Kilgore Trout Magazine F/W 2013

FALL FASHION

CATCH CABIN FEVER DESIGNERS GET PERSONAL NORTH COAST MUST-HAVES JOURNEY TO PERU

welcome

The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are.”

— Joseph Campbell

THE SHOPKEEPER REPORT Wally and the world of wonder.

O

ur daughter Betsy climbs Machu Picchu with National Geographic photographers, exploring one of the new seven wonders of the world. Meanwhile, I strap on a helmet, flag down a pace car, and do a few laps at Laguna Seca at 200 miles per hour. Exhilarating for sure, but hardly holds a candle to the achievement of a driven, idealistic 17 year old. Teens like Betsy, along with her 20- and 30-something counterparts—young men and women quickly making names for themselves in business, technology, science, social service and the arts—are pushing boundaries, and along the way are offering teachable moments for the rest of us. They’re telling us to step outside our comfort zones and brazenly blaze new paths by living with intent, loving with gusto, and exploring the wonders of the world.

Meeting and working with these new young clients is invigorating. They’re eager to take advantage of the rebound in the local job market, and are building smart wardrobes for their first careers or moves up the ladder. Contrary to some news reports, they’re optimistic about the future. We’re optimistic, too. Following last spring’s trunk events—the best in our 36 year history—and your continued strong response to the modern silhouettes and talented new designers we’re carrying, we’ve chosen to stretch and grow in new ways. So while we’ll always focus on our “captain of industry” core clients, we’ll also be expanding the choices for these new men and women dressing for the new economy, and for those living self-employed or creative lives. One case in point is Strong Suit, a new men’s line with a trim, modern sensibility. It’s as easy on the wallet as it is to wear, with confident cuts and precise tailoring for guys on their way up the ladder. In northern Ohio, it’s exclusive to Kilgore Trout. We look forward to seeing you soon.

Wally Naymon, shopkeeper

Two highlights of the recent Apparel Forum meeting were visits to the 18th hole at Pebble Beach, and the chance to chat with Bob Corliss, president and CEO of Robert Talbott, at the Laguna Seca raceway. Robert Talbott sponsors Ohio’s own Sean Rayhall, the number-one ranked U-21 race car driver in the world. Sean swept the Prototype Lites field in the 2013 American LeMans Monterey.

We’re proud to be one of only 13 members in this elite group of independent menswear retailers.

Our visit to the Robert Talbott factory in Carmel reinforced why we love this true American luxury brand. We watched tailors transform handcut shirting fabrics into pressed-and-ready Robert Talbott shirts, bound for our store, and we were in awe as a master artisan demonstrated how the Seven Fold tie is crafted. The Seven Fold is a throwback to an era when tie makers didn’t replace silk with linings of wool or canvas to cut costs, and a fine tie was made only of 100 percent silk, folded back on itself seven times to create a fluid drape, a straight hang, and shape-holding durability.

28601 Chagrin Blvd.

Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 kilgoretrout.com facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

FEATURES 2 Welcome Letter 6 In Store: Upcoming Events 26 Peru Through the Lens of Betsy Naymon 58 Fitness: Hit the Mat 64 Art: Reexamining Walt Kuhn

MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

FASHION

Christine Sullivan

7 32 38 40 42 44 48 54

Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

Fresh Cargo Designers: Talking to the Talent Profile: Doriani Profile: Rag & Bone Profile: PT01 1 Suit. 7 Ways.

Log House of Style The Fall Guy

DEPARTMENTS 28 30 36 62

Ask Forum for Him Ask Forum for Her Man of Style: All About Al World Scene

APPAREL FORUM

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2013. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

FALL/WINTER 2013

ATTENTION TO DETAIL is what has turned Eton into one of the world’s finest shirt makers. Founded in 1928 by husband and wife Annie and David Pettersson, Eton’s dedicated belief in quality and craftsmanship has helped spread their story from the small village in Gånghester in the west of Sweden to some of the world’s most exclusive stores. Today, Eton is still run by the Pettersson family and remains loyal to its heritage as a specialist shirt maker.

celebrating 85 years of fine shirt making 1928–2013

SEPTEMBER 20 AND 21 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MADE-TO-MEASURE

Andrea Stringhini, our made-to-measure specialist from Ermenegildo Zegna, will be in store to introduce the latest collection of fabrics for fall. We will also offer an extensive collection of samples for suits, jackets, shirts and knitwear, plus an enhanced selection of the Z Zegna collection. Call or email your sales consultant to set your personalized appointment.

OCTOBER 11 AND 12 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY

SAMUELSOHN MADE-TO-MEASURE

Save 10% on your Samuelsohn made-to-measure order placed at this event.

Dorian Anderson will be in store with the new fall swatches from Samuelsohn, plus New England Shirt Company, w. kleinberg luxury leather accessory collection, and the latest from Magnanni footwear.

OCTOBER 26 SATURDAY

THE ITALIAN GETAWAY

One lucky Kilgore Trout shopper will win an Italian getaway!

It’s la dolce vita as Kilgore Trout and the Italian Trade Commission host a shopping event celebrating the singular style, extraordinary fashion, and old-world craftsmanship of Italy.

Enjoy tasty Italian food and beverages, shop expanded collections from our Italian designers, and one lucky shopper will win $6,000 toward a personalized Italian getaway courtesy of Kilgore Trout, the Italian Trade Commission and DaVinci Custom Travel & Tours.

Watch your mail for your invitation and complete details!

MORE MEN’S AND WOMEN’S EVENTS TO BE ANNOUNCED Like us at facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland or subscribe to our email updates at kilgoretrout.com to always be among the first to hear about upcoming events, sales and promotions.

