market town and is the gateway to the Yorkshire Wolds. It has an array of independent shops, lovely eateries, a popular arts centre and places to visit.

The Yorkshire Wolds are a great place to walk and cycle.

Pocklington is situated 25 miles west of Hull and is easily accessible from the A1079 linking York and Hull.

www.pocklington.gov.uk

Our family Over zoo has over 142 142species species totodiscover! discover!

30 | Welcome to York

STEP BACK IN TIME ON A FAMILY ADVENTURE TO UNCOVER WORLD WAR II

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32 | Welcome to York

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a land of thrilling family fun…

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Welcome to York | 33

34 | Welcome to York

©ANDY BULMER/CASTLE HOWARD

and the Terrys. You can also create your own sweets at the chocolate-making station.

Don’t expect to leave without pockets full of chocolate gifts.

York Racecourse provides an exciting day out for young and old alike at the course they call the ‘Ascot of the North’. On the present site, racing started in 1731 and its August race week was the annual highlight of the social calendar by the end of that decade.

Check the schedule for exciting events like the Ebor Festival with specific familyfriendly activities.

Sporting activities The city’s professional football team, York City FC, and York City Knights rugby league team, moved into the brand-new LNER Community Stadium at Monks Cross in 2021. It’s located at the York Stadium Leisure Complex, where pools and gyms keep everyone active. Book a ticket to see a game.

If you need to put some bounce in your bungee, try the Point Zero Trampoline Park in Poppleton. They also run fitness classes for adults, special sessions for toddlers and children’s parties. After all that action, how about a relaxing glide along the river? City Cruises York takes visitors on a boat trip along the beautiful River Ouse at intervals

throughout the day. Interesting features are pointed out by the captain’s live commentary.

You can board the boats at Kings Staith or Lendal Bridge. Prefer to take the helm?

City Cruises also hires out small self-drive motorboats by the hour, known for their distinctive red colour, which seat up to eight people.

There are many wonderful family days out just a short drive from York. Fifteen miles to the north east of the city, you’ll find the spectacular historic house of Castle Howard, where scenes from Netflix TV hit Bridgerton were filmed. Beautiful grounds, an adventure playground and craft shops make this a memorable trip for everyone.

Both Beningbrough Hall and Nunnington Hall are impressive stately homes, which host regular exhibitions of art and photography.

Fountains Abbey, near Ripon, is a World Heritage Site, featuring the ruins of a Cistercian abbey in stunning grounds. No other transport can match a ride on a steam train, as anyone who has taken a trip on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway would testify.

With all these amazing experiences in and around York, there’s almost too much to do!

So, which attractions should you choose? Our advice – make a list of your favourites before you arrive, then tick them off as you go! ■

Castle Howard has been home to the Howard family for more than 300 years

Welcome to York | 35

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36 | Welcome to York

promotion

Yorkshire Air Museum

The Yorkshire Air Museum at Elvington near York is one of the UK’s leading independent museums of aviation, housing a wide collection of aircraft on the site of an original WW2 bomber base.

Exhibits range from examples of the earliest flying machines to supersonic jets.

We have the only example of a Halifax Mk III bomber in Europe – ‘Friday the 13th’ the type that flew from RAF Elvington in the darkest days of the war.

There’s also the mighty Victor, a nuclear bomber turned tanker, the Nimrod submarine-hunter, Yorkshire’s own Blackburn Buccaneer low-level strike aircraft, and many more.

The site includes a number of original wartime buildings, including the Control Tower which was the eyes and ears of the base and a reconstruction of a French Officers’ Mess, from the time when RAF Elvington was crewed entirely by French personal.

There’s even a cinema, showing vintage newsreels and original material telling some of the incredible stories behind our collection.

We have a Café, a shop and a play area for children. Dogs are welcome and there’s free parking. Most tickets offer free return for 12 months (conditions apply). ■

Yorkshire Air Museum Halifax Way, Elvington York YO41 4AU 01904 608595 yorkshireairmuseum.org museum@yorkshireairmuseum.org Welcome to York | 37

DON’T MISS Our top things to see and do when visiting this picturesque city

1

Shop the Shambles

The Shambles is one of the best-preserved medieval shopping streets in Europe.

Although none of the original shopfronts have survived from medieval times, some properties still have exterior wooden shelves, reminders of when cuts of meat were served from the open windows. The street was made narrow by design to keep the meat out of direct sunlight. But you can readily imagine the

Shambles thronged with people and was awash with offal and discarded bones.

2

Get crazy for Chocolate

A tasty treat for any visitor and a special treat for children, York’s Chocolate is an entertaining guided tour through the history of York’s famous chocolate-making families, the Rowntrees and the Terrys. You can also create your own sweets at the chocolate-making station. Don’t expect to

leave without pockets full of chocolate gifts.

3

The York Dungeon

Not for the squeamish, The York Dungeon depicts some of the grisliest bits of history, and thanks to the lively and very funny guides, you’ll soon find yourself immersed in some of York’s darker legends!

4

Full steam ahead I

The National Railway Museum is home to a range of railway icons and millions of artefacts, from the Art Deco Duchess of Hamilton to the only Shinkansen Bullet train to be displayed outside Japan, to a lock of Robert Stephenson’s hair, to the Flying Scotsman. The Museum’s archives include 1.4 million photographs, 15,000 books and 7,000 historic posters. Whether you’re interested in the social

history of the railways or Thomas the Tank Engine, you will find it here.

5

Afternoon tea

Indulge in afternoon tea at one of the many tea rooms throughout the city. Since 1919, Bettys’ mouth-watering cakes, refreshing teas and friendly smiles have made it world famous. If you’ve been pounding the City Walls why not visit Grays Court hotel and enjoy both the ambience and the food?

6

Historic York I

©DUNCAN LOMAX/YORK MINSTER; SCIENCE MUSUEM GROUP; YORK CASTLE MUSEUM

York Castle Museum has been a popular destination for generations. This museum of everyday life allows you to walk along a Victorian street, visit the shops and chat to the shopkeepers while discovering how people’s homes changed through the ages. Partly based

inside York’s old prison, the Castle Museum features the condemned cell where Dick Turpin saw out his last days.

7

Viking heritage

The JORVIK Viking Centre is a dynamic vision of York in the 10th century. This attraction should not be missed when visiting York as the visitor travels back in time to experience the sounds, smells and images of the city of Jorvik in AD 975. State-of-the-art capsules fly the visitor over and through the city.

