Edible Orange County Endless Summer 2018

A Member of Edible Communities

Endless Summer 2018 No. 29

Feeding Orange County

In Season

Taste of the Nation

Vegans

edible

Contents Endless Summer 2018

8 Features

In Each Issue

8

4

Editor’s Note

6

In Season

12

Vegans Rising

By Michele Jacobson

Second Harvest: Feeding Orange County

By Jim Hathcock

By Gina Mullins Cohen

By Gina Mullins Cohen

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Special Report:

18

The Fit Foodie at the Taste of the Nation

By Mareya Ibrahim

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Editor’s Note edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

Hidden in Plain Sight Most people when they think of children going hungry, don’t think of Orange County, California. The perception of the Orange County is one of wealth and celebrity, surfing and sunshine. The first and the original Housewives series was born here, several of the richest neighborhoods in the country are here (Corona del Mar, Newport Beach, Coto de Caza) and celebrities from both stage and screen can be found in almost every community.

But tucked in the canyons dividing the glamour from the beaches and hidden in cars parked in countless parking lots throughout this sprawling maze of Spanish tile roofs and gated estates with swimming pools, are people struggling with poverty and hunger.

According to Feeding America, there are 4,574,710 people suffering with hunger in California - and of them 1,731,270 are children, but thanks to the dedication and hard work of feeding organizations such as Second Harvest Orange County Food Bank, more and more families and individuals do not have to worry about their next meal This issue of Edible Orange County takes a deliberate look at hunger in our communities. Writer Jim Hathcock, interviews Second Harvest’s Barbara Wartman on how this organization feeds over 301,000 people in Orange County, giving them not just nourishment through healthy food, but also the hope that their lives can move beyond the restrictions so often coupled with hunger.

Also highlighted in this issue, is the Taste of the Nation No Kid Hungry event, an annual fundraiser, held in May at the Montage Laguna Beach. This year Orange County residents, entertainers and Edible Orange County’s columnist Mareya Ibrahim (the Fit-Foodie) took part in the activities. Participants sampled special dishes prepared by famed local chefs, as well as tasted one-of-a kind wines and premium spirits.

DONATE N0W More important, however, was providing support to those in Second Harvest Food Bank need. Beneficiaries this year included Second Harvest Orange Of Orange County County Food Bank and Community Action Partnership of 8014 Marine Way Orange County.

Irvine, CA 92618 After reading this issue, I hope there is a better understandPhone: 949.653.2900 ing and greater awareness of the importance that nutrition Fax: 949.653.0700 brings to our lives. Research shows children that suffer from Online: feedoc.org/give-now/ hunger have more social problems and more learning disabilities than those that are food secure.

The understanding should not stop with this issue. Please, act now and help end hunger in Orange County. It is a first step to ending hunger in our country and one day, perhaps the world.

There is a lot to be thankful for this summer, here in Orange County and I hope each of you countless summer nights of delight under the stars and while you are enjoying the summer and all that the Orange County has to offer, don’t forget to eat good food, laugh a lot and choose to be happy.

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Orange County® Published by Eclipse Media Partners, LLC Editorial Staff Gina Mullins-Cohen Editor gina@edibleoc.com 310-721-3093 | 949-315-6445 Bill Cohen Editor: Arts and Culture 310-721-3093 | 949-315-6445 info@edibleoc.com Robert D. Mullins Investigative Reporter Editor info@edibleoc.com 310-721-3093 | 949-315-6445 Kim Mabon Creative By Design Creative Director kim@creativebydesign.net 951-226-5617 Moe Goode Web Master info@edibleoc.com Digital Magazine Producer Creative By Design klewis@creativebydesign.net Advertising Gina Mullins-Cohen Publisher gina@edibleoc.com 310-721-3093 | 949-315-6445 No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher ©2017. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

–Gina Mullins Cohen 4 Endless Summer 2018 www.edibleorangecounty.com

In Season

Endless Summer

By Gina Mullins-Cohen

Kohlrabi Lettuce Apples Melons Avocados Mushroom Basil Mustard Beans (Green) Nectarines Beets Okra Broccoli Onion (Dry) Cabbage Onion (Green) Carrots Passion Fruit Cauliflower Peaches Celery Pears Chili Pepper Pears (Asian) Grapefruits Peas (Black-eyed) Lemons Valencia Oranges Peppers Persimmons Collards Plums Corn Potatoes Cucumber Raspberries Eggplant Sapote Figs Spinach Grapes Squash (Summer) Kale