WHEN YOU NEED US, WE’RE HERE. CONTACT US ANYTIME AT 216.831.0488, OR EMAIL YOUR SALES CONSULTANT DIRECTLY: Wally Joe Paula

wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com jaugustine@kilgoretrout.com pbradley@kilgoretrout.com

Andrea Joel Cheryl Laura

anaymon@kilgoretrout.com jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com cmacmaster@kilgoretrout.com lmarotta@kilgoretrout.com

Kristen kbruhn@kilgoretrout.com Meaghan mcarreras@kilgoretrout.com Sandy info@kilgoretrout.com

KILGORE TROUT INSIDER

PRE-SEASON OFFER

$499.90 (THROUGH OCTOBER 12)

IMAGES: ANDREW MCALLISTER

in store

UPCOMING EVENTS

Tailored exclusively for us, this Kilgore Trout soft jacket in wool tweed has a removable inset napa leather vest—perfect for those late fall Cleveland “not quite” days. You know the kind: not quite cold enough for an overcoat, not quite warm enough for an open jacket. We arranged this special buy to retail at $598. But to get you prepared for the “not quite fall and not quite winter” season, we’re offering it to Forum readers at $499.90.

(A larger photo of the jacket can be found on page 10.)

KILGORE TROUT AUTUMN 2013 MUST-HAVES

Him: GRAN SASSO cardigan, RAG & BONE sport shirt, AG Matchbox jean Her: 360 CASHMERE skull sweater, HUDSON jean in plaid

ANDREW MCALLISTER

CHRISTOPHER HIXSON

ANDREA NAYMON | JOE AUGUSTINE

Her: RAG & BONE dress, DANNIJO necklace Him: BOGLIOLI jacket, GIANETTO PORTOFINO washed cotton shirt, PT01 khaki trousers, JOHN VARVATOS Hipster chukka

Him: ISAIA wool/cashmere jacket, cotton shirt, wool plaid-effect trouser, GRAVATI loafer Her: SOH cashmere turtleneck, CITIZENS OF HUMANITY stretch legging

KILGORE TROUT soft jacket with napa vest insert, PAUL SMITH stripe shirt, MASON’S New York plaid cotton trouser

DORIANI cashmere sweater with suede trim

Left: SOH wool cardigan with matching hooded shrug (available separately), CITIZENS OF HUMANITY stretch legging Right: KELLY WEARSTLER top and leggings with attached skirt

LUCIANO BARBERA light quilted jacket, MASSIMO ALBA camel hair v-neck sweater, white cotton shirt, and cotton velvet jean

ETRO mixed-media navy knit blazer, cotton shirt, silk pocket square, soft cotton plaid trouser, and scarf

Her: FUZZI printed gauze dress, GAI RUSSO necklaces Him: SAND jacket and washed merino sweater, ISAIA shirt, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA pocket square, AG Matchbox corduroy jean

Him: SAMUELSOHN sportcoat, GRAN SASSO merino v-neck sweater, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA shirt, BREUER wool tie, INCOTEX Z\WLY Z ÅHUULS [YV\ZLY Her: ELIZABETH AND JAMES blouse and printed stretch jean, DANNIJO necklace

SAND velvet dinner jacket, ETON shirt, ITALO FERRETTI necktie, HILTL ZSPT Ä[ ÅHUULS QLHU

Left: GIMO’S vintage leather jacket, MASON’S brushed cotton shirt, HUDSON supersoft cotton jean Right: CAMPLIN peacoat with zip-out wind collar and rope closure, MASON’S plaid shirt, HUDSON Underground Plaid straight-leg denim with contrast cuff, ALLEN EDMONDS Neumok brogue

Left: BILLY REID ^VVS WLHJVH[ HUK WSHPK ÅHUULS ZOPY[ MASON’S Chicago brushed cotton cargo pant Right: ALLEGRI cashmere coat, BILLY REID Rosedale shirt, AG Matchbox jean in deep red

RAG & BONE hunting jacket, plaid shirt and jean

GARDEUR jeans in autumn colors

MONCLER down jacket, AUTUMN CASHMERE ZR\SS HUK ZUV^ÅHRL Z^LH[LY

CITIZENS OF HUMANITY stretch legging HERNO hooded jacket with toggles

CANADA GOOSE quilted down jacket SOH scarf and stocking cap TRUE ROYAL plaid wool pant

EPSTEIN DESIGN PARTNERS, INC.

The shopkeeper’s daughter explores the land of the Inca.

PERU Betsy Naymon, a senior at Revere High School and an award-winning photographer, is Andrea and Wally Naymon’s younger daughter. These images were captured in the summer of 2012 using a Canon Rebel T3i.

A

gainst a backdrop of the soaring Andes, Betsy Naymon experienced a National Geographic Student Expedition focused on photography and community service.

From exploring Machu Picchu to meeting artisans and shamans, from mentoring by a real National Geographic photographer to eating alpaca (delicious, she says), Betsy was immersed in the culture of Peru. When asked the highlight of her trip, she beamed, “The sites, the food, the people—it was so absolutely incredible, and I’ve never experienced anything like it.”

Betsy’s career goal is to combine her interests in photography and social change. “It’s one thing to hear about an event,” she explains, “but to see an actual photograph of it and to have an opportunity to view first-hand what is happening far from home has left many astounded by the atrocities and issues that would not otherwise affect them in their day-to-day lives.” From the photo of a young African-American being heckled by a group of white peers at the newly segregated Little Rock Central High School to the iconic image of the unknown Tank Man halting a line of Chinese tanks in Tiananmen Square, activism and reform can be driven by photography.

“My hope,” says Betsy, “is to someday join the ranks of the talented photographers who have traveled both abroad and at home to capture the moments that spark society to stand up and make a difference.”

Learn more about the program at ngstudentexpeditions.com

THROUGH THE LENS OF BETSY NAYMON

ASKFORUM

FALL 2013 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

Q:

after dry cleaning. Is there anything I can do about this?

I recently bought some dress shirts with French cuffs. On the inside part of each cuff, there are two I’m tempted to go over the fabric with fine sandpaper but cufflink holes, while on the outside part of the cuffs, just I worry I might make it worse.

Skip the sandpaper and cut back on the dry cleaning. If your suit one. Why?