Visitors even travel through the houses and bedrooms of the people of Jorvik.

York Castle Museum has been a popular destination for generations

8

York Minster l

A visit to York would be incomplete without a visit to York Minster. York’s Minster is renowned all around the world and is the largest medieval Gothic cathedral in Northern Europe. This is religious architecture on the very grandest scales: more than 500 feet in length, 100 feet wide and with a central tower 200 feet high. The cathedral took more than 250 years to complete and is the most visited cathedral in Britain.

9

Hidden houses

Tucked behind York Minster, the National Trust-run Treasurer’s House is not as it first appears. In 1897 it was bought by Frank Green, the grandson of a wealthy industrialist, and by 1900 he had transformed it at great speed into an elaborately decorated town house,

ready for the visit of Edward VII. The award-winning garden is an oasis of calm, offering unrivalled views of the minster – an ideal place to relax.

10

Dine out in style

Thanks to the explosion in York culinary experiences in recent years, you can eat your way around the world along with savouring local flavours. And, with new cafés and restaurants opening all the time, you’ll always find something scrumptiously innovative, no matter how often you visit. ■

SHOPPING

Shopaholics will love York for its eclectic mix of boho-chic boutiques, high-street staples and quirky independents

York has been a trading town since the Romans founded the city, instantly boosting local sandal and toga industries. Today, it’s one of the best shopping cities in the country, boasting designer names and independent boutiques in equal measure. So, make sure you save a little extra to spend up big!

When you love going from shop to shop across vibrant streets or shopping centres, York is your new retail therapy heaven.

Medieval shopping street Shambles’ chocolate-box charm led to it being named ‘Most Picturesque Street’ in the first Google 40 | Welcome to York

The street called the Shambles has a chocolatebox charm

Street View Awards. This narrow, cobbled thoroughfare gets its name from the ‘shammels’, benches used by the butchers who used to frequent the street. Today, there’s still one butcher – The York Sausage Shop – along with several other independent food and drink shops.

It’s a great place to pick up gifts, with glassware and jewellery in popular indie boutiques. And if you’re a Harry Potter fan, Shambles is your dream street. Although JK Rowling might not have visited, it’s said that the designers from the movie franchise

©ALEXEY FEDORENKO/ALLISONLOUVAIN/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

used it as inspiration for their version of Diagon Alley. Several shops are devoted to the boy wizard, like The Shop That Must Not Be Named.

Two other magical shops you mustn’t miss are The Potions Cauldron, where you can buy bottles of unicorn essence and tears of a wizard before being taught the skill of potion mixing in its secret chamber. The York Ghost Merchants sells, well, York ghosts, from a beautifully recreated Georgian shop interior. Coney Street has been the hub of the York shopping experience since Viking times. Today, you’ll find the likes of Boots, Waterstones, Paperchase and toy retailer The Entertainer here.

Coney Street seamlessly becomes Spurriergate at its southern end. This is home to a modern building housing ZARA and H&M. Around the corner, on High Ousegate, are more big names including Lakeland and Urban Outfitters.

York’s other principal shopping thoroughfare, Parliament Street, was created 150 years ago to provide a spacious and convenient space for Victorians to sell their wares. These days, it’s home to Marks and Spencer, plus most flavours of high-street bank.

A large shop devoted to retro fashion, The Vintage Store opened here in 2021.

Parliament Street’s also the place for an al fresco drink or sandwich on a summer’s day, with several cafés spilling tables and chairs under the trees.

Walk towards the Minster from Parliament Street and you enter Davygate.

One end is dominated by Browns, the longestablished family-run department store housed in a Grade 2-listed building, where sophisticated shoppers can while away a few hours. You’ll find prestigious names like Chanel, Clinique and Estée Lauder in its beauty hall on the ground floor. Handbag heaven is here too, with Radley and Coach among the selections.

There’s more to do than just shop, however.

Browns boasts its own hair and beauty salon, Regis, on the first floor, as well as a café and a restaurant. Davygate is also home to Cornwall women’s fashion retailer Seasalt, and Space NK Apothecary, the luxury beauty boutique.

York’s city-centre Primark aims to be a place to chill as well as shop, with comfy seats, free WiFi and charging points for mobile devices. Its big-sister Primark is found in the Monks Cross Shopping centre, out of town.

In the Coppergate Centre is department store Fenwick, selling fashion, fragrances, homeware and toys. It’s also home to Café 21, run by chef Terry Laybourne. The Coppergate

Shopping Centre, York’s brick-built shopping development a few steps from the castle, is particularly strong on footwear, with Clarks and Pavers among a few.

York’s swish Vangarde Shopping Park includes a glass-fronted Next store, selling fashion and homeware, and a Marks and Spencer, which includes a beauty hall and a café with views all the way to York Minster.

There’s plenty to eat and drink at Vangarde too, with the likes of Costa and Nando’s close to the big stores.

Next door to Vangarde is the Monks Cross Shopping centre, home to big names like WHSmith and Hobbycraft, and loads of free parking. Monks Cross has recently undergone an upgrade, which brings new food and drink options to the centre, including a branch of baker Greggs. Just outside the city centre is Foss Islands Retail Park, where you’ll find Morrisons, plus discount store B&M. It’s easy to find, just look for the giant chimney. More big names can be found at the Clifton Moor shopping park. l

L McArthurGlen

York Designer Outlet j Shambles, York

Welcome to York | 41

York’s Hidden Gem

Pyramid Gallery hides behind a tiny Victorian window on Stonegate in a medieval building owned by the National Trust, close to the Minster.

Step inside and you will find a superb collection of artwork, stylish crafts and handmade gift items.

Pyramid Gallery was established in 1982 and has an international reputation as a supplier of British studio glass, ceramics and handmade works of art.

But it is probably best known for its impressive selection of silver and gold jewellery made by the very best studio jewellers in the UK. And, if you do not want to buy today, the gallery encourages browsers and has a very good website from which it sells a small selection of the thousands of items kept in stock and in its exhibition spaces.

This delightful gallery has collectors items such as a glass sculpture (below) by Colin Reid, alongside exquisite jewellery by Pamela Dickinson (above) and etchings of the Dales and Cumbria (below) by Wensleydale artist Piers Browne.

You will find a relaxed atmosphere in the shop and friendly, helpful and knowledgeable staff. An uplifting and memorable experience is guaranteed. Pyramid Gallery is indeed a hidden gem on York’s favourite shopping street.