JULY

Squash, Winter Strawberries Tomatillos Tomatoes Turnips AUGUST

Apples Asparagus Avocados Basil Beans (Green) Beets Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Cherries Grapefruits Lemons Valencia Oranges Collards

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Corn Cucumber Eggplant Figs Grapes Kale Kohlrabi Lettuce Melons Mushroom Mustard Nectarines Okra Onion (Dry) Onion (Green) Passion Fruit Peaches Pears Pears (Asian) Peas (Black-eyed) Peppers Plums Potatoes Raspberries Sapote Spinach

Kale Kohlrabi Lettuce Mushroom Mustard SEPTEMBER Nectarines Apples Okra Asparagus Onion (Dry) Avocados Onion (Green) Basil Passion Fruit Beans, Green Peaches Beets Pears Brussels Sprout Pears (Asian) Cabbage Peas (Black-eyed) Carrots Peppers Celery Persimmons Chili Pepper Plums Grapefruits Potatoes Lemons Raspberries Oranges Valencia Oranges Spinach Squash (Summer) Collards Squash (Winter) Corn Strawberries Cucumber Tomatillos Eggplant Tomatoes Grapes Guava (Pineapple) Turnips Squash (Summer) Strawberries Tomatoes Turnips

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RIS

Vegans

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ISING

By Michele Jacobson

Grant me the liberty to say it’s a relief that the Paleo movement is finally waning. While meat consumption is a personal choice, too much meat - as in all meat, all the time - is inconsistent with healthy dietary guidelines. The healthiest diets of the world call for occasional consumption, as with the Mediterranean diet; or condiment-sized portions, as with traditional Asian diets, the protein perched atop a bowl of steaming rice and vegetables. Certainly not a brontosaurus-sized steak covering three-quarters of a plate as with

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the Standard American Diet. Bad for your health, bad for the planet, and most definitely bad for the animal. But as my mother used to say, the pendulum always swings.

Veganism is an eating trend on a worldwide upswing. The strictest definition of a vegan is someone who does not consume any animal products whatsoever, including honey, and also refrains from wearing animal products, including leather, fur, wool, silk and feathers; replacing them instead with cotton, linen, hemp and manmade materials. The vegan philosophy rejects the commodity status of animals.

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Why The Upswing?

People have many motivations for “going vegan,” but the impetus is usually one, or a combination, of the following:

Yet, many remain confused about the vast and reverse the progression of cardiovascurange of eating terms. Vegetarians do not conlar disease. Lifelong vegans are less likely to sume meat, chicken or fish - “anything with suffer from chronic illness, and also have a a face” - but do eat eggs and dairy products.