Q:

Boxer shorts are not working under the new slim pants I’ve been buying. What type of underwear should I try?

We suggest trim boxer briefs in some of the new high-tech fabrics that are moisture wicking, anti-microbial and amazingly comfortable. Try them in fashion colors and patterns if you dare.

Q:

I’ve noticed that my darker, harder-finish wool suits (even the expensive ones) tend to pick up shine

gets soiled, spot cleaning is best; dry clean as infrequently as possible. Other tricks of the trade: buy some good cedar hangers and leave space between suits in your closet; rotate your wardrobe so that you don’t wear the same suit on consecutive days. Most importantly: update your wardrobe with a new suit or two every year or so. With today’s slimmer fits, what’s in your closet is likely to look somewhat dated.

Q:

What’s the proper length for pants these days?

Definitely shorter than they used to be, now that slimmer leg styles are popular. While we don’t recommend showing your ankles (although young trendsetters are doing it!), we do suggest just a slight break to no break at the top of the shoe.

Unfortunately, lots of guys are still wearing their pants with a big break or even a double break: we feel that excess fabric bunched up on slim pants is a bit unflattering.

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COURTESY EDWARD ARMAH

It’s to adjust the tightness of the sleeve, although not all makers offer this option. In any case, kudos to you for wearing French cuffs and cufflinks, adding a touch of class to your sartorial style.

We hope you’re also trying bowties, pocket squares, tie clips and/or boutonnieres, all of which add personality to your executive look.

ASKFORUM

FALL 2013 FASHION TIPS FOR HER

Q:

Skinny jeans have been around for a while now. Will their popularity continue into 2014, or are other denim styles going to replace them?

In terms of silhouette, slim is still in! Rather than turning to new cuts in denim, freshen your look by choosing different materials or embellishments. Try skinny pants in jacquard, rich brocade, ponte knit or leather. If you want to stick with denim, go for black, charcoal, brown or Bordeaux, for a dark, romantic feel.

Moto styling with seamed detail around the knee is also an important trend, as are zippers on ankles and pockets.

Q:

I’d like to incorporate edgier pieces into my outfits, but I don’t want to go overboard. Any suggestions?

Last fall the runways were filled with seasonal prints and colors, but this year’s fashion has a decidedly edgier feel. You’ll see lots of black and charcoal, leather and lace, especially in sportswear. Instead of relying on color to add interest to your wardrobe, do it with detail and texture.

For those who aren’t comfortable wearing a full leather pant or jacket, try garments in other fabrics (lace, felt, cashmere, stretch wool, etc.) featuring panels of leather. Not only will it keep you from channeling a biker chick, but these other fabrics can help keep costs down. And they’ll make the garment more pliable and breathable, so you’ll be comfortable with the way you feel in addition to the way you look.

Beautiful knits with intricate details were spotted in many designer collections this season: think cozy, soft cashmere and chunky knits with a twist. Pair them with a great pair of jeans, and don’t forget to layer with beautiful blouses or soft scarves.

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VINCE MOTO JEAN

Q:

How can I update my sweater wardrobe this fall?

T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R S

designers

TALKING TO THE TALENT Get to know your favorite designers.

By Jillian LaRochelle

WHAT DO YOU NOTICE MEN DOING WRONG IN THE WAY THEY DRESS?

impress anyone else.

Robert Graham’s Robert Stock: They don’t know how to put a jacket on properly. You have to put it on and straighten it out.

It’s always hanging crooked on the shoulders or not laying flat across the chest.

John Varvatos: They think too hard about the uniform and not creating their own personal style.

WHICH NEW ITEMS SHOULD A MAN PURCHASE TO UPDATE HIS WARDROBE THIS SEASON?

Brunello Cucinelli: Men don’t take enough time in the morning to get ready. When men prepare for the day, they should ask themselves what they’re feeling that day, with whom they’re meeting, what they’re planning to do. Men should pay more attention to the clothes they put on every day. The extra 20 minutes will speak volumes about the person they want to be that day.

Eton’s Sebastian Dollinger: Some guys tend to buy the wrong size. In the U.S., the most common mistake seems to be that people buy things way too big. In Scandinavia, on the other hand, it’s generally a case of things being too tight.

Gianluca Isaia: They take themselves too seriously. You must feel confident in your clothing without trying too hard to

Brunello Cucinelli BC: This fall, every man should own the Milano jacket, an ultralight nylon style that he can easily layer underneath his sport-

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ROBERT GRAHAM SWEATER, JOHN VARVATOS BOOTS

Sebastian Dollinger

WHAT’S YOUR GO-TO OUTFIT FOR A FESTIVE HOLIDAY GATHERING?

coat, or over it, depending on the look and the occasion.

SD: Invest in a good pair of shoes for rougher weather and a new crisp white shirt.

GI: One of my favorites this season is the Cortina double-faced wool overcoat. It mixes classic sartorial details with contemporary elements.

Also, the printed Donegal jacket has a very unique look. The fabric uses the latest in printing technology, and it comes with our signature sunglass pocket, measured to the exact dimensions of the original militaryissued aviator.

RS: Don’t underestimate the importance of socks; add a few fun pairs to your wardrobe.

Sweaters are also making a comeback.

JV: A suede jacket and a great pair of boots.

BC: I love wearing our gray cashmere 1.5breasted tuxedo for a special event. This has become my signature and I love the way it makes me feel: formal enough for a holiday gathering, but it’s comfortable enough to wear every day.

SD: My brown leather boots, washed out jeans, and one of our denim shirts.

GI: Isaia denim with a tuxedo jacket.

RS: A few years ago we made a jacket called the Maharaja, embroidered with 25,000 miles of silk thread. Worn with jeans and velvet slippers, it’s perfect for a party.

JV: A timeless black tux jacket with a white formal shirt, a scarf and jeans.

WHAT’S YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE BC: I have five fixes, which I suppose you could call guilty pleasures: cashmere, cognac, chocolate, cigars and Champagne.