42 | Welcome to York

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46 | Welcome to York

And, to the south, you’ll find many a cutprice label at McArthurGlen York Designer Outlet, off the A19. With 120 stores, from Superdry to Swarovski and Paul Smith, selling items at up to 60 per cent discount, the outlet draws shoppers from across Yorkshire and beyond.

One of the great joys of shopping in York is the eclectic range of independently run retailers for special treasures. York is the perfect place for a bookworm to go burrowing.

As well as Waterstones on Coney Street, the city has many independent outlets.

One of the friendliest is the Little Apple Bookshop, on High Petergate, which also sells a fine range of stationery. Climb the creaky stairs of the Minster Gate Bookshop to find that special volume on one of its five floors.

Be sure to visit Janette Ray, on Bootham, which sells rare and out-of-print works, and volumes on architecture and design.

Musicians will absolutely love 200-yearold Banks Musicroom, on Lendal. It is the oldest music shop in Britain, selling a very wide range of fantastic instruments and sheet music.

Guitar specialist MOR Music is based in a large showroom off Fossgate. Earworm Records, found via an alleyway off Goodramgate, stocks vinyl and CDs, T-shirts

Dog & Bone Vintage showcases two floors of retro style on Castlegate

and more for the music connoisseur.

In the last few years, York has developed an impressive vintage clothing scene. Dog & Bone Vintage showcases two floors of retro style on Castlegate. Fossgate is home to Bowler and Betty and Goodramgate hosts the Chinese Laundry store.

While you’re in York, don’t be surprised if you see one of the regular vintage fairs for fabulous rummaging. Antique lovers are spoiled for choice. The Antiques Centre, on Stonegate, is home to many traders and thousands of collectables, from coins to prints and toys. Another 60 or more dealers are inside The Red House Antique Centre at Duncombe Place. It’s owned by TV antiques dealer Tim Hogarth and sources pieces suitable for all budgets.

The art lover won’t leave York emptyhanded and you’ll find plenty of galleries in l

©DOG & BONE VINTAGE

Dog & Bone Vintage, Showcases, York

Welcome to York | 47

k The Hairy Fig,

Fossgate I Fenwick at Coppergate Shopping Centre

48 | Welcome to York

the city centre. The Blue Tree Gallery features exhibitions along with beautiful works of sculpture and glass. According to McGee is a contemporary white cube on Tower Street, which champions a range of artists. Art of Protest Gallery sells limited-edition prints and original works.

Set in an 18th-century printworks PICA Studios houses the workshops of 18 artists, makers, writers and musicians. Then, there’s the Pyramid Gallery specialising in British art and jewellery. The Braithwaite Gallery is run by artist Mark Braithwaite and his wife Anne, and Blossom Street Gallery & Framing holds exhibitions all year round.

As well as selling jewellery, ceramics and glass, the Village Gallery hosts exhibitions of contemporary fine art and craftwork. A recent addition is The Giftery and The Shop of Small Changes, two shops in one Burton Stone Lane building. The first offers gifts and cards, and the other sells zero-waste products including plastic-free replacements for items that people use daily.

There are lots of specialist shops in York, but none more delightful than Duttons for Buttons. All your haberdashery needs will be met inside an historic lopsided building.

Monk Bar Model Shop is the place to go for model railways and diecast vehicles. Or, try

P&S Hobbies and Models. O+M at Snowhome is great for contemporary homeware designs and Upside Down Design offers unique home décor ideas.

The best news of all about York? You’re never far from chocolate perfection in this city. York Cocoa Works is home to a wonderful array of treats while Monk Bar Chocolatiers offers a taste of hand-made chocolate heaven.

Shambles Market, found between Shambles and Parliament Street, sells a daily selection of fresh fruit, meat and fish, not to mention clothes, music and more. The monthly farmers’ market is also held here. Also in the marketplace, you’ll find Henshelwoods Deli selling a wonderful array of cheese and ham. Close by is Bluebird Bakery, which is a must for bread and tray bakes.

The Hairy Fig, off Fossgate, offers truffle oil, pastrami, mussels and wonderful gifts for the foodie in your life. On the other side of town, Mannion & Co is a deli and café with a distinctive continental feel, which opened in a former greengrocer’s shop on Blake Street.

If you’re looking for a bargain, a unique gift or a collector’s item, you’ll find it here. Just be warned – there’s no such thing as a quick pop to the shops in York. Slip on a pair of sturdy shoes, and set aside some serious browsing time! ■

Welcome to York | 49

©ANDY FALCONER/UNSPLASH; COPPERGATE SHOPPING CENTRE

promotion

Käthe Wohlfahrt and the magic of Christmas

The family-owned company Käthe Wohlfahrt was founded in Germany in 1964 by the couple Wilhelm and Käthe. It is known for its unique, year-round Christmas speciality shops.

The range of 20,000 items includes many classics from traditional manufacturers as well as modern motifs in wood, glass, pewter and much more.

Particularly popular are the hand-made and hand-painted products from the company's own design studio, where creative artists and skilled craftsmen are constantly developing new products for the labels 'Käthes Original', 'Poesie in Glas' or 'Kindertraum'.

Since 2016 a two-storey Christmas wonderland from Käthe Wohlfahrt exists in York's historic centre.

Christmas tree decorations, Christmas pyramids, arches of light, incense smokers, nutcrackers and much more - in different colours, shapes, materials and styles - invite you to choose something special to make your home and your Christmas tree an eyecatcher. No time to go to York? Then have a look at the online shop!

The company's headquarters is based in Germany, in the romantic town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, where the famous Käthe Wohlfahrt shop 'Christmas Village' welcomes visitors from all over the world. In Germany, as well as in Spain, France, Bruges and the USA, year-round Christmas shops invite you 50 | Welcome to York

to immerse yourself in the magical Christmas season, not just in winter. ■

Käthe Wohlfahrt York Mulberry Hall 17-19 Stonegate YO1 8ZW York +44 1904 655 080 Service@wohlfahrt.com kaethe-wohlfahrt.com

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Welcome to York | 51

EATING OUT This city is a foodie’s paradise with a host of fantastic restaurants, cafés and pubs – so make sure you bring a healthy appetite

Legacy Restaurant at The Grand, York

Eating out in York just gets better and better. The city has some of the most interesting and exciting chefs around, and great new eateries are opening all the time.

