Magic Lower Silesia

MAGIC

LOWER SILESIA FULL OF TREASURES AND SECRECTS

BY KINGA CZERNIK - PREPARED WITH A HUGE HELP OF LS INSIDERS: RENATA NIŻAŁOWSKA & ROMA JASTRZĘBSKA

LOWER SILESIA

LIVING ON THE BORDERS • Kingdom of Poland Kingdom of Bohemia and the Austrian Habsburg Monarchy (since 1526) Kingdom of Prussia (since 1742), which became German Empire in 1871 after 1945 Poland again

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

LOWER SILESIA

UNDERSTANDING THE AREA • In Teheran in Nov 1943 Stalin declared that he wanted to confirm his annexation of eastern of Poland part to Russia (USRR)

• In Potsdam in summer1945 the above was confirmed and instead the wester border of Poland was moved to Oder-Neisse lane (drew by both rivers) • 7 million people were moved in 1944-1950: 2 mln from Russia, 0,5 mln to Russia, 2,5 mln Germans were repatriated, 1 mln Germans escaped before Russian organized moves, 1,6 mln were related to moves Poles staying in Nazi Germany as forced labor there

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

HISTORY IN SHORT:

WROCŁAW

• Budorgis was mentioned in 2nd century

• Ownership - Polish (11th century), Czech, German, Polish • Blooming in 16th century

UNDERSTANDING THE CITY

• OVERWRITTEN TOWN (prof. K.Ruchniewicz) • Poles, German, Czech, Jews living next each other • Flood in 1997 united Wrocław inhabitants

WROCŁAW FLOOD JULY 1997

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WROCŁAW BRIDGES •

The town of 100 bridges – actually, there are more than 130

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Before WW2 there were 303 bridges and footbridges

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WROCŁAW BUNKERS •

Over 500 of bunkers are shelters from even napoleonic times are around Wrocław

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WROCŁAW 4 DENOMINATIONS DISTRICT •

also called the District of Mutual Respect with four temples: Evangelical, Jewish, Catholic and Orthodox

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

WROCŁAW ŚWIDNICKA PIWNICA It is the oldest restaurant in Europe, working constantly from 1273 – end 2017 (to be reopen in 2020)

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

WROCŁAW UNIVERSITY OF WROCŁAW, MAIN BUILDING – COLLEGIUM MAXIMUM •

The longest baroque façade in the world – planned 200m, built 171m

AULA LEOPOLDINUM

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

WROCŁAW OSTRÓW TUMSKI • The oldest part of the city, with Cathedral and Botanical Garden • Nicolaus Copernicus lived there in the years 1503-1538 when he was in the scholastic Wrocław’s Church of the Holy Cross • The Wrocław Lamplighter lightens 103 gas lamps everyday at dusk and extinguish every morning

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

WROCŁAW THE CENTENNIAL HALL (HALA STULECIA) – UNESCO SITE • Built in 1911-1913 • is an outstanding example of early Modernism and the innovative use of reinforced concrete structures in the building industry. At the time of its construction, it was the largest ever reinforced concrete dome in the world with an inner diameter of 69m and 42m high (and spire of 90,3m height)

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

WROCŁAW JAPANESE GARDEN • founded in the years 1909–1913 as an exotic garden for the Centennial Exhibition • renovated twice in 1995-1997 and 1999 after flood in 1997

WROCŁAW DWARVES • The real history – Waldemar Frydrych, Major was the first who drew a dwarves as a one of activity of Orange Alternative during Martial Law • Manifesto: „The Thesis is the [antiregime] Slogan, the Anti-thesis is the Spot and the Synthesis is the Dwarf”

• www.orangealternativemuseum.pl

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

WROCŁAW DWARVES • The new history – Orange Alternative movement was so well known, that dwarfs were used to promote the city, but ...

• 382 dwarves as of today... but tomorrow there will be more...

• www.krasnale.pl

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

WROCŁAW THE ANONYMOUS PEDESTRIAN • Its original was the installation of Kalina from

1977 “Passage” (that is why the sculpture is also known by this name) • The Sculpture of Anonymous Pedestrian (Pomnik Anonimowego Przechodnia) was showed for the first time in 2005, the author did not change the project, the people wear the clothes from the 70s.