57% lower risk of death from heart disease Those who follow a plant-based diet focus on than non-vegans. Compelling data. A Harhealthy, whole foods, such as vegetables, fruits vard School of Public Health study found that The pursuit of and whole grains, and either greatly reduce people who ate red and processed meats were optimum health, or exclude animal products, such as meat, much more likely to die from heart disease, fish, eggs and dairy. This is more of a lifestyle diabetes, or cancer, but study participants choice, but not always necessarily vegan or who ate plant-based foods instead of meat vegetarian. Flexitarians are meat-eaters who had a significantly lower risk of dying young. have cut down on their consumption of aniHowever, “going vegan” isn’t simply about mal flesh, generally for health purposes; sort cutting out animal products. It’s imporStanding up for of like part-time vegans. tant to eat a bountiful diet so your body animal rights, or Ours is not to judge. gets all the nutrients it needs, especially Statistics indicate that the vegan moveprotein, iron and vitamin B-12. The plant ment is here to stay. The percentage of world is replete with these nutrients, but Americans who identify as vegan has grown many who adopt a vegan lifestyle simply from 1% in 2014 to 6% in 2017, and while eliminate entire food groups. The best way that may be a small percentage, it still signito be a healthy vegan is to buy wholesome, Concern for environmental fies a definite trend. Nestlé, the largest food whole foods and cook for yourself, as ofsustainability. company in the world, has disclosed that ten as possible. This is also a frugal way to 39% of its customer base wants to replace eat! Ingredients should include fruits, nuts, meat in their diet with plant-based foods.1 The $16 billion alternavegetables, grains, beans, rice, whole-grain pasta, and healthy, unrefined fats. tive milk market is a clear reflection that 36% of U.S. consumers Vegan packaged foods are not without their pitfalls. Many innow prefer a substitute for dairy milk. clude sub-par or highly processed ingredients, the same as with The trend is global. In many European countries the percentage other packaged goods. As always, read labels carefully and avoid adof those who identify as vegan registers in the double digits, while ditives, even if a product is labeled “vegan,” “organic,” or “natural.” in China the government has encouraged its’ 1.3 billion people to reduce their meat consumption by 50%.3 According to Google Trends, the top five vegan hot-spots are Berlin, Los Angeles, WarAnimal Rights saw, Taipei, and New York City, while emerging vegan regions are Since 1980, the organization PETA has Israel, Australia, Canada, Austria, and New Zealand. The world is been working to raise awareness on issues on a vegan roll. surrounding animal cruelty, providing information on veganism, the elimination Optimum Health of animal textiles, and using only “cruelApproached properly, a vegan diet is inty-free” products that have not been tested on animals. Accordcredibly healthy. According to the Ameriing to PETA, (which stands for People for the Ethical Treatment of can College of Cardiology, by adopting a Animals), for every vegan person, 198 animals are saved each year. whole-food, solely plant-based (vegan) diet Technically speaking, the animals are neither saved nor spared, but one can not only prevent, but also halt rather fewer are “produced” in order to be slaughtered for food.

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People dedicated to animal welfare are committed to a lifestyle that does not cause suffering, harm or death to animals in any way.

Even high-end clothing designers cater to the tenet of “vegan fashion.” One is British designer Stella McCartney, a lifelong vegetarian, whose mother, Linda McCartney, was an animal rights activist and the originator of Meatless Mondays. “Vegan leather” accessories are now fashionable, and as the market expands, so do the alternatives.

Recent documentaries such as What The Health, Forks Over Knives, Cowspiracy, and Food, Inc. have sought to expose horrific animal conditions that exist in the industrialized food industry, inspiring many to renounce meat and explore a vegan lifestyle. Americans are developing a conscience about their diet and continue to edge toward ethical eating.

Save the Planet Perhaps the most compelling reason to adopt a vegan diet is not for personal or animal welfare, but out of concern for our planet. Mass food production causes most of the Earth’s environmental issues, for a variety of reasons. One major problem is the emission of methane and nitrous oxide, greenhouse gases that contribute to global warming. Food production sources of these gases are rice fields, cattle, animal waste, landfills, fertilizer and manure.2 Methane and nitrous oxide are more than 20 and 250 times more powerful than carbon dioxide. A recent study in Science magazine shows that adoption of a plant-based diet would cut food-related emissions by between 61% to 73%, a monumental and almost immediate impact.4 Livestock also require a vast amount of land, food, energy and water, taking a massive toll on our planet. Consider the following statistics: • Beef production uses 11,000% more land than legume production.

• Producing one liter of cow’s milk creates double the emissions and uses almost two times as much land than the same amount of soy milk.

• 80% of all Amazon deforestation is for cattle raising, also contributing to habitat loss and species extinction.

• It takes 2,400 gallons of water to produce 1 pound of meat, but only 25 gallons to produce 1 pound of wheat; a hundred-fold difference.

• 35% of the worlds grains are fed to livestock.

So-called sustainably-sourced animal products, also known as low-impact products, typically exceed the environmental impact of vegetable substitutes. A plant-based diet requires only one-third of the land needed to support a meat and dairy diet. According to the Science study, this provides further evidence for the importance of dietary change.

On a planet with dwindling resources and an ever-growing population, those who follow a vegan diet believe they are doing good for the environment by adhering to a sustainable lifestyle, and indeed this is supported by hard data.