Wonderful cafés abound, from the most traditional tea shops to coffee houses run by renowned baristas. And the city’s restaurants regularly attract national acclaim and awards. Get set for your eyes to be much larger than your stomach 52 | Welcome to York

as you choose between York’s best dining venues!

Renowned chef Tommy Banks has brought a new level of sophistication to dining in the city.

In January 2021, his restaurant, Roots York, became the first in the city to be awarded a coveted Michelin star. Roots can be found in a converted pub on Marygate.

Dishes are created around seasonal produce, much of it grown by the

team themselves.

Around the corner, you’ll find the Star Inn The City, inspired by top chef Andrew Pern. As well as terrific food, the Star boasts a wonderful riverside terrace, where you’ll sit and watch the boats sailing along the Ouse. But this can no longer claim to be the food-anddrink location with the finest views in York.

That honour now goes to the

©LEGACY AT THE GRAND, YORK

Sora Sky Bar. Found on top of the Malmaison York hotel, it boasts a wonderful vista across the Minster and the city walls to the railway station. The food matches the stylish setting.

The Ivy St Helen’s Square, sister of the famous West End nightspot, sits opposite York Mansion House, the Georgian home of the Lord Mayor. Exquisitely decorated, and with staff trained to be a cut above, The Ivy has become a favourite of many residents and visitors alike.

Try bespoke cocktail the Mansion House Sling while you’re there.

Consolidating York’s position as one of the top foodie destinations in the North, the city has claimed spots in the UK Restaurants Top 100.

Among the highest ranking of these is Skosh, on Micklegate. Skosh is based around the concept of snacks and small plates – its name comes from the Japanese word ‘Sukoshi’, meaning a small amount.

York’s only five-star hotel, The Grand, York, is home to Legacy, a brand-new, fine-dining restaurant offering an iconic eightcourse tasting menu with pairing wine flights. Legacy elevates the hotel’s focus on modern British cuisine with a refined menu made up of a carefully curated collaboration of flavours and locally sourced ingredients.

Another hotel whose restaurant is well worth the visit is Middletons.

Located in the city centre, Middletons is the perfect place for afternoon tea, a leisurely lunch or a romantic dinner for two in luxuroius surroundings.

If you’re an Italian fan, Lucia is worth seeking out. Tucked away in a corner of Swinegate, this relaxed, family-run venue offers everything from pizza and pasta to simple nibbles.

Rustique, on Castlegate, temporarily transports York diners to Paris, while York also has a branch of popular French chain Côte Brasserie on Low Petergate.

In 2021, Rustique’s owners created Nola, on Lendal, giving diners a taste of French-influenced New Orleans food.

Bengali and Tandoori cuisine

Legacy at The Grand in York focusses on modern British cuisine

is the speciality of the Mumbai Lounge, which has a drinks lounge upstairs, as well as the main dining area. Hidden away on Franklins Yard, just off Fossgate, is Oshibi Korean Bistro & BBQ, serving up speciality dishes from the region using locally sourced ingredients.

On Walmgate is the tiny, undistinguished-looking Il Paradiso del Cibo, which serves some fine Italian food in York at reasonable prices. Close by is Thai bistro Khao San Road, creating dishes straight from the wok. One of York’s most venerable streets, Goodramgate, is home to Lady Row. These are the city’s oldest houses, which date back to 1316, and behind them stands the ancient Holy Trinity Church.

They are also home to Happy Valley, where you can soak up the history over a Chinese banquet.

In more modern times, Goodramgate has become home to a world of fantastic food. Those with a taste for Indian cooking will love Bengal Brasserie.

Different experiences A very different experience awaits at The Hilt, York city centre’s first axethrowing venue. There are five bays with two targets each. And, keeping with the Viking theme, the menu

by Odin’s Plate is Nordic-inspired, including Odin’s Dog, where you get currywurst ketchup with your handmade sausage.

Anyone who yearns to eat unicorns on toast while sitting on a swing is in luck. Plush Café is a decidedly quirky café on Stonegate, complete with flamingos, neon signs and a garden room. If you’re looking for a fun and funky vibe, Zaap Thai, on Lendal, has a streetfood ambience, and there’s even a three-wheeled tuk-tuk inside!

The best news is you don’t need to go far for an exotic taste sensation.

In fact, you can dine around the world without leaving York’s city walls. There are two special events that foodies should mark on the calendar. The quality of the produce and the innovation of the chefs are showcased every September, when, for a fabulously flavoursome fortnight, Parliament Street l Welcome to York | 53

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ZAAP Thai is bringing Bangkok’s world-famous street food to York Enter the vibrant world of ZAAP Thai street food in York, where every corner echoes the vibrant spirit of a Bangkok street food market. Immerse yourself in the enchanting atmosphere, complete with neon lights, funky tuk-tuks and the aroma of the best Thai street food.

With over 80 authentic Thai street food dishes to choose from, including many vegetarian options, you will be transported to Thailand, the world's street food capital, without even needing to bring a passport!

Come and find us at 7 Lendal, just over Lendal Bridge in the city walls Tel. 01904 626691

Welcome to York | 55

Bettys Café Tea Rooms, St Helen’s Square

is home to the York Food & Drink Festival. It’s now been joined by York Restaurant Week, usually in October.

You’ll find award-winning fine dining galore in York. However, when it’s tea, cake or burgers you’re after, friendly eateries await around every corner.

Few cities can rival York’s mix of cafés. As eclectic as they are welcoming, these gems offer every sort of snack and meal to replenish the weary shopper and sightseer.

Many visitors are determined to include a trip to Bettys Café Tea Rooms in St Helen’s Square, braving the queues to enjoy the luxury liner interior and a fruity Fat Rascal scone with a pot of Yorkshire tea.

York’s first cat café opened in 2019, and is a great family favourite. The Cat’s Whiskers is home to friendly felines to learn about and fuss over while you enjoy coffee and cake.

Perhaps the most unusual venue of all is Bar Convent, home to the 56 | Welcome to York

Bettys Café Tea Rooms in St Helen’s Square boasts a luxury liner interior

sisters of an ancient religious order.

Established as a school for Catholic girls in 1686, the surviving Grade 1-listed building dates back to the 1760s, and includes a top-notch café. It’s not the only café found in an unusual location. The Perky Peacock is a coffee shop housed inside a round, medieval tower on the banks of the River Ouse.