SD: I buy shoes and coats that cost more than small cars…

GI: Cannot tell you...my secret vice is a secret!

RS: I’m addicted to the New York Rangers. I’m amazed by how hard the puck is and that it zooms toward them at 120 miles an hour.

JV: Collecting vinyl, especially vintage vinyl records.

ETON SHIRT, ISAIA CORTINA COAT

WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING IF YOU WEREN’T A DESIGNER? BC: I love my work and I have always desired to do this.

SD: I want to run my own hotel one day. The ideal location would be in a forest by a lake.

GI: I would love to be a small luxury hotel keeper.

RS: I would probably be a psychiatrist. I feel like I’m always giving my employees therapy anyway! Or I would have loved to be a drummer.

JV: I love architecture, and of course my real passion would have been to be a musician.

Gianluca Isaia

WHAT WOULD IT SURPRISE PEOPLE TO LEARN ABOUT YOU? SD: I studied particle physics.

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for a getaway.

SD: Esalen in Big Sur, CA. GI: Capri.

RS: I love the Caribbean Islands, I love Italy, I always have a great time in Asia… Since I can recharge in only a day or two, I love spending a few days in a lot of different places all over the world.

JV: The island of Mustique.

John Varvatos GI: Maybe that I like to read mindfulness books, or that in the summer, I wear sandals, handmade in Capri, to make my suits a little less dramatic.

RS: I’m hardworking but I really need my downtime. When I was younger I was into all kinds of Zen meditation, so I’m extremely capable of just unplugging and ignoring everything.

JV: I’m pretty laid back and a bit shy.

WHERE DO YOU GO TO ESCAPE?

Robert Stock

BC: I’m inspired by the fascinating St. Benedict, who advised the abbot responsible for his monks to be both rigorous and gentle, a demanding master and a kind father.

SD: Live now!

GI: It is not possible to buy great style.

Every man must create his own.

RS: I’d just like people to say about me, “He was a good guy.”

JV: It’s only rock ’n roll, but I love it!

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BRUNELLO CUCINELLI MILANO JACKET

WHAT’S A QUOTE YOU LIVE BY?

BC: I like very much to stay at home with my family and my wife, but if I have to plan a trip, I love going to the mountains, especially to the Dolomites in the north of Italy. There you can find beautiful landscapes and nature lives all around you.

In the summer, I love Isola di Cavallo, a small island between Corsica and Sardinia. I stay at the Hôtel and Spa Des Pêcheurs.

This is one place I cannot resist

Intense color and rich texture continue to be the drivers in

2

men’s footwear. Here are just two Kilgore Trout favorites for the coming season: Gravati’s pinchstrap loafer in deep blue suede, and the Giostra 3 in genuine crocodile from Salvatore Ferragamo. Visit our men’s footwear department to discover the entire standout collection.

Standout styles for fall.

St

footwear

Just for kicks

man of style

The biggest decision I had to make this season was cuffs or no cuffs on my pants.

What makes a great weatherman: accuracy or personality?

Obviously it’s a combination of both, but accuracy is more critical than ever these days. With so many extreme weather events recently, getting it wrong can be life threatening. Of course, today’s improved technology enables more accurate forecasting.

As for the personality part, whatever flavor you want, you can find it. Prefer a simple straightforward forecast, just the facts?

You can find it! You want personality and showmanship, you can find that too. With so many TV channels, there’s a weatherman for every preference.

Is it fair to ask your accuracy percentage?

It’s not a good question since I’m now forecasting over such a broad area. When I did local news in Cleveland or D.C. or Syracuse, it was easier because it was a clearly defined geography; now it’s the entire country. But fortunately, when we had Superstorm Sandy and the Oklahoma tornado and those types of severe events, we were pretty much right on target. As our computer modeling improves, so does our accuracy.

ALL ABOUT AL

Here’s what’s happening in Al Roker’s neck of the woods…

By Karen Alberg Grossman

How important are clothes in your life? What are your personal style preferences?

I’d describe my style as fairly traditional: I don’t take major fashion risks; in fact, the biggest decision I had to make this season was cuffs or no cuffs on my pants. (I opted for no cuffs…) But what most distinguishes my style, I suppose, is that I’m not afraid to wear bold colors. I think it’s fun!

For television, I like a tailored look. I used to be a basic blue blazer kind of guy, but as I’ve gotten older, I’ve evolved to more sophisticated Italian clothing. Zegna, Brioni and Kiton are among my favorite suit brands; sometimes I buy custom, sometimes off the rack.

For weekends, I like to wear jeans or khakis with either a polo shirt or a classic woven shirt. (Lately, I’ve been buying checks.) I like easy comfortable sportswear and here, I’m less concerned about designer names.

Who are your fashion role models?

Well Matt Lauer has definitely influenced my style since he always looks so perfect (probably because he worked at an upscale menswear store as a teenager…). If I had to pick a celebri-

36

ty fashion role model, I’d say Daniel Craig and George Clooney. (But how likely am I to ever look like them?)

Actually, a 75-year-old guy who I don’t even know became a fashion role model for me. I had spotted him at a fundraiser in Washington, D.C. wearing a fabulous black watch tartan dinner jacket; I asked him where he got it and he told me he bought it 40 years ago at the flagship Brooks Brothers store on Madison Avenue. So I went looking for that fabric and had a similar one made up for me by Zegna. I wore it to a red carpet assignment and got lots of compliments!

Charles Schultz: Rosa because it was just such an honor to meet this incredibly brave woman whose courage changed the course of history, for not just African Americans but for all Americans. And Charles Schultz because I too am an avid cartoonist and comic book fan; I’ve always been in awe of his talents.

(I still sketch a bit but I’m not really pursuing it these days.)

Who I’d most like to interview?

Probably Obama. I’d ask him about his views on climate change.

Do you have a good luck tie?

Other passions?

Not really. But I’ve been wearing a lot of Brioni ties lately: I like the heft.