Why Veganism Is Here To Stay What was once a fringe movement has now gone mainstream.

Some analysts believe veganism was jolted forward by social media platforms, such as Instagram, where recipes, restaurants and other information is easily and widely disseminated. As the word spread exponentially, sometimes via celebrities and professional athletes, it’s become clear that a vegan diet is not about sacrifice, but about empowerment, with no loss of food choice, nutritional power, or performance on the playing field. The current vegan movement is about people taking charge of their own health, and choosing a diet that helps them achieve their goals, without giving up the foods they love. Veganism is not a phase, it’s a worldwide wave. https://www.livekindly.co/nestle-vegan-industry-growth/ https://foodrevolution.org/blog/vegan-statistics-global/ 3 https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF00748940 4 http://science.sciencemag.org/content/360/6392/987 OR 1 2

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SECOND FEEDING ORANGE COUNTY

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HARVEST: W

hen you drive down Orange County’s freeways, past the Irvine Spectrum, South Coast Plaza or Fashion Island, you see parking lots filled with luxury cars.

Lines of people wait to be served at fast-food eateries.

Others wait for their cars to be parked by valets as they arrive for their reserved seats at $80- $125 per plate restaurants. www.edibleorangecounty.com

Story and Photos

by Jim Hathcock

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But just below the visible affluence, more than 300,000 Orange County residents can’t afford the food they need. Orange County’s high housing costs make it hard for low-income households to buy the food they need. Thanks to the efforts of Orange County’s Second Harvest Food Bank, fewer residents go to bed hungry each night.

“What many people don’t realize is that hunger in Orange County reaches far beyond the homeless and the unemployed.

Boxes of fresh corn will be distributed to Orange County families in need.

Orange County’s high housing costs make it hard for low-income households to buy the food they need.

Orange County’s high housing costs and substantial underemployment create much of the problem,” says Barbara Wartman, director of marketing and public relations for Second Harvest Food Bank, Orange County.

“According to a recent survey, nearly 50 percent of the students in Orange County’s public schools only get two meals a day,” Wartman says. “Our Kid’s Cafe program provides afterschool meals for more than 2,500 kids under the age of 18 in Orange County.”

Barbara Wartman of Second Harvest proudly stands next to bags of carrots that will be part of nutritious meals for those in need in Orange County.

14 Endless Summer 2018 www.edibleorangecounty.com

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GET D! INVOLVE

DONATE FOOD

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It’s not just the kids who are suffering.

High housing costs and insufficient income also cause 45 percent of Orange County seniors to seek assistance from Second Harvest, Wartman said. Gradual improvement in the California economy has helped in recent years. During 2012, 349,000 Orange County residents lived below the poverty level (About $20,000 in annual income for a family of four.)

The number increased from 349,000 or 11.7 percent in 2012 to 395,000 or 12.8 percent in 2015. It decreased to 385,000 or 12.5 percent in 2016, according to US Department of Census Data. At the end of May, 2018, Second Harvest Food Bank estimates Orange County still needs to help 301,000 residents put food on their tables. And they continue to make progress.

We can turn $1 into three adult meals.

And 90 percent of every dollar we get goes to feed the hungry.

Each day, dozens of large trucks deliver food to a 122,000-square-foot building at 8014 Marine Way in Irvine.

The warehouses located in what formerly was the El Toro Marine Helicopter Base.

Additionally, some 26,000 volunteers, a number exceeding the total employment of Disneyland, help to sort and deliver food to more than 250,000 Orange County residents in need. Along with the volunteers, some 85 paid employees coordinate the efforts of providing food each day for more than 250,000 Orange County residents.

“We have tremendous support from stores and individual contributors,” Wartman says. “We have 200 partners, such as the Orange County Rescue Mission and the Salvation Army, who help distribute food those in need here in Orange County, adding that more than 200. But the best contribution people can make is cash. We can turn $1 into three adult meals. And 90 percent of every dollar we get goes to feed the hungry.”

Specially designed trucks that look like a cross between convenience markets and food trucks transport 5,000 pounds each to low-income communities in Orange County. Second Harvest Food Bank of Orange County also delivers fresh groceries to senior and low-income community centers.