WROCŁAW CHRISTMAS MARKET THIS YEAR (2019):

NOV 21ST – DEC 31ST

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MOUNT ŚLĘŻA • During the Neolithic Period and at least as far back as the 7th century BC Mount Ślęża was a holy place of the heathen tribes of the Lusatian culture • Mount Ślęża was an ancient holy place for local tribes dedicated to a sun deity, and remained a holy place during Christian times as well • Sculpture of bear is probably Celtic origin

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

BOLESŁAWIEC POTTERY • Bolesławiec was established in 1202 • The first written records about pottery made there dates from 1380 • To make Bolesławiec pottery you need only 4 universe: Earth, Wind, Water and Fire • Cobalt blue pigment is still used, and it was the only safe glaze for humans for years

• There are 22 pottery manufacturers (factories) in Bolesławiec and closest area

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

BOLESŁAWIEC TRAIN VIADUCT • one of the longest viaduct in Europe • made of limestone • length: 490m, height 26m, width: 8m • number of spans: 35 • built in 1844-1846

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BOLESŁAWIEC BOROWSKI GLASS STUDIO • glass manufacture for hand blown and hand-crafted glass • using almost forgotten techniques for engraving on cameo glass and self-made tools • www.borowski-studio.com

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

JAWOR, ŚWIDNICA PROTESTANT CHURCHES OF PEACE – UNESCO SITE • Built in second half of 17th century • The buildings couldn’t be constructed within the city walls, look like the existing temples, or have towers

• The structure is supported on a wooden framweork filled with straw and clay briquettes.

• No even one nail was used

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

MUSKAUER PARK PARK MUŻAKOWSKI – UNESCO SITE • The park sits astride the Lusatian Niesse River (Nysa Łużycka) which also marks the border between Poland and Germany • It is one of the most outstanding garden landscaping in Europe, designed at the beginning of the 19th century • This is the only cross-border park in the world

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

STOŁOWE (TABLE) MOUNTAINS • The mountains are in Poland, Czechia and Germany.

The Polish part is protected as the Stołowe Mountains National Park • The range is formed of sandstone and, as the only one in Poland, presents plated structure with sheer mountain ledges • Two massifs are most famous: Szczeliniec Wielki with the labyrinth and Devils Kitchen and Hell in there • Błędne Skały (Errant Rocks) with several notable rock formations, among them Hen, Camel, Monkey, Horse Head, Great Grandfather's Armchair, Liczyrzepa,(who scares irresponsible tourists) • The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian were filmed in Stołowe Mountains

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

BEAR CAVE (JASKINIA NIEDŹWIEDZIA) • This is the longest cave in Sudety mountains • Total length discovered so far: 3km

• Inside the cave was found rich bone material of Pleistocene animals mostly mammals like brown bear (900kg of weight), cave lion, hyena, wolf, wild boar • Europe’s largest underground chaamber is here – the Mastodon Chamber can accomodated a ten storey buiding or a football stadium (but it’s not open to public yet)

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

URANIUM MINES, KOWARY • Uranium was discovered in Kowary in 1920s, but the biggest interest came after 1945 • Soviet Union signed the aggreemen with Poland about cooperation, but it became secret Soviet mine very soon, and Kowary dissapeared from the maps • The mining stopped at the end of 1970s • At least two mines are now open to publin – Liczyrzepa, Podgórze

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GOLD MINE, ZŁOTY STOK • The first record of mining works conducted here comes from 1273 • In 15th century The Fugger family (main shareholders) were supporting Spanish Queen Isabela with their gold, who could thus finance the expedition of Christopher Columbus, resulting in the discovery of America • Starting from 17th c. for over 100 years, Złoty Stok became a major global supplier of arsenic (recovered from arsenic ore) • during more than 700 years, approx. 16 tons of pure gold were excavated in Złoty Stok

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WAŁBRZYCH GOLD TRAIN •

The so-called Nazi gold train and Wałbrzych gold train concerns a local legend of a Nazi Germany-era train buried in a tunnel between Breslau (Wroclaw) and Waldenburg (Walbrzych) in May 1945 during the last days of WW2

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In late August 2015, news stories began circulating about two unidentified men who had obtained a death-bed confession about a buried gold train

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In August 2016, despite outside expert opinion that no train existed, team of 64 people, including engineers, geologists, chemists, archaeologists and a specialist in military demolitions start digging] The excavation reportedly cost €116,000 and was financed by private sponsors, and with the help of volunteers.

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The dig was halted after 7 days when no tracks, tunnel or train were found

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

PROJECT „RIESE” •

construction project of Nazi Germany in 1943–1945, consisting of seven underground structures located in the Owl Mountains and Książ Castle

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the structures were part of the Führer Headqurters or a combination of HQ and underground arms factories

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The construction work was done by forced labourers, prisoners of war, and prisoners of concentration camps (i.e.

Gross-Rosen, Auschwitz), and many lost their lives mostly as a result of disease and malnutrition.