Also Zegna and Drake’s…

I love cooking and reading. My most recent culinary accomplishment was grilled Chilean sea bass with roasted Brussels spouts and quinoa. My most recent great read was Thomas Jefferson: The Art of Power by Jon Meacham.

What about the slimmer-fit clothing they’re showing these days: are you wearing it?

Not so much. For me, it will take some getting used to. Once you’ve been overweight, you don’t want to be reminded of when everything was too tight…

What are you most proud of?

Speaking of which, tell us about your new book.

It came out in January; it’s called Never Goin’ Back: Winning the Weight-loss Battle for Good. It’s simply the story of my personal journey with weight loss. I think there’s a lot of good stuff that might help people along their own journeys, but it’s definitely not a “how-to” book…

Hanging in there: I’ve been working for the same company (NBC) for 30-plus years. And of course my three children: my 26-year-old Courtney is a chef in New York City; Leila (14) is studying performing arts; my son Nicky (10) is a master in Tae Kwon Do. I would have thought you’d be most proud of your unique ability to connect with people...

I don’t know that it’s such a special talent: I simply treat people the way I’d want to be treated. It’s how my parents raised us, and it’s the lesson I’d most like to teach my children. And while we joke around a lot on the Today show, it’s especially important that we’re never laughing at somebody, only with them.

“If it’s someone you love who’s overweight, the best thing you can do is shut up.”

What advice would you give to someone wanting to lose weight who has not yet begun the journey?

I don’t believe in giving advice on weight loss since it’s got to come from within. For me, it literally took seeing my dad on his death bed and promising him I’d change my life… Everyone gets to BOOK: GREEN EGGS AND HAM that point eventually, but no amount of lecturing will do it.

MOVIE: RAIDERS OF THE LOST ARK Look at Governor Christie — he has FOOD: ANYTHING GRILLED young kids and a young wife and after all RESTAURANT: DANIEL, NYC these years he finally made the decision to DRINK: ICED TEA take control of his future… No one could NEWS ANCHOR: BRIAN WILLIAMS have persuaded him. So that’s the advice I’d ACTOR: DENZEL WASHINGTON give people: do it for yourself, not for anyone ATHLETE: MICHAEL JORDAN else. If it’s someone you love who’s overMUSICIAN: ELTON JOHN weight, the best thing you can do is shut up.

TEAM: THE NEW YORK YANKEES Because guess what: we know we’re fat! We VACATION SPOT: THE BAHAMAS don’t live in a world without mirrors…

ROKER’S RAVES

Who was your best interview ever and who would you like to interview next?

My two favorites so far were Rosa Parks and

CITY: NEW YORK CLOTHING DESIGNER: EMENEGILDO ZEGNA SAYING: “IT IS WHAT IT IS.” 37

Who is your personal hero?

Probably New York’s Cardinal Dolan. I was raised Catholic (my mom was a devout Catholic, I lean toward Catholic Lite) but with Dolan, it’s less about his religion and more about his humility, his humanity, how readily he can talk about his own failings (e.g. losing weight!). I’ve never officially interviewed him but we spent time together in Rome for the installation of the new Pope, and we’ve had dinner a number of times. He’s a straight shooter and a pretty tolerant fellow; I truly admire him.

profile A top Italian menswear brand arrives in the States, epitomizing the subtle sophistication of Milanese style.

By Karen Alberg Grossman

DISCREETLY DORIANI

s anyone who has been there will tell you, Milanese men have a style all their own. Without much fanfare or flash, they command attention in even the simplest clothing. It’s about the luxurious fabrics, the close-to-body fit, the attention to detail (and unexpected details). It’s a look that emanates elegance and class, that appears unstudied but is in fact extremely precise in its nonchalance.

Here, we speak with Doriani’s Gisberto Sassi about his third-generation clothing business (with stores in Italy’s most beautiful resorts from Portofino to Capri), and about what constitutes Milanese style.

How would you define Milanese style, and will American men relate to it?

Top U.S. retailers first came to our shop in Milan to discover that Milanese ‘edge,’ which I describe as a combination of top-quality production and unexpected design details.

Milanese style is understated. Men who buy expensive clothing understand the investment value and that quality always, always trumps quantity. Of course American men will relate to this, particularly the special pieces that become favorites in a man’s wardrobe.

How have you grown your business internationally?

Bottom line, we don’t sell clothes: we sell a culture, a history that spans over millennia. Once people experience Italy, especially Milano, in all its facets, they come to understand the aesthetics of so-called Milanese design. Our customers care about quality, luxury and history; they are not about impulse buying.

How will that translate in the States?

Ultimately I’d like to duplicate the formula we showcase in our Italian stores, where we sell, in small doses, everything (from suits to shoes) a man needs for his wardrobe. But this is a long-term goal. The U.S. market has always rewarded product innovators, so our focus for the next three to five years is to produce innovative items, especially cashmere knitwear.

How would you describe your management style?

I am a dreamer, but I dream in slow motion, with my feet always on the ground.

MEN WHO BUY EXPENSIVE CLOTHING UNDERSTAND THE INVESTMENT VALUE AND THAT QUALITY ALWAYS, ALWAYS TRUMPS QUANTITY. — GISBERTO SASSI, DORIANI

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REDEFINING URBAN STYLE

Marcus Wainwright and David Neville reveal the real story behind the Rag & Bone brand. By Jillian LaRochelle stablished in 2002, Rag & Bone has grown to encompass a full offering of men’s and women’s clothing, shoes and accessories. Wainwright and Neville blend their own British heritage with an edgy, modern sensibility inspired by downtown NYC. The result: effortless cool.

craftsmanship, quality and authenticity informed our philosophy.

You’re both British but your line is based in NYC. MW: There’s so much to be inspired by in this city; there is this infectious energy and attitude, the creative spirit, the art scene and the way people aren’t afraid to commit to a look.

What’s the story behind the name Rag & Bone?

How did you two meet?