“Thanks to increases in donations and volunteers, we have maintained service to 250,000 individuals in need here in Orange County over the past three years.

We provided food for 21.6 million meals in 2017. But we need to provide another 30 million meals to close the hunger gap here in Orange County,” Wartman says.

Nearly all the large grocers serving Orange County such as Albertson’s, Ralphs, Costco and Smart & Fina, regularly donate produce, meat and canned goods to the food bank. “We have a fleet or 14 trucks that pick up from the grocery stores on a regular basis,” Wartman says. “If we can continue to reach out to donors and volunteers and build support, hopefully, we will eliminate the meal gap (the number of people who aren’t eating three meals a day) in Orange County by 2025.”

In order to accomplish that goal, more volunteers, donations and education are needed. “There are still a lot of people in need that don’t know how to reach us,” Wartman said.

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The Fit Foodie

TASTE OF THE NATION BRINGS THE STARS OUT IN THE OC

BY MAREYA S. IBRAHIM Mareya Ibrahim is The Fit Foodie. She is the creator of EAT CLEANER® and the Cleaner Plate Club, teaching families how to enjoy cleaner, safer, longer lasting fresh food. She is also a featured chef on “Everyday Health’s Recipe Rehab” and hosts “Fit Foodie” Fridays on Channel 6 San Diego. This time of year, she can’t get enough of golden beets, butternut squash and Branzino.

S

ome people have their pre-game rituals to ensure the forces are with their team.

I have a ritual I follow when I know I’m in for a massive culinary experience – my favorite kind of sport.

I get a good workout in that morning so I’m ready to eat. I put on an outfit that doesn’t allow my stomach to protrude too much if I overindulge, which means there are usually Spanx involved. I park my car as far away as possible, so I can get a good

last-minute walk on and peak my appetite to make room for an extra few bites. And last-but-not-least, I make sure my phone has plenty of room for photos because I know that IG story is going to be poppin’.

On an impossibly clear and sundrenched day on the lawn at the Montage Laguna Beach Hotel overlooking the glimmering ocean, I pushed my Ray-Bans down my nose and took a deep yoga breath as I scanned the food stations. The energy was palpable.

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Wine pouring. Glasses clinking. Food sizzling. Convivial laughter. Dessert stacked high. Small plates of sublime flavors spread deep. And at the helm of each station, renowned chefs brought their A-game to bring people together to give back.

Nearly 500 guests gathered for the 11 th annual Taste of the Nation event in Laguna Beach to raise money for the Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry program, established to end childhood hunger in the U.S. by ensuring kids start the day with a nutritious breakfast and helping families to create healthy meals on a budget.

I’ve been to my fair share of foodie events but this one hit close to my heart. Having worked with over 30 school districts in California alone to help bring freshness and flavor to school menus, it’s startling to learn just how many children will eat their only hot meal at school. A collection of talent like this coming to the table to collectively give back is one that suggests that California’s culinary rockstars really could change the face of hunger when you learn the event raised almost $250,000.

OC’s well-heeled came out fierce to support what I would call the best food scene we’ve seen here yet. www.edibleorangecounty.com

Nearly 500 guests gathered for the 11th annual Taste of the Nation event in Laguna Beach to raise money for the Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry program.

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The Fit Foodie

Above left: Scallops in umani glaze with candied kumquats and sunchokes by Chef Craig Strong, the Studio at the Montage.

Center: Mareya Ibrahim, the Fit-Foodie, enjoying one of the many desserts offered at the event.

Right: Enchanted by white roses? Try a slice of this heavenly cake.

Chef Brian Huskey of Tackle Box in Corona Del Mar made yellowtail the star of his two-bite crispy tostadas,

The Montage’s own Studio Chef Craig Strong served the meatiest seared scallops I’ve ever seen, dressed in a rich umami glaze, flanked by candied kumquats and sunchokes. They were so luxurious and tender I almost felt guilty for taking three. Almost.

Chef Amar Santana, master of the kitchen at Broadway by Amar Santana and his newest endeavor, Vaca in Costa Mesa – turned out a perfectly executed Charcoal Grilled Spanish Octopus, topped with paella “granola” and saffron aioli foam that underscores his playful but flawless approach to fusing flavors and textures.