Gatehouse Coffee is located in Walmgate Bar, the only gateway still with its own Barbican.

There’s a real talking point inside Bean & Gone Coffee, at Bootham Bar – a glass floor, which shows the Roman street and wall beneath.

And, if you ever wondered what it was like dining in luxury during the golden age of steam locomotion, the Countess of York is for you. A beautifully restored railway carriage in the National Railway Museum, it serves up afternoon tea and dinners for pre-booked groups.

If music is more your thing, head to Micklegate. FortyFive Vinyl Café serves up light lunches and snacks

©ANDREW HAYES WATKINS/ROOTS YORK; JASON BATTERHAM/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

to a soundtrack of vinyl records, and you can browse and buy old and new albums too. Crumbs, found on beautiful College Street next to the Minster, is no mere café, but rather a ‘cupcakery’. With a choice of classic and deluxe flavours, this is serious treat time.

Café No. 8 Bistro has enjoyed rave reviews from locals, and earned itself a place in a national newspaper’s list of best cheap eats.

An unusual menu, stylish interior and summer garden are three good reasons to eat at No. 8. On the same street, Osbornes @ 68 often displays works by local artists on its walls, while Rae & Webb serves coffee, cake and brunch all day.

When it comes to street food, York was a late developer. But this is changing. Spark:York, the box park created on Piccadilly in 2018, houses small businesses inside converted shipping containers. As well as shops, Spark offers a whole variety of food and drink options.

You can take your pick, and then

eat at one of the tables in the central area or on the first floor.

The kiosks in Shambles Market serve up some terrifically tasty lunches. Tuck into everything from authentic Italian lasagne to sweet and savoury crepes, to Indian and Thai street-food specials. Some of the foodie businesses serve their wares out of converted horseboxes, including the Aussie-inspired Dark Horse Espresso Bar. And the Taylor Made Kitchen is always chalking up rave reviews.

There are many places to bite into a burger, but one of the best is Burgsy’s, on Castlegate. Its first restaurant opened in Whitby in 2015 – and three years later, TripAdvisor reviewers voted it the second-best burger bar in Britain.

Its American-themed York venue delivers the same combination of locally sourced meat allied with their home-made sauces.

Staying with the US theme, Fancy Hank’s offers a taste of the hospitality served up in

the Southern states, complete with slow-cooked gumbo and jambalaya. You’ll find it on Goodramgate.

Steak and alehouse The Whippet Inn has a quirky interior and a menu made up of beef and fish dishes. Within a year of opening, it was named Best Restaurant in the Visit York awards, so the North Street venue is worth checking out.

York has one of Britain’s best chippies. Millers Fish & Chips, in Haxby to the north of the city centre, took the title of Fish and Chip Shop of the Year in January 2018. Meanwhile, traditionalists will love fish and chips at Drakes Fisheries, on Low Petergate.

Thanks to the explosion in York’s culinary experiences in recent years, you can eat your way around the world along with savouring local flavours. And, with new cafés and restaurants opening all the time, you’ll always find something scrumptiously innovative, no matter how often you visit. ■

Roots York Restaurant Welcome to York | 57

WEEKENDER

Only here for the weekend? Fear not! Here are some ideas for a memorable short break

DAY ONE

Start your day off by heading for the National Railway Museum to see the finest collection of trains and rolling stock anywhere in the world.

Admission is free and it caters for train enthusiasts of all ages!

However, a trip to York wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the magnificent Minster, the largest Gothic cathedral north of the Alps.

Don’t forget your camera to capture the breathtaking views at the top of the tower. Grab some lunch at a traditional tea room or recharge at one of the stylish eateries in the Quarter.

After you’ve eaten and you’re ready for an afternoon of exploration, take a stroll down the cobbled Shambles, York’s most photographed medieval street.

Make sure to visit The York Ghost Merchants, where you can buy your very own ghost, be aware there are often queues down the street to get into this very popular shop.

Then make your way to JORVIK, the ever-popular Viking museum.

Here you will travel back in time to experience the sounds, smells and images of the city of Jorvik in AD 975. State-of-the-art capsules fly you over and through the city and even take through the houses and bedrooms of the people of Jorvik.

Feeling peckish? You can rest your legs and indulge in a delicious afternoon tea at Bettys Café Tea Rooms, and don’t forget to pick up some treats to take home – you won’t regret it! Wander past the impressive Clifford’s Tower, then step back in time at the awardwinning York Castle Museum.

Sip a drink by the river whilst you decide in which of York’s excellent

58 | Welcome to York

restaurants to dine. After dinner, join one of York’s infamous ghost walks or take an evening cruise down the River Ouse.

DAY TWO After a hearty Yorkshire breakfast, walk a stretch of the historic City Walls and enjoy views of the city from a different perspective.

For those brave enough, a trip to

©KARL MORAN/UNSPLASH

the York Dungeon can be a chilling experience.

If gruesome, scary places aren’t for you, visit some of York’s tucked-away treasures.

Barley Hall is a restored 15thcentury townhouse in Coffee Yard, one of the city’s snickelways that reflects life in medieval York, whilst Fairfax House in Castlegate houses an outstanding collection of Georgian furniture, silver and ceramics.

Put yourself a picnic together from one of York’s many tempting

You can enjoy an evening cruise down the River Ouse

delis and take a ride out to Castle Howard, home of the Howard family. The castle is situated in 1,000 acres of absolutely breathtaking parkland, there is plenty to explore and children will love to play in the adventure playground.

After a busy day, choose from one of York’s quality restaurants and enjoy fantastic food. Following dinner experience some warm Yorkshire hospitality and handpulled ales at one of the city’s pubs. ■

Why not try a boat trip on the River Ouse?

Welcome to York | 59

Culture vultures assemble! This city offers the perfect mix of galleries, museums, exhibitions and festivals

Culture Club

York Theatre Royal

Whether you’re looking for some family entertainment or highclass art, there’s something for you in a city with a cultural tradition stretching back a millennium or two. Choose from two major theatres and a national music centre. Discover exquisite art galleries and a year-round calendar of fabulous festivals.

York is truly one of the North’s top cultural hotspots. No matter what time of year you visit, York’s performing arts scene takes centre stage at glamorous theatres and beloved festivals.

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York folk have been theatregoers for centuries. The city’s famous Mystery Plays were major medieval box office hits. Revived for modern audiences in the middle of the last century, the lasting appeal is a done deal. Street performances of the mystery cycle of plays are held every few years on wagons around the city centre.