DN: We attended the same boarding school in the UK. Marcus was the year ahead of me so we were friendly but didn’t know each other that well. We became good pals during Marcus’ gap year — he was working in a bar in Portugal and I headed over for a holiday. Then we both went to university in the north of England and hung out on a lot of weekends.

MW: Years later, I had enough of the rain in London and went to Mexico for a vacation. There I met a gorgeous girl called Glenna on the beach and followed her back to New York. She’s now my wife and mother of our three children.

What led you to start a fashion brand?

MW: Five months after I arrived in New York, I decided I wanted to design a pair of rigid men’s jeans. After a lot of trial and error, I found a factory in Kentucky where these really skilled people had been specializing in making workwear for decades. Being exposed to the importance of

DN: It was a play on our British heritage really, as rag & bone men are a part of English folklore. They wore trademark disheveled suiting and that appealed to us — that mix of tailoring and workwear.

Which one of you is responsible for which aspects of the business?

DN: We divide and conquer: Marcus focuses more on design and I take care of the commerce side of the business. We work very closely on brand building and share the same vision.

MW: We’re still very small but we’ve also expanded our design team. They’re the best.

You won the Swarovski Award for emerging talent in menswear and the CFDA Menswear Designers of the Year award not long after launching. What do you hope to accomplish in the brand’s second decade?

MW: We want to remain true to our brand’s core beliefs and continue our expansion globally, build upon categories (existing and otherwise), and most importantly, still enjoy what we’re doing.

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Rag & Bone Pacific jacket, Eccelston jacket, button down Oxford and Easier pant

profile

SMARTPANTS

stretch fabrics make them some of the most comfortable pants around.

Edoardo Fassino, whose family still privately owns and operates the company, serves as CEO and creative director. He manages a design team of nine, and is known to come into the office and start the day by saying, “I had a dream last night, and now I know what we need to do…”

The team remains on the forefront, continuing to improve and change.

What never changes is their dedication to “giving the pants big personality!” exclaims Maran. “In fact, all of our models have names so they are more interesting to talk about than ‘the gray pants’ or ‘the beige pants.’ Let’s face it: our target customers don’t need pants, so our challenge was to make the people want our pants.”

And the challenge seems to have been met: PT01 is now available in the best shops across the U.S. and in 36 other countries. In the five years following its rebranding, the company’s profits increased five-fold.

But it really sunk in for Maran at a trunk show earlier this year, where he recalls selling 15 pairs to one happy customer.

“That was very telling: here was a 56-year-old normal, healthy man. He tried a pair on, looked in the mir-

PT01 just might make the world’s most perfect pair.

By Jillian LaRochelle T, which stands simply for Pantaloni Torino, knows a thing or two about pants: its parent company, Cover 50, has been making them in Italy for more than 60 years.

They started out producing all kinds of bottoms under an array of brand names, but in 2007, it was finally time to streamline. The company decided to refocus their energies on one luxury line, for which they would use only the finest fabrics and develop the best fits. In short, they set out to make the perfect pant.

Though PT01 was a quick success in its home country of Italy, potential retail partners in the U.S. were initially skeptical. They told Mario Maran, general manager in charge of operations, marketing and strategic development, that another line of pants was the last thing they needed. But he was adamant: “This is not just another line of pants; these are the pants!”

He believed that American men were ready for something new. “It’s true that there were a lot of brands making pants,” he explains, “but most had a more traditional, larger-cut leg. It was time for a better silhouette: not tight, but a little more proportionate on the leg.” And luckily, specialty retailers like us agreed.

PT01 currently offers 15 models (Editor, High-Tech, LaRochelle, etc.) in 8 different fits (Regular, Slim, Skinny, etc.) which can be made in any of the brand’s 400 colors and fabrics (including denims, luxury cottons and Italian wools from Loro Piana). There’s a strong focus on functionality, quality construction, and of course, fit. Look for new fabrics and details each season, and try a pair on to see for yourself how PT01’s use of

ror and immediately asked how many pairs we had in his size. I told him we had 15, and he bought every last one. He said they made him feel years younger.

“And I knew then that we had achieved our goal.”

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FALL 2013

Made with pride in Canada

Maximize your investment in a classic cashmere suit with simple sartorial updates for any occasion.

1 SUIT. 7 WAYS. EXPLORE YOUR OPTIONS. Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson

1

SPORTY STYLE

REPLACE YOUR SUIT JACKET WITH A LEATHER MOTO STYLE TO REALLY ROCK YOUR WORKDAY.

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VINTAGE PREP

BRIGHTEN A GRAY OUTLOOK WITH A KNIT TIE & COLORFUL PLAID SPORTCOAT. LO0KING GOOD!

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CASUAL COOL

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CHECK YOURSELF

WORN WITH DARK DENIM, A STRIPED TRADITIONAL WITH A TWIST: THIS SPORT SHIRT & SNEAKERS GIVE YOUR SHIRT & TIE PAIRING BRINGS YOUR BASIC JACKET A LEISURLY LOOK. SUIT TO A MORE CREATIVE SPACE.

MODEL: LEANDRO SOUZA, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILORING: JASON SANTIAGO. RING: PROPOSITION LOVE. WATCHES: TAG HEUER, PANERAI, BREITLING

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LAYERED LUXE

WHEN THE TEMPERATURE COOLS, ADD LAYERS IN FALL’S WARMEST SHADES.

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PATTERN PLAY

DON’T FALL FLAT: GRAPHIC CHECKS PROVIDE A SUBTLE CONTRAST AGAINST SOLID TROUSERS.

LOG PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC

HOUSE

OFSTYLE

HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY

STYLING: WENDY MCNETT

MODELS: JONATHAN RILEY, MITCH FERRIN, CEDRIC @ FORD; LEANDRO SOUZA @ Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO.

Don’t be afraid to mix textures, colors and patterns.

A pocket square adds pop.

Outerwear classics get a modern update with new treatments and details.

THE FALL GUY Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson

The lined lightweight material takes you through changing seasons.