Chef Brian Huskey of Tackle Box in Corona Del Mar made yellowtail the star of his two-bite crispy tostadas, topping each with just enough spice in the Soy Wasabi Ceviche saucy, greenery and ripe mini heirloom tomato to make each one feel like the perfect oceanside cantina experience but way fancier.

When I approached Chef Joe De Sasto of Cal Mare in LA, I just wanted to play with the ends of his mustache, waxed and curled in two perfect loopety-loops. Instead I helped myself to two servings of his Green Garlic Zeppole,

Right: Chef Craig Strong, representing the Studio, at The Montage with Tom Nelson, President of Share Our Strength 20

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The Fit Foodie

The Montage Laguna Beach’s assistant pastry chef, Julia Browne, deserves a standing ovation and encore performance for her eye popping and equally mouthwatering sweet sweep.

Chef Amar Santana, of Broadway and his newest venture, Vaca, serves up Charcoal Grilled Spanish Octopus to guests.

perfectly puffed bites that are traditionally sweet made savory when filled with stracciatella cheese and topped with a generous dollop of salty Tsar Nicoulai caviar. He did promise to share his grooming tips with me for another story.

Just when I thought I had reached maximum satiation without feeling like the pig on Electric City Butcher’s table – who by the way, is one of the only nose to tail butchers around and make an impressive selection of antibiotic and hormone-free charcuterie, sausage and cut-to-order-meats in Santa Ana – I rounded the corner into the Studio to find my kryptonite.

I’m someone who practices, writes and teaches a balanced eating approach, and I’m always looking for the produce-forward, clean protein, low starch, zero sugar-added options. But put a collection of cotton candy colored macarons with just the right proportion of creamy filling to almond flour cookie bite and you have me cornered.

Now add a stack of tiered princess cakes, a gelato bar and jewel box cups filled with strawberry shortcake and I’m like a not-yet-set Jell-O mold. Just throw in the good stuff and let it sink to the bottom.

The Montage Laguna Beach’s assistant pastry chef, Julia Browne, deserves a standing ovation and encore performance for her eye popping and equally mouthwatering sweet sweep. Now, do you understand my pre-game strategy?

I never made it to the after party, but I heard Chef Ryan Adams Fried Chicken sandwiches with slaw, pickles, chilies and spicy aioli – soon to be debuted at Buttermilk Fried Chicken in Old Towne Orange were awesome along with a glass of Veuve Cliquot.

If I were you, I’d start planning for next year’s event now. Get your tickets, prime your appetite, secure your Spanx and prepare your palate for some serious tickling. And know you’re making a difference in the lives of those who need it most. That’s a win-win.

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FALL 2014

A LOCAVORE THANKSGIVING HOTEL DINING: AN INSIDER’S GUIDE

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THE WEIRD AND WONDERFUL ISSUE faux cheese ∙ food on the fringe ∙ the odd bits NATIONAL CAPITAL REGION • KINGSTON • PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY • EASTERN ONTARIO

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CELEBRATING THE ABUNDANCE OF LOCAL FOOD IN AMERICA’S FARM-TO-FORK CAPITAL

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Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 42 • July-August 2017

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ISSUE 47 MARCH / APRIL 2017

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LUCKY DOG RANCH

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COOKS CSA Cooking with Chef Felmley Farmer Sandra Broussard Cooks Fresh Fisherman Dan Major and Local Box Crab Young Baker Gets Creative with Cupcakes Exploring Imperial Beach

FRESH START MARCH / APRIL 2017

ISSUE 21 • SPRING 2014

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

5

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695880 - Cover Toronto

N O. 39 JA N UA RY/ F E B R UA RY 2 018

695880 - Cover Toronto

24 HARVEST 2014

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VA N C O U V E R

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N O. 2 S P R I N G 2018

WESTCHESTER

Stay up to the minute on all things Edible.

Everything Delicious, from the Hudson to the Sound

E A T. D R I N K . R E A D . T H I N K .

ISSUE THIRTY TWO • AUTUMN 2013

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