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

KSIĄŻ CASTLE • The largest castle in Silesia (third in size in Poland after Malbork and Wawel) • Built in 1288-94 by Silesian duke Bolko I the Stict

• The last owners The Hochberg family lived there from 15091940 • In 1941 the Nazi regime confiscated the castle

• Sons of the last owners fought against Hitler: Hans Heinrich XVII in the British forces, and Alexander in the Polish army • Part of the Riese Project was built underground during WW2

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

PALACES AND CASTLES VALLEY - DOLINA PAŁACÓW I OGRODÓW • 760 castles and palaces around Jelenia Góra only 10% are rebuilt Castles on the right (with hotels): • Moszna Castle • Palace on the water, Staniszów

• Wojanów Palace • Paulinum Palace

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

CZOCHA CASTLE • Built in mid 13th century by Czech king Wenceslaus I of Bohemia (Wacław) • In 1319 was taken over by Polish dukedom of Henry I of Jawor • After WW2, was ransacked by Russian Army and then in early 1950s was the home for Greek refugees • Recently, the castle has been used as the setting of the College of Wizardry, a LARP that is based on Harry Potter books • Well of unfaithful wives

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

MAGICAL CASTLES CHOJNIK CASTLE • originally raised by the order of Duke Bolko I the Strict in 1292 • The legend of Kundegund

GRODNO CASTLE • Buit by the order of Duke Bolko I the Strict • Sgraffitos were added in 1904 • Ghost of White Lady is visiting the castle during the night

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VANG CHURCH KARPACZ • Wang Church was built at the turn of 12th century in Vang, southern Norway • The church was bought for the sum of 427 marks by the then king, Frederick William IV and supposed to be shipped to the Royal Museum in Berlin via Szczecin • But instead in the spring of 1842 the church was moved to the Karkonosze Mountains so that it could be of use to the Lutherans living in Karpacz and area • Built from Norwegian pine without a single nail

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KUDOWA ZDRÓJ •

It is one of the oldest spa resorts in Poland and Europe

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the first spa towns in Germany where heart and circulatory system diseases were cured

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After WW2 Germans were expelled and Polish settlers expelled from Easter Poland came, but for a small group of Czech and German who stayed a German-speaking school existed until 1960, and a Czech-speaking school until 1955

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Since 1962 Kudowa-Zdrój hosts the annual International Moniuszko Festival, dedicated to the "father of Polish national opera” Stanisław Moniuszki

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Skull Chapel from 1776 century is nearby, in Czeremna. Built with 3000 skulls and bones of 21000 people died for 18 years of cholera, syphylis, plaque, wars, hunger

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

DUSZNIKI ZDRÓJ • In 1748 the first research of mineral springs was carried out, and in 1751 spa treatments began • In 1769, the town obtained the status of a spa town • In 1826, 16-year-old Frederic Chopin visited the spa. He was cured there and gave his first concert outside of the Russian Partition of Poland, which was also his first charity concert • The 17th century (1605) paper mill is one of the most architecturally valuable industrial monuments in Europe – now Museum of Papermaking

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

CRYSTAL FACTORY JULIA • Josephine Glassworks was founded in 1842 on the orders of Silesian family of Schaffgotsch • Since then traditional techniques are used • At present (in Polish family hands since 2006) the glassworks produces mainly for export, to most demanding markets, to which about 80% of crystal glass works of arts produced in Julia goes

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KŁODZKO • Initially established as a settlement in the 10th century, it is one of the oldest towns in Poland • Gothic bridge built 1280–1390 – often called a „Charles Bridge in miniature".

The bridge survived a flood in 1997 • The fortress – a unique stronghold on a high rock overlooking the city, first erected on this spot in the 9th century.

During the reign of King Frederick the Great, it was one of the largest fortresses in Prussia • City tunnels from 13th century

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

OLGA TOKARCZUK • in October 2019 she was AWARDED THE 2018 NOBEL PRIZE IN LITERATURE

• Lives in Dolny Śląsk, in Krajanów near Kłodzko • In 2018 won the Man Booker International Prize for her novel „Flights” (translated by Jennifer Croft)

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

ŚNIEŻKA • It is a mountain on the border between Czechia and Poland • At 1,603m, its summit is the highest point in the Czech Republic • The first historical account of an ascent to the peak is in 1456, by an unknown Venetian merchant searching for precious stones

• In 1800 John Quincy Adams, US president-to-be climbed on top, but also wrote a poem published in 1804

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019

... AND THERE IS STILL SO MUCH TO DISCOVER...

• More castles and palaces • Wrocław Zoo and Hydropolis, ...

• More mines and museums (i.e. Phillumenist Museum), ...

• Cross country and downhill skiing areas, hiking trails • Arboretum in Wojsławice

• Wineries • ... Literally.... hard to specify all...

Kinga Czernik, ASW Culture Club, 11/2019