Ragù alla Bolognese

ground with a mortar, hence the name. Mortadella contains very specific ratios of meat and fat, as well as A Food Tour of EmiliaRomagna myrtle berries, black pepper, nutmeg, pistachios, and sometimes green olives. No comparison can be made between this delicacy and American bologna. Mortadella is an IGP product, so its origins are verified; it can be produced in all of Emilia Romagna. It’s no wonder that Bologna is called La Grassa, which literally means the fat. Don’t be put off by this moniker as it refers, not to fat content, but to the wide array and bounty of delicious food Bologna offers. I recently read that the flavors and aromas of traditional cuisine are deeply ingrained in the Italian psyche. This may account, in part, for the high standards for food the country takes as given. As an American, I am always overwhelmed by the freshness and quality of their hyperregional diet. Arriving for this trip on the cusp of artichoke and asparagus season, I often found these vegetables featured on a menu. However, when I tried to order them, I got a rueful shake of the head. Because they were slightly past prime, they could no longer be served. In America we expect the foods we want to eat, which are not always aligned with the seasonal bounty offered up by the Earth. What a difference this makes in a meal. ——————————— BOX Many Italian products have protected status. This is largely to combat the worldwide problem of food forgery. The U.S. is one of the worst offenders, especially when it comes to the sale of imitation Italian products. The EU’s food and wine certification system helps combat these misconceptions; production of specialty products are man-

RECIPE

Ragù alla Bolognese

(adapted from the Accademia Italiana della Cucina recipe)

This iconic meat sauce is traditionally served over fresh egg tagliatelle, which can be made from scratch or purchased fresh from a specialty store. Note: ground beef is never used in Italian ragù.

While most recipes call for minced meat, it is traditional for a whole piece of beef to be hand chopped with a knife. The recommended cut is thin flank or skirt steak.

INGREDIENTS

1 lb. fresh tagliatelle pasta 3/4 lb. minced beef 1/3 lb. unsmoked pancetta - finely minced (optional) 1 medium carrot finely chopped 1 medium stalk celery, finely chopped 1/2 cup finely chopped onion 1/4 cup Italian tomato paste 1/2 cup white wine (white is traditional, but some cooks prefer red) 3/4 cup whole milk Olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS

1. In a heavy bottomed or cast iron pot, heat olive oil until shimmering. If using pancetta, gently fry pancetta until it starts to release its fat. Do not burn. 2. Add the chopped sofritto (carrots, celery and onion) and cook until onions are transparent, stirring occasionally. 3. Add beef and cook until lightly browned. 4. Add tomato paste and wine and mix well. 5. Gradually add milk, stirring until completely absorbed. 6. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Cover and simmer for 3 to 4 hours. (If necessary, add more milk to maintain consistency.) 7. Serve over tagiatelle, cooked al dente. (A small amount of butter can be tossed into the pasta prior to adding the ragù.) 8. Pass Parmagiano-regggiano to grate.