For year-round entertainment, York has two major theatres and several smaller venues, providing electrifying drama, comedy and music. York Theatre Royal has been entertaining folk since 1744.

Staging its own productions of classic and modern plays, it also welcomes stand-up comedy, dance and children’s shows. Smaller productions are staged in the Studio theatre. A more intimate space, this is the venue for everything from experimental productions to oneman shows.

In a previous incarnation, The Grand Opera House brought Laurel and Hardy and Charlie Chaplin to York. Today, the emphasis remains firmly on mainstream entertainment, whether it’s musicals or family shows.

York Art Gallery

©HUFTON AND CROW/YORK THEATRE ROYAL; KIPPA MATTHEWS/YORK MUSEUMS TRUST

Community theatre flourishes in York. Built by the founder of the famous chocolate factory opposite, the Joseph Rowntree Theatre stages some high-quality theatre, dance and musicals by local groups.

And Theatre@41, housed in a former Methodist church Sunday school building on Monkgate, hosts professional and amateur companies.

Theatre & film The Riding Lights Theatre Company tours its productions nationally from its base at the Friargate Theatre, and has a thriving youth company. York also likes a laugh and hosts all manner of comedy throughout the year, featuring everything from star stand-ups to local sketch troupes.

The biggest names come to either the Barbican or Grand Opera House. The likes of Sarah Millican, James Acaster and Romesh Ranganathan have had sell-out audiences in stitches in recent years. More intimate comedy gigs are found in The Crescent, promoted by the Burning Duck Comedy Club and others.

Movie buffs will love York. It now has no fewer than 32 screens in four cinemas. Cineworld York opened in York’s new stadium at Vangarde in December 2019. Featuring a giant IMAX screen, the 270° ScreenX

viewing experience and two VIP screens with reclining seats, it offers a new level of movie-going comfort.

Right in the heart of town, City Screen Picturehouse lives in an award-winning waterfront development, which incorporates some of the old York Herald newspaper offices. Like its building, City Screen’s programme is an attractive mix, featuring box-office hits, independent pictures and regular Q&As with filmmakers.

You’ll find it just off Coney Street.

The Everyman group now operates the beautiful 1930s former Odeon building in Blossom Street. With large, comfortable seats and new food and drink options, Everyman York shows everything from modern blockbusters to indie classics.

The University of York is the place for classical concerts, chamber music, recitals and jazz. Events take place in the Sir Jack Lyons Concert Hall on the Heslington campus to the south of the city. There’s a thriving jazz scene in York. Venues regularly welcome live sessions, including the Cross Keys and the Phoenix Inn. The Black Swan is the place to go for a folk music fix.

No venue can match York Minster, of course. It regularly hosts choirs, medieval music and organ recitals Plus, the cathedral’s grand organ was given a £2 million

refurbishment in 2021. The latest programme is always available on their website.

One of the city’s cultural highlights is the Aesthetica Short Film Festival. Running across a week in November, it screens hundreds of mini movies from across the globe at venues around the city, as well as talks and workshops by leading filmmakers.

There’s no doubt that York loves books. As well as being home to many independent bookshops and the largest antiquarian book fair in the country, the city stages the York National Book Fair every September. Throughout the year, the city hosts spokenword and poetry events, notably those staged by the Say Owt collection of performance poets in various venues.

York has a wonderful acoustic space in the National Centre for Early Music. It hosts both the York Early Music Festival and Christmas Festival every year, and stages many different concerts and forms of music making to delight audiences.

Art galleries It’s hard to get enough of the art and history on display across York’s fascinating museums and galleries.

To get to York Art Gallery, you walk past the fountain in Exhibition Square and under the imposing statue of William Etty. He was the Victorian artist who helped save York’s Bar Walls when the council wanted to tear them down. Best known for his nudes, Etty also painted landscapes and portraits.

Many of his pictures are in the city’s spacious and impressive art gallery.

They are in good company.

Its collections, which include paintings by Lowry and Turner, have been awarded ‘designated’ status for their national and international importance. The first floor of the gallery houses the national Centre of Ceramic Art, and outside you’ll find the art garden.

This is a tranquil space in which to enjoy visiting sculpture and other outdoor exhibits. The visiting exhibitions are of a high standard.

In the past, collections by Tracey l Welcome to York | 61

62 | Welcome to York

Viking Centre to see rare shoes and coins, along with experiencing history via innovative displays.

York’s long and proud rail history is on fine display at the National Railway Museum. You can check out the steam-age locomotives and get up-close to interactive exhibits that kids and big kids alike love to see. If you prefer aircraft collections, visit Yorkshire Air Museum. You’ll see war planes like the Spitfire and early craft such as the Cayley Glider.

Described by Simon Jenkins in his book England’s Thousand Best Houses as ‘the most perfect 18thcentury townhouse I have come across anywhere in England’, Fairfax House has been stunningly restored by the York Civic Trust. It’s home to an outstanding collection of Georgian furniture, silver, ceramics and clocks, and also hosts regular visiting exhibitions.

The Yorkshire Museum

©YORKSHIRE MUSEUM

Emin and Thomas Gainsborough have been brought to York.

Elsewhere, look out for exhibitions staged at York’s various independent art galleries. Discover According to McGee on Tower Street, a gallery which specialises in contemporary art. Tattoos and advertising iconography feature at the Art of Protest Gallery. Simply hit the shops to find unique treasures from local and international artists.

Museums With a couple of millennia to discover, York is perfect for exploring the past. The Yorkshire Museum features fossil displays highlighting Yorkshire’s Jurassic World. You’ll meet Alan the Dinosaur, the name given to a fossil that’s regarded as the oldest sauropod dinosaur found in the UK. See the York Observatory in the Museum Gardens. Built in 1833, it’s the oldest working observatory in Yorkshire.

Step back in time at York Castle Museum, quite literally as you walk across the recreation of a Victorian street. This is a family-friendly favourite with curious objects like the Automaton Clock with moving figures from the 1780s.

Don’t miss the collection of Miniature Marvels featuring good luck talismans and amulets. Delve into Viking history at the JORVIK

The Yorkshire Museum has fossil displays of Yorkshire’s Jurassic past

Art & architecture A short drive from town, Beningbrough Hall is well worth a visit by art lovers. Its partnership with the National Portrait Gallery sees it bring wonderful classic and contemporary pictures to the historic house. Portraits of Dame Judi Dench, Alan Bennett and Amy Winehouse have featured in the past.