Casual Luxury WITH FITTED SILHOUETTES AND LUXE DETAILS, THESE PIECES PULL DOUBLE DUTY FOR WORK AND WEEKEND.

Distressed fabrics look great with jeans.

Wide lapels define shoulders.

Donegal fabric is dressy but cool.

Double-Breasted

GO DRESSY OR CASUAL WITH THESE SIMPLE TIPS.

A nippedin waist keeps the look sleek.

MODELS: JONATHAN RILEY, MITCH FERRIN, CEDRIC @ FORD; LEANDRO SOUZA @ Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO.

Keep the length short for a modern take on casual.

Vests

PERFECT WITH YOUR FAVORITE SWEATER AND CHINOS, THEY PAIR JUST AS WELL WITH A SPORTCOAT AND TIE.

fitness

HIT THE MAT

Think yoga has nothing to offer men? Think again.

By Elise Diamantini here’s a reason athletes like David Beckham, Kobe Bryant, Kareem Abdul-Jabbar and Andy Murray moonlight as Bikram yogis. Murray, a pro-tennis player who’s currently ranked third in the world and is the reigning Olympic Singles Champion, credits Bikram Yoga for increasing his mental and physical endurance during matches. And Abdul-Jabbar has said that if it weren’t for Bikram Yoga, he could never have played NBA basketball for as long as he did with so few injuries.

A consistent yoga practice has been known to increase strength, stamina, flexibility and mental focus, while decreasing stress. Yoga helps prevent and alleviate sports-related injuries by strengthening the muscles around major joints. It creates more flexibility, so it’s a perfect way to improve your golf or tennis swing. And on the superficial side: consistent practice will help you look great in that new modern-fit suit!

Bikram Yoga is a 90-minute practice performed in a heated

Consistent practice will help to increase strength, stamina and mental focus.

room (105 degrees Fahrenheit with 40 percent humidity). Created

by Bikram Choudhury, it consists of a sequence of 26 postures and two breathing exercises. “It’s a common misconception that yoga is about sitting cross-legged and chanting,” says instructor Eoin Thomas Sharkey. “Bikram is an intense, physically challenging workout.”

“Men generally think that yoga is somehow subsidiary to other, more macho forms of exercise,” says instructor Chris Totaro. “We see it all the time: the girlfriend brings the guy for his first class.

He enters the room presumptuous and overconfident, but it’s not long before he’s gawking at the display of strength surrounding him.”

Yoga is not just for flex-y, skinny people either; it’s actually more beneficial for those less flexible. The most common excuse is “I’m not flexible enough to do yoga. I can’t even touch my toes,” shares Corinne Idzal, a yoga teacher in New York City. “That’s like saying, ‘I’m too sick to go to the doctor.’ It will only get worse

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if you don’t do something about it.” Idzal says that in general, men are tighter than women because of the anatomical and physiological differences in their bodies. “Not to mention that ‘typical’ male sports tend to create tightness because of high-impact and repetitive movements.”

Bikram yogi Anthony Rebholz says a lot of athletes, especially boxers, come into the studio because they need to find more flexibility for their sport. “Working out at the gym is all about contraction and resistance; yoga is about expansion and extending — opening up rather than closing down. Men work a lot of the primary muscle groups at the gym, but yoga works the secondary and tertiary groups. Yoga also makes you become more aware of how you move your body during other forms of exercise.”

Totaro, who says he has been more or less injury free for the past decade, also points out that “strength and flexibility have a reciprocal relationship. The more muscle mass built around a joint, the more the joint’s mobility is decreased. In other words, as weight lifters continue to add bulk, their joint flexibility continually decreases. The comprehensive stretching exercises in a yoga class allow for a more balanced relationship between strength and flexibility.”

Yoga has also been known to help people heal their injuries, avoid surgery and wean themselves off medicine. A telling example from yogi Nick Graham: “A few years ago I was experiencing neurological problems: blackouts, migranes, extreme nausea. I was admitted to the hospital and for a week I was drugged, hooked up to machines and miserable. Soon after, I passed a Bikram studio and stopped in for my first class. After the best night of sleep in my life, I went back the next day, and the next.

GETTING STARTED

Tips for beginners from Bikram Yoga instructor Corinne Idzal • Talk to your teacher before class and let him or her know you’re a beginner. They can ease your mind and give you modifications during class if you need them.

• Go to class hydrated and on an empty stomach.

• Take electrolytes before practicing yoga to help with stamina and muscle cramping. Natural sources like coconut water or green juice are best.

• It’s not a competition. No one cares if you’re stiff or can’t hold a posture. Even that dancer with her feet behind her head is too focused on her own struggle to be judging you.

• Go often, especially at first. You’re never the best at something the first time you try it, but the more you practice the better you’ll become.

Finally I stopped taking my meds. All the while I was being tested for myriad things, but I just practiced Bikram as often as I could, and eventually my symptoms disappeared.”

Yoga’s therapeutic effects are not limited to the physical. Those who practice report that it helps them focus, set goals and explore their potential. Plus, yoga helps keep your emotions in check.

“You won’t act on impulse,” explains instructor Jakob Schanzer.

“This was a gradual change for me, but I noticed that I was reacting to things more calmly.”

If you’re still not convinced, Idzal can offer a few more arguments: “Yoga is badass! You will sleep better, work better, relax better, make love better...

“Beginners are shocked by the life-transforming power yoga can have. Physical change is just the beginning.”

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world scene OPULENT ADVENTURES

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ail off on luxurious explorations of two of the world’s most exotic locations: the Amazon River in Peru and Vietnam’s Mekong River. Aqua Expeditions offers three, four, or seven-day cruises on these two intriguing rivers, providing the opportunity for a variety of fascinating experiences, from visiting historic sites to piranha fishing. And they do it in great style. For the Amazon cruises, Aqua Expeditions provides either the 130-footlong M/V Aqua, or the 147-foot M/V Aria. Both custom-built ships have air-conditioned suites featuring sitting areas and picture windows with panoramic views. The M/V Aqua can accommodate 24 guests in 12 suites while the Aria has 16 suites with room for 32 guests, plus additional amenities such as an exercise room and an outdoor hot tub. Launching in 2014, the M/V Aqua Mekong is an extraordinary architect-designed ship with a spa, screening room, outdoor pool and 20 guest suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, all offering magnificent views of Vietnam and Cambodia.