Being compact and mostly flat, York is the perfect walking city.

And perhaps the best way to get to know the incredible history and architecture of York is on foot, with an expert guide leading the way.

Even better, there are free twohour walking tours hosted by the Association of Voluntary Guides from Exhibition Square, with extra evening walks in summer.

Other organisations stage specialist walks around. For example, York’s Roman history, its heritage as a confectionery city or its secret passages. Ask for more details at the Visit York Information Centre on Museum Street. So, whether you’re looking for inspiring art, spellbinding drama, a myriad of music – or just some good oldfashioned belly laughs – you’ll be inspired and entertained during a cultural trip to York. ■ Welcome to York | 63

The night-time economy in York is thriving, packed with clubs, pubs, bars and live music venues

After dark

The Grand Opera House

York is a magical place at night.

Wonderful old buildings like the Minster and Guildhall take on a new beauty when lit up against the darkness, while the centre buzzes with pubs and people. There’s plenty of choice for the night owl.

York pubs are full of character – and full of characters. If you dare, take the terror trail on one of the ghost walks.

Add to that the live-music venues and nightclubs, and you can have several nights out in one evening. Fancy a dazzling night of entertainment? York knows how to 64 | Welcome to York

put on a show to suit everyone.

Follow the tunes to live music venues dotted around York for a toetapping night. The Habit often hosts open-mic nights promoting the city’s singer-songwriters to discover new talent. Plus, there’s a seriously cool roof terrace. In 2019, it opened a sister venue, Rehab Piccadilly.

This funky café bar boasts escape rooms in the basement.

Music is a key theme of Jimmy’s, the rock’n’roll bar run by two brothers who moved into hospitality after finding chart success with their own band, One Night Only. Want to

go gigging? Grassroots enterprise The Crescent describes itself as ‘York’s independent DIY venue’.

Housed in a former working-men’s club, it hosts an array of events, from live music to club nights, and comedy to family-friendly shows.

The York Barbican brings every kind of music to the city, from classical orchestras to chart-topping pop stars. The Grand Opera House regularly stages popular tribute nights, while The Black Swan, Peasholme Green, is home to the Thursday night Folk Club. It’s one of numerous pubs that stages gigs,

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testament to York’s animated livemusic scene. Check out the schedule at the Fulford Arms too.

Impossible York opened in the large and historic Terry’s café building in St Helen’s Square following a £3 million investment.

As well as a tea room on the ground floor, it has a cocktail bar and restaurant, and plays host to all manner of live performances, from live music to burlesque shows.

For every type of play, book a ticket for a show at the ever-popular and historic York Theatre Royal, where you’ll also find children’s shows. Along with live music, The Grand Opera House welcomes audiences to a grand interior for theatre. It’s the county’s biggest theatre and features a star-studded line-up of West End musicals and comedy shows.

Pubs & bars Some pubs don’t need actual entertainment to be entertaining.

A number of York pubs lay claim to being the oldest, and they’re all worth a visit. Infamous highwayman Dick Turpin is said to have fled through an upstairs window of The Red Lion, though why he didn’t stay for a pint or two is a mystery. A downhill passage from Pavement brings you to the Golden Fleece pub, which, they say, is frequented by dozens of ghostly patrons. Witches, meanwhile, used to gather inside the timber-framed Black Swan, on Peasholme Green.

Another ancient pub advertises its presence via a sign stretching across Stonegate, proclaiming Ye Olde Starre Inne. It was here that the Royalist landlord refused to serve a pub full of Roundheads during the Civil War. But they let bygones be bygones there now.

The gas-lit Guy Fawkes Inn is said to be the birthplace of the infamous plotter.

Further along the same street of High Petergate was the Lamb & Lion Inn, now The Fat Badger.

Literally part of history, it is built into Bootham Bar and the City Walls, and possesses the finest beer garden in York, perhaps in England. Another venue with

The Grand Opera House is the County’s biggest theatre

plenty of history is The Judge’s Lodging, a large building set back from Lendal. This used to host visiting judges when they came for the York Assize Courts.

Reputed to be the most haunted city in Europe, York has enough misshapen old buildings and narrow alleyways (known locally as snickelways) to give the toughest sceptic goosebumps. The list of spirits attributed to various corners of the city is ever expanding, which means there are plenty of spooky stories to go around for half a dozen or so ghost walks. Scary and funny by turns, they’re a great way to get to know the seedier side of York’s history. Look out for the posters and placards around the city centre advertising the various walks.

And, if you don’t fancy walking, there’s a ghost bus, and even ghostly river cruises…

From a turn on a neon-lit dance floor to sipping creative cocktails in classy bars, York’s nightlife keeps you up all night… if that’s the plan.

If you love hopping from venue to venue to start you off, there are lots of pubs and bars lining the cobbled hill of Micklegate, including craftbeer revolutionaries BrewDog. At the bottom of the street, you’ll find Jalou, serving fabulous cocktails inside a converted church. Brew York serves its own ales at its Walmgate HQ. The beer hall also serves a selection of 40 beers, alongside food from its purposebuilt kitchen.

Hop to The Hop to combine great beer and home-cooked pizza with

live music on the weekend. The pub has been a hit from the moment it opened. There are plenty of different spaces and nooks to discover in the Eagle & Child, found in a 17thcentury timber-framed building on High Petergate.

Lawrence Street’s The Rook & Gaskill is smaller but still manages to offer as many as 20 keg and 10 cask beers. And it also prides itself on its renowned chilli menu.

You can tell that The Keystones is aimed at the younger crowd. When this handsome pub, next to Monk Bar, reopened, it came complete with retro gaming stations and USB points. Head here for live DJ sets on the weekend.

Even York’s most famous street, Shambles, has got in on the nightlife action. What was an ordinary café has developed into Shambles Tavern, selling a range of real ales, which you can enjoy in its small outdoor seating area.

Independent venues The multi-award-winning The Maltings, on Tanners Moat, is a must for its unmatched selection of beers and home-cooked food served from the Dragon’s Pantry.

Finally, the city has two genuine community pubs. The Golden Ball, Cromwell Road, and the Angel on The Green, Bishopthorpe Road. Both are owned and run by people from their respective neighbourhoods.

This guarantees a particularly warm and friendly welcome.

What makes this city such a pleasurable night out is its range of independent pubs and bars.

The quirky Cave du Cochon offers more than 60 wines from small vineyards, and 10 cheeses, it is like a little corner of France relocated to Walmgate.

The Market Cat boasts some of the best views of any venue in the city. A three-storey bar, its first floor looks over the stalls on Shambles Market, while the top floor has an epic vista across the rooftops to York Minster.

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a basement off Feasegate. Inspired by a 1940s New York-style secret drinking joint, it offers some highly original cocktails.

Pavement Vaults, a ‘progressive beer, smoke and barbecue canteen’, is run by local heroes the Pivovar Group, who own two more of the city’s best pubs, Pivni, on Patrick Pool, and the York Tap, at the railway station – as well as being joint owners of The Market Cat. For many years, discerning city drinkers have gathered at House of the Trembling Madness, found in a beam-lined building on Stonegate.

In 2018, the local team behind that bar opened an altogether grander sister venue on Lendal. Extending over five floors in a Georgian mansion, Trembling Madness is all about the beer – and the food that goes with the beer.

Valhalla, in the narrow street of Patrick Pool, is a Viking-themed bar. The brainchild of two friends with a shared love of everything Norse, it expanded over two more

floors in 2021, complete with skulls and wrought-iron chandeliers.

Pairings is the creation of a couple of sisters, and has become one of the most popular wine bars in York. As its name suggests, Pairings is all about encouraging people to try unusual food and drink combinations, such as charcuterie with vermouth.

And, keeping with the sibling theme, The Fossgate Social was opened up by a brother-andsister team in 2014. This small café bar is now an established community gem, thanks to good food and drink, live music and local exhibitions. To enjoy a flavour of modern York, try one of the popular independent bars dotted around The Quarter, a fashionable maze of streets near Stonegate.

If you fancy rounding off the evening by dancing to the latest tracks, then head to Club Salvation in Rougier Street. Despite long rumours about it being closed to make way for new development, the

club and its laser-lit dancefloor are still going strong.

Kuda is found in the same building as York Dungeon in Clifford Street, but offers an altogether less gruesome style of entertainment. It sprang back to life in 2021 with new owners and new management and has been a go-to nightlife venue ever since!

If you’re looking for a place to party, try Popworld in George Hudson Street, which has York’s only revolving dancefloor, and is open daily till 3am. A similar experience awaits at Flares, in nearby Tanner Row, where the DJs play party anthems from the sixties onwards.

York might not quite rival New York as the city that never sleeps, but it certainly wins in the ‘haunted pub’ stakes. This lively and welcoming city ensures there’s something for all night owls, from fabulous theatre shows to chic bars for nightcaps to top off brilliant days. ■

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Although this city has more than enough to keep you busy, a journey further afield can make for an exciting new adventure

Time to explore From Harry Potter and Brideshead Revisited to the Brontës, Captain Cook, James Herriot and Heartbeat Country are just a few good reasons to venture beyond York’s City Walls.

Or you may just crave open spaces, big skies and fresh air. On the doorstep of York are two National Parks – the Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors, as well as the golden beaches, picturesque fishing villages and dramatic cliffs, coves and headlands of the stunning North Yorkshire coast.

The North York Moors National Park, northeast of York, covers 1,432sq km of North Yorkshire scenery, including 42km of coastline and 1,609km of footpaths and bridleways. Farmed dales dissect England’s largest expanse of continuous heather moorland, rich in wildlife.

The Yorkshire Dales To the west of York, the Yorkshire Dales National Park is the finest area of upland limestone country in Britain, with pastoral valleys, limestone cliffs, gorges and flowerrich hay meadows.

Along Yorkshire’s coastline, every cliff face, cave, cove and village harbours stories and secrets – of smugglers, the great explorer Captain Cook, even of Count Dracula. Whitby is steeped in historic charm, its narrow, cobbled streets and picturesque, pantiled houses stand on the steep slopes of the River Esk, dominated by the ruins of the cliff-top abbey, said to have been the inspiration behind Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

The broad twin bays and mighty headland of Scarborough, dominated by the gaunt remains of Scarborough Castle, make an impressive, panoramic setting for 68 | Welcome to York

North Yorkshire’s largest seaside resort and historic spa town.

Head into the North Yorkshire Moors towards Pickering. Take a trip on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway – moving into Heartbeat Country. Enjoy 18 miles of stunning scenery in the North Yorkshire Moors National Park, stopping at picturesque stations such as Goathland and Grosmont en-route.

Heritage properties Yorkshire boasts a fantastic range of heritage properties. Enjoy Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal in Ripon. Take a wellearned lunch break and brewery tour at Masham, courtesy of the Black Sheep Brewery, before continuing with a visit to Newby Hall and Gardens. This is one of England’s finest houses with award-winning gardens.Or enjoy a taste of the Yorkshire Dales with a trip over to Harewood House, home to the late Queen’s cousin, the Earl of Harewood. The house, with its outstanding art collections, splendid State Rooms and fascinating ‘Below Stairs’ exhibition, is set in spectacular landscaped grounds, which include formal gardens and gentle woodland walks, a Bhutanese Stupa, waterfall and a stunning Himalayan garden.

Wartime Britain You can stop off in Knaresborough or Harrogate for the afternoon and a spot of retail therapy, or follow the trail of destruction left

by World War II with a visit to the award-winning Eden Camp at Malton. Experience the sights, sounds and smells of life during wartime Britain.

Move on to the Yorkshire Air

Yorkshire Dales National Park is the finest area of upland limestone country in Britain

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Museum at former RAF Elvington.

This is one of the largest Second World War Bomber Command Stations open to the public. British, French and Canadian aircrews flew to missions on the continent from here. You can visit the control tower and sit in a cockpit of a Jet Provost or Canberra.

Inspiring gardens Why not take a take a visit to the tranquil Burnby Hall Gardens in Pocklington to the east of York?

Home to the National Collection of

Yorkshire Dales National Park

Waterlilies. There are more than 80 varieties to be spotted in the two lakes.

Or try one of Yorkshire’s most relaxing, yet inspiring locations – RHS Garden Harlow Carr. The 58-acre garden includes streamside garden, vegetables, scented herb and foliage gardens, woodland and wildflower meadow. The gardens also host some spectacular family events and festivals all year round along with extensive plant centre, gift shop and Bettys Café Tea Rooms. ■ Welcome to York | 69

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