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

KEEP ON DANCING

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IMAGE BY PAUL B. GOODE. FEATURED DANCERS LAURA HALZACK AND MICHAEL TRUSNOVEC

ince 1954, the innovative and sometimes controversial modern dance choreographer Paul Taylor has created 138 dances exploring a range of topics: life and death, love and sexuality, iconic moments in American history.

These are set to music as diverse as medieval masses, baroque concertos, classical symphonies, Tin Pan Alley, and The Mamas and The Papas. Every season for the past 60 years the Paul Taylor Dance Company has toured the world, performing in over 500 cities in 62 countries. What better way to celebrate the diamond jubilee of this legendary company than by taking to the road again? In 2014, Paul Taylor will be presenting modern dance across America, from New York to San Francisco.

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OMMMMM

A

s the year winds down, take a few days and disappear to Ananda in the Himalayas, a restored viceroy’s palace with a destination spa that focuses on India’s ancient arts of yoga, meditation and ayurveda. The new you is orchestrated by a team of qualified nutritionists, western and ayurvedic physicians, and spa therapists who create programs to meet individual goals. Concentrate on de-stressing, detox and cleansing, relaxation, anti-aging or weight and inch loss, all in a 24,000 square-foot facility with 24 treatment rooms, hydrotherapy facilities, a Beauty Institute, outdoor heated swimming pool, sauna, steam rooms and a fully equipped fitness center.

Fortunately, your stay doesn’t have to be all exercise and dieting. Between treatments, you can play golf, go white river rafting, or enjoy an elephant photo safari.

GRAND ITALIAN GROUNDS

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ldo Filicori and Luigi Zecchini founded Filicori Zecchini coffee in Bologna in 1919. After nearly a century, the company is still guided by the founders’ families and remains loyal to a philosophy that merges artisan passion and technological innovation. Together, the careful selection of the highest quality green coffee and the specific roasting process produce the particular aroma and flavor that makes Filicori Zecchini so impressive. So much so that many of the company’s coffees have earned the Italian Espresso National Institute’s certification, a designation reserved for only the best blends. Available in over 30 countries around the world, Filicori Zecchini coffee has just recently reached American shores. Buongiorno tutti!

LET IT BEE

T

here was a lot of buzz when bees recently checked into the InterContinental Hotels in Boston and New York. Yes, that’s right, bees. In keeping with the environmentally responsible trend among luxury hotels, the InterContinental’s green initiatives include the use of energy-efficient lighting, water conservation and recycling programs throughout the properties. On the roofs of these hotels, along with an herb garden, there will also be apiaries, attended by a traveling apiculturist (one who raises bees for honey). The hives are expected to produce 20 to 30 pounds of honey per year, which the hotels plan to bottle for gifts and amenities, use in cocktails and on special Honey Menus.

Comb through the chef’s latest creations, including honeylacquered duck leg confit and honey almond madelines.

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art The American painter of showgirls gets a long overdue reappraisal. By David Howlett stunning new show at the DC Moore Gallery last winter paid tribute to Walt Kuhn for both his artistry and his humanity. This new showing of his pieces was long overdue, as the last was almost 50 years ago.

Kuhn’s work is fascinating, as was his life. He studied art in Europe and was exposed to both French and German modernism. After returning to America, he began developing his own painting style while also giving advice on art purchases to wealthy collectors. In 1913, Kuhn was an organizer and the “dynamic force” behind the revolutionary Armory Show in New York. This show included American modernist painters and was most Americans’ first exposure to artists such as Picasso and Matisse. Still considered the most important art exhibit in American history, it secured Kuhn a place in art history books had he never even picked up a paintbrush.

Walt Kuhn was born in Brooklyn in 1879, and was taken to live theater performances by his mother at an early age. This began a lifelong fascination, and eventually Kuhn performed in revues himself, doing pantomime and “satiric ballet.” He combined his skill as a painter with his love for show business, becoming America’s great portrayer of the circus and vaudeville stage.

Kuhn sometimes designed the costumes for his models; in such cases, his wife Vera would serve as the seamstress. He also learned to tap dance, and would sometimes dance while painting

to help his models pass the time as they posed.

Following a serious illness in 1925, Kuhn resolved to devote his full energies to painting. What followed were his great portraits of performers from the stage and circus ring. The works are set against plain backgrounds and have the flattened colors and sharp planes of some of his European precursors. But Kuhn’s subjects were entirely American. A sign on his studio door spelled out his approach: “Art must be international in appeal but national in character.” Kuhn’s characters are American working people, even though their professions required them to dress flamboyantly.

Kuhn uncovers a certain nobility in them, just as Andrew Wyeth did later with the rural residents of Pennsylvania and Maine.

Kuhn befriended the performers he met and would often invite them to his studio for spaghetti dinners. Not only did they fascinate him, but he also made them feel that he was a performer himself. In a rare self-portrait, Kuhn dressed as a clown with white-face makeup. Perhaps he recognized that he was an entertainer himself, as most of us are in one way or another.

Just about every major American art museum has paintings by Walt Kuhn on view, but visitors may have been passing them by.

This exhibition (not far from the site of the 1913 Armory Show) helped to reintroduce Kuhn as an artist who was both modern and fully American, and who brought great dignity to even his most enigmatic subjects.

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SHOW GIRL IN ARMOR, 1943 AND PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST AS A CLOWN, 1932 COURTESY DC MOORE GALLERY

REEXAMINING WALT KUHN

Kuhn brought great dignity to even his most enigmatic subjects.

“Only that day dawns to which we are awake.”

H EN RY DAVI D TH OREAU

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